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37 , Houlcvard ties €apucincs« 37 , 

PARIS. 


PLAIN AND FIGURED SILKS. 

INDIA AND FRENCH CACIIEMIRES 

BLACK AND WHITE LACE. 

MANTLES, VISITES, SORTIES DE BAL. 

DRESSES AND COURT DRESSES. 

Wedding Outfits 

FANCY GOODS AND GRANDES NOUVEAUTES. 

The successive enlargements of the establishment of la 
Compagnie Lyonnaise have rendered it one of the most 
extensive in Europe ; the warerooms at the present day 
comprise upwards of thirty saloons or galleries, having four 
separate entrances. Being their own manufacturers, their 
productions are not liable to the extra charges made on 
account of intermediate agents, and thus this company can 
afford to offer to the public on terms far more advantageous 
than any other house. Every article, even the Cachemires, is 
marked in plain figures. 

La Compagnie Lyonnaise have established houses at Lyons 
Cashmere, Alencon and Chantilly, for the manufacture of Silk 
stuffs, Cachemires, and Lace, but they have on succursale for 
sale in any country whatever. 
































THERMAL ESTABLISHMENT. 

CENTRAL OFFICES 

BOULEVARD MONTMARTRE, PARIS, 

WHERE ALL INFORMATION MAY BE OBTAINED. 



The Thermal Establishment is open for patients 
throughout the year, but the fashionable season lasts 
from the 15th May to the 1st OCTOBER, during which 
period the EMPEROR usually visits Vichy. BALLS, 
Concerts, Operatic and Theatrical performances 
then take place daily in the elegant Casino. 


For persons unable to visit Vichy the treatment may 
be also carried on at home by means of the Bottled 
Waters and Baths composed of Salts extracted from the 
Springs ; to be had as follows :— 

Paris : Central Offices, as above. 

London: 27, Margaret street, Cavendish square. 
Liverpool: Smith and Co., 11, Lord-street. 

Manchester : Smith and Co., 27, Market-street. 

Dublin: Thwaites and Co., 37, Upper Sackville-street. 
New York : Fougera, 30, North William-street. 
Chicago: Muller, 130, Wells-street. 

Gibraltar : Roberts.—E. Bonnet. 

Calcutta: New Medical Hall. 

And of all respectable druggists. 


A Branch of the LYONS RAILWAY runs direct to 
Vichy ; Visitors will find accommodation in eighty 
Public and one hundred and fifty Private Hotels. 



















PERMANENT EXHIBITION. 

43, BOULEVARD UES CAPUC1NES, 43. 

MAXSON ALPH. GIROUX, 

SUCCESSORS 

DIVmACiE AND aSARIVKOUCK. 

Patronized by their Majesties the Emperor and Empress , 
and by several Foreign Courts. 


ARTS. 

FANCY ARTICLES. 
CURIOSITIES. 
BRONZES. 


FINE STATIONERY. 
FRAMES. 
MEDALLIONS. 
COLOURS. 


DRESSING CASES. 
CABINET WORK. 
FURNITURE. 
LEATHER ARTICLES. 


SALE AND HIRE OF PAINTINGS, WATER COLOURS AND 
DRAWINGS BY THE BEST MODERN MASTERS. 


Speciality for Articles for New Year's Gifts, Wedding, Fete, 


and Christening Presents. 


Rich Corbeilles, Livres d’heures, Fans, Purses, Keepsakes, 
Smelling Bottles, Card Cases, etc. 

CHILDREN'S TOYS. 


18 and 20, rue vivienne, paris. 

REQU1LLART, ROUSSEL and CHOCQUEEL, 

CARPETS AND TAPESTRY 

% 

Stuffs for Hangings and Furniture. 

Manufactories at Tourcoing ( Nord ) and Aubusson (Crease). 

This is one of the most important houses in Paris and is dis¬ 
tinguished for the richness of its productions, their great 
variety, and the moderation of their prices. 

Extract from “ The Reports of the Juries ” of the Universal 
London Exhibition in 1851 : 

“ One of the features of the exhibition is the progress made in 
the manufacture of Moquette and velvet-pile carpets. 

“ The Specimens exhibited by Messrs. Requillart, Roussel and 
Chocqueel, of Paris and Tourcoing (Nord) are pre-eminent for 
their artistic designs and beauty of colouring.” 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 








ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


WITH CONVEYANCES TO THEM. 


PLACES. 

Arcueil. . . 

Page. 

495 

Argenteuil. . 

495 

Arnouville. . 

496 

Auteuil. . . 

189 

Beauvais . . 

496 

Belleville. . 

452 

Bellevue . . 

496 

Buc. . . . 

498 

Chantilly . . 

498 

Charenton. . 

500 

Chartres . . 

500 

Chatenay . . 

502 

Choisy-le-Roi 

502 

Compiegne. . 

502 

Corbeil. . . 

507 

Enghien . . 

508 

Ermenonville 

508 

Fontainbleau. 

508 

Grenelle . . 

448 

Maison Laffite 

519 

Maisons Alfort 

495 

Marly . . . 

520 

Meudon . . 

520 

Montmorency 

522 

Mortefontaine 

522 

Nanterre . . 

522 

Neuilly. . . 

523 

Passy . . . 

489 

Poissy. . . 

524 

Pr6 S. Gervais 

524 

Rainey. . . 

524 

Rambouillet. 

525 

Romainville . 

529 

Rueil . . . 

529 

St. Cloud . . 

529 

St. Cyr. . . 

536 

St. Denis . . 

536 

St. Germain . 

543 

St. Leu. . . 

547 

St. Maur . . 

524 

St. Ouen . . 

547 

Sceaux. . . 

547 

Sevres. . . 

548 

Versailles. . 

552 

Vesinet . . 

1 546 

Vincennes. . 

1 580 


CONVEYANCES. 

Rue Christine, No. 4 .—Sceaux. Railroad. 
Railroad, r. St. Lazare, 124. 

Rue d’Enghien, 2. 

Rue Bailleul, 10.—Railroad, r. St. Lazare. 
Northern Railroad. 

Rue Catinat—Omnibus. 

Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 

Versailles Railroad, left bank. 

Northern Railroad. 

Corner Place du Palais Royal. Lyons Railway. 
Railroad, Boulevard Mont-Parnasse. 
i 6 , Passage Dauphine. 

Railroad, Boul. de l’Hopital.—rue du Bouloi, 
Northern Railroad. [24. 

Lyons Railroad. 

Northern Railroad. 

Northern Railroad. 

Lyons Railroad. 

Place du Palais Royal, Omnibus. 

Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 

Lyons Railroad. 

Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 

Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 

Northern Railroad. 

Northern Railroad. 

Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 

Rue du Louvre, Omnibus. 

Place du Palais Royal.—Place de la Con- 
Railroad, rue St. Lazare, 124. [corde. 

Rue Catinat, Omnibus. 

Strasburg Railroad, Bondy Station. 

Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 

Rue Catinat, Omnibus. 

Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 

Rue Bailleul, 10.—Rail, rue St. Lazare, 124 . 
Railroad, Boul. Mont-Parnasse. 

Rue d’Enghien, 2.—Northern Railroad. 
Railroad, rue St. Lazare. 

Northern Railroad. [tiers. 

Place de la Bastille—Square des Arts et M6- 
Rue St. Honors, 155, Omnibus. [d’Enfer. 
Passage Dauphine, 16.—Railroad, Barri^re 
Railroad, rue S. Lazare—Railroad, left bank. 
Railroad, rueS. Lazare—Railroad, left bank. 
Railroad, rue S. Lazare. 

PI. de lu Bastille—Square des Arts et Metiers 





Economy of Time and Money. 



9 


GALIGNANI’S MESSENGER. 

Published in Paris, Rue de Rivoli, No. 224. 


Two Editions of this universally known journal are pub¬ 
lished every day, one at six in the morning for Paris and its 
Environs; the other at four in the afternoon in time for Post, 
and containing all the news received d©wn to the latest mo¬ 
ment of going to press, thus anticipating the morning papers 
by 24 hours. 

Galic.nani’s Messenger offers an immense advantage of 
economy both in Time and Money— Time, as in a single jour¬ 
nal it reproduces the Leaders and Intelligence given by the 
London daily and weekly newspapers, with their various 
shades of opinion, thus replacing and bringing before the 
reader at one view the contents of all—and Money, as the 
subscription is less than to any of the daily London Papers. 
—The principle of Galignani’s Messenger, to the scrupulous 
observance of which it owes much of its reputation, is inflex¬ 
ible impartiality.—One department of this journal is devoted 
to intelligence from England, the other to occurrences in France 
and all news reaching Paris earlier than London.—The former 
contains, besides the opinions of the London journals, full 
Reports of the Parliamentary Debates, and Law Courts, 
Commercial, Naval, Military, University, and Clerical Intelli¬ 
gence, Stocks, Bankrupts, Births, Marriages and Deaths, 
Fashionable News, Theatricals, etc., etc.—The latter Depart¬ 
ment comprises the earliest information from France, Italy, 
Spain, Germany, Russia, and every other part of the Con¬ 
tinent ; Analyses of the opinions of the Paris Political Press ; 
the Proceedings of the Legislative Bodies ; Political, Judicial, 
Theatrical, and Fashionable Occurrences, etc. 

Terms of Subscription.—A single Journal, 10 sous; a 
week, 3 fr.; a fortnight, Gfr., one month, 10 fr.; three months, 
28 fr. To receive it free of postage throughout France and Fo¬ 
reign Countries, see tariff. —ADVERTISEMENTS RECEIVED. 











/vu * / aMI^Uju^a 


«aaniaaaa*3 

NEW PARIS SLSDE, 


For 


REVISED AND VERIFIED BY PERSONAL INSPECTION, 


AND 


ARRANGED ON AN ENTIRELY NEW PLAN, 


COITTSITTS. 

Preface.— ( Important to the Stranger.) 

Part I. — General Information, Advice to Travellers, Comparative 
Tables of French and English Weights and Measures, Money, Ther- 
momelrical Scales, etc.; Tables of French and English Duties ; 
Physical and Social Statistics; Laws affecting Foreigners; Histori¬ 
cal Notice of Paris; its new Division , Government and Public 
Institutions. 

Part II. —Description of Paris by Walks ; Edifices, Curiosities , etc. 

Part III. — Places of Public Amusement. 

Part IV. —Environs of Paris. 

Part V. — Paris Directory; Addresses of Ambassadors, etc., List if 
Bankers, Tradesmen, etc.; List of Streets; Index. 


(£nterei> at Stationers’ jGjall. 

The right of republication (or translation) is reserved by the Proprietors. 


r • 




% 

A 


A. AND W. GALIGNANI AND C°. 




















Ua 

^. v<^r 









* 

« v 

<• < 

/VC 

4 » 



PARIS: 

Printed J>y E. Bridre, 257 , Rue St. Honors 





/ 


c/Q * 


} 




Paris has undergone so many and such important altera¬ 
tions, as to astonish even the resident, in his comparison of 
what the capital was at a very recent period with what it is 
at the present moment. In order to keep pace with such ra¬ 
pid improvements, it has been the practice of the Publishers 
of this Paris Guide annually to effect a careful verification 
of the whole, and thus present to the public a correct descrip¬ 
tion of all the institutions, public monuments, and improve¬ 
ments both of the metropolis and of its vicinity. 

Since I860, when the communes lying within the fortifica¬ 
tions were annexed to the capital, this revision has become 
more necessary than it was before. The large thoroughfares, 
pierced through the most crowded quarters of the old city, 
have become a new and prominent feature and must hence¬ 
forth he chosen as the starting-points of our different walks, 
or at least be introduced so as to lead to some monument 
worthy of attention; on the other hand, the walks them¬ 
selves must he so arranged as not to become a source of 
fatigue instead of enjoyment. To meet these different re¬ 
quirements, the map of Paris has been carefully studied, 
the city itself walked through in every direction, many a 
circuitous route, formerly dictated by the administra¬ 
tive division of Paris, exchanged for a shorter and more 
direct one, the newly annexed communes described in 
two additional walks, and a quantity of obsolete matter 
expunged, in order to make room for the description of the 
new improvements without increasing the hook to an incon¬ 
venient size. In so doing, however, the editors have not lost 
sight of the interests of the antiquarian; whatever remains of 
old Paris worthy of note has been sedulously preserved, and 
every spot of historical interest pointed out, and often illus¬ 
trated with curious anecdotes. 

This rapid sketch of the labour which has been expended 





PREFACE. 


• • 

11 

upon the present work will suftice to show that it aims at a 
higher distinction than its hum Me title, in the common accept¬ 
ance of the term, denotes, and that it is in reality a condensed 
repertory of the history, statistics, and art of the capital of 
France, far superior, therefore, to all the other French and 
English Guides in existence, which are quite unworthy 
of the matter they treat of. In the present hook there 
will be found collected an immense quantity of valuable and 
interesting information, books of the first authority having 
been consulted on the history and antiquities of Paris; while 
personal observation has supplied with great accuracy the ac¬ 
count of all that now meets the eye in the metropolis. In the 
collection of this information, and in the annual correction 
of the work, neither time nor expense has been spared, and, by 
availing themselves of the valuable services of Mr. Outhwaite, 
the engraver, the publishers have been enabled to embellish 
the work with accurate and well-designed plates. 

The plan adopted in this volume is calculated to save the 
visitor much useless expenditure of time and exertion. What¬ 
ever relates to the institutions and general statistics of Taris 
has been put into the First Part, entitled General Information; 
while every other object of interest is described in twenty 
walks, which, while equal in number to tli earronchsscmcnfs 
or municipal sections of Paris, are nevertheless arranged ir¬ 
respectively of those divisions, which would be inconvenient 
for the purpose of visiting the capital. The stranger, after study¬ 
ing his map of Paris with care, is supposed to go through 
these walks, inspecting their contents in the order in 
which they are arranged in this work, or omitting some, 
according to his taste and inclination. By so doing he 
will see every thing in a comparatively short space of time, 
and will pass over nothing that is really worthy of being ex¬ 
amined by the tourist. By a reference to the Index, where 
everything is carefully classified, the reader may see, at one 
glance, the whole of any particular class of things of which 
he may be in search. 

The Publishers trust that the conscientious care which has 
guided them in the publication of this volume will obtain the 
approbation of the visitor. Any correction which may suggest 
itself to the reader will be gladly received. 

Paris is one of the great centres not only of French but of 
continental intellect; from its prolific press the most valuable 
publications are constantly issuing; it takes the lead in scien¬ 
tific research and discovery, and has every claim to be con¬ 
sidered a magnificent and wonderful city. Its superb and 


PREFACE. iii 

beautiful collections of ancient and modern art are, with an ad¬ 
mirable spirit of generous liberality, thrown gratuitously open 
not only to natives, but particularly and at all seasons to fo¬ 
reigners. In every branch of knowledge lectures are delivered 
gratis by the most eminent professors, and the traveller who 
has paid the least attention to the fine arts becomes, on arriv¬ 
ing in Paris, in some measure identified with them; even the 
public amusements of the capital tend to the improvement Of 
the mind, and the advancement of civilization. 

The metropolis is naturally salubrious, and the purity of its 
atmosphere may be at once ascertained by viewing it from an 
elevated situation. How unlike the view from the top of St. 
Paul’s in London, with its canopy of fogs and clouds, and its 
sickly sunbeams! There, every building is blackened with 
smoke, and the eye looks down upon darkening vapours and 
mists; but if Paris be seen from the towers of Notre Dame, the 
Pantheon, the Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile, the heights of 
Montmartre, or the cemetery of Pere La Chaise, the panorama 
is complete; there is no indistinctness or confusion in the pro¬ 
spect ; every palace, church, and public edifice stands distinctly 
before the eye, and, interspersed with the foliage of the gardens 
and the boulevards, the whole forms a prospect at once grand 
and beautiful. It need hardly be added that this lively me¬ 
tropolis is the most attractive emporium of pleasure and litera¬ 
ture in the world, and, at the same time, the cheapest for the 
advantages it presents—circumstances which render it the ge¬ 
neral rendezvous for all the nations of the globe. 

In order fully to appreciate the treasures of art and industry 
for which this capital is so renowned, a residence of several 
months will hardly suffice. But, as many persons visit Paris 
for only a few days, and are therefore only able to take a 
bird’s-eye view of the remarkable sights it contains, the fol¬ 
lowing list of important places, arranged by days on which 
they can be visited, and with reference to the page of the 
Guide at which they are described, cannot fail to be acceptable. 


DIARY OF PLACES THAT OUGHT TO BE SEEN BY A STRANGER. 

SUNDAY.—The Louvre and all its Museums, from 10 to 4 
(p. 158).—Palace of the Tuileries, (p. 1 44 ; ticket).—Triumphal 
Arch of the Carrousel (p.is 4 ).—Column of the Place Vendome 
(p. 177 ; fee.)—Obelisk of Luxor (p. 180).—Champs Elys^es 
(p. 182).—Palace of Elysee-Napoltion, (p. i 9 G).—Triumphal Arch 
de l’Etoile (p. i 91 ; fee).—Chapel of St. Ferdinand, from 10 to 5 
p. 193 ; fee).—Chapelle Expiatoire (p. 202 j fee).—Church of 
the Madeleine (p. 199 ). 



IV PREFACE. 

MONDAY.—Hotel des Invalides, (fee), and Tomb of Napo¬ 
leon from 12 to 3 (p. 339).—Church of St. Sulpice (p. 370 ) 
—Church of St. Germain des Pr£s (p. 355).—Ecole des Beaux 
Aids (p. 365 ; fee).—Palais de Justice and Sainte Chapelle, from 
10 to 4 (p.298, 304; ticket).—Cathedral of Notre Dame (p.3oo; fee). 

TUESDAY.—Artesian Well of Grenelle (p. 334).—Palace of the 
Legislative Body (p. 324. fee).—Palais du Quai d’Orsay, from 9 
to 11 (p 321 , fee).—The Mint, Museum, 12 to 3 (public), coining, 
12 to 3 (p. 339 , ticket).—Church of Notre Damedc Lorette (p. 21 6). 

WEDNESDAY.—Palace of the Luxembourg, picture-gallery, 
from io to 4 (p. 374). — Hotel de Cluny, from 11 to 4 (p. 385).— 
Pantheon (p.40o,fee).—Church of St. Etienne du Mont (p. 405 ). 

THURSDAY.—Manufacture des Tabacs, from 10 to 4 , (p. 
330 ; card).—Musee d’Arlillerie, from 12 to 4 (p. 352).—Hotel 
de Ville, from 42 to 4 (p. 284 ; ticket).—Imprimerie Imperiale, 
at 2 , with ticket (p.269).—Conservatoire des Arts etMetiers, from 
10 to 4 (p.256).—Northern Railway Terminus (p. 235 ).-Church 
of St. Vincent de Paule (p. 234 ). 

FRIDAY. —Louvre (p. 1 58.) — Garden of Palais Royal (p. 208 .) 
—Bibliotheque Imperiale, from 10 to 4 (p. 224).—Exchange (p. 
219 ).—Abattoir de La Villette (p. 450, fee). 

SATURDAY.—Garden of Plants; Museums open from 11 to 2 
(p. 427).—Gohelins Manufactory, from 2 to 4 (p. 4n ; ticket).— 
Place du Trone (p. 278).—Column of July p. 282 ; fee).—Ceme¬ 
tery of Pere Laehaise (p. 453). 

EXCURSIONS.—Fontainebleau, one day (p. 508 ; fee).—Ilam- 
bouillet, one day (p. 525 ; ticket).—Sevres Manufactory (ticket), 
and St. Cloud, one day (pp. 548 and 529 ; fees).—Abbey of St. 
■Denis, one day (p. 536 ; fee).—Versailles, daily, Mondays ex¬ 
cepted; see preface, p. viii. and p. 552.—Vincennes, Saturdays 
(p. 580 ; ticket). Bois de Boulogne, afternoon (p. 4 8g) ; 
Viaduct and bridge of the Chemin de fer de Ceinture at 
Auteuil (p. 189 .)—Parc de Chaumont (see p. 451 ) —Park of Mon- 
ceaux (see p. 20 3). See also preface, page ix. 

The stranger will do well, immediately 011 his arrival, to 
write for permission to see the following places : viz., the 
Hotel de Ville, to M. le Prefet de la Seine, Hotel de Ville.— 
The Palaces of the Tuileries, St. Cloud, and Petit Trianon, to 
M. le General Ilolin, Adjudant-gcneral da Palais des Tuile 
ries ; the Palace of Rambouillet and the Sainte Chapelle, to 
M. le Ministre de la Maison di I’Empereur. —The Musee de 
Sevres, specially mentioning also the workshops or les 
ateliers, (see p. 548), the exhibition-rooms being open daily 
without tickets (Sundays and holidays excepted), to M. VAd- 
ministrateur de la Manufacture de Sevres —The Mint, to 
see the coining, (the Museum, 5tc., being public on certain 
days, see p. to M. le President de la Commission des 
Monnaia el Medailles , lintel des Monnaie s.—The Observa¬ 
tory (visible >nce a month), to M. le Direct ear de VObs°rva • 







V 


PREFACE. 


O' 


u 

Q 


toire. — Vincennes, mentioning the Armoury, to M. le Mi- 
nistre de la Guerre. —These letters must he sent franked by 
post: the tickets will be received in two or three days. The 
following is the usual form of the letter to be written :■— 


Monsieur ( giving his title, &c.), 

J’ai l’lionneur de vous prier (if to a Minister, de prior voire 
Excellence.) de vouloir bicn me faire adresser un billet pour 
(name number of persons), afin de visiter (insert name of places). 
i N’ayant que peu de jours a rester a Paris, il me serait trt>s- 
agreable de lc posseder aussitot que possible. 

Yeuillez recevoir, avec mes remerciments, l’assurance de la 
haute consideration avec laquelle j’ai l’honneur d’etre, Monsieur, 

Yotre tr£s humble serviteur, 

(Sign name with address, very clearly written. 

Should the stranger, as is sometimes the case in consequence 
of the negligence of some inferior functionary, not receive a 
speedy reply to his letter, he will do well to call for it in per* 
son at the proper office. leave is rarely granted to a isit tl e 
prisons, but hospitals and other charitable institutions are 
thrown open, not only for the inspection of professional men, 
but also for the relief of the necessitous stranger, with a libe¬ 
rality that cannot be too highly commended. 


The visitor is strongly recommended, as a general reference, 
to consult the article headed Stranger’s Diary, in the daily 
English newspaper, Galignani’s Messenger, which is taken in 
at all the principal cafes, restaurants, &c.. or may be sub¬ 
scribed for by the day, week, fortnight, or month, and where 
whatever is to be seen on the day of publication is always 
mentioned, with all necessary information concerning it. 


The stranger in Paris is also advised to attend high mass at 
the cathedral of Notre Dame, or at the churches of St. Foch, 
St. Eustache, or Notre Dame de Loretle at to any Sunday 
morning, if he would witness an imposing spectacle, and be 
gratified with excellent music. 


In consequence of the frequent errors which occur in the de¬ 
livery of journals casually sent from Paris to England, it should 
be known that Newspapers must be surrounded by a band of 
paper on which the address is written, and prepaid at the 
principal post offices, at the rate of 8 centimes for each 4 0 
grammes weight. If thrown in without being franked, they 
would be charged like letters according to weight. 


The stranger, on arriving in Paris, is often at a loss to 
choose among the good things presented to his taste by the 
varies of the restaurants, some of which contain three to four 







Vi PREFACE. 

hundred dishes. The following list of some of the best, will 
no doubt be well received by the gastronomic traveller :— 

SOUPS (Potage). 

A la bisque.—A la julienne. —Au macaroni.—Au riz.—A la 
pur6e.—Pur6e aux croutons. 

MEATS (ViAnde). 

Beefsteak au beurre d’anchois.—Filet de boeuf, au yin de Ma- 
d£re.—Fricandeau, sauce tomate.—Ris de veau pique it la finan- 
cifcre.—Ris de veau it la poulette.—Tete de veau en matelotle. 
—Tete de veau en tortue.—Cotelette de mouton it la Soubise. 
—Cotelette de mouton saut6e aux truffes.—Filet mignon.— 
Rognons, au vin de Champagne. 

POULTRY (VOLAILLE). 

Poulet ci la Marengo.—Poulet en fricassdc.—Poulet a la tar- 
tare.—Poulet en Mayonnaise.—Poulet saute aux champignons. 
—Supreme de volaille.—Coquille it la finaneiere.—Croquettes de 
volaille.—Salade de volaille a la Mayonnaise.—Ragout it la fi- 
nanciere.—Foie gras en caisse. 

GAME (Gibier). 

Perdreau en salmis aux truffes.—Perdreau roti.—Caille a la 
financi&re.—Caille rotie. 

PASTRY (Patisserie). 

Yol-au-vent it la finaneiere.—Vol-au-vent de ris de veau 
aux truffes.—Vol-au-vent de turbot a la bechamelle.—Yol-au- 
vent de filet de volaille aux truffes.—Pat<5 de foie gras. 

FISH (Poisson). 

Turbot, sauce aux huitres.—Turbot, sauce aux capres.—Sau- 
mon, sauce aux capres.—Saumon a la Genevoise.—Truite en 
Mayonnaise.—Eperlan au gratin.—Eperlan frit.—Sole au gra- 
tin.—Sole a la Normande.—Filet de Sole it la maitre d’hotel. 
—Matelotte de carpe et d’anguille.—Anguille ii la tartare.—B6- 
chamelle de poisson.—Ecrevisses it la Rordelaise. 

SIDE-DISHES (Entremets). 

Coquille aux champignons.—Macaroni au gratin.—Choux- 
fieurs au Parmesan.—Omelette aux fines herbes.—Artichauts 
a la barigoule.—Artichauts frits. 

SWEET DITTO (Entremets au Sucre). 

Beignets de pomme.—Beignets d’abricots.—Omelette soufllde. 
Omelette aux confitures.—Charlotte de pomme.—Charlotte aux 
confitures.—Charlotte russe.—Charlotte aux fraises.—Croquettes 
de riz.—Abricots a la Cond£.—Croutes au Mad&re.—Meringue 
aux confitures.—Meringue glactie. 

WINES (Vins). 

Red. Burgundy. —Beaune. — Pomard. — Nuits. —Volnay. — 
Chambertin. — Romance. — Hermitage.— Cole-Rotie. — Claret.— 
Chateau-Margaux.—Mouton.—Laflitte.—Medoc.—Pichon.— 
White. Chablis.— Meursault.— Saint-Peray.—Hermitage.—Sau- 
ternc.—Champagne.—S weet Wines. Lunch—Frontignan. 





PREFACE. Vii 

LIQUEURS. 

Eau-de-vie. — Kirsch. — Anisette. —Curasao. — Marasquin.— 
Absinthe.—Creme de Moka.—Noyau.—Creme de Caffi.—Huile 
de Yanille.—Huile de Rose.—Liqueurs des lies. 

As the portions served at the restaurants are very copious, 
parties of two or more persons will do well to take portions 
only for half their number, viz., one portion for two persons, 
two for four, &c. 

The visitor in Paris who is inclined to go to a boarding-house 
should be very careful to choose one of respectability ; and we 
caution the stranger against a kind of establishment that is 
apt to deceive foreigners, and which has become very prevalent 
in this capital since the abolition by law of public gaming¬ 
houses. Many persons have opened tables-d’hdte and board¬ 
ing-houses, under cover of which card-playing to a considerable 
extent is carried on in the evening, and the unwary visitor 
may be easily inveigled to play, and to lose sums to a large 
amount. They are frequented by persons of both sexes, of 
fashionable exterior, but of very indifferent character. 

The facilities of introduction and of social intercourse which 
Paris affords to distinguished strangers far exceed those of any 
other capital. A presentation at Court must of course be 
sought through the usual medium, that of the ambassador of 
the country to which the applicant may belong, and a court- 
dress is requisite to be admitted to balls or receptions at 
the Tuileries. Generally, however, the stranger in Paris 
will find that the greater part of the resident families in 
fashionable, official, or professional life, and not a few of 
the foreign, domiciled for a longer or shorter time, receive , 
from the commencement to the close of the winter season, 
once a-week, in the evening, between the hours of nine 
and twelve. Most of the eminent savants and men of let¬ 
ters, chief librarians, and directors of the great literary and 
scientific institutions of the capital, have likewise their 
soirees. In addition to these there are numberless private 
balls and occasional parties, to which personal respecta¬ 
bility and suitable acquaintance ensure easy access. What we 
may call more public and advantageous, are the evening recep¬ 
tions of the Ministers of State, the presidents of the Senate 
and Legislative Body, the ecclesiastical dignitaries, the chiefs of 
the national guard, the prefect of the Seine, the higher munici¬ 
pal functionaries, and even the directors and principal artistes 
of the first theatres. In the course of a month the prominent 
persons of every department of political, literary, and fashion¬ 
able life may be seen at the various soirees, so as to content 
the curiosity of a well-bred stranger of liberal tastes and active 





Vlll 


PREFACE. 


social habits. The host dees not spontaneously serve as in¬ 
troducer; considering the multitude of foreigners circulating; 
the task would indeed be impossible ; but a request suffices for 
the formation of a cursory acquaintance, which is often im¬ 
proved into an agreeable intimacy. At these assemblages long 
visits and long “talks” are not bon ton; as it is the custom to 
attend several the same evening. The name of the guest is usually 
announced at the door of the salon; after a salutation of the 
hosts, movement within and exit are entirely free. Whoever 
wishes to be presented at the soiree of a Minister does best to 
seek the auspices of the diplomatic representative of his coun¬ 
try, who ushers the elite only, and with a discrimination uni¬ 
versally expected. The foreign legations and agents, and the 
superior officers, in full uniform, together with strangers of 
rank, and natives and envoys from all regions in costume, 
who frequent them, produce an exceedingly imposing effect. 
A refined and amiable courtesy marks the deportment of 
all the entertainers. The number of ladies that figure at the 
Ministerial soirees is comparatively small; yet most of the fe¬ 
male members of the Ministers’ families appear also. Little 
conversation, however, takes place; a passing bow, or a few 
sentences from a, familiar acquaintance, is the most that polite¬ 
ness or gallantry can bestow on these occasions. The public 
balls of a benevolent nature afford opportunity, at the cost 
of ten or twenty francs a ticket, of seeing the haut ton of 
French and foreign society. 

The professional reader will find in the chapter on Medical 
Institutions the most ample information, now so frequently 
required by foreigners, more especially by the English and 
Americans. 

Ample information will likewise be found respecting births, 
deaths, marriages, wills, trade-marks, etc. 

The English Hospital and Asylum, 35, Boulevard Bineau, 
Parc cle Neuilly, outside the Barriere Villiers, erected in 
18GG, and long much needed, well deserves a visit from the 
stranger, it being quite a model hospital (sec p. 123). 

The following few remarks on the best mode of visiting the 
Environs of Paris may be useful to the stranger. 

Persons visiting Versailles should leave Paris not later than 
9 a.m. and proceed by the Versailles and Meudon railroad (left 
bank), Boulevard Montparnasse, the station of which at 
Versailles is the nearest to the palace. This will allow of a 
cursory glance being taken of the exterior of the palace, and 
at 11 o'clock, the time of opening the doors, visitors can enter 
at once and inspect the interior without being annoyed by the 


PREFACE. 


ix 

erowd. Those provided with special tickets, obtained as de¬ 
scribed at p. iv., may claim the services of a separate attendant 
to view the reserved apartments, and will thus be spared the 
annoyance of being shown through them hurriedly in batches 
of from thirty to forty persons. The same may be said of the 
Trianons, which should not be visited on the same day as Ver¬ 
sailles, if they would be enjoyed. The stranger may return 
to Paris by the Versailles and St. Cloud railroad (right hank), 
by which means two magnificent views of Paris and the 
neighbouring country will be obtained, one from the south by 
the former railroad, the other from the west and northwest by the 
latter. The museum of Versailles is closed on Mondays. 

1 *7 

The Lyons railroad will take the stranger to Fontaine¬ 
bleau. Leaving Paris by the first or second train, he will be 
there by 9 to 11 o’clock (1.) The magnificent palace, more his¬ 
toric in its decorations than Versailles, and with its park and 
gardens forming altogether the finest sight of the kind in France, 
may then be fully inspected. If the visitor be not afraid of a 
little fatigue, he will have time enough to hire a carriage for a 
drive of a few hours to the more picturesque points of the fa¬ 
mous forest, full of romantic beauties and rocky scenery, 
which would well employ another day, if it could be spared. 

Many other delightful excursions may he made in the envi¬ 
rons of Paris, a great number of which are now easily accom¬ 
plished by the existing railroads. Thus the Chartres line 
passes through Rambouillet, famed for its chateau and park; 
through Gaillardon, with its old historical Donjon; Maintenon, 
remarkable for the splendid chateau and park of the Due do 
Noailles, with the adjoining aqueduct; and Chartres, cele¬ 
brated for its beautiful cathedral and valuable library, con- 
taining upwards of 1000 manuscripts, both of which may 
be seen in one day.—The Versailles railroad (right bank) 
passes through the villages of Suresne, Puteaux, St. Cloud, 
and Sevres. The Autcuil branch offers a convenient mode 
of conveyance to the Hois de Boulogne; the station of 
the Avenue de lTmperatrice is the best for that purpose. (See 
p. 486.) — The Versailles railroad (left bank), by Meudon, 
Bellevue. — The St. Germain line touches at Nanterre, - 
Rueil, andChatou, where the adjoining Park of Vesinet offers 
charming walks. At this station vehicles may be found for 
Bougival, Marly, and the wood of La Celle.—The Rouen line 
touches at Poissy, Meulan, and Mantes.—The Northern passes 

(l) The Tndicaleur des Chemins de Fer, which gives the hours of 
departure of the railway trains of all Ihe lines may be had for 
a few sous at all the omnibus officer 



X PREFACE. 

through St. Denis, a town not to be on any account omitted, 
and Enghien-les-Bains, from which place a railway goes to 
Montmorency, the forest of which is highly picturesque ; 
a ride by the Hermitage to Ecouen, or by Andilly to the 
Rendez-vous de Chasse, is one of the greatest treats that 
a lover of fine scenery can enjoy. At the Chantilly station of 
the same line, which also touches at Poutoise, there is a 
branch railway to §>enlis, which may easily be seen in a day ; 
further on is Compiegne, whence the stranger may proceed 
to the castle and spa of Pierrefonds, and the Roman camp of 
Champlieu, with its amphitheatre, and other antiquities, these 
excursions requiring a day, including the return to Compiegne. 
Lastly, Ermenonville and Mortefontaine may be reached by 
hiring carriages at Senlis, which will also lake a day.— 
By the Strasbourg line the stranger may visit Meaux, the 
cathedral containing the monument of Bossuet, and the walks 
in which he used to meditate his w r orks.—The Sceaux rail¬ 
road leads to Arcueil, Bagneux, and Bourg-la-Reine. From 
hence vehicles go to Chatillon and Fontenay-aux-Roses.—The 
Orleans line touches at Choisy-le-Roi, and a branch of the 
Lyons line leads direct to Corbeil.—The new Vincennes 
railroad affords great facilities for visiting Vincennes, St. Maur, 
and Fontenay-sous-Bois, in one day. The Park of Vincennes 
has now become the chief attraction at the east end of the 
capital; the Parc de Ghaumont, laid out with extraordinary 
taste, and affording one of the finest views of Paris, enlivens 
the quarter of La Villette, and the west end boasts the Park 
of Monceaux, in addition to the delightful one of Boulogne 
and the Champs Ely sees. 

The Fetes of most of the places in the environs of Paris are 
held on a Sunday, but, as they change every year w r ith the 
moveable festivals, to avoid leading the stranger into error, we 
have not given the day in our description of the places, refer¬ 
ring the reader for correct information to the notices published 
beforehand in the daily English journal, Galignani’s Messenger. 



NEW PARIS GUIDE. 


PART I. 

GENERAL INFORMATION. 

PASSPORTS.—The passport system, which was formerly 
enforced with great rigour in France, has now been abolished 
here so far as English, Belgian, and Dutch travellers are con¬ 
cerned. To visit the rest of the Continent, a British subject 
must be provided with a Foreign Office Passport, available 
for one year ; the tourist must apply in writing to “ Her Ma¬ 
jesty’s Secretary of State, Foreign Office, London,” with the 
word “ Passport” conspicuously written on the cover. Par¬ 
ties not personally known to the Secretary of Stale must ap¬ 
ply through a person who is ; or through a banking Firm, 
or a Member of either House of Parliament, or with a cer¬ 
tificate of identity signed by any mayor, magistrate, justice 
of the peace, minister of religion, physician, surgeon, so¬ 
licitor or notary, resident in the United Kingdom. Every 
such certificate must bear the signature of the tourist, who 
may obtain his passport at the Foreign Office the day follow¬ 
ing the receipt of application, between 11 and 4 , either in 
person, or by deputy, with a written authorisation . in this 
case the words “Passport will be applied for at the 
Foreign Office ” must be added to the certificate of identity. 
If it is desired that the passport should be sent by post, the 
sum of two shillings must be forwarded, with the application, 
by post-office order, made payable to the “ Chief Clerk of the 
Foreign Office ” at the post-office, Charing Cross. The passport 
must receive the visa of the ambassador or consul-general of 
the country or countries which the tourist intends to visit. 

Since the 1st of January 1861, British subjects may enter 
and circulate freely without passports, provided they pre¬ 
sent themselves at'the passport office on landing, to have 
their nationality identified. A British subject may secure the 
advantage of visiting the public establishments of Paris by 

i 



2 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

having his visiting-card stamped by a functionary appointed 
for the purpose at the port or frontier. This formality, how¬ 
ever, is almost unnecessary. (1.) 

ROUTES TO PARIS.—The following is a list of the various 
routes from the coast to Paris, all by railway. 

I. Calais to Paris in 8 to to hours, by Arras and Amiens. 

II. Boulogne to Paris in 6 to 8 hours. (Fine church at 
Abbeville, and Cathedral at Amiens.) 

III. Havre to Paris, in 5 to 7 hours, passing through 
Rouen. (Cathedral of St. Ouen, statue of Joan of Arc, Museum, 
Bridge, Quays, &c., are well worth stopping one day at Rouen.) 

IV. Dieppe to Paris, through Rouen, in 5 to 7 hours. 

V. Ostend to Paris, by Brussels, Lille, 6cc., in 12 to 13 hours. 

CONVEYANCES. — Correct information respecting these 

may be obtained at the railroad and packet offices in London. 
The Dover, Folkestone, Southampton, and Brighton trains leave 
several times a-day to meet the packets. The best routes to 
Paris for rapidity are by the morning or evening mail-post 
trains, by Dover and Calais in 11 hours; for day travelling, 
Folkestone and Boulogne; and for scenery, but with a longer 
sea passage, Southampton to Havre, or Newhaven to Dieppe. 

Steam Packets. —Packets leave London-bridge for Calais 
and Boulogne, almost daily, especially in summer. Packets 
start daily from Dover and Folkestone ; from Newhaven to 
Dieppe, and Southampton to Havre, the Channel islands, 
St. Malo, 8tc., several times a-week. 

Public, Coaches.— Diligences carry about 15 passengers, 
and contain several kinds of places. All luggage above 40lb. 
to 50lb. per head is charged. The day, hour, and seat, are 
marked on the receipt. For information apply to the Messa- 
geries Imperiales, 28, rue Notre-Damedes Victoires ; and 130, 
rue St. Honore, and to the coach-oflices (see list before title-p.) 

Posting. —To travel by post, a livre de poste, price 4 fr., 
containing all requisite information, should be procured. Fee 
to the postilion, 2 fr. per myriametre (about 6% miles), if he 
has behaved well; legally, 1 fr. Carriages may be hired for 
journeys from the postmasters at about 12 fr. per diem. 

RAILROADS.—Eleven of these, having stations in Paris, arc 
in operation; viz.; I. The St. Germain railroad, 124, rue St. 
Lazare, the first railway opened (1837.)—II. The llouen rail¬ 
road, 9, rue d’Amsterdam, continued to Havre, with a branch 
o Dieppe.--HI. The Versailles railroad on the northern 

(t) Last year the number of arrivals and departures of British 
subjects were as follows .—Boulogne, 106,392 ; Calais, V7,2C&; 
other ports, 5fi,oi2; total, 23‘>,^09.3 


CONVEYANCES. 3 

bank of the Seine, 124, rue St. Lazare, communicating 
with St. Cloud and intermediate places. —IV. The Western 
railroad, boulevard Montparnasse, leading to Cherbourg by 
Versailles and Rennes.—V. The Orleans railroad, rue Neuve 
de la Gare (near the Jardin des Plantes), through Nantes, 
Bordeaux and Bayonne, with branches to Limoges and 
Toulouse.—VI. The Sceaux and Orsay railroad, boulevard St. 
Jacques, on the Arnoux system (see p. 547.)—VII. The Nor¬ 
thern railroad, 24, rue de Dunkerque, connecting Paris with 
the Belgian frontier by Amiens and Valenciennes. It has 
branches to Soissons, St. Quentin, Boulogne, and Calais.— 
VIII. The Strasbourg railroad, place de Strasbourg (boule¬ 
vard of that name).—IX. The Lyons railroad, boulevard Mazas, 
touching at Fontainebleau.—X. The Corbcil railroad, a 
branch of the preceding.—XI. The Vincennes railroad, 
a suburban line, opened in 1859.—XII. The Chemin defer 
de Ceinture, or railway round Paris. (1) Notices of the fares 
and hours of departure, may be obtained gratis at the re¬ 
spective stations (2). Connecting omnibuses for these rail¬ 
ways may be found at different points of Paris (3). 

STEAM-BOATS start from the Quai d’Orsay in summer, 
for Sevres and St. Cloud, several times a day, and from the 
Quai de la Greve, for Melun and Montereau. There are also 
omnibus-boats on the Seine, first established for direct com¬ 
munication between Bercy and St. Cloud during the Great 
Exhibition of 1807, but now plying between Auteuil and 
Charenton. There are stations at the Ponts de l'Alma, de la 
Concorde, du Carrousel, &c. 

MUNICIPAL DIVISION OF PARIS.—The stranger, on his 
arrival in Paris, should not neglect acquiring, by the study 
of his map, a general idea of the 20 arrondissements and 80 
quarters into which the capital is divided, as follows :— 

( 4 ) This railway, completed in 18G7, is 33 kilometres (01 miles) 
in length, and lias cost about 30 millions of francs. It has 
numerous stations, and crosses the Seine at Bercy and al Auteuil. 

( 2 ) In France the reserved compartments in all passenger 
trains are severally marked “ Post-office,” “For ladies only,” 
“For smokers,” or simply “Reserved.” No persons except 
those entitled so to do are allowed to enter such compartments. 

( 3 ) The length of all the railroads of France working in 1807 
was 9,793 miles; their receipts were 656,494 ,100 fr. They an¬ 
nually pay 45 millions oi francs taxes. Capital in\eslcd 4,35o 
millions of francs, 7 50 of which are paid by Government. The 
loss of life by accidents is 4 in 4,955,535 passengers; wounds, 
4 to 496,534. By diligence the ratios were respectively 4 in 
355,463, and 4 in 29,871. 


4 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

ARRONDISSEMENTS 4ND QUARTERS 


1st. Louvre. 

1. St. Germain l’Auxerrois.— 
2. Halles.—3. Palais Royal.—4. 
Place Vendome. 

2d. Bourse. 

5. Gaillon.—6. Vivienne.—7. 
Mail.—8. Bonne Nouvelle. 

3d. Temple. 

9. Arts et Metiers.— 10 . En- 
fants Rouges.—11. Archives.— 
12. Ste. Avoie. 

4th. Hotel-de-Ville. 

13. St. Merri.— 14. St. Gervais. 
—15. Arsenal.—16. Notre Dame. 
5th. Pantheon. 

17. St. Victor.—18. Jardin des 
Plantes.—19.Valde Grace. - 20. 
Sorbonne. 

6th. Luxembourg. 

21. Monnaie.—22. Od6on.— 

23. Notre-Dame des Champs.— 

24. St. Germain des Pr£s. 

7th. Palais Bourbon. 

25 . St. Thomas d’Aquin.—26. 
Invalides.—27. Ecole militaire. 
—28. Gros-Caillou. 

8th. Elysee. 

29. Champs ElysiSes. — 30. 
Faubourg du Route.—31. Made¬ 
leine.—32. Europe. 

9th. Opera. 

33. St. Georges.—34. Chaus- 
s<5e d’Antin.—35. Faub. Mont¬ 
martre.—36. Rochechouart. 
IOtii. Enclos St. Laurent. 

37. St. Vincent de Paul.—38. 
Porte. St. Denis.—39. Porte St. 
Martin.—40. Hopital St. Louis. 


llTH. POPINCOURT. 

4i. Folie-Mericourt.—42. St. 
Ambroise. — 43. Roquette. — 44. 
Ste. Marguerite. 

12TH. REUILLY. 

45. Bel Air.—46. Picpus.—47. 
Bercy.—48. Quinze-Vingts. 
13th. Gobelins. 

49. Salp6fri£re. — 50. Gare.— 
51 . Maison Blanche.—52. Crou- 
lebarbe. 

14th. Observatoire. 

53. Montparnasse.—54. Santd. 

— 55. Petit-Montrouge. — 56. 
Plaisance. 

15th. Yaugirard. 

57. St. Lambert. —58. NecLer. 

— 59. Grenelle.—60. Javel. 

16th. Passy. 

61 . Auteuil.— 62 . La Muette. 
—63. Porte Dauphine.—64. Des 
Bassins. 

17. Batignolles Monceaux. 

65. Ternes.—66. Plaine Mon¬ 
ceaux.— 67. Batignolles. — 68. 
Epinettes. 

18th. Butte Montmartre. 
69. Grandes Carri^res. — 70. 
Clignancourt.—71. Goutte d’Or. 
—72. La Chapelle. 

19th. Buttes Chaumont 
73. La Villette.—74. Pont de 
Flandre.— 75. Amdrique. — 76. 
Combat. 

20 th. Menilmontant. 

77 . Belleville. — 78. St. Far- 
geau.—79. Pere-Lachaisc.— 80. 
Charonne. 


CARRIAGES, HACKNEY-COACHES —Voitures de grande 
remise (glass coaches) may be hired by the day or month, 
at from 25 to 30 fr. a-day, or from 600 to 700 fr. a-month. 
They will go a certain distance out of Paris, hut must be hack 
again before midnight, unless agreed upon; and with a small 
additional charge a lad is given to go behind the carriage. 

There are two kinds of public cabs, the one called voi¬ 
tures de remise , which go rather quicker, and are to he 
found under covered standings ; they are rather superior to 
the others, called voitures de place , or Fiacres , which are 




CARRIAGES AND IIACKNEY-COACHES. 5 

ranged in 'public stands. The former are distinguished by a 
red number, the latter by a yellow one. The following is a 
table of the maximum fares allowed to he charged :— 


INSIDE PARIS. 

From 6 o’clock a.m. in summer| From half- 
(lst April to 1st October), and an-hour after 
from 7 a,m. in winter (1st midnight to 6 
October to 31st March) to a.m.in summer 
half-an-hour after midnight, and to 7 a.m. 

in winter. 


Hackney coaches 
and voilures dt 
remise taken on 
the public stands 
Holding two or 
three persons . 

Holding four or five 
Remise , taken at 
private stands : 

Holding two or 
three persons . 

Holding four or five 

LUGGAGE : One package, 25c 


Drive. 

Hour. 

Drive. 

Hour. 

f. c. 

f. c. 

f. 

c. 

f. c. 

1 50 

2 0 

2 

25 

2 50 

1 70 

2 26 

2 

50 

2 75 

1 80 

2 25 

3 

0 

3 0 

2 0 

2 50 

3 

0 

3 0 


BEYOND THE FOR¬ 
TIFICATIONS. 

Hois de Doulogne, 
Bois de Vincennes, and 
the communes outside 
the fortifications. 

From 6 a.m. to mid¬ 
night in summer or 10 
p m. in winter. 


When re¬ 
turn i n g 
with the 
cal) to Paris 

The drive 
or hour. 
f. c. 

2 60 ) 

2 76 ) 


3 


When quit- 
tingthecab 
beyond the 
fortficatns. 

Return 

indemnity. 

1 franc. 


two, 60c. 


2 francs, 
three or more, 75c. 


Coachmen load and unload all trunks, etc. W hatever article 
can be carried in the hand, or taken inside without injuring 
the vehicle cannot he charged as luggage. 

It is customary to give the driver a small gratuity, of 
from 3 to lo sous, according to time. (1) 

When it is intended lo take the carriage by the hour, the 
driver must be told so beforehand, else he can demand the price 
of a “ course ” for each stoppage. The traveller should show 
the driver the time by his watch. After the first hour, 
the time above the full hour is paid in proportion. 

A system of cab-fares by time and distance is soon to come 
into operation conjointly with the one just described. The 
proprietors of such conveyances as may choose to adopt this 
tariff must provide instruments marking the time and distance. 


(l) There are no police-regulations concerning fares for 
drives beyond the fortifications after lo p.m. in winter and 
12 in summer; but a bargain may be made. The fare is stuck 
up inside for the information of the public. Impositions are 
severely punished. Nearly all the voilures de place belong to the 
same Company, which clears about 2 ,ooo,ooofr. per annum, 
with a capital of 42,5o0,ooofr. It employs il,ooo horses, and 
pays the City about 2 ,ooo,o 0 ofr. per annum for licence and 
coach-tax. A voilurede place produces i5fr. daily. 











6 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

The pace is not to be less than eight kilometres (five miles) the 
hour. For vehicles with two or three seats, the charges will 
be during the day, and for the First kilometre, 8 5 centimes ; 
during the night 90c. ; for each additional kilometre 25c. 
For those carrying four or five persons, the first kilometre 
90c. ; twelve kilometres 4fr. 20c. Such public carriages as 
adopt this scale are bound to take fares to the Bois de Boulogne, 
the Bois de Vincennes, and the communes outside and adjoin¬ 
ing the fortifications. 

The driver is bound to give a printed card with his number, 
which it is well to preserve, in case of forgetting anything in 
the coach. (1) All vehicles are numbered; and, incase of 
accident or insolence, redress can be had by writing one’s 
complaint in a register kept at the cab-stands for the purpose. 

There are also vehicles for the environs. Those which go to 
St. Cloud, Versailles, and St. Germain, start from the Rue 
de Rivoli. For starting-places, see pages before title. (2) 

OMNIBUSES.—There are 31 lines of omnibuses (3) in 
Paris, which ply from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. They convey 
about 80 millions of passengers per annum, for 6 sous inside, 
and 3 on the imperialc, or top. They stop at different offices 
or bureaux on their way, to take up passengers, and set down 
those who have claimed a check, called correspondance, de¬ 
livered gratis by the “cad,” for the purpose of deviating from 
the direct line. The following is a list of all the omnibuses, 
with the offices where they may be waited for ;— 

A.—Palais Royal, Auteuil—Along the Cours la Relne and the quays. 

AB -Place de la Bourse, l'assy.—Place de la Madeleine ; H7, Rue du Fau¬ 
bourg St. Honors. 

AC. —Cours la Reine, Petite villctte —15, Rue Rovale St. Hon.: 79, Rue 
Lafaycltc. 

AD. -Pont de PAlma, Chateau d’eau.—75, Rue St. Dominique: Place 
Dauphine. 

AE. -Place des Arts ct Metiers, Vincennes.—78, Boulevard du Temple, 
Place du Trone. Correspondence with E. 

(1) Rewards are given to drivers for delivering lo the Police 
articles of value left in theircarriages. The articles are restored 
to the owners on application at the Prefecture. 

( 2 ) The number of public carriages authorised by the police 
is 7602, thus classed :—Hackney-coaches and cabriolets, 3000 ; 
voitures de remise, 2598; omnibuses, 664 ; glass-coaches, 1,400. 

(3) The charter of the omnibus company expires in 1910 . It 
pays the City t,t56,ooo fr. for the right of driving 664 omnibuses. 
It is bound lo keep special omnibuses for the conveyance of 
workmen at the option of the municipality ; and, when re¬ 
quired, to furnish 50 carts for public purposes. Tickets may be 
bought beforehand for paying the fare. 


POST-OFFICE. 7 

AF. —Place Courcelles, Pantheon—Place dc la Madeleine; 15. Rue Royale 
St. Honor6 ; Place de la Concorde, Correspondence with AB, E, and A. 

AG. —Straslmrg Railway, Montrouge.—Place du Cliatelet, Pont St. Michel. 
Correspondence with G* 

AH—Montmartre, Bastille.—76, Boulevard de Strasbourg; Place de la 
Bastille. Correspondence w ith E. 

B. —Trocadero,StrashurgRailway.—90. Avenue dos Champs Ely sees, 15. Rue 
Royale; Place de la Madeleine; Versailles terminus; 78, Rue St. Lazare : 
Rue Ollivier, Notre Dame de l.orelle ; 79, Rue I afayette. 

C. —Louvre, Courbevoie.—Rue du Louvre; Place du Palais Royal; Avenue 
des Champs F.Iysees, corner of Rue de Berry ; Avenue de NcuiJly. 

D. —Ternes, Fillesdu Calvaire.—117, Faubourg St. Honore; 15, Rue Royale; 
Place de la Madeleine; 155, Rue St. Honore. 

E. —Madeleine, Bastille.—Along the Boulevards. Correspondence with D. 

F. —Monceaux, Bastille.—Versailles terminus ; Place de la Madeleine; Rue 
Catinal; 30, Rue Rambuleau. 

G. —Batignolles-Monceaur, Jardin des Plantes.—Place du Palais Royal; Rue 
du Louvre ; Place du Chalelel. 

H. —Clichy, Odeon.—9, Rue Ollivier; 8, Boulevard des Italicns; Place du 
Palais Royal; 4 and 8,Place St. Sulpice. 

L—Place Pigalle, Halle aux Vins.—Place de la Bourse ; Rue Croix des 
Petits Champs; Place Dauphinc. Correspondence with AB. 

J. —Boulevard Rochechouart, la Glaciere.—Place du Ch.itelct; 2. Pont St. 
Michel ; 14, Rue Soufflot. 

K. —College de France. La Cliapelle.—Porte St. Denis ; Place du Chatclet; 
Pont St. Michel. Correspondence with E 

L. —Place St. Sulpice, Villette.—Pont St. Michel; Porte St. Martin. Cor¬ 
respondence with E. 

M. —Les Ternes, Belleville, Boulevards Ext6rieurs.—Correspondence with 
II and J. 

N. —Belleville, Place des Victoires.—78, Boulevard du Temple ; Porte St. 
Martin; Porte St. Denis; Rue Catinat. Correspondence with E. 

O. —Mcnilmontant, C-haussee du Maine.—Boulevard des Fillesdu Calvaire; 
Place du Chatclet; Place St. Sulpice. Correspondence with E. 

P. —Charonne (for Pere La Chaise), Barriere Fontainebleau —Place de la 
Bastille. Correspondence with E, F, AE, Q, R. S and Z. 

Q. —Palais Royal, Trdne.—Rue du Louvre; Place du Chatclet; Place de la 
Bastille. Correspondence with E. 

R. —St. Philippe du Roule, Barriire Charenton.—15, Rue Royale; Rue du 
Louvre; Place do la Bastille. 

S. —Louvre, Bercy.— Rue du I ouvre; Place de la Bastille. 

T. —Square Morilholon, Gare d’lvry.—Porte St. Denis; 3G, Rue Rambuteau ; 
Pont Louis Philippe ; Quai de la Tournelle. 

U. —Pointe St. Eustache, Bicfilre.—Place du Chatelet; Ilalle aux Vins, 
Jardin des Plantes, Gobelins. Correspondence with G. 

V. —Maine, Chemin de Fer du Nord.—55, Rue de Sevres; Place Dauphinc ; 
Rue du Louvre. 

X. —Place du Havre, Vaugirard.—Place du PalaisRoyal; G9, Ruede Crenelle 
St. Germain ; 55, Rue de Sevres. 

Y. —Crenelle, Porte St. Martin.—5t, Rue du Thcdtre ; 75, Rue St. Domi¬ 
nique; Place du Palais Royal. 

Z. —Crenelle, Bastille.—G9, Rue de Crenelle; to, Place St. Sulpice; 14, 
Boulevard St. Germain. 

POST OFFICE.— The General Post-office is in the rue Jean 
Jacques Rousseau; the branch offices are divided into bureaux 
principaux , as those at 24, rue de Seze ; 4, Place dela Bourse ; 
at the Corps Legislate, and at the Luxembourg, etc.; and into 
bureaux supplement a ires, as those at 202, rue St. Honore; 




8 


GENERAL INFORMATION. 


75, Faubourg St. Honore; at 3, rue de Chaillot; at 30, rue 
de Londres; at the Lyons, Orleans, and Northern railway 
stations, etc. There are also receiving boxes, boites aux 
lettres, at tobacconists’shops, etc., in every part of the town. 

Unregistered letters arc in time for the evening mail at the 
boites, till 5 o’clock, at the bureaux principaux till a quarter to 
6 o’clock; at the Bourse, and at the head office till 6 o’clock. 
For Lyons, Marseilles, and Algeria, till 7, at the Lyons rail¬ 
way station. For Orleans, Tours, Bordeaux, and the Py¬ 
renees, till 8, at the Orleans railway station. For Rouen, 
Havre, Dieppe, till 9 at the boites; till 10, at the bureau at 
24, rue de Seze, and till half-past 10 at 30, rue de Londres. 

There is also a morning mail for the Departments and 
for Belgium, Holland, Prussia, and Baden, for which 
letters posted at the boites by half-past 11 o’clock, at the 
bureaux principaux by noon, and at the head office by half¬ 
past 12 o’clock, are in time. (1) For England and the Northern 
railway they are in time if posted as follows :— 


At tlie Letter-boxes, before 

„ Bureaux ,, 

„ Hotel des Postes ) 

,, 4, Place dela Bourse j ” 

„ Northern Railway ,, 


Morning mail. 

9 p.m. 

9% p.m. 

a.m. 

a.m. 


Evening Mail. 

5 p.m. 

5^ p.m. 

6 p.m. 

7 p.m. 


Letters leaving London at 7 a.m. are delivered in Paris at 
about 7 p.m. ; and by the evening mail at 9 a.m. There 
is no arrival on Monday morning from England. (2) 

Letters may be posted after 6 p.m. at the Central Office, or 
at 4, Place de la Bourse, on paying an extra tax of 20 c. 
within the first quarter of an hour, of 40 c. within the second, 
or of 60 c. after that time until the closing of the mail-bags. 
At 28, Place de la Madeleine, and 11, rue St. Lazare, the 
time is calculated from a quarter before six. 

The English government boats which leave Marseilles every 
Sunday, take the mails for Malta, Alexandria, Aden, Bombay, 
and Calcutta. Every second Sunday boats leave for the 
Indian Archipelago, Ceylon, China, and Japan. Mails for 
Australia leave once a month. French boats also start from 
Marseilles every Thursday for Malta, every other Sunday for 
Malta and Alexandria, and every Saturday for Constanti¬ 
nople. Letters for these departures should be posted in Paris 
two days previously ; but for the English steamers letters 
posted at the head office are in time until 6 p.m. every Friday 


(1) There are two and more general posts a-day, to many 
places distant 450 kilometres (280 miles) and more from Paris. 

(2) Letters for London put into the Post-ofiice in Paris on Sa¬ 
turday are delivered on Monday, with those put in on Sunday. 




POST-OFFICE. 


9 

or second Friday. When for Aden and other parts beyond, 
they should be marked “voie de Suez (l). Letters going 
through England must be marked “voie d’Angleterre,” and 
“ by private ship,” if that is the intention, and be posted in 
Paris 2 days before the departure from England. 

Letters are franked, either by putting on stamps of 
sufficient value, or else by having them weighed at the 
post-office, to avoid mistake. (2) A letter posted with in¬ 
sufficient stamps for a foreign country goes as unpaid if the 
prepayment for that country is optional, and if not, is thrown 
into the dead letter office. Letters for England only pay the 
difference between the value of the stamps and the postage. 

Letters are registered ( chargees ) for any part of France, 
and for those foreign countries to which the franking is op¬ 
tional. Inland letters pay four sous extra; for foreign 
countries they pay double postage. These letters must be 
prepaid and must have five well-defined seals thus 
placed, so as to make it impossible to open any part, 
and be presented at a post-office. A receipt is given 
for them, and in case of loss 50 francs are allowed. 

Paris letters for Paris (3) pay, if prepaid, 2 sous for under 
20 grammes, 4 sous for under 40 grammes, etc., and 5 cent, 
more if not prepaid. There are 7 deliveries per day, letters 
arriving from 3 to 4 hours after being posted (4). 

Newspapers, periodicals, and other works in print must be 
secured with strips of paper called bandes, so as not to cover 
more than one-third of the surface, and to allow of their 
being easily removed to examine the contents. If they con¬ 
tain anything in writing except the direction, they are 
charged as letters by weight. They must be prepaid, delivered 
at the office, and, for the evening mail, before 2 o’clock. (5) 

The following table shows the rates of postage for various 
countries, for letters and newspapers. To the countries 
marked with an asterisk all letters must be prepaid; to the 

(1) The French Post-office refuses letters to hot climates closed 
with sealing wax, since it makes the letters stick together, and 
renders the addresses illegible. 

( 2 ) Patterns of goods, photographs, and business papers, un¬ 
sealed, are charged for England at 30c. per 120 grammes, or under. 

( 3 ) This ser\ice, begun in 1760, is called La Petite Poste. 

( 4 ) The total number of French post-offices was 4,500 in 1868. 
The total number of post-office functionaries throughout all 
France is upwards of 30 , 000 , including 25,000 postmen. The 
number of the latter in Paris is 4 93. 

(•;) The number of political periodicals in Paris is 63 ; of non¬ 
political, 511 . In the departments, 267 and 250 respectively. 




io 


GENERAL INFORMATION. 


others franking is optional for common letters, but lettres 
. chargees, or money letters, as also newspapers, must in all 
cases be prepaid. The latter are charged according to weight, 
the lowest being 40 grammes. For Turkey, the Papal Slates, 
the Ionian Islands, Austria, and Saxony, the weight allowed 
for the price marked is 45 grammes. For larger size or 
weight the prices here given must be proportionally increased. 


COUNTRIES. 

Franco, Algeria, and Corsica 
Great Britain, (1) Malta (1) 

British N. America, Greece 
South America on the Pacific * 
l>o. on the Atlantic* Paraguay (1) 
Central do.*, Venezuela*, Bermuda* 
Portugal*, Azores*, Madeira* . . 

St Helena*, Cape Verd*, Australia*, ] 

Cape*.; 

East and West Indies, Aden, Ceylon 
Hong Kong, Mauritius, New Zealand 
China*, United States (1) . . , 

Spain (1), Holland, Bavaria, Italy. 

Belgium. 

Sweden.. 

N orway. 

Switzerland. 

Alexandria, Constantinople f'ea) . 
Turkey (land), to Austrian frontier 

Papal States (1).. . 

Austria, Venice. 

Russia, Poland. 

Baden (1). 

Saxony (1), Prussia, Denmark, 
French Colonies. 


Single letters. 

NEWSPAPERS 

Franked. 

Un- 

Iranked. 

always 

prepaid. 

f. 

c. 

f. 

c. 

c. 

0 

20 

0 

60 

4 

0 

40 

0 

80 

8 

1 

0 

1 

0 

12, 8 

1 

0 

0 

0 

17 

0 

80 

0 

0 

12 

0 

80 

0 

0 

12 

0 

60 

0 

0 

8 

0 

80 

0 

0 

12 

0 

80 

0 

80 

20 

0 

80 

0 

80 

‘20 

0 

80 

0 

80 

12 

0 

40 

0 

60 

8, 8, 10, 6 


30 


50 

6 

0 

80 

1 

0 

20 

1 

0 

1 

10 

30 

0 

30 

0 

50 

8 

0 

50 

1 

0 

8 

0 

60 

0 

60 

10 

1 

0 

1 

0 

10, 20 

0 

60 

0 

80 

10 

1 

10 

1 

10 

10 

0 

30 

0 

40 

8 

0 

50 

0 

60 

10,10, 10,12 


For most countries the unit of weight is 10 grammes; 
equal to 154 grains, or to two francs in silver. 

Postage stamps are; green, for 1 sou, for newspapers and 
visiting cards. Bistre, for 2 sous. Blue, for 4 sous. Chestnut, 
for 6 sous. Orange, for 8. Bed, for 16 sous; and Violet, 
lor 5 fr. They are used indiscriminately to make up the value 
required, and sold at all the post-offices and tobacconists. (2) 


(1) Here the unit of weight is 7^ grammes. In France 
the double letter, weighing 20 grammes, costs 4oe., but from 2o 
to loo grammes the charge is only soc. 

( 2 ) The last published receipts of the Post-ofiice for fifteen 
years give the following results : — 


1853 

49,369,043 fr. 

I 1858 

57,373,210 fr. 

1863 

1854 

53.707.833 „ 

1859 

61,594,130 „ 

1864 

1855 

54,040,756 „ 

1800 

03,065.726 ,, 

1865 

1876 

55,843,228 „ 
56,030,835 „ 

1861 

60,781,059 „ 

I860 

1857 

1 1802 

69,928,045 „ 

1867 


72,878,859 fr. 
75,000.000 ,, 
78,727,472 „ 
81,853,529 „ 
80,412,382 „ 


In 1821 , the receipts were only 24 , 000,000 fr. Uniform posla 





















APARTMENTS, HOTELS, ETC. U 


Ill registering and franking at a post-office, the letter must 
be presented from 1 to 2 hours earlier. Such letters cost 
double. Money orders are given by one post-office on any 
other in France ; charge: 1 per cent., with 50 c. for stamp 
duly. For Italy, Belgium, and Switzerland, they are de¬ 
livered at a charge of 20 c. per 10 fr. for a sum not exceed¬ 
ing 200 fr. Orders under 200 fr. are cashed at sight. 

The Paris poste restcmte is open from 8 a. m. to 7 p. m. 
except on Sundays and festivals, when it closes at 5 
p. m. On the party’s showing his passport or card, the letter 
will he delivered; hut the best way is to have them addressed 
to the care of a friend, or some established house. Letters mis¬ 
addressed or unclaimed (tombees en rebut) remain at the Bureau 
des Reclamations; after 4 months they are opened, and 
either destroyed or returned to the address of the writer. 

TELEGRAPHS.—There are now 29 offices in Paris. Those 
at the Home-office and 12, Place de la Bourse are open all 
night. Of the others, the principal are :—the Central Post- 
office ; the railway-stations; the Hotel du Louvre ; the Grand 
Hotel; No. C7, Champs Elysees ; No. 18, Rue St. Pierre, Passy. 
A dispatch from one quarter of Paris to another costs 50 c. for 
20 words, address included, and 10 cent, for every additional 
5 words: charge double if an answer he required. A dispatch 
of 20 words from the department of the Seine to the Seine-et- 
Oise costs 1 fr. 50 cent., and 15 cent, extra for every addi¬ 
tional 5 words. (1) A dispatch by Caselli’s pantelegraph, 
now in operation between Paris and Marseilles, is charged by 
the surface of the leaf, at the rate of 2 0 c. per sq. centimetre. 
Since the 1st January, 18G8, adhesive stamps have been in¬ 
troduced for telegrams. The colours and prices are as 
follows:—Carmine, 25 cent.; green, 50c.; buff, 1 fr. ; 
violet, 2l'r. Amounts exceeding lofr. for France and 20fr. 
for foreign countries must be paid in cash at the office. 
Dispatches insufficiently stamped are not forwarded. (2) 


began in 1 849. The total sum paid for the transmission of 
periodicals is about 7 , 600,000 fr. The number of letters con¬ 
veyed by the post throughout France was, in 


1853 

185,542 

,000 

1858 

253.23 '1,000 

1863 

1854 

212,385 

IK 0 

1859 

259,450,000 

1864 

1855 

233,517 

600 

1850 

273,200,000 

1865 

1850 

252,014 

.873 

1861 

274,000,600 

1866 

1837 

232 921 

,942 

1362 

283,000,000 

1867 


290,000,000 

•208,000.000 

313,506,795 

323,525,105 

341,570,726 


(1) The receipts for private dispatches amounted in i8G4to 
5,3i5,ooo francs. The mean time of Paris is now telegraphed 
from the Observatory to the Hotel de Yille, and thence to the 
principal public clocks. There are at present in France 100,000 
kilometres ( 62,500 miles) of telegraphic lines, and 1 ,606 stations. 

(2) For prompt transmission of dispatches in Paris, a con- 








12 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

APARTMENTS, HOTELS, etc. —Furnished apartments in 
private houses are fewer than in London, being supplied in 
Paris by private hotels, or maisons meublees, which contain 
every kind of lodging, from complete apartments for families, 
including separate kitchens, to a single bed-room. Here the 
traveller enjoys the most perfect freedom from prying notice. 
It is not usual, nor is it advantageous, to go to a maison 
meublee for a stay of a few days. Of hotels there is a great 
abundance in Paris, from the most luxurious down to those of 
the very humblest description. Lodgings may be hired by 
the night, week, or month ; the price ought always to be 
agreed on beforehand, even for a single night; the price 
of a bed-room for one night varies from 2 to 5 fr. (1) There 
are numerous boarding-houses at different charges, both French 
and English (see p. 88). Unfurnished apartments may be 
taken per quarter, and furniture purchased cheap at second¬ 
hand shops, or hired from upholsterers. Good hotels are 
generally provided with a table d'hote, which the traveller 
will find a better plan than sending for a dinner to a restaurant 
or traiteur. Apartments may be had by the day, week, or 
month ; breakfasts are served in the coffee-room or in private 
apartments, and visitors may dine at the table-d’hote or in 
their own rooms. A list contains the charge for every article, 
servants, etc. Such hotels forward letters, and procure in¬ 
formation of every kind with great regularity. Couriers, 
interpreters, and return-carriages may also be had there. 
Among the best hotels in Paris we may mention Meurices, 
228, Rue de Rivoli ; the Hotel du Louvre , Place du Palais 
Royal (see p. 209); the Grand Ildtel, Boulevard des Capucines 
(see p. 213); and as family hotels, the Hdtel Bristol, Place 
Yendome, Lawson's Bedford Hotel, rue de l’Arcade, and 
Hotel des Deux Mondes, rue d’Antin.—See also Directory. 

linuous series of iron tubes, 65 millimetres (2 inchesand ahalf) 
in diameter, has been laid down from the Central-Office in the 
Rue de Grenelle-St.-Germain to Ihc Hotel des Postcs, and back 
again to the Central-Office. This line touches besides at the 
Cercle Imperial in the Rue Boissy-d’Anglas, then at the Grand- 
Hotel, the Bourse, Hotel du Louvre, and the Hopital de la 
Charite. The despatches to be sent off are put into a cylinder 
fitting loosely into the tube, but provided with a leathern disk 
which closes the vertical section of the tube completeiy. The 
cylinder is then driven through the tube by compressed air. 
Each cylinder, one of which is sent off every ten minutes, will 
contain 40 dispatches. There are special boxes for receiving the 
latter at the Bourse, the Tribunals, &c. 

v i) The average number of hotels and furnished houses in P 4 - 
ris, is 5,000, affording accommodation to 70,000 persons. 


13 


CAF^S. 

SERVANTS.—In almost every famished hotel there are ser¬ 
vants who may be hired by the month, fortnight, week, or day. 
The charge is 5 or G francs a-day, as they board themselves. 
They are called valets-de-place; they will be found invalu¬ 
able to the stranger who desires to visit all the curiosities of 
the capital. A well-informed guide can still point out highly 
interesting traces of the olden time, and save the visitor much 
time and trouble. 

INTERPRETERS.—There are in Paris interpreters of every 
language, also offices kept by sworn translators. 

COMMISSIONNAIRES.—Porters, under this name, and 
wearing a numbered brass plate, are found at the corners 
of all principal streets. Letters or parcels may be safely 
entrusted to them; their charges vary from 10 to 40 sous. 

RESTAURATEURS AND TRAITEURS.—These rank among 
the most striking establishments of the capital. (1) Nothing is 
more common than for a great part of the Parisian community, 
including ladies and persons of the first distinction, to dine 
occasionally at a restaurateur’s. Paris nowhere presents a 
scene more elegant than one of the saloons of a first-rate 
restaurateur, fitted up in a style of the highest taste, and 
crowded with a brilliant company of both sexes. The evening 
scene of the Boulevards in this fashionable part of Paris, with 
its well-dressed crowds, seated in groups or promenading, its 
verdant trees, and thousand lights, forms in summer a most 
enchanting picture. Restaurants have rooms called cabinets 
de societe, in which a party may dine in private. Besides 
the principal restaurateurs, where the dinner is a la carte, 
there are other houses where dinners are served for a fixed 
sum, from 2 francs, including wine. In most parts of Paris, 
a dinner may be had for 40, 35, and even 30 sous. The last 
of these prices will procure soup, 2 dishes at choice, a dessert, 
bread, and a modicum of wine. Traiteurs, or petty restaura¬ 
teurs, send out dishes, or dinners ready dressed, to order. A 
family in lodgings, had better bargain with the traiteur for 
a number of dishes at a certain hour. After dinner Parisians 
go to a cafe, to take a demi-tasse of coffee, and a petit verre 
deliqueur, instead of sitting over their wine. For a list of the 
best dishes, see Preface. The principal restaurants are Trois 

(4) Formerly privileged persons alone could keep eating- 
houses in Paris; but in 1765 a cook prepared a room for re¬ 
freshments, placing over the door the following parody of a 
passage in Scripture : “ Venite ad me omnes qui stomacho Jabo- 
ratis, et ego restaurabo vos.” This attempt was successful, and 
since 1789 , these establishments have increased every year, and 
are now about 2,63o in number. 


14 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Freres Provencaux, (Palais Royal,) Maison Doree, and Cafe 
Anglais, boulevard des Italiens. See Directory. 

CAFES.—The first cafe in Paris was established by ail Ar¬ 
menian in 1697, and was greatly frequented. These establish¬ 
ments multiplied rapidly under Louis XV., and became cele¬ 
brated as the favourite resort of distinguished individuals. At 
present they are to be found in every quarter, and justly rank 
among the most remarkable features of this capital, being 
usually decorated with unrivalled costliness and splendour. It 
is difficult to fancy anything more tastefully brilliant than 
the coffee-rooms on the western boulevards, and other fashion¬ 
able parts of the town. When lighted up at night, the effects 
whether seen from within or without, is perfectly dazzling. 
Chairs and small tables are placed outside, where both sexes 
enjoy the cool of the evening, and witness the animated scene 
around them; wliile within you see yourself reflected by mir¬ 
rors, remarkable for their size and number; you find yourself 
bewildered with the blaze of light. All these places furnish 
coffee, chocolate, tea, ices, liqueurs, &c., and dejeuners a la 
fourchette , either hot or cold; but dinners and suppers are 
generally to be had only at the restaurateurs’. Estami- 
nets , or smoking rooms, are not of course eligible places for 
ladies. The finest cafes are the Grand Cafe and Cafe du 
Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines, Cafe Riche and Cafe 
Cardinal, Boulevard des Italiens. For size and decoration the 
Cafe Parisien, Boulevard St. Martin, Cafe du Globe, and Cafe 
du XIXe Siccle, on the Boulevard dc Strasbourg, are worth 
seeing, but the public frequenting them is not select. For a 
list of other cafes, see Directory. 

READING-ROOMS AND CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.—There 
are many establishments of this kind in Paris; but the most 
eligible and most frequented by Frenchmen and foreign¬ 
ers, particularly Englishmen and Americans, is that of Messrs. 
Galignani and Co., No. 224, rue deRivoli, which is conducted 
on a most extensive scale. The tables are covered with all the 
European, Indian, and American periodicals worthy of 
notice. Ladies also frequent these rooms. The admission is 
by the day, week, or month. The Circulating Library is 
conspicuous for its excellent selection and great number of 
volumes. The subscription is by the week, fortnight or month. 

CERCLES.—These are clubs like those of London; but 
few foreigners belong to them, owing to their short stay in 
Paris. The best are: the French Jockey Club, Boulevard 
des Capucines; the Cercle des Arts. 22, rue de Choiseul; 
Cercle deV Union, 11 , Boulevard de la Madeleine; Cercle Agri¬ 
cole, Quai d’Orsay, opposite the Pont dc la Concorde; the 



MONETARY SYSTEM. 1 5 

Cercle Imperial, under the presidency of Prince Marat, 5, 
rue des Champs Elysees; the Cercle des Chemins de Fer, 
22, rue de la Michodiere ; and Cercle des Deux Afondes, 30, 
rue Grammont. Cricket Club' Office, 3, Hue d Aguesseau, 
H.E. M. Drouyn del’Huys,president. Chess-players frequent 
the Cafe de la Regence, 161, Rue St Honore. Cercle de 
VUnion Artistique, 13, Rue de Grammont Cercle des 
Artistes, Place Vendome ; M. de Nieuwerkerke, President. 

MONETARY SYSTEM.—Accounts are kept in France in 
francs, each of 10 decimes or 100 centimes. The modern gold 
coins are pieces of 100 fr., 50 fr., 20 fr., 10 fr., and 5 fr., 
commonly called “ pieces de cent francs,” “ de cinquante 
francs,’ “ de vingt francs,” (napoleons,) “ de dix francs,” “ de 
cinq francs.” The silver coins are 5 fr. (piece de cent sous), 
2 fr. (piece de quarante sous), 1 fr. (piece de vingt sous,) 
%fr. (piece de dix sous), and pieces of 20 centimes. 
The copper coins are 2 sous, 1 sou, and 2 and 1 
centime. (1) In the monetary system of France, (2) 
the coins, if accurately minted, may serve also as weights. 
Thus, lofr. in copper (new coinage), 200 in standard silver, 
or 3100 in standard gold, weigh 1 kilogramme; the piece 
of 1 fr. weighs 5 grammes, and any other piece in the same 
proportion. The notes issued by the Bank of France are 
of 50, 100, 500, 1000, and 5000 francs, convertible 

into silver at the Bank, at par, except 2 sous for the bag ; 
or, at a small charge into silver or gold, at the money¬ 
changers’. (3) In reckoning for 2 5 sous they say 1 fr. 2 5c.; 
for 30 sous, 1 fr. 50 c., etc. The gold and silver coins con¬ 
tain 1-1 oth alloy ; but small silver coin only contains 0.7 9 
of the pure metal. The value of the pound sterling, which is 
25 fr. at par, is given in the following table :— 

(1) All (he copper money of France, amounting to 5i,54i ,096f., 
and weighing 4 , 860,461 k>los., has been recoined since 1 852 . 
The new coin contain 95 parts ofcopper, 4 of tin, and 1 of zinc. 

( 2 ) Before 1795 accounts were kept in livres, of 20 sous, or 240 
deniers. The louis was rated at 24 livres ; the large ecu , at 6 ; 
and the petit ecu , at 3 livres. There were also pieces of 30 and 
of 15 sous, of base metal. There are mints at Bordeaux, 
Lille, Lyons, Marseilles, Rouen, and Strasbourg, all under the 
authority of the “ Commission des Monnaies.” 

(3) Statement of gold and silver coin struck from 1795 to 1 867 : 

Gold. Silver. 

1st Republic to 2d Republic 1 ,599,062,seofr. 4,448,156,86ofr. 

2d Empire ((852-1867) . 5,144,579,508 673,829,927 


Totals : 


6,7 4 3,6 4 2,0G8 


5,12 1,986,7 87 




BRITISH CURRENCY REDUCED INTO FRANCS 



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WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 17 

WEIGHTS, MEASURES, &c.—Before the first Revolution 
the poids de marc was the standard weight in France The 
boisseau was the corn-measure, the pinte the measure for li¬ 
quids, the pied, or foot, the unit of length, from which were 
derived the lieue , or league, and the toise, or fathom. Since 
1795 the metrical or decimal system has been introduced, 
and confirmed by a special law, which came into operation 
on the 1st of January, 1840; but although parties using the 
old weights and measures are now liable to prosecution, they 
are still pertinaciously adhered to in several parts of the 
country.—The ten-millionth part of the spherical distance of 
the Pole from the Equator is called a metre, and adopted as 
the unit of length (1); its square and cube are taken as stan¬ 
dards of surface, capacity, and solidity, and the weight of a 
cube of distilled water, at the temperature of 4° centigrade 
(39.2° Fahr.), having its side equal to the hundredth part 
of a metre, is the unit of weight. (2) 

The following tables will be found useful in converting the 
old or new French weights and measures into English ones, 
and vice versa. 


SYSTEMATIC NAMES. FRENCH VALUE. ENGLISH VALUE. 

Measures of length . 

MyriamMre. . . 10,000 metres. 6.2138 miles. 

Kilometre. . . . 1,000 metres. 1093.633 yards. 

5-8lhs of a mile. 

Decametre. ... 10 metres . 10.93633 yards. 

Metre. Fundamental unit of 1.093633 yard, or 

weights and measures. 39,371 inches. 

Decimetre. . . . l-ioth of a metre . 3.937079 inches. 

Centimetre ... l-iootn of a metre . 0.393708 — 

Millimetre. . . . l-ioooth of a metre. . . . 0,03937 — 


(1) The length of the quadrant of the terrestrial meridian was 
ascertained by Delambre and Mechain, by measuring an 
arc of the meridian between the parallels of Dunkirk and Bar¬ 
celona. 

(2) There was also a mixed system between the new and old, 
called the systeme usuel, having the metre as the standard, but 
with binary divisions. As this has also been abolished by law, 
we need only mention that the toise usuelle (of 2 metres) equal¬ 
led 6% feet English, and the aune 3 feet n% inches English, 
with their several subdivisions into inches and lines. The bois • 
seau usuel was % hectolitre, or 0.35474 bushel English. The h- 
tron was 2 1-19 English pints. Apothecaries used to compound, 
by the systeme usuel, and diamonds were weighed by carats, each 
of 2.01 decigrammes, or 3 1-10 grains, English. The old pound 
weight of France, still spoken of, but now never used, was 1 lb. 
1 oz. 10 dr. English and the quintal metrique, now in use, Is 
1 cwt. 3 qrs. 24 lb. 8 oz. 


2 










18 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

{SYSTEMATIC NAMES. FRENCH VALUE. , ENGLISH VALUE. 


Superficial Measures. 


Hectare. 10,000 square metres. . . 2.471143 acres. 

Are. 100 — ... 0.098845 rood. 

Cenliare. 1 — ... i.i96033sq yd (1) 

Measures of Capacity. 

Kilolitre. 1 cubic metre, or 1000 cu- 220.09668 gal. 

bic decimetres. 

Hectolitre. 100 cubic decimetres. . . . 22.00967 gallons. 

Decalitre. 10 cubic decimetres. 2.20097 — 

Litre. 1 cubic decimetre. 0.220097 gallon, 

ori.760773pint. 

D6cilitre. 1-1oth cubic decimetre. . . 0.17 608 pint. 


Stere . . , 
Decistero 


Measures of Solidity. 

1 cubic metre. 35.31658 c. feet. 

l-ioth cubic metre. 3.53166 c. feet. 


Weights. 


Millier. 

Quintal. 

Kilogramme. . . . 


Hectogramme . . . 
Decagramme. . . . 

Gramme. 

Decigramme. 

Centigramme. . . . 
v V\\ligramme. 


1000 Idl., or 1 French ton. 

100 kilogrammes. 

1,000 grammes; weight of 1 
cubic decimetre of water. 

100 grammes . . .. 

10 grammes. 

Weight of 1 cubic centi¬ 
metre of water. 

1-1 oth of gramme. 

1-1 ooth of gramme. . . . 
1 - 1 ,oooth of gramme. . . 


19.7 cwt. 

1.97 cwt. 

2.6793 lb. troy 
or 2.2046 lb. 

avoirdupois. 
3.2 ounces troy. 
6.4 3 penny¬ 
weights troy, 
15.433 gr. troy. 

1.5433 gr. troy. 
0 . 1 5433gr. troy. 
o.oi544gr.troy. 


Z may assist the memory to observe that the terms for 
multiplying are Greek, and those for dividing, Latin. 


VALUE OF OLD FRENCH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

4 livre : 2 marcs; 16 oz.; 128 gros; 9216 grains; 0,4895 kilog.; 
7555 gr. English. 

l muid : 12 setiers; 144 boisseaux; 18.72 hectolitres: 53.124 
English bushels. 

4 muid : 144 quarts; 288 pintes; 268.128 litres; 70.8192 English 
gallons. 

4 foot : 12 inches; 14 4 lines; 1728 points; 0.32484 metres; 
12.7893 inches English ; 

4 aune de Paris : 1.1888 metre; 46.85 Eng. inches. 

4 toise : 6 French feet; 1.949 metre; 6.395 Eng. feet. 

4 lieue : 2 miles Fr.; 2000 toises; 2 miles, 1 furlong, 28 pol. Eng- 

4 ( 1 ) The square yard is 0.836097 of a square metre. 1 




























19 


WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 

ENGLISH TROY WEIGHT IN GRAMMES. 

Grain (1-24II1 of pennyweight) . . 0.065 gramme. 

Pennyweight (i-2oth of ounce). . . 1.555 _ 

Ounce (1-1 2 lh of pound troy). . . 31.103 grammes. 

Imperial pound troy.0.373238 kilogramme. 


FRENCH FEET INTO ENGLISH FEET AND INCHES, (l) 


Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

English 

Fr. 

English 

Fr. 

F.nelish 

Inch. 

Inch. 

Feet 

Feet. 

Inch. 

Feet. 

Feet. 

Inches. 

F ect. 

Feet. 

Inches. 

1 

1.07 

1 

1 

0.79 

10 

10 

7.89 

100 

106 

6.91 

2 

2.13 

2 

2 

1.58 

20 

21 

3.78 

200 

213 

1.84 

3 

3.20 

3 

3 

2.37 

30 

31 

1 1.68 

300 

319 

8.76 

4 

4.26 

4 

4 

3.1 G 

40 

42 

7.57 

400 

426 

3.68 

5 

5.33 

5 

5 

3.95 

50 

53 

3.46 

500 

532 

10.59 

6 

6.40 

6 

6 

4.74 

60 

63 

11.35 

700 

746 

0.42 

7 

7.46 

7 

7 

5.52 

70 

74 

7.24 

900 

959 

2.27 

9 

9.59 

8 

8 

6.31 

80 

85 

3.14 

1,000 

1,065 

9.19 

11 

11.72 

9 

9 

7.10 

90 

95 

11.03 

2,000 

2,131 

6.36 


FRENCH METRES INTO ENGLISH FEET AND INCHES. 


MCt. 

F. Inch. 

MCt. 

F. 

Inch. 

Met. 

F. 

Inch. 

Met. 

Feet. 

Inch. 

0.01 

0 0.394 

0.75 

2 

4.532 

10 

32 

9.708 

500 

1640 

5 395 

0.05 

0 1.970 

1 

3 

3.371 

20 

65 

7.416 

1000 * 

* 3280 

10.790 

0.10 

0 3.937 

2 

6 

6.741 

30 

98 

5.124 

1609. 

31 5280 

1 mile. 

0.20 

0 7.874 

3 

9 

10.112 

40 

131 

2.832 

4000 s 

1312 3 

7.160 

0.25 

0 9.844 

4 

1 3 

1.483 

50 

164 

0.539 

5000 

16404 

5.950 

0.50 

1 6.688 

5 

16 

4.854 

100 

328 

1.079 

10000 8 

32808 

11.900 


(') One kilometre. ( s ) One league. ( s ) One myriamfttre. 


FRENCH KILOMETRES AND MYRIAMETRES INTO ENGLISH MILES, &C. 


Kilom. 

English Miles. 

Furlongs. Y r ds. 

Kilom. 

English Miles. 

Furlongs. Yds. 

1 

0 

4 

213 

8 

4 

7 

164 

2 

1 

1 

206 

9 

5 

4 

157 

3 

1 

6 

199 

lmyria. 6 

1 

156 

4 

2 

3 

192 

2 

— 12 

3 

92 

5 

3 

0 

185 

3 

— 18 

5 

10 

6 

3 

5 

178 

4 

— 24 

6 

160 

7 

4 

3 

171 

5 

— 31 

0 

90 


FRENCH L1EUES DE POSTE INTO ENGLISH MILES AND YARDS. 


L. 

Mis. Yds. 

L. 

Mis. 

Yds. 

L. 

Mis. 

Yds. 

L. Mis. 

Yds. 

1 

2 

743.061 

6 

14 

938.366 

20 

48 

781.221 

70 

169 

974.275 

2 

4 

1486.122 

7 

1 6 

1681.427 

30 

72 

1171.832 

80 

193 

1364.886 

3 

7 

469.183 

8 

19 

664.488 

40 

96 

1 562.443 

90 

217 

1755.496 

4 

9 

1212.244 

9 

21 

1407.549 

50 

121 

193.053 

too 

242 

386.107 

5 

12 

195.305 

10 

24 

390.610 

60 

145 

583.664 

200 

484 

772.214 


( 1 ) To reduce French toises into English feel and inches, re¬ 
duce the toises into French feet at 6 feet per toise, and then ap¬ 
ply the above table. An aune de Paris is 3.658 French feet, 3 
feet io.69 inches English, and 1 . 1 88 French metres. A m6tre 
is 3.0784 French feet. 












20 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

In the following six tables the tens, hundreds, &c., are 
found by carrying the decimal point one place further to the 
right for the tens, two for the hundreds, &c. The intermediate 
numbers are found by addition. Thus 35G hectolitres will be 
found to amount to 979.429G bushels. 


FRENCH KILOGRAMMES INTO ENGLISH POUNDS ( Avoirdupois ). 


Kilog. 

Eng. pds. 

Kilog. Eng. pds. 

Kilog. 

Eng. pds. 

Kilog. 

Eng. pds. 

1 

2.2046 

4 

8.8184 

7 

15.4322 

10 

22.0464 

2 

4.4092 

5 

11.0230 

8 

17.6368 

100 

220.4642 

3 

6.6138 

6 

13.2276 

9 

19.8414 

1,000 

2204.6428 


FRENCH POUNDS INTO 

ENGLISH POUNDS ( Avoirdupois ). 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 


Pounds. 

Fr. 

Eng 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Eng. 


Fr. 

Eng. 

1 

1.0792 

4 

4.3167 

7 

7.5541 


10 

10.7716 

2 

2.1583 

5 

5.3958 

8 

8.6333 


100 

107.7164 

3 

3.2375 

6 

6.4750 

9 

9.7125 


1,000 

1077.1644 



FRENCH LITRES INTO 

ENGLISH 

GALLONS. 


Lit. 

Gall. 

Lit. 

Gall. 

Lit. 

Gall. 


Lit. 

Gall. 

1 

0.2201 

4 

0.8804 

7 

1.5407 


10 

2.2010 

2 

0.4402 

5 

1.1005 

8 

1.7608 


100 

22.0097 

3 

0.6603 

6 

1.3206 

9 

1.9809 


1,000 

220.C967 


FRENCH HECTOLITRES INTO ENGLISH BUSHELS. 


I led. 

Bush. 

Hect. 

Bush. 

Hect. 

Bush. 

llect. 

Bush. 

1 

2.7512 

4 

1 1.0048 

7 

19.2584 

10 

27.5120 

2 

5.5024 

5 

13 7560 

8 

22.0097 

100 

275.1208 

3 

8.2536 

6 

16.5072 

9 

24.7609 

1,000 

2751.2085 


FRENCH ARPENS INTO ENGLISH ACRES. 


Arp. 

Acres. 

Arp. 

Acres. 

Arp. 

Acres. 

Arp. 

Acres. 

1 

1.0430 

4 

4.1721 

7 

7.3012 

10 

10.4303 

2 

2.0861 

5 

5.2151 

8 

8.3442 

100 

104.3026 

3 

3.1291 

6 

6.2581 

9 

9.3872 

1,000 

1043.0262 


FRENCH HECTARES INTO ENGLISH ACRES. 


Hect. 

Acres. 

Hcct. 

Acres. 

Hect. 

Acres. 

Hect. 

Acres. 

1 

2.4711 

4 

9.8846 

7 

17.2980 

10 

24.7114 

2 

4.9423 

5 

12.3557 

8 

19.7691 

100 

247.1 143 

3 

7.4134 

6 

14.8268 

9 

22.2403 

1,000 

2471.1430 


In the French and English barometrical scales, 

704 millimetres equal 26 Fr. inches or 27.7 Eng. in. nearly. 


731 

— 

27 

— 

28.8 

— 

756 

— 

28 

— 

29.8 

— 

779 

— 

29 

— 

30.7 

— 


In the thermometrical scales, the freezing point, marked 32° in 
Fahrenheit’s scale, is marked 0° iu the Centigrade, or French 


























ENGLISH DUTIES. 21 

scale, and in Reaumur’s. The boiling point, which is 212° in 
Fahrenheit’s, is 100° in the Centigrade, and 80° in Reaumur’s 
scale. The range between Fahrenheit’s freezing and boiling 
points being therefore 180°, it follows that 5° Centigrade= 
9° Fahrenheit=4° Reaumur. 

A number of Centigrade or Reaumur’s degrees having by 
this rule been changed into Fahrenheit’s, 32° must be added 
to the result for all temperatures above freezing point; the 
result must be subtracted from 32°, for those below. 


CENTIGRADE AND REAUMUR’S THERMOMETRIC SCALES TURNED INTO 

FAHRENHEIT’S. 


C. 


R. 


F. 


c. 

R 

• 

F. 


c. 

R 


100 

80. 

0 

212 

.0 

69 

55 

2 

99 

79 

2 

210 

.2 

68 

54. 

4 

98 

78. 

4 

208 

.4 

67 

53. 

6 

97 

77. 

6 

206 

.6 

66 

52. 

8 

96 

76. 

8 

204 

8 

65 

52. 

0 

95 

76. 

0 

203 

0 

64 

51. 

2 

94 

75. 

2 

201 

.2 

63 

50. 

4 

93 

74. 

4 

199 

4 

62 

49. 

6 

92 

73. 

6 

197 

6 

61 

48. 

8 

91 

72. 

8 

195 

8 

60 

48. 

0 

90 

72. 

0 

1 94 

0 

59 

47. 

2 

89 

71. 

2 

192 

2 

58 

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4 

88 

70. 

4 

190 

4 

57 

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6 

87 

69. 

6 

188 

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8 

86 

68 . 

8 

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0 

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4 

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79 

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8 

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0 

70 

56. 

0 

158. 

0 

39 

31. 

2 


F. 


c. 

R 

• 

F. 


156. 

2 

38 

30 

.4 

100 

.4 

154. 

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37 

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.6 

98 

.6 

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6 

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.8 

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.8 

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84 

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2 

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82 

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1 36. 

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6 

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.8 

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8 

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75 

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2 

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71 

.6 

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6 

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.8 

69 

.8 

123. 

8 

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0 

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66 

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2 

18 

14 

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64 

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4 

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62 

.6 

116. 

6 

16 

12 

.8 

60 

.8 

114. 

8 

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.0 

59 

.0 

113. 

0 

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11 

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57 

.2 

111. 

2 

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55 

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6 

11 

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105. 

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.0 

50 

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104. 

0 

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7 

.2 

48 

.2 

102 . 

2 

8 

6 

.4 

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.4 


7 

5.6 

44.6 

6 

4.8 

42.8 

5 

4.0 

41.0 

4 

3.2 

39.2 

3 

2.4 

37.4 

2 

1.6 

35.6 

1 

0.8 

33.8 

0 

0.0 

32.0 

— 1 

— 0.8 

30.2 

— 2 

— 1.6 

28.4 

— 3 

— 2.4 

26.6 

— 4 

— 3.2 

24.8 

— 5 

— 4.0 

23.0 

— 6 

— 4.8 

21.2 

— 7 

— 5.6 

19.4 

— 8 

— 6.4 

17.6 

— 9 

— 7.2 

15.8 

—10 

— 8.0 

14.0 

— 11 

— 8.8 

12.2 

—12 

— 9.6 

10.4 

— 13 

—10.4 

8.6 

—14 

— 11.2 

6.8 

— 15 

— 12.0 

5.0 

— 16 

—12.8 

3.2 

—17 

— 13.6 

1.4 

— 18 

— 14.4 

0.4 

— 19 

— 15.2 

— 2.2 

—20 

—16.0 

— 4.0 

—21 

—16.8 

— 5.8 

—22 

—17.6 

— 7.6 

—23 

— 18.4 

— 9.4 


DUTIES ON ARTICLES IMPORTED INTO ENGLAND.— 
Regulations as to Passengers Luggage As soon as all 
the luggage is landed, passengers are called in according to 
the list forwarded by the captain. Passengers must see that 
their names, are properly inserted in the list. A passenger 





22 GENERAL INFORMATION. 


having only a small carpet bag is allowed to take it on shore 
after examination by the officers who come on hoard. All 
merchandize brought with luggage is liable to seizure unless 
duly reported as such by the captain of the vessel .—Caution : 
If any person, on being questioned by an officer, whether he 
or she has any foreign goods upon his or her person, or in his 
or her possession, deny the same, and any be discovered, such 
shall be forfeited, and such person forfeit treble the value of such 
goods. False declarations subject parties to a fine of £100. 
Under the present free trade, scarcely anything that is likely to 
form part of a tourist’s luggage is liable to duty. The only 
duties worth recording (and to which, when marked with an 
asterisk, Five per cent, must be added) are the following:— 


Boobs printed prior to 1 so 1 , free. 

— French or German, printed in 
or since isoi, free. 

— admitted under treaties of in¬ 
ternational copyright, or if of 
or from any British posses¬ 
sion, free. 

Any books wherein the copyright 
shall he subsisting, first printed in 
the United Kingdom, and reprinted 
in any other country, are pro¬ 
hibited to be imported into the Bri¬ 
tish possessions, provided the pro¬ 
prietor of such copyright shall liaye 
given due notice to the Customs. 

Foreign books and maps having once 
paid duty, or been purchased in Eng¬ 
land, arc delivered free, on a declara¬ 
tion being made. 

Brandy. See Spirits. 

Cards, playing, per dozen 
packs, 3s. 9d. 

Cigars, see Tobacco. 

Clocks and watches, free. 

— or watches of any metal, im¬ 
pressed with any mark or 
stamp, appearing to he or to 
represent any legal British 
assay, mark, or stamp, or pur¬ 
porting, by any mark or ap¬ 
pearance, to be the manufac¬ 
ture of the United Kingdom, 
prohibited. 

Cologne-water, each flask (3o 
not more than a gallon), 6d. 
Confectionary of sugar, bon¬ 
bons, &c., (he lb., id. 
Liqueurs. See Spirits. 

Paper hangings, painted or 
stained paper or llock-paper, 
free, 


—Letter paper, free. 

Pictures, viz. ; Oil Paintings and 
Photographs, free. 

Plate of gold, the oz., troy, ns. 

— of silver, do., is. 6d. 

— battered, free. 

Plums, dried, 7s. perewt. 

Prints and drawings, plain or 
coloured, free. 

— admitted under treaties of 
international copyright, free- 

Spirits, or strong waters, not 
being sweetened or mixed 
with any article, so that, the 
degree of strength thereof 
cannot be ascertained by 
Sykes’s Hydrometer, for every 
gallon of the strength of proof 
by such Hydrometer, and so 
in proportion for any greater 
or Jess strength of proof, and 
for any greater or less quan¬ 
tity than a gallon, viz.:— 

Brandy, per gal. o 10 5 

Geneva, do., .0105 

Rum, of and from 
any foreign coun¬ 
try being that of its 
production . . 0 10 2 

— from any other 
country . . 0 10 5 

Tafia, of and from 
any colony in 
France . . . 0 10 2 

Unenumerated , 0 10 5 




FRENCH 

Other spirits, being sweetened 
or mixed so that the degree 
of strength cannot be ascer¬ 
tained as aforesaid, per gal., 
1 4s. 

— perfumed, to be used as per¬ 
fumery only, per gal., i4s. 

Spirits remains of passengers’ stores, 
unexpended on the voyage, are admit¬ 
ted when less than a pint: or half 
a pint of eau de Cologne, or other cor¬ 
dial water, or anv medicated or per¬ 
fumed spirits or liqueurs. 

Tea, per lb. . .006 

‘Tobacco unmanufac¬ 
tured, per lb. .030 

— snuff,per lb. . o 4 c 

— cigars, per lb. . o 5 o 

Duties are received upon less than 

31b. of cigars, but anv greater quantity 
requires a petition to the Board of 
Customs to be admitted. 


DUTIEF# 23 

Varnish, containing any quan¬ 
tity of wine or spirits, 12 s. 
per gallon. 

Wine containing 4 5 per cent, 
and upwards of proof spirit, 
as verified by Sykes’s Hydro¬ 
meter, is deemed to be mixed 
spirits, and charged with duty 
as such. 

— do., making 2 g deg. o t o 

— do., making 42 deg. o 2 6 

— if imported in bottles, 
and containing less 

than 4 2 deg. . .026 

An additional duty of 3d. per 
gallon for every degree of 
strength beyond 42 deg. 


DUTIES on Articles imported from England into 
France. —Extracted from the new official tariff: 

Plate and jewellery for the use of travellers, free, if nol 
exceeding the weight of 5 hectogrammes. Parties going to 
reside in France, and wishing to take their furniture, linen, 
plate, <kc., must apply to the Director-General, at Paris, sending 
a statement of the articles, and, if admitted, generally pay 10 
per cent, on the value. Numerous other articles, lately abso • 
lutely prohibited, even when a part of passengers’ luggage, 
are now admitted, and are charged with a duty of 30 to 33 
per cent. The same favour is extended to portions, or whole 
pieces which have not or have scarcely been made up. In 
those cases, the condition and supposed intentions of such passen¬ 
gers as may have brought them are taken into consideration. 
According to the Customs’ regulations, every thing that is 
new, or not used, either made or not made up, must he de¬ 
clared before the examination of the luggage, under penalties 
of seizure and fine. But the officers generally tax those things 
not duly declared, or give them back for re-exportation. 

The regulations as to passengers’ luggage are much the same 
as on landing in England. 


Beer, ale, or porter, 2 fr. 4oc. the 
hectolitre (about 100 bottles), 
in addition to the internal tax. 

Books, in dead or foreign lan¬ 
guages printed in England, 
free. 

Books in French, printed in 
{Inland, free, 


Bools and shoes, 10 percent, ad 
valorem. 

Boxes, carved wood and ivory, 
4 0 per cent, ad valorem. 
Bronze, manufactured, 20 fr. 
per 100 kil. 

Calicoes, bleached, 15 per cent. 
ad valorem per 1 00 kil. 




GENERAL INFORMATION. 


24 

— do., unbleached, 15 do. 

— do., dyed, 25 cent, above 15 
per cent. do. 

Cards, 15 per cent, ad valorem, 
besides 48 cent, for each pack. 

Carpets, 32 fr. per 100 kilog. 

Carriages, lo per cent, ad val. 

Cheese, hard, 10 fr. per 100 kil. 

Clocks, 5 per cent, ad valorem. 

Coal, l fr. 20 c. per ton. 

Cotton manufactures. See Cali- 

C06S 

Earthenware, fine, 20 per cent. 
ad val. 

Embroidery, 10 per cent, ad 
valorem. 

Engravings,lithographed prints, 
maps, charts, &c., free. 

Frames, (picture,) 10 per cent. 

Furniture of all sorts, lOper cent. 

Glass, for domestic use, 10 per 
cent, ad val. 

Gloves, 5 per cent, ad val. 

Horses, 25 fr. (£i). 

— Colts, 15 fr. ( 12 s.) 

Hardware, iron, for domestic 

use, i 4 fr. per too kil. 

— do., cutlery, 20 per cent, ad 
valorem. 

— do., copper, brass, or bronze,, 
20 fr. per 1 O 0 kil. 

Jewels, set in gold, 5 fr. (4s.) 
per kil. 

Lace, cotton or linen, 5 per cent. 

Lace, silk, free. 

Linen, for personal or house¬ 
hold use, free, unless in large 
quantity; in such case a per¬ 
mit must be obtained from 
the Director of the Customs. 


Liquors iso fr. (£e) per hecto¬ 
litre (ioo bottles). 

Musical instruments, loper cent. 
ad val. 

Optical and mathematical in¬ 
struments, 10 per cent, ad 
valorem. 

Paper, of all sorts, 8 fr. per ioo 
kil. 

Plate, new or used, 5 fr. (4s.) per 
kil. 

Plated ware, lfr.per kil. 

Porcelain, 10 per cent, ad val. 

Silk goods, all silk, free. 

— figured, or brocaded, 10 per 
cent, ad valorem. 

— ditto, with gold and silver, 
12 fr. (9s. 8d ) per kil. 

— mixed with thread, 3 fr. 
per kil. 

Skins, varnished or morocco, 
80 fr. per ioo kil. 

— otherwise prepared, 10 fr. 
per ioo kil. 

Steam-engines, for machinery, 
10 fr. per i oo kil. 

— for locomotives, 15 fr. per 
i 00 kil. 

— for ships, 20 fr. per do. 

Tea, from China, imported in 

French boitoms, 40c. per 
kilog. 

— otherwise, 1 fr. (lOd.) per 
kilog. 

Wine, by sea, 30 cent, per hec¬ 
tolitre, (ioo bottles.) 

—sherry, madeira,malaga, &c., 
according to the quantity of 
proof spirit that it contains. 

Woollens, 15 percent, ad val. 


(KB&PWSffl a* 

PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 

GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION.—The Observatory of Paris 
is situated in 48° 50' 49" north lat., and 2° 20' 15" east long, 
from Greenwich; height above, the level of tlie sea 4 199 feeU 




GEOLOGICAL CONSTITUTION. 25 

The longest day is 16 hrs. 7 min., and the shortest 8 hrs. 
10 min. Its distance from the following capitals is :_ 


From. 

Hours. 

Miles. 

From. 

Hours. 

Miles. 

Amsterdam. 

. 16 

298 

Madrid. . . . 

. 72 

775 

Berlin. . . . 

. 32 

593 

Milan. . . . 

. 47 

518 

Brussels. , . 

. 6 

189 

Munich . . . 

. 36 

460 

Constantinople. 

. 288 

1574 

Naples. . . . 

. 108 

1148 

Dresden. . . 

. 34 

630 

Rome. . . . 

. 96 

925 

Frankfort. . . 

. 18 

339 

Stockholm . 

. 96 

1141 

Geneva. . . 

. 28 

315 

St. Petersburg. 

. 107 

1425 

Hamburg. . . 

. 31 

535 

Turin.... 

. 32 

438 

Lisbon. . . . 

. 84 

1104 

Venice. . . . 

. 54 

593 

London . . . 

. 11 

254 

Vienna . . . 

. 60 

678 


The circumference of Paris which, since the 1st of January, 
I860, extends to the fortifications, is 33,67 8 metres, (of 
which 9,405 are on the left bank) or 21 miles; its area is 
78,020,000 square metres, or 19,271 acres. It measures 
8,900 metres, or 9,7 00 yards, from North to South, and 
11,300 metres, or 12,317 yards, from East to West, (l) 

CLIMATE.—The maximum average heat is 34° Centigrade; 
in 1802 it rose to 37°. The average maximum of cold is 9° 
below zero; in 1795 it fell to 22°. The mean temperature is 
13%° above zero. The greatest height of the barometer is 28% 
inches, the least 27 % inches, and the mean 28 inches. The 
average quantity of rain per annum is 20% cubic inches per 
square inch. The prevailing winds are S.W. and N.E. The 
climate is variable, but not unfavourable to health; snow does 
not lie long, and fogs are not frequent. 

GEOLOGICAL CONSTITUTION.—The city lies in a vast 
plain, 60 metres above the level of the sea, and watered by 
the Seine. The Paris basin, which has the great chalk forma¬ 
tion for its lowest stratum exposed by natural denudations, 
comprises the following geological beds in an ascending order : 
—plastic clay; marine limestone (calcaire grossier, building- 
stone) ; siliceous limestone (fresh-water); gypseous strata alter¬ 
nating with marls, full of fossil remains and freshwater shells; 
sands; mill-stone beds; and gravel. Two of the strata of 
the general series are famous in commerce—one for furnishing 
the stone of which Paris is built, the other for the fine gypsum, 
from which the Plaster of Paris is made. (2) This plain, though 
not barren, is not remarkable for an exuberant fertility; the 
manure, however, furnished by the capital supplies any natural 

(i) The surface of the whole department of the Seine com¬ 
prises 47,000 hectares. 

( 3 ) See Cuvier, and G. Cuvier and BrongniarL 











26 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

deficiency of the soil, and the lighter species of grain, vegetables, 
fruit trees, and vines, nourish here in perfection. (1) 

RIVERS.—The Seine, which traverses the capital from S.E. 
to N.W., rises in the forest of Chanceaux, 2 leagues from St. 
Seine, in the department of the Cote-d’Or. It receives, besides 
smaller streams, the waters of the Yonne, the Aube, and the 
Marne, before it enters Paris; and beyond it after collecting 
the tributary streams of the Oise, the Eure, and other smaller 
rivers, falls into the ocean between Havre and Honfleur. The 
direct distance from its source to its mouth is 70 leagues. In 
the interior of Paris its length is about 2 leagues. Its breadth 
at the Pont d’Austerlitz is about 166 metres, at the PontNeuf 
263 metres, and at the Pont d’lena 136 metres. The mean 
velocity of the water is 20 inches per second. In summer 
the Seine is very low, and often fordable; during the winter 
it rises high, and flows with much impetuosity. When the 
river rises more than 6 metres above its bed, parts of the 
town and adjacent country are liable to be inundated. 

The Seine communicates with the Loire by the canals of 
Briare and Orleans; with the Saone by the canal de Bour¬ 
gogne; and with the Somme and the Scheldt by the canal of St. 
Quentin. Modern improvements in ship-building now enable 
sea-going steamers to reach the ports of the Seine at Paris. The 
navigation is impeded when the waters are unusually low or 
high, or when the thermometer falls to 1 o° below zero, at which 
temperature the river freezes. In its course through Paris 
the Seine now forms two islands. The lie St. Louis, about 
1,800 feet long, has been built on since the time of Louis XIII. 
The other, the original seat of Paris, is still called the lie de 
la Cite; it formerly terminated at the rue de Harlay, but was 
enlarged under Henry IV., by annexing two small islands to it. 

The little stream of the Bievrc, or the Gobelins, as it is 
sometimes called, rises between Bouriers and Guyencourt, near 
Versailles, and, after a course of about 8 leagues, falls into the 
Seine above the Jardin des Plantes; it is not navigable, nor 
is its water wholesome to drink. Several mills are worked by 
it, and it is excellent for dyeing and tanning; it also serves as 
a city drain, and has its bed lined with masonry. 

(l) The last official returns of the area, cultivation, &c., of 
the department of the Seine are as follows :—area, 24 square 
leagues. Arable land, 72,558 acres; meadow land, 3,8 n acres; 
vineyards, 4,876 acres; woods, 3,344 acres; wastelands, 615 
acres; forest land, 5,663 acres; roads and public ways, 6,543 
acres (their length is 150 miles); houses, 47,804 ; mills, 77 ; 
manufactories, 450 ; proprietors, 67 , 918 . The annual cost of 
keeping the roads ofthe department in repair is about 350,00 fj\ 
The value of land in all France is 83,744,ooo,ooofr. 


CANALS. 27 

CANALS.—The canals on the north of Paris are all branches 
of the same undertaking for bringing the waters of the river 
Ourcq to the capital. Projected in 1799, the works were not 
completed until 1890. They convey water to a spacious basin 
for the supply of the inhabitants, as also for a navigable canal 
from the Seine at St. Denis to the basin, and from the basin 
to the Seine at the Arsenal. The branches of these works go 
by the names of the Canal de VOurcq, Bassin de la Villette, 
Canal St. Martin, Care del’Arsenal, and Canal St. Denis. (1) 

The Canal de VOurcq joins the Ourcq heyond Mareuil, 10 
leagues from Paris, and, after collecting divers streams, falls 
into the Bassin de la Villette. It furnishes 13,500 inches, 
or 2G0,820 cubic metres every 24 hours, for the locks 
on the two canals St. Denis and St. Martin, and for the sup¬ 
ply to the public fountains, markets, and houses. The de¬ 
clivity is 8 feet per 1000, the fall 1 foot per minute ; length 
24 leagues; breadth between Mareuil and Lizy 31 feet; thence 
to the Bassin de la Villette 11 feet. It cost 25,000,000 fr. 

The Bassin de la Villette, beyond the Boulevard of that name, 
begun in 1800, and finished in 1809, forms a parallelogram of 
740 yards by 77, and receives the waters of the Canal de 
rOurcq at the northern extremity. It supplies water to the 
Aqueduc de Ceinture and the Canal St. Martin. 

The Canal St. Martin is 3,467 yards by 7, and connects 
the basin with the Gare de PArsenal, Place de la Bastille and 
is now partly arched over. It cost 14,200,000 fr. 

The Gare de 1’Arsenal, in part formed of the moat of the 
Bastille, is 051 yards by 04. It can receive upwards of 80 
barges, leaving the middle clear for a passage. 

The Canal St. Denis begins near St. Denis, where the small 
river Bouillon empties itself into the Seine, and terminates at 
the Canal de l’Ourcq, 900 yards beyond the Bassin de la Vil¬ 
lette. Its length is 7,333 yards. It cost 8,000,000 frs. 

AQUEDUCTS.— Aqueduc d’Arcueil. The Romans erected an 
aqueduct over a valley, south of Paris, for the conveyance of 
water to the Palais dcs Thermes, from Rongis, at 4 leagues 
distance. Part of this ancient construction, consisting of two 
arches substantially built, still exists, near the modern aque¬ 
duct at Arcueil, which was built after the designs of Dcs- 
brosses, and finished in 1024. This magnificent aqueduct 
extends across the valley of Arcueil upon 25 arches, 72 feet in 
height. Its total length, from Arcueil to the reservoir near 
the Observatory, is 18,200 yards. The river generally flows 

(l) Since 1819 the works for bringing water to Paris and dis • 
tributing it, have cost so millions of francs, 



28 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

through two of the central arches. It supplies 36,000 hogs¬ 
heads daily, distributed to 16 fountains, besides those of the 
Luxembourg, Garden of Plants, and several hospitals. 
To see the interior apply to the keeper at Arcucil. 

The Aqueduc de Ceinture extends from the western angle of 
the Bassin de la Villette as far as Monceaux, bounding Paris on 
the north. Its length is 10,300 yards. The first of its 5 
branches supplies the Boulevard St. Martin, the Place Boyale, 
and the Marche des Innocents; the 2d, the faubourgs Mont¬ 
martre and Poissonniere, with the Palais Royal; the 3d, 
the Chaussee d’Antin; the 4th, the Champs Elysees, Tuileries, 
Place de la Concorde, Invalides, and Ecole Militaire. 

Aqueduc de Belleville. —This aqueduct was built under 
Philip Augustus. The first reservoir is situated upon the 
most elevated point of Belleville. At the Barriere de Menil- 
montant is another reservoir, whence the water is distributed 
to the adjoining parts of Paris. It supplies 432 hogsheads. 

Aqueduc de St. Gervais or de Bomainville. —It conducts 
water into a reservoir in the village of Pre St. Gervais, whence 
it is conveyed to Paris by pipes. It existed in the time of St. 
Louis. Supply, 648 hogsheads daily. 

ARTESIAN WELLS.—Of these there are two, viz., that of 
Grenelle (see p. 334) and that of Passy (see p. 190). Three 
more are now being bored at Menilmontant, La Chapelle, and 
at the top of the Butte aux Cailles, near the Gobelins. 

FOUNTAINS.—The necessity of constructing numerous 
fountains in Paris, is owing to the rocky soil on which it is 
built, which renders springs extremely rare. (1) The pur¬ 
chase of water is an ordinary article of domestic expense, 
and the city has new fountains or pipes opened almost every 
day. There are at present 35 monumental and 88 plain foun¬ 
tains, besides 2,053 bornes-fontaines, or water-plugs, which 
are turned on daily, for 3 hours, to purify the streets. More¬ 
over, the City distributes water to 393 state or muncipal es¬ 
tablishments, and to 7388 private individuals. The total length 
of water-pipes laid down is 312,700 metres, or 195 miles. 

RESERVOIRS.—There are nine great reservoirs in Paris, 
viz. at: 9, rue Racine; ill, rue Vaugirard; 16, rue de la 

(i) In the 15 th century there were only 12 public fountains, 
and under Francis I. not more than 1 6 , supplying only 1 inch 
of water, though the population amounted to 300,000 inhabi¬ 
tants. Under Louis XV., when the population was 600,000, 
the pomps at the Pont Neuf and the Pont Notre Dame (now de¬ 
molished) were the principal sources of supply, and furnished 
from 60 to 100 inches daily. The Pompe d feu at Chaillot, and 
that at Gros Caillou afterwards supplied 320 additional iaches. 


QUAYS. 29 

VieilleEstrapade; inrue Cassini, nearthe Observatory; adjoin¬ 
ing the Strasbourg railway-station, and in the newly-annexed 
communes of Monceaux, Montmartre, Belleville, and Passy (1). 

BRIDGES.—The bridges at Paris have little ascent, owing 
to the elevation of the quays above the river. There are 25 
bridges over the Seine, of which 2 are suspension bridges, 4 
of iron and stone, 1 of wood, and the rest of stone. Their 
names, with the date of their construction are marked on black 
slabs at each end. For descriptions of them see the Walks. 

QUAYS.—The hanks of the Seine are skirted with spacious 
quays, forming two lines of road. The most ancient, the Quai 
des Augustins, dates from 1312, and the Quai de la Megisserie, 
from 1369. Under Louis XIII. and XIV. some progress was 
made in the construction of quays in the lie de la Cite, and lie 
St. Louis. Napoleon I extended and improved them con¬ 
siderably. The hanks of the Seine now display about 11 
miles of quays unequalled by any city in Europe. The longest 
are the Quai d’Orsay, 3,123 metres, and the Quai de Valmy, 
3,171 metres. They form large terraces, with macadamised 
carriage-ways and foot-pavements, skirted with trees, lighted 
with gas and furnished with benches. Abreuvoirs, or 
watering-places for horses, are visible in many parts. 

PORTS OR WHARFS.—The principal are the Port de la 
Rapee, for wine and fire-wood; aux Tuiles, for tiles, bricks, 
slates, 6cc.; St. Nicolas, for merchandise from Rouen; d’Or- 
say, for wine, stone, &c.; des Invalides and Austerlitz, for 
fire-wood.—The wood is brought down the river either in 

The water that will pass through an inch conduit [un pouce 
de fontainier) in 24 hours, is 19 cubic metres, or i 9 ,ooo litres. 
At present Paris daily receives 104,000 cubic metres of water 
from the Canal de l’Ourcq; 40,800 from the Seine; 36 ,ooo from 
the aqueduct of the Somme-Soude and Dlmys in Champagne, 
which has cost 38 millions of francs ; 1,600 from Arcueil ; 900 
from the Artesian well of Grenelle, 6,200 from that of Passy, 
and 500 from the Sources du Nord, which are springs on the 
northern side of the Paris basin. The length of the main pipes 
distributing this quantity is 70,000 metres ; the secondary pipes 
form together a length of 242,000 metres. Another large supply 
will shortly be obtained from the Vanne (department of the 
Aube), the waters of which will be brought to Paris at a cost of 
72 millions of francs, the City, however, paying only a fixed 
yearly rent. 

(1) The City receives 5 fr. annually for the daily supply of each 
hectolitre of water from the Canal de l’Ourcq, and 10 fr. for that 
supplied from the Seine, Arcueil, and the Artesian well of Gre¬ 
nelle. The total sums received for this item amounted in 1867 
to 5,552,800 fr. The quantity of water used daily is 15,400,000 
gallons. Seine water is the best. 




30 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

floats or barges; the latter bring the best. Charcoal is so 1 " 1 
on board boats that lie of! the Pont des Arts, lie de la Cite, 1 
St. Louis, and along the Canal de l’Ourcq. (1) 

STREETS AND HOUSES, &c.—Since the annexation o 
the suburban communes there are now in Paris 7 6 avenues j 
92 boulevards; 49 chemins de rondC, forming the military 
road parallel to the line of fortifications; 120 blind alleys; 
244 squares; 47 quays; 2,258 streets; 157 passages, gal¬ 
leries, or courts; 140 cites; and 127 small roads, making 
together a total of 2,922 public or private lines of communi-' 
cation. The number of houses is 68,000, and of shops 
300,000. The total length of foot pavement, or trottoirs , 
is at present 1,300 kilometres, or 812 miles. (2) The 
proprietors of houses are bound to scrape, paint, or white¬ 
wash the fronts of their houses once at least every ten 
years. No rubbish is allowed to be thrown into the streets ex¬ 
cept at night or early in the morning; and every proprietor 
is bound to sweep his half of the road, in front of his walls, 
every morning, and in the summer to water it. 

The stone used for paving the streets and squares is a com¬ 
pact sandstone, found on the outskirts of the Paris Basin. The 

(l) From the departments above Paris, about 12,000 boatj 
arrive annually with fruit, hay, corn, flour, tiles, bricks, wine* 
flax, paving-stones, &c.; besides about 5,000 floats of timber; 
fire-wood, and charcoal. Havre and Rouen send yearly about 
000 boats with glass, cider, wine, brandy, salt, foreign corn, &c. 


( 2 ) Streets were first paved under Philip Augustus. The fol¬ 
lowing table shows their number and surface paved since 1280 . 


Years. 

No. 

Length. 

Surface. 

Cost. 

1280 

310 

35,000 met. 

178,000 sq. met. 

1 fr.per sq.m. 

1638 

510 

160,000 

848,000 

4 

1700 

635 

270,000 

1,672,000 

5 

1800 

997 

350,000 

2,500,000 

7 

1820 

1,400 

380,000 

2,755,000 

8 

1868 

2,663 

900,000 

8,947,679 

10 


The following is the length of a few of the principal streets : 
—rue de l’UmversitS, 2,417 metres; Vaugirard, 2 , 143 ; St. Do¬ 
minique, 2,439 ; Boulcvartde Sebastopol, 3,000; Rue GrenelleSt. 
Germain, 2 , 251 ; Rivoli, 3 , 1 46 ; Boulevard du Prince Eugene 
2,300 metres. From the Arc de l’Etoile to the Place du Trone' 
8,000 metres along the Boulevards. The sweeping the streets 
of Paris costs the City 1 , 500,000 fr. a-year; the contractors 
clear 500,000 fr. by the sale of the rubbish, which, after having 
rotted in pits, is sold at the rate of 3 and 5 fr. per cubic metre 
and produces about 3 , 500,000 fr. ! The number of scavengers 
is 6 , 000 , divided into four legions, they ore paid from 20 to 38 
centimes per hour. They require yearly 7o,ooobrooms. The cost 
to the City for paving andsweeping the streets is about 9 , 820 ,ooofr. 
j)er annum ; foot-pavements, 535,000 fr.; numbering houses ami 


PRIVATE EDIFICES. 31 

>otways are partly made with the lavas and basalts of Vol- 
ic, in Auvergne, and partly with a mixture of asphaltum and 
gravel, which, being poured in a hot fluid state on a level 
plastered surface, hardens immediately. Another plan is to 
spread it in powder, and ram it down, while at a tempera¬ 
ture of 212 deg. Fahr. The cost of lava flagging is about 
13 fr. per square metre; that of bitumen flagging is 8 fr. (1) 

It was not till 1728 that the useful plan was adopted of placing 
the names of streets in a conspicuous situation ; and the names 
then given to them remained unchanged till 17 89. At present 
the quarter and number of the arrondissement are marked on 
the same lava slab which bears the name of the street in 
white letters on a blue ground. Great regularity is observed 
in the numbering of houses. In the streets parallel to the Seine 
the numbers follow the course of the river; in those perpendi¬ 
cular to it or nearly so, the lowest number begins at the ex¬ 
tremity nearest the Seine. In either case the even numbers are 
to the right, and the odd ones to the left of the visitor follow¬ 
ing the course of the river, or turning away from it. 

Before Louis XVI., Paris was lighted during only nine months 
of the year, and then only in the absence of moonlight. That 
monarch decreed its continuance during the whole year. Before 
gas was introduced the city was lighted by lamps suspended 
from ropes hung across the streets. (2) 

PRIVATE EDIFICES.—The vast improvements which 
have been in progress for the last ten years have con- 

names of streets, 80,000 fr. From 1830 to the present time, 
\ 30 new streets have been opened in Paris. The number of 
bouses pulled down in 1 867 was 2,325 : the new ones built 
during the same period amount to 3,8o9. 

(1) The cost of paving-stones is 47ofr. per thousand, and 
that of laying them down from to to 12 fr. per square mfctre. 
The watering of streets costs 500,000 fr. per annum. 

( 2 ) The lighting of Paris, in its present extent, is effected by 
29,ooo gas-burners, at a cost of 3 , 100,000 fr. The length of 
all the gas-pipes is 1,037 kilometres. Oil-lamps are confined 
to the outskirts. During 6 months, all the lamps are lighted, 
and during the other 6 months, a certain number for part 
of the night. The gas is provided by a company chartered 
for 50 years, commencing from 1 856, which furnishes 101 ,000,000 
cubic metres of gas per ann. at the rate of 15 c. per cubic metre 
to the City and Government, and of 30 c. to private persons. 
The number of gas-burners in private establishments is 358, 000 . 
No gas-works (of which there are 10 ) are allowed in the in¬ 
terior of Paris. The Company pays 200,000 fr. a-year to the 
City for the space occupied by the pipes. In 1 906, all the pipes 
and accessories will revert to the City on payment of a sum of 
2,ooo,ooofr. The. number of lamp-lighters is 448. 


32 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

siderably reduced the number of old historical build¬ 
ings for which Paris was so remarkable. The oldest 
parts of Paris, in the immediate neighbourhood of Notre 
Dame, and on the banks of the Seine facing the lie de la 
Cite, still contain many houses that belonged to the bourgeoisie 
of the 13th and 14 th centuries. The most remarkable of the 
royal and noble mansions of the middle ages are the Hotels de 
Sens, and de Clung. The Hotels de Larnoignon, de Sully, 
and de Carnavalet, may be quoted as tine specimens of the 
Italian taste which prevailed under Henry IV. Under 
Louis XIV., the magnificence of the court, and the increased 
extravagance of the nobility, led to the erection of many of 
the finest amongst the old hotels of the faubourg St. Germain. 
The other residences of that quarter date from Louis XV., or 
the early years of his unfortunate successor. A check was 
given to all progress in architecture by the revolution of 17 89, 
till the accession of Napoleon I., who contributed by his example 
to the revival of the taste for elegant mansions. But the prin¬ 
cipal improvements in building have been effected since 1830; 
and in most of the edifices of this period the connoisseur will 
meet with some tasteful application of the Italian or Gothic 
styles. The new streets abound with instances of the kind. 

PALACES. (1)—The kings of France changed the place' of 
their central residence at almost each of the grand distinctive 
epochs of the national history. On the cessation of the Roman 
sway in Gaul, the Palais des Thermes was in all probability 
the residence of the chief magistrate of the country ; and about 
the end of the loth century the Palais de Justice became the 
seat of royalty. Of the former a Hall of Baths alone exists; 
but the Sainte Chapelle may give an idea of the splendour 
that prevailed in the construction of the second. From the time of 
St. Louis, Vincennes, the Bastille, and the Old Louvre became 
successively the residences of the sovereign. The two latter 
have entirely disappeared; the first, though greatly muti¬ 
lated, still retains some of its feudal terrors as well as mag¬ 
nificence. The present Louvre, and the colossal additions it 
has received to unite it with the Tuileries, now form one of 
the most attractive features of the metropolis. The central part 
of the Tuileries comes next in order of antiquity; and then 
the eastern part of the Long Gallery that connects it with the 
Louvre. In historical associations the Palace of the Tuileries 
rivals, while in scenes of slaughter and mournful recollection, 
it surpasses, the great monument of the age of Louis XIV., Ver¬ 
sailles. The Luxembourg is the best specimen extant of the 
feign of Louis XIII. Next to this comes the Palais Royal, 

(0 For descriptions of all these edifices, see Tndex. 


CHURCHES. 33 

which has replaced an edifice of nearly the same date as the 
Luxembourg; and the late Palais Bourbon, now appropriated 
to the use of the Legislative Body. Both edifices have a strong 
claim upon the attention of the stranger, having been long the 
respective residences of the families of Orleans and Conde. 
The Palais de I Ely see Napoleon must not be omitted, since 
the interest it derives from history is now enhanced by its 
having been the official residence of the present Emperor, 
when President of the Republic. If to this list be added the 
chateaux near Paris, belonging to the State, such as Versailles , 
Les Trianons, St. Germain, Compiegne, Fontainebleau, 
Meudon, and St. Cloud, the magnificence of the ancient court 
of France will in some degree be understood. 

CHURCHES.—Of these St. Germain des Pres is the most 
valuable relic of the Romanesque style of architecture now re¬ 
maining in Paris. Of the Early Pointed style Notre Dame is 
the great type ; and, both from its size and numerous historical 
recollections, the cathedral church takes the lead of all others. 
There are hardly any specimens of the early Flamboyant style 
remaining. St. Severin and St. Germain VAuxerrois belong 
to its middle period(14oo—1500); St. Gervais and St.Merri, 
with the still remaining tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, 
to its latter period (1500—1550). The style of the Renaissance 
des Arts has a most magnificent and perfect illustration in St. 
Eustache, and a curious one in St. Etienne du Mont. Of the 
churches built in the Italian or Palladiaji style, the earliest 
is St. Paid et St. Louis, which is one of the most beautiful edi¬ 
fices of the reign of Louis XIII. The age of Louis XIV. has its 
ecclesiastical architecture represented by the churches and 
domes of the Val de Grace and the Invalides, the latter being 
of its kind the chef-d'oeuvre of that magnificent epoch. The 
church of St. Sulpice is the only large specimen of the style of 
sacred architecture under Louis XV. The Pantheon, or Church 
of St. Genevieve, exemplifies theskill of French architects under 
Louis XVI. This edifice by its associations points rather to the 
times of the first republic. The era of the first empire pro¬ 
duced the designs for the Madeleine; the honour of finishing that 
classic pile belongs to Louis Philippe. - As to the accessory 
decorations of churches, the splendid paintings of the dome of 
the Invalides, the pictures and altars of Notre Dame and St. 
Etienne du Mont, with the pictures of Ste. Marguerite and 
St. Nicolas des Champs, are particularly worthy of notice. 
The interiors of the Madeleine and St. Vincent.de Paule are 
the best specimens of the decorative taste of the present day. 

The churches of St. Roch, St. Eustache, and Notre Dame 
de Lorette are celebrated for their music, and on high festivals 

s 


34 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

are much crowded. Notre Dame, St. Sulpice , and St. 
Etienne da Mont, are also much frequented. All the Catholic 
places of worship in Paris are open from an early hour in 
the morning till 5 or 6 in the evening; on Sundays and festi¬ 
vals, persons using chairs pay 2 sous for each. 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.—The Hotels of the Ministers are in 
general splendid residences, and contain all the offices, &c., 
connected with the functions of each ministerial department. 
The Hotel of the Minister of Finance is the largest, and is situ¬ 
ated the nearest to the Tuileries ; the others are in the Faubourg 
St. Germain, or in the Place Vendome, and that of Foreign 
Affairs on the Quay d’Orsay. Soldiers mount guard at each. 

Of the residences of the Foreign Ministers, the largest and 
most sumptuous is that of the British Ambassador. 

The finest of the municipal buildings of Paris is the Hotel de 
Ville, where the Prefect of the department resides, and the se¬ 
veral offices dependent upon him are located, and councils held. 
It is the centre of the municipal jurisdiction of the depart¬ 
ment, while the Prefecture of Police is the centre for all mat¬ 
ters relating to public order, health, and security. 

The Palais de Justice unites within its precincts the supreme 
civil jurisdiction of the State, the Cour de Cassation, the Cour 
(VAppel, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and the Tribunal 
de Police Municipale. The new and richly decorated build¬ 
ings of the Tribunal of Commerce stands opposite. Law 
societies, such as the Temple, &c., in London, do not exist in 
Paris; and, although many lawyers reside near the Palais 
de Justice, there is no particular place of abode for them as a 
professional body. 

The Mint, or Hotel des Monnaies, is a building of ele¬ 
gant design; the Record-office, or Hotel des Archives, and 
the Imperial Printing-office, were once princely residences. 

Most of the principal bankers are established in the vicinity 
of the Exchange, or Bourse, the most remarkable of the com¬ 
mercial buildings. 

The edifices connected with literature and science are mostly 
on the southern side of the river, situated within, or grouped 
around, the ancient University. Such are the Observatory; 
and, in the immediate vicinity of the Pantheon, the buildings 
of the old University: the Sorbonne, and others now occupied 
by the Ecole Poly technique, and two of the Imperial Lyceums. 
The corps d’elite of science and literature, united in the Institut, 
holds its meetings on the spot where the ancient College des 
Quatre Nations stood. Of the scholastic establishments one 
of the most prominent on many accounts is the Sorbonne. 
The great establishment of the Jardin des Plantes lies to the 


PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 35 

east of the Pantheon, in a less frequented quarter of the town, 
and boasts some of the completest museums of Natural History 
in Europe. The chief literary establishment on the northern 
side is the Bibliotheque Imperiale, the richest collection of 
hooks and manuscripts, perhaps, on the Continent. These 
edifices, and the relics of the once powerful University of Paris, 
with its 30 colleges, some of which are still traceable, are all 
of high interest to the antiquary. 

The Arc de Triomphe de VEtoile , and the columns of the 
Place Venddme, the Bastille , and the Tr6ne, are the most pro¬ 
minent and interesting of those monuments which are purely 
ornamental. 

The military tendencies of the French nation are peculiarly 
conspicuous in the capital. The visitor cannot fail to he 
struck with the vastness and solidity of the Fortifications 
which encircle Paris. The idea of fortifying the city origi¬ 
nated with Napoleon, hut it was not carried out until 1841, 
when 140,000,000 fr. were granted for the purpose. The en¬ 
ceinte, consisting of 94 fronts of 335 metres, with a ditch of 
the average depth of 6 metres, and a breadth of from 18 to 50 
metres; has 65 entrances, viz., 51 gates, 10 passages for 
railways, and 4 posterns. The walls average 12 metres to 
the crest of the parapet. Seventeen casemated detached forts, 
presenting 93 fronts, defend the approaches (1), and are con¬ 
nected by a series of strategical roads. 

Within Paris, the most remarkable military edifices are the 
casernes, or barracks, most of which were erected in 17 30 
by Marshal Biron. The principal one, the Ecole Militaire, is 
one of the most admired buildings of the reign of Louis XV. 
Of those recently built, the most remarkable are the Caserne 
Napoleon , behind the Hotel-de-Ville, the Caserne dit Prince 
Eugene, Boulevard St. Martin, and that of the Rue de la 
Banque. The military hospital of the Val de Grace is placed 
in what was once the most richly-adorned convent of Paris ; 
and the H6tel des Invalides, is a splendid and colossal pile of 
building. 

The charitable buildings of Paris are, on account of their 
monastic origin, remarkable for their solidity and size. The 

(l) They are:— Forts de Charenton, Nogent, Rosny . Noisy , Itomain- 
ville, d’Anbervilliers del’Est, Couronne du Nord , Forts de la Bridie, 
du Mont Vulerien fthe most imposing of all), de Vanvrrs, d’Issy , 3 font- 
rouge, Bicctre, d’Icry; Lunette de Stains; Fort de Rouvray. Paris 
and its forts are armed with 2,238 mortars, cannons, and how¬ 
itzers ; 57 5 rampart guns, 200,000 muskets, 1,500 rocket-tubes, 
2,700 gun carriages, calculated for a million of projectiles, in 
all 9,129,000 kilos. ; 800,000 kilos, of lead, and 2,000,000 kilos, 
of gunpowder. 


30 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

H6tel Dieu possesses no architectural beauty; the hospital of 
the SalpStriere is the mosi remarkable for its construction as 
well as for its extent; the Hopital St. Louis is a picturesque 
edifice of the time of Henry IV. Bicetre, though not within the 
walls of the town, is yet essentially an institution of Paris. 
These edifices are maintained, by public as well as private 
funds, in a manner worthy of the nation to which they belong. 

PLACES.—Every open space at the junction of streets, &c., 
of more than usual size, is termed a place. Some of them are 
remarkable for their surrounding edifices, and a few for their 
size. The principal are the Place de la Concorde, du Carrou¬ 
sel, du Palais Royal, Vendome, des Victoires, Royale, &c. 

SQUARES.—Paris now possesses eight squares laid out as 
gardens, in the London style, but open to the public. They 
cover in the aggregate an area of 8 acres. Chairs may be 
hired there for 3 or 4 sous. The most remarkable are those 
of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, the Temple, Ste. Clotilde. Place 
Louvois, Place Montholon, and des Arts and Metiers. 

THE BOULEVARDS.—About 1670, Paris ceased to be a 
fortified city; the walls and towers were pulled down, and a 
road made which took the name of Boulevard (bulwark), and 
was planted with trees from the rue St. Antoine to the rue St. 
Martin. A triumphal arch was erected on the site of the Porte 
St. Denis, and the boulevard soon extended from the rue St. 
Martin to the rue St. Honore. The northern boulevards were 
finished in 1704, those on the south in 1761. 

The old boulevards, which, since the formation of those 
skirting the new additions to Paris, are called Boulevards in- 
terieurs, form two grand divisions, the Boulevard du Nord and 
the Boulevard du Midi. The former is 5,067 metres in length, 
and is subdivided into 12 parts. (See Map.) The Boulevard 
du Midi is 6,100 metres in length, and is divided into 7 parts. 
The} r are planted with four rows of trees, forming a carriage- 
road with a double walk on each side. (1) The Boulevard ex - 
terieur, finished in 1814, and measuring 15,222 metres on the 
northern, and8,159 on the southern bank, is divided into parts 
named after the Marshals of the Empire. The northern boule¬ 
vards are now the pride of Paris. Once its bulwark, they 
have become its ornament. Their great extent, the dazzling 
beauty, the luxury of the shops, the restaurants, the cafes, on or 
near them ; the crowds of well-dressed persons who frequent 
them; the glancing of lights among the trees; the sounds of 
music; the incessant roll of carriages, all this forms a medley 

(l) The planting and keeping in order all the parks, squares, 
and walks of Paris costs the City 2,4 48,ooo fr. a-year. The num¬ 
ber of trees in the gardens, walks, streets, &c., is 1 58 , 460 . 


MARKETS, RATHS, ETC. 37 

of sights and sounds-anything but unpleasing to the visitor who 
walks the boiilevards for the first time on a fine evening. The 
Boulevard des Italiens is the most fashionable part, and, in 
fine weather, is densely crowded with ladies and gentlemen 
seated on chairs hired for 2 or 3 sous each (1). To the northern 
boulevards must now be added the magnificent Boulevard de 
Sebastopol, those round the Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile, 
the Boulevard Maleslierbes, the Boulevards Haussmann, de 
Magenta, de VAlma , du Prince Engine, Richard Lenoir, 
and others still under construction. The boulevards to the 
south being almost deserted, offer a striking contrast to this 
lively picture. 

PASSAGES.—These are a grand resort of all the loungers of 
the town. The most remarkable are: the Passages des Pano¬ 
ramas, Jouffroy , Verdeau, Vivienne, Colbert, Choisevl, De¬ 
lorme, duSaumon, Vero-Dodat, des Princes, &c. 

BAZAARS.—There are six of these of some note existing in 
Paris. The best are the Bazars Montmartre and Jouffroy. 

MARKETS, &c,—The first market-house in Paris was situ¬ 
ated in the Cite, near the street still called rue du Marche Palu. 
A market, called Marche de l’Apport, was afterwards held near 
the extremity of the rue St. Denis, till Louis VI. transferred it 
to a piece of ground near the cemetery des Innocents named 
Champeaux, or Petit Champs. Philip Augustus established 
two other markets near the same spot, and they took the name 
of halles. Each class of dealers and every neighbouring town 
had its particular halle. Francis I. caused all the halles to be 
rebuilt, with pillars of stone opening into dark galleries, (l.) 
At present there are markets in every part of the city ; the 
most elegant being the Halles Centrales (see p. 243).—For the 
principal markets, see Index, under Marche and Halle. (2) 
The dealers in the market-places amount to nearly 9,000. ( 3 ) 

BATHS, 8cc.—These were very common in the time of the 
Romans, as well as in the middle ages, when they were called 
etuves ; their proprietors, the barbiers-etuvistes, forming a 
corporate body. Under Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. they be- 

(1) The City clears about 20,000 fr. per annum from this 
source of revenue. 

( 2 ) A halle signifies a place where goods of any kind are sold 
wholesale; a marche is where commodities are purchased retail. 
There are at present 22 of the former, and 24 of the latter. 

(3) The kitchen gardens in the environs of Paris produce 
50,000,000 fr. annually, and employ upwards of r.o,o 0 o persons. 
There are also about 200 flower-gardens in and about Paris; and 
the sale of flowers, especially on great ball days, or similar occa* 
sions, amounts to between 30,000 fr. and 50,000 lA dailj?., 


38 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

came places of debauchery. There are now 200 bathing-estab¬ 
lishments in Paris, which afford every kind of accommodation 
at a low charge, and furnish on an average 2,500,000 baths 
pc‘r annum to the public, including mineral and vapour baths. 
They are formed of ranges of small rooms. The bains am¬ 
bulant s, or portable baths, are a great accommodation to the 
public. There are also cheap hygienic baths for workmen, 
under the direction of a society, which last year gave them 
and their children upwards of 40,000 baths. Paris also con¬ 
tains 174 Lavoirs, or public wash-houses, encouraged by the 
City by a reduction of the water-rates in their favour. Ecolesde 
Natation, or swimming-schools for both sexes, and baths of 
every kind, are to be found during summer in floating esta¬ 
blishments on the Seine, covered in, and fitted up with gal¬ 
leries, bathing-rooms, plunging-bridges, &c. Net or wood¬ 
work is placed at the bottom, which can be raised to the 
surface on occasion. Men are always in attendance to give 
instructions in swimming, and ropes and poles are in readi¬ 
ness to prevent accidents. The price generally is 12 sous, 
but there are some for the lower order of people, at 4 sous. 

CEMETERIES.—Before the seventh century, the Parisians 
buried their dead in the Roman fashion, without the city walls, 
along the sides of the high roads. Interments were subsequently 
allowed in churches and the contiguous ground, and, the city 
increasing, the cemeteries became gradually inclosed within the 
walls. At length, in 1790, the National Assembly prohibited 
interments within churches and towns. During the reign of 
Terror, men were buried without any ceremony or memorial 
to mark the spot where they lay. (l) 

(i) Since the annexation of the outlying communes in iseo, 
the Municipality have recognised the necessity of providing a 
suitable place of interment for the capital outside the walls, in 
conformity with the law. With this view a vast tract of ground 
has been purchased fora million of francs at Mery-sur-Oise, a 
place 2 3 kilometres from Paris, to be connected with the Ceme¬ 
tery of Montmartre, where the central terminus will be, by 
means of a railway. Underground lines, starting from the 
other two cemeteries, and six kilom. in length each, will con¬ 
centrate all the funerals at the former point. Trains will start 
for Merv at stated hours and at low fares, stopping only once, 
at the intermediate station of Ermont, to take up mourners, the 
line being exclusively devoted to the sole purpose of convey¬ 
ance of funerals. Everything is to be performed with proper 
decorum, and the poor will be relieved of all railway expense. 
On All-Saints’ and All-Souls’ days, when Ihe Catholics of Paris 
are in the habit of visiting the tombs of their deceased relatives, 
special trains will run at low^er prices even than those of the 
present omnibuses. Burying in the now existing Parisian 


ABATTOIRS. 39 

Those cemeteries .which are most worthy of a visit on 
account of the picturesque style in which they are laid out, 
and the elegant monuments they contain, are those of Pcre 
Lachaise, Montmartre, and Mont Parnasse. The interments 
take place with or without religious ceremonies, as the friends 
of the deceased please. (1) Chaplains are attached to the 
cemeteries for gratuitous service at the burials of the poor. 

ABATTOIRS (SLAUGHTER-HOUSES).—The five abattoirs 
built by Napoleon in 1809 have now been superseded by a 
single one, at La Yillette (see p. 4 50). Houses for melting 
the tallow and drying the skins are attached to this establish¬ 
ment, and are placed at the disposal of persons called fondeurs 
(melters), who must not be tallow-chandlers. Strangers 
should visit this new slaughter-house. (9.) A cattle-market has 
also been formed at La Yillette, on the bank of the canal 
opposite the new abattoir. 

cemeteries is to be discontinued as soon as they are full, except 
for the proprietors of family-vaults; hut the grounds are to 
remain as public promenades. 

(1) There are three kinds of graves in the cemeteries, 
namely: common graves ( fosses communes ), graves conceded 
for a certain period, and pemelual graves. The ground is 
usually hired for 5 years or more, subject to renewal. Up to 
seven years of age i nffitre is sufficient for a grave; above that 
2 metres must he purchased. Two bodies cannot he buried in 
the same ground except the extent he 2 metres, and that there 
he a vault constructed in it. In the fosses communes , 4*4 feet 
deep, the poor are gratuitously buried, in coffins placed close 
to hut not upon each other. They are re-opened at the end 
of 5 years. The monopoly of burials is granted to a company 
under the title of Entreprise des Pompcs Funebres, at 10 , Rue 
Alibert, where every information may he obtained, as also at 
each Mairie, where there are branch offices. Funerals are dis¬ 
tinguished into 9 classes; the lowest costing is fr. 75 c., in¬ 
cluding the religious ceremonies, and the ist class 7 1 81 fr. 
This last is hut a rough estimate, as there are no legal limits 
to funeral pomp. In cases of Englisn persons dying in Paris, 
application should he made to the clerk of any of the places of 
English worship, who will generally undertake the manage¬ 
ment of the funeral. Government receives from the Pompes 
Funebres 8354 percent, on the produce of funeral ornaments, 
and ir. per cent, on articles furnished. 

( 2 ) The duty upon the animals slaughtered is included in 
the octroi-duty paid on entering the abattoirs, and amounts to 
twelve i-3 centimes per kilogr. of meat. The number of but¬ 
chers within the metropolis is now 869. The counlry butchers 
bring meat to the markets of Paris on payment of a duty of 
eleven 1-5 c. per kil. Cattle-factors deposit 50,000 fr. caution 
money, and receive one per cent, on their Rles. A special 


40 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

COMMON SEWERS, &c.—The Seine and the Bievre in the 
southern part of Paris, and the Seine and the rivulet of Menil- 
moutant in the northern part, were formerly the only recep¬ 
tacles for rain-water, See. The ditches round the city-walls 
served as sewers. Vaulted sewers were first begun in 1671. (1) 

The gutters, formerly in the middle of the streets, are now 
mostly placed by the side of the foot-pavements. Closely 
connected with the drainage of the town, is the system adopted 
for removing the night-soil from the houses (see p. 451. n.) 



SOCIAL STATISTICS. 

POPULATION.—The following table shows the progressive 
increase of the population of Paris within its new limits:— 


Years, 

Copulation. 

Years. 

Population: 

1292 

215,861 

1802 (war) 

672,000 

1553 

260,000 

1817 (peace) 

71 3,000 

1718 

509,000 

18 56 

1,1 74,346 

17 55 

576,000 

1861 (extension) 

1,696,1 41 

1784 

660,000 

1866 (lastcensus)i,825,274. 


In I860 the whole department of the Seine contained 
2,150,916 souls, exclusive of slrangers. The number of 

factor is appointedjfor the sale of pork. The fees to the drivers 
are ioc. per sheep, 70 c. per ox, and i fr. per calf. The 
slaughter-men at the abattoirs get from i fr. to i fr. 50 c. for 
each animal, besides the entrails, brains, and blood. Horseflesh, 
marked as such, is now sold at several shops in the poorer 
quarters with the permission of the police. 

(l) The present system of sewers consists of 7 main galleries, 
or collectors, is secondary ones opening into the former, and 
fed by a vast number of smaller ones. The right bank has 
three collectors, converging to a general one under the Rue 
Royale. The three collectors of Hie left bank also communi¬ 
cate with the latter by means of a syphon sunk under the bed 
of the Seine above the Pont de la Concorde. The general col¬ 
lector, which is 5 metres in height by 5.60 in breadth, and five 
kilometres and a half in length, carries all the sewage it receives 
to a point below Asni^res. It is cleansed by four well-sized 
boats provided with drop-planks in front, whereby such a head 
of water is obtained as to drive all the sediment, stones in¬ 
cluded, to a distance of 100 metres. It takes 16 days to cleanse 
Ihe whole extent. The aggregate length of all the sewers already 
built or under construction, is 460 , 00 O metres. Even this, 
however, has proved insufficient, and a large proportion ot the 
foul waters is now clarified by chemical agents, and sold for 
manure at a profit. The sewers may be visited. 





POPULATION. 41 

births in the capital for. 1866 (last return) was 54,285 ; still¬ 
born children, 4,356 ; deaths, 49,611 ; marriages, 17,201. 
Of the births, 27,505 were males, and 26,780 females; 8,000 
took place in hospitals, and 15,510 were illegitimate, of 
which 3,692 were recognised by their parents. Of the deaths, 
25,903 were males, and 23,708 females ; 35,720 died at their 
homes, 12,651 in civil hospitals, 622 in military hospitals, 
97 in prisons, 360 were deposited at the Morgue, and two 
executed. In the department of the Seine the number of births 
in the year 1864 was 62,046 ; deaths, 52,762 ; marriages, 
19,123. (l) The average number of deaths in Paris is 1 in 
4o per annum. 

Of the population of Paris nearly one-half are working people. 
There are about 80,000 servants, and 115,000 paupers. Nearly 
21,000 patients are always in the hospitals, and 4 times that 
number pass through them in the course of the year. Found¬ 
lings and old and infirm persons, are about 20,000 in all. The 
population of the prisons is about 5,000. (2) 

It has been remarked that families constantly residing in 
Paris soon become extinct. The effects of this mortality have 
been observed to be more active upon males than females. 

REVENUE, TAXES, See.—Paris, which before 1860, only 


(l) The tolal population ofFrance in 18oi was 27,349,ooO; in 
1 8'2 0 it was 30,4 51,187 ; in 1846: 35,401,761 ; in 1 851 : 35,7 85,059 
in 1 856- 36,039,364; and in 1866 : 38,067,094. The last account 
(1 864), comprising the three new departments, is as follows : 


I Legitimate. 
Illegitimate 
Total 

Marriages. : ... . 

Still-born. 

~ .. (Males . . . 

Deaths .... j Females . . 

T (Males . . . 

• Increase • • • (Females . . 


(Boys 
’ * l Girls 
(Boys 
• * 1 Girls 
/ Bovs 
l Girls 


477,758 ) 
452,222 ) 
38,402 ) 
37,408 ) 
516,160 ) 
489,720 J 


434,666 ) 
425,664 ) 
81,494 ) 
64,056 ) 


929,980 

75,900 

1,005,880 

299,579 

46,641 

860,330 

145,550 


The annual average of suicides in France is 4 , 500 , being l in 
8,3ii of the adult population. Suicides of males are to those of 
females as 4 to l. The mean duration of life in France is at pre¬ 
sent 37.7 years; before 171 9 it was but 2s - 75, showing an in¬ 
crease of nearly 9 years in the average life of man in this coun¬ 
try. See the “Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes.” 

( 2 ) The last census (1866) showed that there were in France 
10,210,756 bachelors,and 9,487,54 1 spinsters; 928,724widowers, 
and 1 , 195,065 widows; and about 7 , 000,000 married couples. 











4 2 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

comprised the old city together with its faubourgs or suburbs, 
has now absorbed the greater part of the 37 communes which 
constituted its banlieue, or precincts and environs, which lie 
within the fortifications. The budget of Paris for 1868 is 
officially stated at 245,212,060 fr. both for receipts and 
expenditure (1). The City contributes about 18,500,000 fr. 
towards the expenses of the State, and nearly 5 millions of 
francs towards those of the department of the Seine. The 
contribution foncierc, mobiliere, and des portes et fenetres 
(house, furniture and window-taxes), produce about 33 mil¬ 
lions of francs annually ; the contribution des patentes (trade 
licenses), nearly 12^ millions of francs. 

Since 1851, the contribution personnels has been regu¬ 
lated as follows: persons renting lodgings of less than 
250 fr. a-year pay none, unless patentes, or licensed to trade, 
in which case they pay 3 percent on the rent; from that sum 
to 499 fr., 3 per cent, on the amount of the rent; 500 to 
999 fr., 5 percent. ; 1000 to 14 99 fr., 7 per cent. ; and 1500 
and upwards, 9 per cent, on the rent. The debt of the city 
of Paris in 1808 amounted to 200,000,000 fr. 

Tariff of the Octroi or Entrance Duties.— Per hecto¬ 
litre : Wine in wood, 18 fr. ; do. in bottles, 2 5 fr. ; brandy 
and spirits, liqueurs, fruit in brandy, and scented spirits, 
114 fr. 50c.; perry and cider, 7 fr. 80c. ; vinegar, verjuice, 
See., to fr.; beer brought to Paris, 3 fr. 80 c.; do. brewed 
in Paris, 2 fr. 85 c. (2); olive oil, 38 fr. ; other oils, 21 fr. ; 
charcoal, 50c.— Per loo kilogrammes : butcher’s meal 
brought into Paris, 10 fr. 55 c. ; ditto from the abattoirs, 
8 fr. 85 c. ; sausages, hams, &c., 20 fr. 70 c. ; coals, 60 c.; 

(1) Among tlie items of receipts, in this year’s budget, we find : 
—Octroi Duties, 92 ,385,000 fr.; Market dues,7,87o,ooo fr.; Public 
Weights and Measures, i,i3i,00o fr.; Supply of Water, 5 , 553,000 
fr.; Slaughter-houses, 2,355,000 fr.; Rents of Standings on Public 
Ways, 3,o9o.ooO fr.; Dues on Burials, 694,ooo fr.: Grants of Land 
in Cemeteries, i , 520,000 fr.; Contributions oftheState and others 
for paving, lighting, etc., H, 399,000 fr.; Trade-licences, 
17 , 298,000 fr. ; Dog-tax, 420,000 fr. Night-soil, 660 ,OoO fr. 

Among the items of expenditure were :—Interesl of Debt and 
Sinking Fund of the City, 21 , 044 ,361 fr.; Expenses of Collection, 
Salaries, &c., 6,036,500 fr.; Primary Instruction, 5 , 230,000 fr.; 
Public Worship, 154 ,000 fr.; National Guard and Military Service, 
2 , 947,000 fr.; Repairs of Public Buildings, 1 , 557,000 fr.; Public 
Assistance, 22 , 346,000 fr.; Promenades and Works of Art, 
3,038,ooo fr.; Establishments of Public Instruction, 144,000 fr.; 
Public Festivals, 753.000 fr.; Expenses of the Prefecture of 
Police, 15,965,000 fr.; New Public Works, 24,5i2,ooo fr. ; Light¬ 
ing of streets, 4 , 214,000 fr. 

(3) beep wa$ drunk for the first lime in Paris in H?8. 


TRADE OF PARIS. 43 

oats, 1 fr. 25 c.— Per »tere: firewood, 2 fr. 50 c.— Per hun¬ 
dred trusses of 5 kilog. each : dry hay, 5 fr.; straw, 2 fr. 

Every driver of articles subject to duty, is bound to make 
declaration thereof at the bureau before he enters Paris; to 
show his way-bill to the officers, and pay the duties, upon 
pain of a fine equal to the value of the articles in question. 
Any article introduced without being declared, or upon a false 
declaration, is liable to he seized. The officers cannot use 
the probing-iron in their examination of boxes, packages, &cc., 
declared to contain goods that may suffer damage. No in¬ 
dividual is exempt at the gate in his carriage, from inspection 
or the duties. There are also octroi offices at the abattoir of 
La Yillette for cattle, at the railway-stations, and on the ports. 
The navigation of the Seine, annually produces a net income 
of 1 , 500,000 fr. (l) 

Thape. —From a late official enquiry set on foot by the 
Chamber of Commerce, it appears that the trade of Paris may 
be classed under ten heads, viz :— 



No. of 

No. of 

Production 


establish- 

bane’s. 

in millions. 


ments. 



1. Food . 

29,069 

38,859 

1,088 

2. Building • 

5,378 

71,242 

315 

3. Furniture , 

7,391 

37,951 

200 

4. Clothing . 

23,80:. 

78,477 

455 

b . Fcxtilo fabrics . 

2,836 

26,810 

120 

6. Metals. 

3,440 

28,866 

164 

7. Jewellery, etc. . . 

3,199 

18,731 

183 

8 . Chemistry, porcelain 

2,719 

14,397 

194 

9. Printing, engraving, etc. 

2,759 

19,507 

94 

10. Other trades 

20,580 

82,071 

556 

Totals • 

101,171 

416,811 

, 3,369 


The hands employed comprise about 280,000 men, 
105,000 women, and the rest children. There are about 
60,000 males earning from 50 c. to 3 fr. a day; 211,000 
earn from 3 fr. 25c. to 0 fr. ; and 15,000 from G fr. 5o c to 
20 fr. Of the females, 17,200 earn from 50 c. to 1 fr. 25 c.; 
88,700 from 1 fr. 50 c. to 4 fr ; and 700 from 4 fr. 50 c. 


In 1849 

731,713,000 fr. ! 

1855 I 

950,879, OOOfr. 

1801 

1854 

737 843.000,, j 

1857 

1,052,713,600 ., 

1803 

1853 

846,80’.,000 ,, ; 

1859 1 

1,094,644,009 ,, 

1807 


(l) The produce of the Indirect taxes for all France was : 

1,099,5GG,0rt0fr. 

1,24'.,377,000 „ 
1,252,240,000 „ 

Among the items of 1S67 we find: Registration and Mortgage 
dues, 324,576,000 fr.; Stamps, 80 , 360,000 fr.; Customs, Naviga¬ 
tion, &c., 69,444,000 fr.; Salt-duty, 22 , 956,000 fr.; Potahle 
liquors, 224 , 985,000 fr.; Letters, and Duty on sending money, 
■7 3 , 024,000 fr.; Tobacco Monopoly, 236 ,565 ,000 francs. Home¬ 
grown, Colonial, and Foreign Sugar, 1 06,656 ,000 fr. The col- 
Jectiop of taxes for all France costs 151 millions of francs. 













44 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

to 10 fr. Out of 100 workmen, 71 have their own furni¬ 
ture, 18 live in lodging-houses, and 11 with their masters: 
87 per cent, can read and write. The different manufac¬ 
tories contain 1,185 steam-engines, representing 9,748 horse¬ 
power, and 2,997 sewing-machines. 

There are about 1,000 manufactories of haberdashery, and 
141 of paper-hangings; the shawl trade counts 752 looms ; the 
number of maisons de modes is 879 ; of ready-made clothes 
shops, 225 ; stay-makers, 653 ; hatters, 644 ; cabinet-makers, 
1,915 ; carvers, 222 ; upholsterers, 519; house painters, 
1,800; looking-glasses, 120; bronze and gilt work, 450 ; 
pastry-cooks, 622. This latter trade nets 21 millions of 
francs per annum; restaurants, 104 millions; and dentists, 
1,500,000 fr. 

Out of the 101,171 establishments, 64,000 continue with¬ 
out interruption throughout the year. The remaining 37,17 i 
suffer more or less from slack work and absolute interruption. 
In some of these the dead season endures from two to four 
months ; but as these periods are regular in their recurrence, 
both master and man can provide against them (1). 

Rag-collectors, or chiffonniers, realize from 1 fr. 50 c. to 
2 fr. a day. Young women in shops receive their food, wash¬ 
ing, and lodging, and are paid from 300 to 7 00 fr. per 
annum. Apprentices generally have board and lodging ; 
sometimes their washing and a trifling salary. The ordinary 
expense of a journeyman is from 30 to 40 sous daily for 
food, and from 7 to 10 fr. per month for lodging. (2) A great 
part of the Paris workmen do no work on Monday or on Sun¬ 
day afternoon. Their condition has been observed to improve 
nearly in proportion as Savings’ Banks have increased. (Sec 
these institutions at p. 129.) 

Of the manufactures existing in Paris, or its vicinity, 
three belong to the government, viz., one, the Gobelins, for 
tapestry and carpets ; one for snuff and tobacco ; and the third 
for porcelain. The first of these does not sell its produce ; but 

(0 The average yearly amount, calculated on the last sixteen 
years, of the exports from Paris, is 130, 000,000 fr. The number 
of tradesmen’s licences annually issued in Paris is upwards of 
65,ooo, producing M millions a-year. The capital invested in 
all France in trades and manufactures now amounts to 100,000 
millions of francs, instead of 50,000 millions in 1830. France 
has 150,000 large trade establishments, employing 1,500,000 
operatives, in addition to 5,000,000 employed in minor trades, 
and 500,000 steam horse-power, representing the labour of 
10,000,000 men. 

(2) A sum of 3,000,000 fr., resulting from the confiscation of 
the Orleans property, had been since 1853 placed at the disposal 


CONSUMPTION OF PARIS. 45 

the second furnishes nearly a fifth of the snuff and tobacco 
consumed in the country, the sale of which amounts to 
140,000,000 fr. The third, at Sevres, is rather a laboratory 
for useful experiments in the manufacture of porcelain; its 
sales, though very great, barely cover the expenses. 

CONSUMPTION.—The following is an average statement of 
the consumption of Paris :— 

Wine, 2 , 700,000 hectolitres (i); spirits, 106,000 h.; cider, 
80,000 h.; fine oil, 9,ooo h.; vinegar, 36,ooo h.; beer, 370,000 h.; 
milk, 1 , 200,000 h. ; syrups, 7,000 h.; orange-flower water, 
1,000 h.; butchers’ meat, 334 , 000,000 kilogrammes; pork, 
18 , 000,000 k.; bams, sausages, 1 , 800,000 k.; pies, potted meats, 
302,000 k.; cheese, 3 , 000,000 k.; bread, 300 , 000,000 k.; sea-fish, 
1 i,ooo,ooofr.; oysters, 2 , 500 ,ooofr.; fresh-water fish, 1 , 500 ,ooofr.; 
poultry and game, 21 , 000,000 fr.; butter, 25 , 000,000 fr.; eggs, 
13 , 000,000 fr. ; grapes, 4 , 200,000 k.; pastry, 5,000,000 k.; su¬ 
gar, 7,500,000 k.; jams, 920,000 k.; ices, custards, 550,000 k.; 
honey, 240,000 k. ; coffee, 3,000,000 k.; chocolate, 4,000,000k.; 
common fruit, 210,000,000 k.; melons, 1 , 000,000 fr.; oranges, 
lemons, 2,000,000 k.; dried fruit, 4,000,000 k.; pine apples, 
10,400 k.; greens, 150,000,000 k.; pulse, 8,600,000 k.; truffles, 
26,000 k.; salt, 11 , 500,000 k.; mustard, 270,000 k.; spices, 
150,000 k.; mushrooms, 2 , 525,000 small baskets; chesnuts, 
3,000 beet.jwalnuts, 4,500 sacs ; hay, 18 , 000,000 bundles ; straw, 
26,000,000 bundles ; oats, 150 , 000, 000 k.; ice, 8 , 500 , 000 k. (2) 

The ordinary consumption of Paris in grain and flour, sold 
at the Halle au Ble, is estimated at 2,000 sacks, each weighing 
159 kilogrammes, daily. The price of bread, no longer offi¬ 
cially regulated by the authorities, varies with the price of flour, 
but may be averaged at 3 sous a-pound for best quality. (3) In 
the winter of 1846-1847 it was as dear as 6% sous. 

of the Minister of the Interior, in order to enter into arrange¬ 
ments with capitalists for building houses for the workingclasses. 
But this plan not succeeding, the Emperor, in 18 56, bought 
18,000 square metres of ground on the Boulevard Mazas, where 
such houses for persons of limited income have now been built. 
Since 1862 Count de Madre has built 86 houses behind the 
Hopital St. Louis, in Ihe rueSt.Maur and the adjoining ground. 
Each apartment, let at 2 to fr. a-year, consists of two rooms and 
a kitchen. There is no distraining for rent, nor is any claimed 
beforehand, the insolvent lodger being only exposed to ejection. 

( 1 ) The vineyards of France are estimated at 800,000 acres, 
producing 40 millions of hectolitres of wine (value 500 millions 
of fr.), which pay an octroi-duty of so millions of fr., besides 
120 millions of francs to the State. 

( 2 ) The consumption of Paris is valued at 1 , 000 , 000,000 fr. 
Even Madrid sends vegetables to the French capital. 

(3) Since 1863, the baking trade has been thrown open. The 
number of bakers in Paris is now 846. In 1700 the average 



4 6 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

The greatest number of oxen for the Paris ma kets are 
brought from the departments of Calvados, Maine-et-Loire, 
Eure, Manche, Orne, Vendee, and Hante-Vienne; their price 
varies from 300 to GOO fr. a-head. Cows come from the 
districts of Maine, Normandy, Beauce, and Brie ; their value is 
from 190 to 450 fr. Calves come from Auvergne and Nor¬ 
mandy, but are bought up by the dealers of Pontoise, and 
there fattened for the capital; their average value is from 7 5 
to 120 fr. Sheep are sent in the greatest numbers from the 
Seine-et-Oise, Indre, Marne, Orne, and Germany; they sell from 
25 to 30 fr. each. The capital employed in the purchase of 
cattle for Paris last year was upwards of 47,000,000 fr. (1) 

The annual sale of tobacco in Paris is estimated at 2,000,000 
kilogrammes; wood, 700,000 steres; charcoal, 3,500,000 
hectolitres; and coal, 000,000,000 hectolitres. 


(BHUUPtnBia 331k 

' HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. - 

The origin of Paris and of its founders is involved in great 
obscurity. A wandering tribe obtained permission of the Se- 
nones, at a remote period, to settle upon the banks of the 
Seine. They built huts upon the island now called la Cite, 
which served as a natural fortress to protect their property 
from the neighbouring tribes. To their stronghold they gave 
the name of Lutetia (2), and to themselves that of Parisii. (3) 

Upon the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, he found the 

price of the pound loaf was 4^ sou ; in 1763 2 sous ; 3 in l s 39 ; 
and it is now 4. in 1739 meat cost 9 sous a pound ; its present 
price is 20 sous. The yearly production of corn in France is 
8 , 046 , 000,000 kil.; consumption: 7 , 900 , 000 , 000 kilos. 

( 1 ) By order of the Minister of the Interior, a hook, called 
Stud-book Frangais, for the registration of the short-horned or 
Durham race of cattle, is published regularly. The following 
is, in round numbers, an official statement of the cattle now 
existing in Ihe 89 departments of France :—Horses, 3 , 000 , 000 ; 
asses, 3oo,ooo ; mules, 360,000 ; hulls, 300,000 ; oxen, 2 , 000 , 000 ; 
cows, 5 , 800 , 000 , and calves, 2 , 000 , 000 ; sheep, 35 , 000 , 000 , 
including 26 , 000,000 of the merino, or crosses of the latter 
with the common breed ; goats, 1 , 400 , 000 ; pigs, 4,4oo*ooo. 

( 2 ) Lutetia, from loutou-hesi, dwelling of the waters. Sequana, 
Seine, from seach , devious, and an, water, river; from avainn. 

(3) Parisii— probably from the Celtic bar or par, a frontier. 



HISTORICAL NOTICE. 


47 


Parisii one of the 64 tribes of the Gallic confederation, whose 
chief town was Lutetia. Two bridges established communi¬ 
cations with the opposite banks of the Seine, which were 
covered with extensive marshes or gloomy forests, and the in¬ 
habitants, who were remarkably fierce, supported themselves 
chiefly by hunting and fishing. Under the dominion of the 
Romans, this tribe remained in the same state of insignificance 
as before; their progress in civilisation was slow, and even 
the worship of the Roman gods with difficulty superseded the 
human sacrifices of the Druids. Some antiquarian remains 
dug up from beneath the choir of the Cathedral of Notre 
Dame, and which are now deposited in the remaining 
vault of the Palais des Thermes, lead to the conclusion that 
temples were erected there to Jupiter and Mercury. In 
the year 54 B. C., Caesar convoked at Lutetia an assembly of 
the nations of Gaul. In the general rebellion of the Gallic na¬ 
tions, in the following year, Lutetia was burnt by the Gauls to 
prevent its falling into the hands of the Romans; but it sub¬ 
sequently came into their power with the rest of Gaul. 
The Roman laws and a municipal government were gradually 
introduced, and the city was called Lutetia Parisiorum. 

During the next three centuries the place is hardly noticed. 
The emperor Julian, betweenA.D. 358 and A.D. 360, remodelled 
the government of Gaul, gave stability to the Roman laws, and 
equalized the privileges of the various towns. Lutetia changed 
its name to Parisii, obtained political franchises, and the dig¬ 
nity of a city . The trade of Paris was in the hands of a trad¬ 
ing company, called Nautce Parisiaci, which existed long 
after the fall of the Romans. For 500 years of Roman do 
mination, Paris was the residence of a prefect. A palace 
was erected in the Cite for municipal purposes, and another on 
the south bank of the Seine, remains of which may still be 
seen. An arena was formed upon the declivity of the hill of 
St. Victor, and a cemetery near where the Lycee St. Louis now 
stands; an aqueduct was constructed from Chaillot, remains 
of which were discovered in the last century in the Place de la 
Concorde and the Palais Royal; and a second aqueduct, to 
convey the waters of Arcueil to the Palais des Thermes. Con¬ 
stantine and Constantius visited the capital of the Gauls; Ju¬ 
lian passed three winters in it; Valentinian issued several 
laws here, which are published in his code; and Gratian, his 
son, lost a battle under its walls, which cost him the empire. 

According to a legend of the monks of St. Denis, the gospel 
was first preached at Paris, about the year 250, by St. Denis 
the Areopagite, who suffered martyrdom at Montmartre. As 
early as the reign of Valentinian I. a chapel dedicated to 



4 8 GENERAL INFORMATION. 


St. Stephen was erected on the spot where Jupiter was wor¬ 
shipped/ and where the cathedral of Notre Dame now stands. 

In 4 06, Gaul suffered greatly from the incursions of hordes 
of barbarians from the north. In 445, the Sicambri, of the 
league of the Franks, crossing the Rhine, made themselves 
masters of the cities situated on its banks, and, marching thence 
to Paris, stormed it. The Roman government, however, still 
lingered on in Gaul, in the last stage of existence, when Cliil- 
deric, king of Tournay, having died in 481, his son Clodovech, 
or Clovis, in 486 marched against the Roman general Siagrius, 
whom he routed ; and, extending his conquests by degrees, he 
made himself master of Paris, in 494 or 496. Here he mar¬ 
ried Clotilde, embraced Christianity, and built a church to St. 
Peter and St. Paul, but which shortly after was dedicated t© 
Ste. Genevieve, who died in his reign. At this period the island 
was surrounded by walls with gates and towers. Childebert 
built the abbey of St. Germain des Pres and church of St. 
Germain l’Auxerrois. The walls built by Clovis existed until 
Louis VI., in order to defend himself from his feudal lords, 
protected the faubourgs on the north and south by a wall. 

Under the kings of the Merovingian dynasty, which lasted 
256 years, the arts, laws, and literature, introduced by the 
Romans into Gaul, fell into decay. Few of the princes of the 
second or Carlovingian dynasty resided at Paris Charlemagne 
afforded powerful protection to letters and the sciences, and did 
more for the establishment of the monarchical authority than 
any of his predecessors, but, under his feeble successors, Paris 
became the private patrimony of hereditary counts. In 845 
the Normans, attracted by the wealth of the churches and con¬ 
vents, made a descent upon Paris; they sacked and burned it 
in 857, and again besieged it in 885. After appealing in vain 
to Charles le Chauve for succour, the Parisians, by their own 
efforts, seconded by the valour of Count Eudcs, or Odo, com¬ 
pelled the enemy, at the end of two years, to raise the siege. 
Charles was then deposed, and the crown given to Eudes, in 
whose family it became hereditary in the person ol Hugues Ca¬ 
pet, elected king in 987, In the first year of his reign he be¬ 
gan the palace which now bears the name of Palais de Justice. 
The inhabitants commenced building in all directions; and so 
great was the increase of the city that it was divided into four 
quarters, whence the term quartier, to express a division of 
Paris. At that period, however, the city was not very large, 
as ten men sufficed to collect the taxes. The duties of the 
northern gate, situated at the intersection of the rue St. Mar¬ 
tin with the new rue de Rivoli, produced, under Louis le Gros, 
only 12 fr a-year (600 fr. present money). This monarch re* 

















HISTORICAL NOTICE. , 49 

built the Louvre, which existed as early as the time of Dago- 
bert. Bishop Maurice de Sully began the foundations of Notre 
Dame, the first stone of which was laid in 1103, by Pope 
Alexander III.; and the Templars erected a palace upon the 
spot where the Marche du Temple is situated. Under the 
early reigns of the third dynasty, many privileges were con¬ 
ferred upon the Parisians. A royal prevot administered jus¬ 
tice in the king’s name, and a prevot des marchands watched 
over the municipal interest. The schools of Paris became 
celebrated, and in the 14th century colleges were founded. 

Philip Augustus built several churches and the tower of the 
Louvre of that time ; he caused streets to be paved, and for¬ 
tified the city with a wall and turrets, which, beginning on 
the right bank above the Pont des Arts, and proceeding 
northward as far as the rue Grenier St. Lazare, ended on the 
Quai des Ormes ; on the left bank it commenced near the pre¬ 
sent site of the Palais de lTnstitut, and, after running south¬ 
ward to the rue des Fosses St. Jacques, took an easterly direc¬ 
tion, and ended at the Quai de la Tournelle. The river was bar¬ 
red by a heavy chain fastened to piles, and supported byboats. 
Paris then formed three divisions, la Cite, in the centre; la Ville, 
on the North ; and l’Universite, on the south of the river. In 
1250, Robert Sorbon founded his schools in the quarter still 
called de la Sorbonne, which was also named le pays latin. 
Under St. Louis many vexatious customs were abolished, a 
better system of jurisprudence introduced, and many religious 
and commercial institutions established. A body of munici¬ 
pal troops was formed, and a night patrol organized. An hos¬ 
pital for the blind, a school of surgery, and a body of notaries 
were instituted. Philippe le Hardi improved the streets and 
highways ; and Philippe le Bel established several courts of 
justice. During the captivity of King John in England, Paris 
was agitated by the faction of the Maillotins, headed by Etienne 
Marcel, prevot des marchands, and instigated by Charles le 
Mauvais. Marcel was however slain by his own partisans, 
and the Dauphin quelled the revolt. 

Under Charles V., the faubourgs being much extended and 
in danger from the incursions of the English, new ditches and 
walls were begun in 1367, and completed in sixteen years. 
During this period the Bastille and the Palais des Tournelles 
were built, and the Louvre repaired and enlarged. Paris was 
then divided into 1G quarters, and contained 1084 acres of 
ground. Charles V. was succeeded in 1330 by Charles VI., 
who became insane in 1392, and died in 1422. During this 
disastrous reign, the revenues of the state were squandered 
in the struggle between the dukes of Orleans and Bourgogne ; 

4 


50 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

the factions of the Bourguignons and Armagnacs distracted the 
country, and the English occupied Paris in 1421. The Pont 
St. Michel was built in 1384, and the Pont Notre Dame in 
1414. Under Charles VII. the English were driven from Pa¬ 
ris, in 1436; and the Greek language was taught for the first 
time in the University, which contained 23,000 students. Un¬ 
der him and the succeeding monarch, Paris was desolated by 
famine, the plague, and by wolves, to such a degree, that in 
1400 the malefactors of all countries were invited thither as 
a sanctuary, with a view of repeoplingthe capital. Notwith¬ 
standing the dreadful mortality, the population, under Louis 
XL, amounted to 300,000 souls, and the space comprised 
within the walls was 1100 acres. In 1470 printing was in¬ 
troduced, and the post-office established. Francis I. gave a 
new aspect to Paris. The old castle of the Louvre, an as¬ 
semblage of towers and heavy walls, was demolished, and a 
palace commenced on its site. Several churches were rebuilt, 
a royal college for gratuitous instruction in the sciences and 
learned languages was founded, better communications opened 
between the different parts of the city, the fortifications en¬ 
larged and repaired, and the rebuilding of the Faubourg St. 
Germain, ruined during the preceding wars, commenced. - In 
1533, the Hotel de Ville was begun, the Quai de la Tournelle 
was formed in 1552, the Place Maubert in 1558, and the pa¬ 
lace and garden of the Tuileries in 1503. About the same 
time the Arsenal was constructed. Under Henry II. the col¬ 
lege of Ste. Barbe was endowed, a protestant church established 
in defiance of his persecutions, and the coins of the realm bore 
for the first time the effigy of the king. The wars of religion, 
and their disastrous consequences, among which the Massacre 
of St. Bartholomew was the most conspicuous, arrested for a 
while the progress of letters and the fine arts, until Henry IV., 
having restored peace to the kingdom, turned his attention to 
plans for promoting bis subjects’ happiness and embellishing 
the capital. During his reign the Pont Neuf was finished, the 
hospital of St. Louis founded ; the Place Boyale, the rue Dau- 
phine and the neighbouring quays, were laid out; great 
additions were made to the palace of the Tuileries, and the 
gallery which joins it to the Louvre was partly constructed. 

Under Louis XIII., the Palais Cardinal, now Palais Royal, 
was begun by Richelieu, and the Luxembourg by Marie de 
Medicis ; the Cours la Reine was planted ; the quays and bridges 
of the lie St. Louis constructed; magnificent hotels arose in 
the Faubourg St. Germain; the college, afterwards called 
Louis le Grand, the Academie Royale, and the Garden of 
Plants, were founded; the Faubourg St. Honore became unite 1 


HISTORICAL NOTICE. Mi 

with the villages of Houle and Ville-l’Evgquc, and the Faubourg; 
Saint Antoine, with Popincourt and Reuilly. 

Louis XIV. completed the projects of Henry IV. and Louis* 
XIII. More than eighty new streets were opened, and most of 
the old ones improved and embellished. The Place Vendome - 
and Place des Victoires were formed. Thirty-three churches* 
were erected, many of the quays were faced "with stone, and 
a new one formed; and, for the greater convenience of the- 
courts of justice, the Grand Chatelet was erected. The Hotell 
des Invalides, a foundling hospital, the Observatory, the co¬ 
lonnade of the Louvre, and the Pont Royal were completed,, 
and the Champs Elysees planted. The Tuileries were enlarged,, 
and the present garden laid out. The College Mazarin, now 
the Palais de l’lnstitut, was founded, as also the manufactory 
of the Gobelins. The old city gates were superseded by 
triumphal arches, of which those of St. Denis and St. Martini 
remain ; and the boulevards became promenades. 

Paris under Louis XV. occupied a space of 3342 acres.. 
Among the improvements of this reign are some of the sump¬ 
tuous hotels of the Faubourgs St. Germain and St. Honore, the • 
Palais Bourbon, now the palace of the Legislative Body, the 
church of Ste. Genevieve, (the Pantheon,) the Place de la Con¬ 
corde, the manufactory of porcelain at Sevres, the southern i 
boulevards, and several fountains, among which that of the • 
rue de Grenelle, by Bouchardon. Another foundling hospital; 
was established, the Ecolc Militaire, the Hotel des Monnaies,, 
College de France, facades of St. Sulpiee and St. Eustache • 
were built, and the Garden of Plants was enlarged. 

Louis XVI. continued the church of Ste. Genevieve, coni’ 
mencedthatof the Madeleine, built St. Philippe du Roule, and! 
several others. He also repaired the Palais de Justice, and! 
founded or enlarged several charitable institutions. The Theatre' 
FrariQais, the French, Italian, and Comic opera-houses, and 
other theatres, arose in quick succession. The old markets* 
were enlarged, and new ones formed. Steam-engines were - 
established on the banks of the Seine, to accelerate the distri¬ 
bution of water to different quarters of the city; the Pont de - 
la Concorde formed a communication between the Faubourg 
St. Honore and that of St. Germain, and the octroi-wall and! 
barriers were built (seep. 278). The new boulevards and the-' 
villages of Chaillot, le Roule, and Monceaux, were enclosed! 
within Paris, thus adding 8,500 acres to its area, and the; 
galleries of the Palais Royal, furnished with shops of every kind,, 
gave the Parisians an idea of the bazaars of the East. 

The local history of Paris during the first revolution is in* 
fact the history of the revolution itself. We need thereloier 



52 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

hardly advert to the taking of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, 
or the erection of the guillotine on the Place Louis XV., now 
Place de la Concorde. Many monuments of the middle ages 
were demolished in that eventful time, and the fine arts threat¬ 
ened with destruction. But under the Directory the museum 
of the Louvre was opened, and under Napoleon I. Paris as¬ 
sumed more than its former splendour. The Place du Car¬ 
rousel was cleared of the unsightly buildings which stood in 
front of the palace; the northern gallery connecting the Louvre 
with the Tuileries was begun ; the garden of the Tuileries 
embellished ; the magnificent rue de Rivoli commenced ; the 
rue Castiglione, connecting the latter with the Place Vendome, 
rue de la Paix, Boulevards and Chaussee d’Antin, was de¬ 
signed and executed ; a new and spacious market fofmed oil 
the site of the convent des Jacobins, near the rue St. Honore ; 
another near the abbey of St. Martin des Champs, and a third 
near St. Germain des Pres; three handsome bridges were built: 
and new quays formed on each bank of the river. The Canal 
de POurcq was opened, and, in the baein made at the barriere 
de la Villette, a junction was effected between it and the Canals 
of St. Denis and St. Martin, while an ample supply of water 
was thus afforded to the capital. The Place de la Bastille, 
intersected by the latter canal, was begun, and near it a vast 
granary of reserve was constructed. The Bank of France was 
established in the Hotel de Toulouse, and a magnificent Bourse 
or Exchange begun. Fifteen new fountains were erected in 
different parts of the city, and several wide streets and spacious 
markets were opened. The palace and garden of the Luxem¬ 
bourg were improved and enlarged, and the column of the 
Place Vendome erected. Three great cemeteries were formed 
without the barriers ; and five public slaughter-houses, called 
abattoirs, were constructed at the extremities of the faubourgs. 
The churches devastated during the revolution of 1789 were 
repaired and embellished. More than £4,000,000 were ex¬ 
pended on these works and improvements in 12 years. 

Paris was taken on the 30th March, 1814, by the allied 
forces under the command of Prince Schwarzenberg, after a 
gallant defence by the garrison, supported by the^National 
Guard, and the students of the Polytechnic and Veterinary 
Schools. On the 31st the allied sovereigns made their entry, a 
capitulation having been signed with the authorities of the city. 

Louis XVIII., on his restoration, extended the town, com¬ 
pleted the canals; constructed the Chamber of Deputies, three 
bridges, and several barriers ; erected statues of the kings of 
France in different places; built a chapel in the Temple, 
another in the rue d’Anjou, and a third on the site where the 








HISTORICAL NOTICE, 53 

Due de Berri was assassinated (see p. 251) Several mar¬ 
kets and hospitals were finished or enlarged, the works at the 
Entrepot des Vins and Grenier de Reserve resumed, and the 
lighting and cleansing of the city much improved. 

Under Charles X. the architectural alterations of Paris were 
chiefly of an ecclesiastical character. The church of St. Ger¬ 
main des Pres was restored ; the Madeleine progressed ; at Gros 
Caillou the church of St. Pierre was erected ; and other new 
churches rose from their foundations. Three new bridges were 
built; many of the Passages that now embellish Paris were 
begun, and the suburbs continued to increase rapidly. 

The people of France, dissatisfied with the return of the 
Bourbons through the aid of foreign bayonets, were not about 
this time very warmly attached to the reigning dynasty. The 
imprudent acts of the Villele and Polignac ministries increased 
their dissatisfaction, till the famous ordinances of July gave the 
signal for a general outbreak at Paris. During the 27 th. 28th, 
and 29th of July 1830, upwards of four thousand barricades 
were raised, and after an obstinate resistance on the part of the 
Swiss Guards and the Gendarmerie, commanded by Marshal 
Marmont, Charles X. was dethroned, and the younger branch 
called to the throne by the people in the person of Louis Phi¬ 
lippe. Under the reign of that prince, the garden and Palace 
of the Tuileries were much altered, some of the quays widened, 
those on the north planted, and several new bridges built. 
A great number of handsome new streets were opened, the 
Hotel de Ville was quadrupled in size, the Madeleine, the 
churches of Notre Dame de Lorette, St. Vincent de Paule, 
and St. Denis, were finished ; the Place de la Concorde was 
completely remodelled, and the Obelisk of Luxor reared in its 
centre; the Triumphal Arch at the Barriere de l’Etoile was 
completed, as were the magnificent palaces of IheQuai d’Orsay 
and of the Fine Arts. Vast works were undertaken for the 
drainage of the streets ; gas was generally introduced through¬ 
out the town ; and health and comfort were more consulted 
in the improved construction of private edifices. (1) 

(l) The following showstlie area of Paris at different periods : 


Under Julius Caesar.. 


. B.C. 

56 

Hectares, 

15 

» 

Philip Augustus. . 


. A.D. 

1211 

253 

» 

Charles VI. . 


• • 

1383 

439 

» 

Henry III. 


• • 

1581 

483 

» 

Louis XIII. . 


• • 

1634 

568 

» 

Louis XI 7. 


• • 

1686 

4,104 

» 

Louis XV. 


• • 

1717 

1,337 

» 

Louis Philippe 


• • 

1848 

3,524 

e 

Napoleon 111. 


• • 

1860 

7,802 






54 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Such was the state of apparent prosperity in the capital of 
France in the beginning of 1848, when political errors brought 
about the memorable revolution of February. The sudden 
change from royalty to a commonwealth generated a series 
<of public misfortunes, which put a stop to all improvement; 
and the greatest efforts on the part of the authorities were 
hardly equal to the task of satisfying the cravings of a host of 
starving workmen, by employing them in the demolition of 
some hundred decayed houses near the church of St. Eustache. 

In 1849, the ravages committed by the cholera at last roused 
the republican government to the conviction that the health 
■of the metropolis required the execution of great works of 
public utility. It therefore agreed to share with the city of 
Paris the expense of prolonging the rue de Rivoli; the new 
halles, now one of the ornaments of Paris, were also com¬ 
menced, and many a filthy street was effaced from the map. 

The events of Dec. 2d, 1851, which caused the overthrow 
of the Constitution of 1848, and the proclamation of the Em¬ 
pire on the same day of the following year, mark the com¬ 
mencement of an era of improvements, such as neither Paris, 
nor any other capital of Europe ever witnessed before. The 
rue de Rivoli has been extended to the rue St. Antoine ; the 
works of the Louvre and Place du Carrousel, commenced in 
1852, are all completed; the Boulevards de Sebastopol, de 
Malesherbes, anti du Prince Eugene have been opened ; the rail¬ 
way round Paris constructed, and extensive embellishments exe¬ 
cuted in the Bois de Boulogne and in that of Vincennes ; the 
rue des Ecoles connects the principal establishments of pub¬ 
lic instruction, the central market has been opened to traffic, 
and Paris has been extended to the fortifications. Since 
1867, the Place de l’Arc de Tiiomphe, the Rue de Turbigo, 
and the Boulevard Magenta have been completed, and the 
Rue de Rennes nearly prolonged to the Quays. (1) 

(l) The following are the principal sums laid out during the 
Empire in improving and beautifying Paris: Junction of the 
Louvre and the Tuileries, 62,500,000 fr. ; repairs of historical 
monuments, 2,170,000 fr.; Palace of the Elysee, 1,400,000 fr. ; 
Boulevard de Strasbourg, 3,149,000 fr. ; Boulevard de Sebas¬ 
topol (right bank), 23,500,000 fr. ; Monument to Marshal Ney, 
50,000 fr.; Religious edifices, 5,618,011 fr.; Tomb of Napoleon I., 
865,000 fr.; Hotel of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 4,500,000 fr.; 
Municipal and scholastic buildings, 54,894, 1 03 fr.: Palais de 
Tlndustrie, 14,880,000 fr. Boulevard St. Michel and Boulevard 
St. Germain (left bank), 42,187,728 fr.; Pouts des Invalidcs, 
d’l&na, andd’Arcole, 4,250,000 fr.; Cathedral of Paris, 3,5oo,ooofr. 
barracks, 7,850,000 fr.; streets, walks, gardens, 69,328,018 fr. ; 
New Opera, 22,000,000 fr,; total, 323,641,862 fr. 


TABLE OF FRENCH KINGS. 55 


The following table of the Kings of France, with the dates 
Df their accession, and commencing with the first monarch 
of the second or Carlovingian race, will be found useful. 


A.D. 

Pepin. 752 

Charlemagne. . . . 7 68 

Louis 1 . Le Debonnaire. . 814 

Charles II. Le Chauve. . 840 

Louis II. Le Segue. . . 877 

Louis III. anti Carloman. 879 

Charles Le Gros (regent) . 8 84 

Eutles. .... 888 

Charles III. Le Simple . 898 

Raoul. 923 

Louis IV. d’Outremer. . 936 

Lothaire.954 

Louis V. 986 

Hugh Capet. . . . 987 

Robert. .... 996 

Henry I.l o31 

Philippe I. ... 1060 

Louis VI. Le Gros. . . 1108 

Louis VII. Le Jeune. . . 11 37 

Philippe II. Auguste. . 1180 

Louis VIII. . . . 1223 

Louis IX. St. Louis. . 1226 

Philippe III. Le Hardi. . 1270 

Philippe IV. Le Bel. . 1285 

Louis X. Le Hutin. . . 1314 

Philippe V. Le Long. . 131 6 

Charles IV. Le Bel. . . 1322 

Philippe VI. De Valois. . 1328 

Jean, Le Bon. . . . 1350 


Charles V. Le Sage . 

A.n. 

1364 

Charles VI. 

1 380 

Charles VII. 

1422 

Louis XI. 

1461 

Charles VIII. 

1483 

Louis XII. 

1498 

Francis I. 

1515 

Henry 11. 

1547 

Francis II. 

1559 

Charles IX. 

1 560 

Henry III. 

1574 

Henry IV. 

1589 

Louis XIII. Le Juste . 

1610 

Louis XIV. Le Grand. 

1643 

Louis XV. 

1715 

Louis XVI. 

1774 

States-General. 

1789 

Constituent Assembly. . 

1789 

Legislative Assembly. 

1791 

Republic and Convention. 

17 92 

Reign of Terror. 

1793 

Directory. 

1795 

Consulate. 

1799 

Napoleon, Emperor . 

1804 

Louis XVIII. Restored. 

1814 

Charles X. ... 

1825 

Louis Philippe. 

1830 

Republic, — L. Napoleon. 

1848 

Napoleon 111. Emperor. . 

1852 


The following is a list of the most remarkable spots in 
Paris, all mentioned in their respective places. (See Index.) 

Places of Historical Note. —House where the illustrious 
Corneille died.—Spot where the Ducde Ben i was assassinated. 
—Rue St. Honore, where Henry IV. was murdered.—House 
wherein Moliere died.—Scene of Fieschi’s Infernal Machine. 
—Street where the Connetable Clisson was waylaid.—Tomb 
of Lafayette.—Tomb of Boilcau.—Hotel where Voltaire died. 
—House where Marat was assassinated by Charlotte Corday. 
—Burial-place of James II.—Spot where Marshal Ney was shot. 
—Old house where Gabrielle, the mistress of Henry IV., lived. 

Scenes of Popular Disturbances. The Champ de Mars.— 
Elysee Napoleon.—Place de la Concorde.—Church of St. Roch. 
—Tuilerics.—Place du Carrousel.—Corner of rues St. Honore 
and Richelieu.—Palais Royal.—Place des Victoires.—Louvre. 
—Pout des Arts.—St. Germain l’Auxerrois.—Church of St. 








50 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Merri.—Rue Transnonain, now rue Beaubourg.—Marche des 
Innocents.—Hotel de Ville.—'Pont d’Arcole.—Notre Dame.— 
Site of Archbishop's Palace.—Palais de Justice.—Temple.— 
Place de la Bastille.—Faubourg St. Antoine.—Porte St. Mar¬ 
tin.—Porte St. Denis.—Faubourg St. Marceau.—Convent des 
Dames Carmelites.—Barracks of rue Babylone. 


am 

GOVERNMENT, CIVIL, MILITARY, AND JUDICIAL. 

By the Senatus-consultum of Nov. 7th, and the subsequent 
decree of Dec. 2, 1852, the Imperial dignity has been revived 
in the person of Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, (1) now Napoleon 
III., who, on Jan. 29, 1853, married the present Empress 
Eugenia, Countess of Teba, (2) daughter to Count de Montijo, 
senator and grandee of Spain. The throne descends to the issue 
of the Emperor, (3) and, in default, to that of the late Prince 
Jerome, his uncle.(4) The members of the Imperial family having 
a right to succeed to the throne, are styled French princes ; 
the first-born of the Emperor has the title of Imperial Prince. 

The EMPEROR governs the country constitutionally, con¬ 
jointly with a Senate, a Legislative Body, and a Council of 
State. He executes the laws, and exercises paternal power 
over all the members of the Imperial family. He appoints the 
senators and presides at the sitt ings both of the Senate and Coun¬ 
cil of State whenever he thinks fit. His civil list comprises the 
dotation of the Crown, which is fixed by a Senatus-consultum 
at the commencement of every reign (it amounts at present to 
25 millions of francs), and all the palaces, museums, libraries, 
and jewels belonging to the State, and which he cannot 
alienate without the sanction of a law. His private domain 
consists of whatever property he may acquire by purchase 
or inheritance, during his reign.—The princes and princesses 
of the Imperial family enjoy an annual dotation of 1,500,000 fr. 

SENATE.—The Senate is the guardian and interpreter of 
the Constitution, and regulates all matters which the latter has 

(1) Born on the 20th of April, 1808. 

( 2 ) Born on the 5th of May, 1826. 

( 3 ) Napoleon Eugene Louis Jean Joseph, Prince Imperial of 
France, born March 1 6th, 1 856. 

( 4 ) Prince Napoleon Joseph Charles Paul, son to Prince 
Jerome, was horn on the pth of Sept. 1822 ; ancl on the 30th 
Jan. 1839 , was married to Princess Ctotilde of Sardinia, horn on 
the 2 d of March 1 843. Their first son, Napoleon Victor Jerome 
Frederic, was born on July 181 h, 1 SG 2 ; and their second, Napo¬ 
leon Louis Joseph Jerome, on July lOth, 1864, 



LEGISLATIVE BODY. 57 

not specially provided for. It may refuse its sanction to laws 
contrary to the Constitution, or endangering the safety of the 
country. It may propose modifications of the Constitution, 
provided they be not at variance with its fundamental prin 
ciples, in which case they must be submitted to the universal 
suffrage of the people. It takes cognizance of petitions. 
The number of Senators is about 170, including the 
French princes, who become members of it from the age 
of 18, the French Cardinals, and the Marshals and 
Admirals of France. The Senators are named for life, 
and receive a dotation of 30,000 fr. per annum. The Em¬ 
peror appoints the President and vice-presidents of the Senate ; 
their functions last one year. The sittings of this body are 
not public. The members of the Senate are divided by lot 
into five bureaux. Each bureau examines the measures laid 
before the Senate, and elects one of its members to sit in a 
commission for the further consideration of the measure in 
question, after which the commission names a reporter. The 
Senate may, however, decide on a measure without referring 
it to the bureaux. It only pronounces on the expediency of 
the promulgation of any bill, either proceeding directly from 
the Government, or previously voted by the Legislative Body, 
r.nd cannot therefore amend it; but it may amend Senatus- 
consultums, either proposed by the Emperor, or originating 
from a Senator. The latter, to be taken into consideration, 
must have been authorised by three at least of the five 
bureaux. No amendment can be taken into consideration 
unless supported by 5 members. Any Senator may move the 
presentation of a report to the Emperor on some subject of 
great national interest. To pass a measure, there must be an 
absolute majority of the members of the Senate present, pro¬ 
vided they exceed one-third of the whole body. To be dis¬ 
cussed, a modification of the Constitution requires the signa¬ 
tures of ten Senators, if the motion originates with a Senator. 
In all debates, the Government is represented either by 
Ministers or by Councillors of State appointed by special de¬ 
cree. There is no secret ballot. The treasury of the Senate 
is in the hands of a Grand Referendaire. 

LEGISLATIVE BODY.—It consists of 292 members, elected 
by universal suffrage, in the proportion of one member for 
every 32,400 electors. The Legislative Body votes or re¬ 
jects the bills presented to it, and the taxes. At its debates the 
Government is represented as in the Senate. Its members 
are distributed by lot into nine bureaux for the preliminary 
consideration of legislative measures. Each bureau elects its 
own president and secretaries for one month. The bureaux 


58 general information. 

proceed in every respect like the bureaux of the Senate. 
Amendments are sent for consideration to the Council of 
State (1) The debates at the sittings of the Legislative Body 
first turn on the bill as a whole, and then on the separate 
articles. The vote is public. The President and vice-pre¬ 
sidents of the Legislative Body are named for a year by the 
Emperor. No minister can be a member of the Legislative 
Body. No petition can be addressed to it. The Emperor 
convokes, adjourns and dissolves it; in which latter case a 
new one must be convoked within 6 months. The sittings of 
the Legislative Body are public. Each deputy is named for G 
years, receiving 12,500 fr. per annum during an ordinary 
session, and 2,500 fr. per month during an extraordinary one. 

The Emperor opens the session with a speech from the 
Throne addressed both to the Senate and Legislative Body. 
The debates in both Houses are reported by stenographers, 
and delivered to the daily newspapers, which have the 
choice either of reproducing the whole, or a part relating 
to the same subject in extenso, or else of publishing a 
short summary which the Presidents send regularly in time 
for the press. 

COUNCIL OF STATE.—This body, the members of which 
are named by the Emperor, and revocable by him, frames 
the bills to be presented to the Legislative Body, under 
the guidance of the Emperor ; as also all regulations of public 
administration. It solves all difficulties which may arise in 
administrative matters. The Emperor or a president or vice- 
president appointed by him presides. It supports the dis¬ 
cussion of the bills presented by the Government to the Senate 
and Legislative Body. The French princes and the ministers 
have the right of sitting and voting in the Council of State, 
but the former only after the age of 18, and with the 
Emperor’s consent. The number of ordinary councillors 
is now forty-four; their salary is 2 5,000 fr. There are 
besides ordinary Councillors not attached to any particular 
section, the number of whom is at present seventeen ; seven 
extraordinary councillors ; forty Masters of Requests, divided 

(l) By a decree of Jan. i9th, i8t>7, members either of the 
Senate or Legislative Body may put questions (interpellaliovs) to 
Government, provided these questions be approved of by two 
bureaux of the Senate or four of the Legislative Body. After 
discussion either Chamber may reject the question by voting the 
“ order of the day,” or else submit it to the consideration of 
Government in the following terms : “ The Senate (or Legisla¬ 
tive Body) calls the attention of Government to the subject of 
the question.” 





MINISTERS. 59 

into two classes of twenty each, and eighty auditors, divided 
into two classes of forty each. A Secretary-General is attached 
to the Council of State. For the better dispatch of business, 
the Council of State is divided into six sections, namely, the 
section of Legislation, Justice, and Foreign Affairs; the section 
of Disputed Affairs ; that of the Interior, Public Instruction, 
and Worship ; that of Public Works, Agriculture, and Com¬ 
merce; that of War and the Marine, Algeria and the Colonies; 
and that of Finance. Each section is presided over by a 
Councillor of State, appointed by the Emperor. 

COUNCIL OF MINISTERS.—This Council is composed of the 
Minister of State and the nine heads of the different state de¬ 
partments. It is presided either by the Emperor, or by the 
Minister of Justice and Keeper of the Seals. The Council 
takes cognizance of all that concerns the general internal 
and external policy, of the Empire. The ministers are only 
responsible to the Emperor, each as regards his department. 
The salary of each minister is 100,000 fr. The 

MINISTER OF STATE corresponds in the name of the 
Government with the Senate, the Legislative Body, and the 
Council of State; he countersigns the decrees for the nomi¬ 
nation of ministers, presidents of the Senate and Legislative 
Body, Senators, &c.; and supports Government measures in 
the debates of the Legislative Body. The Archives and en¬ 
couragements to men of letters and science, are under his 
authority. Residence and office, Place du Carrousel. 

MINISTER OF THE IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD AND THE 
FINE ARTS.—The Imperial Palaces, Public Monuments, Mu¬ 
seums, and Schools of Fine Arts are under his control. 

MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS. —His department em¬ 
braces correspondence with foreign powers, all political and 
commercial treaties, conventions, &c. (1) Residence and office, 
13o, rue de l’Universite (see p. 330.) The offices for passports 
are open daily, holidays excepted, from 11 to 4. The 

MINISTER OF WAR.—86, rue St. Dominique, has the 
army and military establishments under his control. 

MINISTER OF THE MARINE AND COLONIES.—He su¬ 
perintends all that relates to the navy, military ports, and 
Colonies. Residence and office, 2, rue Royale. To this 
department is attached a valuable library of charts, maps, etc., 
kept at 13, rue de l’Universite. 

MINISTER OF FINANCE.—The taxes, national debt, sinking 

(1) This department is divided into four Sections or Directions : 
the Political, the Commercial, the Financial, and that of the 
Archives. The commercial direction has 2s consuls-general, 
$7 consuls, and 773 inferior agents under its control. 



60 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

fund, customs, post-office, mint, forests, national domains, 
and Government manufactories, are under his direction. The 
residence and offices are at 234, rue de Rivoli, where in¬ 
formation about this department is to be had daily, from 
10 to 2. 

MINISTER OF THE INTERIOR.—The duty of this Minister 
is to correspond with the prefects, and all officers attached 
to the internal government of the State, to execute the laws 
of elections, to attend to the organization of the national and 
municipal guards, &c. The Direction de Surete Generate, 
annexed to this department, has the supreme control over the 
police of the Empire (see p. 71.) Residence and offices, 
Place Beauveau, Faubourg St. Ilonore, and 103, Rue de 
Crenelle St. Germain, where the Central Telegraph and a few 
other offices still remain. 

MINISTER OF JUSTICE AND PUBLIC WORSHIP.— 
To this Minister all judges, law officers, &c., are subordinate. 
Letters of pardon, naturalization, &c., are granted by him. 
The direction of the Imperial printing-office also falls within 
his jurisdiction, and he regulates all matters connected with 
Public Worship. Residence and offices, 13, Place Yendome. 
The Cliancellerie de France, belonging to his department, is 
at 36, rue Neuve du Luxembourg. 

MINISTER OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.—This Minister 
superintends the University of France, schools, the Institut 
of France, and various other scientific and literary societies, 
public libraries and museums, &.c. He is also President of 
the Committee for publishing whatever relates to the monu¬ 
ments, arts, or history of France. His residence is at llo, 
rue de Crenelle St. Germain. 

MINISTER OF AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, AND PUB¬ 
LIC WORKS.—This department comprises the regulations 
affecting the customs and commerce, trading companies, 
patents, weights, and measures, agriculture, fairs, markets, 
veterinary establishments, See., as also the supervision of 
bridges and roads, railways, mines, &c. Residence and of¬ 
fices, 62, Rue St. Dominique St. Germain. 

All the ministerial offices are open to claimants and peti¬ 
tioners, having previously inscribed their names on a list kept 
for the purpose, on Thursdays from 2 to 4. An audience of a 
Minister must he applied for in writing. Official receptions 
are announced in the Monileur. The persons employed are 
2,380, receiving 6,500,000 francs annually. (1) Every mi¬ 
nistry has a library, relating to its department. 

(I) The number of functionaries in all France is officially 
staled as followsJustice, n,053 ; Foreign Affairs, 740 ; Pub- 





LEGION D’HONNEUR. 61 

IMPERIAL HOUSEHOLD.—It is regulated by the Minister 
of that department aided by a Council of the chief officers of 
the palace, and consists of a grand almoner, 2 almoners, a 
vicar-general, 4 chaplains, an ecclesiastical master of cere¬ 
monies, a grand marshal and 4 prefects of the palace, a 
governor of the Tuileries, Louvre, and Elysce, one of St. 
Cloud, a grand chamberlain, 11 chamberlains, a private 
secretary, a grand equerry, 14 equerries, a grand veneur and 
7 other officers of the chase, a grand master of ceremonies 
and 6 assistant-masters, 2 treasurers, 25 physicians and sur¬ 
geons, a minister of the military household, an adjutant- 
general, 16 aides-de-camp, and other minor officers.—The 
Empress’s household comprises a grand mistress of the palace, 
a lady of honour and 12 ladies of the palace ; a lady reader, 
3 chamberlains, 2 equerries, See.—The Prince Imperial has a 
tutor, 2 aides-de-camp, and an equerry. —Prince Napoleon’s 
household consists of 2 chamberlains, 1 secretary, 4 aides- 
de-camp, See.; Her Imperial Highness Princess Clotilda, the 
Prince’s consort, and daughter to the King of Italy, has a 
lady of honour and 3 assistant ladies, and two chamberlains. 
—Princess Matilda has a private secretary, a chevalier 
d’honneur, a lady of honour and two assistant ladies. 

ORDRE DE LA LEGION D’HONNEUR.—The Order of the 
Legion of Honour was instituted by a law of 29 Floreal, 
an 10 (1802), and remodelled in 1852, for the recompense of 
civil and military merit, or length of public service. The order 
is administered by a grand chancellor, who keeps the seal, and is 
assisted by a secretary-general and a council of ten members. 
The Emperor is the Grand Master of the Legion,which consists 
of chevaliers, officers, commanders, grand-officers, and grand- 
crosses—all nominated for life. The number of chevaliers is 
unlimited. Foreigners are admitted to the Order, but take no 
oath. The decoration of the Legion is a star, with five double 
rays, surmounted by a crown. The centre of the star con¬ 
tains the effigy of Napoleon, encircled with leaves of oak and 
laurel, with the legend, “ Napoleon, Empereur des Francais .” 
On the reverse is the eagle, with the words, Honneur et Pa- 
irie .” In time of peace to be admitted in the order. “ twenty 
years distinguished services in civil or military functions 5 ’ are 
required. In time of war acts of valour and serious wounds; 
and in time of peace, extraordinary and valuable services of 
any kind may be rewarded with admission or promotion. 
Ali officers, non-commissioned officers, and men of the army 

lie Instruction, 50,000; Interior, 344,000 ; Agriculture, Com¬ 
merce, and Public Works, 10,000 ; War, 30,000 ; Marine, 

13,000 ; Finance, 76,000 ; total, 534 , 800 , exclusive of servants. 





62 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

and navy in active service, nominated or promoted in the 
Legion since the decree of 22d of January, in the year 1852, 
receive annually—as Members 250 fi\, Officers 500 fr., Com¬ 
manders 1 ,ooo fr., Grand Officers 2,000 fr., Grand Crosses 
3,000 fr. Pensions of the same amount are granted to all mi¬ 
litary and naval officers, members of the Legion of Honour, 
placed in retirement after 22d January, 1852. Every sub¬ 
officer or soldier created before 1814, receives 2 50 fr. per 
annum, and the other members according to their rank. The 
quality of member may be forfeited on the same grounds as 
that of French citizen. (1) 

Besides this Order, there is a medal since 1852 for private 
soldiers, with an annual pension of 100 fr. It is also given 
to Marshals and Generals, but without the pension. There is 
also the St. Helena medal, instituted in 1857 for the survivors 
of the Grande Armee of the first Empire. 

Attached to the Order are the establishments for the educa¬ 
tion of the daughters, nieces, and sisters of the members, 
(see p. 102.) The Grand Chancellor resides in the hotel of 
the Order, in the rue de Lille, where the offices also are. 

BUDGET.—The public expenditure for 1809 is estimated at 
1 , 812 , 083 , “236 fr. (21, the Ways and Means at 1,884,247,313 
francs, showing a surplus of 7 2,104,077 fr. 

PUBLIC DEBT.—The funded debt now stands as follows, 
exclusive of pensions and temporary loans for public works: 


4>/ 2 per cent. 37,7 53,035 fr. interest. 

4 percent. *. 44o,09G — 

3 per cent. 307,979,860 — 


Sinking Fund. 122,773,876 — 

Total 408,953,407 — 

NAVY.—From recent returns it appears that the navy of 
France consisted in January, 1808, of 10 iron-clad frigates, 

(1) At the end of 1 867, the Legion was composed of 66 grand- 
crosses, 295 grand officers, l ,500 commanders, 6,ooo officers, and 
54,000 chevaliers. Among the foreign members are 44 crowned 
heads and princes of royal blood, exclusive of the Emperor and 
Imperial princes. No French subject is allowed to wear foreign 
decorations, unless duly authorised by Government. 

(2) This sum is equivalent to £72,483,330. The chief items 
arc: Imperial Household and Fine Arts, ia,i5i,600fr.; dotations, 
-4 9,002,280 fr.; Legion of Honour, 18,134 ,159 fr.; Ministry of 
Slate, 3 , 172,400 fr.; Justice, 33,356,265 fr.; Foreign Affairs, 
13,164,200 fr.; Public Instruction, 23,6«3,321 fr.; Public Wor- 
ship, 48,81 8,531 fr. ; Interior, 59,981,235 fr.; Agriculture, Com¬ 
merce, and Public Wot is, 90,837,003 fr.; War, 381 , 694,532 fr.; 
Marine, 163,237,752 fr.; Finances, 51 8,3 1 5,5-24 fr. 














MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT. 63 

12 wooden men-of-war, three iron-clad corvettes,, 17 wooden 
screw-steamers; 70 do. corvettes, advice- and gun-boats; 
73 steam-transports, 2 men-of-war for naval schools, 2 6 
guard-ships and floating batteries; 1 o 1 other steamers, 2 
monitors bought in America; 20 sailing-transports, and 50 
small craft. These 389 vessels carry about g, 300 guns, and 
are manned by about 30,000 sailors and marines. (1) The 
ships on active service are about 150 in time of peace. (2) 

MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT.—The French army has been 
placed on an entirely new footing by the law of the 1st of 
February, 18 68. By this law the whole military force of 
France is divided into the Active or Regular Army , and the 
Garde Nationale Mobile. 

Regular Army. —The duration of military service in this 
force is nine years, the four last being passed in the Reserve. 
The men belonging to the latter category can on’y he called 
out in time of war by an Imperial decree : they can marry 
without permission from the military authorities. A special 
fund, called the Dotation de VArmee, secures pensions to 
officers and soldiers after 25 years' service. (3) 

The regular French army, including 65,7 00 men in Algeria, 
forms at present a total of 400,000 men and about 90,000 
horses. The strength of the different branches is nearly as 
follows: Infantry, 270,000 men ; cavalry, 70,000 ; artil- 
! lery, 40,000 ; engineers, 9,000 ; drivers, 7,000 ; other ser¬ 
vices, 4,000. There are 10 Marshals, of France, 92 Generals 
| of Division, and 160 Generals of Brigade. (4) 

Garde Nationale Mobile. —This is a kind of Landwehr, 
after the Prussian model, and can only be called out in time 
of war in virtue of a special law, for the defence of the 
fortresses, coasts, and frontiers of the Empire, and for the 
maintenance of public order in the interior. The men may, 
nevertheless, he assembled in their respective departments 20 
days before the bill for calling out the force is laid before the 

(1) There are 2 admirals, 17 vice-admirals, 30 rear-admirals, 
130 captains of men of war, 270 captains of frigates, 750 lieu¬ 
tenants, and 600 mates in the French navy. The French mer¬ 
cantile navy consists of 15,092 vessels, measuring together 
983,235 tons. A French sailor costs 433 fr. per annum, exclu¬ 
sive of pay, which varies between 292 fr. and 438 fr. 

( 2 ) To complete the French fleet, 63 ships more are in course 
of construction, viz., 12 iron-clad frigates, 23 corvettes, advice* 
and gun-boats, 4 guard-ships, and 24 small steamers. 

(3) The assets of this fund amount at present lo about 
3 CO,ooo,ooo fr.; its liabilities to 270 , 000,000 fr. 

( 4 ) The value of the stores of the War department amounts fa 
C 12 millions of francs. 





64 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Corps Legislatef. They are drilled in their own cantons at 
stated periods, not exceeding 15 in the course of a year, and 
not for more than a day at a time. The force is organised 
by departments into battalions, companies, and batteries. 
With very few exceptions, all those who have escaped the 
ordinary conscription, are bound to serve five years in the 
Garde Nationale Mobile, but receive no pay except when in 
active service. The effective force of the Garde Nationale 
Mobile is calculated at about 550,000 men, which, added to 
the regular army and reserve makes up a total of 1,200,000 
men in time of war. 

The Garrison of Paris is now about 30,000 men.— General 
Staff, 7 , Place Vendome. Court Martial, 37, rue du 
Cherche-Midi. The Emperor’s body-guard, called Cent 
Gardes a Cheval, consists of a lieutenant-colonel, and 221 
men, officers included. The Garde Imperiale consists of 
8 regiments of infantry (3 of grenadiers, 4 of voltigeurs, 1 
of zouaves,) and a battalion of chasseurs ; 6 regiments of 
cavalry, one of gendarmes (foot), and a squadron of mounted 
gendarmes; 16 batteries of artillery, 2 companies of drivers, 
and 2 of engineers. In field service and ceremonies, these 
troops have precedence over all, except the Cent Gardes. 

Garde Nationale Sedentairk. —By a decree of January 
ll, 1852, all Frenchmen between 25 and 50 are liable to 
serve in this force, which is under the control of the mayors, 
sous-prefets, prefets, and the Minister of the Interior. It 
differs from the Garde Nationale Mobile in this, that it is per¬ 
manently employed in time of peace for the maintenance of 
public order in each individual township or canton, is never 
bound to quit it, and generally speaking, receives no pay. 
All officers, from the lieutenants upwards, are named by the 
Emperor; the lower grades are under the nomination of the 
majors or chefs de bataillon. The legions, or battalions may 
be dissolved and re-organised at will by the Government. At 
present the national guard of Paris, including the banlieue, is 
composedof 52 battalions of foot, and six squadrons of cavalry, 
in all about 40,000 men. It has no artillery. Staff, No. 22, 
Place Vendome. (1) The charges to the City for rent, guard¬ 
houses, staff, musicians, clerks, &c., are about 900,000 fr. 

Garde de Paris. —A section of the police force under the 
Minister of War. It comprises 2,229 foot, and 663 horse. 

Gendarmerie. —This force, which is under the orders of 
the Prefect of Police, is composed of 2 legions, 1 for Paris, 
and 1 for the department of the Seine. It is composed of 4,441 

(0 In March 1848, the national guard amounted to 241 ,884 men. 





COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. 65 

officers, sub-officers, and privates, including 613 horse, and 
is entrusted with the maintenance of the public peace. (1) 

Sergents de Ville.— These are the municipal police, and 
organised somewhat on the London system. (2) 

Sapeurs Pompiers. —The firemen of Paris, consisting of 
a regiment of 2,000 men, are organised on a military footme, 
and under the orders of the War department; but in case of 
fires, they obey the orders of the Prefect of Polite. (3) A 
portion are on duty every evening at the theatres, Sec. 

COURTS, TRIBUNALS, &c.—The Minister of Justice is the 
supreme head of all the judicial courts in the State and their 
officers (see p. 60). 

High Court of Justice. —This Court, established in virtue 
of art. 54 of the Constitution of January 1852, judges, with¬ 
out appeal or remedy by cassation, the persons accused of 
crimes or conspiracies against the Emperor and the security of 
the State. It cannot take cognizance of any case without a spe¬ 
cial decree of the Emperor. It is composed of a Chambre des 
mises en accusation , a Cha>nore de Jugement, and a high 
jury composed of 36 members of the Councils-general of the 
departments. Each chamber is composed of 5 judges and 2 
deputy-judges, annually appointed by the Emperor. 

Court of Cassation, Palais de Justice.—There is but one 
Court of Cassation for the whole empire. It is the supreme 
Court of Appeal on all points of law only, and its power is 
confined to annulling the decisions of the courts appealed 
from. When, therefore, a cause comes by appeal before the 

(1) The whole Gendarmerie of France is composed of twenty- 
seven legions. 

(2) The force comprises : One commissary of police, head of the 
service, salary s2,Ooo fr. ; one deputy, witli s,ooo fr.. and a sub¬ 
chief, with 3,5oo fr., but which may be increased to 5,ooo fr. ; 
20 clerks, from 4,ooo fr. to 2,7oo fr. ; 4 inspectors-general,’ 
6,000 fr.; 32 officiers de paix, from 3,000 fr. to 6,00o ; 16 prin¬ 
cipal inspectors, 2,5oo fr.; 78 brigadiers, 1,800 fr. ; 427 sub- 
brigadiers, 1,600 fr.; 3,676 sergens de ville, from t,2oo fr. to 
I,5oOfr.; 32i auxiliaries, 3 fr. a-day; one head physician, 
3,500 fr.; and I 2 > ther medical men, 1 ,600 fr. In all, 4 , 590 ’ 
police agents, being an increase of 1,017 since the annexation of 
the banlieue. There are also 26 agents attached to the service 
of control at the Prefecture of Police. These wear a metal badge 
under their coats, to prove their quality. 

( 5 ' The sapeurs pompiers are efficient soldiers no less than ac¬ 
tive firemen, and are carefully drilled and trained in gymnastics. 
Medals are annually awarded to such as have distinguished them¬ 
selves by their exenions and good conduct. The annual cost to 
the State of the Sapturs. Pompiers is 575,399 fr. 

i 




66 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Court of Cassation, it is not at once determined there, hut 
sent down for decision to another court of the same degree with 
that from which it has come. The time allowed for appeal, in 
civil matters, is three months; in criminal matters, and breach 
of police regulations, only three days. 

The Court of Cassation is composed of a president, 3 vice- 
presidents, and 45 counsellors. It is divided into 3 chambers, 
of requests , of civil, and criminal appeal. In civil cases 
the appeal first comes before the Chambre des Requdtes , 
where the appellant only is heard; and if admitted by that 
chamber, it passes to the Chambre Civile. Attached to it 
are a procureur-imperial, 6 avocats-generaux, a chief registrar, 
besides 4 under-registrars. A college oi 60 advocates has the 
exclusive right of pleading in this court. The 2 civil sections 
have a vacation, .from September 1 to November 1, but the 
criminal section always continues sitting. 

Cour des Comptes, Palais du Quai d’Orsay.—This court 
is the next in rank to that of Cassation. It consists of a 
chief president, 3 presidents, and 18 masters of accounts, 
who form the chambers; there are besides 84 conseillers re¬ 
fer endaires, who examine the accounts and report thereon, 20 
auditors, a procureur-general, and a registrar. It is divided 
into 3 sections or chambers, whose jurisdiction extends over 
the whole receipts and expenditure of the country. 

Cour Imperiale de Paris, Palais de Justice.—This is one of 
the twenty-seven courts of appeal in France. It hears ap¬ 
peals from the Tribunals of First Instance and of Commerce of 
Paris and of six of the surrounding departments. The court is 
composed of a first president, six presidents, and 59 councillors, 
and attached to it are a procureur-imperial, six advocates- 
general, 11 deputy advocates-general, and a registrar. It is 
divided into six chambers, four of which are for the trial of 
appeals in civil cases, one for the appeals from the Tribunal 
de Police Correctionelle, and one which sits in private and 
deliberates on the criminal charges referred to it by the 
Chambre du Conseil of the Tribunal of First Instance, dis¬ 
missing the charge or directing the mise en accusation before 
the Cour d’Assise. The latter is composed of a president and 
four assessors, councillors of the Cour Imperiale, appointed 
by the Keeper of the Seals, and is for the trial of offences 
entailing the punishment of death, hard labour, etc. The 
Court of Assize is the only court in which trial by jury pre¬ 
vails (1). It sits daily from 9 till 12, holidays excepted. 

(1) On an average the Courts of Assize throughout all France 
hear 4000 cases, about 1700 of which are offences against the 
person; and 230o are crimes against property, including about 



COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. 67 

Tribunal de Premiere Instance de la Seine, Palais de 
Justice.—A Court of original jurisdiction, to which all 
causes are first taken, except those only assigned to the juges 
de paix, and the Tribunal de Commerce. It decides without 
appeal in actions relating to the person or to personal property, 
to the amount of 1,500 fr., and in real actions, where the 
rent is not more than GO fr. It hears also appeals from juges 
de paix. Its jurisdiction comprises the whole department of 
the Seine, and is composed of 1 president, 8 vice-presidents, 
55 judges (18 examining, 12 supplementary) a procureur- 
imperial, 23 deputy procureurs, and 43 sworn registrars. 
It is divided into 10 chambers, 5 of which take cognisance of 
civil matters, 3 of police cases, one of civil and criminal 
cases judged in the Chambre du Conseil, and one of cases of 
expropriation. The court sits every day except Sundays 
and Mondays. Vacation from Sept. 1 to Nov. 1.(1) 

Tribunal de Commerce, opposite the Palais de Justice._ 

The judges of this court are heads of mercantile houses, elected 
for two years at a meeting of commergants notables ( influ¬ 
ential merchants), the list of whom is drawn up by the pre¬ 
fect, and approved by the Minister of the Interior. It cannot 
contain less than 25 members in a provincial town of 15,000 
inhabitants; but in Paris, and other large towns it must con¬ 
tain at least one member more for every additional thousand. 
No one can be elected a judge under the age of 30, nor unless 
he be a merchant of at least 5 years’ standing. The tribunal 
is composed of a president, 14 judges, and 16 deputy judges. 
It has a registrar, 6 under-registrars, and 4 huissiers. (2) 

Tribunal of Simple Police, Palais de Justice.—The justices 

i 300 burglaries. The number of crimes against the person is 
about 20oo, and of those against property, 3000 . 

(1) The civil tribunals throughout all France hear about 
150,000 law-suits per annum; about 30,000 are judged by 
default, and about as many are amicably settled. The number 
of law-suits registered averages 155 , 000 ; and the number of 
sentences on matters of seizure of landed property, expropria¬ 
tions of ground for public utility, etc., is about iG,5oo. Ninc- 
tenths of the cases of judicial separation between husband and 
wife originate with the latter. 

(2) The number of cases annually brought before the Tri¬ 
bunal of Commerce is on an average G 8 . 000 . Of these, about 
four-fifths are judged, and the remainder are either settled 
by conciliation, or withdrawn, except a few that stand over for 
the following year. There are about 1000 commercial or joint- 
stock companies formed every year, each representing an average 
capital of 80,000 fr. The number of bankruptcies averages 1700 
per annum. 




68 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

of the peace sit here in rotation, and decide upon the breach of 
police regulations where the penalty does not exceed five days’ 
imprisonment, or a fine of 15 fr. A commissary of police acts 
as counsel for the prosecution. Appeal may be made to the 
Tribunal de Premiere Instance. 

Juges de Paix. —There is one for each of the twenty Ar- 
rondissements of Paris. Their jurisdiction is three-fold. 
They form what is called a Bureau de Conciliation, to under¬ 
stand which it is necessary to bear in mind that no action 
can be brought until the complaining party has summoned 
the defendant before the juge de paix, whose duty it is to 
try to effect a reconciliation. They have jurisdiction without 
appeal when the ground of action does not exceed 100 fr. 
in value, and jurisdiction subject to appeal in all personal 
actions to the value of 200 fr.,and in actions between landlords 
of hotels and lodging-house keepers and travellers and tenants, 
for hotel expenses and loss or damage of effects, etc. They 
decide without appeal to 100 fr., and with appeal to 1,500 fr. 
They sit at the mairie of each arrondisseraent (see p. 71). 

Advocates. —The order of advocates comprises 900 mem¬ 
bers. They have a bureau for gratuitous advice to the poor, 
open on Saturdays, from 1 till 4, at the Palais de Justice. 

AvouEs.—The avoues, 210 in number, are licentiates in 
civil law, and act as solicitors and attorneys ; in certain cases 
they have the right of pleading; and are subject to a chamber 
of discipline, they take the oath of an advocate. 

Notaries. —The number of Paris Notaries, who exercise 
their profession within the jurisdiction of the court of appeal, is 
122; they draw up wills, leases, mortgages, title-deeds of es¬ 
tates, and other deeds; they give security to the government, 
and, on retirement or death, their places can be sold. Their cham¬ 
ber of discipline meets at 1, Place du Chatelet, every Friday. 

Huissiers. —These officers, 150 in number, fulfil the duties 
of sheriff’s officers, attached to the different tribunals, and their 
services are required in protesting bills, &c. 

Commissaires Priseurs (appraisers and auctioneers).— 
Their number in Paris is fixed at 80. They have the ex¬ 
clusive privilege of appraising and selling by auction, and are 
under the jurisdiction of theProcureur Imperial. 

Conseils des Prod’hommes, or Councils of Arbitrators, (l) 

(1) Arbitration in matters of trade dates in France from very 
early times. Prud’hommes were named by the lung, for a speci¬ 
fied time, or permanently, to exercise vigilance over certain 
manufactures, to fix prices, &c. In certain maritime districts 
the fishermen used annually to elect Prud’hommes to examine 
their accounts and settle their differences. 


CIVIL ADMINISTRATION. 60 

—These councils are instituted for the purpose of amicably 
settling disputes about wages, &c., between masters and their 
dependants, in order principally to obviate strikes and other 
irregularities. By the law of 1853, the councils of prud'- 
hommes are composed of masters and foremen of a certain 
trade, elected by their peers. Masters, being French subjects, 
aged 25 or upwards, of 5 years’ standing, and 3 years’ domi¬ 
cile within the jurisdiction of the Council, are electors for the 
master-prud’hommes; foremen and workmen, under the same 
circumstances, are electors for the foremen prud’hommes. All 
electors aged 30 and upwards, and skilled in reading and 
writing, are eligible. The masters and foremen are equally 
balanced in the council, which must consist of 6 members at 
least. One half of the council is renewed every second year. 
Their presidents and vice-presidents are named by the Empe¬ 
ror, and may be selected from among persons that are not 
eligible as members. They remain 3 years in office, but may 
be confirmed anew. The different trades of Paris have been 
divided into four classes, namely, the metal trades, weav¬ 
ing, chemical preparations, and articles of Paris manufac¬ 
ture. These councils decide the most intricate questions with 
speed by the custom of the trade, generally to the satisfaction 
of both parties. These questions relate to counterfeits, indem¬ 
nities, apprenticeships, the condition of children working in 
factories, hours of labour, and wages. The judgments are 
without appeal for sums not exceeding 200 fr. ; if above that 
sum, an appeal lies to the Tribunal of Commerce. The 
Emperor may dissolve the councils at any time. They meet 
at the Tribunal de Commerce (see p. 306). (1) 

CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF PARIS.—Offices at the Hotel 
de Ville, open from 10 to 5. The Prefect of the Seine is the 
chief municipal authority in the capital. Besides the duties 
common to the other prefects of the empire, he exercises nearly 
all the functions of an English mayor. He superintends all 
public works, establishments, churches, streets and public 
ways, barracks, excise duties, markets, hospitals, benevolent 
institutions, direct taxes, public fetes, Chamber of Commerce, 
and domains of the State within the department. He also pre¬ 
sents to the municipal council the estimates for the coming 
year. Under him is a Council of Prefecture, composed of 5 
members, and a secretary-general, with a municipal and de¬ 
partmental Commission composed of 68 more, provision- 

(1) The number of cases annually brought before these coun¬ 
cils averages 4,ooo, about two thirds of which relate to wages. 
They are generally settled by conciliation; the judgments rarely 
amount to more than a hundred, and appeals seldom occur. 



70 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

ally named by the government. The members of this com¬ 
mission are also those of the Council-general of the depart¬ 
ment, comprising 8 more for Sceaux and St. Denis. Those 
of each arrondissement form its municipal council, and as 
such are subject to the control of the council-general. 

Communal and Departmental Administration. —Under 
this head are comprised four principal divisions. The First 
Division has a bureau for legalizations, patents, translations 
of foreign documents, sales, purchases and salaries; one for 
elementary schools, boarding-schools for young ladies, the 
salles d’asile for infancy, ouvroirs, (see p. 102) learned socie¬ 
ties, the City library, and religious affairs ; (2) a third for 
commerce and statistics, the Bourse, joint-stock companies, 
Prud’hommes, and the Chamber of Commerce (see p. 100 ); a 
fourth bureau for the organization of the National Guard, 
houses of correction, barracks for the Gendarmerie, Sapeurs- 
Pompiers, 8tc-., also guard-houses, recruiting, 8cc.; and a fifth 
for public festivals, Sec.—The Second Division comprises a 
bureau for inscription and delivery of deeds, the archives of 
the civil department, the installation of municipal councils, 
the nomination of maires in the communes of more than 6000 
inhabitants, presentation of candidates for various functions 
and the Legion of Honour, statistics, administration of rural 
communes, expenses of the mairies, sale and purchase of land, 
burials and verifications of deaths; a second bureau has the 
direction of the octroi, public weights and measures, the 
letting of stands in the streets and public walks, coach-stands, 
slaughter-houses, and the butchers’ trade. The third bureau 
superintends the hospitals and asylums of the Seine ; the Mont 
de Piete, foundlings, lunatics, wet-nurses, vaccination, ton¬ 
tines, and encouragement to charitable institutions. The fourth 
bureau is devoted to mortgage inscriptions, national property, 
fisheries, national pension list, sale of unclaimed articles found 
in the streets, expenses of prosecution under the game-laws, 5cc. 
The fifth has the compilation of the electoral and jury lists, 
the division of electoral colleges, the verification and publica¬ 
tion of the results of elections of Deputies to the Legisla¬ 
te) The Comite Central d’InstrucAion Primairc is composed of a 
president, vice-president, 2 secretaries, all the members of the 
municipal commission who reside in Paris, and 9 members be¬ 
sides, among whom are the senior mayor and the senior curate 
of Paris, the Grand Rabbi, and 2 pastors of the Lutheran and Re¬ 
formed Churches. This committee has the inspection of all pri¬ 
mary schools, and nominates or revokes communal masters. 
Resides this, there is a committee of primary instruction in each 
of the 20 arrondissemenls, under the presidency of the mayor. 


ADMINISTRATION OF THE POLICE. 71 

tive Body, of members of councils-general, mayors, &c. 
—The Third Division has a bureau for the maintenance of 
canals and rivers, roads, bridges, railways, mills, manufacto¬ 
ries, and cleanliness of streets ; a second bureau for the canals 
of the Ourcq, St. Denis, and St. Martin; for hydraulic ma- 

I chines, distribution of water and gas, fountains, sewers, street- 
pavements, foot-paths, and plantations ; a third for the direc¬ 
tion of the plan of Paris, the widening of streets, expropria¬ 
tions, the naming of streets, numbering of houses, and expenses 
relating to these various subjects; and a fourth bureau com¬ 
prising the execution of public works; the granting permissions 
for building, regulations pertaining thereto, building and repair¬ 
ing the Hotel de Ville, churches, prisons, and colleges, slaughter¬ 
houses, markets, the Palais de Justice, and the cemeteries of 
Paris.—The Fourth Division has a bureau for the collection and 
imposition of the taxes, &c.; another for the verification of the 
lists of tax-payers, the reduction of taxes, &e.; a third for the 
compilation of the budget of the department, pensions, accounts 
of the treasurers of benevolent institutions and the octroi; and 
a fourth for the liquidation of expenses ordered by the Prefect, 
orders for payment, and accounts of the department. 

The offices of the Treasurer of the City of Paris are at the 
Motel de Ville.—The financial service of the Department of the 
Seine is conducted by the following administrations:— Direction 
de VEnregistrement et des Domaines, rue Neuve de la Banque. 
— Direction des Contributions Directes, 9, rue Poulletier, lie 
St. Louis. The Administration of the Customs, 2, rue de 
Luxembourg.— Direction of Indirect Taxes, 12, rue Duphot. 
—Direction des Droits d ' Octroi , at the Hotel de Ville.— 
Recette Centrale du Departement , 24, rue Mont-Thabor.— 
Direction de la Poste aux Clievaux, 2, rue Pigale. 

To each of the arrondissements of St. Denis and Sceaux there 
is a sub-prefect, with a Conseil d’Arrondissement. 

Mairies. —Each of the 20 arrondissements of Paris (see their • 
list at p. 4) is headed by a mayor and one or two deputy 
mayors, whose principal functions relate to births, marriages, 
and deaths. The prefect of the department is the chief mayor. 
Offices open daily from 9 till 4, on week days. The mayors 
or deputy-mayors sit every day from 12 till 2. 

Timbre Imperial. —Bureaux for the distribution of stamped 
paper are established in the different quarters of Paris, besides 
the central office, 9, rue Neuve de la Banque. 

Electors. — The electoral law of February 2, 1852, 
gives the right of suffrage to every Frenchman born, or 
foreigner naturalized, of the age of 21 and upwards, on condi¬ 
tion of a 6 months’ residence in the commune in which he is 



72 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

to vote. Persons who have suffered condemnation for crimes 
and certain offences specified by law are excluded. Soldiers 
only vote when present in the commune to which they be¬ 
long. Electors of the age of 2 5 and upwards are eligible to the 
Legislative Body. The department of the Seine is divided 
into 9 electoral circumscriptions, each of which returns a 
member. The number of electors inscribed is about 340,000. 

Jurors. — By the law of 1853, a juror must be 30 years of 
age at least, and in the full enjoyment of his civil and political 
rights. The high functionaries of the state and those belong¬ 
ing to the police or customs’ department, ecclesiastics, school¬ 
masters, domestics, illiterate persons, and such as have under¬ 
gone certain condemnations, are excluded from the jury-list. 
Septuagenarians and workmen are exempted. The annual jury- 
list of the department of the Seine contains 2000 jurors. Per¬ 
sons refusing or neglecting to serve on the jury are liable to a 
fine of from 200 to 500 fr. 

ADMINISTRATION OF THE POLICE.— Prefecture de 
Police, rue du Harlay, Quai des Orfevres.—Offices open 
every day from 9 till 4. The Bureau de Surete is open night 
and day. The authority of the prefect extends over the whole 
of the department of the Seine, the district of St. Cloud, Sevres, 
and Meudon, in the department of the Seine-et-Oise, and mar¬ 
ket of Poissy. He is under the authority of the minister of 
the Interior. He is president of a Conseil de Salubrite, 
composed of 20 members, all physicians, surgeons, or chemists, 
specially entrusted with the superintendence of the sanitary re¬ 
gulations of the capital, the cleanliness of streets, markets, 
sewers, &c. It holds its sittings every other Friday at the 
Prefecture (1). The Secretariat-General has a bureau for trans¬ 
lations of documents, legalization of the signatures of the princi¬ 
pal functionaries of the Police-department, statutes of joint-stock 
companies, statistics, and nomination and discharge of police- 
officials. A second bureau has the management of the Garde 
de Paris and Sapeurs-Pompiers, the surveillance of theatres, 
and public balls, societies, hawkers, bill-stickers, public festivals, 
apprehension of deserters, smugglers, and control over societies 
of mutual assistance. Lastly, a third bureau is entrusted with 
the reprinting of ordonnances, the restoration of articles lost or 
seized, and the treasury of the Prefecture. Besides the Secre¬ 
tariat-General, there are 2 divisions, the first of which has a bu¬ 
reau for the detective service, repression of vagrjmcy, and 
classification of the sentences of the criminal courts; a second 
bureau for passports, pennis de sdjour, licences for fire-arms, 

(l) There is a Comite de Salubrite Publique in each arrondiss©- 
ment, connected with Hie Conseil , 


ADMINISTRATION OF TIIE POLICE. 73 

furnished hotels, livrets of servants and workmen, Sec.; a third 
for prisons; a fourth bureau for prosecution of persons ar¬ 
rested on an order from departmental authorities, liberated 
convicts, or persons to be sent to an hospital; a fifth bu¬ 
reau for licences to prostitutes, the surveillance, over maisons 
de tolerance, the search after persons who have disappeared 
from their homes, the Mont de Piete, public sales, strikes among 
workmen, suicides, accidental deaths, lotteries, and gaming¬ 
houses, lastly, a sixth for the insane, children abandoned by 
their parents, orphans, nurses, and maisons de sante.—The 
second Division lias a bureau for the inspection of markets, 
Sec., the deposits of grain by bakers, the bread-assize, the de¬ 
struction of unwholesome victuals exposed for sale, the Bourse, 
brokers and workmen of the balles, the verification of weights 
and measures, the surveillance of ports, canals, floating manu¬ 
factories on the river, steamers, wine and coal-merchants. A 
second bureau is for the demolition of houses, and for other 
works to be executed in the streets, the emptying of sewers, 
the numbering of houses, public thoroughfares, pedlars and 
itinerant venders. The third has the surveillance of the clean¬ 
ing, watering, and lighting of streets, sewers, aqueducts, and 
fountains, public carriages and wagons. The fourth and last is 
for dangerous or noisome establishments, breweries, locomo¬ 
tives, fireworks, public health, exhumation of bodies, ceme¬ 
teries, and the hours of labour in manufactories.—The Garde de 
Paris, in cases of fire, is under the Prefect of Police. During 
the night the sergents de ville patrol the streetsevery half hour. 
They are also stationed at the theatres, concert and ball¬ 
rooms. (t) Connected with the Police are the following : 

Commissaires de Police. —In each of the eighty quartiers 
of Paris resides a commissary of police, who superintends 
its cleanliness and lighting; takes cognizance of misdemeanors; 
makes the first examination of crimes and offences; delivers 
certificates to obtain passports upon the attestation of two 
householders. The commissaries attend to all the complaints 
the public may have to make. Their residence is known at 
night by a square lantern of red glass hung at the door. 

Bureau de Verification des Poids et Mesures, rue de la 
Coutellerie.—New weights and measures are stamped at this 
office before they can be used in commerce; and inspectors 
verify every year those in use by tradesmen. 

(i) The expenses of the Prefecture of Police amount to about 
12 , 000,000 fr., towards which the Slate contributes a sum of 
5 , 207,000 fr. The central administration comprises 280 employes. 
Of the so commissaries of Police, 24 receive 6000 francs a-year, 
the rest 5,4oo francs a-year. 


74 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Secours aux Noyes et Asphyxies. —Witnesses of accidents 
on the Seine and elsewhere are bound to afford the first aid, 
and to call the nearest physician or surgeon, or to make it 
known to the nearest military post or commissary of police. A 
reward of 2 5 fr. is given to any one who gets to shore a drown¬ 
ing person, if restored to life; and 15 fr. in case of death. 
About eighty sets of apparatus for restoring suspended anima¬ 
tion are deposited on the banks of the Seine (1). 

La Morgue, behind Notre Dame.—This is a place in which 
the bodies of unknown persons who have met with acci¬ 
dental death are deposited for three days. They are laid 
upon inclined slabs of black marble, twelve in number, open 
to the inspection of the public, in order that they may be re¬ 
cognized by those interested in their fate. Their clothes are 
hung up near them, as an additional means of recognition. 
If not claimed, they are buried at the public expense. The 
bodies are separated from the public by glass screens. 

PRISONS.—It was not until 1670 that improvements were 
introduced into the prisons of Paris. Under Louis XVI, 
M. de Malesherbes separated lunatics and political offenders 
from criminals ; other improvements contemplated by 
M. Necker were interrupted by the Revolution.. On Sept. 29, 
1791, a law was passed which established houses d’arrtt, of 
justice, and detention. All other prisons were prohibited, and 
mildness towards the prisoners was enjoined. The execution 
of the measure was scarcely begun, when the system of 
terror filled the prisons with those who ought to have been for 
ever strangers to them. The 9th Thermidor put an end to that 
state of things; and public opinion loudly demanded a change 
in the system. In 1795, by a decree of the Convention, sepa¬ 
rate prisons were appointed for the different classes of offenders, 
and the penal code enacted. The improvement of the prisons 
has since occupied the attention of the municipality of Paris and 
of the government; and the new buildings now produce satis¬ 
factory results. All the prisons of Paris are annually visited by 
a Commission selected from among the members of the Coun¬ 
cil-General. The conveyance of prisoners from one depot to 
another is performed by means of cellular vehicles. 

(t) The number of medals annually given for saving the lives 
of persons averages 1230. About one in thirty of these medals 
is gold, the others in silver. The number of persons annually 
saved is about 1000 . The annual average for the last ten years 
of the number of dead bodies exposed at the Morgue is 334 , 
viz., 233 men, 52 women, and 49 new-born infants. The 
Morgue (from morguer, to scrutinise), was formerly a police- 
prison in the Petit Chatelet (see p. 307 «,). The annual average 
of suicides in France is 2 , 600 . 


PRISONS. 75 

The prisons of Paris under the jurisdiction of the Prefect of 
Police are seven in number, viz. for persons under accusation 
or trial; political offences and others liable to only t year’s 
imprisonment; for those who have suffered condemnation to 
death or to the hulks; and females. Besides these there is 
1 military prison, under the jurisdiction of the Minister of 
War.. In most of the penal prisons the criminals are allowed 
books and writing-materials; (1) they are bound to observe the 
religious duties of their respective creeds; meals are in common; 
work is obligatory, but permission may be obtained to exercise 
a particular trade. They may receive visits from their families. 
Men receive 7 50 gr. (1 */ 2 lb.) of bread a-day; women 700 gr. (2) 
For permission to visit any of the prisons (3), application must 
be made by letter to M. le Prefet de Police, a la Prefecture. 
It is, however, but rarely granted. 

A prison, important both for its size and its historical asso¬ 
ciations, la Force, (see p. 273,) has been replaced by the 

Prison Modele, or Nouvelle Force, boulevard Mazas, 
opposite the Lyons railroad. This prison is constructed 
on the well-known cellular system. A semicircular building 
forms a centre, to which converge six large wings, each con¬ 
sisting of a ground floor and two stories of 7 0 cells each ; so 
that every wing contains 210 cells, and the whole structure 
1260. A round hall of observation occupies the central body, 
and communicates with the long internal corridors which in 
each wing separate the two rows of cells from one another. 
In this rotunda is the altar, of white marble, placed on a cir¬ 
cular platform supported by 8 Doric columns. Around the 
frieze is the following inscription: Gaudium erit in coelo su- 

(l) Most of the prisons have libraries for the prisoners. 

12 ) The daily supply of bread to all the prisons amounts lo 
700 kilogs. of while, and 3,4oo kilogs. of brown bread. 

(3) There are in France 385 prisons [maisons d’arret), and 23 
maisons centrales; they are occupied by about 7 i,ooo individuals; 
about 22,000 falling to the share of the maisons centrales. 
There is at present but one bagne, where formats or convicts 
are kept; viz., at Toulon; all the others have been gra¬ 
dually cleared, and the convicts sent to the penal settle¬ 
ment at Cayenne. The work done by the prisoners in the 
maisons centrales amounts to about 4,ooo,ooo fr., of which 
about one-fourth by women. The women are employed in 
needle-work, glove, fringe, and lace-making, &c.; the men in 
tailoring, shoe-making, cabinet-making, etc. The produce of 
prison labour in the department of the Seine amounts to 
about 500,000 fr., the gain per day being from 1 fr. 5 c. lo 2 fr. 
i 4 c. The general average is 11 1/2 c. The produce is divided 
equally between the prisoners and the administration; the latter 
concedes its part to contractors fora certain sum daily. 


76 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

per uno peccatore poenitentiam agente , quam super nona - 
yinta novem justis qui non indigent poenitentia . From this 
altar, which is approached by a bridge communicating with the 
lower gallery which runs around the circular hall, the keeper 
may survey at a glance the 6 galleries which extend from it 
as from a centre. Each gallery has 2 wooden balconies esta¬ 
blishing a communication with the cells of each story, and con¬ 
nected with one another by bridges. The warders in the 
galleries may communicate with the rotunda by speaking-tubes 
fixed in the walls. Every cell has a bed, gas-burner and water- 
closet, and communicates with an apparatus intended both for 
ventilation and the distribution of warm air. When a prisoner 
is in want of something, he pulls at an iron knob, which causes 
an iron blade to project outside, on seeing which, the warder 
stationed in the gallery immediately attends to him. The door 
of each cell has a small opening closed by a shutter, from 
which food is passed into the cell at meal-times. The warder 
may, besides, by turning a knob, open unobserved a small 
hole in the door, through which he may see what the prisoner 
is about. Besides these ordinary cells, there are cells of pu¬ 
nishment in each gallery, where unruly prisoners are shut up 
with nothing but a straw-mattress, in total darkness. Each 
cell is about 12 feet long by 6 in breadth. There is a parloir 
for each gallery on the ground floor, where persons who have 
obtained permission from the prefecture may converse with 
the prisoner they call for. These parloirs contain 7 stalls 
each, with iron grates, where the prisoners are introduced 
without the possibility of seeing or communicating with one 
another; opposite these are 7 cells for the visitors, also grated; 
a keeper walks between these two rows during the conversa¬ 
tion, so that no paper or other suspicious article can change 
hands. There are also a guard-room, a cantine where prisoners, 
by means of the keeper, may buy what food they like be¬ 
sides the prison-fare, a dispensary for medicines, and rooms 
for overseers in the upper stories, all contiguous with the cen¬ 
tral rotunda. In the cellars is the large apparatus for calefac- 
tion and ventilation, consisting of 6 large stoves in which a 
constant fire is kept up, thus distributing warmth through 
pipes in winter, and producing a draught in summer through 
the central chimney, which carries off the impure air from 
all the cells. Railways run all along these cellars under the 
galleries, communicating with the kitchens, which are in a 
court apart from the prison. The rations are contained in tin 
saucepans, 18 of which fill an iron salver fitting in a wooden 
frame upon wheels. Each frame, holding 12 of these salvers, 
is, when full, wheeled on the railway to the bottom of a gal- 


PRISONS* 77 

lery, whence it is drawn up by pulleys to the upper stories, and 
the contents distributed to the prisoners by the warders. In 
the yards between the wings are the prtaux, circular enclo¬ 
sures divided by walls into 20 small courts communicating 
with a central building, so contrived that the prisoners may 
each enter their court for the sake of exercise without being 
seen by the others. Each court is closed in front by an iron 
railing, and has a shed for bad weather. A warder stationed 
in the central building may survey them all. Every prisoner 
has an hour’s airing here daily. A cheminde ronde runs all 
around the prison ; sentinels are placed there at intervals. The 
gas-apparatus consists of three gasometers of 150 cubic metres 
each. There are 1460 gas-burners in the establishment. In 
another part of the chemin de ronde is the dead-house, and 
further on a yard containing the guard-house for loo men, and 
another in which is the sick-ward. Here the prisoners live in 
common. The walls facing the rue Mazas and the first court 
are pierced with loop-holes intended for the defence of the prison 
in case of a popular outbreak. This prison is reserved solely 
for persons awaiting trial. Its annual cost is about 95,000 fr. 

Maison d’Arr£t des Madelonnettes, —formerly 12, Rue 
des Fontaines, has now been transferred to the new buildings 
in the Rue de la Sante, constructed on the plan of the Prison 
Mazas, just described. They cover a space of 25,000 square 
metres, and consist of four galleries of four stories each, con¬ 
verging towards a centre, which comprises the chapel and the 
infirmary. One portion of the edifice is reserved for prisoners 
condemned to not more than a year's punishment. These 
have their meals in common, and work in the shops provided 
for them, whereby they earn a little money, if they know a 
trade, such as tailoring, shoe-making, &c. The rest of the 
building is constructed on the cellular system, and the prison 
discipline is there identically the same as at Mazas. Every 
prisoner, on entering, is made to take a bath, and his clothes, 
if necessary, are disinfected in a sulphuring-room (soufroir), 
He is not allowed to have more than 15 francs about him ; 
any sum above that is deposited at the office. Every day the 
prisoner is visited by the director, the almoner, and the apo¬ 
thecary. He is provided gratuitously with books and writing- 
materials ; he has a bath once a month, and is shaved once a 
week. The prison diet consists of 7 50 gms. of bread a day 
old, half a litre of broth, and a third of a litre of boiled vege¬ 
tables or pulse ; twice a week he gets lOOgms. of boiled 
meat. He may buy wine and other small luxuries at the 
cantine, a shop for the purpose within the walls of the prison, 
at prices approved of by the Prefect of Police (see p. 415). 




78 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

DEpot de la Prefecture de Police. —This prison is 
a place where persons arrested are detained 24 hours and then 
either set at liberty or sent to one of the other prisons. It is a 
new building, constructed on the cellular system. The ward 
on the ground-floor is reserved for prostitutes, who generally 
are released after a few hours’ confinement, their only fault 
being disorderly behaviour. There are cells for the insane. 
Who are not kept there more than 12 hours at the utmost, as 
a medical mail attends twice a-day to decide whether or not 
they be in a state to require being sent to an asylum. Some of 
the cells are called prisons de pistole, for such as are willing 
to pay for them. There is also a room set apart for the children 
of prisoners, or such as have been found lost or abandoned 
in the streets The population of this place is on an average 
230 ; the mean entrances and exits per day being 120. 

The Conciergerie, in the Palais de Justice, is used as a 
depot for prisoners during their trial, and sometimes for no¬ 
torious offenders before their committal. For the historical 
associations connected with this prison, and its description, (see 
p. 302.) It costs 2 5,000 fr. annually. 

Military Prison, 38, rue du Cherche Midi.—This prison 
replaces the old Prison de VAbbaye, which stood at the 
corner of the rue Ste. Marguerite, and was formerly a house of 
correction within the jurisdiction of the Abbaye of St. Germain 
des Pres. (1) The new building serves as a house of arrest for 
military offences (see p. 381). To visit this prison apply to 
the Minister of War, but permission is seldom granted. 

Prison for Debtors, 70 , rue de Clichy.—This prison, 
which holds about 400 persons, is to be converted into a 
place of confinement for young women under age. 

Stf. Pelagie, rue du Puits lTIermite.—This prison, formerly 
a convent of nuns, suppressed at the revolution of 17 89, was 
afterwards converted into a prison for debtors. It has for 
some years been appropriated to persons condemned to im¬ 
prisonment for not more than a year, or awaiting trial, and to 
political offenders, sentenced to short terms of confinement. 
The internal arrangement of the prison has therefore been rnucu. 
improved. Political offenders are kept apart from the rest, 
and are at liberty to occupy themselves as they please. Pri¬ 
soners receive soup and boiled meat twice a-week. They are 

( 1 ) The horrors which look place there during the Revolution 
of 1789 gave the Abbaye a fearful interest. It was one of the 
first prisons entered by the bands of assassins in September 1792. 
A mock tribunal here sat upon each victim, whence they were 
dismissed to the hands of the furious mob who were wailing with¬ 
out, by whom they were all unpityingly massacred. 


PRISONS. 79 

not obliged to work, but may if they choose, in which case 
they earn something. There are three courts, one of which 
is set apart for political offenders. About 550 persons are 
generally confined here. The buildings are large and airy. 
Its cost to the city is 40,000 fr. 

St. Lazare, 107, rue (lu Faubourg St. Denis.—This was the 
ancient convent of the Lazarists ; but it is now converted into 
a general prison for females committed for trial, or condemned 
to imprisonment for terms not exceeding one year. The Mai- 
son Centrale, to which they are sent for longer periods, is at 
Clermont. This prison is divided into three sections, altogether 
distinct from each other; the first contains, 1, criminals com¬ 
mitted for trial; 2, those who are undergoing a sentence of im¬ 
prisonment ; 3, children under 1G years of age. The second 
section is devoted to prostitutes condemned to short impri¬ 
sonment for offences against sanitary or other regulations of 
the police. There is an infirmary for each section. The children 
are locked up at night in separate cells, where they are strictly 
watched by means of galleries extending all along them, which 
have windows opening upon them, but protected by bars and 
lattices. The number of these cells is 200 ; there are besides 
other cells in an unwholesome part of the building, which 
are only had recourse to in cases of extreme necessity. The 
other sections have dormitories of various sizes. There are 
also pistole cells here, containing from 2 to 3 beds, where 
prisoners able to pay 25 or 32 sous for every ten days may 
enjoy a little more comfort. The infirmary of the prostitutes 
contains 340 beds, distributed into 17 wards. The prisoners 
of each section pass the day in different halls, not unlike 
school-rooms. A sister of St. Joseph, 40 of whom attend this 
prison, presides at an elevated desk, and strict silence is en¬ 
forced during the hours of labour (see p. 74.) The prisoners 
receive one quarter of their earnings daily, and another 
quarter on leaving the prison. The children are taught to 
read and write ; in case of ill-behaviour, they are punished by 
being excluded from the class for a short period, and this 
punishment is found extremely effectual. The refectory is on 
the ground-floor, and consists of a hall, the ceiling of which 
is supported by nine columns. Here the prisoners awaiting 
trial, the condemned prisoners, and the prostitutes that are 
not confined in the infirmary take their meals at different 
hours. The cantine, where prisoners may buy any humble 
dainties they may fancy, furnishes part of the prison 
revenue. The diet consists of half a litre of broth, wit i 
two-fifths of pulse or vegetables; on Sundays and Thursdays 
each prisoner has 125 grammes of meat. A chemin de ronde 


80 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

surrounds the building. The prison has its own bakehouse * 
the loaves weigh 700 grammes each, that being the daily ra¬ 
tion. The chapel consists of a nave and galleries capable 
of containing 900 persons. The number of prisoners varies 
from 900 to 1,100, the annual movement of the population 
of this prison may be estimated at about 10,000, and the 
cost 70,000 fr. (see p. 236.) 

Depot des Condamnes, or Nouveau Bic4tre, rue de la Ro- 
quette.—This prison is intended as a temporary place of 
confinement, rarely exceeding six months, for criminals con¬ 
demned to hard labour or transportation. It consists of a 
pile of buildings surrounding a large quadrangular court 180 ft. 
by 150 ft., three stories high; the lower of which is occupied 
by workshops, &c., the two upper by the prisoners’ cells. 
The greater part of the western side is allotted to the lodgings 
of the director and other officers, the general linen store, &c. 
In this side, too, is the entrance, the porter’s lodge, corps-de¬ 
garde, &c. A small court, added to the eastern side, is sur¬ 
rounded by a commodious chapel and an infirmary containing 
30 beds. A court, in which surveillants and sentinels constantly 
keep guard, surrounds the whole; each prisoner has a separate 
room, in which he is locked at night; and there are cachots , 
or dark chambers, for refractory prisoners, as well as three 
condemned cells for prisoners under sentence of death. There 
is a fountain in the middle of the great court. The average 
number of prisoners is 4 00. Prisoners condemned for crimes 
of comparatively minor importance may, by applying to the 
Minister of the Interior, obtain permission to pass the time of 
their sentence in this prison, on condition of paying 60 cen¬ 
times a-day, or 219 francs a-year, to the State. During 
their stay in the prison, the convicts are generally obliged to 
work at a trade (see p. 74). The convicts are paid by the piece; 
Government takes one-half of their earnings for prison 
expenses; of the rest, they receive one half every Saturday, 
and the remainder on their discharge. But, owing to the limited 
number of trades pursued in the establishment, few of the 
convicts here are set to the trade they have been brought up to; 
so that they are generally obliged to learn a new one. Nor 
is there always work sufficient for all the inmates, as that 
depends upon the demand in the markets; owing to this cir¬ 
cumstance, there are often upwards of 250 men without 
work, who lounge in the yard, or crowd in winter to the 
c haujjbir, a large heated room on the ground-floor. Every 
prisoner who has employment works ten hours a-day, but is 
allowed two hours’ exercise in the open air. The prison diet 
consists of V/j lb. of coarse but wholesome bread per day; a 


PRISONS. 81 

broth Soup in the morning, and another soup of some kind of 
pulse for dinner, except twice a-week, when a piece of boiled 
meat is given instead. The distribution is effected with great 
regularity; the provisions are brought into each ward, and 
each man. on hearing his name called, steps forward and re¬ 
ceives his share. The relations or friends of the pri¬ 
soners are admitted to see them in the parloir on Sundays 
and Thursdays from 11 to 3 (see p. 76). The prison is 
guarded by a detachment of 34 soldiers, and 18 keepers or 
surveillants are attached to it. This building may be looked 
upon as a model, both as regards solidity and sanitary condi¬ 
tions. It was designed by M. Gau, and built at a cost of 
1,245,000 fr. Its annual expenditure is 35,000 fr. 

Maison Centrale d’Education Correctionnelle, or Prison 
des Jeunes Detenus .—This prison, immediately opposite the 
last-named one, is constructed upon the cellular principle, 
and used to receive such male offenders under the age of 16 as 
had been declared by the tribunal incapable of judgment; they 
were here subjected to correctional education for a certain 
time, not exceeding their 20th year. In compliance with the 
Empress’s advice, the inmates have now been sent to various 
penal agricultural establishments in the departments, and the 
prison is now used for common offenders. 

Connected with prisons we may mention the :— 

Soci^te de Patronage des Jeunes Lib^res de la Seine.— 
This excellent institution, founded in 1833, is intended for the 
management of young prisoners while in confinement at the 
Maison Centrale, and for observing their conduct after the expi¬ 
ration of their punishment. Each member has one or more young 
prisoners under bis own especial care, and whose patron he is. 
The liberated prisoner is bound apprentice to a trade, and the 
society assist the family in maintaining him if their means are 
insufficient. Every individual costs the society on an average 
80 fr. a-year. The most gratifying effects have already resulted 
from the efforts of this society, which is also assisted by govern¬ 
ment. The conduct of the prisoners is greatly improved, and 
the number of cases of recommittal diminished from 75 to 7 
per cent. The government allows the society 70 centimes per 
day for each prisoner liberated before the expiration of his time, 
but only during the remaining period of his sentence, being 
the same allowance as that given to a colony at Mettray, near 
Tours, (1) for young offenders sent thither from prison, and 

(1) This admirable colony receives young: offenders not older than 17, from 
the different prisons of France, on condition that the time still remaining of 
their sentence be not less than 3 years. Being sent to Mettray is considered 
a boon. The colony consists of 12 farm-houses enclosing a square space of 
ground: each house contains a family of from 20 to 30 individuals, under the 
care of a chef; their pursuits are agricultural. 

6 





82 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

employed in mechanical and agricultural work. An annual 
meeting for the distribution of prizes for good conduct, &c., is 
held at the Hotel deVille, and a report is published every year. 
The secretary’s office is at 9, rue Mezieres. 

There is another association, called Socitittide Patronage pour 
lesJeunes Filles liberties et dtilaissties, 89, Rue de Vaugirard. 
The City pays 4000 fr. a-year to each of these two societies, 
and 4,500 fr. to the colony at Mettray. 

LAWS OF FRANCE AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 

Births.— The French law requires, in ease of Foreign as of 
French parents, that within three days every birth he declared to 
the mayor of the arrondissement, and the child taken to Ihe 
mayor’s officer and produced to the officer who registers the 
birth. The father, or in his absence the midwife or medical 
man who attended the birth must make the declaration. Two 
witnesses, men or women, are besides necessary to sign the re¬ 
gister. Parties not complying with these regulations are liable 
to fine and imprisonment. The entry in the register is legal 
evidence in England of the birth. A child born in France of 
foreign parents is entitled to all the rights of a Frenchman, on 
his claiming them within a year after his majority. ( 1 ) 

Marriages. —A marriage in a foreign country between British 
subjects is valid in England either when it has been solemnized 
in the house or chapel of the British ambassador by a minister 
of the Church of England, or as a general rule when the parties 
have married in the form established in the country in which 
the marriage is celebrated, and it is valid by the laws of that 
country; or, lastly, since the recent statute of 12 and 13 Victoria, 
chap. 08 , when the marriage has been celebrated before a 
British Consul, who has been duly authorized for that purpose.. 
For a marriage in the Ambassador’s house or chapel no notice 
or previous residence is necessary. The parties intending to 
marry at the Embassy in this city are required to make oath or 
declaration before the consul to the effect that they are of 
age, or that the proper consent has been obtained, and that 
there is no lawful impediment to the marriage. To marry 
according to French law, publication of the marriage is twice 
made by the mayor of the commune of each of the parties, with 
an interval of eight days between each publication. A civil cere - 
mony is celebrated by the mayor of the commune in which one 
of the parties has lived for six months. The parties must pro¬ 
duce the certificates of their birth or baptism, or, if notto be had, 
a declaration of seven persons made before the juge de paix of 
the date and place of birth of the party, and the consent of 
their parents properly authenticated; and, if they are dead, 
certificates of their burial and the consent of the grandfather 
and grandmother, if living. When the man is upwards of 25, 
and the woman upwards of 21, it is sufficient to show that the 

(1) Births and deaths are also registered at the Consulate, when requested, 
on payment of 4s. Gd., hut this does not relieve the parties from the duty 
of registering them at the office of the mayor. 


LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 83 

parents have been applied to for their consent in the manner 
required by the French law.—To marry at a British Consulate 
in France both the parties must have dwelt within its district not 
less than one calendar month, next preceding when notice is 
given by one of them to the Consul of the intended marriage. 
A copy of the notice is suspended at the Consulate. The Consul 
may grant a license for a marriage. When the marriage is by 
license, both parties have to make oath or declare that there is 
no impediment to their marriage, that both have had for one 
calendar month previously their usual places of abode within 
the district of the Consul, and that the proper consent has been 
obtained in case of either of them being a minor. At the end 
of 7 days, when a license has been obtained, or otherwise at 
the end of 21 days from the notice so given, the marriage may 
he solemnized, in presence ofthe Consul, according to the form 
of the Church of England, or according to any other religious 
form, or, as a civil ceremony, and by the Consul himself, as the 
parties desire. The fees are : for entering and suspending notice, 
los.; for every marriage solemnized by licence, 20s. ; without 
licence, 10s. For the attendance of the Consul at the marriage 
when by license 20s. 

Deaths. —In case of death, a declaration thereof should im¬ 
mediately be made at the mairie by the relatives or friends of 
the deceased, or by the person at whose house the death took 
place. The body is then visited by a physician appointed by 
the mayor to ascertain the causes of dissolution, and cannot be 
interred without authorisation from him, nor until 24 hours 
after decease, except in cases otherwise provided for by the 
regulations of the police. The burial usually takes place two 
days after death. If all or any of the heirs or residuary lega¬ 
tees are minors or absent, the juge de paix can place his seals 
on the papers and efFects of the deceased. The seals may also 
be required by any person interested as creditors or legatees. 
If a will is found the juge de paix delivers it tothe president of 
the tribunal, by whom it is deposited with a notary public. 

Wills. —Wills disposing of real property in England must, 
whether made there or abroad, he in the English form, namely, 
signed by the testator, or by another person in his presence by 
his direction, and attested in his presence by two witnesses. 
For personal properly in England, the English resident abroad 
must likewise follow the English form unless lie has established 
his domicile or permanent abode (as distinguished from mere 
temporary residence) in a foreign country, and then to be valid 
in the English courts his will must be valid by the law of the 
country of his domicile. By a recent enactment, however, a 
British subject, whatever his domicile may be, for his personal 
properly in the United Kingdom, has the choice of making his 
will either in the form required by the law of the place 
where it is made, or by the law of the place where he was 
domiciled when the same was made, or by the law then 
in force in that part of her Majesty’s dominions where he had 
his domicile of origin. In French law every will made in 
France in the French form, is valid, and according to the opi- 


84 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

nion of some, the French form is necessary to the validity in 
the French courts of every will made in France. With regard to 
the valid disposal of property by will and to the devolution of 
property in case of intestacy, for house or landed property, 
the French law, and when in England, the English law is al¬ 
ways followed. For personal property the law of the country 
in which the deceased had his domicile is followed. It appears 
to be still a question in the French courts whether a foreigner 
by settling permanently in France, places his personal pro¬ 
perty under the French law in these respects, when he is 
neither naturalized nor authorized by the government to estab¬ 
lish his domicile in France. The French law restrains the 
power of disposing of property by deed or will. A testator having 
one legitimate child may dispose of not more than half of his pro¬ 
perty ; if two children, a third part; if more than two children, a 
fourth part only will be at his disposal. Children born out of 
wedlock whose parents afterwards marry one another are 
legitimated, and placed on the same footing as legitimate 
children if they were before the marriage recognised by the 
father in an authentic manner, as in the register of birth or by 
declaration before a notary, or even in the marriage act itself. 
The testator’s power of disposing of his property is also restricted 
when he leaves relations in the ascending line, neither can he 
give to a natural child more than the law allots to him upon 
an intestacy. Natural children, when the issue of adultery from 
the father or mother being married to another person, or of 
incest, are incapable of taking under a will. In default of a will, 
all the children inherit alike, without distinction of sex or age; 
the natural children when recognised in the manner required 
by law, also inheriting, but only, in case there are legitimate 
children, for one-third of the share they would have taken if legi¬ 
timate, and for one-half of such share if the deceased left a parent 
or brothers, or sisters. Differently from the English law again, 
representation is admitted for collaterals in favour of the issue 
of brothers or sisters only. In the case of the failure of legiti¬ 
mate heirs, the property passes entirely to the recognised natural 
children, and failing such, to the surviving husband or wife of 
the deceased. 

Succession or Legacy-duty.— This duty is payable to the 
French government in respect of all property left in France by 
foreigners, whether they were residing in France or not at the 
time of their decease, and though the same property may be 
charged with a similar duty in the country to which he belongs. 
The duty is as follows:—For the husband or wife of the de¬ 
ceased, 3 per cent. ; for persons in the ascending or descending 
line, 4 per cent. For brothers or sisters, uncles or aunts, ne¬ 
phews and nieces 6 1/2 per cent. For grand-uncles, grand-aunts, 
grand-nephews, and grand-nieces, and cousins-german, 7 per 
cent. For relations beyond the 4 th and up to the 12th degree, 

9 per cent., and for strangers in blood, 9 per cent. In case of 
a life interest the life-tenant pays one-half of the duty, and the 
reversioner the whole, both to be paid at once, besides one- 
tenth and half a tenth of the said duty, which is taken on the 



LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 85 

value of the property on the day of the death. It must be paid 
within 6 months from the decease, in default of which, a 
further sum equal to one-half of the duty is incurred. 

Residence, Domicile, Naturalization. —Foreigners residing in 
France are bound to observe the laws ; but the civil courts ex¬ 
ercise no jurisdiction over matters in dispute between foreigners 
when they are not settled in France. This rule, however, is 
often evaded by entrusting the matter to a friend, and is more¬ 
over liable to many exceptions, as in case of commercial 
transactions, or when the subject of litigation is landed property 
in France, and is departed from in favour of French subjects, who 
can cite before the French courts (serving the process at the bar of 
the Procureur Imperial) even foreigners not living in France, and 
though the cause of action arose in another country. To obtain a 
complete domicile and tha.enjoyment of all therighlsof a French¬ 
man, apart, from political rights, the authority of the government 
to fix his domicile is necessary for a foreigner. The formalities 
for this purpose are effected through the medium of a Referen- 
daire au Sceau, after a declaration in the presence of witnesses 
at the applicant’s Mairie. The dues to be paid amount in this 
case to 172 fr. The Emperor decides on applications for 
naturalization; it can only be granted after enquiry into 
the character of the foreigner and on the favourable report 
of the Council of State. The applicant must have obtained 
permission to fix his domicile in France, and have resided 
three years in the country subsequently to this permission. But 
such residence for one year will be sufficient for foreigners who 
have rendered the country great service, or who have brought 
to it either a useful discovery or distinguished talents, or who 
have opened great establishments in it. The amount of dues in 
this case is about isofr. exclusive of the R^ferendaire’s fees. 
Until naturalization, a foreigner may be ordered by the Minister 
of the Interior to leave the country, without any reason being 
assigned. 

Arrest for Debt. —Abolished since July 23 d, 1867 . 

Bills of Exchange. —By the law of France all endorsements 
upon bills of exchange, &c., are required to be special. Unless 
a bill of exchange is payable to order it cannot be negotiated. 
The holder of a bill of exchange protested for non-payment may, 
upon procuring the order of a judge, distrain the goods and 
chattels of the drawer, the acceptor, and the indorsers; which, 
when so taken, are deposited in the hands of justice to answer 
the amount of the debt. Actions upon bills of exchange are li¬ 
mited to 5 years from the date of the protest, or from the last 
proceedings upon it: but different and frequently contradictory 
opinions have been held by judges respecting the interpretation 
of the law of 18 32, and of certain clauses of the code regarding 
hills of exchange, and all questions concerning “ debt.” 

Ambassadors, Consuls, &c. —By the law of nations, the hotel 
of an ambassador is considered as forming part of the territory 
of the nation which he represents. This, however, does not 
invalidate the right of a child of a foreigner, born within the pre¬ 
cincts of the hotel* to Become a French subject on its coming 


86 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

of age. The ambassador is privileged from all civil and criminal 
proceedings, and so are his servants, secretaries, &c.; hut the 
same privilege does not apply to a consul. 

Copyright. —By the French law the authors of works of 
literature, and composers, painters, engravers, &c., enjoy the 
sole property and disposal of their works, during their own lives ; 
to their widows for life, if entitled to it under the marriage-con¬ 
tract; to the children of the author for 20 years from his decease, 
or from the decease of the survivor of him and his widow, if 
the latter takes a life-interest; to the author’s other heirs or 
assignees (if he leaves no children) for 10 years from his decease. 
The copyright is possessed by dramatic authors during life, 
and by their families or heirs for 5 years after. The importation 
into France of works originating there, and pirated in a foreign 
country, is a misdemeanor. English authors have since 1 852 
equal rights with French authors, on deposit ing within 3 months 
after publication 2 copies of their works at the Ministry of the 
Interior, and registering a proper declaration. 

Patents. —To take out a patent in France all that is required 
is the payment in advance of 100 fr. per annum during the term 
of the patent, and the patentee can at any time discontinue the 
payment, if he finds his patent unproductive, which in that case 
becomes public property. Patents of importation are no longer 
granted, but a patentee in a foreign country, and he only, can 
take out a patent for the same object in France. As there is no 
obligation to continue the payments if theinvention should prove 
unprofitable, patents are generally taken out forthefull term of 
15 years. When, however, a patent for the same invention exists 
in a foreign country, it will be good in France no longer than 
for the term that remains on the original. A patent is loot if 
not worked in France within two years from its date, or during 
any two consecutive years within the term granted, unless suf¬ 
ficient cause be shown to justify this neglect. 

Trade Marks. —British subjects are on an equal footing with 
the French xvith respect to redress in France for the usurpation 
or fraudulent imitation of their trade marks. 

Game. —Permission to carry a gun (port d'armes ) may be ob¬ 
tained at any prefecture ; it costs 25 fr., and is valid for only 
1 year. The sportsman should always carry it about him, since 
any authorised guard may always demand to see it; and, if not 
produced, a summons before a tribunal may be made, which 
will be attended with expense. Sporting must not be on an¬ 
other’s property without leave, and on no uninclosed property 
out of the season, which is generally from 1st Sept, to 1st March. 

Fishing. —Every person is allowed to fish with the line only, 
the spawning-season excepted, in all rivers, canals, and navigable 
streams belonging to government, and in all dependencies of 
such streams, &c., where a fishing-boat can pass. Every person 
fishing in private waters, wilhout permission of the owner, is 
liable to a fine of from 20 fr. to 100 fr., besides damages. 

National Guard. —Foreigners who have not been authorised 
by the Government to establish their domicile in France, are not 
liable to serve in the national guard. 




LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 87 

Innkeepers and masters of hotels, in France, are responsible 
for the property brought into their house by a traveller, and 
for all robberies committed by servants or strangers, except in 
the case of an armed or superior force, or where the property, 
being of a very considerable value, was not shown to them, or 
the existence of it mentioned when the traveller came to the 
hotel, especially if any negligence as to locking-up, &c.. can 
be shown against the owner. Their responsibility holds good 
even if the traveller leaves the key in the lock of his door during 
the night; but not so if he leaves the key in during the day. 
Innkeepers and persons letting furnished lodgings may detain 
the effects of a lodger in case of non-payment, except the clothes 
actually in use ; they cannot appropriate the effects of a deceased 
or departed guest, but must obtain the authority of the Tribunal 
de Premiere Instance to sell sufficient t(^satisfy their claim. 

Servants, if hired by the day, are paid accordingly, and dis¬ 
missed at pleasure ; those hired by the year are paid by the ca¬ 
lendar month, and are entitled to eight days’ warning or wages 
on being dismissed, but must, if required, serve the eight days. 
When the servant gives warning, or demands to he dismissed, 
the eight days are not payable unless the master requires the 
service of the party during that period. The master is in all 
cases believed on atlirmation (see p. 12). 

Apartments. —An apartment taken furnished at so much per 
week or month is presumed in the absence of written proof to the 
contrary, to be taken by the week or month, and notice to quit 
can only be given for the end of a current week or month and 
before the latter half of it begins, failing which the tenancy con¬ 
tinues to the end of the following week or month. When, 
however, the apartment is taken for a specific period, and there 
is written proof of it, no notice is necessary. If the tenant 
remains and is allowed to remain in possession beyond the 
time, the tenancy continues at the same rent. The rent is paid 
in advance. When there is no written agreement to the con¬ 
trary an apartment in Paris taken unfurnished is taken by the 
quarter or terme. The rent is paid at the end of each quarter. 
Notice to quit must be given 6 weeks before the end of a quar¬ 
ter for a rent under 400 fr. a year, and when above that sum the 
notice must be given before the commencement of that quarter. 
Strictly, and for giving notice, the quarter begins on the 1 st of 
January, of April, of July, and of October, but for the payment 
of rent and for coming in and going out, and when the rent 
is above 400 fr. it begins on the 15 th of these months. During 
the last quarter the tenant is hound to show the apartment at 
proper hours to persons applying to see it. The notice to quit 
should be accepted in writing by the landlord or given through 
a huissier. The death of the tenant does not put an end to 
the tenancy. In the absence of any writing and until possession 
has been taken, the party denying the tenancy is believed on 
his oath. For the amount of the rent and its payment the evi¬ 
dence of the landlord is preferred to that of the tenant, bu 
the latter can cull for a valuation. The tenant is bound to de- 


88 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

liver up the apartment in the same condition in which the 
inventory or etat des lieux described it to be, and if no such 
inventory was made he is presumed to have received it in a 
good state of tenantahle repair; he is not responsible for the 
effects of time or for any other damage which happened from 
causes beyond his control. He is liable for damage by fire, 
unless he can prove that the fire broke out in another apart¬ 
ment, or that it could not have broken out in his own, or that 
it arose from bad construction or from force majeure. 

FORM OF A LEASE. 

Je-, propri6taire (or) principal locataire de-maison, la loue a M. 

-, (or) lone a AI.-,-appartement, au-etage, dans ladile maison 

ribing them accurately), pour — ann6es, qui commenceront & conrir 

d e (the day) pour-prix ( amount ) payable ii ( time of payment ), et sous 

toutes lcs obligations imposees aux locataires et reglees par le Code civil. 

Et inoi ( the lessee ) je prends la presente location comme et ainsi qu’elle est 

ci-dcssus slipulec. Fait double entre uous, a-, le-, mil liuit cent 

soixautc-. (Signatures. J 


(KQAiPvaaa 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 

1NSTITUT DE FRANCE.—The National Convention, by a 
decree of 17 93, abolished all the literary and scientific societies, 
denominated academies, established under Louis XIII. and 
Louis XIV., and the arts and sciences seemed condemned to 
oblivion. After the fall of Robespierre, however, the Con¬ 
vention appointed a committee for the preservation of the 
monuments of France, created the Polytechnic school, opened 
the colleges, founded the Conservatoire de Musique, Conservatoire 
des Arts et Metiers, 6cc., and by a decree of Oct. 26, 1795 (3d 
Brumaire, an III.), established the Institut, to replace the acade¬ 
mies, and the Directory appointed a number of members, whom 
they authorised to elect others. The Institute was divided into 
three classes; 1. physical and mathematical sciences; 2. moral 
and political sciences; 3. literature and the fine arts. Bona¬ 
parte, who was elected a member of the first class (Dec. 25lh 
17 97), having become Consul, divided the Institute into four 
classes (1803): 1. physical and mathematical sciences; 2. 
French language and literature; 3. ancient history and literature; 
4* the fine arts. In 1 816, Louis XV1IL changed the four classes into 



LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 89 

four academies, viz. 1 . the Academie Frangaise; 2 .th e Academie 
Royale des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres; 3. the Academie 
Roy ale des Sciences ; 4. the Academie Royale des Beaux-Arts, 
and some of the most celebrated members being dismissed, 
others were substituted by royal nomination, and the acade¬ 
mies taken under the special protection of the king. In 1832 , 
a fifth Academie, under the* name of Academie des Sciences 
Morales et Pohtiques, was added. The funds common to 
all the academies are managed by a committee of 10 members, 
two from each academy, presided by the Minister of Public 
Instruction. The nominations to vacant places are balloted 
for in each academy, subject however to the approval of the 
Emperor. The members of one academy are eligible to all the 
others. Each receives a salary of 1300 fr. Every time a 
member attends, he receives a silver counter to denote that he 
was present; non-attendance during the year exposes to a 
fine, and permanent absence, without sufficient cause, to ex¬ 
pulsion. Each academy has its special rules and funds. The 
library, &c., are common to all. Their annual meetings are 
held as follows.— Academie Frangaise, the first Thursday in 
May;— Academie des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres , the first 
Friday in July ; — Academie des Sciences, last Monday in Ja¬ 
nuary;— Academie des Beaux Arts, first Saturday in Oc¬ 
tober;— Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques, the first 
Saturday in January. A general annual sitting of all the acade¬ 
mies is held in August. The Institute comprises 223 members, 
besides 7 secretaries, 35 free academicians, who receive no 
salary, 31 associates, and 223 correspondents. 

The Academie Frangaise consists of 40 members; this sec¬ 
tion is specially charged with the composition of the Dictionary, 
and the extension and purification of the language. It adjudges 
an annual prize of 2000 fr. for poetry or eloquence, besides 
two annual prizes founded by M. Monthyon, one for the work 
most useful to public morals, and another for some distin¬ 
guished act of virtue displayed by a poor native of France; it 
likewise awards a prize each year, given by M. Gobert, of 
10,000 fr., for the most eloquent work on French history, and 
accords a gratuity of 1,500 fr. every alternate year, the gift of 
Count Maille de la Tour Landry, to some deserving but indigent 
young man of letters. Its meetings, which are not public, 
are held on Thursdays at 3 p.m. 

The Academie des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres is composed 
of 40 members, and 10 free academicians, besides foreign as¬ 
sociates and correspondents. The learned languages, antiqui¬ 
ties, and monuments, the translation of Greek, Latin, and Ori¬ 
ental works into the French language* and the formation of 





90 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

archaeological collections, are within their sphere. (1) This 
academy awards an annual prize of 2,000 fr. for the most learn¬ 
ed work on French History, and another for numismatics, 
founded hy M. d’Auteroche. It further awards 3 medals of 
500 fr. each for the best works on French antiquities, and a 
prize founded by M. Gobert. It meets on Fridays at 3 p.m. 

The Academie des Sciences contains 08 members (including 
the two secretaries), 10 free academicians, and 8 foreign asso¬ 
ciates, besides correspondents. It is divided into 11 sections, 
as follows :—geometry, 6 members; mechanics, 6; astronomy, 

0 ; geography and navigation, 6; general natural philosophy, 
6; chemistry, 6; mineralogy, 0; botany, 6; rural economy 
and the veterinary art, o ; anatomy and zoology, 6; medicine 
and surgery, 6. This academy awards a considerable num¬ 
ber of prizes, of from 500 fr. to 3,000 fr., for essays on given 
subjects. Among the founders of these prizes M. de Montyon 
stands first. A prize of 20,000 fr., towards which the Em¬ 
peror contributes one-half, is open to competition for the ap¬ 
plication of the regeneration of bone to surgery; and a sum 
of 100,000 fr. has been left by the late M. Breant for the dis - 
coverer of a specific remedy for the Asiatic cholera. Until 
this prize be awarded, the interest of the capital may be ap¬ 
plied annually as a reward to those who have approached 
nearest to the solution of the problem (2). Sir Roderick 
Murchison is among the foreign associates. Public meetings 
every Monday, at 3 p.m. 

The Academie des Beaux-Arts is composed of 41 members, 
including the perpetual secretary, and 10 free academicians, 
besides associates. It is divided into five sections, viz. paint¬ 
ing, 14 members ; sculpture, 8 ; architecture, 8 ; engraving, 4 ; 
musical composition, 6. Meetings every Saturday at 3 p.m. 

The Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques, restored 
by an ordonnance of Louis Philippe (Oct. 2G, 1832), is, since 
April, 1855, composed of 40 academicians, divided into 5 sec¬ 
tions, as follows:—moral philosophy; legislation, public 
law and jurisprudence; political economy and statistics; his- 

(1) This Academy publishes—l. Ses Mdmoires, 4to ; 2 . Les Md- 
moires qui lui sont prdsentes par divers savants, 4to ; 3. Les 
Notices des Manuscrits, 4 to ; 4. Les Memoires sur les Antiquites 
de la France, 4 to; 5. L’histoire litteraire de la France, 4 to ; 
6 . Collection des Hisloircs de France, folio ; 7. Les Charles et Do¬ 
cuments relatifs a l’llistoire de France, et les Lettrcs des rois de 
France, folio; 8 . Le Catalogue des Charles, folio. 

(2) This Academy publishes—1. Compte-Rendu de ses Seances; 
2. Reeueil de ses Memoires; 3 . Recueil de Memoires des savant* 
dirangers a l’Academie. 


ACADtfMJE FRANCAISE. 91 

tory and the philosophy of history ; and lastly, a new section 
of 10 members, under the title of “ Political, Administrative, 
and Financial Section.” At least one annual prize is given. 
This academy has 5 free academicians and also 5 foreign as¬ 
sociates, among whom were the late Lord Brougham and 
Mr. M’Culloch. It meets on Saturdays, at noon. 

A perpetual secretary is attached to each academy, except to 
that of sciences, which has two. 

BUREAU DES LONGITUDES.—This society, formed in 
1795, for the discovery of methods for the more accurate de¬ 
termination of longitudes at sea, and for the improvement of 
navigation by means of astronomical observations, holds its 
meetings at the Observatory. By a decree of January, 1854, 
it is composed of 9 titular members, viz. : 2 members of the 
Academy of Sciences, 3 astronomers, 2 members belonging to 
the department of the Navy, 1 belonging to the War depart¬ 
ment, and 1 geographer. There are besides 4 assistant- 
members, viz.. 1 member of the Academy of Sciences, 2 
astronomers, and 1 member belonging to the Navy-office. To 
these are added 3 artists. The Bureau compiles the Aimuaire 
des Longitudes and the yearly astronomical tables, called Con- 
naissance des Temps, the latter being published at least 3 years 
beforehand. It also devotes its attention to improvements in 
astronomical instruments, the calculation of tides, and mag¬ 
netic variations, 8tc. The 

OBSERVATORY is a distinct establishment, under the 
management of a director, 4 astronomers, a professor of na¬ 
tural philosophy, and several assistant-astronomers and pupils. 
The instruments, &c., are under the control of the director, who 
publishes the observations made during the year, and corres¬ 
ponds with the Minister of Public Instruction and with foreign 
observatories. The observations of chronometers, &c., are com¬ 
municated to the mercantile navy. Director, M. Leverrier (1). 

CONSEIL IMPERIAL DE L’LNSTRUCTJON PUBLIQUE.— 
It is believed that Charlemagne was the founder of the Univer¬ 
sity of Paris, so celebrated in the history of France. In 1789, 
the 10 or 12 universities in France, and all its religious col¬ 
leges, were suppressed, and no definite plan of public in¬ 
struction adopted, until Napoleon I. established one im¬ 
perial University, consisting of twenty-five academies, 

(1) This establishment now publishes the Bulletin de I’Obscrva- 
loire, containing the daily barometrical readings telegraphed 
from the most important points of the coasts of France, with 
remarks relating to the fore-casting of storms at sea. The Ob¬ 
servatory communicates daily with Admiral Fitzroy’s department 
in England for this purpose. 




92 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

for all France, under the direction of a council and a grand 
master. Louis XVIII. abolished the latter, but kept up the aca¬ 
demies. The council was afterwards re-established under the 
title of Conseil Royal de VInstruction Publique, and, in 1822, 
the office of grand master was restored, and the minister of 
Public Instruction invested with it. Since then, a decree of 
March 9th 1852, has established a Supreme Council of 
Public Instruction presided by the Minister of Public In¬ 
struction, and composed of five bishops or archbishops, 
three Senators, three Councillors of State, three members of 
the Court of Cassation, three ministers belonging to the 
Lutheran, Reformed and Jewish creeds, five members of the 
institute, eight inspectors-general, and two heads of private 
establishments of instruction. All the members are named 
by the Emperor for one year. The Supreme Council assembles 
at least twice a-year. It gives its opinion on bills concerning 
public instruction, on regulations respecting examinations, Sec., 
and has the control over all the Councils of Academies in France, 
which are now 16, viz. Aix, Bcsancon, Bordeaux, Caen, Cler¬ 
mont, Dijon, Douai, Grenoble, Lyon, Montpellier, Nancy, Pa¬ 
ris, Poitiers, Rennes, Strasbourg, and Toulouse. Every de¬ 
partment has a departmental Council of Public Instruction un¬ 
der the presidence of the prefect. All the academies have 
lyceums (grammar-schools), colleges, and schools of primary 
instruction under their jurisdiction, and all have faculties either 
of law, medicine, literature, or sciences. (1) 

Public Instruction in France is distinguished into Instruc¬ 
tion Superieure , comprising the faculties; Instruction Secon- 
daire, comprising lyceums and communal colleges; and In¬ 
struction Primaire, comprising elementary schools. There 
are 8 inspectors-general for the faculties, 6 for the establish¬ 
ments of secondary, and two for those of primary instruction. 

INSTRUCTION SUPERIEURE.— The Academy of Paris 
possesses a library at the Sorbonne, and consists of 5 faculties 
— Sciences, Letters, Theology, Laic, and Medicine. The 
first three are established at the Sorbonne, where the annual 
programmes of the lectures may be obtained. 

Sciences. —To obtain the following degrees the candi- 

( 1 ) In France there are 6 faculties of catholic theology, esta¬ 
blished at Paris, Rennes, Bordeaux, Lyons, Aix, and Toulouse; and 
2 of protestant theology, at Strasburg and Montpellier. There 
are 9 faculties of law, at Paris, Caen, Dijon, Grenoble, Toulouse, 
Aix, Poitiers, Rennes, and Strasburg. Three faculties of medi¬ 
cine, at Paris, Montpellier, and Strasburg. Six faculties of 
sciences and letters, at Paris, Caen, Dijon,. Grenoble, MontpeL- 
lier, and Bordeaux. 


COUNCIL OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION. 93 

date must be bachelier es lettres, or else undergo a 
previous trial, consisting of a translation, both oral and 
in writing, from the Latin into French : Bachelier es 
Sciences : logic, history, and geography ; pure and mixed 
mathematics (arithmetic, geometry, trigonometry, conic sec¬ 
tions, surveying, levelling, projections, cosmography, mecha¬ 
nics, and hydraulics); natural philosophy, chemistry, zoology, 
animal physiology, botany, and geology,—all within the limits 
of the programmes of the imperial lyceums. Licencie es sciences 
mathematiques : differential and integral calculus, mechanics, 
and physical astronomy. Licencie essciencesphysiques: chemis¬ 
try, physics, and mineralogy. Licencie es sciences naturelles : 
botany, geology, zoology, and anatomy. To become a licen¬ 
tiate, the degree of bachelor must have been taken, and two 
courses of the faculty must have been followed in the same year. 
Docteur es sciences: candidates are required to sustain two 
theses on the subjects of one of the 3 licentiates’ examinations. 

Letters. —To obtain the degree of Bachelier es lettres, the 
candidate must be 16 at least, and undergo two examinations, 
one in writing, consisting of three compositions, and the 
other oral, on Greek, Latin, and French authors, and, at his 
request, on a living language ; also on all matters taught in 
the classes of rhetoric and philosophy. (1) Licencie es 
lettres ; the candidate must be a bachelor of one year’s stand¬ 
ing, and have taken four inscriptions. The examinations 
consist of compositions in French, Latin, and Greek, and in 
literary, philosophical, and historical questions. Docteur es 
lettres , for this he must be a licentiate, and sustain two 
theses; one in Latin, the other in French, on two distinct 
subjects within the compass of the instruction given in the 
faculty, and at the choice of the candidate. 

Theology : — Dogmatic theology, moral theology, sacred 
scriptures, ecclesiastical law, sacred eloquence, and Hebrew. 
The degrees of bachelor, licentiate, and doctor, are also con- 
i ferred in this faculty. (2) 

The Faculty of Law is established at the ficole de Droit, 
; Place du Pantheon. There are 18 professors who lecture on 
■ the general introduction to the study of law, the civil code, civil 
i; and criminal procedure and criminal legislation, commercial 

(1) See “ Manuel (lu Baccalaureat 6s Lettres.” 

( 2 ) By an ordonnance of Dec. 25 , 1830, no one can be a pro¬ 
fessor of theology without having taken the degree of doctor in 
that faculty; nor curate of a chief town or any higher functionary 
in the church, without being a licentiate ; nor curate ot a chief 
town of a canton without being bachelier, unless the functions of 
officiating minister have been performed by him for to years. 



94 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

code, administrative law, code Napoleon, comparative cri¬ 
minal law and penal legislation ; law of nations, Roman 
law, Pandects, history of Roman and French law. To he ad¬ 
mitted to follow these courses, in order to become an avoue , 
he must inscribe his name as a student (1); but to graduate 
in this faculty he must besides be bachelier es lettres. 
Bachelier en droit : two examinations are necessary for 
this degree, which is taken at the end of the second year ; 
the first in the civil code and the institutes of Justinian ; the 
second in the civil code, and the codes of procedure, penal 
laws, and criminal process. Licencie en droit: a third year’s 
study is requisite for this degree, and two examinations, one 
in Roman law, the other in civil and commercial codes, and 
in administrative law, besides a ttiesis. Docteur en droit: 
a fourth year is necessary for this degree ; two examinations 
and a thesis consisting of two dissertations, one of which 
must he on Roman law. 

The Faculty of Medicine, and everything relating to that 
science, is specially treated of in Chapter VII. (see p. 130). 

The title of agrege, which is independent of the usual de¬ 
grees, is obtained after a most difficult examination by com¬ 
petition, by such as aspire to a chair in the University. The 
salaries of the professors vary from 2,000 fr. to 8,000 fr. All 
their lectures are public and gratuitous. 

The number of students attending the faculties of the Uni¬ 
versity of Paris amounts to about 2,000, for law, 3,000 for 
medicine, and 1,500 for the sciences. Foreigners wishing to 
follow the lectures of the faculties of law, letters, medicine, or 
the sciences, are admitted to matriculate on producing certifi¬ 
cates required in their own countries for admission into 
faculties of the same order, if found to be equivalent to the 
French diploma of bachelier es lettres. 

SUPERIOR SCHOOLS.— College Imperial de France 
1, Place Cambray, instituted in 1530 by Francois I.—At this 
college 34 professors give public and gratuitous lectures on the 
following subjects :—astronomy; mathematics; general and 
experimental philosophy; medicine; chemistry; natural his¬ 
tory; comparative embryology ; natural, comparative, and 
national law; history, political economy, archaeology; Hebrew, 
Chaldee, Syriac, Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Chinese, Mantchou- 
Tartar, and Sanscrit; Greek literature; Greek and Latin phi¬ 
losophy; Latin eloquence; Latin poetry ; French literature o 
the middle ages, as also modern ; literature of modern Europe, 
Sclavonic literature, epigraphy and Roman antiquities. 

(I) The number of law-students in 1868 was 2 , 7441 . 



THE FACULTIES. 95 

MusieE Imperial d’Histoire Naturelle, Jardin des Plantse. 
—A college or body of 17 professors gives lectures on natural 
history; palaeontology ; comparative physiology, anatomy and 
natural history of man; comparative anatomy; general and 
practical chemistry; mineralogy; geology; botany ; vegetable 
physiology; rural botany; cultivation of plants; physics 
applied to natural history. There are 15 assistant preparers, 

1 librarian, and other officers, besides 2 masters for instruc¬ 
tion in drawing and painting flowers, and an establishment 
of painters of subjects of natural history (see p. 4 27.) 

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 292, rue St. Martin.— 
This establishment, especially intended for the technical edu¬ 
cation of manufacturers, mechanics, and other workmen, con¬ 
tains, according to the last regulations, 14 professorships of 
practical and descriptive geometry; natural philosophy and 
explanation of machines; agriculture; mechanics, economy, 
and legislation, relating to manufactures; statistics, civil ar¬ 
chitecture, drawing; practical chemistry, the ceramic arts, 
practical agriculture, spinning and weaving, dying and print¬ 
ing textile fabrics. There are also Sunday lectures on various 
subjects (see p. 2 56.) All are gratuitous, and the expense 
supported by the State. 

Ecole Normale, 45, rue d’Ulm.— This institution, esta¬ 
blished in 1808., is intended for the education of young men 
who wish to become candidates for professorships. To be ad¬ 
mitted, they must be between the ages of 17 and 23, must 
have taken the degrees of bachelier es lettres and bachelier es 
sciences, and must have terminated their studies, philosophy 
included, in a lyceum or in a college communal de plain 
cxercice. The course of education in this school lasts three 
years ; but two additional years must be passed in a superior 
division of the school to obtain the doctor’s degree, or be¬ 
come an agrege in a faculty. The establishment is admi¬ 
nistered by 3 directors, under the control of the Minister of 
Public Instruction. There are 18 professors and 80 pupils. (1) 

SPECIAL SCHOOLS.—There are various special schools 
founded in Paris, mostly by Government, and therefore called 
i Ecoles du Gouvernement; of these we subjoin a list. 

Ecole Polytechnique, rue Descartes, Montagne Ste. Gene¬ 
vieve.—A decree of the National Convention, dated March 11, 

1794, created an Ecole Centrale, which, by a decree of Sept. 1, 

1795, took the name of Ecole Polytechnique. It was com- 

(1) All towns possessing faculties have also normal schools for 
providing the lyceums with masters and elementary teachers. 
They are called ficoles Normales Supericures. 


96 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

pletely re-organised in 1852. The object of this justly-cele¬ 
brated institution is to form pupils for the artillery, the staff, 
engineering, the marine service, bridges and highways, min¬ 
ing, telegraphs, and other departments. Pupils are admitted 
from the age of 16 to 20. Soldiers having served two years 
are admitted until the age of 2 5. They must be French by 
birth, or naturalized, and free from physical defects. Every 
year candidates for admission undergo a strict examination 
in Paris and the departments. The terms are 1,000 fr. a-year, 
exclusive of books and equipments. The affairs of the school 
are under the superintendence of a council and an adminis¬ 
trator. The period allowed for study is two years. The 
number of pupils is 260, with 20 professors. Strangers are 
not admitted without permission from the Minister of War (1). 
It possesses a library of 26,000 volumes (see p. 410). 

Ecole Imperiale des Ponts et Chauss^es, 28 , rue des 
Saints Peres.—This school, placed under the authority of the 
Minister of Public Works, consists of about 100 pupils, taken 
from the Ecole Polytechnique, who receive instruction in what¬ 
ever concerns the different branches of civil engineering. Fo¬ 
reigners are allowed to follow thelectures, on receiving an author¬ 
isation from the Minister of Public Works, which must be ap¬ 
plied for by their respective ambassadors. It has 15 professors. 

Fcole d ? £tat-Major, 138, rue de Grenelle.—Pupils for the 
staff service are received here, selected by competition from 
among the sub-lieutenants of the army and the pupils of the 
Polytechnic School, and the Military School of St. Cyr. 
After 2 years’ study they may be appointed to lieutenancies 
of the staff, after which they are drafted inio the regi¬ 
ments of the line. There are 7 5 pupils and 15 professors. 

Ecole des Mines, 30, rue d’Enfer.—This establishment, 
erected in 1783, is under the control of the Minister of Public 
Works, and intended for the study of mineralogy, geology, 
mining, Sec., for which purpose it possesses a considerable 
collection of minerals, and a scientific library. At its 
head is a Conseil des Mines, composed of 8 inspectors, 
which directs all affairs relating to mining operations. Gra¬ 
tuitous lectures are given in geology and mineralogy during 
six months, commencing Nov. 15. There are : 1. the sieves 
ingenieurs, taken from the Polytechnic School; 2. foreign 
pupils, admitted by competition as day-scholars. The library 
is public from 10 to 3, holidays excepted. 

(i) The fullest information on this remarkable institution will 
be found in the official publication called “ Programme des 
Etudes,’* 





SCHOOLS AND LYCEUMS. 97 

ficOLE Centrale des Arts et Manufactures, 1, rue des 
Coutures St. Gervais, founded in 1828, and established on the 
plan of the old Ecole Polytechnique, for young men intending 
to become civil engineers, directors of manufactories, builders, 
&c. It does not admit pupils under 16 ; candidates must pas„ 
an examination in arithmetic, algebra, geometry, and mathe¬ 
matical drawing. The terms are 800 fr. per annum. 

Ecole des Chartes, at the Palais des Archives, rue du 
Chaume.—This institution was founded by Louis XVIIL, for 
encouraging the study of the ancient manuscripts contained in 
the different libraries, and the depots of the archives of the 
kingdom. Three professors and four assistant-professors give 
lectures daily on palaeography, and the art of decyphering do¬ 
cuments. The number of pupils is unlimited; to be admitted the 
candidate must have the degree of bachelor, and undergo an 
examination; his age must not be under 18, nor exceed 25. 
The establishment is open daily from 10 to 4 ; it possesses an 
elegant lecture-room for 100 pupils, and a small library with 
desks, where students are at liberty to study between lectures. 
The students who distinguish themselves receive 600 francs 
annually, from the Minister of Public Instruction, until they 
obtain places as professors of the school, assistants of the 
Academie des Inscriptions, or librarians. 

Ecole des Langues Orientales Vivantes, at the Biblio- 
theque Imperiale, No. 8, rueNeuve des Petits Champs.—Here 
9 professors lecture publicly and gratuitously on the following 
languages:—Pure and Vulgar Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Arme¬ 
nian, Modern Greek and Greek palaeography, Hindoostanee and 
its dialects, Vulgar Chinese, Malay, and Javanese. 

Ecole des Beaux Arts, 14, rue Bonaparte.—This school, 
which is under the control of the Minister of the Interior, is 
divided into 3 sections, painting, sculpture, and architecture. 
Lectures are given gratuitously by 8 professors. Annual prizes 
are distributed; the first prizes entitle the successful candidate 
to study at Borne at the expense of the State (see p. 365). 

INSTRUCTION SECONDA1RE.—This division of public 
instruction comprises two kinds of lyceums and colleges : 
those for classical and scientific, and those for industrial edu¬ 
cation ( Enseignement Classique, Enseignement Special). 

Lyceums. —In Paris the Lyceums are exclusively classical 
and scientific. They comprise three divisions ; viz. an elemen¬ 
tary one, one of grammar, for all pupils under the age of 15 ; 
and another, called the superior division, where sciences and 
literature are taught. The division of grammar comprises the 
three classes below the third; the other, the third and second 
classes, and those of rhetoric and philosophy. The literary 

7 


98 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

section of the upper division prepares pupils for the faculties 
of letters and jurisprudence ; the scientific one for sciences and 
medicine, the Polytechnic and other special schools. Pupils 
must pass three years in the division of grammar, and three 
in the upper one. The lyceums are visited once a year at 
least by inspectors. Each lyceum has a proviseur, or head 
of the establishment, a censeur des etudes, who has the dis¬ 
cipline, a treasurer, and a chaplain. (1) In Paris, the terms for 
boarders are : 1st division, 950 fr. ; 2d, 1050 fr.; 3d, 1150 fr.; 
for outdoor pupils, 120 fr., 150 fr., and 200 fr. respectively, 
and oofr., 7 5fr., and 100 fr. for extraordinary classes. For the 
higher mathematics the charges are : boarders, 1500fr.; out¬ 
door pupils, 250fr.,extraordinary classes, 120fr. Music, danc¬ 
ing, &c., are extra charges. The course of education comprises 
Greek, Latin, English, German, Spanish, and Italian ; philo¬ 
sophy, physics, chemistry, mathematics, history and geo¬ 
graphy. The study of living languages is compulsory in 
the sixth, fifth, and fourth classes ; it is optional in the 
higher ones. 

There are now in Paris six lyceums, between the pupils of 
which, and the lyceum of Versailles, there is a competition 
(Grand Concours ) for prizes at the end of each year. Each 
lyceum sends ten of the best pupils of each class from the 
fourth upwards, to the Sorbonne, where the competition takes 
place. Similar concours are organised in each of the 16 Aca¬ 
demies, and ultimately the victors throughout all France com¬ 
pete together for the Prix du Ministre. The proclamation of 
the prizes takes place with great pomp at the Sorbonne, in the 
presence of the whole corps universitaire. —The following is 
a list of the imperial lyceums: Lycee Louis le Grand, 123, 
rue St. Jacques; 42 professors, comprising four lecturers on 
the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages; 370 boarders, 
and 500 day-scholars.— Lycee Napoleon, rue Clovis; 18 pro¬ 
fessors, 350 boarders.— Lycee St. Louis, 42, Boulevard St. 
Michel ; 50 professors, 400 boarders, and 400 day-scholars. 
— Lycee Charlemagne, 120, rue St. Antoine; 40 professors, 
800 day-pupils.— Lycee Bonaparte 65, rue Caumartin; 33 

(l) The salaries for Paris are as follows: — Proviseurs, c,oeo 
fr.; censeurs, 5,ooo fr. (both having lodging and firing besides) ; 
professors, 1st class, 4,500 fr. ; 2nd, 4,ooo fr. ; 3rd, 3,500 fr. 
4th, 3,000 fr. Deputy-professors, 1st class, 2 ,:>oofr.; 2 d, 2,Ooofr. 
To these fixed salaries must be added the eventuel , consisting of 
a portion of the clear profits of the lyceums of Paris and 
Versailles taken collectively and divided among the func¬ 
tionaries, The minimum of the eventuel guaranteed by the state 
is 1,000 fr. in the departments; in Paris it is 3,000 fr. 


SPECIAL SCHOOLS. 90 

professors, 1,100 day-pupils.— Lycre du Prince Imperial , at 
Yaiives (elementary), is professors, 500 pupils (l). 

The College Bollin , 42, rue dcs Postes, belongs to the 
City ; it has 40 professors and 300 hoarders. 

Of the private establishments of a similar nature, the follow¬ 
ing are the most considerable : College Stanislas, 22, rue 
Notre Dame des Champs; 30 professors, and 200 boarders. 
College Ste. Barbe, place du Pantheon, which, including an 
establishment dependent from it at Fontenay aux Roses, has 
100 professors and 1,000 boarders and day-scholars.. 

Enseignement Special. —This is the name given to indus¬ 
trial public instruction. In the departments it is organised 
in almost all the classical lyceums, there being thus two 
different sets of classes and pupils in the same establishment. 
Those of Mont-de-Mai san and Napoleonville are, however, 
exclusively devoted to this branch ; and at Cluny there is a 
Normal School for it. This Special Instruction comprises 
French, foreign living languages, history, geography, mathe¬ 
matics, chymistry, natural philosophy, natural history, 
geology, botany, mechanics, book-keeping, commercial law, 
and agriculture (2) In Paris this instruction is chiefly given 
by the following establishments :— 

College Municipal Chaptal, 29, Rue Blanche.—This college 
admits boarders at 1,000 fr. a year. Out-door pupils pay 
200 fr. Latin is also taught here optionally. The number 
of pupils is about 1,000. 

College Municipal Turgot, 17, Rue du Yertbois.—This 
affords a somewhat inferior instruction. It has no boarders, 
but about G00 day-scholars. 

There are also Schools particularly devoted to certain 
branches of Special Instruction. Such are for instance :— 

(1) Besides the government schools, there are also many pri¬ 
vate establishments of the kind. Last year, there were in France 
825 private schools of secondary instruction under laymen, com¬ 
prising 105,000 pupils, and 256 conducted by members of the 
clergy, with 35 ,ooo pupils, besides 1 25 ecclesiastical seminaries 
with 23,000 pupils. There are nine monastic bodies possessing 
52 establishments of secondary instruction ; of these the Jesuits 
have 11 and the Maristes is. The total number of pupils in the 
8 i Lyceums and Government Colleges is about 7 0 ,Ooo. Besides 
these means of instruction, 750 courses of gratuitous lectures to 
adults have been organized throughout France. 

(2) There are at present 1 7,000 pupils in all France belonging 
to Uiis branch of public instruction, which in England bears the 
name of modern department. Several annual prizes have been 
instituted by Government in its favour. 


100 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Ecole Sup^rieure du Commerce, 24, rue St. Pierre Popin- 
court.—Founded in 1820 by the late Casimir Perier, and by 
Messrs. Chaptal, Ternaux, and Laffitte. The pupils here re¬ 
ceive a practical commercial education, at an expense for board 
and tuition varying between 1,200 and 1,400 fr. a-year. 

Ecole de la Chambre du Commerce. —A somewhat si¬ 
milar establishment to the proceeding one, opened in 1863 
in the Avenue Trudaine under the superintendence of the 
Chamber of Commerce. The number of pupils is 400, chiefly 
children of the working classes, who here receive a business 
education at a low charge. The studies comprise modern 
languages, mathematics, natural philosophy, drawing, natural 
history, and geography. In the evening there are lectures for 
adults. The building comprises four class-rooms, three amphi¬ 
theatres for lectures, a gallery of natural history, and a library. 

Ecole Imperiale Gratuite de Dessin, de Mathematique, 
et de Sculpture d’Ornement, 5, rue del’Ecole de Medecine. 
For the instruction of artisans in drawing and architecture, 
geometry, arithmetic, mensuration, timber-cutting, &c. 

Ecole Imperiale, Speciale, et Gratuite de Dessin, 7, 
rue de Dupuytren.—Young women here learn figure, land¬ 
scape, flowers, See., for manual professions. 

Conservatoire de Musique et de Declamation Lyrique, 
15, faubourg Poissonniere. — Founded for the gratuitous 
instruction of young persons of both sexes in singing, music, 
and declamation. There are 10 bourses of 1,000 fr. founded 
by the City and the Government for as many boarders. Out¬ 
door pupils are admitted after passing an examination, and 
must have attained the age of 1 o for the piano or other in¬ 
struments, of 15 for declamation, and of 16 for singing. 
Their number is 600 ; a musical library, of 8,000 volumes, public 
from 10 to 3, is attached to this establishment ( see p. 231.) 

Secondary Instruction for Girls.— This has been pro¬ 
vided for since January, 1868, by the Minister of Public 
Instruction in the shape of public courses, which, in Paris, 
are given at a moderate expense in one of the annexed build¬ 
ings of the Sorbonne, Rue Gerson. 

Institutions, Pensions.— These establishments are equi¬ 
valent to academies and boarding-schools in England, but are 
under the control of Government. In Paris there are 50 in¬ 
stitutions or preparatory schools for the lyceums, and 240 
pensions. The number of institutions for young ladies is about 
200, and of pensions 150. There are many more such esta¬ 
blishments in the rest of the department of the Seine, besides 
smaller schools, which in Paris and its vicinity amount to 
more than 500. (See Directory.) - 






SPECIAL SCHOOLS. 101 

INSTRUCTION PRIMAIRE. —Tnis branch of public instruc¬ 
tion comprises in the department of the Seine 1,843 primary 
schools, in which reading, wiiting, and arithmetic are taught, 
together with the catechism and a little history and geography 
to about 184,000 children. A somewhat higher degree of 
primary instruction is given in the 

Ecoles Primaires Superieures de la Yille de Paris, form¬ 
ing the fourth class under the direction of the Imperial Council 
of Public Instruction. There are two for boys, and one for girls. 

The City moreover supports 522 Ecoles Primaires for boys 
and girls; there are also about GO for the former, conducted 
by the Freres des Ecoles Chreticnnes, (see p. 113); and as 
many for the latter, under the guidance of the Soeurs de St. 
Vincent de Paule. The total number of pupils is about 200,000. 
The expense of all the Ecoles Primaires to the municipality is 
about 5,200,000 fr. (l) annually. Children are admitted from 
the age of 6 to that of 15. Elementary singing is taught in all 
these schools. The salaries of the masters are 1,800 fr.; the 
mistresses 1,500 fr. per annum; besides a house, or 300 fr. 
for rent. Their salaries are increased every 5 years by 
200 fr., till the total increase amounts to 600 fr. If they 
hold an evening class for adults, they are paid in addition 
10 fr. annually per pupil (2). 

Ecoles Speciales de Dessin. —Of these schools there are 
7 for males, and 2 for females, maintained by the City of Paris, 

Adult Schools. —There are in Paris 80 schools or classes 
for adults, containing 14,000 pupils. The pupils receive 
gratuitous instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, gram¬ 
mar, drawing, geometry, vocal music, &c., every evening 
from 8 till 10, so as not to interfere with their avocations. 

Ouvroirs. —These are useful establishments kept up by the 
administration of hospitals for furnishing work to young girls; 

(1) Under the Restoration it was only 70,000 fr. 

(2) The City has provided a school for children of the Jewish 
persuasion in the Marche des Blancs Manteaux. The total num¬ 
ber of children frequenting the primary schools of Paris in 1867 
was about 60 , 000 . The Ecoles Primaires for all France, according 
to the last returns, were 66,770, comprising 32,749 schools tor 
hoys under the direction of laymen, with 1,()40,000 pupils, and 
16,815 conducted by lay-women, with about 7 50,oo0 pupils. 
There are besides 17,206 do. kept by the clergy, viz., 2,502 for 
boys, with 443,732 pupils ; and 14,704 for girls, with 1 ,1 66,942 
pupils. In 1867 the sum devoted throughout France to primary 
instruction amounted to 21 millions of francs., the share of the 
State being 10 , 500,000 fr. 


102 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

there are 1 or more in each arrondissementtheir total number 
is 30, and the children frequenting them are upwards of 
1,000. Their cost, including the adult schools, is 632,125 fr. 
per annum. - 

Salles d’Asile, or Infant Schools. —There are 84 such 
establishments; they receive during the day about 15,000 
children of both sexes. Their annual expense is about 200,000 
francs. Infants are received till their sixth year (1). The Salles 
d’Asile are under the protection of the Empress, who awards 
medals to the directresses that distinguish themselves by their 
exertions in the execution of their duties. Iler Majesty also 
presides over a central Committee of Patronage, of 27 members, 
mostly ladies of rank, appointed for the propagation of those 
institutions. The same illustrious lady is also, in virtue of a 
decree of Nov. 1855, protectress of 

The Maison Imperials de St. Denis and its branch estab¬ 
lishments, now collectively known as the Maisons Im- 
periales Napoleon , devoted to the instruction of the daugh¬ 
ters, sisters, and nieces of members of the Legion of Ho¬ 
nour. This institution was originally established by Napoleon I. 
in the Chateau of Ecouen, under the superintendence of 
Madame Campan, and has been rendered illustrious by the 
peculiar favour of the Emperor, who often visited it; by 
the Letters and the enlightened cares of its excellent gover¬ 
ness ; and by the numbers of accomplished women who have 
received their education within its walls. Since 1815 it has 
been fixed in the vast buildings of the confiscated Abbey of St. 
Denis, and according to the latest regulations, is thus constituted. 
The Grand Chancellor of the Legion presents the Lady Super¬ 
intendent of the establishment to the Emperor for appoint¬ 
ment, and names the other ladies by his own authority. 
All pupils are nominated by the Grand Chancellor. The esta¬ 
blishment consists of a lady superintendent, an inspectress, 
3 directresses, a treasurer, G ladies dignitaries; 12 ladies 
of the 1st class, 33 ladies of the 2nd class, 20 novices, be¬ 
sides candidates for the noviciate, and 500 pupils, of whom 
400 are taught gratuitously, the remainder at the expense of 
their families. The superintendent, dignitaries, and governing 
members of the institution wear a decoration consisting of 
a four-branched enamelled cross, and retiring pensions are al¬ 
lowed them. A highly finished education is given to the pupils; 
and the young ladies who are brought up here receive all the 

(0 The most authentic accounts of the institutions for public 
Instruction in France are to be found in the “ Annuaire de l’Uni- 
YcrsihV’ and in the “ Reports” of the prefect of the department. 


MAISON DE ST. DENIS. 103 

advantages that can result from a well-matured system of col¬ 
legiate instruction, aided by eminent professors of the fine arts 
and music. 3 almoners and a large medical staff are attached 
to the service of the establishment. The rules of the house are 
exceedingly strict, without being severe; all the members of 
it wear the same uniform, black dresses, black bonnets and 
gloves, with aprons and collars; all dine together, and are 
subjected to almost military discipline. Frequent examinations 
take place, and prizes are awarded according to merit. Per¬ 
mission to visit the establishment is granted by the Grand 
Chancellor on a written application. 

Two branch houses, connected with this institution, are esta¬ 
blished, one at Ecouen, with 200 pupils, the second with 300 
pupils, at the Maison des Loges, at St. Germain. They are 
superintended by the Congregation de la Mere de Dieu, an order 
of nuns. The number of gratuitous admissions in these three 
establishments is 800, but boarders may be admitted at 900 fr. 
a year. None but daughters of officers not below the rank of 
captain are admitted at St. Denis; at the branch establish¬ 
ments even the daughters of privates are admitted. Pro¬ 
testants are excluded. All the dignitaries and teachers have 
been brought up in the establishment. 

Ecoles d’Eqeitation.—T he best are at 12, rue Duphot, and 
4 2, rue d’Enghien 

Gymnase, 55, Avenue Montaigne, Champs Elysees.—At this 
institution, conducted by M. Triat, instruction is given to 
pupils of both sexes in gymnastic exercises. It is very well 
attended, and the public are admitted at 4 and 8 p.m. 

PUBLIC MUSEUMS.—Besides the Louvre, containing the 
richest and most important collections of ancient and modern 
art, there are several other Museums of art, numismatics, 
natural history, etc.; for these see Index under Musee, 
Galerie, and Cabinet. 

PRIVATE MUSEUMS.—The following private collections 
are visible by application in writing:— Ancient and Modern 
Art: Marquis of Hertford, 1, rue Taitbout; Count d’Espagnac, 
27, rue de Clichy; M. Lacaze, 118, rue du Cherche Midi. 
(Sundays, from 10 to 2 .)— Paintings bxj Living Masters : 
Baron J. Rothschild, 17, Rue Laffitte; Mine. Paturle, 21, rue 
du Paradis-Poissonniere. (In winter only). M. A Moreau, 
3 , rue St. Georges.— Antiquities and Curiosities: M. D’Yvon, 
20, rue de la Chaise. — Numismatics : M. Rollin, 12, rue 
Vivienne (from 12 to 5).— Herbaries ' —M. Adrien de Jussieu, 
at the Garden of Plants. 

The following are only accessible upon proper introduction : 
Paintings :—Baron James Rothschild, 19, rue Lallitle ; M. De 


104 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Rothschild, 40, rue Taitbout; Marquis of Hertford, 2, rue Laf- 
fitte ; Marquis Maison, 24, rue Neuve des Gapucines ; M. 
Dagnan, 35, rue St. George’s (Swiss scenery.) 

PUBLIC LIBRARIES.—This city possesses many valuable 
libraries, for which, see Index, under the head Bibliotheques. 

PRIVATE LIBRARIES.—There are several attached to the 
different public offices and institutions ; but cannot be visited 
without a permission granted for some special object. Thus 
every ministry has one relating to its peculiar department; the 
Cour de Cassation has one of 30,000 volumes; the Depot de 
la Marine comprises 25,000 ; the Home Office has one of 
22,000 ; and the Ecole Poly technique, the Ecole des Ponts 
et Chaussees, the Seminaire St. Sulpice, and the Observatoire, 
have each their particular one of about 20,000 volumes. 

PERIODICAL EXHIBITIONS.—Of these the most important 
are—the periodical Exhibitions of National Industry, which, 
are held in the Palais de VIndustrie (see p. 183), the annual 
Exhibition of the works of Living Artists (see p. 183,) (1) and 
the annual Horticultural Exhibitions, (see p. 105). 

LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES.—The names of 
most of these denote their object. In the following list those 
marked with an asterisk publish periodicals, or apply funds 
towards the advancement of human knowledge. 

Societe FRANgAisED’ARCHEOLOGiE, 44 , Rue Bonaparte, — Founded 
in 1805 ; devotes itself to the history and antiquities of the Gauls 
and French down to the loth century ; 60 resident members, and 
numerous correspondents. Meets on 9th, 19th, and 29th of each 
month. 

Societe de l’Histoire de France.* —Meets on 1 st Monday of every 
month, at the Archives Imptiriales. It publishes original 
documents on the History of France, previous to 17 89. 

Societe Litteraire Polonaise, 6, quai d’OrliSans.—Founded 
in 4 833, under the auspices of the late Prince Adam Czarto- 
ryski. It meets once a week, and possesses a library of5o,ooo 
volumes, which is public (see p. 31 9.) 

Institut Historique,* 4 2, rue St. Guillaume.—Holds an annual 
conference, wherein matters of history are discussed and prizes 
are awarded. Public and gratuitous lectures. 

Institut d’Afrique, 22 , Place Yendome.—Founded in 18 38, to 
promote the civilisation and colonisation of Africa. 

Societe de Geograpiiie,* 3, rue Christine.—Founded ini 82 i. 
Annual subscription, 36 fr. This society possesses a library, 
containing valuable geographical collections, and many curious 
objects presented to it by travellers. 

(1) The first exhibition of the kind occurred in 1699 ; that of 
1855 was the 78th. There were 2 under Louis XIV., 24 under 
Louis XV., 9 under Louis XVI., 8 under the first Republic, 4 
under the Empire, 6 under the Restoration, and 29 since i&so* 


LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. 105 

Societe des Gens de Lettres/ 14 , Cite Trdvise.—To secure 
rights of literary and scientific authorship ; meets every Monday. 

Societe des Bibliophiles, Hotel de Lauzun, 17, quai d’Anjou. 

• -Prints very scarce or inedited works. 

Athenee des Arts, Sciences, Belles Lettres, et Industrie, 
Hotel de Ville.—Founded in 1792. At the annual public meetings in 
May, prizes are adjudged for useful inventions and improvements. 
The ordinary sittings on Mondays; literary and musical soirees 
every three months. 

Societe des Enfants d’Apollon, 8, rue Neuve Briida —Holds an 
annual meeting, devoted to music and poetry. 

Societe du Caveau. —This society was founded in 1737 by Piron, 
Crebillon junior, and C0II6, and met at that period in a tavern 
called Caveau, in the Carrefour de Bussy. Duclos, Bernard, Mon- 
crif, Helv 6 tius, and Rameau, were successively members of it. 
The members meet twice a-month to cultivate lyrical poetry, and 
on the first Friday of every month at 248 , rue St. Honors, for the 
pleasures of the table. 

Comite Central des Artistes, for the promotion of the fine arts 
and affording assistance to poor artists, meets at the Hotel de Ville 
on the 1st and 3 d Friday of every month. 

Societe des Amis des Arts.* —Its object is to encourage the fine 
arts by purchasing original paintings, statues, drawings, engrav¬ 
ings, &e., by living artists of the French school. The objects of 
art purchased during the year are exhibited at the Louvre, and 
distributed among the shareholders by means of a lottery. Such 
shareholders as do not gain prizes are entitled to a proof engrav¬ 
ing. Eighty proofs before letters are draAvn of every engraving 
and distributed by lottery among the shareholders. 

Societe Libre des Beaux-Arts.— Meets at the Hotel de Ville on 
1 st and 3 d Tuesday of the month. Public sitting in May. 

Societe des Amis des Sciences, 44 , rue de Bonaparte. Founded 
in 18 56 , by the late Baron Thenard, for the relief of the widows 
and orphans of men of science. It already possesses a capital 
of 130,000 fr. 

Societe Philotechnique, 21, Rue de Valois, Palais Royal.— 
Holds public half-yearly meetings, at which papers are read, 
music performed, and pictures, designs, or sculpture exhibited. 

Societe Entomologique, at the Hotel de Ville.—Meets on 2d and 
4 th Wednesday of every month. 

Societe Philomatique,* 8 , rue d’Anjou Dauphine.—Next to the 
Institute, the most scientific body in Paris; 60 members. 

Societe Geologique de France, 39 , rue de Fleurus. It meets 
on the 1st and 3 d Monday of every month. It has a good library. 
In the same house is the 

Societe Meteorologique de France. 

Societe Imperiale et Centrale d’Agriculture, Societe Bota- 
nique, and Societe Imperiale et Centrale d’Horticulture/ 84 , 
rue de Grenelle St. Germain—These three societies, which are 
under the protection of the Emperor, occupy the same premises. 
They possess a valuable library of 8,000 volumes, and annually 
org ipiae flower and agricultural shows in Uie Chomps Elys^ea. 


106 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

SOCIETE 1MPERIALE ZOOLOGIQUE D’ACCLIMATATION, 19, Hie dC 
Lille.—For the introduction of useful breeds of animals into 
France.—Founded in 1 854. It was founded by the late Isidore 
Geotfroy St. Hilaire, and counts upwards of 1,000 members. 
Public silling in May, at the Hotel de Ville (See p. 493.i 

SOCIETE POUR L’ENCOURAGEMENT DE ^INDUSTRIE NATIONALE,* 44, 
rue Bonaparte.—This society has erected at its ow n cost the build¬ 
ing it now occupies. Since 1801, it has expended 500,000 fr. in prizes. 
It has a collection of models to which visitors are admitted on apply¬ 
ing to the director between 10 and 4. The President is M. 
Dumas. 

Academe Nationale Agricole, Manufacturiere et Commer¬ 
cials,* 21, rue Louis le Grand. —Meets at the Hotel de Ville 
on the 3 d Wednesday of every month; awards prizes and me¬ 
dals. In the same house is the 

SOCIETE DE STATISTIQUE UNIVERSELLE. 

Societe du Magnetisme, Rue St. Honore, 123 , Place d’Aligre.— 
Holds a gratuitous public sitting on 1st Thursday of each month, 
at which experiments in animal magnetism are performed. 

Besides these there are numerous other societies in the ca¬ 
pital, full information respecting the objects and constitution 
of which may be obtained at the addresses annexed to them. 
The following are the principal:— Societe cles Instituteurs et 
Institutrices, at the Hotel de Ville.— Societe Asiatique, 7, Rue 
Vivienne. It publishes the Journal Asiatique.—Societe 
■pour VInstruction Elementaire, 7, Rue Vivienne.— Societe 
cles Architectes, 7, Rue Vivienne.— Academie des Arts et 
Metiers, at the Hotel de Ville.— Societe Academique Indus- 
trielle et Artistique, 8, rue de Valois. 

Freemasons. —This is the only secret society in France not 
forbidden by law. It is administered by the Grand Orient of 
France, which has its offices and holds its sittings at No. 16, 
rue Cadet. It has upwards of five hundred ateliers under 
its authority in France, the French Colonies, and foreign 
parts. General or sectional meetings take place once a-month. 
Visiting brethren having the degree of Master are admitted to 
them. The private meetings of the Rit Ecossais are held on 
Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 7 p.m., at 35, rue de 
Grenelle St. Honore. Freemasons are admitted on presenting 
their diplomas. Grand Master, General Mellinet. 

COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS.— The Chamber of Com¬ 
merce consists of the prefect of the department and 21 bankers 
or merchants, 5 of whom are elected annually by the patented 
merchants of Paris, who have carried on business in it for one 
year at least. They communicate with the government upon 
commercial affairs, superintend buildings connected with trade, 
attend to the execution of the laws against smuggling, See. 
They meet at No. 2, Place de la Bourse, every Wednesday. 


COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 107 

The Exchange is open daily from 12 till 3 for the sale of 
public securities, and till 5 for other transactions. Sixty 
agents cle change, sixty courtiers de commerce, and eight 
courtiers d’assurance, named by the government, are alone 
authorised to transact public business here. The sale of 
Stock, railroad shares, bills of exchange, &c., belongs exclu¬ 
sively to the agents de change, but bills are allowed by tole¬ 
rance to be negotiated by brokers. The courtiers de commerce 
certify the price of gold and silver, fix the price of merchandize, 
rates of freight, &c. The courtiers d’assurance fix the rates of 
insurances, &c. The legal price of public effects and goods is 
fixed daily at the close of Change by the agents de change and 
courtiers, and registered by the Commissaire ( see p. 219). 

Bank of France, rue de la Vrilliere.—This institution was 
formed in 1803, by a law which gave it the exclusive privilege 
of issuing notes payable to the bearer at sight, until 18G7. Its 
charter was renewed in 1857, extending its duration to Dec. 
31st, 1897. Since 184 8, it has branches in all the depart¬ 
ments. It also has a branch-bank at Algiers. It is directed 
by a governor, 2 deputy governors, 15 regents, 3 censors, and 
a council, composed of twelve members, which superintends 
the discounts. The governor presides over the council of re¬ 
gency, and every year a general council, composed of 200 of 
the largest shareholders, audits the accounts. The operations 
of the Bank consist in discounting bills of exchange or to order, 
at dates not exceeding three months, stamped and gua¬ 
ranteed by at least three signatures of merchants or others of 
undoubted credit, in advancing money on government bills, 
at fixed dates; on bullion or foreign gold, silver coin, and 
public securities; in keeping an account for voluntary deposits 
of every kind, government securities national and foreign, 
shares, contracts, bonds of every kind, bills of exchange, 
other bills, and all engagements to order or to bearer, gold 
and silver bars, national and foreign coin, and diamonds, with 
a charge for keeping, according to the value of the deposit; 
and length of time (1); in undertaking to recover the pay¬ 
ment of bills for individuals and public establishments having 
accounts current with the Bank, and in making payments for 
them to the amount of the sums entrusted. Open from 9 to 4 
daily, except Sundays and festivals, for the exchange of bills 
against specie and for discounting. To be admitted to dis¬ 
count, and to have a running account at the bank, a request 
must be made in writing to the governor, accompanied by the 

(I) It takes charge of packages from abroad of gold and silver, 
on payment of l fr. 5oe., for any length of time, but without 
answering for them. 


108 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

certificate of three well-known persons. The usufruct of bank 
shares may be ceded, but the fee-simple may still be disposed 
of. The shares may be immobilisees, that is, converted into 
real property, by a declaration of the proprietor. The capital 
of the Bank, which at first consisted of 45 millions of francs, 
is now represented by 182,000 shares of 1,000 fr. each, 
exclusive of the reserve fund. The interest on the original 
price of these shares, which varies commonly from 12 to 15 
percent., can never be under 6 per cent. The lowest rate of 
discount since 1852 has been 3 per cent., and the highest 9. 
The notes of the Bank in circulation, which are of 5,000 fr., 
1,000 fr., 500 fr., 200 fr., 100 fr., and 50 fr., represent 800 
millions of fr.; the specie and bullion in reserve amount to 
about 400 millions of fr. The accounts are made up and sub¬ 
mitted to the governor every evening, and a balance-sheet is 
published once a month (1). This establishment comprises a 
printing-office for its private use (see p. 230). 

Caisse d’Amortissement, et Caisse des Depots et Consi¬ 
gnations, 56, rue de Lille.—These two establishments, both 
under the control of the Government, are administered by a 
committee, composed of the governor of the Bank of France, 
the president of the Chamber of Commerce, a director of 
the Ministry of Finance, and four members appointed by 
the Emperor from among the members of the Senate, the 
Council of State, the Legislative Body, and the Cour des 
Comptes. The Caisse d’Amortissement conducts all operations 
relative to the reduction of the public debt of the country. 
The Caisse des Depots et Consignations, which is open from 
10 a.m. to 2 p.m., receives all moneys deposited in it in con¬ 
sequence of legal awards, and other public proceedings, or by 
any public functionaries, for which it allows interest at the 
rate of 414 per cent, per annum after the money has been 
deposited 10 days. No interest is paid for less than 30 days, 
and 10 days’ notice must be given in order to withdraw 
the capital. Private individuals may also deposit money here 
on the same terms. During the legislative session the president 
of the commission makes a report, which is published. (2) 

(i) Business transacted By the Bank in is66 and 1 867 : — 


Year 

Central Bank 

Departmental Banks 

Bills discounted 
by Central Bank 

1866 

1867 

3,223,251,960 fr. 
2,871,055,758 „ 

5,069,522,197 fr. 
4,501,820,035 „ 

2,582,048,869 fr. 
2,251,688,743 ,, 


( 2 ) The following was the account of the Caisse on Jan. 1 st, 
1868 : Receipts, 1,220,318,760 fr.: payments, 1,097,432,790 fr-; 
in hand, Jan. ist, i22,S85,97o fr- 











CAISSE D’AMORTISSEMENT* 109 

Connected with the foregoing establishment, are the Dotation 
de VArmee (see p. 63n), and the 

Caisse des Retraites pour la Vieillesse, instituted by a 
law of June 18, 1850% Its capital consists of voluntary con¬ 
tributions of 5 fr. at least by persons of any age from three 
years upwards. Foreigners enjoying civil rights are admitted 
to contribute. Every contribution bears 4 % per cent, com¬ 
pound interest. The capital contributed is reimbursed in 
toto at the contributor’s death to his heirs, provided he has 
notified his intention to that effect at the time of his first pay¬ 
ment. At the age of 50 and upwards, the contributor may, 
two years after the first payment, claim an annuity, not 
exceeding 1,500 fr. Every contributor receives a livret, where 
his accounts with the establishment are registered. The Caisse 
des Retraites is conducted by a permanent committee, of 
which the Minister of Agriculture and Commerce is president. 
All the sums it receives are employed in buying rentes. (1) 

Comptoir National d’Escompte, rue Bergere, 14.—This 
establishment, created by the Provisional Government in 1848, 
to meet the commercial crisis of that period, has been found 
so useful, that its charter has been prolonged to 1887. It is 
under the management of a director, an assistant director, a 
Board of 15 administrators, and three censors. There is also 
a Conseil d’Escompte, composed of tradesmen named by the 
Board. Capital, 80,000,000 francs. The operations of the 
Comptoir d’Escompte , which, since 1854, is under the 
authority of the Minister of Finance, consist : 1. in dis¬ 
counting bills with two signatures and falling due within 100 
days, provided they be upon Paris or towns possessing a branch 
of the Bank of France; 2. in discounting bills upon other towns 
of the departments or foreign parts, bearing two signatures and 
falling due within 65 days; 3. in opening accounts to private 
persons depositing their capital, which bears 2 per cent, inte¬ 
rest. It also discounts receipts of goods deposited in the ge¬ 
neral warehouses of the State, in accordance with the decree 
of March 21, 1848. (2) The present rate of discount is 4 per 
cent. This establishment has no longer any branches in Paris 

(1) The receipts of the Caisse des Retraites amounted, Jan. 1st, 
1868, to 10,355,360 fr.; the disbursements to 926,976 fr., 
leaving a balance in hand of 9,428,384 fr. The retraites of all 
the functionaries of the State are now become a separate source 
of revenue, to provide for a Civil Service Superannuation Fund. 

(2) The scarcity of money was so great at that time, that the 
Provisional Government opened the warehouses of the State to 
tradesmen, that they might there deposit their goods. Upon 
the receipts given in return, they raised money by loan at the 
Comptoir d’Escompte. This system still continues. 


HO GENERAL INFORMATION. 

as before ; but it has opened agencies at Nantes and a few 
other French towns, and a’so in London, and at La Reunion, 
Calcutta, Bombay, Hong-Kong, and Shang-hai. The business 
of these agencies consists in local operations, in discounting 
bills drawn on foreign parts as well as France, and remit¬ 
tances to the central Comploir. The first-named transac¬ 
tions amounted in 1807 to 545,626,610 fr. ; the second to 
105,308,226 fr., and the last-named to 146,401,935 fr. The 
Indian famine and other circumstances, have exercised an un¬ 
favourable influence on these foreign agencies, which, never¬ 
theless, last year yielded a profit of 3,830,300 fr. (1) 

Credit Foncier de France, 19, rue Neuve des Capucines.— 
A joint-stock company, authorised in 1852, for the purpose of 
investing money upon mortgage throughout France on the fol¬ 
lowing principles, viz. :—The property to be unshackled by 
previous mortgages ; the loan not to exceed one-half of the 
real value ; maximum interest 5 per cent. ; the mortgage ex- 
tinguishable by an annual payment of from 1 to 2 per cent. 
Another annual charge to cover the ordinary expenses of the 
company, which may issue bonds of 100 fr. and upwards, 
payable to bearer or otherwise, up to the amount of the loans 
effected, bearing interest, and to be withdrawn from circula¬ 
tion in the same proportion as the loans are reimbursed. If 
a mortgager fail to pay his annuity, his property is liable to 
sequestration and sale by public auction. The company is 
under the authority of the Minister of Finance, and cannot 
turn its capital to other purposes. It is bound to extend its 
loans to the amount of 200 millions of francs, the State con¬ 
tributing 10 millions thereto. Its Board of Directors consists 
of a governor and two sub-governors named by the Emperor, 
and 15 members, including three receivers-general of the 
taxes. It has 26 branch establishments in the departments. (2) 
Societe GenErale du Credit Mobilier, 15, Place Yen- 
dome, authorised in 1852. This company buys up public 
bonds, shares, or scrip in railway undertakings, canals, mines, 
Sec. ; issues its own bonds to the amount employed in such 
purchases ; sells, raises money upon, or exchanges the bonds, 
shares, See., in its possession; makes tenders for public loans; 
lends on public bonds, shares, Sec. ; opens running accounts 
on such deposits, Sec. It never engages in time bargains or in 

! (D During the year ending June 30, 1 867, Ihe Comptoir d’Es- 
compte discounted l ,515,7 10 bills, to the amountof 1 , 900 , 972,526 
fr. II also delivered receipts for deposited goods, to the amount 
of 1 3,748,049 fr. Dividend: 57 fr. 

( 2 ) The number of loans contracted with this Company up to 
Jan. 1st, 1867 was 7 , 694 , and amounted to 464,338,668 fr. 



CREDIT MOBILIER. Ill 

optional ones. Capital, 60 millions of francs,in 120,000 shares 
of 500 francs each. Its board consists of a president, two vice- 
presidents, and 15 members, elected by the shareholders (i.) 

RELIGION.—The present constitution confirms “the great 
principles proclaimed in 17 89,” among which are liberty of 
conscience and admission to public employments and dignities 
without distinction of creed. But the open exercise of any 
form of worship is not free in France. For meetings of more 
than 20 persons even for religious purposes, the permission 
of the local authorities is necessary. The Catholic, the Re¬ 
formed, or Calvinist, and the Lutheran churches, and since 
1830, the Jewish worship, are recognized and supported by 
the state; they are at the same time placed under the control 
of the government. The Catholic religion, as that of the im¬ 
perial family and of the great mass of the population, may he 
said to be the religion of the state. Its chief festivals are 
observed as public holidays; when public prayers are ordered, 
the authorities are presumed to be catholic, and attend the 
catholic ceremony. Yet no procession or ceremony is allowed 
outside the walls of a catholic church in towns where there 
are churches for a different worship, and marriage is made a 
civil contract; no religious celebration of marriage can take 
place until the civil contract has been entered into before the 
mayor, nor can the registers of baptisms, marriages and bu¬ 
rials, kept by the church, be received as evidence in lieu of 
the like registers kept by the mayor. 

Catholic Church. —The concordat concluded with the 
Pope by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1801, on restoring Christian 
worship in France, still regulates the government of the church 
and its intercourse with the state. Its leading object is to 
place the church entirely in the hands of the state. The go¬ 
vernment nominates to archbishoprics and bishoprics; the 
Pope then confers the canonical institution. The bishops 
appoint the priests, subject to the approbation of Govern¬ 
ment. No communication from the Papal Court—no doc¬ 
trinal decision or formulary can he published or taught—no 
council held—no change in discipline introduced without 
the sanction of Government. Finally, all differences within 
the church or between its ministers and other persons arising 
out of the exercise of their functions, must be referred to the 
Council of State. Paris is the seat of an archbishopric, 
whose diocese extends over the department of the Seine. 
The Bishops of Meaux, Versailles, Chartres, Orleans, and 

(1) The following was the financial situation of this Company on 
Nov. 1st, 1867 :—Assets, 1 44,725,384 fr.;liabilities, 19l,160,469fr.j 
deficiency, 46,435,085 fr. 


fil'2 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Blois, are the suffragan bishops of the Archbishop of Paris. 
The secular catholic clergy of Paris amount to the number of 
1,000 persons, most of them engaged in parochial duties. 
Each of the arrondissements has its church and cure, with 
eglises succursales, or chapels of ease, forming in all 66 
parishes. We would however particularly recommend to 
the attention of strangers the Madeleine, Notre Dame de 
Lorette, St. Vincent de Paule, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, 
Eglise St. Genevieve, St. Etienne du Mont, St. Germain 
VAuxerrois, St. Eustache, St. Gervais, and St. Sulpice .— 
Churches or chapels not parochial, but deserving of particular 
attention, are the Eglise des Invalides, Ckapelle Expiatoire, 
Chapelle de St. Ferdinand. (See Index.) English sermons 
are preached every Sunday at St. Roch, and at the Chapel 
St. Nicholas, 193, Faubourg St. Honors. 

Convents. —There are above 30 such establishments in Paris, 
principally of nuns, who devote themselves to the education 
of young ladies, the relief of the sick, and other useful pur¬ 
suits. Among the principal we may mention: the Dames 
du Sacre Coeur, 77, rue de Varennes; the Dames de St. 
Michel, 193, rue St. Jacques; the Dames de St. Thomas de 
Villeneuve, 27,rue de Sevres; the Dames Augustines Anglaises, 
at Neuilly, Avenue du Prince Eugene; the Dames Carmelites, 
5 , rue de Messine ; the convent of Capuchins in the rue Sta¬ 
nislas, established in 1852 ; and the Congregation des Sceurs 
de St. Vincent de Paule, or sisters of charity, 140, rue du Bac. 
The latter, about 800 in number, attend the sick in the hos¬ 
pitals, in private houses when required, and to the superin 
tendence of schools for the poor. But ministers of any esta¬ 
blished creed are admitted into the hospitals. 

Seminaries. —The education of the secular clergy in France 
is conducted exclusively in seminaries apart from their lay 
fellow countrymen. Boys enter the petits seminaires at 12, 
and leave at 18, being then considered to have concluded 
their rhetoric, and to be ready to enter on their course of phi¬ 
losophy in the higher diocesan college or grand seminaire. 

The Seminaire de St. Sulpice, in the Place of that name, is 
the grand seminaire for the diocese of Paris. It has a supe¬ 
rior, a director, 13 professors, and 160 students in theology, 
with a branch establishment at Issy for the study of philoso¬ 
phy, where there are 50 students. 

Seminaire de St. Nicolas du Chardonnet. —Forms two di¬ 
visions : one established at the ancient seminary, 18 bis, rue 
de Pontoise, and the other, called Petit Seminaire, at 21, rue 
Notre Dame des Champs. The two houses contain 300 pupils. 
Seminaire des Missions Etrangeres , 128, rue du Bac.— 


ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURGH. 113 

Missionaries are instructed here in the Asiatic languages, and 
iu whatever may fit them for the missions in the East. 

Seminaire du St. Esprit , 30 , rue des Postes.—The pupils 
are destined for missions to the French colonies. 

Institut des Freres des EcolesChretiennes, 27, rueGudinot. 

► -It has a noviciate for the teachers of the Ecoles Chretiennes. 
There are in Paris 10 establishments and 80 classes. 

Caisse Diocesaine. —A fund for affording pensions to aged 
priests, and enabling poor young men to prosecute their 
studies with a view to take holy orders. 

College des Irlandais, 5, Rue des Irlandais.—An endowed 
college for Irish priests, (see p. 424) 

Protestant Churches. —The Reformed and Lutheran 
Churches owe their legal establishment and support from the 
state to the law promulgated by the First Consul in 1802, 
which, with some changes introduced by a decree of the Pre¬ 
sident of the Republic in 1852, continues in force to the pre¬ 
sent time. Like the Catholic Church, they are both under the 
control of the state. The appointment and removal of pastors 
must be confirmed by the government. To the Council of 
State belongs the decision on all questions relating to their 
functions, whilst, with regard to the general assembly, the 
members are either chosen by government, or their delibera¬ 
tions confined to matters authorized by law ; and permis¬ 
sion is necessary for the publication of their resolutions. 

Reformed or Calvinist. —The government of this church 
is entrusted to boards of presbyters, local consistories, and to 
a central council. A board of presbyters elected by the whole 
congregation of each church, and presided over by the pastor, 
administers its affairs under the authority of the consistory. 
There is a consistory for every 6,000 persons, who form a 
consistorial district, but the board of presbyters of the church 
at the chief town of the district is (with the addition of the 
pastor and a lay member from the other churches), itself the 
consistory, and hence this is called the consistorial church. A 
consistory often embraces several churches within its juris¬ 
diction. It generally represents a large church together with 
the smaller ones in its vicinity. The duties of consistories 
are of a purely local character; they manage the funds of the 
churches under their care and vote subscriptions for increasing 
the stipends of pastors, for repairs, dec. They appoint the 
pastors on the presentation of the board of presbyters of the 
church in question. Above the consistories stood the synods, 
composed of delegates from five consistories, and assembling 
in presence of the prefect of the department, for inquiring into 
all matters connected with the faith and government of the 

8 


114 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

church, but on account of some practical difficulties they 
have fallen into disuse. The general synod is omitted 
altogether in the law of 1802. To supply the want of a body 
representing the whole of the reformed church, a central 
council of 15 persons, chosen from the principal members of 
the community has been created. The council acts for the 
reformed churches in all its dealings with the government; and 
takes cognizance of all questions of general interest with which 
it may be entrusted, either by the government or by churches. 
The reformed church has a faculty at Montauban, and is com¬ 
posed of 105 consistories, 1045 places of worship, and 1139 
schools. Its churches in Paris are : VOratoire, 157, rue St. 
Honore; la Visitation de Ste. Marie, 216, rue St. Antoine; 
le Pentemont, 106, rue de Grenelle St. Germain; a chapel at 
38, Boulevard des Batignolles, at 38, Rue Madame, and the 
Eglise de la Trinite, 5 Rue Roquepine. The pastors are 
seven. The eloquent M. Athanase Coquerel is of the number. 

Lutheran. —The Lutheran Church has the same boards of 
presbyters and local consistories as the Reformed Church. 
Over these a Directory of 5 persons, 3 of whom are chosen 
by the government and 2 by the superior consistory, admi¬ 
nister the affairs of the church generally; they have the 
appointment of the pastors. This body appoints also the pro¬ 
fessors of the seminary and college belonging to the Lutheran 
community, and overlooks the teaching and discipline at 
these establishments. On their presentation the government 
appoints ecclesiastical inspectors, whose duty it is to visit the 
churches and see to their good order. The Superior Consis¬ 
tory is formed, 1st, of two delegates from each inspection. 
(There is an inspection for every five consistorial churches, 
the members of the inspection being the pastor and an elder 
of each church.) 2d, of the ecclesiastical inspectors ; 3d, of 
a professor of the seminary; 4th, of the president of the 
directory, and a lay member chosen by the government. The 
consistory is called together once a year, to hear the report of 
the directory on the affairs of the church. The consistory has 
also within its province the maintenance of the constitution 
and discipline of the church, the issue of regulations for the 
internal government of the church, the approval of books and 
formularies for use in worship or teaching. The superior con¬ 
sistory sits at Strasburg, but is represented in its communica¬ 
tions with the government by the consistory of Paris. The 
Lutheran Church has a seminary and college at Strasburg, 44 
consistories, 403 places of worship, and 609 schools.—In Paris 
its churches are: La Redemption, 5, rue Chauchat; les Cannes 
Pillettes, 16 . rue des Billettes (sermons in French and German) 


PROTESTANT CHURCHES. 1 15 

and a chapel, 147, rue du Temple. These churches have to¬ 
gether 5 pastors. Schools with chapels annexed are at 74, rue 
St. Maur, faubourg du Temple, and at 19, rue Neuve Ste. 
Genevieve.—The following are not paid by the state:— 

Church of England. —The clergy of this church is composed 
of the chaplain to the embassy, and 3 ministers. The episcopal 
chapels are: 5, rue d’Aguesseau, Faubourg St. Honore; the 
Marboeuf Chapel, 10 bis. Avenue Marboeuf, Champs Elysees 
and 17, rue de la Madeleine.—Presbyterian service (Church oi.' 
Scotland), at the Chapel of the Oratoire, 160, rue de Rivoli,— 
Congregational Chapel, 23, rue Royale St.Honore.— Wesleyan 
Church, 4, rue Roquepine; boulevard Malesherbes.— Swiss 
Church, 357, rue St. Honore.—The Protestant American 
Chapel, 21, rue de Berry, is open to Evangelical Chris¬ 
tians of all nations and denominations.— American Epis¬ 
copal Church, Rue Bayard. For hours of divine service, 
see Stranger's Diary, in every Saturday’s Galignani's 
Messenger. 

The Free Church, or Union des Eglises Evangeliques, 
holds the same doctrines as those of the Reformed Church. 
To preserve its independence it refuses the support of the 
state. The church is active in spreading Protestantism and in 
providing new places of worship; in doing which it has met 
with the opposition of the civil authorities, under the provi¬ 
sions of Art. 291 of the Penal Code. The pastors are ap¬ 
pointed by the consistories. Synods are held at intervals, in 
which the members, lay and clerical, discuss the affairs of 
the church and decide on admitting new churches into the 
union. The Chapelles Evangeliques Reformers, at 54„ rue’ 
de Provence, 180, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, and 29=, rue 
) Chabrol, belong to this community. 

Protestant Schools. —There are several communal, and other' 
schools of various Protestant persuasions in Paris. The prin¬ 
cipal are at 38, rue Madame; au Pentemont, rue de Crenelle 
St. Germain; 39, rue des ficuries d’Artois; 95, ruade Reuilly;. 
and 6, passage Colbert. As regards the wealthier classes,. 
youths receive a Protestant education, when desired, at all the ■ 
lycees and colleges ; and for young ladies, the Protestant com¬ 
munity have provided a series of educational lectures by emi¬ 
nent professors, under the title of Cours Gradues pour les jeunes ■ 
demci'dlcs Protestantes, at 19 bis, rue delaChaussee d’Antin. 

English Free Schools, for boys and girls, 119, rue du Fau- • 
bourg St. Honore.—Under the patronage cf the British Am¬ 
bassador, and the management of a committee of English i 
clergymen and residents. The children of the English working; 
classes here receive a moral and religious training, and the ele- 






116 GENERAL INFORMATION.! 

ments of useful knowledge. About 150 children arc under the 
care of three teachers, at an annual expense of 10,000 fr., 
obtained from the voluntary contributions of English and Ame¬ 
rican visitors. Connected with these schools is an Asylum for 
destitute English and American orphans. Open daily, Thurs¬ 
days excepted, from 9 till 4. Contributions received by- 
Messrs. de Rothschild, Callaghan, and Galignani. 

Societe Biblique Protestante de Paris, 5, rue des Beaux 
Arts.—The object is to spread the Holy Scriptures, without note 
or commentary, in the versions received and used in Protestant 
churches. It holds an annual public meeting. 

Societe pour VInstruction primaire parmi les Protestants 
de France, 3, ruede FOratoire St. Honore, instituted in 1830. 

Societe des Missions Evangeliques chez les peuples non 
chrctiens, formed in 1832, at Passy, 21, rue Franklin. 

Societe des Traites religieux, 47, ruedeClichy. 

Societe Evangelique de France , 47, rue de Clichy. 

Societe Biblique franpaise et etrangere, 54, rue de Clichy. 

This last society and the Societe Evangelique de France, 
are connected with the Free Church. The Societe Evange¬ 
lique maintains catechists, ministers, and schoolmasters, in 
different parts of France. It assists the free churches which 
are not yet able to maintain themselves, and communicates, 
through delegates, with the government. 

Greek Church. —Rue de la Croix (see p. 204). 

Armenian Persuasion. —Seminaire des Moines Armeniens 
Meketairistes de St. Lazare de Venise, 12, rue Monsieur. 

Jewish Persuasion. —The ministers of this creed are paid 
by the State. A central Consistory, headed by the Grand 
Rabbi of Paris, exercises jurisdiction over the other Consistories 
throughout France in matters relating to religion. There are 
two synagogues in Paris, one at 15, rue Notre Dame de Na • 
zareth (German rite), and another at 23, rue Lamartine (Por¬ 
tuguese rite). (1) A central Rabbinical school is established 
at Metz, for aspirants to the priesthood. (2) 

(1) Two more are to he built by the Jewish community and 
the City, at a cost of 4, 000,000 fr., in the rue de la Victoire and 
Place Royale. 

( 2 ) The total number of Catholic clergy in France is about 
124 , 000 , comprising 6 cardinals, 15 archbishops, 69 bishops, 155 
vicars-general, 660 canons, 3,396 cures, and 39,630 priests of 
eglises succursales, 20 chaplains for the ten cemeteries of Paris, 
30,000 seminarists, and 5o,ooo monks or nuns. The arch¬ 
bishop of Paris has 50,000 fr., the others 20,000 fr. each, and 
bishops 15,000 fr. The 6 bishops or archbishops who are car¬ 
dinals, receive 10,000 fr. besides. Moreover, 23 bishops, residing 
in large and expensive centres of population, receive an addition 


f PROTESTANT SOCIETIES. 117 

CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.— Hospitals. —Numerous es¬ 
tablishments existed in Paris at a very early period; but the 
object of their founders was greatly perverted, and their re¬ 
venues directed to other purposes. From the time of Philip 
Augustus to the revolution of 1789, nothing could exceed the 
maladministration, wretchedness, and consequent mortality, 
which prevailed in these abodes of human suffering. In 1786, 
owing to the deplorable state of the Hotel Dieu, the construc¬ 
tion of four new hospitals was ordained ; but the profligacy 
of the minister Calonne, the low state of the finances, and the 
events which preceded the revolution, caused several millions of 
the hospital fund to be dissipated. By a decree of the Convention, 
July, 16, 1793, part of the patients of the hospitals of Paris 
were transferred into convents or other structures which had 
become national property. By subsequent decrees the super¬ 
intendence of the hospitals was vested in sixteen members of 
the National Convention, two new hospitals were establish¬ 
ed, and the number of beds in those already existing consi- 

of 72,000 fr. amongst them. The indemnities allowed for diocesan 
visits, &c., amount to 173,500 fr. a-year. The total expense of the 
87 sees is estimated at 1,652,500 fr. per annum. The salaries of 
vicars-general and canons vary from 2,500 to 4,500 fr.; those of 
cures from 1,200 to 2,400 fr. Since 18 O 2 , a sum of 55 ,000 fr. 
is allowed for pensions to retired cur£s. The number of 
convents for nuns of different orders is about 3 , 000 , and the 
number of nuns about 24,000 ; there are also in France convents 
of Trappists, Carthusians, Capuchins, and Benedictines, besides 
the priests of St. Sulpice and 2,000 Jesuits. The total cost of the 
catholic clergy in France is estimated at 47 , 000,000 fr.—Ofthe mi¬ 
nisters of other persuasions there are 579 Calvinists, of whom 90 
are presidents of Consistories ; 26 3 Lutherans, of whom 6 are in¬ 
spectors, and 31 presidents of Consistories. The salaries of pro- 
testant ministers vary from 1,600 to 3,000 fr., according to the 
number of parishioners. The protestant seminaries are besides 
endowed with 30 purses of 400 fr. each, and 60 half purses of 
200 fr. The Church of England has at least 40 ministers in 
France. During the last four years 6t new Protestant churches 
were inaugurated in France. The expense of the Protestant 
worship amounts to i,542,o36fr. The Jewish creed counts 65 Rab¬ 
bins and 62 officiating ministers: the expenses amount to 
208,500 fr. There are 86 ministers of other denominations. The 
number of Roman Catholics in France is 35,931,032 ; Calvinists, 
480,507 ; Lutherans, 267,825; Jews, 73,975 ; and other creeds, 
30,000. In 1789 the total number of ecclesiastics was 114 , 000 , 
including 19,000 regular clergy, and 32,000 nuns. Their revenues 
amounted lo 72 millions of francs, and the tithe to 70 millions, 
giving a total of 142 millions. The sum expended for Roman 
Catholic missions is 3 , 880,000 fr. a-year, and the receipts, from 
subscriptions and other sources, 3 , 570,000 fr, 


118 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

derably augmented. By a decree of Jan. 10, 1849, every¬ 
thing relating to public charity has been placed under the 
Administration Generate de rAssistance Publique a Paris. 

It is (under the control of the Minister of the Interior, and is 
managed by a director and a Conseil de Surveillance of 20 
Members, presided by the prefects of the Seine and of Police. 
'The medical treatment administered in the hospitals of Paris, 
;and other particulars, will be found amply described under 
ithe head of Medical Institutions (see p. 130.) (l) 

Hospices. —Under this name are understood in France 
^certain establishments not unlike English alms-houses. The 
following description will fully explain their peculiar nature. 

Hospice des Menages, at Issy (see p. 519)—Is appropriated 
to aged persons of both sexes, married or widowed, who have 
resided in Paris, or the department of the Seine, for two years, 
and contains 42 8 rooms for married couples, 4 54 for widowers 
and widows, and 430 for unmarried people. The best cham¬ 
bers are reserved for couples of from GO to 70, who can give 
3,200 fr. for admission ; the remainder are for couples entirely 
destitute of resources, one of whom must be 7 0 and the other 
at least GO years of age. The chambers for widows and wi¬ 
dowers are granted to those who are GO years old at least, 
have been married 20 years, and can pay 1,600 Ir. on ad¬ 
mission. Each inmate is required to bring a bedstead, two 
mattresses, a bolster, two blankets, two pair of sheets, two 
chairs, and a chest of drawers. Each receives a pound and a 
half of bread per day, and half a pound of raw meat per 
day ; the sum of 3 fr. every ten days; and 2 steres of wood 
and two voies of charcoal a-year. The new buildings, which 
.are well worth a visit, have cost 4,44 6,665 fr.; they com¬ 
prise a laundry, wash-house, baths, a vast court laid out as 
.a garden with three avenues of lime trees, and six other courts; 
refectories, a reading-room, and a library. The present libra¬ 
rian, M. Estienne, descends in a direct line from the cele¬ 
brated printers of that name. Physician, Dr. Potain. 

Institution de Sainte Perine, 4, Place Ste. Genevieve, 
at Auteuil (see p. 189).—This was removed hither from 
the Abbaye de Sainte Perine at Chaillot, suppressed in 
1790, and now demolished. This asylum was founded 
in 1806 by M. Duchaila, for persons of both sexes 
over 60 years of age, of small income. The Empress 
Josephine was a great benefactress to it. The number is 
limited to 210, and the vacancies by removal or death average 

(1) Last year, the hospitals of Paris received legacies and 
donations to the amount of 190,004 fr. in cash, rentes , goods, 
and landed properly. 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 119 

50 annually. Admission is either on a specific payment, or 
the annual sum of 950 fr. (i) There are several pavilions 
and a chapel, situated in a beautiful park. Each member has 
a room and dressing-room to himself. The Soeurs de la Sa- 
gesse have the care of the inmates. Physician, Dr. Besnier. 

Maison de Retraite, or Hospice de La Rochefoucauld, route 
d’Orleans, No. 15.—This house, now chiefly devoted to the 
reception of old servants of the hospitals, was originally es - 
tablished for 12 soldiers, and 12 ecclesiastics. The present 
buildings were erected in 1802 by Antoine. Persons who 
are GO and upwards pay 200 fr. a-year, and those that are 
infirm, 250 fr. Infirm persons of small fortune, upwards 
of 20 years of age, may treat for admission by paying down, 
according to their age, &c., a sum which gradually rises 
from 7 00 to 3,600 fr. The number of beds is 24G. Dr. 
Fournier and the Soeurs de Charite attend this institution. 

Hospice Devillas, at Issy (see p. 519), founded in 1835 by 
a Protestant of that name, for persons of either sex of the age 
of 70 or upwards. The number of inmates is 35; four-fifths, ac¬ 
cording to the founder’s will, must be catholics. 

Hospice Leprince, 187, rue St. Dominique, au GrosCaillou. 
—This hospice was founded in 1819, in execution of the will 
of M. Leprince. It contains 10 beds for old men, and 10 for 
women. The Soeurs de Charite attend patients. 

Hospice des Enfants Assistes, 74, rue d’Enfer, founded iu 
1640 by St. Vincent of Paule, for the reception of foundlings. 
For a child to be received at this hospice a certificate of 
its abandonment must be produced, signed by a commissary 
of police. (2) The commissary is bound to admonish the 
mother or party abandoning the child, and to procure for 
them assistance from the hospital fund, in case of their con¬ 
senting to retain and support the child themselves. Every 
encouragement is given to those who relinquish the idea of 

(1) Inquiries instituted by the Academy of Sciences establish 
the singular fact, that the mortality of the inmates is greatest 
during the first four years of abode; being the 1 st year in the 
proportion of 24 to too, and in the 4th of 9 to loo ; owing pro¬ 
bably to the fatigue and disease in which they arrive, so that 
they do not profit soon enough by the quiet life they lead. 

(2) At Paris, and in several parts of France, boxes called tours 
are established, which revolve on a pivot, and, on a bell being 
rung, are turned round by the persons inside to receive any 
child that may have been deposited in it, without attempting to 
ascertain the parents. The abolition of this humane custom in 
many departments has caused infanticide to become very fre¬ 
quent in those parts, the average annual number of such cases 
having risen from lo4 to 196 . As for indirect infanticide before 


i20 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

abandoning their offspring, and consent to support them at 
home. Of the children received in the hospital, those that are 
healthy are put out to nurse in the country, those that are 
sickly are retained at the hospital as long as requisite. Nurses 
from the country, of good character, arrive daily at the hospital 
in search of employment of this nature, and receive from 4 fr. 
to 8 fr. a-month for each child, according to its age. They 
are kept here a few days, and leave after their charges are 
assigned to them; care being taken to assign the children io 
nurses living as far as possible from their birth-places. After 
two years of age, the nurse may give the child up, when, if no 
other nurse can be found for it, it is transferred to the orphan 
department. The number of deaths is about 18 percent. The 
number of beds in this hospital is 600. The number of chidren 
placed out at nurse in the country is about 3,400. The total 
expense of this institution is on an average 3,000,000 fr. 
per annum. The physician is Dr. Labric; surgeon, Dr. 
Depaul. The internal arrangements of this hospital are 
admirable. The children are first placed in a general 
reception-room, called La Creche, where they are visited 
in the morning by the physicians, and assigned to the dif¬ 
ferent infirmaries. These are four in number: for medical 
cases; for surgical cases; for measles; and for ophthalmic 
cases. In each of these rooms, as well as in the Creche , 
cradles are placed round the walls in rows, and several nurses 
are constantly employed in attending to them. An inclined 
bed is placed in front of the fire, on which the children who 
require it are laid, and chairs are ranged in a warm corner, in 

birth, the number has doubled in most departments ; in the 
Charente, Basses Alpes, &c., it has trebled, and risen to four 
and five times its amount in the H^rault, Morbihan, Orne, and 
Maine et Loire. The number of foundling-hospitals was 296 in 
1832: at present only 152 remain in all France. Agricultural 
colonies for foundlings and orphans have since been established 
in several departments; they are at present 17 in number. The 
yearly average number of foundlings maintained at the Paris 
hospital, calculated upon the last is years, is 4400. It was 6154 
in 1 854. The Administration of Public Assistance has lately 
done much towards the education of foundlings. At the 
age of 4 2, the boys are bound apprentice to some trade, at the 
expense of the Administration, which has, also, by contracts 
with certain private schools, provided a kind of penal establish¬ 
ments for refractory individuals at Montagny (Saone et Loire), 
Varaignes (Dordogne), and other places. The director of a work¬ 
ing asylum at Vaugirard likewise receives about 20 young girls 
whose conduct is open to reproach. A portion of 1 48 fr. is award - 
ed by the administration to female foundlings when they marry, 
provided their conduct has been unexceptionable throughout. 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 121 

which children of sufficient age and strength sit part of the 
day. Every thing is admirably conducted. 

The Hospice des Orphelins, founded in 1669 for girls, but, 
in 1809, opened to boys also, forms but a section of the pre¬ 
ceding one. Children whose parents are dead, or whose parents 
certify that they have not the means of supporting them, are 
received from the ages of 2 to 12, by order of the Prefect of 
Police. Poor persons falling ill, and being obliged to go to an 
hospital, may send their children until they are themselves 
cured and able to return to their occupations. Persons con¬ 
demned to imprisonment have the same facility. They are 
all educated in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are placed 
out in trades, when the period of their residence is expired, 
which is at the age of 21. Children under 15 falling ill in 
this hospice are transferred to the Hdpital des Enfants 
Malades, if older they are sent to other hospitals. 

Both this and the preceding establishment are under the 
superintendence of the Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paule , or 
Sceurs de Charite. Friends or strangers admitted on Mondays 
and Tuesdays from 12 to 4 (seep. 417.) 

Hospice des Incurables (Hommes), at Ivry (left Bank), was 
founded in 1653 by St. Vincent of Paule. The number of beds 
is 497. About 30 of the old men work for their own benefit. 
It formerly contained children, but these are now sent to 
Arras, where, if their health admits of it, they learn trades. 
Physician, Dr. Desnos ; Sceurs de Charite attend. The in¬ 
mates may receive visitors daily from 1 to 3. 

Hospice des Incurables (Femmes), 42, rue de Sevres.— In 
this institution there are 636 beds for women, 70 for children, 
and 15 apartments or rooms for the persons employed. Vi¬ 
sitors are admitted on Tuesdays at 4 p.m. The physician is 
Dr. Empis, the Sceurs de Charite attend (see p. 346). 

Hospice des Quinze-Vingts , 28, rue de Charenton, for the re¬ 
ception of adult blind persons. The number of families living 
here is 300; the blind are received with their families, and 
encouraged to marry, if single. In a few instances both 
husband and wife are blind. None are admitted but those 
both blind and indigent, and such are received here from any 
part of France. Each blind person, if unmarried, receives 
474 fr. 50 c. a-year, including 1J4 lb. of bread daily ; if mar¬ 
ried 584 fr., and for every child of his, 54 fr. more; they are 
lodged gratuitously. The children are sent to a primary 
school; and an asylum is instituted for them in the hospital, 
where boys and girls remain till 14. Their apprentice fees are 
paid by the establishment. Those children that are blind are 
sent to the Institution Imperiale des Jernes Aveugles (see 


122 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

p. 3 3 5). There are besides 1,2 o 0 out-door pensioners attached 
to it, divided into three classes, who receive respectively 
100 fr., 150 fi\, and 200fr. per ann. Physician, Dr. Dclafforc. 
Admission daily from 12 to 3 (see p. 283.) 

Infirmerie de Marie Thcrese, 116, rue d’Enfer.—This hos¬ 
pice. founded by the Viscountess de Chateaubriand, in 1819, 
derives its name from the Duchess d’Angouleme, who became 
its patroness. The persons received here are sick ecclesiastics, 
natives or foreigners. The house contains 50 beds, but the 
inmates having moved in respectable society, the furniture, 
linen, food, 8tc., are of superior quality. Physician, M. 
Charpentier. The Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paule attend. 
The infirmary is supported by voluntary contributions, and is 
under the control of the Archbishop of Paris. 

Maison Eugenie Napoleon, near the Place duTrone, founded 
in 1856 by the Empress Eugenie, for the education of young 
workwomen. It contains at present about 100 pupils, all 
maintained free of expense. Visitors are not admitted. 

Orphelinat du Prince Imperial. —At the time the Prince 
Imperial was born, a committee was spontaneously formed 
for the purpose of collecting subscriptions for a magnificent 
present to the Empress. Her Majesty, however, in accepting 
the gift, declared her intention of applying it to a charitable 
foundation. The Emperor increased the fund by an annual 
contribution of 30,000 fr., and thus the Orphelinat was 
created. Its object is to relieve poor orphans, and give 
them a suitable education by placing them as boarders in 
honest families, binding them apprentices to some trade, &c. 
As the original subscribers chiefly belonged to the department 
of the Seine, the orphans belonging to the latter are preferred. 
The average sum paid for the board and lodging of an orphan 
is 220 fr. The number of orphans admitted since the founda¬ 
tion is 480. The institution, which has already a fixed annual 
income of 50,00Q fr., receives every year numerous donations 
from private persons; it is conducted by a pennanent com¬ 
mittee, of which the Minister of the Interior is president. 

Societe du Prince Imperial pour les Prets de VEnfance an 
Ti 'avail. This society, founded by the Empress in 1862, 
collects donations of ten centimes per week from children, 
with a view to employ the capital thus raised in loans to ar- 
tizans and labourers of established honesty who may be in 
want of funds to purchase tools, materials, seeds, &c. The 
borrower must have lived at least a year in the same com¬ 
mune, and no loan can be obtained for a longer period than 
three years. The capital may be repaid by instalments, and 
the small interest it bears (two and a-half per cent.) is 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 123 

payable half-yearly. No loan can exceed 500fr. The first 
funds proceeded from liberal donations made by all the digni¬ 
taries and functionaries of the State as well as by private 
individuals. Any person contributing at once a sum of 100 
francs, and 10 francs annually besides, becomes a founder ; 
those who contribute an annual sum only, are members. 
Six hundred lady patronesses superintend the society, with the 
co-operation of a supreme committee. The funds at the dis¬ 
posal of the society amounted in 1867 to 1,698,489 fr. Sums 
lent, 1,239,2 81 fr. to 5,000 borrowers. 

The English Hospital and Asylum for the Sick and Infirm 
in Paris, No. 35, Boulevard Bineau, Neuilly.—This chari¬ 
table establishment, founded by Messrs. A. and W. Galig- 
nani, consists of two parts, one for women and the other for 
men, and contains about five-and-twenty beds. The situa¬ 
tion is elevated and airy, and all the modern improvements 
for ventilation, light, water, etc., are introduced. The in¬ 
stitution is attended by regular medical practitioners, and the 
whole is placed under the management of one of the Sisters 
of St. John’s House, London. 

Mai son Hospitaliere d’Enghien, 12, rue Picpus, is a small 
hospice called after the unfortunate duke whose name it bears. 
It was founded by his mother, the Duchess de Bourbon, in 
1819, and after her death was supported by Madame Ade¬ 
laide. It contains 50 beds, 18 for women, 12 for old men, 
residing there, and 20 for convalescents. The Sceurs de 
St. Vincent de Paule attend (see p. 27 9). 

Asile Ste. Anne, 44, Avenue duRoule, for 120 aged females, 
22 of whom are maintained gratuitously on application by their 
cures. The others pay a small annual sum. 

Besides these, there are the Asile Lambrechts, at Courbevoie; 
the Hospice St. Michel, at St. Mande, for 12 septuagenarians; 
a Blind Asylum for girls at Vaugirard, conducted by the 
Sceurs Aveugles de St. Paul ; and the Hospice de la Recon - 
. naissance, at Petit-Letang, in the commune of Garches, con¬ 
taining 316 beds for workmen belonging to certain specified 
; trades, and being upwards of 60 years of age, (see p. 536.) 

See also the Salpetriere, or Hdpital de la Vieillesse (p. 440); 

1 the Institution des Jeunes Aveugles (p. 335); and the Insti- 
] tution des Sourds Muets (p. 420). 

Asile de la Providence, Chaussee des Martyrs, No. 13.— 
Founded in 1804 byM. and A adame Micault de la Vieuville. 
It offers a retreat to old persons of 60 and upwards, at the cost 
of 700 fr. per ann. The Societe de la Providence (see helow) 
contributes to its maintenance ; the Minister of the Interior 
also pays 10,000 fr. per ann., and has the grant of 10 gratui- 




124 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

tous places. A few of the pensioners pay only COO fr. At 
present the number of inmates is 7 2. The director is ap¬ 
pointed by the Minister of the Interior. For the Imperial 
Asiledu Vesinet, and that of Vincennes, seepp. 546, 585. 

Charitable Societies. — Societe de la Providence. — It 
gives out-door relief to poor families and blind persons, pro¬ 
cures poor children a Christian education, besides teaching 
them a trade, and contributes to the maintenance of the Asile 
de la Providence by an annual payment of 6,000 fr. 

Societe de la Morale Chretienne, 12, rue St. Guillaume.— 
Founded in 1821 by the Duke de Larochefoucauld Liancourt 
for the protection of orphans during apprenticeship, the aid of 
poor working people, the gratuitous defence of prisoners, and 
the protection of liberated convicts, by procuring them work. 
It exercises a strict superintendence over those it protects. 

Societe de St. Francois de Regis. —Founded in 1826 and 
under the direction of the Archbishop of Paris. It promotes 
marriage among poor people living in unlawful intercourse, 
and contributes to the legitimizing of their offspring. 

Societe Centrale d’Education et cVAssistance pour les 
Sourds-Muets en France. —Founded in 1850 by the Deaf and 
Dumb Institution of Paris. It procures the Deaf and Dumb 
instruction; binds them apprentice and aids them in their 
old age. Honorary presidents, the Prefect of the Seine and 
the Archbishop of Paris. There is also an Asile des Sourdes - 
Muettes, 33, rue Neuve Ste. Genevieve, maintained by twelve 
charitable ladies, under the direction of Mile. Vivier. 

Societe Tutelaire et Paternelle des Orphelins. —Founded 
in 1850, under the patronage of the Archbishop of Paris. It 
affords protection to orphans, and sends them to the Colonies 
Agricoles of France to learn agriculture. 

Societe de Charite Maternelle, 17 6, rue Montmartre.—Forty- 
eight ladies compose the council of administration, and distribute 
assistance in the different arrondissements, to aid poor women 
in childbed, and encourage them to nurse their children, (l) 

Societe Philantkropique , 12, rue du Grand Ghantier.— 
Founded in 1780, under the patronage of Louis XVI., for 
distributing food, advice and medicine, and assisting chari¬ 
table establishments. They have 10 public kitchens, or four - 
neaux (2), open 6 months of the year, to distribute cheap pro¬ 
visions to the poor, to whom bons of the value of 2 sous are 

(1) The Empress having, on her marriage, sent 100,000 francs 
to this society, her Majesty is now perpetual president ofall simi¬ 
lar ones. The number of women relieved in 1867 was 2 , 435 . 

( 2 ) Cheap kitchens, much on the same plan, now exist in 
various parts of Paris under the patronage of their Majesties; 


CHARITABLE SOCIETIES. 125 

gratuitously given, enabling them to get dishes of 3 sous value 
upon payment of 1 sou. Charitable persons may buy these 
bons at 10 fr. a-hundred, for distribution to the needy. 

Societe Protestante de Prevoyance el de Secours Mutuels y 
48, rue l’Arbre Sec. Formed in 1825, to afford medical 
advice, medicine, and 2 fr. a-day to sick members, who pay 
a subscription of 24 fr. a-year. 

Societe des Sauveteurs de la Seine. —It devises measures 
for saving persons in danger of drowning, and rescuing boats 
on the Seine. Its meetings are held at the Hotel de Ville. 

Societe protectrice des Animaux, 19 , rue de Lille.— 
Awards medals to such persons of the lower classes as have 
displayed particular humanity towards animals. 

British Charitable Fund. —This excellent institution was 
formed in 1822, under the patronage of the British Ambassador, 
for the relief of distressed British subjects, who have not the 
means of returning to England. The funds, raised by voluntary 
subscription, are managed by a committee, who meet on Mon¬ 
days and Thursdays from 2 to 3, at 235, faubourg Saint- 
Ilonore. Few persons of distinction or fortune visit Paris 
without contributing to the Fund. Subscriptions and dona¬ 
tions are received by the Committee, by the British Consul, and 
Messrs. Rothschild ; Callaghan; Galignani. The number of per¬ 
sons relieved in 1867 was 2699 ; of those sent to England, 204. 

Societe Allemande de Bienfaisance, Rue de l'Eveque, No. 
21, established in 1844. Its object is similar, with respect to 
Germans, to that of the British Charitable Fund. 

Societe Helvetique. —Established in 1822, and composed of 
Swiss, without distinction of religion, who relieve their coun¬ 
trymen in distress. Office, 3, rue de l’Oratoire St. Honore. 

twenty were opened in 1867 under that of the Prince Imperial, 
and about 7 0 more are supported by the City, on the following 
economical plan, conceived by M. Klein, a retired judge : 
A kitchen range amounts to 2,500 fr. A kettleful of broth 
made with 100 kilo, of meat costs 89 fr., including salt 
and vegetables. Every kilo, of meat furnishes seven portions, 
so that the kettle yields 700 portions of meat at 5 cent., plus 900 
portions of broth at the same price; total 80 fr. Here therefore 
there is a small loss of 9 fr., but on the other hand rice and 
pulse yield a balance in favour of the establishment; so that 
600 portions yield a gross profit of 5 fr. 13 c. The rent, salaries, 
firing, etc., cost 4 fr. 45c. per diem, leaving a net profit of 
68 c. per diem, besides the sale of bones, etc., making a total 
of 180 fr. for 6 months, or 7 per cent on the capital. The soup- 
kitchens of the Prince Imperial distribute from 40,ooO to 50,000 
portions daily, producing about 60,Ooo francs during the 
winter-season, but at a cost of at least double that sum. 


126 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Maison St. Casimir, 40 , rue du Chevaleret, Ivry.—For 
this interesting Polish institution see page 442. 

Asile des Petits Orpheiins, 119, Chaussee de Menilmontant. 
—Founded in 1849 for orphans from cholera. 

Societe des Amis de I’Enfance, 5, rue d’Alger—Formed for 
the protection and instruction of male children. 

Societe des Amis de la Vieillesse. —At the Hotel de Vi lie. 

Maison pour les Enfants Delaisses, 31, rue Notre Dame 
des Champs, for protecting deserted young girls, and such as 
have lost their mothers. After receiving a moral education, 
they are placed out as apprentices. The number of pupils is 10 o. 

Institution St. Nicolas, 112, rue de Vaugirard, with a 
branch establishment at Issy, for the reception of 1,500 male 
orphans. It contains 25 workshops, where the children learn 
various trades. Gardening and commerce are also taught. 
The board is 300 fr., and 240 fr. only for destitute orphans. 

Maison des Diaconcsses, 95, rue de Reuilly, faubourg St. 
Antoine.—This is an establishment of Protestant Sisters of 
Charity, instituted in 1842, with a view to obtain the care of 
Protestant patients in the hospitals of Paris. The City grants 
them a yearly subvention of 3000 francs. 

Societe pour le Placement en Apprentissage des Orpheiins. 
—Subsidized by Government. Meets at the Hotel de Ville. 

Association pour les Jeunes Orpheiins. —Meets at the Hotel 
de Ville. besides these, we may mention the following : So- 
ciite de St. Vincent de Paule ; Societe philanthropique des 
Classes Ouvrieres; Asile des Vieillards Protestants; Orphi- 
linat Evangelique; Orplielinat Protestant; Societe de Pa¬ 
tronage pour les Aveugles Travailleurs. 

Etablissement des Filatures, rue des Tournelles, 35. It be¬ 
longs to a society that gives work to about 3800 poor women, 
who receive hemp and tlax for spinning ; also to l go weavers, 
for whom frames and tools are procured gratuitously. 

There are also in Paris several associations de travail pour 
les pauvres (work-societies), directed by ladies of high rank, 
who make articles, to be sold at public exhibitions or by 
lottery for the benefit of the poor. Artists and benevolent 
persons are invited to contribute their works, &c. Large 
sums are thus raised and distributed to the poor by the 
Mayors. In most of the parishes of Paris there are associa¬ 
tions de bienfaisancc for similar purposes. 

Creches, or Nurseries, are benevolent institutions under 
the immediate protection of the Empress, where poor women, 
working out of doors, deposit their babies in the morning, 
return to suckle them at the proper hours, and take them home 
in the evening. The creches, now 18 in number, are open 


CHARITABLE SOCIETIES. 127 

from 8 a. m. to 8 in the evening, (l) The Government and 
the City contribute about 7000 francs annually towards the 
support of the Creches. Each mother pays 20 centimes per 
day to the nurses. Medical and every other necessary attend¬ 
ance is provided. The Creche St. Philippe, 182, faubourg St. 
Honore, receives 60 children daily. Visitors are admitted. 

Direction Generate des Nourrices , 35, rue des Tournelles. 
This establishment, attached to the Central Administration 
of Hospitals, procures respectable wet-nurses for families. The 
City pays 31,000 fr. annually towards its support. 

Bureaux de Bienfaisance et Secours a Domicile. —In each 
of the 20 arrondissements there is, under the superintendence 
of the Prefect of the Seine and the General Commission of Pub¬ 
lic Assistance, a bureau to afford relief, gratuitous advice, and 
medicine to the aged, infirm, and indigent, at their own 
homes. An infirmary is attached to each bureau. The relief 
consists of bread, meat, firing, and clothing; besides which 
a monthly allowance of 3 fr. is given to those who are affected 
with palsy in two limbs; 5 fr. to those who are blind, and 
those who are upwards of 7 5 years old; and 8fr. to those who 
arc turned 80. Each bureau consists of the mayor (who is pre¬ 
sident ex-officio ), the deputy-mayors, the rector of the parish, 
curates, and protestant ministers; 12 managers, chosen by 
the Minister of the Interior ; and the commissaries for the poor, 
and Dames do Charite. whose number is fixed by the bureau. (2) 
Out-door medical relief is afforded to the indigent of every ar- 
rondissement, by 1 59 medical men appointed for the purpose. 

Societes de Secours Mutuels entre Ouvriers.— There 
are 73 of these benefit societies, comprising about 14,000 mem¬ 
bers, under the patronage of the municipality, and 281 others, 
comprising 35,373 members. The most ancient, St. Anne , 
dates from 1694. (3) Members of the liberal professions have 
also similar societies called Associations de Preooyance. 

(0 The Creches of the Seine last year received 2 , 3 oo children. 

(2) The following is, in round numbers, a statement of the 
poor annually relieved in Paris by the Bureaux de Bienfaisance, 
at a cost of about 4,300,000 fr. Number of families, 45 ,ooo ; 
men, 23,000; women, 39 , 3 oo; boys, 25,500; girls, 25,500. 
Average total, 1 1 5,300. The 5 th, nth, nth, and 10th arron¬ 
dissements contain the largest number of indigent persons. The 
poor in all France are about 8 per cent, of the population. 

(3) On Jan. 1st, 18G8, there were 5,614 benefit societies through¬ 
out all France, comprising 732,91 8 members. Their aggregate re¬ 
serve-fund amounted to 43 ,000,000 fr. At present 1,865 societies 
have accounts open at the Cause des Rclraitcs (seep. 109), to the 
amount of 7 , 446 ,008 fr., to which must be added a subven¬ 
tion of the slate amounting to 781,494 fr. 



128 GENERAL INFORMATION* 

Administration du Mont de Pi£te, 18, rue des Blancs 
Manteaux, and 7, rue du Paradis, au Marais.—This establish¬ 
ment which, by a decree of March 1852, is under the autho¬ 
rity of the Prefect of the Seine, and the Minister of the Inte¬ 
rior, is managed by a Director named by the latter, and a 
Council presided over by the Prefect, and composed besides of 
the Prefect of Police, 3 members of the Municipal Council, 3 
of the Conseil de VAssistance Publique , and 3 citizens of 
Paris, all named by the Minister of the Interior. The Mont 
de Piete was created in 1777 for the benefit of the hospitals. 
It enjoys the exclusive privilege of lending upon moveables, 
four-fifths of the value of gold and silver articles, and two- 
thirds of the value of other effects, provided no loan exceed 
10,000 fr. at the central, or 500 fr. at the branch establish¬ 
ments. The interest for money which it borrows varies ac¬ 
cording to the times ; it is generally 4 per cent.; the lowest 
rate at which it has ever borrowed was VA per cent. The in¬ 
terest to the public upon pledges used to be 12 per cent; it is 
now reduced to 9, or y 2 per cent, for 15 days, being the shortest 
term on which it can be lent after the lapse of the first month, 
the interest of which must be paid entire, even though the loan 
last but a few days. The pledges of the day before are brought 
every morning from the offices of the different commission- 
naires to the warehouses of the central establishment, or to 
its two succursales. A caisse d’a-comptes enables borrowers 
to refund by instalments the sums advanced ; even 1 fr. is 
received. Parties must be known and be house-holders, 
or produce a passport or papers en regie , otherwise they 
cannot pledge any article. About 3000 are pledged daily. 
Loans are effected from 9 to 4, and articles arc redeemed from 
9 to 2. After a year, or rather 14 months, the effects, if the 
duplicate be not renewed by paying the interest due upon it, 
are liable to be sold by auction, and the surplus paid to the 
borrower, on application within three years from the date of 
the duplicate, after which time the surplus is given to the 
Administration de VAssistance Publique. The Mont de Piete 
has two principal branches in Paris : one in the rue Bonaparte, 
and the other in the rue de la Roquette ; also 20 auxiliary 
offices, where articles may be pledged at the same rate as at 
the former. There are besides 1 9 commissionaires in different 
quarters of the town to receive articles in pledge for the Mont 
de Piete : they take an extra 2 per cent, for the first loan, 2 per 
cent, more for every renewal, 1 per cent, on redeeming, or 1 
per cent, more for cashing the surplus in case the pledge has 
been sold. (1) All the appraisers are conjointly responsible for 
(l) The yearly average of the operations of the Mont de Pi<Re 





MONT DE PIETEl* 129 

the value set upon the articles. The Mont de Piete is insured 
for G,000,000 fr.; the succursales for 2,000,000 fr. (l) 

Savings Bank (Caisse d'Epargne et de Prevoyance ), 
founded in 1818, has its central office at 9, rue Coq Heron (2), 
and 19 branch offices at the Mairies, those of the 1st and 2d 
arrondissements excepted, open on Sundays and Mondays, be¬ 
sides 5 more in the neighbouring communes. The adminis¬ 
tration is gratuitously conducted by a board of twenty-five 
directors; the salaries of clerks and other expenses of the 
establishment arc covered by 20,000 fr. of rentes on the 
State, possessed by the Savings Bank, and by a deduc¬ 
tion of from *4 to 1 per cent, from the interest pay¬ 
able to the holders. Deposits of from 1 fr. to 300 fr. are 
received at a time, f\nd inscribed in a lioret given to the 
depositor, who is not allowed to have more than one in his 
own name. The rate of interest for the ensuing year is fixed 
by the council of directors in the month of December; it is 

for the last 15 years, according to official documents, is as fol¬ 
lows : Articles pledged, 1,985,500; amount of loans, 38,282,9oo fr.; 
average sum lent upon each article, 19 fr. 28 c.; articles on 
which the duplicate has been renewed, 397,370 ; the amount of 
loan they represent, 9 , 805,000 fr.; average sum per article, 
24 fr. 70 c.; articles definitively redeemed, 1 , 435,900 ; sums re¬ 
ceived, 26,999,36o fr.; average sum per article, 18 fr. 8o c.; 
articles sold, 129,890 ; amount cleared by sale, 2 , 996,220 fr.; ex¬ 
penses of administration, 1 , 107 ,87 9 fr. ; total of receipts, 
1 , 577,023 fr.; total of expenditure, 1,343,955 fr. Balance in favour 
of the Mont de Pietd, 233,068 fr. The average number of articles 
delivered to the Police on suspicion of theft is 391 , representing 
loans to the amount of 8,555 fr. The Mont de Piete employs 
300 persons, whose salaries amount to 501,200 francs. 

( 1 ) There are 45 Monts de Piete in France, of which five lend 
gratuilously. Before 17 89, there were only 22 in operation. Last 
vear the number of pledges was 3 ,400,087, representing a value 
of 48 , 922,251 fr. 20 c.; Paris alone doing more business in ad¬ 
vancing money than all the rest put together. One half of the 
loans vary from 1 fr. to 5 fr., and scarcely two-thirds reach 
10 fr.; only about 700 are above 1,000 fr., and 30 above 5,000 fr. 

( 2 ) This establishment suffered to such an extent from the 
revolution of 1 848, that it was scarcely expected to survive the 
shock. The danger, however, was averted through the timely 
interference and support of the National Assembly. The follow¬ 
ing table shows its progress during five years : — 


Years 

Receipts 

No. of Depos. 

Payments 

To Holders 

1863 

21,365,781 fr. 

289,263 

21,263,221 fr. 

9 3,412 

1864 

22,890,226 „ 

252,656 

24,886,224 ,, 

95,270 

1865 

19,535,687 ,, 

276,837 

20,366,730 ,, 

99,141 

1866 

22,496,792 ,, 

292,931 

21,301,564 ,, 

99,81 1 

1867 

22,153,7 1 4 „ 

303,034 

20,109,680 „ 

87,696 


9 











130 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

at present 4% per cent. Not more than 1000 fr. can be held 
by the same person ; beyond that sum, the bank at once invests 
as much of it as will ensure 10 fr. interest, in the rentes or 
stocks. It will do the same upon demand with any inferior 
sum, provided it be sufficient to ensure 10 fr. interest. The 
delay between the demand and the reimbursement of any deposit 
must not exceed 12 days. There are in France 500 of these 
establishments, besides 511 branches. All the money re¬ 
ceived, which mostly belongs to workmen and servants, is paid 
over to the Caisse des Depdts et Consignations. 




MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. 

The high reputation of the French Schools of Medicine, and 
the advantages which they offer to the student, attract so 
many foreigners to France that we shall here put together, for 
the convenience of our professional readers, all that relates to 
them and to the hospitals and medical societies of Paris. 

I. PUBLIC SCHOOLS.—Paris has one of the three French 
faculties or superior schools of medicine, the others being at 
Montpellier and Strasbourg. Each of them confers degrees 
which enable the recipient to practise in every part of France. 
There are also preparatory or secondary schools of medicine 
at Lyons, Bordeaux, Dijon, Toulouse, Caen, Rouen, and other 
towns where most of the studies required for the profession 
may be followed. The faculty of Paris is composed of the 
doyen , or senior professor, 28 professors appointed by the 
government, and 29 professeurs agreges, appointed by com 
petition, and who lecture and examine in the absence of 
the professors. Foreigners arc admitted as students and to 
take degrees in the French schools. To enter for this pur¬ 
pose the student must have attained his 18th year, and pro¬ 
duce the certificate of his birth duly legalised, and, if a minor, 
the consent of his father or guardian for the step he is taking. 
He must likewise be furnished with a certificate of his per¬ 
sonal respectability (bonne vie et moeurs), and if lie is a minor 
and his father or guardian docs not live in the town, he must 
find a surety. A course of study of four years is prescribed 
before the student can be admitted to examination for the 
degree of Doctor of Medicine, or of Medicine and Surgery. 
The student must enter in November, when the scholastic 
year begins. On lodging the above papers with the secretary 
of the faculty, together with a diploma of bachelier-cs-lcttrcs. 




MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. 131 

he enters his name, etc., in a register kept for that purpose, 
and is given a carte d’inscription. lie renews his inscription 
every quarter, until he has taken out sixteen inscriptions. 
When this last inscription expires, viz., at the end of the 
fourth year, he can go in for the final examinations (exametis 
de reception). By the end of the third year, if he has not 
done so before, the foreign as well as the French student, 
must produce the diploma of bachelier-es-sciences in the 
French University, for which he is examined in physics, che¬ 
mistry, and natural history. The cost of this diploma is 50 
fr. lie has likewise to pass an examination in July of the 
first, second, and third scholastic years, on the subjects of 
study of those years ; failing in any of which and in another 
trial in November, he cannot present himself again for exa¬ 
mination, nor take out another inscription till after the lapse 
of a year. From the 8th inscription to the loth the 
student must attend a hospital. There are five examina¬ 
tions, and after them the thesis. The subjects of examina¬ 
tion are detailed in the printed regulations. The last is 
practical. Two cases in the hospitals are selected, on which 
the diagnosis, prognosis, and treatment are expected to be 
given. The candidates are examined in French, viva voce , 
and one after the other in the alphabetical order of their names 
for three-quarters of an hour at each examination. The 
thesis is a printed dissertation on a subject selected by the 
student, and a discussion, viva voce, in support of it and on 
fourteen questions drawn by lot corresponding to the fourteen 
branches of medical science taught in the schools, in the' 
degree of Doctor in Surgery, a farther examination is under¬ 
gone. In case of rejection another trial is generally allowed 
at the end of three months. 

The fees paid in the French faculties are fixed by law., 
viz.:—sixteen inscriptions at 30 fr., 480 fr.; three annual 
examinations (30 fr.), 90 fr.; five final, ditto (50 fr.), 250 fr.; 
five certificats d'aptitude (40 fr.) 200 fr.; thesis, 1 oo fr.; another 
certificat d’aptitucle, 40 fr.; diploma, loo fr.; total, 1260 fr. 
(t) The expense of a medical education in Paris is thus trifling 
compared with that of the British schools. All the lectures at 
the Ecole de Medecine, and most of those at the Ecole Pratique, 
(of which below) are public and gratuitous; nor is any pay¬ 
ment made for hospital attendance. The library of the Ecole 
de Medecine, containing upwards of 30,000 volumes, and its 
excellent Museum of comparative anatomy, are daily open to 
students, except from Sept. 1 to Nov. 1. Gratuitous lectures 

(i) The number of inscriptions taken at the commencement 
of the scholastic year i8Gi-i8G2 r was 1 , 131 . 


132 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

are also given at the Jardin des Plantes, the College de France, 
and the Sorbonne, on general science and subjects relating 
to medicine. (1) 

The Ecolc Pratique d’Anatomie is a kind of supplementary- 
school, composed of 150 students. Fifty new students are 
yearly admitted by competition, and an equal number leave 
the school at the same time, after 3 years’ study. It is here 
and at the establishment of Clamart that the dissections are 
performed. For these, including a proper supply of subjects 
during the whole season, a payment of 30 fr. is expected 
from such students as do not belong to the Ecole Pratique. 
ManyofthecoursesattheFcolePratique are gratuitous;for others 
a small fee, from 10 fr. to 30 fr., is required. Annual prizes 
are given at this school to the amount of 1680 fr. The sub¬ 
jects treated of at this school vary frequently, as they depend 
on the choice of the professors, who, although authorised, are 
mostly agreges who have not yet obtained a regular chair; 
their lectures are therefore private undertakings. They may 
at present be stated as follows:—Anatomy and surgical patho¬ 
logy, by Batailhe; general pathology and therapeutics, by 
Axenfeld; midwifery, by Joulin and Tarnier ; syphilio- 
graphy, by Clerc; operative medicine, by Lefort; surgical 
anatomy, by Guy on and Panas; diseases of the chest, 
by Mandl ; physiology, by Liegeois ; mental diseases, by 
Raynaud; descriptive and physiological anatomy, and also 
herniary surgery, by Dupre ; nervous disorders, by Sandras. 
Courses on various subjects are also given by other gentlemen 
at their own houses or private dispensaries ; on diseases of the 
eye, by Sichel and Desmarres ; female diseases, by Elleaume; 
internal pathology, by Racle; external pathology, by Pean, 
etc. But these lectures, as well as those at the Ecole pratique, 
vary every year, and even every two or three months ; and 
the student will therefore do well to seek for information on 

(I) The following is a list of the professorships, with the names 
of the gentlemen holding them:— Anatomy, Sappey ; Patholo¬ 
gical Anatomy , Vulpian ; Physiology, Lon get ; Medical Physics, 
Gavarret; Hygienics, Bouchardat; Medical Chemistry, Wurtz • 
Medical Pathology , Hardy and Axenfeld ; Surgical Pathology, 
Broca, Verneuil; Operations and Bandages, Denonvilliers ; Medi¬ 
cal Jurisprudence, Tardieu ; General Pathology and Therapeutics 
Lasfegue ; Therapeutics and Materia Medica, S6e; Medical 
Natural History , Baillon ; Pharmacology, Regnault • Clinical 
Surgery, Laugier at the Hotel-Dieu, Gosselin at the Hopital de 
Clinique, and Houel and Richet at the Charite ; Clinical Medi¬ 
cine, Bouillaud and Monneret at La Charity, Grisolle andBehier 
at the] Hotel-Dieu ; Clinical Obstetrics, Depaul at the Hopital de 
Clinique; Obstetrics and Diseases of Females and Children Paiot • 
Histology, Robin. ’ ’ 



MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. 133 

the subject in the entrance-court of the Ecole Pratique, where 
these and all other extraordinary courses of lectures are an¬ 
nounced by regular bills. Clinical lectures are given at nearly 
all the hospitals; thus Dr. See and Dr. Bouchut lecture on the 
diseases of children at the Hopital des Enfans Malades, and at 
the Hopital Ste. Eugenie; on other diseases, Dr. Chassaignac 
at the Hopital Lariboisiere, Dr. Cullerier at the Hopital du 
Midi, etc. (See Hospitals). And at other hospitals private 
lessons are given by the internes (l) on percussion, ausculta¬ 
tion, and the diagnosis of diseases. 

The medical session commences early in November, and 
finishes in July. Many of the private courses continue until 
September ; dissections are not allowed in the summer, but 
operative surgery is permitted. Many of the hospitals are open 
to the students; where tickets are required, as at the Hotel 
Dieu, they may be obtained on application at the bureau of 
the hospital. For admission to the Hopital des Cliniques, a 
ticket must be obtained from the bureau of the Faculty, at the 
Ecole de Medecine. To visit the Lourcine, an hospital devoted 
to the diseases peculiar to females, a special order is necessary, 
and the number of students is limited. The principal hospital 
for lying-in women in the rue du Port Royal is closed to every 
one. In the hospitals the visits of the medical officers take 
place at an early hour, usually at 7 or 8 a.m. 

A peculiar feature of the medical school of Paris is the 
“concours.” Most of the appointments under the profes¬ 
sorships, are determined by this test. A series of subjects 
is selected, on which the competitors are obliged to treat 
both in writing and orally ; these are determined by lot; 
each lesson is delivered in public and before the Faculty, and 
it must occupy an hour. Each candidate must moreover 
write a thesis on a subject selected by the judges, and defend 
it publicly against his opponents. The concours is a severe 
trial, and this system is infinitely superior to that pursued 
in England, where “preferment too often goes by favour,” 
Great advantages are offered in the study of special patho¬ 
logy, hospitals being set apart for patients afflicted with dis¬ 
eases of the skin, those peculiar to infancy and old age, scro¬ 
fula, calculus, syphilis, and mental derangement; and perhaps 
in no other country will the student have equal opportunities 
of observing these affections. A season may indeed be well 

(l) A certain number of students of medicine, surgery, and 
pharmacy, varying from 30 to 40, are annually selected, after a 
concours, to attend the sick in the hospitals of Paris for the pur¬ 
pose of practical instruction. They are called internes ; they re¬ 
main in office for 3 years, and receive a yearly salary of soo fr. 


5134 general information. 

spent in Paris at the Hospital St. Louis, one of the largest in 
Europe, chiefly dedicated to cutaneous and scrofulous diseases. 

Certificates of medical studies in a foreign faculty are taken 
in France in deduction of those required for a degree, and 
with regard to the degree of Bachelier-es-Sciences, if the 
foreign student has obtained a similar degree in his own 
country, he can apply to the Minister of Public Instruction 
for a dispensation. The holder of a foreign diploma wishing 
to obtain a French diploma, has to submit to the examina¬ 
tions established for that degree; but the minister can relieve 
him from the previous studies. (1) 

Officiers de Sante. —These are an inferior class of medical 
practitioners. Before passing the examination of officier de 
sante it is necessary to have taken out 12 inscriptions in a 
faculty, which supposes three years of study, or fourteen 
inscriptions in a preparatory school of medicine. The exa¬ 
mination is either at a faculty or at a preparatory school in 
the presence of a professor of a faculty. The examinations 
take place in Sept, and Oct. They are three in number : 
1. Anatomy; 2. surgery and pharmacy • 3. the elements of 
medicine. Besides this the candidate has to write a disserta¬ 
tion on a question of a practical nature. The expense of the 
examination amounts in all to 580 fr. Officiers de sante can 
only practise in the department where they have undergone 
their examination. In order to practise in another, a new 
examination is requisite. 

Closely connected with the medical schools, is the 

Musee Dupuytp.en, 15, rue de l’Ecole de Medecine.—This 
museum contains many curious and rare specimens, some 
probably unique. It is especially rich in diseased osseous 
structures, and one or two of the luxations are exceedingly 
curious. The collection contains a heart in which the peri 
cardium is wanting, and the extraordinary case published by 
Breschet, of the foetus within the substance of the walls of the 
uterus. In the centre of the hall are numerous specimens of 
diseases of the skin from various causes, modelled in papier- 
mache. This museum is open to students daily, and to stran¬ 
gers on application. Closed from Sept. 1 to Nov. 1. (see p. 390.) 

Amphitheatre of Anatomy for the hospitals of Paris, 17, 
rue duFer a Moulin, on the site of the ancient burial-ground of 
Clamart. It consists of well-ventilated galleries, one story 

(i) It has been calculated that France bad, in 1 868, no less than 
21,000 medical practitioners, and 6,765 apothecaries. Paris has 
i,580 doctors in medicine, 5io chemists, and 241 ofliciers-de- 
sant6. On an average, l medical man for 7 50 inhabitants in 
Paris, and one for every 1000 in the departments. 


MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. 135 

high, lighted from the roof, a museum, a theatre for lectures, 
and several small private rooms for dissections. Bodies are 
removed hither from the hospitals; the number here and at 
theEcolePratique exceeds 4,000 annually (seep. 4 26.) Di¬ 
rector, M. Serres, who lives at the Jardin des Plantes, and to 
whom application must he made for admission to the lectures. 

Medical Botanical Garden. —For this see p. 382. 

Ecole et Maison d’Accouchement, 5, rue du Port Royal. 
—This school and hospital which occupies the buildings of 
the Abbey of Port Royal, rendered famous by the Jesuits and 
Pascal, was devoted to public uses in 1796. It contains in 
all 416 beds, of which 322 are for patients, and 94 for pu¬ 
pils, besides 80 cradles for infants. Women are received here 
in their last month of pregnancy, hut, in case of urgency or 
distress, they may be admitted in their eighth month, on pro¬ 
mising to take charge of their offspring. They are attended 
in their confinement by women, or, if need he, by the surgeons 
of the institution; and, if their health admits of it, are re¬ 
moved from the hospital on the tenth day after their confine¬ 
ment. If, notwithstanding the promise above-mentioned, a 
woman refuses to take charge of her child, a commissary of 
police is called in, who draws up the necessary declaration, 
and the child is sent to the Hopital des Enfants Trouves. If, 
on the contrary, a woman takes her child home, she receives 
a small sum of money, and a supply of clothing. Work of 
different kinds is provided for the women received here. The 
mean term of a patient’s abode here is 18 days. Medical 
students are excluded from this hospital, which is devoted to 
the instruction of young women educating as midwives. 

(Ecole pour les Eleves Sages-Femmes.) The average number 
of pupils is 80, some of whom are maintained at their own 
expense, others by different departments of France : GOO fr. 
a-ycar is the charge for board and instruction. After a course 
of two years, the pupils are examined by a jury, composed 
of the chief professor and the physicians of the hospital, a 
commissary of the Faculty of Medicine, and a commissary of 
the Council-general of Hospitals, and are allowed to practise 
on receiving a diploma. The number of licensed midwives in 
Paris is 4 50. Strangers are not allowed to inspect the hospital. 
The average number of patients received here is 4,000 : the 
mortality is nearly 1 in 18. The average cost of a patient 
is 2 fr. 25 c. per day. Physician, Hervieux; surgeons, 
Danyau and Beraud ; chief midwife, Mme. Alliot. 

Ecole de Piiarmacie, 21, rue de l’Arbalete.—There are 11 
professors attached to this school, who lecture on pharmacy, 
chemistry, natural history, and botany. Apothecaries are 


136 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

examined here before they can practise as such (see p. 414.) 
This establishment has a botanical garden of its own. (1) 

Ecoles Imperiales Veterinaires, et Bergeries Impe- 
ri ales. —The former are three in number, at Alfort near Paris, 
at Lyons, and at Toulouse. The latter, for the breeding and 
treatment of cattle, are at Ramhouillet, Perpignan, La Haye, 
Vaux (Vosges), and Mont Carmel (Pas-de-Calais). 

II. HOSPITALS.—The civil hospitals of Paris are under 
the direction of the Administration of Public Assistance (see 
p. 119.) The military hospitals are under the authority of the 
staff of the garrison of Paris. The Conseil de Surveillance 
decides all administrative measures, and superintends the pro¬ 
perty, accounts, etc. of the hospitals and hospices. The bu¬ 
reaux of the administration are facing the Hotel de Ville ; 
entrance at No. 3 Avenue Victoria (2). 

In all cases of emergency the medical man upon duty at 
any of the hospitals may receive a patient into his establish¬ 
ment. The head physicians also, at their morning consulta¬ 
tions, may receive into their hospitals such patienis as they 
may think proper. Others may be admitted upon application at 
the Bureau Central d’Admission, opposite the cathedral of 
Notre Dame. This is a board of 12 physicians and 6 surgeons, 
who relieve each other by rotation. From this body the 
hospital surgeons and physicians are selected as vacancies 
occur. They indicate the particular hospital for the patient, 
according to the nature of the complaint. Medical advice is 
also given by the board to indigent persons, and children are 
vaccinated here on Thursdays and Sundays at 11. This latter 

(1) A superior school of pharmacy is attached to each of the 
three faculties of medicine of Paris, Montpellier, and Slrasburg, 
and a preparatory school to each of the preparatory schools of 
medicine. The superior schools confer the title of Pharmacien 
and Herboriste de Premiere Classe, who can exercise their profes¬ 
sion everywhere in France. A course of study is required of 
candidates of three years in a superior school, and three and a 
half years in a preparatory school of pharmacy, and three years 
passed at a chemist’s. The expenses of this course, including 
the examination and diploma, are 1,390 fr. The degree of 
Bachelier-es-Sciences in the university is also required. The pre¬ 
paratory as well as the higher schools, admit to the degree of 
pharmacien and herboriste of the second class; the former after 
passing six years in a pharmacy, and one year’s study in a supe¬ 
rior, and a year and a half in a preparatory school. The expenses 
for the pharmacien ol this class are 460 fr., and for the herboriste 
only 50 fr. They cannot practise beyond the limits of the depart¬ 
ment in which they were examined without a fresh examination. 

( 2 ) It appears from the last general returns that the hospitals 
and hospices of Paris support every year (in round numbers) 


HOSPITALS. 137 

operation also takes place every Tuesday at the mairies; to 
encourage this useful practice, three francs are paid to the 
parents for every child; and children not having undergone 
the process are excluded from the free schools of Paris. 

All the civil hospitals of Paris are divided into three classes • 
—1. General Hospitals, open to those complaints for which a 
special hospital is not provided; of these the H6tel Dieu is 
the principal; 2. Special Hospitals, devoted to the sole treat¬ 
ment of particular classes of disorders, as, for example, cu¬ 
taneous, mental, £cc.; and, 3. Hospices or Alms-houses. Those 
under the direction of the Council General of Public Assistance 
are twenty-six. Upwards of 40 millions of francs have been 
expended since 1830 on the hospitals of Paris. (1) 

In 1803 the population of Paris was 7 00,000, and the number 
of beds in the hospitals 5,620 ; in 1851, only 7,337, with a 
population of 1,100,000. (2) The total number of beds in 
the hospitals and hospices is at present 19,600, all of iron. 
All the hospitals have different wards for various diseases. 

The reader will find all the necessary information concerning 
the hospices, at p. 118. We here subjoin a list of the hos¬ 
pitals of Paris, divided into general and special (3.) 

12,000 aged and infirm menand women,and yearly receive nearly 
90,000 patients, 5,200 of whom are always under cure or care ; 
5,000 children are yearly received, and 14,000 are always out at 
nurse in the country; 500 are apprenticed yearly. Besides this 
out-door relief was afforded in 1 86 7 to 56,452 patients. 

( 1 ) There are in France 1 ,333 hospitals or hospices, the property 
of which amounts to 408,254,77ifr.; 1 national hospital for the 
blind, 332,492 fr.; 7,599 bureaux de bienfaisance, 13,557,836 fr.; 
46 monts de piete, the annual loans of which are 48, 000,000 fr.; 
39 asylums for the deafand dumb; 1 school for theblind, 1 56,699 
francs; 144 foundling hospitals; 37 lunatic asylums receiving 
4,826,168 fr.; and 1 Maison Imperiale at Charenton, 459,875 fr., 
making a total of 9,201 establishments, and an annual expenditure 
of 1 1 5,44 1,232 francs. 

( 2 ) The following is the average statistical condition of the 
above institutions calculated for the last ten years '. — General 
and Special Hospitals. — Admissions, 62,500 medical, and 23,400 
surgical cases. Cures, 54,600 medical, and 22,100 surgical cases. 
Deaths, 8,000 medical, and 1,400 surgicnl cases. Average num¬ 
ber of days passed in the hospitals by men 26 ; women, 27 ; 
boys, 32; girls, 35. Mortality, men, 1 in 9 *50 ; women, 1 in 
10 ; boys, 1 in 7 ; girls, 1 in 7*5. The maximum of beds occu¬ 
pied occurred in March and December; the minimum in July 
and August. — Hospices and Maisons de Hetraile. — Admissions, 
7,000 ; exits, 5,600 ; deaths, 1 , 600 . 

( 3 ) For children labouring under scrofula the administration 
lias provided two branch hospitals; one at Forges-les-Bain* 
(§eine-et Oise), the other at Berck-sur-Mer (Pas de Calais), 


138 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

General Hospitals.— HStel Dieu. —Consists of large build¬ 
ings, separated by the southern branch of the river, divided 
into wards for men and for women; there are also gardens for 
convalescents. The laboratory, pharmacy, laundry, &c., are 
all on a large scale. The Hospital is composed of three detached 
parts, connected by means of a covered bridge and a tunnel 
passing under the quay with the new buildings erected in the 
Enclos Saint Julien. The modern portion of the Hotel Dieu 
in the Enclos Saint Julien contains 104 beds. The total num¬ 
ber of beds here at present is 828. Thirty-three Augustinian 
nuns attend. In this house are received the wounded and 
sick, with the exception of children, incurable and insane 
persons, and those with cutaneous or syphilitic diseases. Ly¬ 
ing-in women are admitted only in cases of extreme necessity, 
there being a special hospital for that class of patients. (See 
p. 135.) The yearly average number of patients is 12,000, and 
the mortality 1 in 18. Physicians: Drs. Barth, Fauvel, 
Gueneau de Mussy, Moissenet, Vigla, and Tardieu. Sur¬ 
geons : MM. Laugier and Maisonneuve. Professional men 
ought not to neglect visiting the Hotel Dieu, since it may 
be taken as a large model of the others. (See p. 308.) 

The following is an average view of the annual receipts and 
expenditure of the administration of the Hospitals and Chari¬ 
table Institutions of Paris: net receipts, 10,800,000 lr. ; ex¬ 
penditure, 19,000,000 fr. The receipts include, among other 
items, rents of land, houses, &c., 1,100,000 fr. ; interest of 
capital, 4,700,000 fr. ; contributions of theatres and places of 
amusement, 1,700,000 fr. ; subvention of the Department of the 
Seine for the Enfants Trouves, 2,500,000 fr. ; concessions of burial- 
ground, 200,000 fr. ; sale of medicines, refuse, &c., 3,000,000 fr. 

The expenses include : General Hospitals, 3,000,000 fr.; Spe¬ 
cial Hospitals, 2,ioo,ooofr.; Maison Imperiale de Sante, 300,000 fr.; 
Maisons de Retraite, 65 o,ooofr.; Hospices, 4,000,000fr.; Chari¬ 
table foundations, 350,000 fr.; Buildings and repairs, 600,000 fr.; 
Administration, including physicians, 2,200,000 fr.; Found¬ 
lings, 2,700,000 fr. The average cost of each patient per diem 
is :—General Hospitals, 2 fr. 22 c.; Special Hospitals, 2 fr. 6 c.; 
Hospices, 1 fr. 34 c.; Maisons de Retraite, 1 fr. 34 c. 

The chief items of consumption in the hospitals and hospices 
are: Flour, 5,800,000 kil.; bread, 3,200,000 kil.; wine, 1,800,000 
litres ; meat, 1,400,000 kil.; butter, 110,000 kil.; milk, 1,800,000 
litres. The total value of furniture and linen of every descrip¬ 
tion belonging to the hospitals and hospices of Paris is about 
10,500,000 fr., including 563 bathing-tubs. 

All public places of amusement pay a tax of 8 per cent, on 
their receipts towards the support of the hospitals ; and a heavy 
tax for their support is levied on every piece of ground pur¬ 
chased for the purpose of burial in the cemeteries. Private mu¬ 
nificence also contributes largely to their maintenance. 


HOSPITALS. ' 139 

Hdpital Lariboisiere, rue St. Vincent do Paule, a hospital 
opened in 1854. The same classes of patients as are admitted 
to the Hotel Dieu are received here. The number of beds is 
G34 ; twenty-four Dames de St. Augustin attend on fhe 
patients. Physicians : MM. Boucher de la Ville-Jossy, Richard, 
Gal lard, Oulmont, Duplay, and Herard. Surgeons: MM. 
Cusco, Voillemier, and Chassaignac. (See p. 234.) 

The Hdpital de la Pitie, 1, rue Lacepede, is a hospital an¬ 
nexed to the Hotel Dieu. The buildings are spacious, and contain 
G 20 beds. The yearly average number of patients is 10,7 50; and 
the mortality 1 in 11*50. Physicians: Drs. Marrolte, Behier, 
Matice, See, and Bernutz. Surgeon : M. Gosselin. Clinical 
lectures on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 9 a.m. 
Twenty-five sisters of Ste. Marthe attend (sec p. 42 g.) 

Hdpital de la Charite, 45, rue Jacob. Clinical and medical 
schools have been established here. It contains 474 beds. 
The same diseases are treated as at the Hotel Dieu. The 
Dames de St. Augustin attend upon the sick. The yearly 
average of patients is 8,000, and the mortality 1 in 20.— Phy¬ 
sicians : Drs. Pelletan, Bourdon, Nonat, and Pidoux. Sur¬ 
geons : MM. Velpeau, Malgaigne. Clinical lectures by MM. 
Velpeau, and Bouillaud. (Seep. 355.) 

Hdpital Beaujon, 208, rue du Faubourg St. Ilonore. This 
fine hospital, spacious and airily situated, contains 416 beds. 
The annual average of patients is 5100; the mortality is 1 
in 14. A new system of ventilation has been applied at this 
hospital, which answers admirably. It is well worthy the at¬ 
tention of all who are interested in the subject of hygiene.— 
Physicians: Drs. Gubler, Fremy, Lailler, and Moutard-Martin. 
Surgeons : MM. Morel-Lavallee and Huguier. Drs. Mahon 
brothers for the treatment of the scurf. The patients are 
attended by the Sceurs de Ste. Marthe (see p. 196.) 

Hdpital St. Antoine, 184, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine.— 
The patients here are of the same class as those of the Hotel 
Dieu, and are attended by 30 Sceurs de Ste. Marthe. The 
number of beds is 480. The average yearly number of patients 
is 4,800, mortality 1 in 22. Physicians :• Drs. Bernard, 
Laboulbene, Jaccoud, Mesnet, and Woillez. Surgeon: M. 
Jarjavay (see p. 27 8.) 

Hdpital Nccker, 151, rue de Sevres.—Besides the cases of 
general disease treated at this hospital, there are 7 beds for 
mothers with infants at the breast, and two more, containing 
12 beds, for calculary disease, under the care of Dr. Civiale, 
who gives clinical lectures there on Saturdays from 9 to 11. 
The number of beds is 38G. The yearly average number of 
patients is 4800, and the mortality 1 in 17.—Physicians: 


140 GENERAL INFORMATION. 

Drs. Delpech, Lasegue, Bouley, and Vernois. Surgeon : M. 
Desormeaux. Twenty Sceurs de Charite attend (see p. 337.) 

Hdpital Cochin , 47, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. The 
same cases are treated here as at the Hotel Dieu. The num¬ 
ber of beds is 119; and three Sceurs de Ste. Marie d’Esperance 
attend upon the patients. The annual average number of pa¬ 
tients is 2,100, and the mortality 1 in 10.—Physician: Dr. 
Chapotin de St. Laurent. Surgeon - M. Guerin (seep. 415.) 

Special Hospitals. — Hdpital St. Louis. —40, rue Bichat. 
Though chiefly designed for the treatment of cutaneous dis¬ 
eases and scrofula, it receives also cases of acute disorders and 
surgical cases. It had many patients during the cholera. 
Male patients able to pay, are received in a separate pavilion, 
at the rate of 2 fr. a-day. In-door patients, who are able, 
are encouraged to work in the garden at 1 sou per hour. It 
contains 810 beds, the number of in-door patients having con¬ 
siderably diminished since the discovery of a new method for 
curing the itch, which is now performed in two hours. It has 
a large bathing-establishment for in and out-door patients, 
and is justly celebrated for its medicated and mineral baths, 
particularly those of a sulphureous nature. There is also a 
large vapour bath, admitting by distinct entries eight patients 
at the same time. Another, of a different construction, is 
fitted up with douches, &cc. Upwards of 25,000 persons 
annually avail themselves of the baths, and in a single year 
180,000 have been served. The average number of patients 
yearly is 9000, and the mortality 1 in 19. Gratuitous advice 
is given by the medical men to the poor.—Physicians : Drs. 
Vidal, Gibert, Bazin, Devergie, Hillairet and Hardy, who 
during certain months deliver clinical lectures on diseases of 
the skin. Surgeons: MM. Denonvilliers and Richet. There 
are also 10 internes for medicine, and 7 for pharmacy. The 
Dailies de St. Augustin attend. It has two clinical lecture- 
rooms (see p. 251.) 

Hdpital du Midi, 15, rue des Capucins St. Jacques.—This 
hospital is exclusively reserved for male syphilitic patients. It 
contains 336 beds, besides 21 for persons able to pay. All the 
attendants are males. The annual average number of patients 
is 3,300.—Physician: Dr. Simonet. Surgeon* M. Foucher. 
The clinical lectures of Dr. Ricord are very celebrated. 
Gratuitous advice given to out-door patients from 9 to 10. 
Mortality 1 in 257 (see p. 415.) 

Hdpital Lourcine, 111, rue de Lourcine, reserved for female 
syphilitic patients.—Contains 27 6 beds, of which 226 are for 
adults, and 50 for children ; it is exceedingly well regulated. 
The average uuraber of patients in the year is 2000, and the 


HOSPITALS. 141 

mortality 1 in 27. The nature of the diseases here treated 
being such as to make medical men rather unwilling to under¬ 
take the management of the patients, the Board of Health has 
imposed upon every physician desirous of a place in an hos¬ 
pital the obligation of passing some time in this, so that there 
are continual changes among the medical men attached to it. 
The actual physicians are Dr. Goupil and Dr. Luys ; sur¬ 
geons, MM. Verneuil and Richard Professional men easily 
obtain tickets. 

Hdpital des Cliniques de la Faculty de Medecine, Place de 
l’Ecole de Medecine.—This hospital, containing 189 beds, is 
appropriated to surgical diseases and midwifery. A course of 
midwifery is given here to female aspirants to that profession, 
who during their stay assist in the hospital. The average 
number of accouchements is 1000 a-year ; that of surgical 
cases 600. This is the only hospital of the kind to which 
students are admitted. Clinical lectures are given by the sur¬ 
geon and physician, Nelaton and Paul Dubois, the latter 
for obstetrics. Strangers are not admitted to these lectures 
without a card, to be obtained at the bureau of the Faculty 
of the School of Medecine (sec p. 393.) 

Hdpital des Enfants Malades , 149, rue de Sevres.—Ex¬ 
clusively devoted to the diseases of children. The salubrity 
of the air, and the neighbouring walks, contribute greatly to 
the speedy convalescence of the young patients. Gymnastics 
have been introduced here with great advantage. It contains 
698 beds. The children are admitted from 2 to 13 years of age. 
Gratuitous advice is also given to sick children in the neighbour¬ 
hood. The average number of patients yearly is 3525, and the 
mortality 1 in 38. Physicians : Drs. Bouvier, Archambault, 
Bucquoy, Roger, Blache, and Raclc. Surgeon : M. Giraldes. 
The Dames de St. Thomas de Villeneuve attend on the 
patients (see p. 337.) 

The Hdpital Ste. Eugenie, 89, rue de Charenton, established 
in 1854, under the patronage of the Empress, for the reception 
of sick children, contains 405 beds. Physicians: MM. Barthez, 
Bergeron, Bouchut. Surgeon: M. Marjolin. Ten Dames de 
St. Augustin attend the patients (see p. 283). 

The Salpdtriere, 47, Boulevard de l’Hopital, which may be 
ranked among the hospices, is an hospital for incurable, epi¬ 
leptic, or lunatic female patients, and patients advanced in age. 

It contains 5,204 beds, of which 2,917 only are occupied by 
real patients. The physicians of this establishment are MM. 
Trelat, Charcot, Richard, Vulpian, Mitivie, Lelut, Falret, and 
Baillarger Moreau. Surgeon : M. Follin (see p. 440.) 

The Hdpital MUitaire du Val-de-Grdce contains 1500 beds. 


142 general information. 

—Physicians: MM. Godelier, Lustreman, Charapouillon, and 
Mounier. Surgeon: M. Laveran (see p. 418.) 

Connected with the hospitals are the following : 

Boulangerie Generate, 13, Place Scipion.—This is the ge 
neral bakehouse for all the hospitals (see p. 426.) 

Cave Generate, 2, rue Notre Dame.—Here all the wines, 
spirits, &c., used in the hospitals arc delivered. 

Pharmacie Centrale des Hdpitaux et Hospices, 47, Quai 
de la Tournelle.—A general dispensary, where medicines are 
prepared by steam. 

JIdpital St. Merri, Cloitre St. Merri, for poor patients of the 
4th arrond. It contains 7 beds for men, and 7 for women. 

The Jewish hospital recently erected by M. de Rothschild, 
at 7 6, rue de Picpus, contains 100 beds in all, viz., 60 for 
patients, and 40 for the old and disabled. Physician: Dr. 
Brossard. Surgeon: Dr. Chonnow (see p. 279.) 

There are also charitable societies for medical purposes, 
such as the : Societe nationale de Vaccine; Societe medicate 
diAccouchement; Societe medico-philanthropique; Mai son 
des soeurs garde-malades; Societe medicate du Temple, &.c. 

Besides hospitals, there arc certain establishments called 

Maisons de Sante, which receive patients, who pay various 
prices according to the accommodation they receive. They 
are conducted generally by a medical man of reputation, who 
boards, lodges, and attends the patients; they have gardens, 
and some are agreeable places for sick people. Booms con¬ 
taining a single or several beds may be had according to the 
means of the patients; and persons condemned for political 
offences, whose health would be endangered by the confinement 
of a prison, are sometimes allowed to reside on their parole, 
and on the responsibility of the director of the establishment, 
in a Maison de Sante. Persons confined for debt in any of 
the prisons of Paris may be transferred to a Maison de Sante ; 
but the proprietor of the establishment is held responsible for 
the full amount of the debt due should the prisoner escape. 
The Maison Imperiale de Sante, 200, rue du Faubourg St. 
Denis, the best establishment of the kind, receives patients' 
at from 4 fr. to 7 fr. per diem, operations and attendance in¬ 
cluded. It contains 300 beds. The number of patients ad- c 
mitted annually is about 1600, and the average mortality 1 
in 7.—Physicians: Drs. Cazalis and Chauffard. Surgeon: 
M. Demarquay. 

III. MEDICAL SOCIETIES.—The most important is the 

Academic Imperiale de Medecine, 39 , rue des Saints Peres. 
— Previous to the revolution of 1789 , there was an Academy 
of Medicine and another of Surgery. The former was created 


MEDICAL SOCIETIES. 143 

ill 1770, and the latter in 1731. Upon the formation of the 
Institute, the Medical Academy was annexed to the class of 
the sciences. By an ordonnance of Dec. 20, 1820, the Aca¬ 
demy was restored, and definitively organized by decrees in 
1829 and 183 • The object of its institution is to reply to 
inquiries of the government relative to everything that concerns 
the public health. The number of its resident members, now 
amounting to 114, is to be reduced to loo by extinction; so 
that at present the Academy only nominates one member after 
three extinctions. It has besides 14 free members and 32 
foreign associates, correspondents not included. The Academy 
holds public sittings every Tuesday, at 3 o’clock. 

Societe de Medecine de Paris. —This society devotes its 
attention to epidemic diseases and the human constitution, 
and keeps up a correspondence with physicians and scientific 
men in France and foreign countries. It publishes the Revue 
Medicale. Meets at the Hotel de Ville, 1st and 3d Friday of 
every month, at 3 p.m. 

Societe de Medecine Pratique. —For the study and cure of 
epidemic diseases. • It meets at the Hotel de Ville, first 
Thursday of every month. Gratuitous vaccination. 

Societe de Chirurgie, rue de l’Abbaye, No. 3.—Meets at 
the Hotel de Ville, on Wednesdays, ai 7 p.m. 

Societe d’Observation, for the reading and discussion of 
medical cases.—The meetings are at the Hotel Dieu, on Satur¬ 
days, but are not public. 

Societe Anatomique, one of the most interesting scientific 
societies of Paris.—The most curious specimens of morbid 
anatomy are brought to the society from the different hospitals. 
Meetings on Thursdays, at the Ecole Pratique. 

The Parisian Medical Society, established in 1837, consists 
of English practitioners and students, as well as European 
medical men. 

German Medical Society, 24, rue de l’Ecole de Medecine. 
This society meets every Monday. 

Societe des Sciences Medicales. At the Hotel de Ville on 
1’ie 4th Friday of every month. 

Besides these, there are also the Societes Medico-Pratique 
and Medecine Viter inair e, at the Hotel de Ville; the Societe 
Medicaled’Emulation, at the Ecole de Medecine; the Societe 
de Pharmacie , 21, rue de l’Arbalete; La Societe Biologique, 
at the Ecole Pratique ; and the Societe d’Hydrologic Medicale, 
for the study of mineral waters, 3, Quai Malaquais. More¬ 
over, every arrondisscment of Paris now possesses its medical 
society. 


144 


GENERAL INFORMATION. 


PART II. 

DESCRIPTION OF PARIS IN WALKS. 
FIRST WALE. 

This comprises part of the 1st arrondissement, containing 

The Palace of the Tuileries.— This palace occupies the 
site of a rubbish-shoot and some tile-fields that existed in the 
time of Charles VI. (147 6), and had furnished Paris for four 
centuries. (1) In 1518, Francis I. purchased a house erected 
there by Des Essarts and De Villeroi, for his mother, Louise 
de Savoie, who found the air of the royal residence, the Palais 
des Tournelles in the Alarais, unwholesome. In 1525 this 
princess gave the Hotel des Tuileries to Jean Tiercelin, maitre 
d’hotel to the Dauphin; it subsequently became the property 
of Catherine de Medicis, who had the present edifice begun as 
a residence for herself in 1564. P. Delorme and J. Bullant 
erected the central pavilion, the two adjoining wings, and the 
low pavilions by which they are terminated. Here her work 
stopped, for being alarmed by an astrological prediction bidding 
her beware of St. Germain, and the Tuileries being in the 
parish of St. Germain FAuxerrois, she fixed her abode at the 
Hotel do Soissons. Under Henry IV. the palace was enlarged 
by Ducerceau and Duperac, who raised two other ranges of 
building faced with composite pilasters, and erected lofty 
pavilions at each end. This king also began the long gal¬ 
lery along the quay. Louis XIV. caused Levau and d’Orbay 
to complete it, and to add an attic to the central buildings; 
but he soon after neglected the works, and transferred his 
court to Versailles. The Regent Duke of Orleans resided at 
the Tuileries during the minority of Louis XV.; but from that 
period till the forced return of Louis XVI., the families of 
persons officially attached to the Court occupied it. This 
palace is inscribed on almost every page of the history 
of the first revolution. The mob entered it on June 20, 
1792, and on Aug. to of the same year it was attacked 
and the Swiss guards massacred. It was the official re¬ 
sidence of the First Consul, and subsequently the imperial pa¬ 
lace. In 1808 Napoleon began the northern gallery, to commu- 

(l) The foundations of the old tile-kilns were discovered in 
some excavations made in 1836. 


PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 145 

meate with the Louvre. After the Restoration the Tuileries 
cont need to be the chief residence of the King and Royal Fa¬ 
mily. After the revolution of 1830, when the people attacked 
and took the palace (July 29th), Louis Philippe fixed his re¬ 
sidence in it, and continued to inhabit it till the 24th of Fe¬ 
bruary, 1848, when it was again invaded by the people, and 
the King made his escape. By a decree of the Provisional 
Government, dated Feb. 26th, 1848, which was never put into 
execution, this palace was to be thenceforth transformed into 
an asylum for invalid workmen. During and after the insur¬ 
rection of June, it was used as an hospital for the wounded. 
In 1849 the yearly exhibition of paintings was opened in it. At 
present it is the official residence of the Emperor. 

Exterior. —The whole length of the facade is 330 yards, its 
breadth 36. The southern portion of the palace, called the 
Pavilion de Flore, which has just been rebuilt, is remarkable 
for its rich sculpture. This and the adjoining new edifices 
have been subjected to the process of washing with silicate of 
alumina, which hardens the soft stone used in the building 
(l). The other pavilion in the rue de Rivoli, called Pavilion 
Marsan, is also to be reconstructed. The columns on the 
lower story of the central facade are Ionic; on the second 
Corinthian; on the third Composite. Those on each side of 
the Pavilion de I’Horloge consisted originally of a long gallery 
to the south and the grand staircase to the north. The 
Guichet de VEmpereur , or principal entrance to the court of 
the Tuileries from the Quay, is flanked with two bronze 
lions by Barye. 

Interior. —It would be difficult, in the present state of the 
palace, to give a correct idea of the interior. The entrance 
to Louis Philippe’s apartments was by the Pavilion de Flore. 
The room in which the ex-King consented to his abdication (2), 
and which was called the Grand Cabinet du Roi, still exists ; 
but no portion of this side of the palace is now visible. These 
apartments were formerly occupied by Marie Antoinette. 
Madame Adelaide, the Prince and Princess de Joinville, and 

(1) During the demolitions, several Caps of Liberty of 1793 
were found behind the hangings. 

(2) Some brief particulars concerning that memorable event 
cannot fail to interest the reader. In the course of the night of 
February 23d, barricades had been erected in all the streets of 
the metropolis. At 8 o’clock in the morning, M. Emile de Girar- 
din, the chief editor of the Presse , arrived at the Tuileries, where 
he found MM. Thiers, Odilon Barrot, de Remusat, Duvergier de 
Hauranne, and Lamoriciere, apparently unconscious of what was 
going on. After a brief consultation, these gentlemen hastily 
drew up a short proclamation announcing the formation of a 

10 


146 FIRST WALK. 

their respective suites, lodged in the same pavilion. The 
Pavilion Marsan at the northern end, with part of the 
lateral gallery called the New Gallery of the Louvre, was 
occupied by the Duchess of Orleans, the Comte de Paris, 

Thiers-Barrot ministry, and tlie dissolution of the Chamber of 
Deputies. M. de Girardin immediately took it to the printing- 
office of the Presse to get it printed. But the insurgents, when 
they learned its contents, ridiculed it and would not allow it to 
be stuck on the walls. M. de Girardin then returned to the 
Tuileries, and, having previously informed Marshal Bugeaud of 
what had taken place, was admitted into the royal cabinet. 
The King was in an arm-chair near the window ; MM. Thiers 
and ROnusat were leaning against the chimney-piece. “ What 
is the matter, M. de Girardin?” asked the King.—“ Sire,” was 
the answer, “ your Majesty is losing most precious moments; 
if a hold measure is not at once adopted, in an hour royalty 
will he no more!” These words created great astonishment. 
After a moment of desponding silence, the King said : “ What 
is to be done?”—“ Your Majesty must abdicate,” answered 
M. de Girardin.—“ Abdicate?”—“ Yes, Sire, and confer the re¬ 
gency on the Duchess of Orleans, for the Duke of Nemours 
would not be accepted.”—“ The King then rose and said : 
“ Gentlemen, do you wish me to mount on horseback?” This 
was not approved of; M. de Montpensier stepped forward and 
urged the King to abdicate. The King replied : “ I abdicate...” 
—“ And is the regency of the Duchess of Orleans accepted?” 
asked M. de Girardin. At this moment the report of musketry 
began to be more distinctly heard; it became evident that the 
Tuileries might soon be attacked. “ Go, go, M. de Girardin,” 
exclaimed the King. M. de Girardin obeyed, and attempted to 
reach the office of the Presse, in order to have a proclamation I 
printed with the greatest possible expedition. But finding his 
progress impeded by countless barricades and dense crowds of 
armed people, he returned to the Tuileries. The entrance was 
thronged with persons who had repaired thither to learn the 
real state of affairs. He was recognized by a few, to whom he 
hurriedly communicated tire important news of which he was 
the bearer; whereupon they advised him to draw up the pro¬ 
clamation on the spot, which he did, and wrote several copies 
of it, which were immediately passed from hand to hand, and 
despatched to be posted up. 'All this time the Chateau d’Eau, 
on the Place du Palais Royal, was being defended against a large 
number of insurgents by a handful of determined municipal 
guards and a small detachment of troops. Although about 8,000 
men, consisting of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, were sta¬ 
tioned but a few steps off in the court of the Tuileries, no rein¬ 
forcement was despatched to their assistance. Meanwhile the 
King had sent for Marshal Bugeaud, who had been ready to take 
the command of the city a few hours previous; but the marshal 
told him frankly that the hour for repressing the insurrection 
had gone by. In the dismay following such an announcement, 
the Royal Family were alarmed by the increasing sound 






PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 147 

the Duke and Duchess of Montpensier, the Duke and 
Duchess de Nemours, and the Duke and Duchess d’Aumalc. 
The upper stories and entresols contain apartments for attend¬ 
ants, etc. At present the state apartments are the only portion 
of the palace to which strangers are sometimes admitted with 
a ticket (see p. iv.j, but only when the Emperor is absent. 

The stranger is conducted up a staircase situated between 
the Pavilion de Marsan and the Pavilion de VHorloge, called 
the Escalier de la Chapelle, and which gives access to the 
Antichambre de la Chapelle. Here the ceiling, brought from 
Vincennes, where it adorned the sleeping apartment of La 
Reine Blanche, is worthy of notice, both for its antiquity and 
elaborate workmanship. To the left on entering, a door opens 
into the Foyer da Theatre, which leads to the Theatre, an 
elegant saloon with a vaulted ceiling, supported by Ionic columns 
all around, two tiers of boxes, and the pit. A range of much 
smaller boxes runs immediately below the ceiling. This thea¬ 
tre, which is capable of accommodating 800 spectators, is used 

of musketry. The defenders of the Chateau d’Eau had just 
been overcome, and the victorious multitude were approaching 
the Tuileries. The palace might easily have been defended ; 
but the King, informed of the partial defection of the National 
Guards and of the troops, who had quietly surrendered their 
arms to the people, resolved not to resist, in the hope that 
timely resignation might remove any opposition on the part of 
the people to the accession of the Count of Paris to the throne, 
lie therefore gave orders not to oppose any resistance to the peo¬ 
ple. A few minutes afterwards the excited multitude penetrated 
into theCourt. The King resolved upon flight, and theMonarchy 
of 18 30 was no more. A few random shots were fired from the 
ranks of the insurgents, and shortly afterwards, the abode of 
royalty was unresistingly invaded by the people, who were far 
from expecting so easy a victory. While the splendid saloons 
and chambers of the palace were thus receiving (not for the 
first time) their revolutionary masters, a far different scene was 
proceeding in the Garden of the Tuileries. Persons stationed 
on the balconies of the rue de Rivoli, a few minutes before one 
o’clock, could see a mournful procession, wending its way 
along the southern terrace of the garden. The King, accom¬ 
panied by some National Guards on horseback and about 30 ol- 
ficers in uniform, emerged from the western gate, lending his 
right arm to the Queen. Both were dressed in black. His suite 
addressed the few persons on the Place de la Concorde with 
the words : “ Une grande infortune!” Louis Philippe and his 
consort, after stopping a moment on the very spot where 5G 
years before Louis XVI. had been beheaded, retraced their steps 
to where two small black one-horse carriages were stationed. 
Two very young children were in the first. The royal couple 
entered the vehicles, and immediately set off at full gallop 
along the quays in the direction of Saint Cloud, never to return. 


148 FIRST WALK. 

as a supper-room when balls are given at court. Returning to 
the Antichambre de la Chapelle, a door opposite to the former 
leads to the Salle des travees, or Salon de la Chapelle, from 
which doors communicate with the state pew of the Chapel. 
This and the following saloons are all decorated with gilt panel¬ 
lings, arabesques, &c., upon a white ground. The Chapel, 
which occupies the ground and first-floor, is plain, with a gal¬ 
lery and ceiling resting upon Doric columns of stone and stucco. 
The balustrade of the state-pew is decked with red velvet, em¬ 
broidered in gold. In this chapel there formerly stood a cele¬ 
brated organ, which was destroyed during the revolution of 
1789. Adjoining the Salle des travees is the Antichambre de 
VEscalier d’llonneur, with a ceiling similar to that already 
noticed in the other antechamber, and also brought from Vin¬ 
cennes. The Escalier d’Honneur, leading straight down to 
the ground floor of the Pavilion de I’Horloge, is crowned with a 
balustrade of gilt bronze. Its ceiling rests upon coupled' 
Corinthian columns, producing a striking effect. The ante¬ 
chamber gives access to the Salle de la Paix , formerly Salle 
Louis Philippe, parallel to the Escalier d'Honneur. To those 
who saw it in June, 1848, when filled with National Guards 
taking a hurried nap on trusses of straw, with a mutilated 
equestrian statue of Louis Philippe over the mantel-piece, the 
contrast at present is magical. (1) This splendid hall, which is 
used as a ball room, is 140 feet long by 35 broad, and receives 
light from ten windows looking into the court of the Tuile- 
ries. Its ceiling is supported by engaged Doric pilasters, 
fluted, with ivy leaves for cablings, now gorgeously gilt. 
Over the mantel-piece is an equestrian portrait of the present 
Emperor, by Muller; the panels, corresponding to the windows 
opposite, are filled with immense mirrors. Two colossal 
chandeliers, of crystal and gilt bronze, presented to Louis Phi¬ 
lippe in 1842 by the King of Holland, flank the entrance from 
the antechamber, while at the opposite end is placed a silver 
statue of Peace, chiselled by Chaudet, which was voted to 
Napoleon I by the City of Paris after the peace of Amiens ; it 
is flanked by two marble columns supporting antique busts. 
The visitor now enters the Salle des Marechaux, the splendour 
of which can hardly be surpassed. It occupies the two upper 

(i) After the 24th of February, 1848, a numerous party of 
emeutiers installed themselves in the palace with some loose 
girls, made free with the ex-King’s wine-cellar and provisions, 
and celebrated their orgies night and day in the most sump¬ 
tuous apartments. The King and Queen’s bed-room was turned 
into a dining-room, and, everything belonging to them was 
made subservient to the will of those lords of the hour. They 
were turned out by main force after the lapse of ten days. 





PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 149 

stories of the Pavilion de I’Horloge, and is crowned with a 
lofty quadrangular ceiling, richly sculptured and painted, 
round the base of which runs a gallery, supported by a bold 
projecting cornice all around, except in front, where four 
colossal caryatides, copied from those by Jean Goujon in the 
Louvre (see p. 16 1 ), and gilt from head to foot, perform the of¬ 
fice of supporters. The names of the great battles fought un¬ 
der the first Empire are inscribed on the walls over this gallery. 
Below, the busts of distinguished generals and naval com¬ 
manders grace the walls, while the following portraits of 
Marshals of France adorn the panels : Berthier, Prince de 
Neufchatel; Joachim Murat; Macdonald, Due de Tarente ; 
Massena ; Moncey, Due de Conegliano ; Jourdan; Soult; 
Brune; Lannes, Due de Montebello ; Mortier, Due de Trevise; 
Ney, Prince de la Moscowa; Davoust, Prince d’Eckmuhl; 
Kellerman, Due de Valmy; and Bessiere, Due d’Ystrie. The 
furniture is green velvet and gold. It is used as a ball room 
on stale occasions. A gallery runs round the top of the 
Escalier d’Honneur. From the Salle dcs Marechaux we 
enter the Salon Blanc, formerly Salle d’Attente, now a card- 
room. The decoration of the walls is, as usual, gold on a 
white ground ; the furniture, green silk damask, and gold. 
The carpets of this and the next three rooms are of Gobelins 
manufacture, and have cost 1,000,000 fr. At one end, oppo¬ 
site the chimney-piece, there is an equestrian portrait of . 
General Bonaparte, by Gros. Next follows the Salon 
d’Apollon, containing a fine painting, by Mignard, of Apollo 
and the Muses. The ceiling represents Apollo ushering in 
the day. From this we enter the Salle du Tr6ne, a 
splendid apartment. The hangings are of dark red velvet of 
Lyons manufacture, with palm leaves and wreaths wrought in 
gold. The throne, facing the windows, is surmounted by a 
canopy of the same, with the letter N in small medallions; 
the drapery depending from it is studded with bees embroi¬ 
dered in gold. The chair stands on a plinth, accessible by 
three semi-circular steps, and on the velvet drapery behind it 
is an escutcheon with the imperial eagle encompassed by a 
wreath, surmounted by a helmet with the imperial crown. 
The sceptre and hand of justice form a cross intercepted by 
the escutcheon. Next comes the Salon Louis XIV., the furni¬ 
ture of which is red damask and gold. Over the mantelpiece 
is a portrait of Anne of Austria, with Louis XIY. and the Duke 
of Orleans as children, by Mignard ; between the windows a 
full length portrait of Louis XIV. in his 70thyear; and oppo¬ 
site, Louis XIV. presenting his grandson, Philip V., to the 
Grandees of Spain. The last of this suite of state rooms is ths 


150 first walk. 

Galerie de Diane, being the dining-room, 170 feet long by 32 
in breadth, a fine apartment of the time of Louis XIII. It has 
seven windows, the intervening spaces and the wall opposite 
being filled with eight mythological paintings by Mignard. 
To the right of the entrance is a small bronze equestrian statue 
of Louis XIY. standing on a pedestal, and at the opposite end, 
on a fine table of Florence mosaic, there is a marble bust 
of the Prince Imperial, by M. Carpeaux. This dining-room is 
used on state occasions, when the guests assemble in the 
Salle des Marechaux. Behind these rooms is a suite looking 
into the garden, which is inhabited by the Emperor, and is 
not shown to visitors. Another suite of rooms, consisting of 
an ante-chamber and three square saloons, has been lately added 
by the architect, M. Lefucl, by building over an open terrace 
looking out upon the garden, to which access is obtained by a 
new staircase, with elegant bannisters cast in bronze, then 
gilt and platinised by voltaic agency. Of the three saloons, 
the first is sea-green, the second rose-coloured, and the third 
blue. On these delicate colours suitable subjects have been 
executed in grisaille, and other pictorial ornaments introduced 
by MM. Chaplin and Dubuffe. The chimney-piece of the green 
saloon is of black marble, with delicate wreaths of gilt leaves 
on its architrave. That of the rose-coloured saloon, the most 
richly decorated of the three, is of lapis lazuli; its jambs end 
in reversed acanthus leaves, beautifully chiselled. A fee, 
though strictly forbidden, is usually given. 

Garden of the Tuileries. —A street, called the rue des 
Tuileries, formerly ran between the palace and the garden ; 
but was suppressed in 1G65, when Le Notre was entrusted 
by Louis XIV. with the care of laying out the latter. Two 
parallel terraces form its northern and southern boundaries 
running from the extreme pavilions of the palace. Its length 
is 225G feet, and its width 990 feet. The southern terrace is 
the more elevated and wider of the two, and affords by far 
the best view of the Seine and the palace, with which it is con¬ 
nected by a subterranean passage. That on the north is known 
as the Terrasse des Feuillants , so called from a convent that 
stood there before the revolution of 17 89. Near it was the 
Manege, or riding-school, where the National Assembly held 
its sittings. A handsome iron railing, with gilt spearheads, 
separates it from the rue de Rivoli. The garden is bisected 
throughout its whole length by a wide avenue, extending 
from the palace to a gate giving access to the Place de la Con¬ 
corde (see p. 178), and called Porte du Pont-tournant , from 
a swing-bridge which existed there in 17 89. This avenue is 
met at right angles by a spacious gravelled walk, at a point 


GARDEN OF TIIE TCILERIES. 151 

occupied by a large circular basin. The portion of the 
garden lying westward of this walk is open to the public at 
all seasons ; that on the opposite side separated from the rest 
by a sunken fence is the 

Private Garden, which is only accessible to the public 
when the court is out of town. In 1832 Louis Philippe en¬ 
closed a narrow slip of ground along the whole front of the 
palace for a private garden, and this remained so until 1858, 
when the Emperor caused it to be enlarged to its present ex¬ 
tent. It is crossed by a broad walk running parallel to the 
palace, and skirting the old private garden ; the rest is laid 
out in walks bordered with shrubs and flowers. Two smaller 
basins and various statues, some being copies from the an¬ 
tique, others executed by good masters, complete its decora¬ 
tion. Skirting the sunken fence we find, commencing 
from the side of the rue de Rivoli, the celebrated antique 
group of Laocoon, cast in bronze; Spartacus, by Eoyatier ; 
Theseus killing the Minotaur, by Ramey, jun. ; Themistocles, 
by Lemaire; the Rape of Orythia, by Marsy and Flamen; 
Time carrying away Truth ; Pericles, by Debay ; the Dying 
Spartan, by Cortot; Phidias, by Pradier, all in marble ; and the 
Listening Slave, cast in bronze, by the Kellers (1GG8), a copy 
of the celebrated antique in the Gallery of Florence. Within 
the garden, and in a line parallel to the palace, are Apollo 
Belvidere and Diana with the Ilart, in bronze ; Lucretia and 
Collatinus between, in white marble ; Venus Pudica, and 
Antinous, in bronze ; and, between them, flEncas bearing An- 
chiscs and leading Ascanius, in marble. There are besides, 
around the basins, four statues representing Venus and Sylvan 
Nymphs; in front of the palace, two Shepherds, besides four 
Lions, and the Infant Hercules stifling two serpents, all in 
white marble. The entrance to the private garden from 
the quays is adorned with two sphynxes of white marble, 
brought from Sebastopol. Several elegant marble vases are 
interspersed throughout the garden. The 

Public Garden, commencing from the large basin men¬ 
tioned above, comprises two large flower gardens, followed by 
two groves of fine chesnut trees, elms, planes, and limes, 
skirting the principal avenue and bordering on a large octa¬ 
gonal basin facing the Porte du Pont-Tournant. This part 
also is laid out in flower gardens; the side favoured with a 
southern exposure, known by the name of La Petite Provence, 
is in winter the favourite resort of children and elderly people 
of both sexes, who come here either for exercise or repose and 
warmth. Flights of steps and rising paths lead up to the 
terraces overlooking the Place de la Concorde; the southern 


152 FIRST WALK. 

one, connected with the private garden, is not always open to 
the public; it contains a spacious orangery, and has bridges 
over the two public passages opening upon the quays. The 
northern terrace, occupied with embowered seats, and a newly- 
built Tennis-court , and commanding an excellent view of the 
Place de la Concorde and Champs Eiysees (see p. 18 2). forms 
part of the Terrasse des Feuillants, bordering on the Allee 
des Orangers, so called from the orange trees which are placed 
here in summer. It extends to, and partly skirts the Private 
Garden, and is adorned on that side with a statue of Hercules 
holding a Pigmy, by Bosio, cast in bronze by Carbonneau ; at 
the opposite extremity with Hercules and the Lernian hydra. 
This alley with the adjoining terrace is the most fashionable 
and delightful promenade of Paris, both in summer and in 
winter; during the sunny hours of the latter, and in the cool 
evenings of the former season, all the gayest of the capital 
are to be found here, sitting on chans, which are let out at 
two and three sous a-piece, walking or conversing, or 
listening to the bands of music that play here in summer. On 
Sunday afternoons, the crowd, if not so select, is much more 
numerous, and the alley of orange trees frequently forms a 
compact mass, presenting every variety and colour of dress 
which happen to be the fashion of the hour. 

In each of the two groves is a hemicycle of white marble, 
with a small enclosure in front, laid out as a garden, having 
statues of Atalanta and Hippomenes at the corners, and 
others representing Spring and Autumn in the centre. These 
hemicycles, called Carres d’Atalante, were constructed in 
17 93 by the Convention after the designs of Robespierre. They 
were intended as seats for the areopagus of old men who were 
to preside over the floral games dedicated to youth. There is a 
great deal of good sculpture in this part of the garden. The 
piers of the western entrance are graced with two spirited 
groups, brought hither from Marly : one of Mercury, the other 
of Fame, on winged steeds, by Coysevox. At the corners of 
the western terraces there are two colossal marble lions, copies 
from the antique. On the same terraces on either side of the 
entrance are the nine Muses, and Apollo ; and below, four mas¬ 
terly groups in marble, viz., from north to south, 1, the Tiber, 
by Bourdot; 2, the Loire and the Loiret, by Vaucleve: 3, the Seine 
and Marne, byCoustou; 4, the Nile, by Bourdot. On either side 
of the central grove, on the opposite side of the basin, we remark 
two statues of Bacchus, a Vestal by Legros, termini representing 
the 4 Seasons, Hannibal, by Sloedtz, Scipio Africanus, by Cous- 
t£jn, and Cornelia. In the southern grove is a copy in marble 
of the well-known boar, of which the Grecian original is 




GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES. 153 

preserved in the Gallery of Florence, where another copy in 
bronze by Tacca adorns the Mercato Nuovo. At the eastern 
extremity of the groves are statues of the Diane a la Biche, 
the Capitoline Flora, Julius Caesar, and the Farnesian Hercules. 

The walk which separates the private from the public gar¬ 
den, forms a public passage from the rue de Rivoli to the 
quay, through a gateway passing under the southern 
terrace, and bridged over. Another passage extends from the 
entrance opposite the Rue de Castiglione to the new 

Pont de Solferino, an iron bridge of three arches, the piers 
of which bear the names of the victories won in the last Italian 
campaign; it is 492 feet long by 65 in width, and has cost 
1,17 0,000 francs. (1) 

The garden is open from 7 in the morning till dusk in win¬ 
ter, and till 9 in summer. It is then cleared by beat of drum. 

On leaving the garden by the quay, the visitor will find 
to his left one of the entrances to the Place du Carrousel. 
Refore entering it, he should observe the immense length of the 

Southern Gallery of the Louvre, which was com¬ 
menced under Charles IX. by Ducerceau, built as far as 
tbe central pavilion, called Pavilion Lesdiguieres, by Hen¬ 
ry IV., and continued to the Tuileriesby Louis XIV. The 
earlier or eastern portion, terminating at the above-mentioned 
pavilion, partakes of the style of the Renaissance, with rus¬ 
ticated Tuscan pilasters supporting a range of mezzanini, 
above which are the windows of the celebrated gallery of 
pamtings. The whole of this portion is elaborately and most 
beautifully sculptured. The western portion is now in course 
of reconstruction. We may now enter the 

Place du Carrousel, which derives its name from a great 
tournament held by Louis XIV. in 1662. The spacious Court 
of the Tuileries, separated from the square by an elegant iron 
railing with three entrances, two of which are adorned with 
statues of Victory, Peace, History, and France, communicates 
by arched gateways with the Rue de Rivoli on the north (2), 

(1) A new street has now been opened in a line with the bridge, 
insulating the Palace of the Legion of Honour (see p. 324). 

(2) This court was principally formed by Napoleon 1. Where 
the iron rails stand there were rows of houses and sheds before 
the revolution of 1789 ; and this circumstance materially facili¬ 
tated the attack on the palace by the mob on August 10 , 1792 . 
Napoleon used to review his troops in this vast court. During 
and for some time after the insurrection of June, 1 848, as also 
after the events of December, 1 85 1 , troops were stationed here, 
and the court bore the appearance of a camp. The troops who 
mount guard at the Tuileries are inspected here daily in fm$ 
weather, at about 12 o’clock, with music* 


i 54 FIRST WALK. 

and the Quai du Louvre on the south (1). Before the central 
gate of the railing stands the 

Triumphal Arch, erected by order of Napoleon in 1806, 
under the direction of Perrier and Fontaine, at a cost of 
1,400,000 fr. It is GO feet by 20 at the base, and 45 feet 
high, and consists of a central and two smaller lateral arches, 
intersected by transversal arches of equal height. Eight Co¬ 
rinthian columns of red Languedoc marble, with bases and 
capitals of bronze, adorned with eagles, support the entab¬ 
lature. The attic is surmounted by a figure of Victory in a 
triumphal car and four bronze horses, modelled by Bosio from 
the original, brought from the Piazza of St. Mark at Venice, 
but restored by the Allies in 1815. Over each column, stands a 
marble figure of a soldier of Napoleon’s army, in the uniform of 
the several corps, and over each of the smaller archways is a 
marble bas-relief representing memorable events of the cam¬ 
paign of 1805. (2) The following inscriptions sufficiently 

explain the subjects: Fronting the Louvre, 

“L’arm^e fran$aise, embarquee a Boulogne, menaqait l’Angleterre. 
Une troisieme coalition eclate sur le continent. Les Frangais volent de 
FOcean au Danube. La Baviere est delivree; l’arme'e autrichienne prison* 
niere a Ulm, Napoleon entre dans Vienne. II triompbe a Austerlitz.’* 

On the northern side, 

“ Maitre des Etats de son ennemi, Napoleon les lui rend. II signe la 
paix lc 25 decembre 1805, dans la capitale de la Hongrie, occupee par 
son armee victorieuse.” 

Fronting the Tuileries, 

“ A la voix du vainqueur d’Austei'litz, l’empire d’Allemagne tombe; la 
Confederation du Rhin commence; les l’oyaumes de Baviere et de Wur- 
temberg sont crdds; Venise est rdunie a la couronne de fer ; l’ltalie en¬ 
tire se range sous les lois de son liberateur.” 

On the southern side, 

“Ilonneur a la Graude Arm£e, victorieuse k Austerlitz, en Moravie, le 
2 decembre 1805, jour anniversaire du couronnement de Napoldon.” 

The southern gallery of the Louvre, outside the Court of 
the Tuileries, has now been entirely rebuilt in accordance 
with the design of the older portion. Inside the court and 
on the public square the plan is quite new, the buildings pro¬ 
jecting considerably. The same system is to be adopted on 
the northern side, built by Napoleon I. as far as the Pavilion 
de Rohan, which is opposite to, and the counterpart of, the 
Pavilion Lesdiguieres. The Place du Carrousel has eight 
principal issues, leading respectively to the Rue de Richelieu 
and the Rue de l’Echelle on the northern side ; four arched 

(1) It was at the inner corner of this entrance that Alibaud 
posted himself on June 25, 1836, to fire at Louis Philippe. 

(2) During the Restoration these bas-reliefs were exchanged 
for subjects taken from the campaign of the Duke d’Angouleme 
in Spain, i 823. The former were, however, restored in 1830 * 




SOUTHERN GALLERY OF THE LOUVRE. 155 

passages lead to the quays on the other. At the two pavilions 
above mentioned commence the buildings of the 

New Louvre. —It had often been in contemplation to purge 
the space between the Tuileries and the Old Louvre of the 
mean-looking houses and unseemly sheds, many of which 
were still visible as late as 1850. The elder Napoleon was 
the first to grapple with the abomination, by making room for 
the northern gallery; and the architect Fontaine prepared 
designs for the union of the two palaces. Political events 
prevented the execution of this splendid project under the 
First Empire and the reign of Louis Philippe. In 1848, the 
last document signed by the Provisional Government was a 
decree for the completion of the Louvre, and new plans were 
presented to the Legislative Assembly in 1849, by MM. Vis¬ 
conti and Trelat, but without success. Up to that time, 
upwards of fifty different plans had been presented by various 
eminent architects, whose chief aim was to conceal the defect 
of parallelism existing between the two palaces. At length, 
in 1852, the present Emperor, then President of the Republic, 
decreed a sum of 25,000,000fr. for the purpose. The first 
stone of the new edifices was laid on the 25th of July of 
that year, and the works commenced by M. Visconti, who, 
on his death, in 1853, was succeeded by M. Lefuel. The 
rapid completion of this and other vast public works, is one 
of the most remarkable facts of modern times. 

The general plan of the New Louvre comprises two vast 
lateral piles of buildings, projecting at right angles from the 
southern and northern galleries respectively, so as to form the 
eastern boundary of the Place du Carrousel; then turning into 
the Place Napoleon II!., where they present on each side a 
frontage of 180 metres, interrupted by three sumptuous pavi¬ 
lions. (1) The space between the two corner pavilions is 125 
metres. The defect of parallelism above alluded to is effectu¬ 
ally masked by tw r o octagonal gardens (2) enclosed with 
elegant iron railings, occupying the central space, much in the 
style of the London squares. These gardens are to be adorned 
with equestrian statues of Louis XIV. and Napoleon I The 
old galleries and the pavilions are connected by spacious ar¬ 
caded porticos, elaborately sculptured, fronted with Corin¬ 
thian columns, closed with balustrades, and surmounted by 
terraces on a level with the first story, which are decorated 
with statues of the most illustrious men of France by 53 

(1) They are named as follows: Northern side, Pavilions Tur¬ 
got, Richelieu, Colbert; southern, Moilien, Denon, Daru. 

( 2 ) Here stood the Hotel de Rambouillet , and other houses of 
the nobility which flourished under Louis XIV.; and on the 


lo6 FIRST WALK. 

of the best French artists (1). The pavilions are fronted with 
coupled Corinthian columns supporting Composite ones, sur¬ 
mounted by groups of genii. The front of the Old Louvre 
has been made to harmonize with the new wings; its central 
pavilion called the Pavilion de VHorloge, now bears the 
name of Sully. Its gateway is flanked with two Corinthian 
columns of red marble. The northern side bears the follow¬ 
ing inscriptions:— 

“ 1541. Fran$ois I. commence le Louvre. 

1564. Catherine de Medicis commence les Tuileries.” 

On the southern we see: 

“1852—1857. Napoldon III. rdunit les Tuileries au Louvre.” 

All the pediments of these pavilions are enriched with the most 
complicated allegorical sculpture, and supported by caryatides. 
The triangular pediments of the central pavilions contain the 
following subjects in alto-rilievo: Pavilion Denon, Napoleon 
III., surrounded by Agriculture, Industry, Commerce, and the 
Fine Arts; Pavilion Richelieu: France distributing crowns to 
the most worthy of her children ; Pavilion Sully : Napoleon 
I. crowned by Glory and the Arts. The second stories of the 
intermediate buildings are plain; the roofs between the pavi¬ 
lions are fronted with balustrades adorned with groups of 
genii, emblematical of Agriculture, Science, War, the Seasons, 

site of the southern building was the church of St. Thomas 
du Louvre, built in 11 87 by Robert, Count ofDreux. On the i 5th 
of October, 1 739, the roof suddenly gave way during divine ser¬ 
vice, causing great loss of life. It was subsequently ceded to the 
Protestants, who afterwards exchanged it for the Oratoire. 

(l) The following is a list of them in the order in which they stand, 
commencing from the Pavilion de Rohan: Lafontaine, B. Pascal, 
Mezeray, Molidre, Boileau, Fendlon, Larochefoucault, and P. Cor¬ 
neille. On the north side of the Place Napoleon 111., ist section : 
Grdgoire de Tours, Rabelais, Malherbes, Abailard, Colbert, Ma- 
zarin, Button, Froissart, J. J. Rousseau, and Montesquieu. - 2d 
sect.: Mathieu Mold, Turgot, St. Bernard, Labruyere, Suger, De 
Thou, Bourdaloue, Racine, Voltaire, and Bossuet. From the 
Pavilion Colbert to the Pavilion Sully: Condorcet, Denis Papin, 
Sully, Vauban, Lavoisier, Lalande, Louvois, St. Simon, Joinville, 
Flechier, Ph. de Commines, Amyot, Mignard, Massillon, Ducer^ 
ceau. From the Pavilion Sully to thePavillon Daru : Cl.Lorrain, 
Grdtry, Regnard, Jacques Coeur, Marigny, A. Chenier, Keller, 
Coysevox, J. Cousin, Lenolre, Clodion, G. Pilon, Gabriel, J. Le- 
pautre. South wing from the Louvre, ist sect.: L’Hopital, Le- 
mercier, Descartes, A. Pare, Richelieu, Montaigne, Houdon, Du- 
pdrac, J. de Brosse, Cassini ; 2 d sect.: Daguesseau, Mansart, 
Poussin, Audran, J. Sarrazin, Coustou, Lesueur, C. Perrault, Ph. 
de Champagne, and Puget. On the Carrousel, from the Pavilion 
Mollien: Pierre Lescot, Bullant, Lebrun, Chambiche, Bruant, 
Delorme, B. de Palissy, and RigaulL 


THE NEW LOUVRE. 157 

etc. ( 1 ). The interior construction is remarkable for its solidity 
and safety from fire, all the roofing and flooring resting upon 
iron framework. Each of the two wings we have described 
contains two courts. Those of the southern wing are entered 
from the quay, those of the other from the Rue de Rivoli. 
The first story of the building which intervenes between the 
two courts of the latter contains the Library of the Louvre . (see 
p. 17 5.) The ground floor of the southern wing contains the 

Imperial Stables. —The buildings, which are in the 
Italian style, comprise the Cour Caulaincourt and the Cour 
Visconti, both accessible from the quay through handsomely 
carved oaken gates. In the former there is, to the left the 
first stable, divided into 14 stalls for saddle horses. Adjoin¬ 
ing, is a second containing ten boxes, and a place for washing. 
Gas* lamps are suspended from the ceiling, and cocks supply 
the water required for use. The stalls are of richly carved 
oak, the racks of ornamental bronze, and the chains of steel. 
The gallery after the washing place is 300 feet long by 14 
wide. It has a row of stalls on either side, and accom¬ 
modates 82 horses. The ground-floor of the two other sides 
of the parallelogram comprises coach-houses, harness-rooms, 
etc. In the former there are 12 ordinary state carriages, 
and on the west side 50 of different kinds (2). On the first 
floor is a riding-school, to which the horses ascend by a gentle 
slope. For tickets to visit the stables, apply to M. le General 
Fleury, Premier Ecuyer deS. M. VEmpereur, at theTuileries. 

On the first story of the transversal building separating the 
two courts is the Salle des Etats, for the reception of the great 
bodies of the State ; it communicates with the picture gallery 

(1) The sculptures have required the combined efforts of 53 
artists. The number of subjects executed is 261 ; the expense, 
l,643,40o fr. The total cost amounts to 62 , 500,000 fr. The space 
covered and enclosed by the new buildings is 60,000 metres, 
and, with the Tuileries and old Louvre, nearly 60 acres English. 

( 2 ) The most elegant is llie state carriage. The body is almost 
entirely of plate glass; it is lined with white satin covered 
with gold bees, and the straps and cords are of gold lace. The 
border round the roof of the carriage is bronze finely chased and 
gilt, and forms ciphers and crowns mixed with laurel and oak 
leaves; a gilt eagle is at each corner. This carriage cost 90,000 
fr. The Imperial stud altogether is composed of from 300 to 320 
horses—-saddle, carriage, and post horses; and they are now 
distributed at the Louvre, at the Imperial stables on the Quai 
d’Orsay (see p. 332', in the rue de Monceaux, and at St. Cloud. 
The carriages, 180 in number, are kept at the Louvre and Quai 
d’Orsay. Other stale carriages are at Trianon, (see pp. 332 and 
577 .) The number of coachmen and grooms exceeds 300 . 



158 FIRST WALK. 

(see p. 165). It was here that the ceremony of inaugurating the 
New Louvre took place, on the 14th Aug., 1857, five years 
after the commencement of the work. The rest contains 
rooms for the domestics, barracks for the Cent Gardes, etc. 
All the chimney-flues are of iron, and imbedded in concrete. 

At a distance nf about 300 feet measured diagonally from 
the Pavilion de Rohan, Cadoudal’s infernal machine, intended 
to destroy Napoleon I., on his way to the opera, then situated 
in the Place Richelieu, exploded Dec. 24, 1800. (1) 

On leaving the Place du Carrousel through one of the nor¬ 
thern issues, the visitor will obtain a view of the whole extent 
of the old and new edifices, and remark the tasteful and 
well-studied transition which each section presents from the 
most simple to the most elaborate style of architecture. The 
Pavilion de Rohan, with its 8 elegant niches and statues (2), and 
the front of the New Louvre will especially claim his attention. 

A few steps eastward brings the visitor to 

The Old Louvre. — A castle which existed on the site of this 
palace is said to have been used as a hunting-seat by Dagobert, 
the woods then extending over the actual site of northern Paris 
down to the water’s edge. Philip Augustus, in 1200, formed 
it into a stronghold, and used it as a state prison. (3) It was 
not enclosed within the walls of Paris until 1367 and 13 83. 
Charles V. made many additions to the castle ; the Royal Li¬ 
brary was kept there ; also the various officers of state and 
foreign princes visiting Paris were lodged in it. Francis I. began 
the present building in. 1528, and erected the southern half 
of the western side of the court, as it now exists, after the de¬ 
signs of Pierre Lescot. Ilis son Henry II. continued and extended 
this plan, completing the whole of the western front, now 
called the Vieux Louvre and the wing containing the Ga- 
lerie d’Apollon. The sculptures were entrusted to the di- 

(1) The event occurred in the rue St. Nicaise, a street which 
no longer exists, but which extended into the present Place du 
Carrousel. The house called the Hotel de Nantes, close to which 
the infernal machine had been placed, was pulled down in 1851. 

( 2 ) Those of Soult, Desaix, Ney, and Marceau, to the right; and 
of Hoche, Massena, Lannes, and Kleber, to the left. 

(3) The foundations of this castle were brought to light again 
in 1 866 by order of Ihe Municipality, in order to elucidate some 
obscure historical points. The twin towers flanking the prin¬ 
cipal entrance stood near the centre of the present court, a 
the corner of the south-western quadrangle. The masonry o- 
the foundations was of excellent execution and well preserved 
though scarcely a foot below the surface. It was also ascer 
tained that they extended to the Seine in the direction of the 
Pont desArts, and likewise parallel to the river, passing under 
the Tour de THorloge. 


THE OLD LOUVRE. 15U 

rection of Jean Goujon, and other great artists of the day. 
Henry IV. made some additions to this part of the building at 
the time of commencing the Long Gallery; and during the reign 
of Louis XIII. the central pavilion of the western side was 
added to the erections of Lescot by Lemercier, who also 
built all the lower part of the northern front. Louis XIV., at 
the suggestion of Colbert, decided upon completing this palace, 
and a public competition of architects was opened to furnish 
designs for the new building. A physician, Claude Perrault, 
was the successful competitor, but, some distrust of his abilities 
arising at court, Bernini, who constructed the porticos in front 
of St. Peter’s at Rome, was sent for from Italy, and his plans 
were adopted. Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the east¬ 
ern front; but for some reason Bernini was soon sent 
back to Italy, loaded with presents and a pension, while Per¬ 
rault, to the honour of France and of Colbert, was allowed in 
16G6 to carry his original design into execution. He built the 
eastern front, and that towards the river; but the caprice of 
the King put a stop to the works, and diverted the treasure 
of the country to the building of Versailles. Until 1802 
the greater part of the Louvre remained without a roof, 
and the whole seemed to be destined to fall into ruin. 
Napoleon, however, resumed the works, and under him 
the Louvre was finished, and the surrounding streets and 
places cleared. Its internal arrangements were principally 
effected by Charles X. and Louis Philippe. Charles IX. inhabited 
the old Louvre, and, as is well known, fired from its windows 
looking towards the quay and river on the victims of the St. 
Barthelemy. (1) Henry III., Henry IV., and Louis XIII. also 
resided here, as well as the unfortunate English queen, Hen¬ 
rietta, widow of Charles I. Louis XV., during part of his mi¬ 
nority, inhabited the Louvre; but since then it has been devoted 
to the reception of the various museums of the tine arts, and 
has occasionally been used for great ceremonies of state. (2) 
The eastern front of the Louvre is one of the finest pieces of 
architecture of any age. The grand colonnade is composed of 
28 coupled Corinthian columns, fronting a wide gallery. The 
basement story affords an admirable contrast by its simplicity ; 
and the projecting masses in the centre, and at either end of the 

(1) A window, with a balcony on the first floor, is often shown 
as that from which he fired ; but this must he a mistake, as that 
part of the building was not constructed till long after the year 
1572 , the date of that most perfidious massacre. 

(2) It was attacked by the people, July 28 and 29, 18 30, 
and obstinately defended by the Swiss guards. The dead were 
buried in front of the eastern facade, but afterwards removed 
to the Column of July. 


160 FIRST WALK. 

facade, fronted with pilasters, and pierced with large windows, 
complete the grand features of this side. The central mass of 
the building, forming the gateway, is crowned bv a pediment, 
the raking cornices of which are each of a single piece, 52 feet 
m length and 3 in thickness. This pediment contains a bas- 
relief, executed by Lemot in 1811; and over the grand door¬ 
way is another by Gartellier, of the same date. The gates 
themselves, made by order of Napoleon, are of magnificently- 
worked bronze. (1) The southern front, also the work of 
Claude Perrault, though not so bold, is very fine. It is deco¬ 
rated with forty Corinthian pilasters, and, like the eastern, has 
a richly-adorned pediment over the central compartment. 
The northern front consists of a central and two lateral pa¬ 
vilions projecting from the main body with few but tasteful 
ornaments. In the court, the general features of the ground 
floor are a range of circular arcades, separated by Corinthian 
pilasters, and under each arch is a lofty window. Most of the 
intermediate niches are now adorned with marble statues by 
modern masters, representing Sappho, Circe, Sculpture, the 
Renaissance, Abundance, Glory, etc. The design of the first 
story consists of windows richly dressed, separated by Compo¬ 
site pilasters. The upper story of the western front has the 
windows richly enchased with sculptured groups, trophies, etc. 
The Pavilion de Sul If/, is surmounted by a quadrangular 
dome, resting upon colossal caryatides by Sarrazin The 
sculptures of the wings are by Paolo Poncio and Jean Goujon • 
those of the northern pediments are modern. The central 
gateways were sculptured by Lesueur, Ramey, and Coustou. 
Perrault formed the designs of these three sides, each of which 
is 408 feet, the whole forming a perfect square. 

The court of the Louvre is one of the finest in Europe with 
respect to decoration and proportion. It is now laid out in 
bitumen bordered with beds of ivy and shrubs, surrounded 
with a low railing, and lighted by 24 bronze gas lamps. (2) 

A small garden on the south-western side is called the 
Garden of the Infanta, from the Spanish Princess who came 
into France, in 1721, to marry Louis XV. The wall of the 

(i) The dimensions of this front are :—length, 525 feet-height 
85 feet; width of central compartment, 8 8 feet; width of ex - 

heiSn C nT Pa i r mentS ’ 75 feet; height of basement story. 35 feet- 
height of columns, 10 diameters and a half, or 38 feet nearly 

Th M et ln aWa Ure i takeS UP nearly 10 feet of the enfire height. 5 ’ 
w ' e d ue stnan statue of the Duke of Orleans stood here 

flna n 6 \] e revol 4 ut,on of ‘848. It was then removed to Versailles 
and on the empty pedestal were written the following words-—’ 

23, SS!;? riSmorts pour la liLert6 ’ la MP'ddique reconnaissante, 




THE OLD LOUVRE. 1 61 

Galerie d* Apollon which overlooks it, has been sculptured by 
M. Cavelier. Similar gardens run all round the palace, ending 
at the new wing facing the rue de Rivoli, and are public. 

Interior. —Almost all the interior of this palace is devoted to 
the museums collectively known under the name of Musees 
Imperiaux , for which it is so celebrated. The description of 
the various galleries will be found in the order in which they 
usually occur to a visitor makiug the circuit of the palace. 

The entrance to the museums is by the Pavillion Denon. 
A long vestibule to our left, adorned with antique busts, leads 
to a noble staircase, the two descending branches of which 
both conduct us to the 

Musee des Antiques. —Taking the flight of stairs to our 
left, we enter the Rotunda, lrom which two distinct suites 
radiate as from a centre. That to our right was once occu¬ 
pied by Ann of Austria, and has now been completely re¬ 
paired. The ceilings of the five rooms composing this suite 
are richly gilt, and divided into compartments painted by 
Meynier, Mauzaisse, and barthelemy, or else sculptured in 
basso-relievo. Beginning from the rotunda, these ceilings 
represent : 1, Prometheus giving life to man by the aid of 
the heavenly fire; 2, Justinian delivering his code of laws 
to Rome; 3, Subjects relating to Apollo and Diana; 4, 
Minerva displaying the olive-branch as the fruit of Victory ; 
5, Various passages from the early history of Rome; 6, 
Allegorical paintings of various virtues. A new room, de¬ 
corated like the former, has been added, the ceiling of which, 
painted by Matout, represents various mythological subjects. 
It is lighted by five large windows, looking on the quay ; in 
a niche at its further end, we see an antique statue of 
Augustus. Returning to the rotunda, we find the second 
suite of rooms, opposite the staircase, to our right. First in 
order comes the Salle de Diane, its ceiling and tympans re¬ 
cording the mythology of that goddess. We next see before 
us a long gallery, at the end of which stands the celebrated 
Venus Victrix of Milo. From this we pass directly to a 
parallel gallery, remarkable for a colossal statue of Melpo¬ 
mene, in front of which there is a fine mosaic pavement in 
compartments, the central one antique, representing Victory, 
the others modern, personifying the Nile, the Po, the Danube, 
and the Dnieper. These two galleries, forming part of the 
old Louvre of Charles V. (1380), were inhabited by his 
consort, Jeanne de Bourbon. On leaving these, a door to our 
right leads into the Salle des Caryatides, so called from four 
colossal caryatides by Jean Goujon, copies of which exist in 
the Salle des Marechaux at the Tuileries (see p. 148). They 

\\ 


162 FIRST WALK. 

here support a balcony surmounted by a bas-relief repre¬ 
senting Diana, by Benvenuto Cellini, originally sculptured 
for a fountain at Fontainebleau. All the rooms we have 
described are incrusted with rich marbles, and filled with the 
most valuable specimens of antique sculpture. 

This great collection of antiques dates from 1797, and in 
1803 was opened to the public under the title of the Musee 
Napoleon; it then contained, like the gallery of paint¬ 
ings, all the richest spoils of Italy, but which were res¬ 
tored in 1815 by the allies to their original owners. The pre¬ 
sent collection consists of 240 statues; 230 busts; 215 bas- 
reliefs; and 235 vases, altars, &c.; in all 920 objects. (1) 

We must now return to the staircase, and mount to the top 
of its central branch, when we shall find two flights of 
stairs, one to our left, which for the sake of clearness we 
will call A, and one to our right, represented by B. There 
are two more branches behind us, giving access to a common 
landing, which we will denote by C. The steps A usher us 
into the 

Salle llonde, containing a fine mosaic pavement and exqui¬ 
sitely sculptured white marble vase. The ceiling, painted by 
Couder and Stouf, represents, in the central compartment, the 
fall of Icarus; in the four lateral compartments respectively: 
Hercules suffocating Antaeus; Aeolus mastering the Winds; 
Vulcan shewing Thetis the arms made for Achilles; and, lastly 
Achilles invoking the aid of the Gods against the Scamander 
and Simois. This room gives access to two different series 
of museums: the first is entered by a pair of beautiful gates 
of wrought steel, transported hither from the palace of 
Maisons, which open to our right into the 

Galerie d’Apollon. —This was commenced under Charles IX., 
and completed under Henry IV. by Chambiche, Fournier and 
Plain. It was almost completely destroyed by fire on the 
6th of February 1661; but was rebuilt that very year, the 
ornamental part being entrusted to the hands of Errard, and 
the paintings of the ceiling to Lebrun. The latter was after¬ 
wards, however, appointed to direct the whole. Louis XIV. 
having, in the interval, turned both his attention and his trea¬ 
sures to the palace of Versailles, the Galerie d’Apollon was 
forgotten, and during the following century divided into apart¬ 
ments, where the Royal Academies, and especially that of 
Sculpture and Painting, held their sittings. In 1747 and 1748 
the paintings of several living artists were exhibited there ; in 

(l) Complete catalogues of all the museums of the Louvre 
may be had on the spot. The produce of their sale amounts 
to upwards of 200,000 fr. 


MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 163 

1 7 56 the gallery had become the studio of Vanloo ; and in 1787 
it became a picture-gallery. Iu 1826 it was found necessary 
to reconstruct the ceiling ; but it was not until the 5th 
of June 1851, that this saloon was solemnly re-opened to 
the public, under the auspices of the Emperor,‘ then President 
of the Republic. The Gallery is 184 feet in length and 28 feet in 
breadth; it has 12 windows looking upon the Jardin de lTn- 
fante, and a balcony commanding a beautiful view of the 
Seine. Opposite each window is a door for the sake of sym¬ 
metry ; only the last towards the Seine is intended for use, and 
gives access to the Salon Carre. The panels of these doors 
are charged with the attributes of the Arts and Sciences, Navi¬ 
gation, etc. ; on the walls opposite the windows are seen in 
Gobelins tapestry, the portraits of Sarrazin, G. Pilon, M. 
Anguier, Duperac, Lebrun, J. Goujon, Lemercier, Romanelli, 
Lendtre, and J. Bullant; between the windows, those of P. 
Lescot, Ducerceau, Poussin, Coysevox, Coustou, Ph. Delorme, 
Mignard, &c., artists who at various periods contri¬ 
buted to the construction and decoration of the Louvre. Be¬ 
tween the central windows we see medallions with portraits 
of Philippe Auguste and Francis I. The windows are 
crowned with other allegorical figures, arabesques and 
escutcheons. The walls are profusely gilt, and the vaulted 
ceiling rests upon a frieze adorned with L’s and fleurs de lys. 
It represents, at its northern extremity, the Triumph of the 
Earth, by Guichard, after the designs left by Lebrun; and 
at the other, nearest the Seine, the Triumph of the Waters 
or of Amphitrite, by Lebrun himself. The other paintings 
of the vault are, beginning from the latter, as follows: 
Aurora on her car, in an octagonal compartment, painted by 
Lebrun, and re-painted by Muller ; Castor, or the Morning-Star, 
in an oval compartment, painted in 1781 by Renou ; adjoining 
it, are two lateral compartments representing Autumn, by 
Taraval (17G9) and Summer, by Durameau (1774). The great 
central compartment contains the Triumph of Apollo, by Eu¬ 
gene Delacroix. Next comes Evening, situated between Spring, 
by Callet, and Winter, by Lagrenee junior. The last octa¬ 
gonal compartment represents Night. These compartments 
are interspersed with appropriate emblems and arabesques; 
the lower part of the ceiling is adorned with medallions re¬ 
presenting the months, and with stuccos of the Muses, the signs 
of the Zodiac, flowers, etc., executed under the direction of 
Lebrun, by Girirdon, Regnauldin, and the brothers Marsy. 
This splendid gallery now contains a rare and costly collection 
of enamels of Bernard de Palissy, vases of agate, jasper, and 
other precious stones, curious articles of Japanese manufacture. 


164 FIRST WALK. 

jewels, &c., arranged in three magnificent glass stands on ta¬ 
bles, beautifully carved, of the time of Louis XIV., as the escut¬ 
cheons with fleurs de lys, and the motto, Necpluribus inipar , 
denote. There are other stands along the wall and opposite. 

A door at the further end opens into the 

Salon Carre , the ceiling of which is white and gold, with 
caryatides, and genii representing the Arts ; the names of the 
most celebrated artists are inscribed on the frieze. The choicest 
specimens of the treasures for which the Louvre is so cele¬ 
brated, are placed here, among which are the Feast of Cana, 
and Mary anointing the feet of Jesus, both by Paolo Veronese, 
Charles I of England by Vandyck, and the Conception by 
Murillo, bought in 1852, at the sale of Marshal Soult’s gal¬ 
lery, for the sum of 615,300 fr. 

Entering a door to our right, we shall perceive, in a room 
recently opened, eight valuable frescoes by Luini (1500), 
brought over from Milan. The ceiling, painted by Meynier, 
represents Knowledge conquering Time. The vestibule of 
this room, a remnant of the magnificent staircase, by 
Fontaine, which existed here before 1852, has a ceiling, by 
Meynier, representing Minerva teaching the Arts. This 
vestibule opens upon the stairs B. Returning to the Salon 
Carre, we find to our right 

The Musee des Tableaux des Ecoles Italiennes, Flamandes 
et Fran^aises occupying the Long Gallery and a series of 
adjoining rooms. The Gallery was formerly 1,322 feet in 
length, and 42 in width ; but owing to the improvements in 
progress, it has provisionally lost two-thirds of its length. The 
walls are encrusted with red marble to the height of about 
three feet, the rest of their surface is entirely covered with 
pictures, comprising three schools, viz. : the French school, 
700 ; the Flemish and German, 620 ; the Italian and Spanish, 
585. The further end is exclusively occupied by the 
Galerie de Rubens, a precious collection of some of the most 
admired works of that great artist. These master-pieces 
have now undergone a thorough restoration, and been 
re-canvassed. None but the works of deceased masters are 
admitted into this gallery, which was chiefly formed by Na¬ 
poleon, and enriched with the master-pieces of Europe ; the 
greater part were returned in 1815, but even now this gallery 
is one of the finest in the world. For the convenience of the 
public, lists of the painters’ names whose works are nearest 
at hand, and indications of their subjects, are affixed to the 
walls at proper intervals. 

From the Galerie de Rubens a door to the right opens into 
the 


MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVKE. 165 

Ecole Frangaise, beginning with two rooms entirely filled 
with paintings by Lesueur. The fourth room contains the 
celebrated sea-ports of Joseph Vernet. A passage leads hence 
to a large hall devoted to the master-pieces of the French 
schools of the 18th and 19th centuries. Adjoining this is the 

Sa/on Denor., a splendid and lofty hall containing four 
large pictures by Lebrun. It is surmounted by a dome, gor¬ 
geously gilt and decorated with sculpture and paintings by 
Muller, the four principal of which represent Louis IX., 
Francis I., Louis XIV., and Napoleon I., each surrounded by 
the eminent men of his time, and giving directions for the 
execution of public works. The initials of these four Princes 
may be seen on gilt scrolls in the corners. A gallery resting 
on a rich cornice runs all round this hall, just beneath the 
large arched windows by which it is lit, and opposite which 
two large folding-doors give access to the 

Salle cles Etats, not always open to the public. It is a 
hall 42 metres long, 21 wide, and 16 high. It is lighted by 
three rows of windows, the upper range being circular. A 
gallery, supported on gilt columns, runs round the greater 
part of it. On State occasions (see p. 157.) the Throne is 
placed at the entrance to the gallery, which is then closed. 
There is a gallery for the Empress, the Imperial Princesses, 
and their suites. The ceiling, painted by Muller, represents 
Civilisation, enlightening the world. At her sides there are 
Justice and Force, the Genius of Law, and Philosophy. 
France is seated on a throne between Abundance and Gene¬ 
rosity. Behind stands Prudence, holding the national flag, 
protected by Vigilance and Patriotism. Below genii present 
Algeria to France, and History writes the national annals. 
Further on there are genii presenting to the world Literature, 
Science, the Arts, and Religion ; near the latter are Joan of 
Arc, (personifying female heroism), Devotion, Charity, Misery 
and Sorrow finding consolation in prayer, Tradition receiving 
the Scriptures, and Sacred Music. The left side is devoted to 
Labour, Agriculture, Arts, Science, Poetry, Meditation, Manu¬ 
factures, Commerce. Below is War, and at the other end 
there are symbols of Peace. Over the entrance opposite the 
gallery is an equestrian statue of Charlemagne, before which 
a procession passes, and over the other is one of Napoleon I., 
with groups of veterans, young men, and the Arts, depositing 
wreaths of palm at his feet, etc. 

From the Salon Denon we enter another hall, in which the 
series of the French School is continued. This leads to the 
landing-place C, where a door to our right admits us to the 

Petite Salle Italienne, containing choice works of many of 


166 FIRST WALK. 

the first masters of Italy. We may now either re-enter tho 
Long Gallery by this room, or return to the landing-place C, 
and thence by the stairs A to the Salle Ronde, in order to 
view the second series of museums, commencing with the 

Salle des Bijoux, in which we find another and richer sec¬ 
tion of the most valuable portion of the Campana collection, 
viz., the Etruscan, Roman, and Greek jewelry, a considerable 
proportion of which has been already noticed in speaking of 
the Salle des Bronzes. Some specimens are of admirable exe¬ 
cution. Ceiling, by Mauzaisse : Time pointing to the ruins 
caused by his progress. Next to this is the 

Salle des Sept Cheminees (1). The ceiling is beautifully 
decorated with gilt arabesques on a white ground, and colossal 
genii in stucco; ten medallions contain the busts of Gros, 
David, Girodet, Gerard, Guerin, Percier, Prudhon, Chaudet, Ge- 
ricault,and Granet, whose masterpieces are in this room. 

Crossing it diagonally, we enter the 

Musee Napoleon III., containing a portionof the Campana 
collection, and antiquities brought over from Syria by 
HI. Ernest Renan, from Macedonia and Thessaly by M. Henzey, 
and from the North of Asia Minor by M. Perrault. The de¬ 
scription of these rooms is briefly as follows •—1st room : 
antique pottery from Judea, Cyprus, and Rhodes ; ceiling • 
the presentation of Poussin by Cardinal Richelieu to Louis 
XIII., by Alaux ; 2d : Etruscan and Roman pottery ; ceiling : 
the battle of Ivry, by Steuben ; 3d : painted vases of the 
primitive period • ceiling : Puget presenting his group of Milo 
of Croton, now in the Musee de la Sculpture Moderne , to 
Louis XIV. at Versailles, by Deveria ; 4th : tombs, sepulchral 
lamps, urns, Sec., in the centre the “ Lydian tomb in terra¬ 
cotta ; ceiling : Francis I., accompanied by his court, receiving 
the paintings brought by Primaticcio from Italy, by Fragonard ; 
5th : Coiinthian vases found at Caeri in Etruria; ceiling : an 
allegorical representation of the revival of the arts in France, 
and eight historical subjects from the time of Charles VIII. to 
the death of Henry II., by Heim ; 6th ; Vases found in Magna 
Greecia; ceiling : Francis I. knighted by Bayard, by Fra.- 
gonard; 7th : the same series continued ; ceiling : Charlemagne 
receiving the Bible from Alcuin, by Sclmetz ; 8th : red vases 
with painted subjects, Greek and Etruscan ; ceiling : Louis XII, 
proclaimed father of the people at the states-general of Toursj 
in i506, by Drolling; 9th: glass, mosaics, frescoes from, 

(I) It was here Henry IV. died, after being stabbed by Ra- 
vaillac. At that, time it was composed of several rooms, one 
of which is marked in the old plans of the palgce with the words s' 
phambre ou mourut Henry IV, , . : 


MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 107 

Pompeii sent by the late Francis I. of Naples; ceiling: the expo" 
ciition to Egypt under the orders of Napoleon, by L. Coignet(l). 

A suite parallel to this commences with the 

Musee Egypt ien , most of the antiquities in which are 
the fruits of the French researches in Egypt. For articles 
of domestic life, and for all minuter details, this is perhaps the 
most complete collection in existence. Valuable Egyptian 
vases, human mummies and those of animals, some MSS. in 
fine preservation, and palettes on which the colours still re- 
ma n, will he remarked. Seeds of various kinds, and even 
fragments of bread, found in the tombs of Egypt, are collected 
here. Glass cases occupy the embrasures of the windows, con¬ 
taining minute articles. Cloth of various kinds, brooms, musical 
instruments, walking-sticks, a crutch shod with iron, shoes, 
toilet-cases, mirrors, needles, and elegant spoons, all of the 
earlier periods of Egypt, find a place in this most interesting 
museum. Here are also the weights and measures of the 
Phileterian system, mentioned in the Scriptures, and some cu¬ 
rious Egyptian loadstones, nicely balanced, so as to answer 
the purpose of a magnetic needle. The ceiling of the first room 
represents the Genius of France encouraging the arts, and tak¬ 
ing Greece under her protection, by Gros. In that of the 2d, 
is Pope Julius II. giving orders for the building of St. Peter’s 
to Bramante, Michael Angelo, and Raphael, by Horace Vcrnet. 
The ceiling of the 3d represents Egypt saved by Joseph, by 
Abel de Pujol. That of the 4th represents Study and Genius 
aiding Greece in exploring Egypt, by Picot. Compartments in 
other styles accompany these ceilings. 

La Salle du Irdne is next entered; its magnificent ceiling is 
divided into nine compartments, painted by Gros. Six of 
these represent the busts of Pericles, Augustus, Leo X., Fran¬ 
cis I., Louis XIV., and Charles X., with scrolls, bearing the 
names of the celebrated writers of their age. The centre com¬ 
partment represents Glory supported by Virtue, with scrolls 
bearing the names of celebrated French statesmen, warriors, 
and writers. In the eighth is Truth, assisted by Time, receiv¬ 
ing the protection of Wisdom; in the ninth, Victory holding 
the reins of two fiery steeds ready to draw the chariot of Mars ; 
Peace offers him a bridle, the emblem of moderation. The 
ceiling rests on white marble Corinthian columns, with gilt 
capitals and bases; in the centre of the floor is a fine mosaic 
encircling a pedestal which supports an Egyptian idol in black 
marble. Mummies and Egyptian sarcophagi stand in other 
parts of the room. We now enter the 
( 1 ) On the ground-floor of this side of the court are studios 
not shown to visitors without an order from the Director, | 


168 FIRST WALK. 

Musee Grec et Romain. —Here we have the series of antiqui¬ 
ties found in ancient Etruria and the south of Italy, hut chiefly 
in Greece. The collection occupies four rooms, and is ex¬ 
ceedingly choice. The visitor’s attention will be attracted by the 
unusual size of a great number of the vases, particularly those 
on the marble tables, and to the high state of preservation of 
most of them. The wealth and refinement of Herculaneum 
and Pompeii are represented here, and even most of the utensils 
of domestic life may be seen in these cases. A collection of 
glass vases, another of bronze instruments, and another of 
cameos and gems, will not escape the visitor’s attention. The 
ceilings represent : 1st room, Cybele, the Magna Mater , 
protecting Stabiae, Herculaneum, Pompeii and Retina, from 
the fires of Vesuvius, by Picot; 2d, the nymphs of Parthenope, 
carrying their household gods to the banks of the Seine, under 
the guidance of Minerva, by Meynier; 3d, representsVesuvius 
receiving fire from Jupiter to consume Herculaneum, Pompeii 
and Stabiae, by Heim; 4th, the apotheosis of Homer, by Ingres. 
On the mantel-piece of this room stands the bust of the late 
lamented architect Visconti, who furnished the designs for the 
completion of the Louvre. The last-mentioned room opens 
into the Salle des Sept Cheminees. 

The visitor must now retrace his steps to the Musee Egyptien , 
which leads to a Corinthian staircase at the south-eastern angle of 
the Gallery. Here he will find an entrance opening into the 
celebrated colonnade of Claude Perrault, and obtain an ad¬ 
vantageous view of St.-Germain-1’Auxerrois ( see p. 238). 

Another door on the same side gives access to the 

Musee des Souverains, composed of five rooms, the three 
first of which severally bear the names of Chambre d'Anne 
d’Autriche, Chambre d coucher de Henri IV, and Salon de 
Henri IV. The elaborate carving and gilding of the ceilings 
and wainscoting is remarkable. These rooms all contain 
stands and presses with jewelry and specimens of the old 
French ceramic art, including stained glass in the windows. 
In the first room there is a portrait of Louis XIII., by 
Philippe de Champagne, and a modern one of Anne 
d’Autriche opposite. A splendid vase of Sevres porcelain 
and gilt bronze stands in the centre. The 2d room con¬ 
tains full-length portraits of Henry IV. and Marie de 
Medicis, and, in an alcove where Henry IV. used to sleep, 
there is a statue of that prince in his childhood, by Bosio. 
In the 3d room are the altar and desks of a chapel of the 
Order of the Holy Ghost, with the mantles worn by the 
knights, and other brilliant articles relating to the same. The 
fourth room is called the Salle des Bourbons. A rectangular 


MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 169 

compartment of the ceiling contains the arms of the Bourbons, 
flanked with the initials of Louis XVIII. and Charles X. 
On the coves are medallions with the portraits of those 
princes, and the legends, Trocadero and Alger , under each 
respectively; the walls display fleurs de lys on a blue 
ground. In the centre of this room we perceive, under glass 
cases, the rich saddles and saddle-cloths used at the corona¬ 
tions of Louis XYI. and Charles X., and in the presses around, 
marked with the names of the kings whose reigns are repre¬ 
sented here by some object of interest, we lind the arm-chair 
of King Dagobert, full suits of armour worn by Charles IX., 
Henry II., (1) Henry III., Henry IV., Francis II., Louis XIII., 
and Louis XIV. ; a splendid casket, presented to Anne 
d’Autriche by Richelieu ; and the baptismal font used at the 
baptism of St. Louis, Philip Augustus, and the Comte de Paris. 
It is a silver basin, covered with handsome chasings. There are 
also many other objects of great interest here, such as the sceptre 
of Charlemagne, a chandelier and mirror presented to Marie 
de Medicis by the Republic of Venice, both studded with 
cameos and precious stones ; a copy of the crown worn by 
Louis XVI. at his coronation ; his sword (without a hilt); a 
shoe worn by Marie Antoinette ; the prayer-book of Charle¬ 
magne, dated 780 ; his sword and spurs; the marriage sword 
of Henry IV., and other arms of historical interest. A beautiful 
cabinet, which belonged to Marie Antoinette, stands in the 
left corner ; and a large casket, adorned with pastoral minia¬ 
tures on white velvet, and bearing the cyphers of Louis XVI. 
and Marie Antoinette, is to be seen in the adjoining 
press. In a corner opposite is the sedan-chair of Louis 
XV. ; near the windows are the desks of Louis XVIII. 
and Louis Philippe, the latter bearing marks of the fury 
of the invaders of the Tuileries in 1848. Several articles 
here displayed formed part of Prince Soltikoff’s collection. 
—The fifth room, called the Salle de I’Empereur, displays 
on its ceiling the name of Napoleon, and numerous emblems 
of glory, the arts and sciences, &c. The walls are studded 
with bees on a red ground. In this room we see a silver 
statue of Napoleon I., the size of life, by Rochet. He is 
represented as a pupil of the School of Brienne. Among the 
other articles in this room are the full-dress clothes worn 
by him on state occasions; his uniform which he wore at 

(i) That to the left is the one in which he was killed in 
1559 . The visor of the helmet being raised for air, (as the 
day was hot and the exercise of the tournament fatiguing,) 
the tilting spear of the Count de Montgommeri accidently hit 
the king’s eye and entered his brain. 


170 FIRST WALK. 

Marengo; his sword of First Consul, his horse’s bridle-bit, the 
hat he wore in the campaign of 1814, and the small round hat 
which he wore at St. Helena, as well as the pocket-handker¬ 
chief which he used when on his death-bed; the Austrian uni¬ 
form of the Duke de Reichstadt; a locket containing the hair of 
Napoleon and of his son, and the flag kissed by Napoleon 
when he hid adieu at Fontainebleau, and which had since then 
remained in the possession of General Petit. A small chalk 
sketch of Napoleon I. at the age of 16, signed “Cournoni,” 

(17 85) will be seen near the entrance. 

From this suite we enter three rooms called the 

Musee de la Colonnade, where the paintings which formed 
part of the Campana collection have now been arranged, con¬ 
stituting the third section of the Musee Napoleon III. They 
arc 303 in number, and comprise several works of the earlier 
painters, as well as some masterpieces of the more modern 
Italian schools. 

Arriving at the north-east staircase, we find to the left a 
series of seven rooms, formerly occupied by the Collection 
Standish, bequeathed in 1838 to Louis Philippe by F. H. 
Standish, Esq., of Duxbury Hall, Lancashire, but sold by 
auction in 1850, together with one called the Galerie 
Espagnolc, in order to cover the liabilities of the dethroned 
King. Subsequently these rooms were devoted to en¬ 
gravings, those especially the plates of which are the property 
of the Louvre, from which, by the sale of copies, it derives 
a considerable income. These rooms are now chiefly filled 
with the curious and interesting 

Collection Sauvageot , thus called after a gentleman of that 
name, a distinguished antiquarian, who left it by will to the 
Louvre in 1856. The whole collection is valued at a million 
of francs, exclusively of many articles which have been 
added to it. The antechamber contains various statues and 
groups executed in terra-cotta after the manner of Luca della 
Robbia ; in the first room of the suite we find Italian crockery 
of the same period and school, viz., plates, dishes, 6cc., 
adorned with painted figures. This scries is continued in the 
second room. In the third we find specimens of Bernard 
Palissy’s earthenware. In this the various subjects and de- i 
vices arc in relief. The fourth contains valuable bronzes, 
such as statuettes, embossed dishes, cups, &c., besides two 
bronze bas-reliefs in compartments, representing the Italian 
campaigns of 1515 and 1544. In the fifth we see specimens 
of Venetian glass, flasks, cups, beakers, See., and a mosaic 
by Fasolo, representing the Lion of Venice. The sixth 
room is devoted to carved wood, such as delicate trinkets, 









MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 171 

medallions, &c., of exquisite workmanship ; and the seventh 
chiefly contains carved ivory, including statuettes, dyptics, 
furniture, See., together with an altar-screen, all of ivory, 
minutely carved in 09 compartments, representing subjects 
taken from the New Testament. 

With the eighth room, which contains chalk drawings by 
various celebrated masters, commences the 

Musee des Dessins, one of the most valuable and extensive 
collections of works of this kind in existence, consisting of 14 
rooms, and comprising 3G,000 specimens of the great mas¬ 
ters of all schools, of inestimable value to the professional 
student, as well as to the connoisseur. Many precious speci¬ 
mens of the pencils of the first masters of the Italian, Flemish, 
French and Spanish schools are here exhibited. The visitor 
will find choice subjects due to the talent of Poussin, 
lesueur, Claude Lorraine, Teniers, Rubens, Van Dyck, Albert 
Durer, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Holbein, &c. ; beautiful miniature 
portraits of historical interest, and other portraits, groups, and 
views executed in pencil, Indian ink, tk c. In the last five 
rooms the drawings are mostly arranged under glazed frames 
on inclined desks. These rooms were formerly those reserved 
for state purposes, and under Charles X. were used for the re¬ 
ception of the Chambers before the opening of the legislative 
session. The first of the suite was formerly an antechamber, 
and has no decorations; the second was the Salle des Confe¬ 
rences ; the ceiling, painted by Mauzaisse, represents Divine 
Wisdom giving laws to kings and legislators. The ceiling of 
the third, the Salle da Comite da Contentieux, represents Law 
descending upon earth, by Drolling. The fourth is the Grande 

! Salle da Conseif the ceiling of which, by Blondel, represents 
France receiving the charter from Louis XVIII. It is surrounded 
by eight allegorical and as many historical compartments. The 
fifth room, of the time of Henry II., has a richly decorated 
ceiling: History recording the events of the battle of Bou- 
vines; it is surrounded with allegorical figures, by Blondel. 

I The Musee de la Marine occupies the second floor on the 
northern side, and is approached by a small staircase leading 
from the ante-room of the Collection Sauvageot; it occupies a 
suite of 11 rooms, and contains models of vessels of all classes, 
many equipped and armed. In the 1st room is the model 
of the country around Luxor, where the obelisk of the Place 
de la Concorde formerly stood. This model gives an accurate 
idea of the operation of shipping the obelisk and of the machi¬ 
nery used for the purpose (see p. 179). Another model shows 
the operation of raising the obelisk on its pedestal in Paris. 
Above this, on the wall, is an inscription, placed there by tho 





172 FIRST WALK. 

English residents in France, commemorating the heroic endur¬ 
ance of Lieut. Bellot, of the French navy, who perished in the 
Arctic expedition of 1853 sent in search of Sir J. Franklin. 
Models of Brest, Lorient, Toulon, and Bochefort are in the 2d, 
3d, 8th, and 11th rooms, executed on a large scale and with 
great nicety. In the 2d is the model of the three-decker Valmy , 
executed in ivory and ebony. In the 4th is the model of the 
3-decker YOcean, six metres in length. In the 5th room is the 
bell of Fort St. Jean d’Ulloa, pierced through with cannon- 
shot. In the 6th is an obelisk decorated with the relics of 
the ship of M. de La Perouse, discovered and brought to France 
by an Englishman, Gapt. Dillon ; in a glass press we see a 
letter addressed by La Perouse to one of his friends just before 
his departure from Brest in 17 85 ; there is also the trunk of 
a tree, found at Botany Bay, bearing the epitaph of one of 
La Perouse’s chaplains. In the 7th, on a stand there is the 
model of the Belle-Poule frigate, which brought over the re¬ 
mains of Napoleon I. from St. Llelena in 1840. In the 9th is a 
piece of ordnance, on the revolving principle, with 12 chambers, 
and invented at Joigny in 1837. Here likewise is a large 
model of a steam-engine, with others of fire-arms of every 
calibre. In the 1 oth are geographical globes, sextants, and other , 
scientific instruments used in navigation. The 11th room con- i 
tains a beautiful model of the state galley of Louis XIV.; the 
walls are decorated with the admirable gilt bas-reliefs which 
ornamented the original. Here is also a model of the gor¬ 
geous man-of-war, the Louis XV. From this room we enter the 
Musee Ethnogrophique , consisting of six rooms, the first of 
which contains, besides models of the men-of-war Tage , j 
Rivoli, and Inflexible , a collection of weapons used by the 
nations of Central Africa. In the 2d there are a few models of 
junks, canoes, See., also some Chinese paintings, including a 
few very good caricatures of Europeans, and landscapes 
rather deficient in perspective. The 3d contains a collec¬ 
tion of arms and ornaments used by various nations inhabit¬ 
ing the islands of the South Pacific, and the still compa¬ 
ratively unexplored regions of North America. In the centre 
of the room is a model of the celebrated temple of Jagganatha, 
or Juggernaut, in India. The fourth, fifth, and sixth rooms, 
to the left on entering, are specially devoted to Chinese art and 
manufactures. Here we see a large chapel of carved wood, 
containing a Goddess called Kang, besides other idols, altars, 1 
various obiects of worship, and household utensils. The spe¬ 
cimens of Chinese porcelain are numerous and elegant; there 
are besides a model of a Chinese burial, also boxes, fur-11 
witure, paintings* amulets, coins, carved chessmen, dresses j 






MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 173 

utensils, trinkets, &c., partly brought over by M. de Lagrenee, 
and parlly sent from Canton by Admiral Rigault deGenouilly, 
In a passage to the right of the 3d room is the 
Musee Americain , containing objects of Peruvian and 
Mexican origin, sent by M. Audrand, French Consul in Bolivia. 
It consists of pieces of sculpture, seals, woven stuffs, etc. 

Returning to the first floor by another staircase, and 
passing again through the last five rooms of the Musee des 
Dessins, already visited (p. 171), we reach a landing-place, 
where we shall find the 

Salle des Bronzes, once the Chapel of Henry IV., and now 
adorned with a magnificent pair of gates of wrought iron, 
brought from the Chateau de Maisons. This spacious hall 
now contains a portion of the Collection Campana, purchased 
from the Papal Government, and now arranged in various 
parts of the Louvre, uuder the name of Musee Napoleon III. 
It comprises 11,83 5 articles, of which the metal portion only, 
of Greek and Roman origin, is displayed here, together with 
various Roman antiquities found at Notre-Dame d’Alencon, 
near Brissac (Maine tt Loire). Two lateral presses contain 
metal vessels, chandeliers, statuettes, knives and two¬ 
pronged forks, and swords, helmets and other pieces of armour, 
spear-heads, &c. The presses along the walls contain other 
articles of the same nature, besides an oval bell, a Roman 
steelyard, lamps, See. Colossal busts and statues, mostly of 
bronze, are arranged round the room. But the most inte¬ 
resting is the central stand, containing jewels, diadems, and 
necklaces, chiefly of Etruscan manufacture, though some are 
Greek or Roman. The perfection to which the soldering of 
the precious metals had been brought by the Etruscans has 
attracted the attention of the best goldsmiths of Paris. 

On leaving this, a door to our right gives access to the 
Salle des Seances, a vast saloon of Corinthian architecture, 
with a gallery running all round, and roofed with dulled 
glass. It is sumptuously gilt, and now contains a portion of 
the Musee Napoleon III., consisting of Etruscan bas-reliefs, 
vases, and sarcophagi. Adjoining it, is the 
Salle Henry II., the ceiling of which, richly embossed, is 
painted by Blondel in three compartments. The central one 
represents Jupiter pronouncing judgment on the relative ad¬ 
vantages of the creations of Neptune and Minerva; the other 
two compartments are allegorical of Commerce and War. The 
Musee Napoleon III. is continued here, and we find ourselves 
again in the Salle des Sept Cheminees, whence we may 
return to the grand staircase by the Salle Ronde. 

Passing to the galleries on the ground floor, the first we 




174 FIRST WALK. 

find to our left on re-entering the court, is the Musee de la 
Sculpture Moderne. It is arranged in five halls, and is 
remarkable for many master-pieces of the French school, to 
which are added a few by foreign artists. The room to the 
left, called the Salle Coysevox, contains Marie Adelaide of 
Savoy, as Diana, and a splendid tomb of Cardinal Mazarin. 
In the Salle du Puget, is the celebrated Milo of Croton by that 
artist ; also a marble group representing Perseus delivering 
Andromeda, and a small bronze model of the equestrian statue 
by Girardon, which formerly stood in the Place Vendome ; 
there is also a foot of the statue itself (see p. 17 0.) The Salle 
des Coustou has statues of Louis XV., Maria Lescinska, Queen 
of France, and four bas-reliefs in bronze, by Desjardins. In 
the Salle de Houdon we see Psyche, by Pajou; Diana in 
bronze, by Houdon; the bust of Buffon, by Pajou ; and that of 
Madame Dubarry, by the same. The last, the Salle de 
Chaudet, contains Love and Psyche, by Canova ; and the co¬ 
lossal bust of Napoleon I. by Bartolini. 

Further on, in the north-eastern portion, is the 

Galerie Assyrienne, consisting of six rooms, and a ves¬ 
tibule on the northern ground floor, and containing valuable 
relics of Assyrian sculpture brought to light in the vicinity 
of Nineveh, through the exertions of M. Botta, French consul 
in Syria. Colossal winged bulls flank the doors of the second 
room. The bas-reliefs, which occupy the lateral walls, are 
interesting as showing the costumes, weapons, and vessels 
of the remotest ages, the manner in which they were laden, 
and their clumsy oars. The cuneiform inscriptions, taken 
from the palaces of Sardanapalus, Nimrod, Taimanassac, 
and Jehu, the small seals engraved on agate and jasper, 
are worthy of attention. The third room contains Greek 
haut-reliefs, a vase discovered at Pergama, and the great Ama- 
thusian vase, 10 metres in circumference, sent over from 
Cyprus in 1866. The vestibule which follows is filled with 
plaster-casts from the Musee des Platres. The 6th rorni con¬ 
tains sarcophagi, &c., from Nineveh, and the 6th, valuable 
specimens of Greek sculpture from the Parthenon, Delos, &c. 

In the south-eastern portion is the 

Galerie Egyptienne, a lofty hall filled with colossal Egyp¬ 
tian statues, sphynxes, bas-reliefs, paintings, and other curiosi¬ 
ties. The freshness of the colours of the paintings, which the 
lapse of upwards of thirty centuries has been unable to efface, 
is really surprising. The visitor will particularly remark the 
bas-reliefs which adorned the pedestal of the obelisk of Luxor. 
The adjoining vestibule, which is filled with specimens of 
Egyptian pottery, a figure of the sacred bull, &c., communi- 


MUSEUMS OF THE LOUVRE. 175 

cates to the left with a passage containing a number of Roman 
antiquities, such as busts, inscriptions &c., found in Algeria. 
Ascending the staircase, which leads to the Musee des Souve - 
rains, we perceive on the walls five large copies of Egyptian 
paintings. 

In the southern wing is the 

Musee de la Sculpture de la Renaissance, composed of 6 
rooms. In the first, besides the casts of the tombs of Charles 
and Mary de Bourgogne, the visitor will remark the cast of a 
stupendous chimney-piece of the Salle du Senat at Bruges, of 
the most elaborate workmanship. The 2d room, called the 
Salle Jean Goujon, contains specimens of sculpture by that 
artist; among which is his masterpiece, Diana de Poitiers (the 
favourite of Henry II., who, at the age of 47, captivated the 
youthful king) represented as Diana Venatrix. We also see a fi no 
group of four angels carved in wood by Germain Pilon. Next 
comes, to the left, the Salle des Anguier, where the most con¬ 
spicuous object is the pyramidal monument to Henri de Longue- 
ville. Here are also bronze statues of Louis XIII., Anne 
d’Autriche, and Louis XIV. in his boyhood, by Guillain, a 
bronze statue of Fame, by Berthelot, and Francheville’s master¬ 
piece, the four bronze figures, representing as many conquered 
nations, that formerly adorned the equestrian statue of Henri 
IV., on the Pont Neuf. There are also some fragments of the 
statue itself, which was of colossal dimensions (see p. 297.) 
Returning to the 2d room, we enter the Salle de Jean de Douai, 
of Giovanni di Bologna, containing the group of Mercury and 
Psyche in bronze, by Adrien de Vries, and the bronze bas- 
relief of Diana with the stag by Benvenuto Cellini, which 
adorned the Chateau d’Anet (see p. 306.) Here is also a pri¬ 
soner, in marble by Michel Angelo. The Salle de Michel 
Colombe contains a beautiful alto-relievo of white marble, by 
that artist, representing St. George killing the dragon. There 
is also a statue of Louis XII. by Demugiano. 

All these museums are open to the public on all days, 
Mondays excepted, from 10 to 4 ; to artists daily, Sundays 
and Mondays excepted, from 8 a.m. to G p.m. For permis¬ 
sion to study in the museums, apply by letter to “ Monsieur 
le Directeur des Musees, au Louvre .” 

The visitor, on leaving, should enter the 

Rue de Rivoli, that vast artery connecting the utmost 
limits of the Tuileries with the rue St. Antoine, a distance 
of 3146 metres, (2 miles.) It runs through part of the 
ground once occupied by the orchard of the convent of the 
Feuillants, and by the celebrated Manege, or riding-school, 
where a temporary building, erected in 1790, was succes- 



J76 FIRST WALK. 

fcively occupied by the Constituent and Legislative Assem- 
blies, the Convention, and the Council of Five Hundred. 
This street was begun in 1802, and continued with a uniform 
system of arcades to the northern pavilion of the Tuileries, 
thus opening the noble garden of the palace to public view on 
the northern side. The menacing prospect of serious danger to 
the State roused the Government of 1848 to provide work for 
the labouring classes at any cost, and it resolved to continue 
the Rue de Rivoli. During the reign of the present Emperor, 
the rue de Rivoli has been prolonged beyond the Hotel de 
Ville. The arcades extend as far as the rue du Louvre, 
turning also into the Place du Palais Royal. This street 
has cost a sum of 150 millions of francs, and caused the 
demolition of upwards of 1,000 houses. As was the case 
with the old rue de Rivoli, the houses built with arcades in 
the new one, have been exempted from taxes for thirty years. 

The principal pavilion of the New Louvre, facing the 
Palais Royal, contains the 

RiBLioniEQUE du Louvre —the Emperor’s private library, 
to visit which, apply by letter to Son Excellence le Grand 
Marechal du Palais, aux Tuileries . The stranger, on as¬ 
cending a beautifully sculptured double-branched staircase, 
will enter a suite consisting of two saloons connected by a 
spacious gallery, with six recesses on each side, fitted up 
with bookcases. The ceiling of the first saloon, painted by 
Brune, represents the Muses ; that of the second, by Abel de 
Pujol, the Arts and Sciences. Here is a collection of books 
bequeathed to the Emperor by Mr. Mottley, an American. 
Students may obtain permanent entrance here. 

Continuing westwards along the Rue de Rivoli, we find 
opposite the Rue Richelieu (1), the offices of the Ministere de 
la Maison de VEmpereur, and at No. 192, near the Passage 
Delorme , a house occupied in 184 8 by Sobrier and his ad¬ 
herents until the 15th of May, when they were forcibly dis¬ 
banded. At No. 224, are the library and news-rooms of Messrs. 
Galignani and Co., where the daily English newspaper, Galig - 
nani's Messenger, so well known throughout the Continent, is 
published (see Directory). Most of the houses in this street are 
public hotels, among which is Meurice’s, No. 228, an estab¬ 
lishment almost as well known as the rue de Rivoli itself. 

The rue de Castiglione leads to the octagonal 

Place Vendome— of which the Rue de la Paix (2) forms 

(1) At the corner of the rue de Richelieu and the rue St. 
Honors some soldiers of the Garde Royale made a desperate re¬ 
sistance in the revolution of 18 30, and fell to a man. 

( 2 ) On the site of the rue de la Paix, originally rue Napoleon, 


COLONNE VENDflME. 1*7 

the only other outlet on the opposite side. The Place Ven¬ 
dome, originally called Place des Conquttes, and then Place 
Louis le Grand , was begun by Mansard, in 1099, Louis XIV. 
having, at the suggestion of Louvois, purchased the hotel of 
the Due de Vendome, an illegitimate son of Henry IV. and Ga- 
brielle d’Estrees, which stood on this site. The buildings, ori¬ 
ginally intended for the Royal Library, the Mint, 8tc., were 
subsequently continued by the City of Paris, and finished by 
the financier Law. They are uniformly Cocinthian : the larger 
sides of the octagon measure 450 feet, the smaller 420. In 
the middle formerly stood a colossal equestrian statue of Louis 
XIV., in bronze, by Girardin and Keller, erected in 1G69, but 
demolished on August 10 , 1792; the bronze figures that orna¬ 
mented its base are to be seen in the Musee de la Renaissance . 
The mutilated pedestal was replaced in 1806 by the 

Colonne Vendome, erected by Napoleon, to comme¬ 
morate the success of his arms in the German campaign of 1805. 
This column, 135 feet high, by 12 in diameter, is an imitation 
of the pillar of Trajan at Rome, on a scale larger by one 
twelfth. The pedestal, 21 feet in height, and 20 in breadth, 
and the shaft are of stone, covered with bronze bas-reliefs, 
cast out of 1,200 pieces of Russian and Austrian cannon, 
weighing 360,000lbs., and representing the victories of the 
French army. The bas-reliefs of the pedestal represent the 
uniforms and weapons of the conquered troops. Four eagles, 
weighing 500lbs. each, stand at the corners of the pedestal, 
supporting wreaths of oak. The door, of massive bronze, is 
decorated with crowns of oak, surmounted by an eagle ; above 
is a bas-relief, representing two figures of Fame, supporting a 
tablet, with the following inscription : 

Neapolio Imp. Aug. Monumentum belli Germanici, Anno 

MDCCCV. Trimestri spatio, ductu suo, profligati, ex sere capto, 

Glorise exercitus maximi dicavit. 

The spiral bas-reliefs of the shaft display, in order, the prin¬ 
cipal actions, from the departure of the troops from Roulogne 
to the battle of Austerlitz. The figures, 2,000 in number, are 
three feet high; the length of the scroll 840 feet; a spiral thread 
divides the lines, and bears the names of the actions repre¬ 
sented. The designs, by Rergeret, were executed by 31 
sculptors, one of whom was Mme. Charpentier. Above the 
capital is a gallery, approached by a winding staircase of 176 
steps. 

stood the large Convent of the Capucines, the greater portion of 
which was destroyed in 1789. In 1806 the street was formed 
through the body of the convent. 


\% 



178 FIRST WALK. 

Upon the capital is this inscription : 

Monument elev6 a la gloire de la grande armtfe, par Napoleon 
le Grand, commence le xxv aout 1806, termini le xv aofit 1 8 1 o, 
sous la direction de D. Y. Denon, MM. J. B. Lepere et L. Gon- 
doin, architectes. 

The capital is surmounted by an acroterium, on which we see 
a bronze statue, by Dumont, of Napoleon I. in a Roman cos¬ 
tume and wearing the Imperial mantle. It is an exact copy 
of the first statue by Chaudet which stood here, and which 
was melted down in 1814 to form part of the horse of Henry 
IV., now on the Pont Neuf. The figure of Victory in the Em¬ 
peror’s right hand is the same which was held by the original 
statue (1). The column stands upon a plinth of polished granite, 
surrounded by an iron railing. The total cost was 1,500,000 
francs. The view of Paris and the environs from the gallery 
is most interesting. The keeper at the door furnishes the 
visitor with a lantern, for which a small fee is given. The 
hours are from 10 to 6 in summer, and 1 to 4 in winter. 

The Fontaine des Capucins, at the corner of the rue Casti- 
glione and rue St. Ilonore, was erected in 1G71, and rebuilt in 
1718. It bears the following inscription by Santeuil : 

Tot loca sacra inter, pura est quae labilur unda; 

Hanc non impuro, quisquis es, ore bibas. 

Six convents formerly stood here. Further west is the 
Eglise de l’Assomption, 3G9, rue St. Ilonore.—This church, 
formerly belonging to a convent of Dames de I’Assomption, 
now converted into barracks, was built by Errard in igtg. 
It is circular, and surmounted by a dome 62 feet in diameter. 
The style is Corinthian; the cupola is painted in fresco by 
Lafosse. It contains the Birth of the Virgin, by Suvee(l779), 
and an Assumption, by Blondel. The church is a chapel of 
ease to the church of the Madeleine. 

The rue de Luxembourg leads to the Hotel des Finances, 
a vast building comprised between the rues de Rivoli, de Casti- 
glione, du Mont Thabor, and de Luxembourg. 

Further on, at the corner of the rue St. Florentin, is a large 
and handsome mansion, formerly the residence of Prince Tal¬ 
leyrand, and purchased, after his death, by Baron Rothschild. 
Before the revolution of 17 89 it was the hotel of the Duchess de 
l’lnfantado. Alexanderl., Emperor of Russia, occupied itin 1814. 

(i) During the Restoration a llcur-de-lys and a Hag-staff oc¬ 
cupied the place of the statue ; but on the 28th of July, 1833 a 
statue by Seurre, representing Napoleon I. in his well-known 
military costume, was solemnly inaugurated in the presence of 
Louis Philippe. This statue, i t feet high, now stands on a pe¬ 
destal in the centre-f the Rond-Pointof Courbevoie. (Seep. 507 } 


PLACE PE LA CONCORDE. 


179> 

SECOITD 1TA. LE. 

This walk comprises the 16th arrondissement, with a fraction* 
of the 8 th. The visitor will commence it by the 

Place de la Concorde, or de Louis XV., which was, till the 
reign of that King, a waste, irregular space. After the peace- 
of Aix-la-Chapelle, the Municipality obtained leave of Louis XV. 
to form a square here, adorned with a statue in his honour.. 
The works, conducted after the designs of Gabriel, were nott 
finished until 177 2. The square was octagonal, bounded by 
balustraded fosses. The two tine marble groups, by Coustoo, 
jun., representing restive horses checked by grooms, which 
stand at the entrance of the Champs Elysees, were brought 
hither from Marly in 1790, like their counterparts opposite, 
by Goysevox, at the western entrance of the garden of the 
Tuileries. In the middle- stood a bronze equestrian statue 
of Louis XV., in a Roman costume, by Bouchardon. At the 
four angles of the pedestal were marble statues of Peace,. 
Prudence, Justice, and Strength (1). The statue was destroyed 
by order of the Legislative Assembly on the 11th of August 
1792, and melted down into cannon and republican two-sous 
pieces, while a large plaster figure of Liberty was placed on the 
pedestal, in front of which was erected the guillotine, and the 
place was called Place de la Revolution. By a decree of 1800 
it assumed the name of Place de la Concorde; both figure 
and pedestal were removed, and a model of a column was 
erected in wood covered with painted canvas. Figures 
representing the Departments surrounded the base. The com¬ 
pletion of this was prevented by the wars of the Empire. 
In 1814 the name of “ Place Louis XV.” was restored. Louis 
XVIII. issued an ordonnance for re-erecting a statue of Louis 

XV. Charles X. fixed the Rond Point of the Champs Elysees 
as the proper place for this statue, intending to erect that of 
Louis XVI. on the Place Louis XV., to be called Place Louis 

XVI. The events of 1830 caused it to remain in a neglected 
state till 1836, when the works for its completion were begun. 
In 1852, the fosses were filled up, and the carriage-ways wi¬ 
dened. All the spaces for foot-passengers are flagged with 

(i) The luxury and dissolute habits of the court at that time- 
gave rise to the following pasquinade : 

O la belle statue! 6 le beau piedestal! 

Les vertus sent a pied, lc vice cst a cheval. 

By a singular coincidence of dates, the idea of erecting this* 
royal statue on the future Place de la Concorde, was conceived 
on the 24 th of February 1 748, and the statue itself reached tire 
square, after 4 days’ hard labour, on the 24th of February 7G3-. 
It was inaugurated on the 2oth of June following. 


180 SECOND WALK* 

bitumen. The square is enclosed with balustrades, terminating 
in the basements of eight colossal statues of the chief provincial 
cities, viz. Lille and Strasburg, by Pradier; Bordeaux and 
Nantes, by Calhouet; Marseilles and Brest, by Cortot; Rouen 
and Lyons, by Petitot. Twenty rostral columns, bearing lamps, 
are placed along the balustrades, and 120 ornamental lamp-posts 
border the carriage-ways. In the centre of the square stands the 

Obelisk of Luxor. —This magnificent relic of ancient Egypt 
is one of two obelisks that stood in front of the great temple of 
Thebes, the modern Luxor, where they were erected, 1550 
years before Christ, by Rhamses III., of the 18th Egyptian dy¬ 
nasty, better known in history as the great Sesostris. These 
two monoliths were given by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, 
to the French government, in consideration of the advantages 
conferred by France on Egypt in aiding to form the arsenal and 
navalestablishment of Alexandria, but only one was removed (1). 
This obelisk is formed of the finest red syenite, and covered 
on each face with tliree lines of hieroglyphic inscriptions com¬ 
memorative of Sesostris; the middle lines being the most deeply 
cut and most carefully finished. The number of characters is 
1,600. A flaw which it had when first cut from the quarry 
extends to one-third of its height, but is not perceptible from 
the ground. The Egyptians remedied this by inserting two 
wooden mortises under the inner surfaces. The apex has been 
left in the rough state in which it was when found in Egypt. 
The height of this monolith is 72 ft. 3 inches; its greatest 
width at the base 7 ft. 6 inches; at the top, 5 ft. 4 inches; 
Its weight 500,000 pounds. (2) The pedestal on which it 
stands is a single block of grey granite, from the quarries of 
Laber, in Britanny, weighing 240,000 pounds, and 15 feet by 
9 at the bottom and 8 at the top (3). On the northern face 
of the pedestal are engraven gilt sections of the machinery 
used at Luxor in removing the monolith ; on the southern are 
those used in Paris. On the eastern side is this inscription : 

(OThe operation of transporting this monolith to France, which 
it took three years (from 1 83i to 1 833) to complete, will be best 
understood by inspecting the excellent model of the country 
around Luxor in the Musee de la Marine at the Louvre, which 
gives an exact idea of the road made to the Nile, the vessel con¬ 
structed at Toulon for the purpose, &c. (see p. 172 ). The erec¬ 
tion of llie obelisk on the Place de la Concorde and the machinery 
used v Oct. 25th, 1836) is fully represented by another model 
close by. A box of cedar, containing medals struck in comme¬ 
moration of the occasion, was placed under the obelisk. 

( 2 ) The obelisk of the Vatican at Rome weighs 900,000 lb. 

(3) For a full description of this monument, see Notice Histo- 
riqti, Descriptive, et Archcologique sur I’Obelisque de Luxor, 


PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 181 

Ludovicus Philippus I., Francorum Rex, ut antiquissimum ar- 
tis iEgyptiacae opus, idemque recentis gloriae ad Nilum armis 
part* insigne monumentum Franciae ab ipsa ASgypto donatum 
posteritate prorogaret, obeliscum Die xxv Aug. A. MDCCCXXXII. 
Thebis Hecatompylis avectum naviq. ad id constructa intra meiv» 
ses xiii. in Gallia perductum erigendum curavit. D. xxv. Octob» 
A. MDCCCXXXYI. Anno reg. seplimo. 

The inscription on the western side is as follows : 

En presence du Roi Louis-Philippe I er , cet obMisque, trans¬ 
ports de Louqsor en France, a ete dresse sur ce pedestal par 
M. Lebas, ingenieur, aux applaudissements d’un peuple im¬ 
mense, le xxv octobre MDCCCXXXYI. 

The entire cost of removal and erection was about two mil¬ 
lions of francs. On either side of this venerable monument are 

The two Fountains of the Place de la Concorde, dedicated, 
one to Maritime, the other to Fluvial, Navigation. They consist 
each of a circular basin, 50 feet in diameter, out of which rise 
two other smaller basins, the upper and smaller one being in¬ 
verted; their diameters are 12 and 20 feet respectively. The 
middle basin is supported by a cylindrical shaft, ornamented 
with foliage, standing on a hexagonal base. Six figures nine 
feet in height are seated around it, with their feet on the prows 
of vessels, and separated from each other by spouting dol¬ 
phins. Six larger dolphins, held by as many Tritons and 
Nereids, sporting in the large and highly ornamented basin 
below, spout water into the second one. The shaft of the in¬ 
verted basin is surrounded by three upright figures of winged 
children, standing on inverted shells, with swans by their sides 
spouting water. In the Maritime fountain, the figures sup¬ 
porting the second basin represent the Ocean and Mediterranean, 
by Debay; the Genii of the Common and the Pearl Fisheries, 
by Desbceufs; with those of the Coral and Shell Fisheries, by 
Valois. The figures of the upper basin, representing the Genii 
of Astronomy, Commerce, and Maritime Navigation, are by 
Brian. In the Fluvial fountain, the lower figures are the 
Rhine and the Rhone, by Jechter; the Genii of Flowers and 
Fruits, by Lanno; the Vintage and the Harvest, by Husson. 
The upper figures, by Feucheres, are the Genii of Agriculture, 
Manufactures, and Fluvial Navigation. The Tritons and Ne¬ 
reids are by Moine, Elschouet, and Parfait. The lower basins 
are of polished stone, and the remainder of each fountain is of 
iron, bronzed by galvanism. The water of these fountains 
comes from the Plaine de Monceaux (see p. 203.) 

The Place de la Concorde forms a beautiful link between the 
Tuileries and the Champs Elysees. On the north are two 
palaces, between which the rue Royale opens a view of th# 


182 SECOND WALK. 

Madeleine; to the south are the Pont de la Concorde, and 
the Legislative Palace, behind which is seen towering the 
dome of the Invalides. The two edifices on the north side 
are each 288 feet in length ; and the rue Roy ale, which 
separates them, is 90 feet wide. In each, the upper story, 
flanked with projecting pavilions, is adorned with 12 Corin¬ 
thian columns resting on a rusticated arcaded basement. These 
structures were erected by Potain, after the designs of Gabriel. 
"The building nearest to the garden of the Tuileries was formerly 
occupied as the Garde-Meuble de laCouroime. Under Napoleon, 
iit was appropriated to the residence and offices of the Minister 
-of Marine (see p. 59), who still inhabits it. Tbe building on 
the other side of the rue Royale is inhabited by private 
families. The events that have rendered the Place de la Con¬ 
corde famous are so identified with it, that we shall mention 
the principal ones in chronological order :— 


May 30, 1770 —During the rejoicings in honour of the marriage of Louis 
■XVI., a fatal accident was caused, after a discharge of fireworks, by the peo¬ 
ple taking a panic, in consequence of carriages driving among the crowd, 
and rushing towards the rue Royale, where the ground had been broken up 
for building 5 1200 persons were trampled to death, and about 2000 others 
seriously injured—an ominous commencement of nuptial bonds, to be cru¬ 
elly severed by the guillotine ! 

July 12,1789.—V collision between Prince de Lambesc’s regiment and the 
people became the signal for the destruction of the Bastille. 

Jan. 21, 1793.—Louis xvi. suffered dealh on this Place, (i) where the fol¬ 
lowing persons also subsequently perished by the guillotine: July 17, Char¬ 
lotte Cordayj Oct, 2,Brissot and 29 of his colleagues’ Oct. 16 , Marie Antoi¬ 
nette, consort of Louis XVI • Nov. 14, Louis Philippe Joseph Egalite, Duke of 
Orleans; March 2i, 1794, the Hebertists, Maratisls, and Orleanisls; April 8 , 
the Dantonisis, including Danlon, Camille Desmoulins, etc.* April is, the 
Atheisls, composed of Chaumetlc, Anacharsis Clootz, the wives of Camille 
Desmoulins, of Hebert, etc.; May 12, Elisabeth Marie Helene of France, sister 
of Louis XVI.: July 28. Robespierre and his brother, Dumas, St. Just, and 
Coulhon. members of the Committee of Public Safety, with several others; 
July 29, seventy members of the Commune de Paris; July 30, twelve other 
members. From Jan. 21, 1793, to May 3, 1795, more than 2800 persons were 
-executed here. 

Appal 10 . 1814 —The Russians, Prussians, and Austrians were reviewed 
and Te Deum was sung at an altar on this Place. 

Feb. 23, l 848.—The first disturbances that ushered in the memorable re¬ 
volution of that year took place here. 

Feb. 24, l 848.—Flight of Louis Philippe and his family by the western en¬ 
trance of the Tuileries Garden. 

Nov. 4 , i 848.—The Constitution of the Republic w r as solemnly proclaimed 
Ihere, in the presence of the Constituent Assembly. 

The Champs Elysees were formerly covered with small 
detached houses and gardens, meadows, and arable land. In 
1616, the queen mother, Marie de Medicis, caused three alleys 
of trees to be planted, closed at the extremities by iron gates. 
This promenade, intended exclusively for that princess and her 
court, assumed the name of Coars la Heine, which it still re¬ 
tains. It extends along the banks of the Seine, from which it 


0) The scaffold for the execution of Louis XVI. was erected midwav between 

hntvS r ?i 0f th ? l )lac V' ui the horses of Marly: that for Marie Antoinette, 
between the centre and the gale of the Tuileries. 


CHAMPS ELYSEES. 183 

is separated by the high road leading to Versailles. On the 
other side it was divided by ditches from a plain, with which 
a communication was formed by a small stone bridge. In 
1070, this plain, which extended to the village du Roulc, was 
by order of Colbert planted with trees, interspersed with grass 
plots. The new promenade was first called le Grand Cours , 
and soon after Avenue des Champs Elysees. Madame de Pom¬ 
padour, having become proprietor of the hotel now called 
the Palais de l’Elysec Napoleon, caused Colbert’s plantation 
to be cut down ; but after her death, in 17 04, the ground was 
replanted, several alleys formed, and restaurants and cafes 
erected. From 1777 to 17 80, the Champs Elysees were the fash¬ 
ionable promenade. A sequestered avenue in the neighbourhood 
was called Allee des Veuves, from its being filled in the afternoon 
with carriages of rich widows in mourning, who, being by 
custom excluded from the public walks, used to congregate 
here to relieve their sorrow. In 1814, a Cossack bivouac was 
established in the Champs Elysees; and, in 1815, the English 
encamped there. In 1818, the walks of the Champs Elysees 
were improved, and young trees planted to replace those de¬ 
stroyed during the occupation. At this time an open space 
called the Carre Marigny was cleared, affording a fine view of 
the Hotel des Invalides. This spot is now occupied by the 

Palais de l’Industrie.— -This palace was built in 1852-55 
by a company for the purpose of imitating the noble example 
set by England in 1851, when the first Universal Exhibition of 
all nations was held ; and also to provide a permanent build¬ 
ing for the quinquennial Exhibitions of the National Manufac¬ 
tures of France (1). It has since been purchased by govern¬ 
ment, and is used for exhibitions and agricultural shows. The 
French Jockey Club has the use of it for five years, for the 
exhibition of trained horses. Stables have been fitted up here 
for 500 horses, and the prizes to be awarded amount to 
00,000 fr. The Imperial Commission for the Great Exhibition 
of 1807 had its offices here (2). The architect was M. Viel. 

(l) The first Exhibition of the kind occurred in Paris on the 
Champ de Mars in 1 798. It lasted only a week, and only no 
exhibitors availed themselves of the opportunity. Another was 
held in isoi, and boasted 220 exhibitors; in 1802 there were 
540 . The fourth exhibition did not take place until 1 806 , when 
there were 1122 exhibitors. They were then suspended until 1 8 1 9, 
and others were held in 182 3 and 1 827. From 1 834 they be¬ 
came quinquennial, their duration being fixed at two months. 

(2} This palace was exclusively devoted 1o the works of living 
artists of all nations. It was used, with some additional build¬ 
ings, for the Great Exhibition of 1855, where England was re¬ 
presented by 2,600 exhibitors. 


184 SECOND WALK. 

Exterior of the Palace. —The plan of the building is a vast 
rectangle, with two projecting central and four corner pavi¬ 
lions. The central pavilion facing the Avenue des Champs Ely- 
sees contains the principal entrance, a lofty arch of forty-five 
feet span, and measuring sixty feet from the ground to the key¬ 
stone. It is flanked with coupled Corinthian columns, above 
which rises an attic surmounted by a magnificent group, by 
Robert, representing France in the act of awarding laurels to 
Art and Manufacture. On either side of this group are genii 
supporting escutcheons charged with the imperial arms and 
initials. The frieze below, sculptured in relief by Desbceufs, 
represents the Arts and Manufactures bringing their productions 
to the exhibition ; under the cornice of the entablature are the 
words : A 1’Industrie et aux Arts. Two figures of Fame, by 
M. Dieboldt, adorn the spandrils of the arch. A propylseum 
under the arch contains three doors, giving access to the inte¬ 
rior, and surmounted by an arched window, decorated with a 
group, in alto-relievo, by Vilain, representing Commerce, Agri¬ 
culture, Manufacture, and Art, over which the imperial eagle 
spreads out its wings. This principal entrance is flanked on 
either side by two tiers of large arched windows, which are 
continued all round the building, numbering 598 in all. The 
spandrils of the upper tier are adorned with escutcheons bear¬ 
ing the names of various towns on bars traversant; those of 
the lower with medallions displaying the initials of the Empe¬ 
ror and Empress, or portraits of eminent men. On the frieze 
which intervenes between the tiers we read the names of vari¬ 
ous celebrated men. Fronting the principal facade are two 
elegant fountains, and the ground towards the Seine is laid 
out in pleasant walks and grass-plots. 

Interior. —Except the outer walls, the main building, 
simple in design, is entirely constructed of iron and roofed 
with glass. A central rectangular nave, 35 metres in height , with 
a surface of 192 metres in length and 4 8 in breadth, is sur¬ 
rounded by three aisles of an aggregate breadth of 30 metres, 
and formed by four rows of iron columns, 288 in number, sup¬ 
porting a spacious gallery 30 metres wide, transmitting light to 
the ground-floor through rectangular skylights. This gallery, 
to which a splendid three-branched double-staircase in the 
main central pavilion, and five other elegant staircases in the 
corner and southern pavilions, give access, has 216 columns, 
supporting the arched roofs both of the nave and aisles. The 
central roof terminates in two vertical segments, containing 
two stained glass paintings of indifferent execution, represent¬ 
ing France convening all Nations to the Exhibition, and 
Equity presiding over the Increase of Exchange , 


CHAMPS ELYSEES. 185 

Facing the western extremity of this palace a building has 
been erected by the city for the exhibition of panoramic views. 
It covers a space of 1,7 50 square metres; the canvas now 
exhibited, on which episodes of the Italian war are exe¬ 
cuted, is 1,680 metres in length. 

The Avenue des Champs Elysees, with its foot-pavements in 
bitumen, 12 feet wide, intersects the Champs Elysees ; its 
length is a mile and a quarter. Bisecting the Avenue, is the 
Rond Point, a circular space, surrounded by six basins embel¬ 
lished with shrubs and flowers, from which the rues Montaigne 
and Matignon branch out to the north, and the Allees d’Antin 
and des Veuves (now called Avenue Montaigne) to the south, 
intersecting the Cours la Reine. The Avenue de Marigny, 
nearly opposite to the Palais deVIndustrie, leads to theElysee 
Napoleon (see p. 196.) 

By far the most animated part of the Champs Elysees is the 
Avenue des Champs Elysees, which is the favourite walk of 
the gay Parisians. On Sundays and holidays in particular 
the shopkeeper and workman may be seen here jostling the 
lion of the boulevards, while aristocratic velvets and cashmere 
shawls meet in close contact with humble merinos and coarse 
tartans. Under the groves are toy and gingerbread stalls, 
jeux de bagues, and other attractions for the rising generation; 
jugglers and itinerant tumblers attract a willing and ever- 
changing crowd of spectators, while Punch squeaks his secular 
jokes to his delighted juvenile audience. On sunny winter- 
days, or cool summer-evenings, numerous parties of all classes 
are seen, enjoying the lively spectacle before them, seated 
on iron chairs hired for 3 or 4 sous, or on the wooden benches 
placed at intervals on the sides of the avenue, while elegant 
carriages roll in procession along the road. Handsome coffee¬ 
houses, scattered among the trees on either side, attract the 
loiterer by their cheerful lights, varied refreshments, and vocal 
and instrumental music. In the northern grove is the Cirque 
de rimperatrice, devoted to feats of horsemanship; and facing 
it, the Folies Marigny, a small theatre for vaudevilles, pan¬ 
tomimes, etc. The former only open in summer. There are 
several elegant fountains, some surrounded with flower-beds, 
under each of the groves. The effect of the double line of lamps, 
along the carriage-road, after dark is splendid. The Jar- 
din Mabille, in the Avenue Montaigne, and the Chateau des 
Fleurs, (1) near the Arc de l’Etoile, are somewhat like the 
Crcmorne Gardens. Beyond the Rond Point there is the 

(l) It was right opposite to this place, in the Avenue, that 
an odious attempt on the life of the present Emperor took 
place (April 28 th, 1 855.) His Majesty was passing on horseback, 


SECOND WALK. 


186 

splendid mansion of Count Lehon. The public fetes are 
held in the Champs Elysees ; (1) and here also takes place 
the celebrated annual Promenade de Longchamp, on the Wed¬ 
nesday, Thursday, and Friday of Passion Week, extending 
into the Bois de Boulogne. The carriages, which on these 
days are much more numerous, proceed in line up one side 
of the Grande Allee, and down the other. (2) 

The Avenue d’Antin leads to the Pont des Invalides. 
In the Cours la Heine to the right, we see a house displaying 
decorations by Jean Goujon from a seat which Francis I. 
built at Moret, near Fontainebleau, in 1527, for his sister Mar¬ 
garet. It bears the following inscription : 

Qui scit frenare linguam, scnsumque domare, 

Fortior esi illo qui frangit viribus urbes. 

Inst. 1528, et rest. 1826. 

The frieze over the ground floor is adorned with bacchanalian 
bas-reliefs, and with 7 medallions bearing the portraits of 
Louis XII., Anne de Bretagne, Francis II., Marguerite de Na¬ 
varre, Ilenri II., Diane de Poitiers, and Francis 1. Numerous 

when the assassin Pianori, alias Liverani, approached, as if to 
present a petition, and, taking off bis hat, drew a double-bar¬ 
relled pistol from his bosom and discharged it at the Emperor. 
Eye-witnesses state that His Majesty, without displaying the 
slightest emotion, immediately turned his horse towards the 
assassin, who was in the act of making his escape, and rode 
after him, when Pianori was seized, while drawing another pis¬ 
tol from his pocket, by a Corsican police-officer, named Alcs- 
sandri, and after a struggle, during which the captor had to in¬ 
flict a wound upon him with a poniard, was at length secured 
by the aid of other people who had hastened to the spot. 

(1) The City clears 50,000 fr. a-year from the rents paid for 
the places of amusement and refreshment. The owners of the 
chairs let to the public pay 12,000 fr. a-year. 

(2) In the Bois de Boulogne, an abbey, called Abbaye de Long- 
champ, was founded in 1261 , by Isabella of France, sister of St. 
Louis, of which little notice was taken till the middle of the 
eighteenth century, when a melodious choir of nuns attracted 
the attention of amateurs. The church of the abbey was fre¬ 
quented, and in Passion Week it became the fashion for the 
haut ton to attend it in slate. As the sums collected were 
very considerable, and might be still further augmented, the 
principal singers of the Opera were invited to assist in chanting 
the lamentations and Tenebrce. This attraction however gra¬ 
dually passed away, the church of Longchamp was' deserted, 
but the Parisian nobility still flocked to the Bois de Boulogne.’ 
The early scenes of the revolution of 17 89 suspended for a while 
this annual pageant, until after the isth Brumaire, when the 
promenade of Longchamp was resumed, 



PALAIS POMPEIEN. 187 

escutcheons adorn the other parts. Close to this is an elegant 
hotel, belonging toMrae. Alboni, the celebrated singer. (1) 

The next object of interest we meet is the 

Pont de l’Alma, finished in 1856 at a cost of 1,200,000 
francs. It has three stone arches, and elegant balustrades 
Its piers are adorned with four statues, representing a zouave, 
a soldier of the line, an artilleryman, and a chasseur ; the 
two former by Dieboldt, and the latter by Arnaud. An 
enormous syphon here connects the sewers of the Left Bank 
with those of the Right. 

Proceeding a few steps into the Avenue de Montaigne oppo¬ 
site, we see, at No. 20, Prince SoltikofFs mansion, in the 
taste of the middle ages, and at No. 18 the 

Palais Pompeien. —This small palace was built by Prince 
Napoleon in the style of the house of Diomedes, at Pompeii, 
after the designs of M. Normand, but is now the property of 
the Count de Quinsonas. The principal entrance is under a 
portico of composite pilasters, with its frieze displaying 
the initials of the Prince. The narrow windows above 
denote the place of the cjyneceum. On the floor of the 
portico is the figure of a dog, with the motto Cave Canem! 
On entering the vestibule we see the Goddess Pantheea, 
painted on a panel to the right, and the Goddess Hygaeia to 
the left, under the form of a serpent. The lateral walls are 
painted in compartments representing the seasons, interspersed 
with birds, animals, etc., all borrowed from the antique 
paintings of Pompeii. The atrium is rectangular; its sides 
being parallel to those of a central basin of white marble, 
the impluvium of the ancients. At the four corners of 
this basin four composite columns support a rich enta¬ 
blature running all round, and bordering a terrace above, 
thus forming the compluvium. Several busts, copies from 
the antique, here supply the place of the Majorum Species , or 
effigies of the ancestors, among the ancients. The walls are 
covered with frescoes, the subjects of which are borrowed from 
Hesiod’s Theogonia, and are distributed in six compartments be¬ 
sides the friezes. They representthe Revolt of the Titans, Nemesis, 
and the Fates; Phoebus ascending into the heavens on a car drawn 
by four horses; the Triumph of Neptune and Amphritrite ; 
/Eneas carrying his father Anchises ; the triumphs of Bacchus 
and Ceres; Venus rising from the sea ; Minerva issuing from 
the head of Jupiter ; Prometheus creating man ; Venus and 

(I) A railway for omnibuses drawn by horses, and carrying 
50 passengers, at a small charge, according to dislance, extends 
along the Cours la Peine, from the Place dc la Concorde to the 
Bois de Boulogne, St. Cloud and Versailles. 


188 SECOND WALK* 

Cupid uniting Paris and Helen. All these paintings, as well as 
those of the vestibule, are by M. Cornu. A door to the right 
leads to the dining-room, ornamented in the Pompeian style; 
the door opposite, to the library; and that in front, to the 
drawing-room, elegantly painted in imitation of rosso antico. 
From this a glass-door opens into the Jardin deliver, an ele¬ 
gant glazed room, communicating with the garden. A door 
to the right opens into a boudoir. Adjoining was Princess 
Clotilda’s bed-room. Next follows a Turkish bath-room, 
preceded by a toilet-room, with Arabic inscriptions. On the 
opposite side of the Jardin d'hiver was the Prince’s study, 
now arranged as a reading-room; next follows the Salle de 
gymnastique, with a bath-room adjoining, with a large 
basin for swimming in winter, and other apartments formerly 
inhabited by the Prince. 

Continuing along the Quai de Billy, we see at No. 4 the 

Pompe a feu de Ciiaillot, for supplying the lakes of the 
Bois de Boulogne and various fountains with Seine water. 
Erected in 1778, by Messrs. Perier, it now possesses a gi¬ 
gantic reservoir having a surface of 6,000 square metres, and 
& capacity of 2 5,000 cubic metres; above which rise two other 
basins resting on pillars, of a capacity of 1,200 cubic metres. 

At Nos. 32-3 6, are the Subsistances Militaires, a general 
bakehouse and storehouse of provisions for the garrison. The 
daily ration of bread to each soldier is iy 2 lb. Further on is the 

Pont de JEna. —This bridge, begun in 1806, after the de¬ 
signs of M. Dillon, and under the direction of M. Lamande, 
was completed in 1813. It stands opposite the Ecole Mili- 
taire, and forms a communication between the Quai de Billy 
and the Champ de Mars (see p. 333). It consists of five ellip¬ 
tical arches, and is 460 feet between the abutments. (1) It has a 
cornice, imitated from the temple of Mars at Borne, and wreaths 
of laurel and oak, encircling the imperial eagle, adorn the 
piers. At the extremities of the parapets are 4 colossal groups, 
representing a Greek, a Roman, a Gaul, and an Arab, each 
checking a spirited horse, executed respectively by MM. De- 
vaulx, Daumas, Preault, and the late M. Feucheres. 

An elevated plateau, on the hill side, opposite the Pont de 
Jena, called the Trocadero, once the garden of a convent, was 
the intended site of a marble palace for the King of Rome. It 
has now been partially levelled and intersected by boulevards. 

The visitor may here ascend the hill and turn to the right 

(l) This bridge, named after the famous battle, was 
threatened with destruction in 1 8 1 4. By intercession of the 
Dube of Wellington it was spared, and called Pont des Invalidcs . 
Since 1830 it has again resumed its original name. 


PASSY AND AUTEUIL. 189 

into the rue des Batailles. But if he be a determined pedes* 
trian, he may enjoy a delightful walk by visiting 

Passy, a charming village now annexed to Paris, and re¬ 
markable for its salubrious air, extensive views and delight¬ 
ful villas. A few steps along the Quay will bring him to No. 
32, where a ferruginous spring, of some note, rises in a 
garden. A large quantity of this water is bottled for sale. 
The lane close by leads into the rue Basse, where Franklin re¬ 
sided in 1788, at No. 40 ; a continuation of this street has 
received his name. At Passy the famous Abbe Baynal died 
in 1796 ; Piccini, the rival of Gluck, in 1803 ; and Bellini, the 
composer, in 1834. Among the elegant villas here we may 
mention those of Lamartine, Rossini, and Mme. Grisi. 

Continuing westward, the stranger will find Boulain - 
villiers, a village merged into Passy. Here is the 

Maison d'Arret de la Garde Nalionale, jocosely called the 
H6tel des Haricots, a corruption of H6tel Darricau, the site 
of the old prison having formerly belonged to the General of 
that name. Punishments (for neglect or breach of discipline) 
seldom exceed 48 hours here. Further on we find 

Auteuil, another pretty village annexed to Paris, studded 
with villas like Passy. It was founded in the 7 th century by 
the inhabitants of a village called Nimio, given to the Bishop 
of Le Mans by Clotaire II. It was the favourite retreat of Ra¬ 
cine, La Fontaine, Chapelle, Franklin, llelvetius, Cabanis, 
Condorcet, Count Rumford, and other eminent men. An obe¬ 
lisk on the square before the church commemorates the resi¬ 
dence and death of the Chancellor d’Aguesseau. The church 
itself is an old semi-Gothic pile ; it contains some old stained 
glass and a good sepulchral bas-relief in while marble. Behind 
the church, in the Place St. Genevieve, No. 4, is the Insti¬ 
tution de Ste. Ferine (see p. 118). Moliere composed some 
of his works in the street hard by, which has received his 
name ; and continuing along the Grande Rue, we shall find 
the rue Boileau, where No. 18 was inhabited by the great 
satirist. The railroad round Paris here skirts the fortifica¬ 
tions on a splendid and curious viaduct designed by M. 
de Bassompierre, which will excite admiration It crosses 
the Seine on a bridge of five arches, flanked on both sides 
with a carriage-road and foot-pavement, between which, and 
extending far beyond both banks of the river, there rises a 
series of 226 arches, supporting the railway, and forming a 
length of two kilometres. It merges into the Auteuil line. 

Taking a ticket for Passy, the visitor, on alighting, will see 
the beautiful garden of the Chdteau de la Muette, once Crown 
property, but now belonging to the widow of M. Erard, the 


190 SECOND WALK. 

piano-forte manufacturer. To the right of the Railway- 
station, at No. 15, is the office of the Director of the Public 
Walks, where tickets may be obtained to visit the great 

Horticultural Establishment of the City, at 137, Avenue 
d Eylau. This establishment, covering 44,000 square metres, 
contains 24 conservatories and 3,000 hotbeds, representing a 
glazed surface of 10,000 sq. metres. Here all kinds of orna¬ 
mental plants and trees for the public walks and gardens of 
Paris are reared under the care of 50 workmen. It is well 
worthy of a visit. The new Avenue de VEmpereur here 
crosses the Avenue d'Eylau, where we find the 
• Artesian Well of Passy, commenced in 1855, under the 
direction of M. Kind. Water was found on the 26th of May, 
1861 ; but the work was persevered in until Sept. 24th, when 
the supply at once rose to 5,000,000 gallons in 24 hours ; 
it now yields 3,08o,000 gallons, and feeds the lakes of the 
Bois de Boulogne conjointly with the Pompe de Chaillot. Its 
waters are impregnated with iron and sulphur (see p. 334.) 

The Avenue d’Eylau is skirted by various cheerful villas. 
At a circular space with a fountain in the centre we find the 
Hippodrome for equestrian performances (see p. 472), and a 
small church built in the Lombard style. A number of 
streets branch out from this Rond-point ; by one of these, the 
rue des Bassins for instance, the stranger may descend into the 
rue de Chaillot (1), where at No. 50 he will see the church of 

St. Pierre i>e Chaillot, the oldest part of which is the 
choir, of the 15th century. It has five sides, and its ribs unite 
in a sculptured pendant. It is painted in the Byzantine style; 
the windows are adorned with sacred subjects in modern stained 
glass. The paintings in the aisles are the Flight to Egypt, by 
Vignaud; Peter restoring Tabithato life, by Smith ; the Adora¬ 
tion of the Magi, by Gosse; and St. Peter delivered from prison, 
byDubusc. At the entrance of the choir are two angels in fresco 
by Hesse ; over its arch, the Adoration of God, by Debay. 

The Chapel Marroeuf (Church of England), 10 bis, Avenue 
Marboeuf, opened in 1824, is a chaste specimen of the pointed 
style. The interior consists of a nave, with an oaken gallery 
on iron pillars. The chapel is well attended (see p. 115.) 

The rue Galilee was called in 1848 the rue du Banquet, 
from the ever-memorable banquet prepared in General Thiars’s 
grounds, on Feb. 22, and the prevention of which ushered in 
the revolution of that year. At the intersection of that street 

(1) The village of Chaillot was anciently called Chail, (which 
ancient deeds translate by destructio arborum J and was declared 
a suburb of Paris in 1659, under the name of Faubourg ds laCon- 
ference. The village formed part of the royal domains 


ARC DE TRIOMPHE. 191 

With the Avenue Josephine there is a white marble statue of 
the Empress Josephine, byM. Vital-Dubray. 


THIHD WALK. 

This comprises the eighth arrondisscment, with a fraction of 
the 17th. We may commence it with the Place dr, VEtoile, 
a vast circular space which bids fair to become in course of 
time the most fashionable quarter of Paris. It is partly sur¬ 
rounded by a series of elegant houses, of a uniform design, 
and fronted with gardens, to be continued all round. Behind 
these houses runs a circular street, concentric with the 
Place, with houses of more modest pretensions. From the 
Place twelve magnificent avenues branch out in different di¬ 
rections ; of these the principal are the Avenue des Champa 
Ely sees, already described, the Avenue de la Grande Annie 
which continues it, the Avenue d'Eylau mentioned in the 
Second Walk, and the Avenue de V Imp iratr ice, leading to 
the Bois de Boulogne (see p. 4 80). The others bear the 
names of Avenues du Roi de Rome, de Jina, de VAlma, Jo¬ 
sephine, etc. In the centre of this magnificent spot rises the 
Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile. —The idea of this proud 
monument originated with Napoleon, who decreed its erection 
in 1800, and the first stone was laid on the 15th of August of 
that year M. Chalgrin furnished the designs. (1) After the 
death of Chalgrin in 1811, M. Const continued his plans, but 
in 1814 the works were entirely suspended, until, in 1823, 
after the campaign of the Duke d’Angouleme in Spain, it was 
determined to finish the arch in honour of his victories, and 
Messrs. Huyot and Goust were charged with its completion. 
In 1828, the entablature was finished, but the whole was not 
completed until July, 1836. The total cost was 10,432,800 
francs, or £417,812. The monument consists of a vast 
central arch, 90ft. in height by 45ft. in width, over which 
rises a bold entablature and an attic. There is also a trans¬ 
versal arch, 57ft. high and 25ft. wide ; the total height of the 
structure is 152ft., its breadth and depth are 137ft. and 68ft. 
respectively. The fronts of the building are towards the Champs 
Elysees and Neuilly. Each pier of the principal fronts is orna¬ 
mented with a projecting pedestal, supporting groups of 
figures, in alto-rilievo. The spandrils and frieze are enriched 
with reliefs, and the attic is divided into compartments with 

(i) On the marriage of Napoleon l.with Maria Louisa, and her 
triumphal entry into the capital, there was a model in wood 
and canvas of this arch erected and brilliantly illuminated. 





192 THIRD WALK. 

circular shields, each inscribed with the name of some great 
victory. The internal sides of all the piers are inscribed with 
the names of 96 victories; under the transversal arches with 
the names of generals. The northern pier of the eastern front 
bears a group, by Rude, representing the departure of the 
army in 1792 : the Genius of War summons the nation to 
arms. The dimensions of this and the other groups are in 
total height 36ft., and each figure 18ft. The next group, by 
Cortot, represents the triumph of 1810: Victory crowning 
Napoleon. Fame surmounts the whole, and History records 
his deeds; vanquished towns are at his feet. The groups of 
the western front, both by Etex, represent: 1. the resistance 
of the French nation to the invading armies in 1814 ; a young 
man is seen defending his wife, his children, and his father ; 
a warrior is falling slain from his horse; and the Genius of 
the Future encourages them to action. 2. the peace of 1815 ; 
a warrior is seen sheathing his sword ; another is taming a 
bull for purposes of agriculture, while a mother and children 
are seated at their feet, and Minerva shedding over them her 
protecting influence. (1) The most admired ornaments of 
this arch are the alti-rilievi of the compartments above the 
impost-cornice ; they are chiefly valuable as faithful repre¬ 
sentations of the uniforms of the time. The southern 
compartment of the eastern side represents the surrender 
of Mustapha Pacha at the battle of Aboukir, by M. Seurre, 
sen. The principal figures of these compartments are about 
9ft. high. The northern compartment of the same side 
is filled with a group of the death of General Marceau, by M. 
Lemaire. Above the arch and impost-cornice of the northern side 
of the monument is the battle of Austerlitz, by Jechter. On 
the western front, the northern alto-rilievo is the taking of 
Alexandria, by Chaponniere. The other group is the passage 
of the bridge of Areola, by Feucheres. On the southern side 
of the building is a representation of the battle of Jemmapes, 
by Marocchetti. Behind General Dumouriez is a portrait of 
Louis Philippe, then Due de Chartres. The figures of Fame in 
the spandrils of the main arch on each side are by M. Pradier. 
They are 18ft. in height. The frieze is occupied on the e astern, 
and on half of the northern and southern sides, by the departure 
of the armies: the deputies of the nation, grouped round the 
altar of the country, distribute flags to the troops. There are 
portraits of all the great characters of the epoch 1790-2, in¬ 
cluded in this composition. The corresponding portions of the 
frieze on the other sides of the building represent the return of 
the armies, who offer the fruit of their victories to regener- 
(l) M. Etex was paid 140,000 fr. for the two groups I 


ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L’ETOILE. I 93 

ated France. This long composition is the work of several 
artists—Messrs. Brun, Laitie, Jacquot, Caillouette, Seurre and 
liude. The series of shields, thirty in number, inscribed each 
with a victory, on the attic above the entablature, begins with 
Valmy, and ends with Ligny. The spandrils of the transversal 
arches represent the infantry and cavalry of the French armies 
by Messrs. Bra and Valois respectively; and on their interior 
spandrils are the artillery and the marine, by Messrs. De Bav 
and Seurre. The groups on the other arches represent the 
conquests of the armies of the North, East, West, and South • 
the names of the Generals are placed beneath, numbering alto¬ 
gether 384. Winding staircases in the two eastern”piers 
lead to several halls; the last contains in one of the cross 
vaults the following inscription • — 

Ce monument, comment en 1806, en l’honneur de la Grande. 
Armee, longtemps interrompu, continue en 1323 avec une 

dicace nouvelle, a Ctd achev£ en 18 36. 

qui l’a consacrC a la gloire des Armies Francaises ’ * 

Before 1852, the blank contained these words: “ Par Ip 
Louis Philippe LV’ er01 


From the platform at the top of the arch one of the finest 
views of Paris and its environs may be enjoyed. The total 
number of steps is 27 2. The monument is open till dusk A 
small fee is given by parties ascending to the top. 

From the Arc de l’Etoile, the Avenue de la Grande Armee 
leads to the Neuilly gate. Immediately outside the fortifica¬ 
tions, on the left hand, is the Porte Maillot, one of the prin¬ 
cipal entrances to the Bois de Boulogne (see p. 486), and at 
No. to, in the Route de la Revolte, opposite, is the 

Chapel of St. Ferdinand, the scene of the melancholy 

death of the Duke of Orleans, on 13th July, 1842. ( 1 ) _The 

house in which the Duke expired, with some adjoining property 
being purchased by the crown, Messrs. Lelranc and Fontaine 
architects, erected on its site the present chapel, dedicated to 

(1) A brief notice of this sad event will not be deemed irre¬ 
levant in this place. The Duke left Paris in the forenoon in a 
light open carriage, with a postilion, intending to take leave of 
the royal family at Neuilly, and then to proceed to the camp at 
St. Omer. As he approached the Porte Maillot, the horses took 
fright. The postilion seeming to lose his command over them 
the Duke called out, “ Are you master of your horses?” “ gj r * 

I guide them,” was the reply. After a few minutes the Duke 
again said, “ I am afraid you cannot hold them.” The answer 
was, “ I cannot, Sir.” The Duke then endeavoured to get out 
of the carriage, but, his feet becoming entangled in his cloak 
he was precipitated to the ground, and his head was dread* 
fully fractured. Re was conveyed to the house of M. Lecordier" 

13 





194 THIRD WALK. 

St. Ferdinand, which was begun on August 21, 1842, and 
consecrated on July 11 following, in the presence of the royal 
family, by the Archbishop of Paris, the same who fell in the 
insurrection of June 1848. The building, 50 feet long by 
20 in height, is of stone, surmounted by a cross, and is in 
the Lombard Gothic style, resembling an ancient mausoleum. 
On the high altar is a Descent from the Gross, in marble, by 
Triquetti. On the left is another altar, dedicated to St. Fer¬ 
dinand, and corresponding to it on the right is a marble group 
representing the Prince on his death-bed, and kneeling at 
his head is an angel in fervent supplication, as if imploring 
the divine commiseration on the sufferer. The monogram MO 
reveals that this beautiful “ spirit” was the work of his deceased 
sister, the Princess Marie, who little thought for whose tomb she 
was executing it! The remainder of the group is by Triquetti, 
after a drawing of M. Ary Scheffer. Underneath is a bas-relief 
representing France leaning over a funereal urn, deploring her 
great loss; the French flag is at her feet. This monument stands 
on the spot where the Prince breathed his last. Three circular 
windows corresponding to the sides of the cross represent respec¬ 
tively Faith, Hope, and Charity, in stained glass. The 
remaining 14 pointed windows represent, in stained glass 
also, the patron saints of the different members of the Royal 
family, viz. : in front St. Amelia and St. Ferdinand ; St. Louis 
and St. Philip the Apostle; in the transept to the right St. Helen 
and St. Henry; in that to the left St. Rupert and St. Charles 
Borromeo; in the nave to the right St. Francis of Assise, St. 
Adelaide, and St. Raphael; to the left St. Anthony of Padua, 
St. Rosalie, and St. Clement of Alexandria. Descending a few 
steps behind the altar of the Virgin, the visitor will find himself 
in the sacristy of the chapel. Low oaken presses and a confes¬ 
sional of the simplest construction, a chair and prayer-desk co¬ 
vered with black, and an ivory crucifix, form its only furni¬ 
ture. Opposite the door is a picture of the size of life, by M. 
C. Jacquand, representing the death scene. In the centre is the 
Duke stretched on a bed, his head supported by the physicians; 
his father is kneeling opposite, eyeing him with the stupor of 
grief. The Queen and Princess Clementine are kneeling be¬ 
side the bed, while the Dukes of Aumale and Montpen- 
sier, Marshals Soult and Gerard, and the Cure of Neuilly 

a grocer, where at 10 minutes past 4 o’clock of the same after¬ 
noon he breathed his last, unconscious of the grief that sur¬ 
rounded him, and apparently without pain. The royal family, 
w ! th the exception of the Queen of the Belgians, the Prince do 
Joinville, then at Naples, and the Duchess of Orleans, who was 
at Plombieres, were witnesses of this heart-rending scene. 


CHAPELLE DE ST. FERDINAND. 195 

form an affecting group on the left. The other persons 
present are Generals Atthalin, Gourgaud, de Rumigny, the 
Due Pasquier, M. Martin (du Nord), and M. Guizot. Dr. 
Paquet is supporting the head of the patient. Next to him is 
Dr. Destouches, remarkable for his resemblance to M. Thiers, 
[n front of the Chapel, and separated from it by an open 
court, are four rooms, where the late royal family used to 
meet. Of these, only one is visible now, the others being 
inhabited by the priest entrusted with the service of the 
Chapel. Here are seen a richly embroidered cushion ex¬ 
pressly made for the consecration of the Chapel, and never 
used since; a clock in a black marble case surmounted by an 
urn, marking 10 minutes past four, the time of the Duke’s 
death; and a second clock surmounted by a bronze figure re¬ 
presenting France leaning over a broken column in the attitude 
of mourning; it marks 10 minutes to 12, the hour at which 
the Prince fell. On the column are the initials F. P. 0., and 
the date, July 13, 1842. Here is also a pirogue brought over 
from Brazil by the Due de Joinville, as a present to the Due 
d’Orleans. A hemicycle of cypresses, facing the court, is 
graced with a cedar-tree, brought from Mount Lebanon by 
the Duke of Orleans, then Duke of Chartres, and transplanted 
here by his son, the Count of Paris. Admission daily from 
10 to 4 ; a fee is expected. 

In the adjoining Avenue cles Ternes, at the corner of the 
rue d’Armaille, we find the Eglise St. Ferdinand. The 
facade is in the Lombard style, with a square belfry ending 
in a spire. The interior is Doric, and consists of a nave and 
two aisles. Architect M. Lequeux. 

Further down, a new circular fountain occupies the centre 
of a square formed on the site of the old Barriere. At No. 
157, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, is the 

Chapelle de Beaujon,- —erected in 17 80, by Nicholas Bcau- 
jon, receiver of the finances, who in 1784 founded the 

Hopital Beaujon, No. 208, nearly opposite, for 24 or¬ 
phans of the parish du Roule, 12 boys and 12 girls, endowing 
it with 20,000 livres annually. The Convention converted 
it into an hospital, under the name of Hopital du Roule. 
The council-general of hospitals restored its former name, but 
not its primitive destination. The original building, constructed 
after the designs of Girardin, is 96 feet in length towards the 
street, by 144 in depth, and lias a ground floor, with three 
stories. Strangers may visit it daily from 2 to 4 (see p. 139). 

At No. 21, rue de Berri, is the American Chapel, a tasteful 
Gothic building ; and, returning to the rue du Faubourg St. 
Honore, a few steps will bring him to the church of 




496 THIRD WALK* 

St. Philippe, billlt by Chalgrin in 1784. The front con¬ 
sists of 4 Doric columns crowned by a pediment, adorned with 
a figure of Religion in alto-rilievo. In the interior, 1G4 feet 
long by 7 8 in breadth, 16 Ionic columns separate the nave 
from the aisles, and 6 more enclose the choir, behind which 
is the chapel of the Virgin, painted by Jacquand, in com¬ 
partments (1). The semi-cupola of the choir is adorned with 
a fresco by M. Chasseriau, representing the Descent from the 
Cross. The altar is of white marble, with bas-reliefs, by the 
Abbe Roger, in three compartments, representing the Sacrifice 
of Abraham, Jesus accepting the instruments of the Passion, and 
the Entombment. On the sides are Moses, Aaron, St. Philip, 
and St. James. The Martyrdom of St. James, by Degeorge, 
and Matthew the Evangelist, by Leloir, are in the aisles. 

At No. 24, rue de Courcelles, is the mansion of Princess 
Matilda, lately the property of Queen Christina of Spain. 

Further on, in the semicircular Place Beauveau, is the 
hotel of that name, occupied by the Home-office, and nearly 
opposite, in the rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 55, is the 

Palais de l’£lysee NapolEon. —This hotel, constructed in 
1718, after the designs of Molet, for the Count d’Evreux, was 
afterwards purchased and occupied by Madame de Pompadour, 
mistress of Louis XV. At her death Louis XV. bought it of 
the Marquis de Marigny. In 1773,M. Beaujon, the banker, en¬ 
larged and embellished it, after whose death the Duchess of 
Bourbon purchased and occupied it till 1790. In 1792, it was 
declared national property, and in the following year was used 
as the government printing-office. In 1800 it was sold, and con¬ 
verted into a place of public entertainment. Murat bought 
it in 1804, and resided there until his departure for Naples, 
when it again became the property of the government, and was 
a favourite residence of Napoleon I. In 1814 and 1815 it 
was inhabited by the Emperor of Russia, and by the Duke of 
'Wellington. When Napoleon returned from Elba, he occupied 
it until after the defeat of Waterloo. In 1816, Louis XVIII. 
gave it to the Duke de Berri, on whose assassination it de¬ 
scended to the Duke de Bordeaux, and now again belongs to 
the State. It was the official residence of the present Emperor, 
while President of the French Republic. During the Great 

(1) The subjects are, beginning from the left:—!. The Adora¬ 
tion of the Virgin; 2. Christ disputing in the Temple; 3. the 
Holy Family; 4. the Visit to Elizabeth; 5. the Education of 
Christ; 6. the Death of the Virgin ; 7. Mater Dolorosa ; 8. 
“ Wist ye not that 1 must be about my Father’s business?” 
(Luke ii., 49); 9. the Flight into Egypt; 10 . the Virgin the 
Refuge of Sinners. Semi-cupola: Christ crowning the Virgin. 


ELYSEE NAPOLEON. 19> 

Exhibition of 1867 it was inhabited by the Sultan, by the 
Emperors of Austria and Russia, and by other princes. The 
Porte cTHonneur, or entrance-gate facing the street, is 
flanked by two side-doors, and adorned with eight Ionic 
columns supporting an arch with the Imperial arms. There 
are five courts, the principal ol which, called the Cour 
d’Honneur , leads to the entrance of the palace, adorned 
with a portico of four Doric columns, supporting a Corinthian 
one on the upper story. A broad flight of steps overspread 
by a verandah, gives access to a vestibule containing a statue 
of Apollo, and opening into the suite of apartments on the ground 
floor, commencing with a dining-room 50 feet by 20, orna¬ 
mented with Corinthian columns and pilasters richly gilt. The 
walls of this apartment are painted by Dunouy with landscapes, 
some of the figures of which are by Vernet, and were executed 
for Murat. The views represented are r the Pyramids of Egypt, 
the passing of the Tiber, the Chateau de Benrath, on the Rhine, 
near Dusseldorf, once occupied by Murat (the carriage in the 
foreground contains Murat’s children), and a view of the cha¬ 
teau de Neuilly, at that time also Murat’s property; a female 
figure in the foreground is said to be a good portrait of Mme. 
Murat, the sister of Napoleon. This room gives access to a 
Ball-room of recent erection, in the new wing of the palace, 
towards the Avenue de Marigny. It is of Corinthian archi¬ 
tecture, with a coved ceiling, the corners of which are adorned 
with eagles supporting escutcheons charged with the monogram 
N.E. It has six lofty arched windows looking into the garden, 
and corresponding to them, on the opposite wall, are as many 
mirrors of equal size and form, while another colossal one oc¬ 
cupies the wall opposite to the entrance. Returning to the 
Dining-room, a door to the left leads to the State-apartments. 
The Salle de Reception was used by Napoleon I. as a council- 
chamber. This room is now adorned with portraits of the 
Pope, Victor Emmanuel, the Queens of England and Spain, 
the Emperor of Austria, and the King of Prussia. There 
is also a beautiful mosaic representing the map of France in 
1684 . Adjoining is the Chambre de Napoleon I. This 
was his favourite bed-room, where he last slept in Paris after 
the battle of Waterloo. Next comes the Salle des Souverains, 
formerly the Salon de Travail, where Napoleon I. signed his 
last abdication. Here Her Majesty Queen Victoria partook of 
a splendid collation on the 20th Aug. 1855. It is furnished 
in Louis XV. style with Beauvais tapestry. In a room ad¬ 
joining (1) is a record of the international festival given by the 
Court of Aldermen in 1851. The other rooms are for 
(I) This was the Depot des Cartes Gfographiques of Napoleon 1. 




TI1IKD WALK. 


198 

ihe officers, See., in attendance. Descending a staircase, we 
•enter the subterranean chapel, built by M. Eugene Lacroix, 
architect of the palace, and magnificently adorned with every 
kind of sculpture, pa’nting, and mosaic. From the grand 
vestibule the principal staircase leads to the apartments of the 
upper story, which, under the able direction of M. Lacroix, 
has become a gem of elegance and splendour. In the first 
room M. Gallier has added some of his finest pieces of Italian 
scenery to the landscapes of Houel, a distinguished painter of 
the last century. The adjacent saloons are decorated with rich 
Gobelins tapestry. From the central saloon of this story, three 
arcades afford a view of the charming scenery of the garden, 
which is reflected like a well conceived picture in the large 
mirrors covering the wall opposite. All the panels are richly 
decorated with arabesques and garlands on a gold ground, en¬ 
compassing figures of women and children, symbolising the 
four seasons by M. Gariot. In the next saloon the same 
system of arabesques has been continued, but softened down, 
so that they may harmonize with the tapestry which is to 
occupy the panels. This suite of saloons is terminated by a 
toilet-room, the walls of which are covered by a continuity of 
mirrors, on which M. Chaplin has executed various figures of 
goddesses disguised as shepherdesses. The decorative paintings 
are by M. Godon. The Salon des QuatreSaisons was arranged 
by Mme. Murat, for the reception of her husband after one of his 
campaigns. This was the bed-room of the Empress Maria 
Louisa, and here also was born the sister of the Duke of Bor¬ 
deaux. All these are now the Empress’s apartments, occupied 
in 1867 by the Grand Duke Alexander of Russia. Adjoining 
is a suite of rooms now set apart for the Prince Imperial. His 
sitting-room, bed-chamber, and study are furnished with 
elegant simplicity, with pearl-gray hangings, studded with 
blue flowers. These were the apartments inhabited in 1846 
by the Prince de Salerno, and in 1867 by the Grand Duke 
Wladimir. The southern front of the palace is composed of a 
central pavilion with four Ionic columns on the basement story, 
and as many Corinthian ones on the upper. For permission 
to visit the palace, rarely granted, apply to M. le General 
liolin, aux Tuileries. At *Mo. 5 in the rue d’Aguesseau, is 
The Episcopal Church, for the use of the British embassy 
and residents.—Its style is Gothic ; it consists of a nave, 50 
feet high, and is lighted by stained windows at each end, and 

The other rooms were the Petits Appcirtements , once occupied by 
the Due de Berri. The Emperor Alexander 1. slept here during 
the occupation of the Allies, and Ibrahim Pasha inhabited these 
apartments in 1846, 


PALAIS DE L’lSLYSEE NAPOLEON. 199 

by skylights. The altar is ornamented with a fine painting by 
AnnibalCarracci. This church was built in 1833, at theexpense 
of Bishop Luscombe, then chaplain of the embassy, after a plan 
of his own. It will hold 800 persons (see p. 115). 

At No. 41 ,in the rue du Faubourg St. Honore, is the splendid 
hotel of the Baroness Pontalba. Next to this is 

The British Embassy, No. 39, formerly the Hotel Borghcse, 
the residence of the Princess Pauline, sister of Bonaparte. It 
was purchased by the British government soon after the peace 
in 1814, and with its fine garden forms one of the most noble 
residences of Paris. The British consular office is here. 

No. 11 rue d’Anjou is the mairie of the 8th arrondissement. 
At No. 37, we see the hotel of Messrs. Pereire. It is one of 
the most sumptuous among the private edifices of the capital. 

At No. 1, rue Boissy d’Anglas, is the Hotel de la 
Reyniere, once the residence of the famous M. Grimod, author 
of the Almanack des Gourmands. It was long occupied by the 
Russian and Ottoman embassies; the Duke of Wellington also 
resided here. The Cercle Imperial is now in it (see p. 14.) 

At the western end of the Boulevards stands the church of 
La Madeleine. —This is, since the beginning of the 13th 
century, the fourth church erected on this site, called in former 
times, from its vicinity to a suburban villa of the Bishops of 
Paris, <£ la Villel’Eveque.” The present magnificent structure 
was commenced in 17 64, by Constant dTvry, and continued 
by Couture. The revolution of 1789 suspended the works 
until Napoleon I. directed Vignon to complete it for a Ten pie 
of Glory. In 1815, Louis XVIII. restored it to its origin.nl 
destination, and decreed that it should contain monuments 
to Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Mademoiselle 
Elisabeth. It was finished under Louis Philippe, by M. Huve. 
This edifice, the total cost of which amounted to 13,07 9,000fr. 
stands on an elevated basement 323 feet by 138, and is ap¬ 
proached at each end by a flight of 28 steps, extending 
the whole length of the facade. Its form and propor¬ 
tions are Grecian. A colonnade of 52 Corinthian columns, 
each 49 feet high by 1614 in circumference, surrounds it, 15 
on each side, 14 in the southern portico and 8 in the northern. 
In the walls, there are niches containing statues of saints. (1) 
The whole entablature and the ceiling of the colonnade are 
profusely enriched with elaborate sculpture. The pediment 

(I) St. Philippe on the right, and St. Louis on the left of the en¬ 
trance, both by Nanteuil. In the colonnade on the right; \. the 
Angel Gabriel, by Duret; 2 . St. Bernard, byllusson; 3. Sic. The- 
rese, by Feuch&re ; 4. St. Hilaire, by Huguenin ; 5. Ste. Cecile, by 
Dumont; 6. St, Ireinie, by Gourdel; 7. Ste. Adelaide, by Bosio, 



200 THIRD WALK. 

of the southern front contains an immense alto-rilievo by 
Lemaire, 126 feet in length by 24 in height to the angle (2). 
The northern portico is plain. The bronze doors, designed 
by Triquetti, and cast by Messrs. Richard, Eck, and Du¬ 
rand, are larger than those of the Baptistery of Florence, or 
the Pantheon at Rome ; they measure 33 feet by 16%, and 
display bas-relief illustrations of the ten commandments (3). 

Interior. —On entering the vestibule, Faith, Hope, and Cha¬ 
rity are visible on the soffit of the arch. On the right is the 
chapel for marriages, with the marriage of the Virgin, by 
Pradier. On the left is the baptismal font, with a group by 
Rude, of Christ and St. John at the waters of the Jordan. The 
pulpit and the 12 confessionals along the chapels, richly carved 
in oak and gilt, are decorated in the same taste as tne organ. 
The church itself consists of a vast nave, laterally interrupted by 
four piers on each side, fronted with lofty fluted Corinthian 
columns supporting colossal arches, on which rest three cupolas 
with skylights, and compartments gorgeously gilt; the corners 
supported by figures of the Apostles in alto-rilievo. The walls 
of the church are incrusted with rich marbles. An Ionic 
colonnade, supporting a gallery with a balustrade, runs between 
the piers, and is continued around the choir; it is interrupted 

nephew; 8. St. Francois de Sales, by Molchenet; 9. Ste. H6l£ne, 
by Mercier; 10. St. Martin de Tours, by Grevenich ; 1 1. Ste 
Agathe, by Dantan, jun.; 12 . St. Gr£goire, by TbWrasse ; 13 . Ste. 
Agncts, by Dusseigneur ; 14. St. Raphael, by Dantan, sen. Facing 
the rue Tronchet. 15. St. Luc, by Ramey; 16. St. Jean, by the 
same; 17. St. Mathieu, by Desprez; 18. St. Marc, by Lemaire. 
In the colonnade on the left: 19. Guardian Angel, by Bra; 20 . 
Ste. Marguerite, by Caunois; 21 . St. Jean Chrysostdme, by Jec- 
ther; 22. Ste. Genevieve, by Debay, sen.; 23. St. Gr<5goire le 
Grand, by Maindron; 24. Ste. Jeanne de Valois, by Caillot; 25. 
St. Jerome, by Lanno ; 26. Ste. Christine, by Valcher; 27. St. 
Ferdinand, by Jalay; 28. Ste. Elisabeth, by Calhouette; 29. St. 
Charles Borromee, by Jouffroy ; 30 . Ste Anne, by Desboeufs ; 31. 
St. Denis, by Debay, jun.; 32 . St. Michel, by Raggi. 

( 2 ) In the centre is the figure of Christ, with Magdalen at his 
feet; to his right are the Angel of Mercy, Innocence, Faith, 
Hope, and Charity. In the corner an angel greets the resurrec¬ 
tion of a blessed spirit. On the left the Angel of Vengeance 
repels Hatred, Unchastity, Hypocrisy, and Avarice, and a demon 
precipitates a damned spirit into the abyss. 

(3) Above, in the centre, is Moses commanding obedience to 
the Tables ; on each side are the Lapidation of the Blasphemer, 
and the Prohibition of Idolatry. Next follow, 3d. the Repose of 
God on the Sabbath ; 4th. Joshua punishing the theft of Achan; 
5th. the Curse of Noah ; 6th. Susanna ; 7th. the Death of Abel; 
8th. God reproaching Abimeleck; 9th. Nathan announcing to 
David his Chastisement; 10 th. Elijah reproaching Jezehei. 


THE MADELEINE, 20 * 

under each arch by the pediment of a chapel with Corinthian 
columns. Each chapel contains the marble statue of its patron. (1) 
A marble balustrade encompassing the interior of the church 
separates it from these altars. The tympans of the lateral arches 
contain paintings illustrative of the life of Magdalen (2). The 
pavement is marble of different colours. On the ceiling of the 
choir, which is semicircular, we see the propagation of Chris¬ 
tianity since the death of our Saviour, by Ziegler (3). The walls 
of the choir are ornamented with paintings and arabesques by 
Raverat, on a ground of gold. In the midst, approached by 
marble steps, stands the high altar, richly sculptured, by 
Marocchetti. The principal group represents Magdalen in an 

(1) Ste. Amalie, by Bra; Jesus Christ, by Daret; Ste. Clotilda 
by Barye, on the right: on the left, St. Vincent de Paule, by 
Raggi; the Virgin, by Seurre; St. Augustin, by Etex. 

( 2 ) The first to the right on entering represents the Preaching 
of Christ and Conversion of Magdalen, by Sehnetz ; 2 d. the Cru¬ 
cifixion, by Bouchot; 3d. Magdalen in the Desert, by Abel d© 
Pujol. On the left, 1st. the Supper of Bethany, with Magdalen 
at the feet of Christ, by Couder ; 2 d. the Angel announcing the 
Resurrection, by Coignet; 3d. the Death of Magdalen, by Signol. 

(3) Magdalen is wafted before the throne of Christ, surrounded 
by the Evangelists and Apostles, the Emperor Constantine, and 
several saints. Next come the Crusades, with Urban II., 
Eugenius III., St. Bernard, Peter the Hermit pressing on the ex¬ 
pedition ; then the dukes, counts, and barons of Christendom, 
and an old man beneath, who devotes his three sons to the 
“holy cause.” St. Louis kneels near Magdalen ; then Godefroy 
de Bouillon; Richard Coeur de Lion, Robert of Normandy, a 
Constable de Montmorency; Dandolo, the “blind old Doge;” 
and next is Villehardouin, the historian of the Crusades. The 
struggles of the Greeks to throw off the Mussulman yoke are 
depicted by a Grecian warrior prostrate, and a group of his coun¬ 
trymen pressing around the standard of the cross. On the Sa¬ 
viour’s left are some of the early martyrs. Indistinctly seen 
is the shadowy form of Ahasuerus, the wandering Jew. Below 
are the warriors of Clovis, from whose aspect a Druidess flies in 
dismay. St. Remi baptises Clovis, near whom is Ste. Clotilde, 
Queen of France. Opposite St. Louis is Charlemagne, on whomai 
cardinal confers the insigniaoftheempire; an envoy of the caliph 
Haroun-al-Raschid, attended by a guardian of the holy sepul¬ 
chre, presents him with “ the keys,” and the robe of the Virgin. 
Lower down is Pope Alexander III., who laid the foundation of 
Notre Dame, giving his benediction to Frederick Barbarossa 
at Venice. Otho, Joan of Arc, Raphael, Michael Angelo, and. 
Dante, complete this side. In the centre is the convert Henry 
IV. ; Louis XIII. presenting his crown to, the Virgin; and near 
him Richelieu. Lastly, Napoleon I. receives the imperial crown 
from the hands of Pius VII.; the Bishop of Gonoa and Cardinals 
Caprara and Braacbi unroll the concordat. 







202 THIRD WALK. 

attitude of divine rapture, borne to paradise on the wings of 
angels. On a pedestal at each of the corners in front there kneels 
an archangel in prayer. For these figures, 150,000 fr. were 
paid. Two beautiful children support semicircular lateral stands 
on each side, and below the table of the altar is a bas-relief re¬ 
presenting the feast of Cana, by Moinc. Behind the northern 
portico, and concealed from view, is a peal of fixed hells. The 
roof is constructed of iron and copper. In the undercroft is a 
chapel to St. Francis Xavier, belonging to the fraternity of that 
name. High mass is celebrated at 11 on Sundays and holidays. 

Behind the church there is a well-supplied market, and 
east of the edifice a flower-market is held on Tuesdays and 
Fridays. On the opposite side we see the short hut elegant 
Galerie de la Madeleine, and the starting-point of the 

Boulevard Malesiierbes, —inaugurated by the Emperor on 
the 13th of August, 18 61. It extends from the Place dc la 
Madeleine to the exterior Boulevard de Monceaux, thus opening 
a direct communication with the 17 th arrondissement. It 
reaches in a direct line to the Place Laborde, where two 
branches meet. Before reaching this point, the visitor will 
see, in the rue Roquepine, at No. 4, the new Wesleyan Chapel 
(see p. 115), a Gothic structure in the style of the 15th cen¬ 
tury, and at No. 5, the Eglise de la Trinite (French Cal¬ 
vinists). The rue Lavoisier, on the opposite side of the 
boulevard, leads to the apsis of the 

ChapelleExpiatoire. —This spot was formerly the burial- 
ground of the Madeleine, where Louis XVI. and his Queen were 
obscurely interred in 17 93. The ground was bought by M. 
Descloseaux, and converted into an orchard, in order to pro¬ 
tect those precious remains from desecration ; and he is said to 
have annually sent the Duchess of Angouleme a bouquet 
gathered from the graves of her parents. At the Restoration, 
the Royal ashes were transported with great pomp to St. 
Denis ; the earth that had covered the coffins was preserved ; 
the remains of the other victims, including the Swiss Guards, 
were placed in two large graves, and the present chapel was 
erected by Louis XVIII. It bears the following inscription : 

Le Roi Louis XVIII. a 61ev<5 ce monument pour conserver les 
lieux oil les depouilles mortclles du Roi Louis XVI et. de la 
Reine Marie-Antoinette, transferees le 21 Janvier MDCCCXV. dans 
la sepulture royale de St. Denis, ont repost pendant XXI. ans. 
II a <$te achev6 la deuxieme anmie du r£gne du Roi Charles X., 
Fan de grace MDCCCXXVI. 

This monument now forms the prominent feature of an 
elegant square laid out as a garden. In the outer vestibule 
of the edifice a flight of steps leads to a raised platform, 


CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE. 203 

surrounded by a covered gallery on each side, and by a chapel 
at each end, containing the remains of the old cemetery. Op¬ 
posite stands the larger chapel, of the Doric order, in the form 
of a cross, surmounted by a dome. Within are two statues, of 
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, each supported by an angel; 
on the pedestal of the former his will is inscribed in letters of 
gold on a black marble slab; on that of the latter are extracts 
of the queen’s last letter to Mme Elisabeth. In the vestibule 
is a bas-relief representing the funeral procession to St. Denis. 
The corners are adorned with allegorical bas-reliefs. Beneath 
is a subterranean chapel, where an altar of grey marble is 
erected over the exact spot where Louis XVI. was buried; and 
in a corner, about 5 feet from it, is pointed out the original 
resting-place of the queen. Two clergymen perform mass 
here every day at 9 a.m., and on Sundays at 9 and 10. 
Architects: Percier and Fontaine. A small fee is given. 

At No. 122, rue St. Lazare, is the Versailles, St. Germain, 
Rouen, Havre, and Western railroad terminus. This is a large 
handsome building, extending to the rue de Stockholm. A 
spacious Doric vestibule, 144 feet long by 21 in breadth, 
occupies the whole breadth of the building. Behind it one 
of the largest excavations in or about Paris has been effected 
to obtain additional room for the railway lines. The whole 
Place de l’Europe has been cut through, and replaced by an 
iron bridge of uncommon strength, widened out at its extre¬ 
mities so as to take in at one end the three Rues de Londres, 
de Berlin, and de St. Petersbourg ; and at the other the Rues 
de Constantinople, de Madrid, and de Vienne. This spot, 
with the view it affords of the terminus, is well worth a 
visit. The Rue de la Bienfaisance leads to the church of 

St. Augustin, —Boulevard Malesherbes. The front, which 
is a mixed Byzantine, has three entrances surmounted by a 
large circular window crowned with a gable ; four octagonal 
towers flanking a central dome, rise above the transept. The 
interior consists of a nave and two aisles, decorated with 
mural paintings by MM. Signol, Bezard, Baize, and other 
artists of merit; and with statues and bas-reliefs by MM. 
Jouffroy, Cordier, Perrey, 6cc. These works of art cost 
290,000 fr. Public worship also takes place here in the 
undercroft chapel, accessible both from within and without. 

In the rue de Valois a splendid mansion has been 
erected for the Italian Embassy. It covers a space of 2,000 
square metres, and has cost 2,040,000fr. At the extremity 
of the boulevard, we find the eastern entrance of the 

Parc de Monceaux. —In this park a palace was erected by 
Camiontel in 1778, for the Duke of Orleans. The Convention 



204 THIRD \VALK i 

intended it for various establishments of public utility ; Na¬ 
poleon I. presented it to Cambaceres, who gave it up again to 
the Crown a few years later. In 1314 Louis XVIII. restored 
it to the Duke of Orleans, but in 1852 it returned to the State, 
and is now the property of the city, which opened it to the 
public Aug. 15th, 1861. Upwards of 100,000 rare shrubs 
and flowers gracefully adorn the spacious grass-plats and 
border the gravel-walks by which this beautiful spot is in¬ 
tersected. It is divided by two carriage-roads ; on the out¬ 
skirts of the exterior boulevard we see an elegant rotunda 
flanked by two entrances. Not far from this, there stands a 
mock ruin, consisting of a Corinthian colonnade skirting the 
banks of a miniature lake, called the Naumachie. From this 
the water meanders across the park, forming two pretty islets, 
and further on losing itself in a wild grotto. At one point it 
is spanned by a stone bridge, and here and there we see small 
ruins, broken columns, pyramids, &c. 

Leaving this charming spot by the western entrance, front¬ 
ing the Avenue de la Reine Hortense, where there is a large 
boarding school kept by the Dames du Sacre Coeur, the rue 
de la Croix will take us to the 

Greek Church, inaugurated on the 11th of September, 
1861.—This edifice, constructed at a cost of 1,200,000 fr., 
the amount of voluntary contributions by the richest families 
of St. Petersburg, is now one of the ornaments of Paris. 
The first stone was laid March 3, I860, by Count Kisseleff. 
The plan of the edifice is square; it is flanked with 
octagonal turrets at the angles, each topped with a conical 
roof, similar to the larger one, which covers the main 
body. Each of these cones ends in a piroid spire surmounted 
by the Greek double cross with pendant chains. The whole 
is elegantly sculptured and gilt. The porch is approached by 
seven steps, and consists of a small cupola resting on pillars. 
The interior is circular, with semi-circular recesses ; the 
decorations are gorgeous. The paintings on the walls repre¬ 
sent the Adoration of the Shepherds ; the Sermon on the 
Mount; the Last Supper ; and the entry into Jerusalem. In 
the central cupola, Christ imparting his blessing; in the pen- 
dentives, the Four Evangelists. The circular nave is sepa¬ 
rated from the choir by the iconostas, a screen on which the 
painter and decorator appear to have exhausted their talent ; 
it presents, in compartments, the figures of Christ, the Virgin, 
and other holy personages. Behind this is the picture of the 
Saviour radiant with glory. This church is dedicated to the 
Trinity and St. Alexander Newsky. Visible to the public on 
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays from 3 to 7, 


GREEK CHURCH. 


206 


FOURTH IT AL2. 

This comprises parts of the 1st, 2d, and 9tll arrondisse- 
ments. The stranger may commence it by the 

Palais Royal. —On the site of this palace formerly stood, in 
the time of Charles VI., a hotel situated without the city walls; 
this was purchased and demolished by Cardinal de Richelieu’ 
who, in 1 620-3G, built the Palais Cardinal in its place, after 
the designs of Lemercier. It had several courts, and contained 
a theatre for 3000 spectators, magnificent galleries painted by 
Philippe deChampagne, Vouet, &c., a second theatre for 500 per¬ 
sons, and a splendid chapel. Large gardens in the rear co¬ 
vered the rues de Valois, de Montpensier, and de Reaujolais. 
The cardinal contemplated other buildings round the garden, 
but the splendour of his design excited the jealousy of the king. 
Shortly before his decease in 1042, the cardinal presented it to 
Louis XIII. On the death of Richelieu, the king removed to it, 
and from that period it assumed the name of Palais Royal. 

After the death of Louis XIII. in 1643, Anne of Austria, 
with the young king, Louis XIV., made it her abode during 
the turbulent times of the Fronde. In 1092, it was ceded by 
Louis XIV. to Philippe of Orleans, his nephew, as part of bis 
apanage on his marriage with Mile, de Blois. The Regent Duke 
of Orleans, on coming into possession of it, placed in the grand 
gallery the valuable collection of pictures he had purchased in 
various parts, and which, celebrated as the Orleans Gallery, 
was sold during the troubles of the first Revolution, when the 
greater part passed into England. Here, too, had been placed, by 
Louis XIV., the well known collection of medals, and en¬ 
graved gems, subsequently purchased by the Empress of Russia. 
The orgies of which this palace was the scene have been suffi¬ 
ciently commemorated in the memoirs of the regency ; during 
the lifetime of the succeeding duke they were discontinued, but 
were again to a certain extent resumed under his successor, 
better known as “figalite.” In 17 G3, the theatre, built by the 
cardinal, was destroyed by fire; and, on this occasion, the 
entire front of the palace with its two wings was rebuilt, as it 
now stands, after the designs of Moreau. The debts of the duke 
having become so enormous that he once meditated a declara¬ 
tion of insolvency, it was determined, by the advice of the 
brother of Mme. de Genlis, to erect buildings with shops and 
places of amusement, in the garden of the palace, as a means 
of augmenting his revenue. These were begun in 1781, after 
the designs of the architect Louis; the houses and arcades, 
as they now stand, were finished in 1786. The plan succeeded. 




206 FOURTH WALK. 

During the early part of the first Revolution the garden,.then 
replanted, became the place of resort of the most violent politi¬ 
cians of the day ; here the tri-coloured cockade was first adopted, 
and many of the bolder measures of the popular party were 
decided on. After the execution of the duke in 1793, his palace, 
then called Palais Egalite, was confiscated, and soon con¬ 
verted into sale-rooms, ball-rooms, cafes, etc. In 1795, a mi¬ 
litary commission was established in it, and one of its halls 
was afterwards fitted up for the Tribunate, with apartments 
for the president and the two questors. It was then called 
Palais du Tribunat, but re-assumed its original title under 
Napoleon, who never lived there, but assigned a portion of it 
to his brother Lucicn, Prince of Canino, who occupied it some 
time. In 1814, Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans, return¬ 
ed to it, and, with the exception of the interval of the Hundred 
Days, resided in it till 1831, making additions and improve¬ 
ments, and fitting up the whole anew. The Palace was 
taken and devastated by the mob on 24th February, 1848, 
and in that and the following year, it became, under the 
name of Palais National, the place of meeting of some of 
the republican members of the Constituent Assembly (1). In 
1850, 1851, and 1852, it was used for exhibitions. 

Exterior .—The late Prince Jerome, on having this palace 
assigned to him as a residence, fitted it up in the most 
splendid style. It is now inhabited by Prince Napoleon, 
and not visible to strangers. It consists of a court, entered 
from the rue St. Honore, by a Doric arcade and gateway. 
On the northern side is the main body, and, on the eastern 
and western, two wings projecting towards the street with 
pediments sculptured by Pajou, and representing Prudence, 
Liberality, Justice and Power. The central compartment of 
the northern side consists of a ground floor, first floor, and 
attic, surmounted by a segmental pediment ; the other sides of 
the court have only two stories. A regular gradation of the 
Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders is observed throughout. To 
the left of the outer front is a secondary entrance, leading into 

(i) It was a sari spectacle to behold the wreck of this palace 
after the 24fhof Feb., 1 84 8. Whilst the work of devastation was 
in progress some well-meaning persons had written the words 
“ Respeetez les Tableaux ” with charcoal on the walls; but un¬ 
fortunately the salutary advice was completely disregarded. Of 
the numerous fine pictures which adorned the walls of the 
palace scarcely a dozen were saved. The spirit of destruction 
was carried so far on that memorable day, that on Feb. 14 , 
1850, there were Itcenty-fire thousand kilogrammes of broken glass 
and china, collected from the remnants of the furniture of the 
Palais Royal, sold by order of the liquidators of the late Civil List. 


PALAIS ROYAL. . 207 

a by-court enclosed by the Galerie de Nemours. From the 
first court a triple archway leads through the central building 
to the second court. Here the facade, forming the southern 
side, presents two projecting masses/with fluted Ionic columns, 
supporting an entablature with allegorical sculptures, and 
surmounted by an attic. On the first floor are the state apart¬ 
ments, and the eastern and western sides of the court have 
galleries underneath. The eastern gallery, called the Galerie 
des Proues, still retains the naval ornaments denoting Richelieu 
as Grand Admiral. This gallery, the northern Galerie de la 
Cour, and the Galerie de Chartres to the west, are formed 
by a Doric colonnade enclosing the court. Parallel and 
contiguous to the Galerie de la Cour is the Galerie d’Orleans, 
300 feet long by 40 broad, on the site of the Galerie de Bois, 
demolished in 1830. It is a lofty hall, paved with marble and 
and roofed with glass, extending between a double range of 
shops, over which a double terrace, bordered with shrubs 
vases, serves as a promenade to the inmates of the palace. The 
Galerie de Chartres communicates with the Peristyle de Char¬ 
tres, leading to the Theatre Fran cats , formerly the private 
property of the Dukes of Orleans. (See Theatres.) 

Prince Napoleon’s apartments are not generally open to the 
public. They form two parallel suites, one looking on the 
principal court fronting the rue St. Honore, the other on the 
inner one skirted by the Galerie d’Orleans. The latter suite, 
containing the State apartments, is entered from the double- 
branched principal staircase, designed by Desorgues, and 
situated under a lofty dome at the north-eastern end of the 
principal court. It is remarkable for its beautiful bannisters 
of chiseled iron, executed by Corbin. The first room was 
the Salle d’Attente under Louis Philippe ; it now contains a 
fine collection of old French and Italian pottery, a beautiful 
cabinet adorned with Florentine mosaic, and other valuable 
furniture. Next comes the Throne-room, all in red velvet ; 
and then a splendid drawing-room. This gives access to the 
Galerie d’Orleans, which in Louis Philippe’s time possessed a 
unique collection of twelve historical paintings, all represent¬ 
ing memorabre events connected with the Palais Royal. 
These were nearly all destroyed by the populace in February, 
1848. At present this gallery contains the Emperor and 
Empress’s portraits by Winterhalter, and those of Victor 
Emmanuel and his consort Marie Adelaide, both by Gonin of 
Turin. The next room is the armoury, comprising a good 
collection of old offensive and defensive weapons. A room 
at the opposite end of the gallery contains a picture. The 
Death of Marat, by Louis David ; the next, a fine series of 


208 - FOURTH WALK* 

Roman antiquities and Etruscan vases. From this we enter 
the parallel suite, consisting of a spacious antechamber where 
there is a line collection of 54 pictures by Paolo Veronese, 
Pordenone, Bronzino, Domenico of Fiesole, &c. Next follows 
the library, which, besides being well supplied with valuable 
books, possesses two objects of interest : Napoleon the First’s 
will, and a letter in Charles XII. of Sweden’s own hand. The 
other rooms contain a variety of paintings by Ingres, Eugene 
Delacroix, and other eminent French artists. 

In the western wing of the principal court was the private 
library of Louis Philippe. It contained a valuable collection of 
upwards of 600,000 engravings, classed by Louis Philippe’s 
own hand, and filled 122 colossal folios, which perished in the 
flames with the greater part of the library on February 24. 

At 3, rue de Valois, was the Queen’s private library, which 
was also completely destroyed on that eventful day. 

The Garden, forming a rectangle of 700 feet by 300, and sur¬ 
rounded by the Galeries Beaujolais, Montpensier, Valois, and 
duJardin, is planted with rows of lime trees from end to end, 
and two flower-gardens, separated by a circular basin of water, 
with a fine jet d’eau. The garden was thus arranged in 17 99 ; 
it contains bronze copies of the Diane a la Biche of the Louvre, 
and the Apollo Belvedere; two modern statues in white marble, 
one of a young man about to bathe, by d’Espercieux ; the other 
of a boy struggling with a goat, by Lemoine; Ulysses on the 
seashore, by Bra; and Eurydice stung by the snake, by Nan- 
teuil, a fine copy in bronze, but more fitted for a gallery 
than the place it now occupies. Near this statue is a solar 
cannon, which is fired by the sun when it reaches the meridian, 
and regulates the clocks of the Palais Royal. Within the garden 
are 4 kiosks generally occupied by persons who let out jour¬ 
nals to read at a sou each; and round them are to be found 
at all hours of the day politicians of every caste and rank. 
Under the lime trees are rows of chairs, occupied, during the 
summer months, by crowds of loungers; and so great is the 
profit arising from them, and from the privilege of supplying 
frequenters of the garden with refreshments, that Government 
derives an annual rent of 38,000 fr., or £1520 from these two 
items alone. The buildings that surround the garden are all of 
uniform architecture, and consist of two stories and an attic, 
resting upon arcades, divided by fluted Composite pilasters, 
which rise to the cornice above the second story. The shops 
under the arcades are among the most elegant in Paris, ar¬ 
ranged with the greatest taste, and, being chiefly devoted to 
articles of luxury, produce a most brilliant effect. On the first 
floors are a great number of restaurants, an4 here were for- 


PALAIS ROYAL. 209 

merly the gambling-houses which rendered this place so cele¬ 
brated. The stories above are occupied by individuals of va¬ 
rious professions. Under the arcades, at the corner of the Thea¬ 
tre Francais, is Chevet’s magasin de comestibles, well known 
to epicures. In the Galerie Montpensier is the Cafe Corazza, 
and in the Galerie Beaujolais are the two restaurants of les 
Trois Freres Provencaux, Vefour, and the Cafe de la Rotonde, 
all unique in their kind. Under the Peristyle Beaujolais, to 
the north-east, is the Cafe des Aveugles, a place of amusement 
worthy of a visit by the curious traveller, as being a favourite 
resort of the lower classes. It takes its name from a band of 
blind musicians, who accompany singers in little vaudevilles. 
A “sauvage,” too, a celebrated drummer, performs here. In 
the Peristyle Joinville, at the north-west corner, is the en¬ 
trance to the Theatre da Palais Royal, formerly Montansier 
(see Theatres), not to be confounded with the Theatre Fran - 
Qais, which also communicates, as has been observed, with 
the Palais Royal. The best time for seeing this splendid 
bazaar is in the evening, when the garden and arcades are bril¬ 
liantly illuminated and full of people; the shops of the watch¬ 
makers and jewellers will then particularly strike the visitor’s 
eye. The Palais Royal has been called, not without reason, 
the Capital of Paris, and it certainly is more frequently entered 
than any other space of equal dimensions in the city. To the 
stranger it is particularly interesting from its historical associa¬ 
tions. As early as Anne of Austria, the troubles of the Fronde 
may be said to have commenced in it; there Camille Desmou¬ 
lins from one of the straw chairs harangued the populace on 
the night of the famous charge of the Prince de Lambesc; the 
club of the Jacobins was formed in it, as also that of the Ther- 
midorians ; the Dantonists met at the Cafe de Foy, the Giron¬ 
dists at the Cafe de Chartres. And still it is the same favourite 
resort of politicians, idlers, and the small rentiers of the capital. 

The immense building bordering the eastern side of the 
Place du Palais Royal (l) is the 

Hotel du Louvre, built by a company on the plan of the 
colossal hotels for which the United States are so celebrated. 
It occupies a space of nearly two English acres, between the 
rues St. Honore, de Rivoli, de Marengo, and the Place du Palais 
Royal. It has three courts, one of which, the Cour d'Hon - 

(4) Before 1848 thissquare was not one naif of its present size, 
and was bordered in front of the Palais Royal by a very hand¬ 
some fountain called the Chateau d'Eau , erected in 17 1 9 by de 
Cotte. It was here the Garde Municipale made the last des¬ 
perate resistance to the people on the 24th February 1848 ; it was 
demolished by order of the Provisional Government. 

U 


210 FOURTH WALK. 

neur, is roofed with glass. From the court an elegant 
double-branched staircase gives access to an arcaded Corin¬ 
thian gallery, 98 feet by 26, the ceiling of which is painted 
with figures representing the twelve months, by Gosse and 
Barryas, and the Genii of Arts and Sciences, by Nolau and 
Rube. This gallery communicates with the dining-room, a 
vast hall 131 feet by 42, with an altitude of 34 feet. The 
ceiling is adorned with frescos representing the Four Seasons, 
and the other decorations, as well as the hangings, curtains, 
and furniture, are of the most gorgeous description. The ex¬ 
hibitors of the Great Universal Exhibition gave a splendid 
banquet here to Prince Napoleon on the 15th of October 1855. 
The comforts contrived for the inmates of this establishment 
are of a novel description. A large clock in the Cour 
d’Honneur communicates the true time to all the bracket- 
clocks throughout the house by means of electricity ; travellers’ 
baggage is conveyed from story to story by machinery ; dishes 
are slid down hot from the kitchen into trucks which, running 
along a subterranean railway, transport them to a point where, 
by another contrivance, they are safely hoisted up to the dining¬ 
room ; the waiters are summoned by electric bells ; speaking- 
tubes communicate with the offices, the laundry, etc., and 
a constant supply of water, both hot and cold, is conveyed by 
pipes to all the apartments at the command of the visitor: 
Linen is washed and dried by steam; baths and smoking-rooms 
have also been provided. There is a telegraph office here. 

Proceeding westwards, along the rue St. Honore, the visitor 
will perceive the new facade of the Theatre Francais, ad¬ 
joining the Palais Royal (1). Here vast demolitions are in 
progress for the opening of the Avenue Napoleon , a new 
street establishing a direct communication between the just- 
mentioned theatre and the New Opera (see p. 213). Entering 
the Rue d’Argenteuil, we find, at No. 18, the house in which 
Corneille died. It has a bust of the poet in the court-yard, 
with a black slab bearing this motto, borrowed from the Cid : 

Je ne dois qu’a moi seal loute ma renommee. 

At the corner of the Rues St. Roch and St. Honore stands 
the church of 

St. Rocn,—the first stone of which was laid by Louis 
XIV. and Anne of Austria, in 1653; the architects were Le¬ 
ft) The Theatre Francais stands on the site of a rampart 
■where the Maid of Orleans was severely wounded from a 
cross-bow while trying the depth of the ditch with her lance 
during an assault. She however would not retire, but con¬ 
tinued till night to direct the placing of the faggots on which it 
was to be crossed., 


ST. ROCII. 


2 11 

mcrcier and De Costc. It is approached by a flight of steps, 
extending the whole breadth of the church, and famous 
as the theatre of many events during the several French re¬ 
volutions. The mob crowded them to see Marie Antoinette 
led to execution ; Bonaparte cleared them of that same mob 
with cannon during the Directory; in 1830 a stand was made 
there against the gendarmerie of Charles X.; and in 1848, the 
descendants of the votaries of the Goddess of Reason devoutly 
ascended those steps to deposit in the church a crucifix found 
in the palace of theTuileries. The front is Doric and Corinthian, 
84 feet in breadth, and 91 in height. The church is cruciform; 
its total length is 405 feet, that of the choir 69, and its breadth 
42; aisles with chapels run along each side. The interior 
is Doric; the piers of the arches are incrusted with marble at 
the base. Beside the entrance there is an inscription on marble, 
placed there by Louis Philippe, in 1821, to the memory of Pierre 
Corneille, who is buried here; another tablet records the 
names of benefactors to the church, and of distinguished per¬ 
sons buried there, whose tombs were destroyed in 17 93 (1). 
In the 5th chapel is a marble monument to the Abbe de l’Epee, 
by Preault, erected at the expense of deaf and dumb persons 
educated at his institution. A plain sarcophagus supports 
his bust; the figures of two children are represented in the 
act of raising their eyes towards him with an expression of 
gratitude. The inscription is . — Viro admoclum mirabili, 
sacerdoti de VEpee, qui fecit exemplo Salvatoris mutos loqui, 
decs Gallice hoc monumentum dedicanint an. 1840. Natus 

(l) The Best works of art in the chapels of this church, be¬ 
ginning from the left on entering, are—2d. chapel: A marble 
group of the Baptism of Christ, by Lemoine; on the walls, 
Christ calling on John to baptize him, and the Saviour appearing 
to his Disciples. 3d. St. Nicholas saving a ship at sea. 4th. A 
Descent from the Cross in plaster, by Bogino.—Transept : 
St. Denis preaching, by Vien.—Chapel of St. Vincent de Paul: 
paintings representing him assisting the poor, and his apo¬ 
theosis; in the window, a small specimen of old stained 
glass, representing the Saviour reading to the Virgin and 
Joseph. Here begins the series of the stations of the ViaCrucis , 
consisting of bas-reliefs in plaster, continued along the church. 
—Chapel of St. Joseph : the birth of Christ, by Tissier, and the 
death of St. Joseph, in fresco, by Brune ; in the next, St. Fran¬ 
cis de Sales, preaching, by Loyer; and the same helping a 
wayfarer through the snow, by Scheffer ; in the following is St. 
Charles Borromeo.—Lady Chapel, of an elliptical form, orna¬ 
mented with Corinthian pilasters, and surmounted by a dome 
painted in fresco by Pierre. On the altar is a group in white 
marble, by Anguier, which formerly decorated the altar of the 
Val de Grace: the infant Jesus in the manger, with the Virgin 


212 FOURTH WALK. 

an. 1712, mortuus an. 1789.—Near it, a black marble tablet, 
with the inscription: — A VAbbe de VEpee, les sourds-muets 
suedois reconnaissants. 1845. Descartes also is buried 
here.—Opposite is the pulpit, with statues of the Evangelists 
carved in oak. Following the aisle we enter the chapel of the 
Holy Sacrament, magnificently decorated in imitation of the 
Holy of Holies of the Mosaic tabernacle; all the ornaments 
of the Jewish ritual are placed here. In the windows are 
Denis the Areopagite, and Denis Afire, Archbishop of Paris, 
killed on the barricades in June, 1848. The cupola of St. Roch 
is painted by Roger, and the Empress has an elegant tribune 
in this church, which is the richest in Paris, and is celebrated 
for its music and singing on all great Catholic festivals. 

Continuing westwards along the rue St. Honore, we find to 
our right the rue du Marche St. Honore, leading to the 

Marche St. Honors, opened in 1809, on the site of the Con¬ 
vent des Jacobins, celebrated in 17 89. The entrance to the 
Club des Jacobins was the large arched gate still visible in 
the rue St. Hyacinthe. The market has now been rebuilt on 
the plan of the Central Halles (see p. 243). 

The rue Neuve des Petits Champs will lead, by the rue Me- 
hul, to the Theatre Italien. (See Theatres.) 

and Joseph kneeling ; it is a fine piece of sculpture. At the en¬ 
trance to this chapel are two paintings: Jesus purging the Tem¬ 
ple, by Thomas, and his recalling the daughter of Jairus to life, 
by Delorme.—Chapel of the Calvary: a Crucifix, by Anguier, 
that formerly stood over the altar of the Sorbonne ; close to it, 
under a vaulted recess, is a Descent from the Cross, and in a 
similar recess, on the other side, the Virgin and St. John, 
a group in plaster.—In the ist chapel after that of the Virgin, 
in the opposite aisle, are Christ preaching, and Mary Magdalen, 
byBrisset; 2 d. the martyrdom of St. Catherine on the wheel, 
and her Apotheosis, by Brune; 3d. St. Agnes in prayer, and 
her inspiration by the Holy Ghost, by Bohn ; 4th. Ste. Clotilde 
praying, and her Apotheosis, by Landelle.—Transept: an altar- 
piece by Doyen, the Cure of the Mai des Ardents, in 1230, 
through the intercession of Ste. Genevieve.— 5 th chapel: St. 
Peter preaching; Christ delivering the keys to St. Peter. 6lh. 
Sorrow for the Departed, and Joy at the announcement of their 
resurrection in Heaven; 7lh. Stephen disputing, andhisLapi- 
dation, by Roux; also a marble monument to the Duke de 
Crequi; 8th. the Resurrection of Christ, and the angel an¬ 
nouncing that event to the three holy women; and monuments 
to the infamous Cardinal Dubois, Mignard the painter, Len&tre, 
the designer of the gardens of Versailles, and the Count de Har- 
court. The last chapel, which contains monuments to Mauper- 
tuis, the Duke de Lesdiguieres, and the Marshal d’Asfeld, is 
also adorned with two frescos, by Quantin, representing the de¬ 
parture and return of the Prodigal Son. 


FRENCH OPERA HOUSE. 213 

Next to this, the Passage Choiseul , one of the handsomest 
in Paris, will lead the visitor to the 

Fontaine Louis le Grand, at the corner of rue de la Micho- 
diere and rue du Port Mahon.—This pretty fountain, erected 
in 1712, and rebuilt in 1828, is adorned with a figure striking 
a dolphin with a trident. Two monolith basins, in the shape 
of ancient tazze, receive the water. The capitals, &c., are 
ornamented with sculptures of fish, shells, aquatic plants, etc. 
The following was the inscription:— 

Regnante Carolo X. 

Pristinum fontem angustiore area jam ampliflcata, Communi 
utilitati urbisque ornamento, In majus reslituerunt praefectus 
et aediles Anno M.DCCC.XX.VIII. 
but the first line of it was effaced in 1830. 

By the rue du Port Mahon we reach the Boulevard des 
Capucines and rue de la Chaussee d’Antin (1). In this street 
lived Grimmin 1778, when he took youngMozartintohis house. 

Continuing westwards along the boulevard, the visitor will 
see, on the northern side, the new Grand H6tel , vying in 
size and grandeur with the Hotel du Louvre already men¬ 
tioned. The ground it occupies cost 8 millions of francs, and 
the building and furniture 14 millions more. Adjoining is 
the new and immense 

French Opera-house, which is still in course of construc¬ 
tion. It occupies an area of 140 metres by 122, in the 
centre of a large space enclosed by the Boulevard des Italiens, 

(l) The nomenclature of this street has undergone many 
changes. It was at first called Chemin des Porcherons, being at 
that time only a rugged road crossing the Pr£s des Porcherons, 
an open space, the favourite resort of duellists and debauchees. 
It was next named Chaussee Gaillon, on account of its proximity 
to the Porte Gaillon; afterwards rue de 1 Hotel Dieu, from its lead¬ 
ing to a farm belonging to that hospital; subsequently on the 
building of the Hotel d’Antin it became the Chaussee d’Antin. In 
1791 it received the name of rue Mirabeau , in memory of the ce¬ 
lebrated revolutionary orator, who resided in it at the time ol 
his death, at No. 42. In 1793 it was called rue Montblanc, but at 
the Restoration it resumed its name of Chaussee d'Antin. No. 62 
stands on the site of a small hotel inhabited by Josephine before 
her marriage with Napoleon ; General Foy died there. The last 
house on the right was the hotel of Cardinal Fesch. Necker also 
lived in this street. To give an idea of the immense value of 
ground here we may state that the Hotel Pillet-Will was lately 
bought by the City for 2 , 100,000 fr., or at the rate of 630 fr. per 
square metre. In 1675, the price of ground on that spot was 
three sous per square toise, or four square metres, and in 1722 
when the Chauss^e-d’Antin Avas transformed from a dirty lan« 
into a street, the square toise cost three livre§. In mo^ thq 
price varied from eight to ten livres. 


214 FOURTH WALK. 

the Rues Scribe, Auber, Halevy, and Neuve des Mathurins. 
Its general plan comprises a facade of coupled columns sur¬ 
mounted by an attic, and two lateral projections with 
carriage-ways under arched porticoes reaching to the level of 
the first row of boxes. The busts of Adam, Bellini, Weber, 
Nicolo, Mehul, Piccini, Philidor, Rousseau, Campra, Durante, 
Jomelli, Monsigny, Gretry, Verdi, Donizetti, Herold, Boieldieu, 
and Berton are placed in niches under the cornice. The back 
part of the building is reserved for the Administration and 
various offices. The outer vestibule is preceded by an open 
gallery, facing the boulevard ; then comes an inner vestibule, 
where the tickets are exchanged. Right and left of this there 
are two galleries for the public who have not taken tickets be¬ 
forehand. From the second vestibule the principal staircase 
gives access to the orchestra, the stalles d’amphitheatre, and 
the baignoires : (see p. 4G2) it stops at the first flor.r, that is, 
at the first row of boxes, and the grand foyer or saloon. To 
the right and left of the principal staircase there are two others 
with bannisters in the middle, one side being for going up, and 
the other for coming down. These staircases are continued to the 
top rows of boxes. The principal foyer , looking on the bou¬ 
levard, is GO metres by 13, and has a small circular boudoir 
at each end. It communicates with the lobby by six en¬ 
trances. The part for the audience is entirely built of stone 
and iron : it is 32 metres long by 30 in breadth, with five 
tiers of boxes, and will afford accommodation for 2,500 spec¬ 
tators. There is a small salon attached to each box, includ¬ 
ing those of the 4th tier. Two avant scenes, or stage-boxes, 
are reserved for the Emperor and Imperial family. The house 
will be lighted by a splendid lustre and branch chandeliers. 
An excellent system of ventilation has been provided in the 
cupola which crowns the edifice. Below the stage, which is 
25 metres long by 38 in breadth, there is a depth of 14 
metres, to obtain which, the architect, M. Gamier, was obliged 
to sink his foundations far. below a subterranean sheet of 
water, an engineering difficulty which he has overcome with 
surprising ability. The advantage thus obtained at immense 
cost is, that instead of making the lower part of a scene meet 
a fly from above, which always produces a disagreeable 
effect, he can have it drawn up from below all of a piece. 
The artists entrusted with the interior decoration are M. 
Cabanel for the paintings of the staircase, and M. Baudry for 
those of the foyer. The external sculpture is being executed 
by MM. Cavelier and Aime Millet. 

Continuing westwards, we find, at the corner of the rue 
des Capucines, the spot where, on the night of the 23d Feb- 


RESIDENCE OF NAPOLEON. 215 

ruary, 1848, the eventful shot was fired, which led to the 
overthrow of the monarchy. This site was occupied at the 
time, and until September, 1853, by the Foreign Office, a 
building erected by the minister Berlin in the 18th century (1). 
It was taken on the 13th Vendemiaire by General Bonaparte, 
who, after inhabiting it for some years, gave the property to 
Marshal Berthier, who sold it to the government in 1821. 

At No. 65 in the rue Caumartin opposite, is the 
Lycee Bonaparte, once a convent of Capuchins, designed 
by Brongniart in 1781. The front is 162 feet long by 42 in 
height. It consists of a central Doric door-way, flanked by 
two pavilions at the extremities; one of which is now 
The Church of St. Louis d’Antin, a plain Doric building, 
with a nave and aisle, and a semicircular choir. The ceiling of 
the choir is painted by Signol. The walls of the nave display 
the 12 Apostles, painted in wax by Cornu and Bezart. There 
are also the Agony of Christ, by Goyet; and Christ at Emmaus, 
by Dumas. In an urn in the baptismal chapel, is the heart 
of Count de Choiseul, the Grecian traveller. 

Further on, is the handsome Passage da Havre. 

The rue Joubert to our right leads to Ihe rue de la Victoire. 
Here at No. 60 is the site of a house once inhabited by Napo¬ 
leon and Josephine (2). Returning to the Chaussee d’Antin and 
turning to the right, we perceive the new 

fioLiSE de LA Trinite, one of the most striking features of 
which is the elliptical balustraded carriage-way encircling a 
delightful public garden, 3,000 square metres in surface. The 
church itself is built in the style of the Renaissance, with 
three front entrances, surmounted by a rose-window and two 
trilobate ones. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, 
adorned with paintings by MM. Jobbe-Duval, Barrias, Emile 
Lev)', and Delaunay. These paintings, with the accessory 
decorations have cost 157,000fr., besides 192,000 fr. devoted 
to the sculptural subjects, executed by MM. Cavelier, Maillet, 

(1) The shop-front of Mr. Giroux's immense premises oc¬ 
cupies the precise position ofihc gale of the old. Foreign Office, 
around which the soldiers stood on the night alluded to. The 
rue St. Arnaud has been run across part of the ground. 

(2) We here subjoin a brief notice of the different places at 
which Napoleon I. resided in Paris from his first arrival up 
to the i8th Brumaire, and the establishment of the Consu¬ 
lar government.— Eeole Militaire : Bonaparte coming from the 
military school of Brienne, was admitted here Oct. 19 th, 1784, 
and occupied a small room on the upper story.— Quad de Conti , 
No. 5. Here Bonaparte occupied a small garret, afterwards 
called the “ Eagle’s Nest.”— Hotel de Metz, rue du Mail , from May 
to September 1792 , Bonaparte, then a captain of artillery, was 


210 FOURTH WALK. 

Crauk, Carpeaux, Guillaume Doublemard, and Dantan, jnn. 
The total cost of this church amounts to 3,888,911 fr. J 
Architect, M. Ballu. 

At No. 30 is the College Municipal Chaptal (see p. loo), 
and higher up, at No. 7 0, the late Prison for Debtors. 

The rue Vintimille leads to the Place of that name, in the 
centre of which is a pretty square, covering a space of 778 
metres. The rue Percier leads us into the rue Fontaine 
St. Georges, where we find, at No. 30, a profusely sculptured 
house in the style of the time of Francis I. The quarter crossed 
by this street, and the rue Notre Dame deLorette, has received 
the name of La Nouvelle Athenes. The Place St. Georges, 
with its fountain, richly sculptured edifices, and gardens, will 
attract notice. No. 27 is the residence of M. Thiers. This 
quarter is the favourite abode of artists, actresses, and femmes 
galantes. Further down is the church of 

ordered to Paris to answer for some strong political opinions 
he had expressed while he was in garrison at Valence.— Hotel 
des Droits de I’Homme, rue du Mail, October, 1794. Bonaparte was 
then general of artillery; his brother Louis and Junot accom¬ 
panied him as aides-de-camp. They lodged together on the 4th 
story, at a rent of 27 livres in specie per month. His friendship 
for Talma, which continued unabated to his death, commenced 
in this house, to which the great actor resorted to give lessons 
in declamation to “ La citoyenne Petit,” aftcrwardsMme. Talma. 
—Rue de la Michodiere, No. 19. Being without employment in 
very narrow circumstances, and unwilling to go to La Vendee 
as a general of infantry, Bonaparte occupied a small lodging in 
the upper story of this house.— Hotel Mirabeau, rue du Dauphin , 
1795. Bonaparte disgraced occupied himself in visiting the dif¬ 
ferent members of the National Convention, to solicit employ¬ 
ment. In this hotel he slept on the eve of the 13 th Vendemiaire, 
of that memorable day on which, having obtained the command 
of the troops through the favour of Barras, he defeated “ the 
sections,” and opened his way to the appointment of “ General 
in Chief of the Army of Italy.”— Hotel de la Colonnade, rue Neuve 
des Capucines. Here Bonaparte installed himself on the 13th 
Venddmiaire, and remained during the disarming of “ the 
sections,” and here, on the 9th March, 1796, was celebrated his 
marriage with Josephine, widow of General Beauharnais, who had 
perished on the scaffold.— Rue Chantereine , No. 60, whither Bo¬ 
naparte removed on his marriage with Josephine This hotel he 
left 21 st March, 1796, to assume the command of the army of 
Italy, and on Dec. 5th, 1 797, returned to it, preceded by no 
standards, 550 pieces of cannon, and 60,ooo,ooofr. remitted to the 
State; in honour of which the municipality voted that the street 
should bear the name of the “ rue de la Victoire.” Here Bona-* 
parle received his appointment to the command oftheexpe-. 
dition to Egypt; and from this hotel emanated those intrigues, 
which le/i to the 19 th Brumaire and his di'ctatocship. 


NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE. 217 

Notre Dame de Lorette. —This beautiful church was 
commeuced in 1823, after the designs of M. Le Bas. Its ex¬ 
ternal dimensions are 204 feet by 96. A square campanile 
crowns the roof of the choir. The portico is composed of four 
Corinthian columns, supporting a pediment, in which are sculp¬ 
tured in alto-rilievo the Virgin and infant Saviour adored by 
angels. On the frieze is the inscription :— beat\e marine vir- 
gini lauretana:. Over the pediment are the figures of Faith, 
Hope, and Charity. The principal entrance under the portico 
is flanked by smaller ones at the extremities of the facade. 
In the interior two rows of eight Ionic columns, to the right 
and left, separate the nave from the aisles; the choir terminates 
in a hemicycle. Two more rows of columns separate the la¬ 
teral chapels from the aisles; the ceilings are divided info com¬ 
partments, richly sculptured and ornamented with rosettes, all 
highly coloured or profusely gilt. At the entrance of each arsle 
is a semicircular chapel surmounted by a cupola; that on the 
right being the baptistery, where several frescos, by Blondel, 
represent the fall and the regeneration of man; in the cupola ares 
painted Intelligence, Innocence, Wisdom, and the Guardian 
Angel, with the attributes of Baptism. At the other extremity 
of this aisle is the chapel of the Holy Communion, painted by 
Perin. The subject of the paintings is, Christ instituting the 
Eucharist, variously illustrated. The walls are painted in 
compartments, expressive of Faith, Hope, Charity, Truth, Hos¬ 
pitality, 8cc. The pendentives represent the birth of Christ, 
his preaching, sufferings, and death. In the other aisle, the 
first chapel is dedicated to the dead, with paintings, by Blondel, 
of the Resurrection, the Sepulchre, and various scenes of death 
at different stages. At the opposite extremity is the chapel of 
the Virgin, by Perin, in a style similar to that of the Com¬ 
munion, representing her as the Queen of the Martyrs, 
the refuge of sinners, etc. The remaining chapels, three in 
each aisle, are separated by partitions, with doors to com¬ 
municate. Their walls are covered with paintings, representing; 
passages from the lives of the saints to whom they are dedi¬ 
cated (1). Over the columns and entablature of the nave are 
8 beautiful frescos illustrative of the life of the Virgin, by 
Dubois, Langlois, Vinchon, Monvoisin, Dejuinnes, Grange, 
Hesse, and Coutan. The choir is fitted up with stalls ; 
a gilt balustrade separates it from the rest of the nave, and 
its walls are incrusted with rich marbles. The high altar 
is supported by columns of the Corinthian order, with 

(i) By Hesse, Coutan, Alfred Johannot, Langlois, Caminade^ 
Deeaisnes, Dejuinnes, Deveria, )Schnetz, Etex, Champmartin* 
Couder, Goyet, Masdaines Varcolier, and Deherain, 


FOURTH WALK 


218 

gilt bronze bases and capitals. Over the stalls are painted 
the Presentation in the Temple, by Heim, and Jesus in the 
Temple, by Drolling. The dome of the choir is adorned with 
figures of the four Evangelists, by Delorme; on the concave 
ceiling behind the high altar is the Crowning of the Virgin, by 
Picot, on a ground of gold. The cost of the church was about 
1,800,000 fr. Service is performed here with much pomp, 
and the singing is remarkably good. 

Descending the rue Laffitte (1) we find at Nos. 21 and 23 
the splendid hotels of Messrs. Rothschild. Here we see the 
Rue Lafayette prolonged to the New Opera (see pp 213 
and 233). Further down there is the rue Rossini, crossing 
the rue Le Peletier, where the stranger will remark the 
old French Opera House, soon to be pulled down (see 
Theatres). It was here the atrocious attempt upon the lives 
of the Emperor and Empress took place (2), Jan. 14th, 1858. 
Further on, in the rue Chauchat, is the 

(O This street was first called rue d’Artois, in honour of the 
Comte d’Artois. It was subsequently called rue Cerutti, in me¬ 
mory of the Abbe of that name, the editor of a revolutionary paper 
called the “ Feuille Villageoise,” and friend of Mirabeau and 
Talleyrand. His house was the first in the street, where the 
Maison Dor6e now stands. The rue Cerutti ended in a splend'd 
hotel and grounds successively inhabited by M. Thelusson, the 
rich banker, and Murat. Its site is now occupied by the street 
and the church of Notre Dame de Lorette. In l s 1 5 it became 
once more the rue d’Artois, but received its present name in 
1830 ; the hotel of M. Lafiitte, at the corner of the rue de Pro¬ 
vence, having been the centre of operations at that period. 

(2) As the Imperial carriage, escorted by a detachment of 
Lancers, was approaching the Opera-house from the Boulevard, 
three explosive shells were thrown on the pavement just before 
the body of the carriage, and bursting into fragments spread 
destruction around. One of the horses of the Imperial carriage 
was killed on the spot, the other, being wounded, became un¬ 
governable, and broke the pole against the door-post cf the ves¬ 
tibule. The coachman and lackeys were all wounded; their 
Majesties, as is well known, most providentially escaped unhurt. 
One hundred and forty-one persons among the by-standers, in¬ 
cluding several Lancers, were more or less severely wounded; 
eight were either killed on Ihe spot or died of their wounds. 
The Imperial carriage was pierced with 43 holes made by the 
fragments of the first shell only, and the windows of the houses 
opposite were broken up to the fourth story. Their Majesties in 
so trying a moment evinced the greatest presence of mind, and 
in company with the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, entered the theatre 
to allay by their presence the universal alarm which prevailed. 
Four persons, named Orsini, Fieri, Rudio, and Gomez, w ere sub¬ 
sequently tried for the crime, and the two former executed. 


LA BOURSE. 219 

Eglise Evangelique de la Redemption, a Lutheran 
church ; it has a Doric portal, under a massive arch of ma¬ 
sonry. The interior consists of a nave without aisles, ter¬ 
minating in a hemicycle, and fitted up with pews and galleries. 

At the corner of the rues Rossini and Drouot is a spacious 
building, containing auction-rooms, and at No. o, rue Drouot, 
is the Maine of the 9th arrondissement, established in the Hotel 
Aguado. Continuing along the rue Grange Bateliere, we find 
to the left the Passage Verdean , and opposite, the Passage 
Jouffroy , leading to the Boulevard Montmartre. This, and 
the Passage des Panoramas , on the opposite side of the Boule¬ 
vard, are the most brilliant Passages of Paris. Close to the 
latter stands the pretty Theatre des Varietes. (see Theatres.) 

The adjoining Boulevard des Italiens, formerly known by 
the name of Boulevard de Gand (l), is remarkable for its ele¬ 
gant shops and cafes. At the corner of the rue Laffitte we see 
the Maison Doree, occupied by a well-known restaurant. 
There are other restaurants and coffee-houses of note on this 
Boulevard: such as Tortoni’s and the Cafe Riche. The two 
Passages de VOpera, on the same Boulevard, deserve a visit. 
In the rue Marivaux is the Opera Comique (see Theatres.) 

The stranger will pass before some fine houses at the top of 
rue Richelieu, built on part of the site of the Hotel Frascati, a 
celebrated gaming-house, and then pass, by the rue St. Marc, 
into the rue Neuve Vivienne. The shops of this quarter display 
great elegance and taste. 

Descending the rue Vivienne, we arrive at the Place de la 
Bourse, on the west side of which is the Theatre du Vaude¬ 
ville (see Theatres). Opposite stands 

The Exchange, or La Bourse. —Meetings of merchants 
for the transactions of business were held regularly for the 
first time in 17 24, at the Hotel Mazarin, rue Neuve des Petits 
Champs, the residence of Law, the financier. During the re¬ 
volution of 17 89 they were removed to the Church des Petits 
Peres, then to the Palais Royal, and next to a temporary build¬ 
ing in the rue Feydeau. The present building was erected 
in 1808 - 1820 , by Brongniart, on the site of the convent des 
Filles St. Thomas. The Bourse is a parallelogram of 212 feet 
by 120, and surrounded by 06 Corinthian columns, support¬ 
ing an entablature and attic, and forming a peristyle, which is 
approached by a flight of steps extending the whole length of 
the western front. Over the entrance is inscribed :— Bourse et 
Tribunal de Commerce. The roof of this edifice is entirely iron 
and copper. At the corners of the edifice are four statues, 

(l) Thus named, because frequented by the legitimists, during 
Louis XVIII.’s slay at Gand, at the time of the Hundred Days. 



220 FOURTH WALK. 

placed there in 1852, those facing the Vaudeville representing 
Commerce, by Dumont, and Consular Justice, by Duret; and 
those facing the rue Notre Dame des Victoires, Industry, by Pra- 
dier, and Agriculture, by Seurre. The Salle de la Bourse in 
the centre of the building, on the ground floor, where stock¬ 
brokers and merchants meet, is 116 feet in length, by 7 6 in 
breadth. It is Doric, and surrounded by two tiers of arcades, 
the basement of which, as well as the sides of the hall, are of 
marble. Below the upper cornice are inscribed in separate 
medallions the names of the principal mercantile cities of the 
world. Over the central arch is a clock, and opposite a dial- 
plate marking the motions of a weather-vane outside. The 
hall is lit from the roof, and a deeply-coved ceiling is covered 
with admirable monochrome drawings, in 16 compartments, by 
Abel de Pujol and Meynier; the figures are 10 feet high. (1) The 
pavement of this hall, which will contain 2000 persons, is en¬ 
tirely of marble. At its eastern end is a circular space, called 
the parquet, railed round exclusively for the stock-brokers; 
another railed space to the left is for their assesseurs , or assist¬ 
ants. Behind this is a room where the stock-brokers assemble be¬ 
fore business. To the right are the chambers of the committee and 
syndicate of the agents de change, and of the courtiers de com¬ 
merce. On the left a wide staircase leads first to the offices for 
transfers, then to a spacious gallery, supported by Doric co¬ 
lumns, and to the Hall of the Tribunal of Commerce. At the 
opposite end is the Court of Bankruptcy, its ceiling is vaulted- 
and painted in grisaille by Abel de Pujol, in allegorical com, 
partments, representing Trades, Commerce, &c. From the gal¬ 
lery a corridor extends all round, and communicates with other 
public offices ; this gallery commands the best view of the in¬ 
terior, and of the decorations of the ceiling. Admittance to 
the Bourse is free (2), except for the fair sex, who are not al- 

(1) The subjects are :—On the left, Commercial France accept¬ 
ing the Tribute of the four parts of the World—Europe—Asia— 
the personification of the town of Nantes—that of Rouen. In 
front, the city of Paris delivering the keys to the Genius of Com¬ 
merce, and inviting Commercial Justice to enter the walls pre¬ 
pared for her—the personification of the town of Lille—that of 
Bordeaux. On the right, the Union of Commerce and the Arts 
giving birth to the prosperity of the State—the personifications 
of Africa—America—Lyons—Bayonne. Above the entrance the 
City of Paris receiving from the nymph of the Seine and the 
Genius of the Ourcq the productions of Abundance—personifica¬ 
tions of Strasbourg—Marseilles. 

(2) Before November 22 , 1861, an entrance-fee of one franc 
w,is exacted, a regulation which was put in force ip 1857 , apd 
which produced ap apnual profit of 600,000 fr. 


BIBLIOTIlfeQUE IMPERIALS. 221 

lowed to enter without a permission from M. le Commissaire 
de la Bourse , it having been found that the habit of visiting 
this Temple of Plutus engendered a passion for gambling 
among them. By way of compensation, many ladies indulge 
their propensity for money speculations by loitering outsfde 
the railing. The business hours are—for money transactions, 
from 12 to 3; for mercantile purposes, from 3 to 5. The 
bustle and animation among the speculators is a most curious 
sight, and the din caused by the bawling of the stockbrokers 
is bewildering. This splendid edifice cost 8,149,000 fr. 

At No. 2, Place de la Bourse, there is the Chamber of 
Commerce, and in the same building the small but well selected 
B’hliotheque du Commerce, open daily to the public, holidays 
excepted, from 11 to 4. In the rue de Bichelieu is the 

Place Louvois. —Here the French Opera-house formerly 
stood; but after the assassination of the Duke de Berri at the 
entrance of that theatre, in 1820, it was removed, and an ex¬ 
piatory monument was begun on the site under Charles X., 
but the revolution of 1830 interfered with its completion, 
and in 1835 the space was decorated with a fountain, at a 
cost of about 100,000 fr. It is now an elegant square co¬ 
vering 1776 sq. metres; the fountain, designed by Visconti, con¬ 
sists of an ample octagonal basin of stone, out of which rises a 
stone pedestal, with 4 genii of galvanized cast-iron, riding on 
spouting dolphins, supporting a patera. In the centre of this 
stand four bronze caryatides, representing the Seine, the Loire, 
the Saone, and the Garonne, supporting another patera sur¬ 
mounted by an amphora out of which the water flows. 

The long edifice opposite, in course of reconstruction, is the 

BibliotiiEque Imperiale. —From the introduction of Chris¬ 
tianity into France to the time of St. Louis, the few books 
existing in the kingdom belonged to the numerous convents 
which had been successively established, and were confined to 
copies of the Bible, treatises of the fathers, canons, missals, and 
a few Greek and Latin authors. St. Louis caused copies to be 
made of all these manuscripts, and had them arranged in a 
room attached to the Sainte Chapelle. This collection the king 
bequeathed to several monasteries. From St. Louis to king 
John, we have no historical notice of any royal library; and 
even that possessed by the latter monarch did not exceed eight 
or ten volumes. Charles V., his successor, who patronized 
literature, caused many works to be copied, and others to be 
translated; with these, and some that were presented to him, 
he formed a library, consisting of 910 volumes. They were 
deposited in a tower of the Louvre, called la Tour de la Li - 
brairie, and consisted of illuminated missals and other religious 






222 FOURTH WALK. 

works, legends of miracles, lives of saints, and treatises upon 
astrology, geomancy, and palmistry. To afford literary per¬ 
sons an opportunity at all times of consulting this library, a 
silver lamp was kept constantly burning. This collection was 
partly dispersed under Charles VI. The remainder disappeared 
under the regency of the Duke of Bedford, who purchased it 
for 1200 livres, and sent the greater part to England. Louis XT. 
collected the books scattered through the various royal palaces, 
to which he added several other collections; and, printing 
having been recently invented, he purchased copies of all the 
books that were published. In 1496, Louis XII. caused the 
library of the Louvre to be transported to Blois, and also added 
to the collection the libraries of the Sforza and Visconti from 
Pavia, Petrarch’s collection, and the cabinet of Gruthuse, a 
Flemish gentleman. In 1544, Francis I. had the whole removed 
to Fontainebleau, and the catalogue of that date gives, as the 
total of the collection, 1890 volumes, amongst which were 900 
printed volumes, and 38 or 39 Greek MSS., brought from 
Naples and deposited at Blois by Lascaris. This monarch 
added greatly to the royal library, and first began the formation 
of its celebrated cabinet of medals. Henry II. decreed that a 
bound copy on vellum of every book printed should be deposited 
in the royal library. In 1527, by the confiscation of the effects 
of the Connetable de Bourbon, the library was increased; but 
the Ligueurs carried off some of the most valuable manuscripts. 
Catherine de Medicis left the royal library a collection of 
medals and manuscripts which she had brought from Florence. 
In 1594, Henry IV. had the library transferred from Fontaine¬ 
bleau to Paris, and placed in the College de Clermont (now 
Lycee Louis le Grand), left unoccupied by the Jesuits, recently 
expelled from France. It was next transferred to the convent 
of the Cordeliers, and under Louis XIII., when it consisted of 
16,7 4 6 volumes, to a spacious house in the rue de la 
Harpe. Louis XIV. increased the treasures of the royal 
library considerably, and opened it to the public. In 
1666, Colbert bought two houses adjoining his residence 
in the rue Vivienne, to which the books were removed. 
This extensive collection, daily swelled by presents, 
purchases, &c., contained at the death of Louis XIV., in 1715, 
more than 7 0,000 volumes. Under the regency of the Duke of 
Orleans, it was removed to the present hotel, formerly occu¬ 
pied by Cardinal Mazarin. Upon the suppression of the 
monasteries in 17 89, all the books belonging to them were de¬ 
posited in the library, then called Bibliotheque Nationale 
a name it resumed in 1848, and retained until 1852, when it 
received its present one. An annual grant is made by go- 



MBLIOTHEQUE IMP&RIALE. 223 

vernment for the purchase of books, engravings, antiquities, 
etc. The Bibliotheque Imperiale is divided into four depart¬ 
ments : 1. Printed works, maps, and geographical collections ; 
2. Manuscripts, genealogies, autographs, &c. ; 3. Medals, an¬ 
tique gems, &c.; 4. Engravings. All these departments arc 
under the control of a responsible director, and each department 
is superintended by a conservator and assistant conservator. 

The Library and its dependencies are visible on Tuesdays 
and Fridays, from 1 to 3, without either ticket or fee. 

The length of the building is 540 feet, its breadth 130 ; its 
total surface, including the courts, is 14,200 square metres. (1) 
The principal court is partly laid out as a garden. ( 2 ) 

Library of Printed Works. —The number of volumes con¬ 
tained in this section is estimated at 1,800,000, exclusive of 
300,000 pamphlets. (1) Here we find the original model in 
bronzed plaster, of the admirable statue of Voltaire, by Houdon, 
the copy of which in white marble is at the Theatre Francais. 
There is also a model of the Egyptian Pyramids, with the 
surrounding country. Here likewise are specimens of ancient 
ornamental bookbinding, and also two models in porcelain, 
brought from Canton, and presented to Louis XIV., of the 
celebrated Porcelain Towers of China ; also a piece of sculpture 
in bronze, executed in 1721, by Titon du Tillet, called the 
“ French Parnassus,” its summits and slopes covered with 
figures in classic attire, representing the most celebrated 
writers, each occupying an elevation proportionate to his 
merit. There are also busts of Jean Paul and Jerome Bignon, 
and of Van Praet, and an Egyptian bust of porphyry. The 
library also possesses the “ Description of the Papyrus of Nas- 

( 1 ) Cardinal Mazarin having married his niece Hortensia de 
Mancini, in lGGi, to the Duke de la Meilleraie, constituted him 
his sole heir on condition that he would hear his arms and 
name. On the death of the cardinal this palace was divided ; 
that part towards the rue Richelieu came into the possession of 
his nephew, the Marquis de Mancini, and was called Hotel de 
Nevers. The oilier part, facing the rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 
fell to the share of the Duke de Mazarin (de la Meilleraie), and 
bore the name of Hotel de Mazarin , till 1719 , when the Regent 
bought and gave it to the India Company. The Exchange was 
afterwards established there, and then the Treasury. 

(2) The new galleries are entirely built of stone and iron ; in 
some of the rooms not accessible to the public there are four 
tiers of galleries connected together by iron bridges; the floor¬ 
ing consists of parallel iron bars with spaces between, in order 
not to deprive the lower tiers of the necessary day-light. In 
1865, the heart of Voltaire, long deposited at the Chateau de 
la Villette, near Pont St. Maxence (Oise), was transferred to the 
Imperial library with great solemnity. 


224 FOURTH WALK. 

Khem,” published by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and the 29 
volumes of Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte on languages. The 
works are arranged according to the system of Debure, a 
celebrated bibliophilist. On the ground floor are modern folio 
editions, on vellum, See., or copies remarkable for the rich- 
mess of their binding. (1) 

The Salle des Globes is a hall situated in a gallery formerly 
rased .as a reading-room. It owes its name to two immense 
copper globes nearly 12 feet in diameter, executed at 
Venice, by Pietro Goronelli, by order of the Cardinal 
d’Esfcrees, who in 1683 presented them to Louis XIV., 
to whom they were dedicated. The 

Collection of Maps and Globes is very curious and complete, 
containing about 300,000 civil, military, and marine maps, 
charts, views, See., including some of Japan. The topo¬ 
graphy of Paris alone occupies 56 out of 500 large folio 
volumes. Tables are provided for students and amateurs. The 

Collection of Manuscripts consists of about 12 5,000 
voOrtimes, in Greek, Latin, Oriental, French, and other languages, 
including 30,000 which relate to the history of France. The 
catalogue of the manuscripts alone fills 24 volumes, besides 
ample supplements to each. Many of the old bindings are very 
costly, a»d most of them enriched with carvings of ivory, and 
precious stones. The most remarkable room of all is a superb 
gallery, which existed in the time of Cardinal Mazarin. Its 
length is 140 feet, and its breadth 22. The ceiling, painted in 
fresco, by Romanelli, in 1651, represents various subjects of fa¬ 
bulous history, in compartments. In this gallery are preserved 
very valuable and curious manuscripts. Among them are: a 
ILatin manuscript of the Vlth century, on papyrus ; the 
manuscripts of Galileo ; letters from Henry IV. to Gabrielle 
(d’Estrees; the prayer-books of St. Louis and Anne of Bri- 
ttanny, and one which belonged in succession to Charles V., 
Charles IX., and Henry III., and bears their signatures, all 
beautifully written on vellum, and richly illuminated; the 
MS. of Telemachus, in Fenelon’s own hand; autograph 
memoirs of Louis XIV., See. The most ancient manuscripts now 
m this collection are some missals of the fifth century. 
Among the foreign MSS. are some Coptic, Persian, Indian, 
Arabic, Ethiopian, Japanese, Armenian, Siamese, Sec., re¬ 
markable for their beauty. Among the Chinese MSS. 297 
were received in 1867 from the French Embassy at Pekin, 
together with 51 inscriptions of the earliest period, one of 

(l) The catalogue of the Bibliotli&que Imp6riale is making 
nrapid progress. The first volume, relating to the History of France, 
has been finished under the direction of M. Taschereau. 


BIBLIOTHEQUE IMPERIALE. 225 

Which dating 2,000 years B.C.; also three on marble 
slabs, and one on jade. A collection of autogragh letters, 
of Henry IV., Louis XVI., Turenne, Mine, de Maintenon, 
Voltaire, Mme. deSevigne, Racine, Moliere, Corneille, Boileau, 
Delille, Bossuet, Mile, de la Valliere, Franklin, Rousseau, Lord 
Byron, Montesquieu, and the Golden Bull of the Emperor Fre¬ 
deric II., with its seal (1220) are arranged under glass frames. 
At the extremity of the gallery is a fac-sinnle of a record of the 
year 781, in Chinese and Syriac, found at Canton in 1628, 
giving an account of the arrival of Syrian missionaries in 
Chnia, in the 7 th and 8th centuries. The reading-room of the 
manuscript department isopen to students daily (1). The 
Collection of Engravings, which is open to students, is situ¬ 
ated on the ground floor of the wing opposite the entrance. 
About 157 6, under the reign of Henry 111., Claude Mangis, 
Abbot of St. Ambrose and almoner to the Queen, first 
conceived the idea of forming a cabinet of engravings. His 
connection with Marie de Medicis putting him frequently 
in communication with the Florentines, he enriched his 
collection with the works of the best Italian engravers. 
Jean Delorme, physician to the Queen, having inherited 
the collection of the abbot, added it to another col¬ 
lection formed by the Abbe de Merolles, both of which, being 
purchased by Colbert in 1667, were placed in the rue Riche¬ 
lieu. The abbe’s collection comprised 440 volumes, containing 
about 125,000 prints, and to this were afterwards added other 
acquisitions—that of Gaignieres, in 1711; of Beringhen, in 
1731; of Marshal d’Uxelles, in 17 53 ; of Begon, in 1770 ; and 
several others less considerable. This collection now occupies 
a splendid gallery, built by Mansard, the exact counterpart (the 
frescos excepted) of the Gallery of Manuscripts (see p. 224), 
under which it is situated. It has eight windows ; the engrav¬ 
ings are arranged in commodious book-cases, and there are 
six tables with double desks for the convenience of stu¬ 
dents, who are admitted on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, 
and Saturdays; on Tuesdays and Fridays it is, like the rest, 
open to the public. It is preceded by a vestibule, hung with 
engravings in frames. The collection is composed of 1,320,000 
engravings, contained in upwards of 9,600 volumes or port¬ 
folios. The 15th century is represented by the works of 16 
engravers; among which may be remarked ail anonymous 
piece, of the date 1400, as well as the productions of Maso 
Finiguerra, Martin Schcengauer, and Israel Van Mechen. The 
engravers of the 16th century whose works are exhibited here 

(1) To procure a manuscript the number of the volume must 
be given to the librarian. 


15 


226 FOURTH WALK. 

are 14 in number, comprising Albert Durer, Marc-Antony 
Raimondi of Bologna, &c.; besides a piece curious as being the 
production of Jean Duvet, the first French engraver, born 
in 1485. Fifty-one engravers, among whom are some of the 
celebrated painters of Germany and Italy, as well as some 
French engravers of merit, form the historical series for the 
17 th century, and their works include some magnificent plates 
of the age of Louis XIV. The collection of the Chevalier 
Hennin, relating to the history of France, was added in 18 63. 
This series comprises about 20,000 pieces, several of the 
time of Henry IV. The series for the 18th and 19th cen¬ 
turies are too numerous and too well known to need de¬ 
scription. Persons desirous of examining the volumes should 
ask, in the schools of Italy, for the works of Michael Angelo, 
Raphael, Titian, Correggio, the Carracci, and Guido;—in 
those of Germany, Albert Durer and Holbein ;—in those of the 
Netherlands, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Van Dyck ;—in those 
of France, Poussin, Le Brun, Le Sueur, and Rigaud. Amongst 
the foreign engravers, the works of Raimondi, Hollar, Crispin 
de Pas, Goltzius, Bloemart, and Romain de Hogue; among the 
French, those of Callot, Mellan, Silvestre, Nanteuil, Picart, 
Le Clerc, Edelinck, Audran, Le Bas, Wille, Moreau, and Du- 
plessis Bertaux. In natural history there are many plates of 
birds and plants, beautifully coloured, such as the pigeons of 
Madame Knip, the birds of paradise of Levaillant, the flowers 
of Prevost, the liliaceae and roses of Redoute. The portraits, 
to the number of 90,000, are divided in each country according 
to the rank or profession of the individuals, and are classed in 
chronological or alphabetical order. The series of the costumes 
of various countries and different ages cannot be viewed with¬ 
out interest. The history of France fills 85 portfolios up to 
17 89, and 50 more have been added since that time ; when com¬ 
pletely classified, it will form a collection of 150 volumes. The 
Reading-Room for printed works occupies the southern side 
of the court, and forms a large square, 36 metres each way. 
Its roofing is of iron, supported by 16 cast-iron pillars con¬ 
nected by arches, which divide the room into three parts. 
The whole of this iron net work is extremely light and taste¬ 
fully designed, forming nine cupolas roofed with glass. The 
decorative part is all executed in carmine, white, gray,' and 
gold. There are 14 tables for readers, with hot-air pipes 
under them. The walls are lined with book-cases, and three 
tiers of galleries run all round. This room is exclusively 
devoted to permanent readers ; for the casual public there is 
another saloon, which is entered at No. 3, rue Colbert. The 
visitors provide themselves with pens and paper. No eonver- 



hlBLlOTHEQUE IMPERIALS. 227 

sation is permitted. The student writes his name and ad¬ 
dress on a printed paper ; he then applies to the libra¬ 
rians in the centre of the hall for another paper, on which 
he writes his name and address as before, and the title of the 
book he wants. With this paper he returns to the librarians, 
who refer him to the proper official. On receiving the book, 
he must get the title written on the first paper by another 
clerk, and not until then can he enjoy his book, on returning 
which, he must get the first paper signed by the clerk who 
wrote the title upon it. Literary persons well recommended 
can have books out of the library ; foreigners can also obtain 
this favour, but only by an official application from their 
ambassador. 

The reading-room is open to students from 10 to 4 daily, 
holidays excepted. It is closed to the public for a fortnight at 
Easter, that being the only vacation allowed during the 
whole year, except common holidays. During the summer¬ 
time the functionaries get a month’s holidays by private 
agreements among themselves. The 

Cabinet of Medals and Antiques is now transferred to 
the new buildings, and is provisionally accessible by the first 
door from the corner of the rue Richelieu. (1) To be ad¬ 
mitted the visitor must ring the bell, and on entering the 
vestibule will find to his left the Chamber of the Kings of 
Karnac, a monument transported hither from Thebes, and 
consisting of a series of Egyptian bas-reliefs. Fronting the 
entrance, he will see the celebrated Zodiac of Denderah, and 
under it the porphyry bath in which Clovis was baptized, 
Ascending the staircase, the walls of which are studded with 
old Greek and Roman inscriptions, the visitor, on ringing 
another bell on the tirst floor, is ushered into the Cabinet, 
comprising two rooms: the one to the right, called Sulle de 
Luynes, contains the magnificent collection presented to the 
Imperial Library by the late Due de Luynes. It consists of a 
series of Greek and Etruscan vases, adorned with pictures, 
Greek armour and various utensils, bronze statuettes, and a 
valuable collection of medals and signet-rings, the whole 
valued at 1,400,000 fr The room to the left, lit by seven 
windows, contains the old collection, which is considered one 
of the richest in Europe. In 17 89, all the antiques in 
the treasuries of the Sainte Chapelle and Abbey of St. Denis 
were added to this cabinet; it also includes the superb col¬ 
lection of the Comte de Cavlus, and 90 antique bronzes and 
terra-cottas bequeathed by the late Vicomte de Janze. Among 

(2) Visible on Tuesdays and Fridays, with tickets to be ob¬ 
tained at the Secretary’s office. 


228 FOURTH WALK. 

the most remarkable relics here preserved there are two large 
carved silver discs ; the lesser one, found in the Rhone near 
Avignon, is improperly called the shield of Scipio ; the larger, 
found in the Dauphine, is called the shield of Hannibal; there 
is also a large oval black marble carved with cuneiform cha¬ 
racters, besides a vast number of cameos, seals, intaglios, 
abraxas, talismans, and oriental inscriptions Some of the 
glass stands contain various curious objects found in the tomb 
of Childeric, and a large cameo representing the Apotheosis of 
Augustus ; two Etruscan vases, found at Agylla, and presented 
by Prince Torlonia to Louis Philippe. Among the modern 
busts which adorn this room, the most conspicuous are those 
of Napoleon III., by Pollet, and of the Abbe Barthelemy, by 
Houdon. It is to be hoped that the reconstruction of this 
edifice will not entail the destruction of the valuable frescoes 
by Vanloo, Natoire, and Boucher, which adorn the walls of 
the principal room, in which this collection was formerly 
arranged. One of these frescoes represents Louis XY. in the 
character of Apollo. (1) A catalogue of this valuable cabinet 
has been published. 

Continuing along the rue de Richelieu, which here skirts 
the Palais Royal, already mentioned, the stranger will per¬ 
ceive the elegant 

Fontaine Moliere —at the corner of the street of that name. 
This fine monument was erected by public subscription to the 
memory of the immortal Moliere, the greatest comic writer that 
France ever produced. It consists of a niche with two detached 
Corinthian columns on each side, surmounted by a semicircular 
pediment, ornamented with sculpture and dramatic attributes. 
A statue of Moliere, in bronze, is placed in the niche on a 
semicircular pedestal, in a sitting posture, and in the attitude 
of meditation. On each side of the statue, and in front of the 
columns, are allegorical figures with extended wings, repre¬ 
senting, one the humorous, and the other the serious, character 
of his plays, and in the act of raising up their eyes towards him. 
They each bear a scroll, on which are inscribed in chronological 
order all the pieces written by Moliere. The basement is richly 

( 1 ) It is worthy of observation that, during the pillage of the 
revolutions, this Library, notwithstanding its valuable collec¬ 
tion of gems, medals, coins, &c., was always respected; but 
the thieves of Paris were less scrupulous, and on Nov. 5, 1831, 
the numismatic department was entered by night by two convicts 
named Fossard and Drouillet, and plundered of a vast quantity 
of valuable coins and medals. A portion of them were 
brought to light again in 1857 , through the accidental arrest of 
a notorious gang of thieves. 



PLACE DES VICTOIRES. 229 

sculptured, and at its foot is a semi-octagonal basin to receive 
the water, which issues from three lions’ heads. The in¬ 
scriptions are: A Moliere. Ned Paris, le 15 Janvier 1622, 
etmort d Paris le 17 Fevrier 1673, with the year 1844 over 
the niche. The monument is 50 feet high, by 20 wide, and 
is in the style of the time of Louis XIV. It cost 452,000 fr. (1) 
Nearly opposite. No. 34, stands the house in which Moliere 
died, bearing the inscription : Moliere est mort dans cette 
maison, le 17 fevrier 1673 , a Vdge de 51 ans. 


FIFTH YfALK. 

Commencing this walk, which extends over part of the 2d, 
9th and 10th arrondissements, by the rue Vivienne, we find 
the fine Passages Vivienne and Colbert, which formed part of 
the hotel and gardens of “ the great Colbert,” and lead 
through the rue Neuve des Petits Champs to the 

Place des Victoires, —a circular space, 240 feet in diame¬ 
ter, formed in 1685, by order of the Duke de La Feuillade, and 
designed by Mansard. The architecture consists of Ionic pi¬ 
lasters, upon an arcaded basement. In the centre was a gilt 
pedestrian statue of Louis XIV., in his coronation robes, crowned 
by Victory, and treading a Cerberus beneath his feet; at the 
corners of the pedestal, four bronze figures of enslaved nations 
represented the power of the monarch. In 17 90, these figures 
were removed, and are nowin the Louvre, with the bronze bas- 
reliefs of the pedestal. The statue was destroyed on Aug. 10, 
1792, and the place called Place des Victoires Nationales. A 
colossal bronze statue of Gen. Desaix was erected here in 1806, 
but was taken down in 1814, and melted to form the statue of 
Henry IV., now on the Pont Neuf. The present splendid 
equestrian statue of Louis XIV., by Bosio, weighing 16,000 lb., 
was inaugurated Aug. 25, 1822. The monarch is habited as a 
Roman Emperor, though with the peruke of his own time, and 
crowned with laurel. Two bas-reliefs on the pedestal repre¬ 
sent the passage of the Rhine by Louis XIV. in 1672, and the 
monarch distributing military decorations. 

(C Its inauguration took place on the 1 5th of January, 1811. 
The Prefect of the Seine deposited a box containing a medal 
struck for the occasion, an account of the erection of the monu¬ 
ment, the works of Moliere, and a history of his life. Four ora¬ 
tions were delivered: by the Prefect of the City ; by the Director 
of the Academie Francaise; by one of the comdany cf the Co- 
medie Francaise; and by the President of the Subscription Com 
rr if tee. Deputations from literary societies were also present, 



230 F1FTII WALK. 

Fronting the rue de Catinat is the 

Banque de France, erected by Mansard, for the Duke de la 
Vrilliere, in 1620, and purchased by the Count de Tou¬ 
louse, a natural son of Louis XIV., in 1713. At the 
time of the revolution it was occupied by the Due de Pen- 
thievre and the Princess de Lamballe, son and grand-daughter 
of the Count de Toulouse. The national printing-office was 
afterwards established in it, until it was appropriated to its 
present use in 1812. Its spacious apartments were formerly 
gorgeously decorated, and the ceiling of the Galerie Doree still 
displays some beautiful paintings, by Francois Perrier. The 
most remarkable part of the buildings are the cellars where 
all the bullion is kept. They are only accessible by a single 
winding staircase, admitting but one person at a time ; and 
in case of alarm th-y can be inundated, or filled with me¬ 
phitic vapours, so as to suffocate any one attempting to enter 
them. This palace has now been considerably enlarged, on 
the side of the late rue Baillif, now suppressed (see p. 107). 

In the Place des Petits Peres, we find the 

Eglise des Petits Peres, or de Notre Dame des Victoires. 
—This church, erected in 1056, after the designs of P. Lemuet, 
stands on the site of one dedicated by Louis XIII. to Notre 
Dame des Victoires, in commemoration of his victories, and the 
capture of La Rochelle, and served as the chapel to a com¬ 
munity of bare-footed Augustin monks. (1) The form of the 
edifice is a Roman cross; its length is 133 feet, its breadth 33, 
and its height 56. The portal, built in 17 39 by Cartaud, is 
Ionic and Corinthian ; the interior is Ionic. The chief works 
of art in this church are seven large pictures by Vanloo in the 
choir, the central one representing Louis XIII. and Richelieu 
thanking the Virgin for the fall of La Rochelle, and the six 
remaining ones illustrating the principal passages in the life 
of St. Augustin, viz., to the spectator’s right, his baptism, or- 
dination, and death ; and on the opposite side his preaching, 
his disputation with the Donatists, and the removal of his 
relics. The other remarkable paintings are a Presentation of 
the Virgin in the Temple ; the Immaculate Conception, by 
Lafontaine, an Assumption, by Lavergne, and a Mater Dolo¬ 
rosa, by Lafon. In the third chapel after the transept is the 
monument of the celebrated composer Lully; under the soffit 
of the door leading to it are Latin distiches in his honour. In 

(l) This community was called “ Petits Pitres,” because two 
of the most zealous for the establishment of their order in Pa¬ 
ris, who were men of small stature, being introduced into the 
antechamber of Henry IV., the king said, “ Qui sont ces petil$ 
p&res-la?” from which time they retained the name. 

V ’ . ... ' 



HOTEL DU TBIBRE. 231 

the first chapel to the right there is a colossal statue of St. 
Peter executed in bronze. All the piers of the nave are covered 
with votive tablets of white marble, of uniform size. During 
the revolution of 17 89 this church was used as the Exchange. 

The Rue Neuve de la Banque, a street opened in 184 7, form¬ 
ing a communication between the Exchange and the Bank of 
France, contains, at No. 8, the new Maine of the 2d arrondisse- 
ment, erected on the site of the Convent des Petits Peres. Adjoin¬ 
ing are the new barracks of the Garde de Paris, remarkable 
for their castellated design. Over the entrances there are 
four statues, representing Force, Prudence, Vigilance, and 
Public Order. The ground-floor is loop-holed. Opposite is the 
Hotel du Timbre or Stamp-Office, erected at a cost of 
1,298,000 fr.—In the tympan of the pediment of the arched 
entrance there is an escutcheon surmounted by the Gallic cock, 
flanked by the fasces of the Bepublic, and by two lions cou- 
chant, by Jacquemard. Below are two medallions by Ou- 
dine, representing Law and Security, and between them the 
inscription : Timbre Imperial. The southern building con¬ 
tains the offices of the Direction cles Domaines ; the northern 
those of the Direction de VEnregistrement . 

In the rue Notre Dame des Victoires, No. 28, is the immense 
establishment of the Messageries /mperiales, communicating 
with rue Montmartre, where, at No. 14 4, we see the 

Marciie St. Joseph, built in 1813 and 1814. At No. l7Gisthe 
Hotel d’Uzes, built by Ledoux, the property of M. Delesscrt. 
The entrance is Doric, and adorned with trophies. 

A sharp conflict occurred on Feb. 24th, 1848, at the entrance 
of rue du Faubourg Montmartre, between the people and Garde 
Municipale. At No. 27, boulevard Poissonniere, is the Bazar 
de VIndustrie, with an arched ceiling, painted in compartments 
by Fossey, Papin and Guersant, with portraits of Jefferson, 
Fulton, Lavoisier, Poussin, Vaucanson, &c. The central com¬ 
partment represents France protecting the Arts and Manufac¬ 
tures. Near this, at No. 23, is 

Hotel he Montiiolon, a building of the Ionic order, now 
occupied by an upholsterer. At No. 14 is the Maison du Pont 
de Fer, with an iron bridge connecting the back buildings with 
the front and boulevard. It is composed of shops, warehouses, 
and merchants’ counting-houses. 

At No. 15, rue du Faubourg Poissonniere, we find the 
Conservatoire Imperial de Musique (seep. loo).—The 
entrance is Ionic, and surmounted by statues of the Muses of 
Tragedy and Music, and those of Sappho and Orpheus. In the 
court is a small and very pretty Theatre, denominated Salle des 
Concerts, sometimes used for theatrical representations^ This 


232 FIFTH WALK. 

establishment possesses a valuable Collection of musical in¬ 
struments, bought in 1861 of the late M. Clapisson, an 
eminent composer. Its conservator is now M. Berlioz. 
Some are interesting. There is a harpsichord, with two key¬ 
boards, bearing date 1612, the work of several artists and 
different periods. On the front is a painting by Teniers, and 
the inside is from the pencil of Paul Bailie. Also several very 
valuable spinnets, particularly an Italian one of the time of 
Louis XIV., with ornaments in engraved amber, and garlands 
of flowers and Cupids by Poussin. There is another of the 
time of Francis I., in ebony, richly inlaid with ivory, and 
bearing the inscription— Francisci di Portalopis Veronen. Opus, 
1523 ; likewise, one of the 16th century, in marquetry, 
having the corners of the key-board ornamented with carya¬ 
tides carved in boxwood with exquisite fineness ; the flute on 
which King Frederick II. of Prussia used to play, and likewise 
several harps, one of which, of the time of Louis XVI., be¬ 
longed to the Princess de Lamballe, and bears her name in the 
inside ; also, a lyre, painted by Prudhon, which belonged to 
Garat, and bears his initials ; a portable organ constructed in 
China, and presented in 1858 to the Prince Imperial; a spinnet 
by Hon Buker, dated 1590, in a beautiful lacquer case; a 
harpsichord made for Queen Marie-Antoinette, by Pascal 
Taskin, in 1790, several theorbos, in ebony and ivory, See. 
This collection is visible on Thursdays from 12 to 4. 

In the adjoining rue Ste Cecile is the church of 

Saint Eugene, designed by M. Boileau. The front is 
Gothic, occupying a breadth of 88 feet; the height is 82 feet, 
and the length 131 feet. The interior consists of a nave separated 
from the aisles by rows of six slender columns, supporting the 
groins of the roof, while spacious galleries, accessible by wind¬ 
ing staircases at each end, run along the aisles. All the co¬ 
lumns, groinings, and arches, are of iron, painted and gilt in 
the Byzantine style. The apsis, where the high altar stands, i£ 
pierced with three large tri-composed windows, with subjects exe¬ 
cuted in stained glass, representing : 1. The Holy Supper ; 2. The 
Ascension; 3. Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane. Flanking 
the apsis are lateral chapels, facing the aisles, the windows 
represent, each in six compartments, in that to the right: 
Passages from the life of St. Eugene ; in that to the left: Pas¬ 
sages from the life of the Virgin, by Ledoux. The subjects of 
the 14 lateral windows, best viewed from the galleries, com¬ 
prise the chief incidents of our Saviour’s life (1) in stained 

(1) Left gallery on entering- l. The Holy Family; 2 . Simeon 
blessing the infant Jesus; 3, The Adoration of the Magi; 4 . An 



BOULEVARD DE MAGENTA. 233 

glass. Those on the ground-floor, by Seguin, form the series 
of the Via Crucis. 

The rue du Faubourg Poissonniere meets, close to the in¬ 
fantry barracks at No. 82, the new 

Rue Lafayette, one of the longest thoroughfares of Paris, 
and now continued to the new Opera-house (see p. 213). 
Following it to our left, we arrive at the 

Square Montiiolon, a new public garden, covering a space 
of 4,307 square metres, and tastefully arranged with a grotto, 
a cascade, and gravel-walks between beds of flowers and or¬ 
namental shrubs. Three marble groups of children, by 
Mme. Claude Vignon, will attract attention. 

A few steps further on we find the Place Cadet, where a 
coffee-house commemorates by its name “ Aux Porchcrons,” a 
favourite place of resort of the lower orders in the last century. 

At No. 23, rue Lamartine, there is a synagogue of the Por¬ 
tuguese rite. The interior is plain. 

In rue Rochechouart, (1) corner of rue Petrelle, there is a 
spacious building, called Cite Napoleon , originally built for 
workmen ; but the regulations of this establishment not being 
to their taste, it was subsequently let out to different occu¬ 
pants of all ranks (2). 

In the Avenue Trudaioe, now one of the finest in Paris, 
is the new 

Ecole Commerciale, under the superintendance of the 
Chamber of Commerce. It is a building of simple but elegant 
design, fronted by a spacious court (see p. 100). 

>" The rue de Dunkerque, opposite, leads to the Place du Nord, 
intersected by the 

Roulevard de Magenta, a new thoroughfare, which we 
shall describe at a more favourable spot. 

Angel ministering to Jesus ; 5 . Jesus aiding Joseph in his craft; 
6. Jesus disputing in the Temple ; 7. St.John the Baptist preach¬ 
ing. In the opposite gallery: 8. Christ delivering the Keys to 
Pete”; 9. Christ calling Children around him; io. The Adul- 
tress; li. Christ healing the Blind ; 12 . Christ conversing with 
the Woman of Samaria; 13. Christ preaching on the Mount; 
and 14 . Christ at the Feast of Cana. 

(1) Where the barri&re of this name stood, a murderous combat 
took place on June 25, 1848. The insurgents had erected three 
formidable barricades, outside the octroi wall, which they had 
pierced with loop-holes. The National Guards of Rouen, who 
had come to the succour of Paris, took this stronghold after an 
obstinate struggle. 

(2) Houses for workmen are building at La Cbapelle, the 
Batignolles, Faubourg St. Antoine, Grenelle, and near the 
Avenues Lowendal and S6gur. See also pp, 45 n, 280 , 546, 581, 


234 FIFTH WALK. 

Turning into the rue St. Vincent de Paule to the left, we 
perceive the 

Hopital Lariboisiere, begun under Louis Philippe, and 
named after Mme. Elisa Roy, Comtesse de Lariboisiere, who 
at her death left 2 , 900,000 fr. for the erection of this hos¬ 
pital, which, however, has cost 10,445,000 fr. The plan of this 
vast and fine edifice, which covers a space of 51,873 metres, is 
rectangular. A tasteful colonnade fronts a spacious court, 
enclosed by eight uniform pavilions separated from one ano¬ 
ther by smaller courts and gardens. Each pavilion has two 
stories besides the ground floor, and fifteen windows in front. 
The offices and lodgings of the officials occupy the two first 
pavilions; the others contain the sick-wards, dispensary, 
bathing establishment, and laundry. The chapel, which 
is Doric and Ionic, is at the end of the court, facing the entrance. 
It contains a splendid monument to the Countess, by Maroc- 
chetti. A sarcophagus of black marble is surmounted by a 
group, composed of an angel supporting a dying man and a 
distressed orphan. The monument is flanked by figures repre¬ 
senting Maternal Solicitude, and the Repose of Old Age. An 
arched portico runs all round the court. It was opened in 
1853, and contains 612 beds. Admission on Thursdays and 
Sundays from 1 to 3. Architect, M. Gauthier (see p. 139.) 

At the opposite end of the same street stands the church of 

St. Vincent de Paule, which has its front and principal 
entrance facing the place Lafayette. This structure, the firststone 
of which was laid in 1824, was inaugurated on Oct. 27, 1844. 

Exterior. — A broad flight of steps, flanked by graceful 
elliptical carriage-ways, gives access to the building, which 
forms a parallelogram externally 243 feet by 108, and 
internally 198 feet by 102. Two lofty square towers, with 
Corinthian pilasters at the angles, rise from each side of a 
beautiful Ionic portico, crowned with a triangular pediment, 
with double ranges of fluted columns. In the field of the pe¬ 
diment is sculptured the figure of the patron saint, with Cha¬ 
rity and Religion by his side, and sisters of Charity kneeling 
before him, while compassionate females afford nourishment to 
foundlings. The attic above has statues of the four Evangelists, 
by MM. Valois, Foyatier, and Rruau. Statues of St. Paul and 
St.John the Baptist are seen in the niches of the towers, each of 
which has a dial-plate, one for the hours, and one for the day 
of the month. The bronze gates of the principal entrance 
represent in different compartments Christ and the apostles. 

Interior. Over the principal entrance, the cornice and 
jambs of which are profusely sculptured and gilt, the visitor 
will observe the splendid organ, by M. Cavallier, placed 


NORTHERN RAILWAY. 235 

therein 18 52, and a circular window, representing in stained 
glass St. Vincent, de Paule surrounded by the Sisters of 
Charity. The body of the church is divided, by four eustyle 
rows of eleven lomc columns each, into a nave and four aisles; 
the side aisles are each separated by richly-gilt bronze railings 
into four lateral chapels; similar railings line the intervals of 
the columns throughout the church, and divide the nave from 
the semi-circular choir, which is surmounted by a semi-cupola 
pierced with a skylight, and supported by fourteen Ionic co¬ 
lumns. An arch CO feet in height, richly sculptured on either 
surface, gives access to it from the nave. The stalls of the 
choir are richly carved in oak with figures of saints, and the 
same taste is observable in the decorations of the pulpit andi 
other wooden furniture of the church. Sixteen gilt candelabra 
of exquisite workmanship are placed along the stalls, and four 
colossal ones with foliaged stems stand before the high altar,, 
which consists of an arch and pediment resting upon six clus¬ 
tered and richly foliaged columns. The altar-piece is a Crucifix 
of bronze, and the table of the altar is adorned with a bas-relief 
of the Last Supper. Behind the choir is the Lady Chapel, with 
a beautiful image of the Virgin and Saviour on stained glass in 
the window. The lateral chapels also have stained windows, 
severally representing, in the aisle to the right, St. Francis de 
Sales, St. Elizabeth, St. Martin, and the Baptism of Christ; in 
that to the left, the Saviour, St. Denis, Ste. Clotilde, and St. 
Charles Borromeo. The chapels are covered with bays of 
roofing, painted and gilt; and in keeping with these is the roof 
of the nave, supported by eleven plain triangular trusses, and 
resting over the gallery of the nave, fronted by Corinthian 
columns. The frieze is adorned with portraits of canonized 
pontiffs; and groups of apostles, prophets, martyrs, fathers 
of the Church, and holy women, painted by Flandrin. The 
semi-cupola of the choir, painted by Picot, represents the 
Saviour, surrounded by Angels, with St. Vincent de Paule 
at his feet. These works of art have cost the City 256,300fr. 
Architects, MM. Lcpere and Hittorf. 

The Place Lafayette, in front of this was the scene of a 
bloody conflict in June 1848. Following the immense Rue 
Lafayette (see p. 218) eastwards, we see, facing the Boule¬ 
vard Dcnain, the new and magnificent front of the 

Northern Railway Terminus, leading to England and 
Belgium. The facade, 180 metres in length, is composed of 
two lofty corner-pavilions of Ionic design, connected by two- 
storied Doric galleries with the main central pavilion, 38 metres 
in height, and consisting of a lofty central arch and two 
small lateral ones, crowned with two raking cornices forming 


FIFTH WALK. 


236 

a gable. Doric colonnades connect the piers of the arches. 
Twenty-three statues adorn this front; the principal are : 
Paris, by Cavelier, occupying the topmost point; then Brus¬ 
sels and St. Petersburg, by Joulfroy ; Amsterdam, by Gumery ; 
Francfort, by Thomas ; London and Vienna, by Jaley ; Berlin, 
by Peraud, and Cologne, by Moreau. The other statues, 
by various eminent artists, represent Amiens, Lille, Beauvais, 
Cambray, St. Quentin, Boulogne, Compiegne, Bouen, Arras, 
Laon, Calais, Valenciennes, Dunkirk and Douai. Laterally, 
the departure-gallery to the left, and the arrival-gallery to the 
right, present a series of Tuscan pilasters, ending in pavilions 
similar to the corner ones of the front. The surface covered 
by this splendid terminus measures 40,000 square metres; 
the arrival and departure sheds in the centre are 70 metres in 
breadth, and 230 in length. 

Turning northward into the rue dn Faubourg St. Denis, we 
see at No. 200 the 

Maison Imperiale de Sant£, (see p. 142). The pre¬ 
sent edifice was built in 1858, to replace one further down, 
it occupies 12,000 square metres of ground, and contains 300 
beds, besides baths, gardens, &c. 

At the junction of the rue du Faubourg St. Denis and the 
Boulevard de Magenta, we find, at No. 107, the 

Prison St. Lazare, formerly a convent of the Lazarists, 
or Priests of the Mission, now a prison for female offenders 
(see p. 7 8, Sec.) It was once a place of much cele¬ 
brity, and in remote times the remains of the kings and 
queens of France were conveyed to the convent of St. Lazare 
previous to being transported to St. Denis. To see the interior 
apply by letter to the Prefect of Police. Returning to the 
boulevard by the rue du Faubourg St. Denis, we find the 

Porte St. Denis.— This triumphal arch, which stands 
upon the site of the Porte St. Denis, built under Charles IX., 
was erected by the City of Paris in 1672, after the designs of 
Blondel, to celebrate the rapid victories of Louis XIV., 
It is 72 feet in height; the principal arch is 2 5 feet wide, 
and 43 in height, and in the piers are two arches, 5 
feet in breadth by lo in height. Over the lateral arches 
are pyramids in relief rising to the entablature, and sur¬ 
mounted by globes bearing fleurs-de-lis and crowns. Their 
surfaces are sculptured with military trophies, and on those 
towards the city are colossal allegorical figures of Holland and 
the Rhine. Those towards the faubourg have lions couchant 
and trophies. Above the arch is a bas-relief: Louis XIV. on 
horseback, crossing the Rhine, at Tollhuis; on the frieze* i» 
bronze letters : Ludovico Magno, The has-rclief of the oppo- 


Notre dame de bonne nouvelle. 237 

site side represents the taking of Maestricht. In tiie spandrils 
are figures of Fame. On the north side is the inscription : 

Quod trajeclum ad Mosam XIII. diebus cepit. 

Praefectus et Aldiles poni cc. anno Domini MDCLXXIII/. 

To the south : 

Quod diebus vix sexaginta Rhenum, Wahalim, Mosam, Isalam 
superavit; subegit provincias tres, cepit urbes munitas qua- 
draginla. Praefectus et^Ediles ponicc. anno Domini MDCLXXJI. 

The sculptures are by Michel Anguier. This monument, which 
cost the City of Paris 500,000 fr., and is one of the finest 
works of the age of Louis XIV., is famous for the sanguinary 
contests which took place around it in July 1830, and the first 
conflict which ushered in the insurrection of June 1848. 

Turning westwards into the boulevard, we find the Bazaar 
Bonne Nouvelle, a building for exhibitions and various per¬ 
formances, and further on. the Gymnase Dramatique (see 
Theatres). Crossing the boulevard, we find at the corner of 
the rue de la Lune, the church of 
Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle. —On this spot stood the 
church of St. Barbara, erected in 1551, but destroyed during 
the siege of Paris in the wars of the League, in 1593 ; it was 
rebuilt in 1624. The tower of this second church is still 
standing. The present church, rebuilt in 1825, has a Doric 
pedimented front, and consists of a nave and two aisles sepa¬ 
rated from it by arches resting upon Doric columns. The 
choir is semicircular ; the works of art in this church are : 
1. Chapel facing the left aisle ; the Assumption, and Christ 
blessing little children, by Bourdon. 2d. St. Elizabeth of Hun¬ 
gary praying ; 3d. The Virgin crushing the serpent; her presen¬ 
tation in the Temple. 4th. Lady Chapel: ten frescos by Hesse, re¬ 
presenting the Annunciation, the Visit to St. Elizabeth, king 
David, St. John, St. Joachim, St. Anne, St. Elizabeth, St. Za¬ 
chary, St. John the Baptist, and St. Joseph. 5th. St. Vincent 
de Paule preaching. 6th, The Apotheosis of St. Peter of Alcan¬ 
tara. Over the door of the sacristy is a picture of Queen 
Henrietta and Anne of Austria receiving the cross from an 
angel; and as a counterpart to this, over a similar door in the 
western aisle, is Queen Henrietta, and St. Francis de Sales, 
holding Louis XIII., still in his boyhood, by the hand, and 
pointing to the church of St. Barbara. The other two 
children by their side represent Elizabeth and Christine, sisters 
to Louis XIII. These paintings are interesting as contemporary 
compositions. In the chapels of the western aisle are Ste. 
Genevieve, St. Peter in vinculis , St. Nicholas, and St. Louis 
assisting the wounded. Over the principal entrance is an En¬ 
tombment, and, in a recess facing the western aisle, Ste. Ge- 


^38 sixth walk.. 

nevieve relieving the besieged Parisians, by Schnetz. Around 
the choir are five paintings : the Holy Family, the Adoration 
of the Shepherds, the Annunciation, the Adoration of the Magi, 
and the Flight to Egypt. The frieze, by Pujol, represents 
the Lord adored by the tribes of Israel. 


SIZTH 1UJLZ. 

This walk, comprising the rest of the 1st and 2d arrondisse- 
ments, may commence with 

St. Germain l’Auxerrois, parish church of the Palace of 
the Tuileries.—A church, founded on this spot by Childebert 
in honour of St. Vincent, was sacked and destroyed by the Nor¬ 
mans in 88G. In 998, King Robert rebuilt it, dedicated it to 
St. Germain l’Auxerrois, and added a monastery to it, which 
was subsequently endowed with a chapter and a school. The 
community possessed the privilege of independent jurisdiction 
until 1744, when the chapter was united to that of Notre 
Dame. This parish, as it included the Louvre and the Tuile¬ 
ries, was long considered the royal parish, and the church was 
frequently the object of the munificence of the crown. As 
early as 1356, Etienne Marcel, Prevot des Marchands, stirred 
up his formidable insurrection within its precincts. It was 
from its belfry that the fatal signal was given and responded 
to from the Palais (now de Justice ) for the commencement of 
the massacre on the eve of the Fete of St. Barthelemi, 23d 
August, 157 2 ; the bells of this church tolled during the whole 
of that dreadful night. From a house that stood near its 
cloisters, a shot was fired at the Admiral de Coligny, a short 
time previous to that memorable tragedy. During the revolu¬ 
tion of 17 89, the edifice escaped with little damage. On the 
13th February, 1831, an attempt having been made to cele¬ 
brate in it the anniversary of the death of the Duke de Berri, a 
tumult arose, and everything within the church was destroyed. 
(Seep, 318) The church was then shut up till 1837, when 
it was repaired, and again restored to public worship. 

Exterior. The church is cruciform, with an octagonal 
termination; it has a tower built in 164 9. The principal front, 
to the west, consists of a well-sculptured porch, with five rich 
Gothic arches in front, the three central ones being higher than 
the lateral ones, and crowned with a foliated parapet; the gabled 
roof of the nave, flanked by two irregular turrets, rises behind. 
This porch was erected in 1431-7, by Jean Gausel, at a cost 
of 960 livres ; the church itself dates from the regency of the 













ST. GERMAIN L’aUXERROIS, 239 

Duke of Bedford. The interior of the porch, painted in 
fresco by Mottez, represents the chief teachers of the Christian 
religion. In the central ogive, Christ on the Cross, sur¬ 
rounded with saints. In that to the left, Christ preaching; 
to the right, Christ on the Mount of Olives. Below are Mag¬ 
dalen and the Virgin. The other ogives contain the four Evan¬ 
gelists, the inspiration of the Apost les, and Jesus disputing in the 
Temple. The key-stones of the ceiling display the Last Supper, 
and the Adoration of the Shepherds in bas-relief. On the inner 
surfaces of the pilasters of the porch are figures in fresco of 
Adam before and after the Fall, Eve, Abel, Judas, Herodias, 
Balthazar, and Absalom. All these figures, and the surrounding 
decorations, are in the Byzantine style, being imitations, rather 
too successful, of the decline of art. 

Interior. The interior consists of a nave and choir with 
double aisles. The aisle to the left is said to have been 
built in 15G4 ; the gallery of the communion in 1007, and 
the high altar in 1012. Beginning from the right-hand aisle, 
the works of art contained in this church are as follows: 1st. 
Chapel: Altarpiece, by Amaury Duval—Christ crowning tno 
Virgin surrounded by angels. Next to it, the Assumption. 
Between the groins of the vault, eight angels. Windows: 
containing fifteen saints on stained glass, and busts in the in¬ 
tervals of the tracery. 2d. Right-hand transept: the Descent 
from the Cross, a fresco by Guichard. Windows* the Assump¬ 
tion, Christ disputing in the Temple, See. In the centre of the 
transept there is a holy-water basin in marble, surmounted by 
an exquisitely-sculptured group of three children supporting a 
cross, executed by M. Jouffroy from the design of the donor, 
Mme. de Lamartine. 3d. Choir : Altar-piece, by Truelle : St. 
Ambrose, St. Justin, and St. Jerome. Opposite : St. Germain 
blessing St. Genevieve, by Pajou. Window : Christ between 
Popes Leo and Gregory. 4th. Christ naming St. Peter his suc¬ 
cessor, by Mottez. Window: St. Peter. 5th. Window; Christ 
and his disciples. 6th. Door of the Sacristy, frescos by Mottez ; 
below, St. Martin sharing his mantle with a poor man; above, 
Christ, seated beside the Virgin, returns him his mantle; the 
Virgin is in the act of rewarding the widow who had given 
her mite to the poor. Over the door : St. Germain and Ste. 
uenevieve seated on a throne, receiving from the Curate of the 
parish and a sister of Charity the church of St. Germain l’Au- 
xerrois restored to worship. Beneath is the motto, Divino 
cultui restitution A. D. 1837. 7th. painted by Guichard, 
with passages of St. Landry’s life, encloses the remains of 
that saint, the founder of the Hotel Dieu, and has two monu¬ 
ments in marble of the Chancellor Aligre and his brother. 8th. 


240 SIXTH WALK. 

painted by Guichard, contains an Entombment in bas-relief, 
and a fine marble statue representing an angel in prayer. 
Oth. painted by Couder : the Birth and Death of the Saviour, 
his Assumption, and the Glory of God. Window : chief pas¬ 
sages of his Life. 1 oth. Window: St. Vincent and St. Ger¬ 
main. llth. Scenes from the Life of Ste. Genevieve, by Gi- 
goux. 13th. St. Charles Borromeo visits the plague-stricken 
at Milan; a Last Supper. Window: St. Charles. 14th. St. 
Vincent de Paule affording relief to foundlings, by Truelle. 
15th. Chapel of St. Louis: an ancient monument of Tristan and 
Charles de Rostaing with their statues in marble, in the act of 
prayer; the Assumption of the Virgin, by Degeorges. loth. 
Ste. Clotilde in the window. 17 th. a remarkable ancient alto- 
relievo in oak, representing the Passion in various compart¬ 
ments. Window: a Mater Dolorosa in stained glass. Those 
of the following chapels represent severally St. Mary Mag¬ 
dalen, St. John the Baptist, and St. Michael, between figures 
•of angels. The window facing the left aisle represents Pope 
Gregory VII., Charlemagne, and Pepin. Both the transepts 
have specimens of old stained glass in excellent preservation. 

The ground in front of this church has been planted with 
chesnut trees, while an octagonal Gothic belfry, now possess¬ 
ing a fine set of chimes, consisting of 40 bells, and playing 
two different tunes daily, one at 2 p.m., and the other at 
8 p.m , is situated between the church and the 
Mairie du l er Arrondissement. —This Mairie replaces one 
located in the rue du Chevalier du Guet, now demolished. (1) 
The edifice, designed by M. Hittorff, is built in a mixed style, 
so as to form as much as possible a counterpart to the 
church. Thus, it has a porch closely resembling that of 
the latter, except that the arches are round instead of 
pointed. It has also a gable flanked with two turrets, and, 
like that of the church, adorned with a large rose-window. 
On its site there formerly stood an hotel called the Mai son du 
Doyenne , where Gabrielle d’Estrees, Duchess of Beaufort, and 
Henry IV.’s mistress, died, April 9th, 1599. 

The Fontaine de la Croix du Trahoir, at the corner of 
the rue de l’Arbre Sec, was erected under Francis I., and re¬ 
built by Soufflot in 17 75. Between the windows is a nymph, 
by Jean Goujon. Turning to the left we find 

(i) This street was so called because it contained the hotel of 
the Chevalier du Guet, or chief of the night patrol, instituted as 
early as 595, under Clotaire II., and at that time composed 
of citizens, who undertook the duty by rotation, once in three 
weeks. The Chevalier du Guet was generally a distinguished 
nobleman. Before the house was a large common, adjoining 
the old fortress of the Grand Chatelet. The rue des Fosses St. 






HALLE At! BLE 241 

The Oratoire .—This spacious church was built for th ePrStres 
de VOratoire, in 1021, by Lemercier; but that community hav¬ 
ing been suppressed at the revolution of 17 89, it was used for pub¬ 
lic meetings of the quarter, until 1802, when it was ceded to 
the Protestants of the Confession of Geneva. The frontisDoric 
and Corinthian; the interior Corinthian, with an arched 
ceiling. Service is performed here every Sunday in French. 
The eloquent M. Coquerel is one of the ministers ; the Rev. Mr. 
Spurgeon preached here in Feb. 1860 to a large audience. 

Nearly opposite, at 130, rue St. Honore, there is a branch- 
office of the Messageries Imperiales, communicating with the 
rue de Grenelle near the Passage Vero-Dodat, one of the 
neatest in Paris. 

The rue Mercier leads to the 

Halle au Bl£, a vast circular building, where the whole¬ 
sale dealing in all sorts of grain and flour is carried on. In 
the beginning of the 13th century the Hotel de Nesle was 
erected here by King Jean, who in 1232 made a present 
of it to Louis IX., who in his turn ceded it to his mother. 
Queen Blanche. In 1327 it became the property of Jean 
de Luxembourg, king of Bohemia, and was called H6tel 
de Boh6me. In 1388 it belonged to Louis of Orleans, who, on 
becoming king as Louis XII., converted it into a convent for 
the Filles Penitentes. These were dispossessed of it by a 
Bull from the Pope, to make way for a palace for Catherine de 
Medicis, named the H6tel de la Reine. At her death it was 
sold to Charles de Bourbon, son of the Prince de Conde, and 

Germain l’Auxerrois was built upon the site entrenched by 
the Normans when they besieged Paris in 885. It was here Ad¬ 
miral Coligny was murdered on St. Bartholomew’s Day, 1 572. 
The Hotel Montbazon, which stood at the northern corner of the 
rue du Rouleand rue de Rivoli, then rue de Bethizy, was in after¬ 
times inhabited by the beautiful Duchess de Montbazon, who was 
loved so tenderly by the Abbe de Ranc^, whom she admitted at all 
times to her apartment by a secret staircase. The abbS having 
been absent on a journey of some weeks, returning to Paris, 
hastened at once to the residence of the Duchess. He mounted 
the staircase, opened with a private key the doors that lead to 
her apartment, and, rushing into her salon, found—her head 
placed in a dish on the table, and several surgeons busily en¬ 
gaged in embalming her body. The shocking spectacle had 
such an elfect upon him that he shut himself up for the 
rest of his days in the convent of La Trappe. The same house 
was inhabited, in 1 792, by the Marquis de llurugues, the club- 
bist and companion of Th6roigne de Mthicourt. The Hotel de 
Ponthieu (now demolished) in the rue des Fosses St. Germain, 
was the birth-place (in mo) of Sophie Arnould, the witty ac¬ 
tress; and in 1 747 the painter Vanloo inhabited the same rooms. 

16 





SIXTH WALK. 


242 

called the Hdtel de Soissons, destroyed in 174 8. The 
present Halle was built by Le Camus de Mesieres in 17 67. 
It is 126 feet in diameter, and its remarkable hemispherical 
roof, constructed by Brunet, and resting on concentric circles 
of iron, covered with copper, has a round skylight 31 feet in 
diameter. An arcade of twenty-five arches passes round the 
inner area; behind this arcade, under the double-vaulted roofs 
supporting spacious galleries overhead, are piled the sacks 
of flour ; the centre contains sacks of grain. There are 
here forty offices of flour and meal factors. The whole 
can hold 30,000 sacks, but the average quantity is much 
less. Two curious double staircases lead to the granaries 
above, which are worth visiting to obtain a just idea 
of the vastness of the place. The visitor, by placing himself 
immediately under the centre of the skylight over the middle 
area, and speaking loudly, will find a remarkable echo in the 
building. 

On the southern side of the exterior there is a Doric 
column erected in 1572, by the famous Jean Bullant, for Ca¬ 
therine deMedicis, which is the only relic of the Hotel de Sois¬ 
sons. It is 95 feet in height, and was built for astrological 
purposes; it contains a winding staircase, the lower part of 
which leads to a small reservoir, belonging to the Fontaine de 
la Croix du Trahoir; (see p. 240.) the upper part is accessible by 
the Halle au Ble, but is uninteresting. An ingenious semi¬ 
circular sun-dial, by Pingre, a canon of Ste. Genevieve, is 
placed on its shaft, and from the pedestal a fountain pours 
forth its waters. 

Turning by the Rue des Vieillcs Etuves into the Rue St. 
Ilonore, where the corner-house to our right, according to 
the registers of St. Eustache, was Moliere’s birthplace, we see 
a large portion of the southern side in a state of transforma¬ 
tion, all the streets leading to the Seine having been consider¬ 
ably widened. Among the houses that have disappeared to 
make room for the Rue Tirechappe there was one of historical 
interest: Henry IY. was assassinated in front of it by 
Ravaillac. The street being exceedingly narrow at that spot, 
the murderer was enabled to reach the Royal person by 
mounting on a spur-stone against the wall. The bust of the 
monarch, and a black marble slab which bore the following 
inscription: 

Henrici Magni recreat praesentia cives 

Quos illi aeterno foedere junxit amor. 

which adorned the front of the house, are now preserved in 
the Municipal Museum (see p. 273), 



Its HALLES. 243 

No. 3, Rue de la Tonnellerie, is a house erected on the site 
of one in which Regnard was born. 

Continuing our walk along the Rue St. Honore, we arrive 
at an elegant square, laid out as a public garden, and com¬ 
prising a space of 2,058 square metres, being part of the site 
of the Marche des Innocents, once the cemetery of the church 
of that name. The accumulation of human remains during 8 or 
9 centuries in this ground had become so serious an evil that, 
in 17 86, they were all transferred to the Catacombs, and, the 
soil being entirely renewed, a market was erected, which has 
now been removed. In the centre of the garden we perceive 
the 

Fontaine des Innocents. —This beautiful fountain, con¬ 
structed by Pierre Lescot in 1551, at the corner of the rue 
aux Fcrs, and sculptured by the celebrated Jean Goujon, who- 
was shot during the massacre of St. Bartholomew, while work¬ 
ing at one of the figures, was removed to its present situation 
in 17 8G. It originally consisted of only three sides ; the fourth,, 
or northern side, was added by Pajou at the time of its removal,. 
Four arches, the piers of which are faced with Corinthian 
pilasters resting on pedestals, and crowned with a sculptured 
frieze and attic, surmounted on each side by a pediment, sup¬ 
port a small dome ; in the midst stands a vase, out of which the 
water falls successively into six elliptical basins arranged 
like stairs, and attached to each of the four sides of the base¬ 
ment, which stands like an islet in the centre of a large cir¬ 
cular basin on a level with the ground. The height is 42 feet. 
The spaces between the pilasters are adorned with figures of 
dancing nymphs surmounted by the inscription— Fontilm 
Nympiiis. —It is a valuable monument of the Renaissance 
des Arts. 

At the western end of this place stood part of a long 
building known by the name of Halle aux Draps, the roof 
of which was destroyed by fire in 1855. It was next used for 
the sale of fruit by auction, but has now been completely 
pulled down. Close to this are the 

New Central Halles, which have caused the dingy sheds 
of the Marche des Innocents to disappear, and let the splendid 
work of Pierre Lescot he seen in all its glory. The ten 
pavilions erected here (1), have up to the present time cost 
25,073,167 fr.; the loss on the operation with regard to the 
previous demolitions is calculated at 68 per cent, of the cost. 
Fach pavilion is 120 feet by 100. Garden-produce, fish, 

(I) One of the new pavilions is now used for the tale of 
poultry, transferred hither from the Quai des Augustins (see 
p. 393). 


244 SIXTH WALK/ 

butter, cheese, fowls, game, and butcher’s meat, are now sold 
here. The last pavilions to the west border on the streets 
encircling the Halle an Ble, the axis of which exactly coincides 
with that of the central street which bisects the Halles. The 
ten existing pavilions are remarkable for lightness of design 
and good ventilation ; their roofs rest upon 300 cast iron co¬ 
lumns, ten metres in height, and connected by dwarf-brick 
walls. The rest of the space up to the arches is closed with 
blinds of ground-glass plates encased at their extremities in 
India rubber, to allow for dilatation. The flooring is partly 
stone flagging and partly asphalt; the roofing is of zinc, 
with large skylights over the carriage ways. The pavilions 
for greens, butter, &c., are fitted up with neat stalls; that 
for fish with marble slabs on cast-iron supports, with abun¬ 
dance of water at command. There are eight electric clocks 
over the principal arches, the apparatus being located in the 
overseer’s lodge of the south-eastern pavilion. The cellars un¬ 
derground are worth seeing, and may be visited for a small 
fee by applying at the overseer’s lodge of the pavilion nearest 
the church of St. Eustache. The vaulting is of brick resting on 
iron groins supported by 430 cast-iron pillars, forming a 
curious perspective. Light is admitted through bulls’ eyes; 
there are wired cages for live poultry ; a stone tank divided 
into compartments by wired partitions, and provided with a 
fountain, for the convenience of the fishmongers, and other 
necessary contrivances for stowing away provisions and keeping 
them fresh. Three parallel lines of tramways extend from 
these cellars to a tunnel under the Boulevard de Sebastopol, 
which communicates with the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. 
By this means provisions are conveyed to the market in carts 
drawn by horses, and by the same conveyance the rubbish 
and sweepings of the markets are carted away, being thrown in 
through grated trap-doors. Architects, MM. Baltard Sc Callet. (1) 

The pavilions are surrounded by broad foot-pavements 
planted with trees. Fish is sold here wiiolesale from 3 to 9 in 
summer, and from 4 to 9 in winter ; other articles from c to 

(l) The total cost of these extensive works is calculated at 12 
millions of francs, over and above the cost of 249 houses pulled 
down to make room for them, which amounted to 27,ooo,ooofr. 
In the pavilions now completed there have been employed 
26,660 cubic metres of concrete, 2,704 tons of iron and cast iron, 
3 , 200,000 bricks, and 32,000 square metres of zinc on the roof. 
When the other pavilion shall be terminated, the total sur¬ 
face of the halles, comprising also the covered streets, will be 
88,000 square metres ; the pavilions alone occupy 40 ,so 9 . The 
dealers pay i fr. per day to the city for fixed stalls, and 30 c. for 
temporary places. 




ST. EUSTACIIE. 245 

1 i summer and from 7 to 11 in winter. The Marche cles Her- 
boristes, for the sale of fresh medicinal herbs, is held on Wed¬ 
nesdays and Saturdays. There is also the Marche an Pain, 
daily supplied by bakers from the environs, who are allowed 
to sell their bread here, on condition of its being cheaper than 
the bread made and sold by the bakers of Paris. (1) This they 
are enabled to do by the difference of the rent and general ex¬ 
penses in the outskirts as compared with that within the walls. (2) 

At the north-west corner of these markets we perceive the 
lower end of the new Rue de Turbigo, and opposite the 
church of 

St. Eustaciie. —This church, begun in 1532, stands on the 
site of a temple of Cybele. The facade, commenced by Mansard 
de Jouyin 17 54, being in the Italian style, harmonises very 
badly with the interior, which is Gothic. Of the two square 
towers designed for it, only one has been built in the Corin¬ 
thian style. A new front, by MM. Baltard and Callet, is now 
in contemplation for this church, which is also to be entirely 
insulated. 

Interior. The church is cruciform, and has a nave and 
choir, with double aisles. The length is 318 feet; breadth at 
the transepts 132 feet; height 90 feet. A triforium gal¬ 
lery with paired arches runs below the large clerestory win¬ 
dows of the nave, many of which are decorated with stained 
glass. The keystones are all beautifully sculptured. Rose 
windows of elaborate tracery adorn the transepts; and all the 
fronts of the chapels have now been decorated in the Byzantine 
style. In the 1st chapel, to the right on entering, is an inscription 
on marble stating that the church was consecrated in 1637 (3). 
The fine organ over the principal entrance, by Ducroquet, has 

(1) Bread is sold in Paris by weight. 

( 2 ) The peasants and gardeners in the neighbourhood of Paris 
arrive at the markets from midnight to 2 a.m., with their fruit 
and vegetables, and from 4 till 8 wholesale dealing is carried 
on. After that hour the retail dealers commence their traffic. 

(3) The following paintings in fresco adorn the chapels; 4 th 
chapel: The Dream of Joseph, by Gourlier; 5th. in the ogives, 
the Father commiserating the Sorrows of the Son, and the Spot¬ 
less Lamb ; on the wall below, the Son commiserating the Sor¬ 
rows of Mankind, all by Magimel; right transept; St. John 
the Evangelist, St. Mark, the Entombment and Resurrection, 
Temperaneeand Justice in medallions,all by Signol; 6th. chapel, 
the Adoration of the Heart of Jesus, and a, Mater Dolorosa, by Lari - 
vi&re; 7 th, the Inspiration of St. Agnes, and her Martyrdom, by 
Vauehelet; 8th. St. Anne devotingher daughter to the service of 
God, and her death, by Lazerges; 9th. some old frescoes, lately 
revived, representing the Fall of the Angels, and St. Genevieve 
interceding for the City of Paris ; loth, the Life and Apotheosis 


246 SIXTH WALK. 

tost 70,000 fr. The high altar is of white marble, beautifully 
sculptured. An elaborately open-worked parapet of marble 
surrounds it, and connects some of the piers of the choir. 
Many distinguished persons were buried here; among them 
Voiture, Vaugelas, Lafosse, Homberg, Marechal de la Feuil- 
lade, Admiral de Tourville, Colbert, and Charles David, the 
architect of the church, who died in 1 050 aged 93. On high 
festivals St. Eustache is thronged bv amateurs of church music. 

The Rues Coquilliere and Jean Jacques Rousseau lead to the 
Hotel des Postes ( General Post Office), rue Jean Jac¬ 
ques Rousseau, (1)—built by the Duke d’Epernon, and 

of St. Andrew, by Pils; lith. (an issue to the Halles) illustra¬ 
tions of the virtue of Charity, by Lehmann; 12 th. (with a stair¬ 
case leading to the chapel of the catechists) Christ disputing in 
the Temple, and blessing little children; flanking the doors, 
St. Catherine and St. Ursula; in the ogives, Religion and Cha¬ 
rity; a medallion with the Virgin, angels, &c. all by Signol; 
13th. the Lady Chapel, inaugurated Aug. 1 5, 1858 ; it is one of 
the most splendid in Paris; the walls, columns, and arches being 
all decorated in the Byzantine style. The three windows are 
adorned with the figures of David, St. John the Evangelist, St. 
Paul, St. Anne, St. Elizabeth, St. Zachary, St. John the Baptist, 
St. Joseph, etc., in stained glass. The three magnificent frescoes 
below, viz., the Virgin and Christ adored by angels; Prayer in 
Adversity, and Happiness after Death, are by Couture; i4tli. 
passages in the life of St. Louis Gonzaga, by Bezard. The centre 
of this chapel is occupied by a beautiful monument to Colbert. 
This celebrated statesman is represented kneeling on a sarco¬ 
phagus of black marble resting upon two plinths of the same 
material, and flanked by two marble statues representing Fide¬ 
lity and Abundance; i5lh. Miracles and Death of St. Peter the 
Exorcist, by Delorme ; 16 th. old frescoes revived, representing : 
the Feast of Cana, Christ preaching, the Penitent Magdalen, the 
Angel announcing the Resurrection; 17th. old frescoes revived: 
the Virgin crushing the Serpent ; her Presentation at the Tem¬ 
ple, and St. John writing the Apocalypse; behind him stands 
the Dragon with seven heads (Rev. xii.); 1 8th. passages in the 
life of St. Genevieve, by Pichon ; ( 9th. passages in the life of St. 
Louis of France, his death, and apotheosis; left transept: Sts. 
Matthew and Luke ; Christ bearing the Cross, and a Crucifixion ; 
Divine Power and Prudence in medallions, all by Signol. 
After the transept, 21 st: passages from the life of St. Eustace, 
by Le Henaff; 22 d. Christ at Emmaus ; the Apotheosis of St. Mo¬ 
nica; and an oil painting, by Descamps ; St. Monica presenting 
St. Augustin to be ordained a priest; 23d: the Presentation of 
the Virgin, the Flight into Egypt, the Carrying of the Cross, and 
the Crucifixion, by Riesener; 24th, Christ delivering the keys 
to Peter; Moses receiving the Tables; Christ healing the Sick, 
and his Baptism, by Marquis; 25lh, Adam and Eve driven from 
Paradise; their labour; the Birth and Crucifixion of Jesus. 

(1) This street was originally called rue Platrifcre, but in 1794 


ST. LEU ET ST. G1LLES. 247 

considerably increased by Barthelemi d’Hervat, comptroller- 
general of the finances, subsequently bore the name of d’Ar- 
mcnonville, till purchased by the government, in 17 57, for the 
General Post Office. The buildings have a handsome front 
in the rue Coq Heron. (For postage, 5cc., see p. 7). 

Turning to the left into the rue Montmartre, we find the 
Passage du Saumon , famous for an insurrectionary fray in 
1832. It leads to the rue Montorgueil, which meets the 
Rue de Turbigo opposite the church of St. Eustache. This 
new street, which reaches to the Boulevard du Temple (see 
p. 255, here encroaches upon ground of historical interest. 
The square feudal tower, now the centre of a square planted 
with trees and shrubs, we see to our left, was built by Jean 
Sans Peur, after the murder of his cousin the Duke of Orleans. 
This tower was an appendage of the Hotel de Bourgogne, the 
most sumptuous mansion of Paris under Charles VI., and 
where at a later period, the Confreres de la Passion (see p. 
459) used to give dramatic representations. 

At No. 182 rue St. Denis (1), is the church of 

St. Leu et St. Gilles. —On this spot a chapel was erected 
in 1236, which, in 1617, became parochial. It was repaired 
in 1320, and in 1611, the choir was rebuilt. Georges Ca- 
doudal, the conspirator under the Consulate, when pursued, 
concealed himself in it for several days. This church is very 
rich in relics; it was the only one in which the priests ven¬ 
tured to perform mass for the repose of the soul of the Princesse 
de Lamballe, on the day of her horrible murder. A few days 
after it was put up to auction as national property, and bought 
for a trifling sum by two Jews, who converted it into a 
warehouse for saltpetre. In 1802, w hen the churches were re- 

the Municipal Body gave it the name of J. J. Bousseau, who 
occupied a small apartment on the fourth story at No. 10 . Its 
primitive name was restored to it in isi6, but it has been 
changed again to that of I. J. Bousseau since 1 830. 

(l) This street is one of the most ancient of Paris. According 
to an old legend, St. Denis marked it out with his footsteps w hile 
walking with his head under his arm to the place where he wished 
to be buried. In 1197 , it reached as far as the Rue Mauconseil, 
and in 1 594 it ended at the ramparts built by Francis I., now the 
boulevards. The Kings of France used to enter Paris on state- 
occasions by the Rue St. Denis, which was long the chief street 
of Paris. The bourgeoisie of this street lias always taken a great 
part in the political troubles of the capital, from the accession of 
Henry IV. down 1o the insurrection of June. At the corner of 
the Rue des Precheurs there is a remnant of mediaeval art, re¬ 
presenting the genealogy of Jesus Christ, in the shape of a tree 
bearing the 12 Kings of Juda and the Virgin, 




248 SIXTH WALK. 

opened for the Catholic religion, they let it for 3000 fr. a-year, 
hut subsequently increased the rent to 10,000 fr., which con¬ 
tinued till 1813, when the City repurchased it for 209,312 fr. 
The front is gabled, and flanked by two square spired towers. 
The interior consists of a nave and choir with aisles. Beneath 
the high altar there is a Doric chapel constructed by the 
Knights of the Holy Sepulchre. In the aisle to the left 
on entering there is the Chapel of the Virgin ; its walls 
are covered with numerous slabs of white marble placed 
there as ex-voto’s, or votive inscriptions, by grateful de¬ 
votees. The paintings on the walls are: Christ healing the 
Blind, by Colson ; an Annunciation, by Quantin; a Visitation, 
by Lecomte; the Adultress, by Delaval, and a fine Madonna 
and Infant of the Italian school. At the door of the sacristy is 
a portrait of St. Francis de Sales, taken on his death-bed, by 
Philippe de Champagne; and above, Christ on the Mount of 
Olives. Next this is St. Charles Borromeo praying, by Dela¬ 
val ; and below, a very ancient bas-relief, in wood, represent¬ 
ing, in 3 compartments, the Kiss of Judas, the Flagellation, and 
the Lord’s Supper. In the right aisle we find : St. Leu healing 
an Infant, by Goyet; a Ste. Genevieve, and an Adoration of the 
Shepherds. St. Leu being considered a healer of the sick, the 
kings of France, on their accession, used to visit this church 
during nine days, to solicit health. A spacious baptismal and 
two other chapels have been added in the right aisle. 

Proceeding northward, we find at No. 277, the Bains St. 
Sauveur, and further on, the 

Entrepot General des Glaces, 313, rue St. Denis.—This 
is a large plate-glass warehouse, which has replaced a royal 
manufactory, suppressed in 1830. It belongs to two 
companies, that of Monterme, and of Quirin and Cirey. (1) 
The glass is cast at St. Gobain and at Cirey, near La Fere, and 
polished at Chauny. It is then brought to Paris to be silvered 
and sold. A glass 20 inches by 12 may be obtained for 
about 8fr., while the largest may cost 10,000 fr. Visitors 
may see the operation of silvering, &c., every day from 9 to 12, 
on applying to the porter, to whom asmall fee should be given. 

(1) The art of manufacturing mirrors was established in 
France in 1634, and, in 1666, Colbert created a royal manufac¬ 
tory in the rue de Reuilly, Previous to that period, the finest 
mirrors came from Venice. The glass employed in forming mir¬ 
rors was blown until 1688 , when a Frenchman, named Thevart, 
discovered the art of castwg it, which process was carried to a 
high degree of perfection in 1688 , by M. Lucas de Nichon ; 
the art of polishing was invented by Riviere Dufresn6. Under 
Louis XVI. the largest glass made wa? 48 inches square. What 
a contrast with those of our days I 


PORTE ST. MARTIN. 249 

The rue du Caire higher up leads westward to the Place and 
Passage du Caire; and the rue des Forges, to the left, 
to the spot once known as the Cour des Miracles, the de¬ 
scription of which will not be readily forgotten by the 
readers of Victor Hugo. Even up to the reign of Louis XIV. 
it was the squalid receptacle of the most abandoned and de¬ 
praved of Paris. The inmates had a slang of their own called 
argot , still used by thieves, and were organized in bands. In 
1667 this nuisance was partially suppressed. The site is now 
a quiet commercial court, to which a glazed passage gives; 
access. Some tradition is generally attached to the singular 
names the older streets of this quarter bear (1). 


SETE1TTH WALK. 

This comprises the rest of the loth, and part of the 4th 
arrondissement. We may commence it with the 

Porte St. Martin. —This triumphal arch was built in 
1674, by Bullet, a pupil of Blondel's. It is 1 4 feet 
wide, by an elevation of 54 feet, including the attic, the 
height of which is 11 feet. It is pierced by three arches ; 
that in the centre is 15 feet wide by 30 in elevation; 
the lateral arches are 8 in breadth by 16 in height. The 
fronts display vermiculated rustics, and the spandrils are 
adorned with bas-reliefs. Those towards the city represent the 
taking of Besancon, and the defeat of the Triple Alliance, 
those towards the faubourg the taking of Limbourg, and the 
defeat of the Germans by Louis XIV. This prince is oddly re¬ 
presented in the character of Hercules, with a large wig on, and 
leaning on a club. Between the consoles of the entablature are 
military designs; in the centre is the sun, which Louis XIV- 
took for his emblem. On the southern attic is the inscription : 

Ludovico Magno Vesontione Sequanisque bis captis, et fractia 
Germanorum, Hispanorum, Bafavorumque exercitibus Praef. et 
jFdiles P. C. C. R. S. H. MDCLXX1V. 

The northern one has the following: 

Ludovico Magno, quod Limburgo capto impotentes hostium 
minas ubique repressit. Praef. et iEdiles P. C. C. ann. R. S. H* 
MDCLXXV. 

Many a bloody encounter took place here in June, 1848. 

A few steps to the east of this, is the Theatre de la Porte St* 
Martin (see Theatres.) 

Proceeding westwards, wc find to our right the 

(l) See History of Paris, 3 vols. Published by Galignani, 



250 SEVENTH WALK. 

Boulevard de Strasbourg, opened in 1853. Several vast 
and brilliant though not select coffee-houses, have sprung up 
here, the most conspicuous of which is the Eldorado, (see p. 
474.) Higher up, to our right, is the church of 

St. Laurent, —built in 1429, and nearly rebuilt in 1595. 
Its front, a mixture of the Doric and Ionic, being out of keeping 
with the rest of the building, which is Gothic, is now in course 
.of reconstruction, whereby the church, while it acquires ad¬ 
ditional length, also contributes to the symmetry of the open 
space before it. In consequence of the works in progress 
.same of the pictures herein mentioned have been provisionally 
removed. A tower with a small pointed turret will be noticed 
on the northern side. The interior is cruciform, with double 
.aisles and a circular choir, behind which is an elliptical Lady 
Chapel. The key-stones of the ribs of the nave and transepts 
are well-sculptured pendant masses of stone. The high altar, 
by Lepautre, is profusely sculptured and decorated with 
Corinthian columns of marble. The works of art in this 
church are, beginning from the left on entering: ist Chapel, St. 
Vincent de Paule ; 2d. Byzantine altar-piece : the Adoration of 
the Heart of Jesus ; above, Jesus, Mary, and Joseph ; opposite, 
Christ commanding the Apostles to spread his word—all by Bre- 
mond. The ceiling represents the four Evangelists, and busts 
of angels in medallions. On one of the gilt kev-stones is the 
figure of St. Lawrence. Transept: St. Lawrence led to martyr¬ 
dom, by Trezel. 3d. St. Vincent de Paule blessing the con¬ 
gregation from the altar. 4th. The Lady Chapel is adorned 
with coupled Ionic pilasters; its cupola, painted in fresco, re¬ 
presents the Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St. Lawrence. 
Windows of the choir, eight sacred subjects representing the 
Martyrdom of Ste. Apolline, that of St. Lawrence, &.c. The 
first ogive to the left represents the four evangelists and their 
emblems, in fresco, by Galimard. Right-hand aisle: 5th. The 
Apotheosis of Ste. Genevieve, by Lancrenon. Transept: St. 
Lawrence seized by the Guards, by Verdier. 6th. The Pre¬ 
sentation in the Temple. 7th. St. Charles Borromeo relieving 
the sick, by Laure, and Christ teaching. 8th. The Baptismal 
Chapel: Christ demanding Baptism, on canvass, by Bremond. 
Mme. Le Gras, who, with St. Vincent de Paule, founded the 
■order of the Sisters of Charity, was buried here. 

Facing the Boulevard de Strasbourg, stands the 

Strasbourg Railway Terminus. —This splendid edifice 
consists of four elegant pavilions, of two stories besides the 
.ground-floor, connected by arcades, thus forming, indepen¬ 
dently of the spacious court in front, an immense rectangle, 
with a facade of 165 feet, and a length of 309. A supplemeu- 




II0P1TAL ST* LOUIS. 251 

tary body, projecting at the back, makes the total length of the 
building 410 feet. The portico connecting the front pavilions 
is surmounted by a balustrade, behind which rises a magni¬ 
ficent gabled arch, surmounted by a statue of Strasbourg, 
and concealing the vaulted iron roof, which covers the arrival 
and departure sheds, measuring 251 feet in breadth by 390 
in length. A spacious propylseum, GO feet by 18, gives access 
to the sheds. The total height of the building to the summit 
of the gable is 48 feet, and tlie total surface occupied by the 
buildings is 558,000 square feet ; of which the covered sheds 
alone take 98,190. The portico in front has 9 arches, on the 
spandrils of which are sculptured the arms of the principal 
towns which the line touches. The general appearance of 
the building is strikingly beautiful (see p. 3). 

By the rue de Strasbourg we enter the rue du Faubourg St. 
Martin, whose wide and commodious foot pavements are 
skirted with cast-iron fountains, representing tritons and dol¬ 
phins. At No. 8, rue des Recollets, there is the new military 
Hdpital St. Martin , and crossing the canal, we find the 

JIopital St. Louis, rue Bichat, No. 40. —An alms-house 
or hospital existed here from very remote times, which was en¬ 
larged by St. Louis The present building, founded by Henry IV. 
in 1602, was erected after the plans of the architect Villefaux. It 
is a fine specimen of the architecture of that time, occupying a 
quadrangle of 3GO yards by 240, with 8 lofty pavilions in the 
centre and angles. A spacious yard and gardens, with all the 
requisite offices, enclosed by a wall and fosse, surround the 
central edifice. Opposite the entrance in the first court is a 
statue of Monlhyon. The wards are 144 feet in length by 24 
in breadth, and are 11 feet high on the ground floor, and from 
20 to 25 on the upper. Adjoining is a small Gothic chapel, 
the first stone of which was laid by Henry IV.; the front is 
gabled, with niches displaying the statues of St. Louis and 
St. Roch. Opposite is a gas apparatus for lighting the es¬ 
tablishment, remarkable for being the first established in Paris. 
Next is a vast wash-house, and a house for the Dames de St. 
Augustin , 25 in number, who attend upon the sick. The hos¬ 
pital, which is now receiving considerable improvements, is 
said to have derived its name from having been originally 
devoted to persons infected with the plague, of which St. Louis 
died at Tunis, in 1270. Strangers are admitted on Thursdays 
and Sundays from 12 to 2 (see p. 140). 

In the opposite street we find the 

Entrepot des Chargements, where goods introduced into 
Paris without paying the octroi duty are deposited by the 
owners, till the duty is paid. In the rue Alibert are the 


252 SEVENTH WALK. 

Entreprise des Pompes Fun^bres (see p. 39n.), and the 
Entrepot des Sels. —About 9, 000,000 lb. of salt issue 
hence for the annual consumption of Paris. Opposite, on the 
southern bank of the canal, are the Docks Napoleon and the 
Entrepot de la Compagnie des Douanes, Place des Ma¬ 
rais.—This establishment, erected in 1834, by a joint-stock 
company, for the reception of goods in bond, consists of a 
spacious area bordering the Canal St. Martin, in which, be¬ 
sides sheds, there are two warehouses 250 feet in length, with 
a covered court between, for stowage. They are four 
stories high, and built of stone, with brick arches. Su¬ 
gar, coffee, foreign wines, drugs, wool, cotton, 8tc., are 
the principal goods stored here; they pay a moderate charge 
for warehouse-room, and if not removed within three years are 
sold to defray the expenses, the surplus being remitted to the 
owners. Adjoining are the clerks’ offices, &c. For admission, 
apply at the bureau, holidays excepted, from 9 to 4. The 
Douane de Paris is in the rue de la Douane, close by. A 
double doorway leads into an arcaded court, with a glazed 
roof, and medallions on which are inscribed the names of 
the principal commercial cities throughout the world. Visitors 
are admitted daily from 12 to 4. 

AtNo. 18, rue de la Douane,wasthe ConseildesPrud’hommes 
(see p. 68). Adjoining it, is the Wauxhall, a public ball-room 
(see p. 478), and the Entrepot des Glaces de Montlucon. 

At No. 36, in the rue des Marais, is 
St. Martin, chapel-of-ease to St. Laurent, built in the By¬ 
zantine style. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, 
without chapels. In the left-hand aisle are Ste. Genevieve en¬ 
couraging the besieged, by Grenier; St. Ireneus, bishop of 
Lyons, receiving the slaves ransomed by his exertions, by 
Beverchon ; St. Lawrence, by Cuny. In the opposite aisle : 
St. Genevieve averting a storm by prayer, by Grenier; St. 
Peter, by Maurin; the Baptism of Christ, by Cuny. 

The rue de Lancry leads to the Boulevard St. Martin, 
where a flower-market is held on Mondays and Thursdays. 
To the right stands the Theatre de TAmbigu , (see p. 468), 
and a few steps to the left, we see the 

Boulevard de Magenta, an immense thoroughfare recently 
opened, and extending from this point to the eastern extremity 
of Montmartre, skirting the ball-rooms of the Chateau-Rouge 
(see p. 479), once the villa of Gabrielle d’Estrees, and which, 
from the cuttings rendered necessary, now stands, as it were, 
on the top of a precipice. 

On the Place du Chateau d’Eau is the 

Caserne du Prince Eugene, occupying a space of 9,630 


THE TEMPLE* 253 

square metres, with a front of 114 metres* It has a central 
and two lateral pavilions, and extends into the Faubourg du 
Temple and rue de la Douane. It is built for 3,600 men. 

The immense building on a line with it to the right, is a 
private concern called Les Magasins Reunis . 

East of this lies the Boulevard du Temple, the northern side 
of which was but lately occupied by several theatres, on the 
spot where it meets the Boulevard du Prince Eugene. On 
the opposite side there are various coffee-houses, a cafe 
chantant (see p. 474), a new bazar, and the Theatre Dejazet. 
Several severe conflicts took place in June, 1848, in the 
Faubourg beyond the Boulevards, which is otherwise uninte¬ 
resting. At No. 42 stands a large house, which has replaced 
a mean and small one, from an upper window of which 
Fieschi discharged his Infernal Machine , on the 28th of July, 
1835, with a design of taking the life of Louis Philippe, while 
passing along the boulevards at the head of his staff, and by 
which Marshal Mortier, Colonel Rieussec, and several other 
persons, were killed, as well as a number wounded. 

By the rue Chariot and rue Forez, we reach the 

Marche du Vieux Linge, a market for old clothes and 
stuffs, shoes, and tools ; and covering an area of 10,920 square 
metres, valued at 3,500,000 fr. It has now been recon¬ 
structed with iron pavilions, on the plan of the new Hailes, 
containing 2,400 places, of 4 square metres each, for the 
dealers. It is 215 metres long by go in breadth. The con¬ 
tractor receives the rents on paying 200,000 fr. a year to 
the city for 50 years, after which the market will become 
the property of the latter. One of the pavilions is called 
Carre de la Rotonde, from a round building which stood on 
its site. The new stalls set up for the dealers are so elegant, 
and the articles offered for sale so cleverly “ renovated,” that 
the visitor will scarcely believe himself to be in an old clothes 
market. It is well worth seeing. 

Adjoining the market there is an elegant square, laid out 
as a garden, and 7,525 square metres in surface. Here stood 
the last remnant of 

TheTEMPLE(l) which formerly contained a large square tower 
flanked with four turrets, built in 1222. In that tower Louis 

(l) The order of Templars, founded at Jerusalem in the lllh 
century, during the Crusades, consisted at first only of six monks, 
and a grand master. They came to Europe from Palestine in 
iris to make proselytes, and in a short time became possessors 
of a vast extent of ground in the Faubourg du Temple, where 
they established the seat of their rule, and exercised for more 
than two centuries a power, the prerogatives and abuses of which 


254 SEVENTH WALK. 

XVI. and his family were imprisoned in 1792, and thence he 
was led to the scaffold. Sir Sidney Smith, Toussaint Louver- 
ture, Moreau, and Pichegru, were also confined there. In 1811 
the tower was demolished. Before the revolution of 17 89 the 
Temple consisted of two distinct parts, viz., the Temple pro¬ 
perly so called, and the palace of the Grand Prior of the Order 
of Malta. The former was private property, and consisted of 
hotels, gardens, and dwellings for tradesmen, artists, and also 
for debtors who took refuge at the Temple to avoid arrest. The 
palace, which was pulled down in 1853, stood on the site of 
the ancient Temple, hut was built about 15GG, by the-grand 
prior, Jacques de Souvre; and the Chevalier d’Orleans, after¬ 
wards invested with that dignity, repaired it in 1721. The Duke 
of Angouleme was the last grand prior of Malta. In 1812, the 
building was repaired and embellished, with the design of 
becoming a residence for the Minister of Worship. At the 
beginning of the Restoration Louis XVIII. disposed of it in 
favour of the Princess de Conde, abbess of Remiremont, who 
placed there a convent and school of Benedictine nuns. The 
events of February, 1848, expelled them from it to make 
room for the staff of the artillery of the National Guard, 
subsequently suppressed. Here the 

Mairie du 3 e Arrondissement, which is to replace that 
of the rue Vendome, is in course of construction. 

Nearly opposite, in the rue du Temple, is 
Ste. Elisabeth, —once the chapel of a convent for nuns 
called the Dames de Ste. Elisabeth r and now dedicated to St. 
Elizabeth of Hungary. It was erected in 1G28. The front con¬ 
sists of a basement story with fluted Doric pilasters, and an upper 
Ionic one supporting a sculptured segmental pediment. The in¬ 
terior consists of a nave with Doric pilasters, and two aisles. 
Beginning from the aisle to the left, the works of art here are, 
1st chapel: an Adoration of the Shepherds; Christ preaching 
to the people, and blessing little children, by Hesse ; Christ 
disputing m the Temple, by Lafon ; 2d. The Virgin praying, 

monarchs were in a measure forced to respect. The Temple was 
such a stronghold that Louis IX., before setting out for the Cru¬ 
sades, had his treasure conveyed there, as did Philippe le Ilardi 
and Philippe le Bel. Their wealth, irregularities, and turbulent 
conduct at length induced Philippe le Bel, in 1312 , to suppress 
the order, putting many of them to the torture on a charge of 
sorcery, and seizing their lands. In 1314 Jacques de Molay, 
and Guy, brother of Bobert dauphin cf Auvergne, two of the 
chiefs of the order, were burned alive on the spot now occu¬ 
pied by the equestrian statue of Henry IV. on the Pont Neuf. 
Part of their wealth was assigned to the brethren of the order 
of St. John of Jerusalem, afterwards called Kivghts of Malta. 


THE SYNAGOGUE. 255 

and the Merit of tending the Sick, by Serrur; a magnificent 
altar-piece by Blondel, representing St. Elizabeth depositing 
her crown at the Saviour’s shrine. In the adjoining 
recess: the kiss of Judas, by Fourau; 3d. The Publican 
and the Pharisee, a fresco, by Gosse. In the aisle behind the 
choir, four frescoes: 1. The seven sacraments of the Catholic 
Church, by Jourdy; 2. The virtue of Charity exemplified, by 
Bezard ; 3. That of Hope, by Bohn ; 4. That of Faith, by Ro¬ 
ger. Behind the high altar is the Lady Chapel, with six stained 
windows, representing sacred subjects, by Mr. Jones, an Eng¬ 
lishman. Here are the Adoration of the Shepherds, and 
the Sacrifice of Abraham. The wainscoting around the choir 
displays, in numerous compartments, the life of Our Saviour 
carved in oak. First recess of the right-hand aisle, flanking: 
the window, King David, and the woman anointing Jesus, by 
Roger; the intrados of the pointed arch is painted witli medal¬ 
lions containing cherubs and other devices. The following: 
recesses display: 1. Ste. Genevieve, by Bezard; 2. A Mater 
Dolorosa, by Bezard ; 3. St. John baptizing Christ, by Perig- 
non. The semi-cupola of the choir has a fine fresco by Alaux,, 
representing the apotheosis of Ste. Elisabeth. 

We now approach the scene of one of those colossal trans¬ 
formations so common in Paris. The Rue de Turbigo, already 
mentioned at the Pointe St. Eustache (see p. 247), has been 
continued across a maze of dark and unwholesome streets to 
the top of the Boulevard. Entering this new street, we 
find, at No. 17, rue du Yertbois, the Ecole Municipale 
Turgot (see p. 100), and opposite, at No. 18, is a door 
leading to 

The Synagogue (German rite), having its principal entrance 
at 15, rue Notre Dame de Nazareth.—This temple was re¬ 
paired in 1852. The interior is decorated in the Moorish 
style ; the galleries for the ladies rest upon cast-iron columns 
supporting six arcades on each side, forming together the num¬ 
ber of the tribes of Israel; the Tabernacle is to the south ; its 
facade, of white marble, is approached by six steps of the 
same material; its interior is semi-circular. Before it is the 
theba, or altar, having on one side two seats for the officiating 
rabbins, and on the other the organ. The seats occupied by 
the ladies of Baron Rothschild’s family are in the first gallery 
to the right, close to the tabernacle. The Great Rabbi is M. 
Isidore. Service on Friday evening and Saturday morning, 
the hour varies according to the time of sunset. 

Continuing our walk along the rue de Turbigo, the rue 
Montgolfier to our right, leads us to 

The Marche St. Martin, a parallelogram of 300 feet by 180 r 


256 SEVENTH WALK. 

erected in 1811 in the enclosure of the abbey of St. Martin des 
Champs. The stalls, nearly 400, are arranged in two large 
buildings. In the centre of the market is a fountain, consisting 
of a basin supported by three allegorical figures in bronze, re¬ 
presenting the genii of hunting, fishing, and agriculture ; and 
opposite to this, a new fountain has been constructed. Near 
the Marche St. Martin is a public promenade planted with trees. 
A bird-market is held here on Sundays. 

The rues Vaucanson and du Vert Bois lead hence into the 
rue St. Martin, on the eastern side of which is the ancient 
abbey of St. Martin des Champs, now transformed into the 

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, rueSt. Martin, No. 292. 
—M. Gregoire, bishop of Blois, was the first who suggested 
the idea of forming a national repository of machines, models, 
■drawings, See., for the improvement of machinery and imple¬ 
ments connected with manufactures, agriculture, and other 
branches of industry. The formation of this establishment was 
■ordained by a conventional decree in 1794, but it acquired 
little importance till 17 98, when the three repositories of ma¬ 
chines existing at the Louvre, (1) the Hotel de Mortagne, rue de 
■Charonne (2), and in the rue de l’Universite (3), were established 
in the buildings of the ancient abbey of St. Martin des Champs, 
and all patentees were directed to deposit their inventions at 
the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, which was authorised to 
have them published. In 1810 , a gratuitous school of arts was 
formed, which, in 1817, was re-organised, and, in 1819 and 
1836, received considerable additions. In 1838, a royal or- 
■donnance established it on its present footing (see p. 95). 
Connected with it are two national schools of arts and trades 
at Chalons and Angers. 

Exterior. —The building comprises part of the abbey and 
church of St. Martin des Champs, built in the 13th century by 
Pierre de Montreuil, the architect of the Sainte Chapelle, and 
now nearly all rebuilt. The church has a chaste Gothic front 
towards the rue St. Martin, with a rose-window, buttresses, 
and a slender octagonal tower. Two large modern wings, 
fronting the rue St. Martin, are connected by an elegant arch¬ 
way, with a triangular pediment, profusely sculptured. The 
entablature towards the street is supported by two carya¬ 
tides, representing Art and Science. The frieze bears 
the words : Agriculture, Commerce, Industrie. Towards 
the court, the inscriptions, commemorate the inauguration of 

fi) These had been presented to the Academy of Sciences by 
M. P. d’Ozambray. 

( 2 ) 500 machines bequeathed to the State by Vaucanson. 

(3) Agricultural implements of all countries. 



CONSERVATOIRE RES ARTS ET METIERS. 557 

the Abbey by Henry I. of France, in 1060 ; the institution of 
the Conservatoire on the 19th Vendemiaire in the year III 
(1794); its installation in 1798, and the erection of the new 
buildings from 18 45 to 1852. The principal court has a 
central Doric pavilion in front, its entrance communicating 
with the principal staircase, and is bounded to the left by a 
wing containing the offices of the Administration ; to the right, 
by the refectory, now the library, also built by Pierre de INlon- 
treuil. It is buttressed, and measures 42 metres by 7 ; its 
windows are worthy of attention. 

Interior. — Ground-floor .—On descending the staircase be¬ 
fore us, we find right and left a series of experimental ploughs, 
and two passages filled with specimens of seeds from every 
quarter of the globe, and fruits and roots beautifully executed, 
in marble, alabaster, and wax. Returning to the staircase, 
we enter the vestibule, remarkable for its being so constructed 
upon acoustic principles, as to convey a whisper diagonally 
from one corner to the opposite one. The hall to our left on 
entering contains weighing machines, together with a collec¬ 
tion of the weights and measures of the principal countries of 
the world. Further on, ascending a few steps, we enter five 
rooms, belonging to the new wing, and containing specimens 
of cast and sheet-iron, native plumbago, ores of copper, Sec. ; 
furnaces and models of iron-works, besides beautiful locksmith’s 
work. Returning to the vestibule, we find the model of the 
scaffolding for the building of the New Opera, and opposite 
another spacious hall, containing a large collection of joiners’ 
implements, beautiful turning-lathes, and curious specimens of 
turners’ work. The adjoining hall, called Salle des Fila¬ 
tures (1) contains looms and spinning-machines. 

We now come to a vestibule, which, to the left, opens into 
a spacious gallery filled with ploughs, harrows, models of 
mills, &c., anatomical pieces of the horse and other domestic 
animals, executed in wax, and a collection of seeds and other 

(i) This gallery has an historical interest, from the fact of 
the 27 representatives of the Mountain assembling here on the 
13 th of June, 1849, when the demonstration against the expe¬ 
dition to Rome was dispersed by General Changarnier in the 
rue de la Paix. When the representatives of the Mountain 
who were assembled at the. time in the Palais Royal, were in¬ 
formed of this, they placed themselves under the. protection 
of the artillerymen of the National Guard, and, escorted by 
them, quitted the Palais Royal and proceeded to the Conserva¬ 
toire des Arts et Metiers, with the intention of overthrowing 
the existing government, and establishing a provisional one. 
They first assembled in the Petit Amphitheatre opposite to the 
Salle des Filatures, but afterwards adjourned to the latter. 

M 


258 ['SEVENTH WALK. 

articles relating to husbandry. The heads of oxen of different 
breeds are fixed to the walls. Some of the heavier machines 
are visible under a shed in the adjoining garden, which is 
not accessible to the public. Returning hence, the same ves 
tibule ushers us into the interior of 

The Church. —It has no aisles ; the roofing consists of tic- 
beams, king-posts, and braces, which, with the rafters, aie 
neatly painted in the Byzantine style like the rest of the in¬ 
terior. There are 8 ogive windows on each side, fitted up 
with stained glass. Above the ogive opposite the principal 
ntrance we see two medallions with figures of Agriculture 
and Manufacture, painted in fresco. This vast hall is now 
called the Dep6t des Modeles, and contains various hydraulic 
machines, such as the hydraulic press, water-mills, Archime¬ 
des’s screw, &c., besides planing and moulding-machines, 
models of iron,works, carts, trucks, etc. To the right, on 
entering, there is a steam-engine, which, during the day, com¬ 
municates motion by means of straps to most of the above- 
mentioned contrivances, while, on the opposite side, a large 
water-tank, 6 feet in breadth, in solid masonry, occupies 
nearly the whole length of the nave, furnishing the water ne¬ 
cessary for the mills, etc. Above this, resting on pilasters 6 
feet in height, is a narrow iron reservoir likewise extending the 
whole length of the nave for the display of the smaller ma¬ 
chines, and the contrivances here exhibited for raising water. 
A lateral staircase leads hence to the 
Upper Story. —This consists of a long gallery, with a 
parallel suite of rooms behind, and other rooms at both ends. 
The main gallery is filled with models of steam and fire-engines, 
machinery for iron-foundries, models of roofing, patterns for 
shawls, a model of the Danube steam-packet, severed amid¬ 
ships to bring the engine-room into view, another of the 90- 
gun ship Le Roi de Rome , a specimen of the sheet-iron used 
in the construction of the Great Eastern, etc. A little way 
down the gallery, we find a room to our left, containing tele¬ 
scopes and other astronomical instruments. Two large pho¬ 
tographs of the moon will be remarked here. At the further 

Their consultations, however, were soon interrupted by the 
arrival of a detachment of soldiers, leaving them no other al¬ 
ternative but flight. Some made their escape through Ihe 
back-doors leading to the Marche, and many, among whom 
Ledru-Rollin, Boichot, and Rattier, through the sixth of the 
eight windows of this gallery (counting from the side of the 
vestibule) which look into the garden. The troops and National 
Guards arrested a few stragglers, who, together with other per¬ 
sons taken up on the following days, were tried before the 
High Court of Justice, convoked for the purpose at Versailles. 



CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. 259 

end of the long gallery we find a series of six rooms, the first 
containing specimens of ornamental tiles, etc. The next four 
contain specimens of large glass bells and cylinders, models of 
lithographic presses, one of the hydraulic machine of Marly 
(see p. 520), pumps, Archimedes’s screw, etc.; a large -dass- 
stand filled with Chinese tools and manufactures, and°a si¬ 
milar one with Tunisian manufactures, and lastly, pottery and 
glass ware. In the 5th we see our earth, accompanied by the 
moon, travelling by clock-work round the sun. Here are 
also the chymical apparatus used by Lavoisier, two clocks in 
the form of globes, and dated 1588, and an automaton 
player on the harpsichord, by Rintzing. This and the 
following room are devoted to optics and acoustics. 

The visitor must now enter the rooms which run parallel to» 
the main gallery, filled with illustrations of the intersections 
of lines and surfaces, bridges, carpentry, compasses, locomo¬ 
tives, pulleys, specimens of stereotype, furnaces, crystalliza¬ 
tions, the model of an Indian pagoda, &c. Two rooms of the 
adjoining wing are filled with instruments of natural philosophy r 
such as air pumps, barometers, a powerful electric machine 
with an immense battery, Sec. The third room of this suite is 
devoted to watchmaking; it contains all the instruments used 
in that profession, besides clocks, chronometers, 6cc. In the • 
centre of the main gallery a door opens upon the magnificent 
double staircase, the principal one, which descends to the ves¬ 
tibule. It is highly gratifying to an Englishman to find the 
names of Maudslay, Watt, Stephenson, Taylor, Edwards, 
Sec., abounding in this museum. A catalogue may be had 
on the spot. Grossing the court, we find to our left, in a nar¬ 
row passage near the principal entrance, the door of the 

Library .—Fitted up in the most tasteful style. It is bisected 
by a line of seven lofty and slender columns, from each of 
which spring eight ribs, expanding along the groins of the vault.. 
To the left is an elegant Gothic recess, with a groined head; a 
projecting balustrade shows that it was formerly used by the 
monks as a pulpit for reading during meals; at present it is 
merely ornamental; a secret staircase within the wall gives 
access to it. The whole interior of the building is painted iu 
the Byzantine style; the capitals and bases of the columns are 
gilt. The floor is boarded in the centre, but bordered with a 
sort cf mosaic of glazed bricks of various colours. The book¬ 
cases and furniture are of oak, and of Gothic design. The 
ogives of the eastern wall, now filled up, contain figures of 
Chemistry, Natural Philosophy, Painting and the Plastic Art, 
in fresco; in the roses above are busts of Art and Science. 

The Grand and Petit Amphiihedtrc , or lecture-rooms, are 




260 SEVENTH WALK. 

in a Doric court adjoining the church. The former is remarkable 
for its elegance, size, and comfort; the benches rise gradually 
from the floor to an elevated gallery ; which is approached 
by a staircase in the passage; there is another entrance to 
the amphitheatre below. This room will contain about 300 
persons. (I) The Petit Amphitheatre has little to recommend it. 
V The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers is open gratui¬ 
tously to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, from 10 to 
4, and on all other days of the week, from 10 to 4, at the 
charge of one franc. The Library contains 20,000 volumes, 
on ^cie ltiflc subjects, and is open to students every day, Mon¬ 
days excepted, from 10 to 3. On Mondays it is open to visi¬ 
tors, with the museums, at the charge of one franc. The 
lectures are all public and gratuitous (see p. 96). A pro¬ 
gramme of the days, See., may be had at the Conservatoire. 

In front of the Conservatoire the visitor will remark the 
elegant square planted with full-grown trees, and covering a 
surface of 4,145 sq. metres. It is surrounded with a balus¬ 
trade of stone from St. Yllie, in the Jura, which takes a fine 
polish ; there are two basins adorned with bronze recumbent 
statues of Trade, Manufactures, the Fine Arts, and Agriculture. 
To the left is the new Theatre de la Gaite (see Theatres). 
Further down in the rue St. Martin is the church of 

St. Nicolas des Champs, —built in the year 1119, and 
enlarged in 1420 ; in 157 6 the choir and the chapels behind 
it, now externally visible in the new rue de Turbigo, were 
constructed. The western front, of 1420, is in the pointed 
style. The western porch is adorned with eight statues of 
saints and angels ; the southern one likewise deserves atten¬ 
tion. The tower is square and buttressed. The interior con¬ 
sists of a gothic nave and choir ; there are besides double 
aisles, lateral chapels, and a demi-transept towards the 
south. Talma was christened, and many distinguished 
persons buried, here ; among them, Budoeus, the restorer 
of Greek literature in France ; the philosopher Gassendi ; 
Henry and Adrien de Valois, historians ; and Mile. 
Scuderi. The high altar is Corinthian ; its altar-piece, by 
Vouet, represents in the lower compartment, the Death of the 
Virgin; and in the upper, her Assumption. Behind the 
high altar is a chapel of the Holy Sacrament, enclosed by the 
altar itself and the apsis. The altar-piece represents the Last 
Supper. Beginning from the right aisle, the works of art in 
the chapels are, 1st chapel: Christ bearing the Cross, by Cou- 

(l) Lectures on recent inventions, specially intended for the 
instruction of workmen, are given here every Sunday; and on 
Thursdays to the pupils of the colleges and lyceums. 


BOULEVARD DE SEBASTOPOL. 261 

tant. 2d. A Deliverance of the Souls from Purgatory, and 
Christ on the Mount of Olives, by Rouget. 4th. Ste. Genevieve, 
and St. Germain giving his blessing to Ste. Genevieve, by 
Jouy. 5th. The Raising of Lazarus, by Souehon, and a painting 
of St. Nicholas. Glh. A Circumcision. 7th. A Holy Family, 
the Virgin being in the act of teaching the Saviour to read. 
On the ceiling are some old frescos, in a very dilapidated 
state. 9th. The Apotheosis of St. Renedict, by Lesueur. 10th. 
St. Martin curing a leper. 11th (the Lady Chapel, the vault of 
which is tastefully groined). The Adoration of the Shepherds, 
and the Repose after the Flight to Egypt, by Caminade. Over 
the altar is a marble statue of the Virgin and Child, by 
Delaistre. On the walls flanking the altar there are the Visi¬ 
tation and the Annunciation, by Jonvaux. Opposite to this 
chapel stands an altar with an altar-piece representing St. 
Charles Rorromeo administering the Sacrament to the plague- 
stricken. 12th. St. Cecilia, by Landelle. 13th. A Descent 
from the Cross. 14th. The Archangel crushing the Demon, and 
Jacob summoned to Egypt by Joseph. 15th. The head of St. 
John the Baptist brought to Herodias. 16th. Three excellent 
old paintings on wood, representing the Passion. 17th. A 
Last Supper, and St. Elizabeth distributing alms. 18th. The 
LastSupper, byQuantin. 19th.St. Stephen attending a sick man. 
20th. St. Louis giving alms. 22d. Christ descending upon earth. 


EIG-HTH WALK. 

This comprises the 4 th arrondissement and a fraction of the 
3d. We will usher it in with the 

Boulevard de Sebastopol, a continuation of the Boule¬ 
vard de Strasbourg, opened throughout in April, 1858, and 
now affording a direct communication between the Strasbourg 
railway terminus and the Seine. Its continuation on the left 
bank is also far advanced. The cost of this boulevard to the 
city is stated at 81,000,000 fr. The section comprised be¬ 
tween the rue Grenetat and Guerin Boisseau, occupies the 
site of the Enclos de la Trinite, thus named after a hospital 
built there in 1202 for the reception of pilgrims. The monks 
of this establishment subsequently let out the largest hall of 
the building to the Confreres de la Passion (see p. 459). In 
1536 the Parliament ordered a portion of the buildings to be 
reserved for patients labouring under contagious diseases, but 
this decree was never enforced, and the establishment was at 
length devoted to the education of poor children. Towards 
the end of the 18th century the hospital was pulled down, 
and houses for the poorer classes were erected on the site. 



262 EIGHTH WALK. 

Lower down is the rue de Turbigo, which now connects the 
Chateau d’Eau (see p. 252) with the Pointe St. Eustache ; and 
further on, is the back entrance to St. Leu and St. Gilles, w ith 
the adjoining presbytery, built in the Gothic style (see p. 247). 

Proceeding down the Boulevard towards the Seine, we see the 

Tower of St. Jacques de laBouciierie, erected in 1508-22. 
—This is the only part remaining of the church of that name, 
which was demolished in 17 89. It was bought by the muni¬ 
cipality, in 1836, for 250,000 fr., and has since cost upwards 
of a million francs for repairs. This magnificent tower was 
formerly surmounted by a spire thirty feet high, and is at pre¬ 
sent one of the purest relics of Gothic architecture extant. It 
is square, with an engaged turret at the north-western angle, 
graceful pointed windows, elaborate tracery, niches with sta¬ 
tues of saints, and a perforated balustrade at the summit 
adorned with the statue of St. John the Baptist and the four 
animals attributed to the Evangelists. To bring the foot of 
this tower to a level with the rue de Rivoli, the soil had to 
be lowered three metres, which brought to light several curi¬ 
ous relics, besides hones, the ground having formerly been 
a churchyard. This interesting structure now occupies the 
centre of an elegant square of 5,7 8 6 sq. metres, laid out as a 
garden, once intersected by the filthiest streets of the me¬ 
tropolis, haunted by vendors of rags and old clothes. 
The basement, which has been added to strengthen the tower, 
as ascended by 14 steps on both sides ; under the arch of the 
ground-floor stands the statue of Pascal, who here performed 
his first experiments to ascertain the weight of the atmosphere. 
A winding staircase in the engaged turret of the north-western 
angle leads to the top, and the trouble of mounting 294 steps 
is amply repaid by the magnificent view of Paris the tower 
affords. To the north we see the splendid rue de Rivoli ex¬ 
tending below our feet in a mathematical line ; we overlook 
the Seine with its islands and bridges, the towers of Notre 
Dame, the Louvre, on one side, and the Hotel de Ville on the 
other, while Vincennes, the Pont Napoleon beyond Bercy, the 
Mont Valerien, and Montmartre, lie far within the horizon. A 
tolerable telescope is at the visitor’s disposal for a small gra¬ 
tuity. The total height is 187 feet; the interior is hollow, 
■and may be seen from a circular aperture above. A small 
fee is paid at the entrance. Adjoining this, is the 
Place du Chatelet. —Here was the site of the Grand 
Chalelet, the court of justice and prison of Paris during the 
middle ages. The tribunal was suppressed at the revolution 
of 17 89, and the building destroyed in 1802. The present 
square presents three sides of 220 feet, and, in the middle, 


CHAMBER OF NOTARIES. 263 

contains a fountain erected in 1808 after the designs of M. 
Bralle, the first monument erected in commemoration of the 
victories of the Republic and the Empire. This fountain was 
situated about 30 yards to the east of the spot it now occu¬ 
pies; in order to bring it into the centre of the new square, it 
was, in March, 1858, removed to its present site, horizontally 
as it stood, and then raised up perpendicularly, for the pur¬ 
pose of building a new basement under it. (1) It now con¬ 
sists of a circular basin 20 feet in diameter, with a pedestal 
and column in the centre, 58 feet in elevation, in the form 
of a palm-tree. Upon the pedestal are four statues: Justice, 
Strength, Prudence, and Vigilance, which join hands and 
encircle the column. The shaft is intersected with bands of 
gilt bronze, inscribed with the names of the principal victories 
of Napoleon. The water issues from four cornucopia} termi¬ 
nating in fishes’ heads and from the mouths of four sphinxes; 
on two sides are eagles encircled by wreaths of laurel. Above 
the capital are heads representing the Winds, supporting a 
globe, on which stands a gilt statue of Victory. 

On either side of this Place, opposite to each other, stand 
two new theatres, replacing those of the Boulevard du Temple 
(see Theatres), viz., the larger one to the west, the Theatre 
duChdtelet ; the other, the Theatre Lyrique. 

The Place du Chatclet is crossed by the Avenue Victoria, 
to be continued to the Louvre. Fronting the Seine we see the 

Chamber of Notaries, an elegant new building, looking 
both into the Boulevard and the rue St. Denis, and having its 
principal entrance on the Place du Chatelet. It is three stories 
high, and of Doric and Ionic design. Over the entrance are 
the following inscriptions: “805, the Statutes of Charlemagne” 
—1270, Edict of Louis IX.”—1539, Ordinance of Francis I.” 
—“ An II. Law of 25 Ventose, Napoleon Bonaparte,”—all in¬ 
teresting dates for the notarial body. Large chesnut trees 
of 50 years’ growth were planted, in 1858, in front of 
this building and around the Fontaine du Palmier, mentioned 
above. The Chamber of Notaries is designed for the sale of 
landed property. It possesses a library, which is not public. 

Near the corner of the Rue dc Rivoli and Rue St. Martin, 
beyond the Tour St. Jacques, is 

St. Merri, originally a small chapel dedicated to St. Pierre- 
des-Bois, near which St. Mederic or St. Merri died in 700. 

(1) The operation was effected By means of a strong scaffolding composed 
of iron and wood, to the upper part of which strong pulleys were attached. 
By means of these the whole mass, weighing 24,000 kilogrammes, was kept 
suspended while the foundations were cleared away, and a platform, provided 
with iron rails, was arranged helow. The column, with the scaffolding 
which surrounded it, was then set in motion hy four capstans turned by 60 
men. The operation lasted 18 minutes. Another scaffolding Was afterwards 
constructed for the purpose of raising it to its new level.* 


264 EIGHTH WALK. 

In 1200, a church, built on its site, took for its patron St. 
Merri, whose relics it contained. The present edifice, begun 
in 1520, and finished in 1612, has now been thoroughly- 
repaired. The western front is a beautiful specimen of the 
florid Gothic. The principal entrance is pointed, and adorned 
with tracery, expanding in rich canopies below, forming 
heads of niches containing the twelve Apostles. To the 
north there is a beautiful octagonal turret, and to the south a 
modern square one. The interior is cruciform, with double 
aisles. The transepts have fine rose windows, and in most 
of the others there are excellent specimens of old stained glass, 
interspersed with modern. The first chapel of the aisle to 
the right on entering, erected in 17 54, contains : St. Charles 
Borromeo during the plague at Milan, by Colson; St. Chry¬ 
sostom’s Vision of the Angels, by Peron; altar-piece, the Sa¬ 
viour at Emmaus. On the piers of the arches are a Holy 
Family, the portrait of St. Vincent de Paule, and St. Bernard 
at the bed-side of a patient, by Roberts ; 2d chapel, a Mater 
Dolorosa, byMignard. Transept: St. Peter praying, by Vien 
(17 84); Christ at the well with the woman of Samaria, by 
Restout, sen. 3d chapel: St. Martin sharing his cloak with 
a poor man, by Burr, and St. Leonard, by Travier; 4th. the 
Assumption, by Coxie ; 5th. St. Germain blessing Ste. Gene¬ 
vieve, by Picot; 6th. St. Francis Xavier preaching to the 
Indians, by Robert (1730), and a Descent from the Cross; 
8th. the Virgin consoling the Afflicted ; 9th. an Annunciation, 
and a Descent from the Cross, by Colin de Vermont; also St. 
Peter preaching, a good painting on wood; 11th. the life of St. 
John the Baptist, the Institution of Confession, the Adoration of 
Saints, and the Holy Spirit descending upon the Apostles, frescoes 
by Lehmann ; 12th. the Life of St. Philomene, by Amaury Du¬ 
val ; 13th. St. Mary of Egypt, by Chasseriau; 14th. the por¬ 
trait of St. Vincent de Paule, and the same saint a slave in Afri¬ 
ca, by Lepaulle; 15th. various passages of the life of Marie de 
l’lncarnation, by Cornu, viz., her reception by St. Francis de 
Sales, her care of the wounded, and her death at Pontoise in 
1618. Flanking the altar, figures in fresco of the Prophet Eli¬ 
jah and St. Theresa. Transept: a large painting of a miracu¬ 
lous discovery of stolen church treasure by a curate of St. 
Merri, by Belle (17 59); the miraculous Release of captives 
at Melun by St. Merri, by Voiet; 16th chapel: a valuable 
painting on wood, of the 14th century ; on the panel of the 
altar-table, Ste. Genevieve as a shepherdess; a wolf fawns 
upon her; 17th. a Descent from the Cross, in marble, by 
Slodtz. On the front piers of the choir are St. Charles Bor¬ 
romeo praying, and the Virgin and Child, by Vanloo (17 53), 


PALAIS DES ARCHIVES IMPERIALES. 265 

This church is remarkable for the obstinate resistance made in 
it and the adjoining streets, in 1832, to Louis Philippe’s troops. 

Proceeding up the rue St. Martin, we find ourselves in a 
quarter which still gives a good idea of what old Paris was. 
To the left is the rue Quincampoix, celebrated in the days of 
the Financier Law as the place where his votaries resorted to 
gamble in his Mississippi shares. Such was the crowd in 
this street, that it had to be closed with gates at both ends, in 
order to admit none but the elect at certain hours. To the 
right is the rue Beaubourg, once rue Transnonain, where a 
bloody conflict occurred between the people and the troops in 
April, 1834. 

This quarter contains some of the most remarkable old 
hotels in Paris : among them we may mention the 

Hotel de St. Aignan, 7 l, rue du Temple, near the corner 
of the rue Rambuteau, a Corinthian edifice, now mutilated, 
built by Le Muet. On its site stood the house where the 
Connetable Anne de Montmorency died of his wounds after 
the battle of St. Denis, Nov. 12, 1567. Henry II. often re¬ 
sided here ; and it was then called the Hotel de Montmorency. 
At the corner of the rue du Chaume and Viclles Ilaudriettes is the 
Fontaine de la Naiade, rebuilt in 1775, and adorned 
with a fine bas-relief of a naiad lying among rushes, by Mignot. 
In rue du Chaume, at No. 12, is the Gothic entrance to the 
Ecole Imperiale des Chartes( seep. 99.) This entrance is 
situated under the spired turrets forming part of what formerly 
was the palace of the Prince de Soubise, and is now the 
Palais des Archives de l’Empire, the entrance of which is 
in the rue de Paradis.—The Hotel de Soubise was built upon 
the site of a mansion belonging to the Connetable de Clisson ; 
and, after passing through the family of the Guises, became the 
property of the Bohans in 1697. The old building extends to a 
great depth, and with its grands et petits appartements, as well 
asthe gardens, constituted the proud residence of a family whose 
motto was, “ Roi ne puis ; Prince ne daigne; Rohan je suis.” 
In the petits appartements is a window looking into the rue du 
Chaume, belonging to the boudoir of a Duchess de Guise, once 
the owner of the palace, from whence it is said her lover pre¬ 
cipitated himself into the street on the approach of the Duke. 
After the revolution of 17 89, some families of noble birth, who 
had suffered by the times, were lodged here by order of Napo¬ 
leon ; and in 1809 the whole edifice was consecrated to the pre¬ 
servation of the archives of the nation. (1) This precious col- 

(l) Charlemagne, in 813, ordered Hie first collection of docu¬ 
ments relating to the History of France to be made,directing that it 
should be preserved in the sovereign’s palace. But it afterwards 



266 EIGHTH WALK. 

lection originated with the National Assembly in 1789, and to 
it were afterwards joined, besides all the acts and proces-ver- 
baux of the legislature, the domanial and administrative ar¬ 
chives, the charters and other documents of the monastic bodies, 
public papers relating to the topography and statistics of the 
country, as well as several other objects of value and rarity. 
In 1810, 11, 12, all the riches of the archives of the countries 
conquered by Napoleon were deposited here; but these were 
taken away by the allied troops after the fall of the Emperor. 
The ancient nobility, also, on their return from emigration, 
demanded and obtained their title-deeds, which had been se¬ 
questrated during the revolution. In the 15th century some 
of the archives of the French monarchy were carried to 
England, but during that period of confusion the most important 
were preserved in the monasteries. 

Exterior. —The building has four courts ; the first, the Cour 
de Soubise, forms a semi-oval, laid out in small flower- 
gardens, with a beautiful peristyle of coupled Corinthian co¬ 
lumns running all round, and abutting upon the principal 
front, which consists of a central pavilion of two stories, and 
wings of one story only, ornamented with coupled composite 
columns, continued along the lower story of the pavilion, the 
upper story of which displays coupled Corinthian columns 
crowned with a pediment bearing recumbent statues, while 
other statues adorn the wings. The Cour de Clisson adjoins 
the western buildings, and gives access to the Ecole des 
Chartes (see above). Next is the Cour de Guise, bounded on 
its western side by the old buildings erected by that family in 
continuation of those built by the Clissons, and which have 
been saved from demolition by the present administration of 
the establishment; the buildings to the east are modern, and 
are to be continued along the northern side of this court. The 
Cour de VAdministration lies to the east of the latter, and 
contains, as its name denotes, the apartments of the Director- 

beeame the custom for the head of the Stale to carry the ar¬ 
chives with him when he went to war, and in 1194 Richard 
Cceur de Lion, having defeated Philip Augustus at Belleforgc, 
took possession of them, together with the royal seal. In 1220 
the Chancellor Garin was charged to make not only a collection, 
but copies of all charters then existing; and subsequently mo¬ 
nasteries, churches, communes, and corporations made collec¬ 
tions of their archives. Up to the time of St. Louis the royal 
archives of France were deposited in the Temple, hut he caused 
them to be removed to the Ste. Chapelle, where they remained 
for some centuries. In 17 82 there were in France 1,225 collec¬ 
tions of archives, and a selection of 50,000 documents was 
made from them, and deposited in the Royal Library at Paris, 


PALAIS DES ARCHIVES IMPERIALES. 267 

General and the offices of the establishment. Besides this, a 
garden is attached to the apartments of the Director-General. 

Interior. —The establishment, which is under the jurisdic¬ 
tion of the Minister of State, is divided into four departments 
or sections, viz.: 1st, the secretariat; 2dly, the historical sec¬ 
tion, comprising old records and charters commencing from the 
7th century, bulls, monastic and ecclesiastical records, others 
relating to military religious orders, ancient schools and uni¬ 
versities, genealogical matters, &c.—3dly, the administrative 
section, comprising the proceedings of the ancient Council of 
State and the Council of Lorraine, also royal ordonnances, 
letters patent, See. ; documents relating to the constitutional 
Regime of 1791, the Convention, Executive Directory, Con¬ 
sulate, Empire, and Restoration, besides the contributions 
from the departments of the Interior, Agriculture, Commerce, 
and Public Works, Public Instruction and Worship; also the 
records of the ancient Chamber of Accounts at Paris, and 
documents relating to princely apanages, domains, national 
property, sequestrations, confiscations, topographical maps, 
and the division of France into departments. — 4thly, the le¬ 
gislative and judicial section, comprising laws, ordonnances, 
edicts, letters patent, imperial decrees, both manuscript and 
printed ; authentic copies and minutes of the Assembly of 
Notables and National Assemblies, papers relating to repre¬ 
sentatives sent on missions, and committees of the Convention 
and other national assemblies, the Senate, Chamber of Peers, 
Grand Chancellor’s office, Secretaries of the King, various 
councils, the Parlement de Paris, the Chatelet, various courts 
and jurisdictions, extraordinary tribunals, Court of Peers, Sec., 
and the contributions from the department of the Minister of 
Justice. This immense mass of historical, administrative, and 
judicial matter, which was found in 1861 to fill 500,000 
volumes, boxes (cartons), portfolios, and bundles, occupies 
130 rooms, and lias been arranged with the greatest precision 
by the present administration, so that any document may, by 
referring to a plan of the building, executed by order of the 
late Director-General, be produced at a moment’s notice. 
If all the cartons and wrappers were placed in a line, they 
would measure 29,600 metres, upwards of 18 English miles. 
Extensive improvements are still in progress. The western 
pavilion of the Cour de Guise containing a saloon decorated 
with paintings by Boucher and Natoire, has been thoroughly 
repaired. We need not enter into a minute description of the 
other rooms, except one on the eastern first floor, where the 
visitor may see a curious original painting imagined by the 
Jesuits, of which engravings exist, representing a vessel, il- 


268 EIGHTH WALK. 

lustrative of the clangers humanity, according to those fathers, 
is exposed to from the machinations of the Evil One. This is 
here, from its having been used as evidence in the prosecution 
of the Jesuits, which led to their suppression in 1773. We 
may now ascend the splendid staircase, giving access to 
the Salle du Tresor des Charles, where, in a large vertical 
frame, is a specimen of a collection of 15,000 casts possessed 
by the establishment, of all the State seals from Childeric I., 
A.D. 457, down to the time of Louis Philippe, together with 
those of the towns and communes of France. The oldest 
record preserved here, among 47 Merovingian charters, is a 
deed of Clotaire II., A.D. 62 5, on papyrus, containing a 
donation of lands to the Abbey of St. Denis. This deed was 
for the first time deciphered, and a fac-simile made of it, in 
1852 ; and fac-similes have been made of other ancient deeds 
also preserved here. Among the other interesting objects, 
we may mention a model of the Bastille, cut out of a stone 
of that fortress, various articles of apparel worn by Marie 
Antoinette, the armoire de fer made by order of the National 
Assembly in 17 90 to contain the implements used in printing 
the assignats, the golden seals of various Kings of France, 
and the bulls of papal decrees, the keys of the Bastille, the 
silver keys of Namur presented to Louis XIV., the famous 
livre rouge found at Versailles, the wills of Louis XVI. and 
Marie Antoinette, her last letter, the journal of Louis XVI., the 
minute of the Droits de Fhomme, the plate of the Assignats, 
medals of the Empire, the standards of the metre, gramme , 
and decagramme in platinum, autograph letters of Napoleon 
I., and among them one written by him to Louis XVIII., &c. 
In the adjoining room there are some excellent paintings by 
Watteau. There is a valuable library of 15,000 volumes here. 
Open on Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 3. 

Behind the Hotel de Soubise, in the rue Chariot, is 

St. Francois d’Assise, second district church of the seventh 
arrondissement.—The exterior and interior are both plain. It 
was the chapel of a convent of Capuchins, founded in 1623. 
It consists of a nave, choir, and one aisle; the galleries opening 
into the aisle, from whence the fraternity formerly heard 
service, still remain. It is remarkable for some good paint¬ 
ings it contains, namely : Noah’s Sacrifice, by Trezel, St. 
John the Baptist, by Franque, St. John writing the Apoca¬ 
lypse, by Trezel, a Crucifixion, St. Louis visiting his soldiers 
sick of the plague, by Scheffer, St. Francois d’Assise before 
Pope Innocent III., by Gaillot, the same saint before the sultan 
of Egypt, by Lordon, and Christ at the Column, by Degeorges. 
Over the doors of the sacristy is the apotheosis of St. 





IMPRIMERIE IMPERIALE. 269 

Francis. At the entrance of the choir is, on the left 
hand, a very remarkable kneeling figure of the patron saint, 
in his monastic dress, of grey marble; the hands and head are 
of white marble. Opposite to it is one of St. Denis. Behind 
the altar in the choir are several large paintings ; the best of 
which are Christ appearing to St. Catherine, St. Francis re¬ 
ceiving the stigmata of the Crucifixion, St. Charles Borromeo 
at Milan, the Baptism of Christ, by Guerin, and the Communion 
of St. Theresa. In the windows of the Lady Chapel are the 
twelve Apostles in stained glass. 

Continuing eastward to the rue Vieille du Temple, we 
find the 

Imprimerie Imperiale, formerly the Palais Cardinal.— 
This hotel, erected in 1712, was the property of the Cardinal 
de Rohan, so famous in the time of Louis XVI., and whose 
intrigues brought so much unmerited odium on the unfortunate 
Marie Antoinette. In this hotel the scenes described by Mme. 
Campan took place. The Imprimerie Royalc was first esta¬ 
blished by Louis XIII. in the Tuileries, and transferred to the 
Gallery of the Louvre by Louis XIV. ; in 1792 a portion of it 
was transferred to the Elysee Bourbon, under the name Impri¬ 
merie du Bulletin des lois; but in the year 17 95 the whole 
was established in the Hotel de Toulouse, or de Penthievre, now 
the Bank of France; it was finally transferred to the present 
locality in 1809 (1). By a recent decree, this establish¬ 
ment is now to be transferred to the new Louvre. Offi¬ 
cial documents of every description are printed here, 
for the government offices both of the capital and the 
departments, besides the Bulletin des Lois, and a great 
number of Oriental works, for which there are per¬ 
manent correctors. About 950 persons, including up¬ 
wards of 300 women and 40 boys, are constantly employed 
in this establishment for 10 hours daily. Compositors and 
pressmen earn about G fr. a-day. After 30 years’ service 
they are entitled to a pension of 400 fr., and a certain small 
portion of their wages is deducted for a sick fund. The 
bookbinders earn about 3 fr. 50 c., and the women about 
2 francs per diem. The establishment is under the manage¬ 
ment of a director, and six chefs de service, who have nu¬ 
merous clerks under them. In the centre of the first court is 
a fine bronze statue of Guttenberg, cast on the same model as 
that executed by David d’Angers for Strasburg. Its pedestal 

(i) During the revolution of IS30, the mob broke into this 
office, and among them printers from other establishments, who 
destroyed the steam presses, thinking thereby to enforce a re¬ 
turn to hand-labour ; but in 1848 the establishment was spared, 




270 EIGHTH WALK. 

is adorned with has-reliefs illustrating the progress of civiliza¬ 
tion through the art of printing. The visitor is conducted 
through all the different branches connected with typography. 
First is the type-foundry for alphabets of different languages, 
including the Chinese, Sanscrit, Tartar, and the Assyrian 
cuneiform characters, (l) Stereotyping is not practised in the 
establishment. The compositors’ rooms come next; about 
150 men are employed here. The hand-press room, consist¬ 
ing of two parallel galleries meeting a transverse one at right 
angles, contains eighty-eight presses, each requiring two 
men. Upwards of 350,000 sheets are struck off daily by 
these presses. The printing of the ace of clubs, of the kings, 
queens, and knaves of cards, is also done here, this being a go¬ 
vernment monopoly ; the number printed daily is about 12,000 
packs. Card-manufacturers are allowed to print all the other 
cards themselves. A glazed partition separates this room from 
the printing machines, of which there are 19, all worked by 
steam; the same engine at the same time communicating mo¬ 
tion to a hydraulic press for pressing paper, the power it ex¬ 
ercises amounting to 800 tons. The hot steam is not lost, but 
passes into a drying machine, and helps to warm the establish¬ 
ment in winter. Adjoining the hand-press galleries is an¬ 
other with 4 large lithographic presses; above is a gallery for 
draughtsmen, and another with 1G lithographic presses more. 
The various operations of sewing, binding, and wetting the 
paper, as well as the ingenious contrivances for speedy con 
veyance of bundles or packs, for cutting paper, ruling it, etc., 
are very interesting. On the ground-lloor of an adjoining wing 
is the form-room, an immense gallery filled with whole works 
in type, ready to be printed off as may be required. The forms 
or types of government papers (about 20,000 at present) are 
kept here for a long time after they are used. There is also a 
smithy on the premises for repairs. The Imprimerie Imperiale, 
besides an immense number of modern matrices, possesses 
also several typographical curiosities ; the most interesting is 
the Grec du Roi, being a complete set of matrices of Greek 
characters engraved by order of Francis I., and so perfect in 
form, that the University of Cambridge applied for a fount of 
them in 1G92. The oriental books, with coloured margins, 
and other splendid specimens of typography, unique in their 
kind, and which can scarcely be executed elsewhere, are also 
deserving of remark. When Pope Pius VII. visited the Print- 

(i) There are the types here of 56 oriental languages, and 16 
European ones not using the Latin characters. The latter exist 
here in 46 different forms and sizes; 356 reams of paper, equi¬ 
valent to 92G6 octavo volumes, can be struck off in a single day. 




NOTRE DAME DES BLANCS MANTEAUX. 271 

ing-Office, the Lord’s Prayer was printed and presented to 
him in 150 languages; and, before he returned to his carriage, 
he received a copy of the collection ready hound. There is a 
cabinet containing specimens of typography executed here, 
which, even to a mere observer, is one of the most gratifying 
sights in Paris. The authors of works of real utility, the 
printing of which could not remunerate private enterprise, may 
obtain their being printed here at the expense of government. 
The receipts of this establishment are about 4,500,000 fr.; the 
expenses 4,587,000 fr. Visible, on Thursdays at 2 p.m. pre¬ 
cisely, with a ticket, for which apply by writing to M. le 
Directeur de VImprimerie Imperiale. 

At the corner of the rue des Francs-Bourgeois, there is an 
elegant old turret, near which the murder of the Duke of 
Orleans, only brother of Charles VI., on Nov. 20, 1407, was 
perpetrated (1), an event which gave rise to the bloody feud 
so disastrous to France, and which led to its occupation by 
the English. 

At 7, rue de Paradis, or 16, rue des Blancs Manteaux, is a 
large and well-designed edifice, the central establishment of 
the Mont de Piete (see p. 128). At No. 12 is the church of 

Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux,— once the chapel 
of a convent of mendicant friars, called the Blancs Manteaux, 
from their dress, or the Serviteurs de la Vierge Marie, who 
established themselves in 1258. In 1297, another mendicant 
order, the Guillemites, replaced them by order of the Pope; 
and, in 1618, these were united to a Benedictine order, and 
the monastery and chapel were rebuilt. The Tuscan and 
Ionian facade of the church of the Barnabites, now removed, 
has been adapted to this, which was the chapel of the old 
convent. Within, its style is Corinthian. It consists of a 
nave, with aisles, and a circular choir ; it has an arched ceiling 
with lateral windows. The frieze is adorned with emblems of 

(l) The Duke had been supping with the Queen at the Ilolel 
Barbelle, and was going to the Hotel SI. Paul, on a pretended 
summons from the King, brought by a person in the conspiracy 
of the Duke of Burgundy. He was mounted on a mule, fol¬ 
lowed by two equerries on one horse, a page, and three fool- 
men carrying flambeaux. On arriving opposite a house, called 
L’lmage Notre Dame, he was attacked by 18 armed men, headed 
by Raoul d’Oetonville, a Norman gentleman. The equerries’ 
horse ran away with them, and the Duke was set upon by the band 
crying : “ A mortl” “ I am the Duke of Orleans!” he exclaimed. 
“ It is you whom we want,” replied the murderers, and at the 
same moment a battle-axe cut off his bridle-hand. Several 
blows of swords and clubs succeeding each other, he fell to the 
ground, but defended himself on his knees, parrying for some 


272 EIGHTH WALK. 

the Jewish ritual, and with monograms of various saints. 
Facing the aisle to the left, is Jesus washing the feet of the 
Apostles, by Latil. On the wall of the aisle are three paint¬ 
ings by Lafon ; viz. the Baptism of Christ, the Marriage of the 
Virgin, and St. Benedict with St. Scholastica, his sister. There 
are besides : the Miracle of the loaves and fishes by Andran 
(1683); and the Feast of Cana. In the right aisle is the Arch¬ 
angel crushing the Demon ; and Christ curing a possessed man, 
by Frosse; an Assumption, by Dejeanne (1740); and an An¬ 
nunciation. Facing the aisle is a beautiful Adoration of the 
Shepherds, by Bralle ; and over the entrance is a large and 
splendid picture of the death of St. Petronilla, of the school of 
Guercino. This painting, one of the finest in any of the Pari¬ 
sian churches, was given to the church on its restoration to 
worship; it came from Versailles. The pulpit, of modern 
construction, deserves attention on account of its gorgeous 
decoration in the style of Louis XV., and its inlaid work, re¬ 
presenting, in various compartments, different Biblical sub¬ 
jects. The canopy is adorned with figures of the Archangel 
Michael and the four Evangelists. 

At No. 16, in the rue des Billettes, we find 

The Lutheran Church ( Les Cannes Billettes )—Built in 
1745, after the designs of Claude, a Dominican, and belonged 
to a body of Carmelite friars. In 1790 the convent was sup¬ 
pressed, and in 1808 it was bought by the City of Paris, and 
given to the Lutherans. In the vestry are several good pic¬ 
tures, presenled by General Rapp, and other Protestants. Ser¬ 
vice is performed on Sundays, at 12 in French, and at 2 in 
German. Adjoining the church is a small court, surrounded 
by a Gothic portico, belonging to the old monastery. 

The rue Croix de la Bretonnerie leads to the 

MarchE des Blancs Manteaux, opened, in 1819, on the 
site of the convent des Filles Ilospitalieres de St. Gervais. 
It is flanked by a municipal primary school for Jews. 

At No. 47, rue Vieille du Temple, is 

time the attacks with his arm. “ Qu’est ceci? D’oii vient ceci?” 
he exclaimed from time to time. At length, a blow from a club 
dashed out his brains. A man, whose face was covered with a 
scarlet hood, came out of the house, and with a club struck the 
dead body, saying, “ Eteignez lout; allons-nous-en; il est mort.” 
They then set fire to the house in which they had been concealed, 
and took to flight. The Duke of Burgundy a few days afterwards 
fled from Paris, having confessed to the Duke de Berri that the 
deed had been done by bis order, because the Duke of Orleans 
had placed the Duchess of Burgundy’s picture among those of his 
mistresses. The Duke of Burgundy was afterwards assassinated 
at the bridge of Montereau by the son of the Duke of Orleans, 





HOTEL DE CARNAVALET. 273 

The Hotel de IIollande (so called from being the Dutch 
Ambassador’s in the reign of Louis XIV.), built by Cottard, 
and once inhabited by Beaumarchais. On the walls round the 
court may be seen four dials and some astronomical diagrams 
faintly traced, with Latin inscriptions. In the first court, over 
the gateway, is a bas-relief, the Finding of Romulus and Re¬ 
mus ; on the urn of the Tiber is the date 1660. 

No. 12 in the rue des Francs Bourgeois was the residence 
of the Dukes de Roquelaure, and No. 15 is an hotel of the 
time of Henry IV. At the corner of the rue Pavee stands 

The Hotel de Lamoignon, one of the most elegant of the resi¬ 
dences of the old nobility. Its front is adorned with fine Corin¬ 
thian pilasters, and in the pediments over the wings are shields 
with stags’ heads, the horns held by angels ; heads of hounds, See. 
A beautiful balcony in the northern wing, and a curious square 
turret at the corner of the street, should be remarked. 

In the rue Pavee were the H6tel de la Houze, and Hdtels 
de Gaucher, de Chdtillon, and d’Herbouville, or de Savoisi. 
Here stood also the prison of La Force, formerly the hotel of 
the Due de La Force, but converted into a prison in 1780, ( see 
p. 75); it was demolished in 1851, and new streets opened on 
its site. A new quarter has sprung up between the space once 
occupied by the Marche St. Jean (1) and the rue Culture Ste. 
Catherine. Hereabout stood the house of Pierre de Craon, 
razed to the ground in consequence of his attack on the Con- 
netable de Clissonin 1392. In the Rue du Roi de Sicile, No. 
32 was for some time inhabited by Gabriclle d’Estrees. 

At No. 23, in the rue de Sevigne, is the 

Hotel de Carnavalet, one of the most beautiful mansions 
of the 16th century, built in 1544 by Jean Bullant, architect, 
and decorated with sculpture by Jean Goujon. It was the 
residence of Madame de Sevigne, and the Countess de Grignan, 
her daughter. The front is adorned with Ionic pilasters. The 
sculptured gateway is by Jean Goujon, as well as the winged 
, figure on the key-stone, the two lions trampling on armour, 
several medallion trophies, &c. In the court, the centre group 
is by the same hand, and consists of Fame attended by two 
winged messengers. The other devices are by artists of less note, 
but are all above mediocrity. This hotel was once distinguised 
above all others in Paris, as the favourite resort of wit, learn¬ 
ing, and refinement. The drawing-rooms of Madame de Se¬ 
vigne and her daughter are still shown, with the closet im¬ 
mortalised by the Letters there composed, and a portrait, by 

(l) It was formerly a cemetery, and used as a place of exe¬ 
cution. In 1535 , a merchant, named Etienne de la Force, was 
burnt alive here for heresy. 


18 







274 EIGHTH WALK. 

Mignard, of the gifted authoress. (1) In the garden, there 
are two sycamore trees planted in her time. This hotel has 
now been purchased by the City for the purpose of convert¬ 
ing it into a 

Municipal Museum. —This highly important collection of 
historical relics connected with the capital of France was 
created in 1867 by M. Haussmann, Prefect of the Seine, and 
its organisation, still in progress, is entrusted to Baron 
Poisson, Member of the Municipal Council, Mr. Charles Read, 
Chief of the Historical Department at the Hotel-de-Ville, and 
other archaeologists. The museum, when completed, will 
comprize four great divisions: ~ I. The Pre-Jfistoric Ages, 
represented by a variety of palaeontological specimens found 
in the basins of the Seine and the Bievre, such as skeletons 
and single bones of extinct gigantic animals ; then flint imple¬ 
ments and weapons indicative of the existence of man at those 
remote periods.—II. The Gallo-Roman period, exemplified by 
statues, bas-reliefs, pottery, inscriptions, bracelets, fibula?, 
necklaces, 8cc , and by a considerable number of plans repre¬ 
senting edifices of former days, the foundations of which were 
successively brought to light by the pickaxe and shovel 
during the various demolitions. Thus, for instance, we see 
here the plan of the Roman citadel which occupied part of 
the rue Soufflot, and that of a Roman theatre which stood on 
the ground of the Lycee St. Louis (see p. 383).—III. The 
Middle Ages, from the fifth to the fifteenth century ; the 
Renaissance to the end of the 16th, and the subsequent 
period down to the Revolution. Each of these sections of 
the Third Division will comprise the topography and archi¬ 
tecture of old Paris. The plans handed down to us by the 
earlier topographers will be exposed here, together with the 
rectifications rendered necessary by their want of accuracy. 
Other partial plans, showing a variety of interesting trans¬ 
formations connected with some historical event, will be col¬ 
lected in portfolios. Next will come drawings, prints, and 
paintings representing Paris at different periods, both generally 
and in detail. Of these, the City possesses a vast number, 
and is daily accumulating more. Many of these documents, 
though worthless in an artistical point of view, are highly 

(l) In pulling down a house near this hotel in i s49, an old 
worm-eaten box was found, containing some manuscripts of 
the age of Louis XIII., and attributed to Marion Delorme, the 
famous courtesan, under the title of Ma Confession. At the corner 
of this street Pierre de Craon, Chamberlain to the Duke of Or¬ 
leans, afterwards assassinated by the Duke of Burgundy (see 
p. 273 n.), waylaid the Connelable de Clisson in 1592 . 




PLACE ROYALE. 275 

valuable as historical records. To this Division also belong 
all the MSS., charters, seals, etc., relating to the Municipal 
Body, from the guild of the Nautce Parisiaci down to the 
latest organization before the Revolution. A series of coins 
and medals, and all the masterpieces executed by workmen 
desirous of being admitted members of the various corpora¬ 
tions of goldsmiths, drapers, etc., will complete this impor¬ 
tant collection, which may be considered one of the most 
glorious labours undertaken by this City. Nor should we 
neglect to mention a gallery of portraits of the Prevots and 
Echevins of Paris, and of its most distinguished citizens.— 
IV. The Contemporary Period will receive various articles, 
specimens of modern art, medals, and coins, which may be 
interesting to posterity. 

The rue Neuve Ste Catherine leads eastwards to the 

Place Royale, once Place des Vosges (1), standing on the 
site of the famous Palais des Tournelles, so called from its 
many turrets. It occupied a great extent of ground; and 
many of the neighbouring streets bear names which mark the 
site of some of its principal parts. It was in this palace that 
the masquerade took place, which so nearly proved fatal to 
Charles VI.; and it was in the great court that the tournament 
was heid, in which Henry II., tilting with the Count de Mont- 
gommeri, received a wound in the eye, of which he died, 
(see p. 169ft.) In consequence of this event, Catherine de Me- 
dicis caused the palace to be demolished in 1565, and the pre¬ 
sent “place” was begun in 1604, under Henry IV. Its 
surface is 15,350 square yards; the houses are all of red brick, 
with stone quoins and high roofs; a wide but low arcade 
runs round the square, which is adorned with fountains, 
planted with trees, and surrounded with railings. An eques¬ 
trian statue of Louis XIII., erected here by Richelieu in 1639, 
was destroyed in 1792, but its place was supplied, in 1829, 
by the present one, in white marble, by Dupaty and Cortot. 
This was formerly the court end of the town; it is now 
i chiefly inhabited by persons of limited income. 

(1) In the year VIII of the Republic, the Consulate issued a 
decree, by which the department which should be the first to re¬ 
lieve the penury of the Treasury by paying its taxes should he 
honoured by having its name affixed to one of the public squares 
of the capital. The department of the Vosges having been fore¬ 
most in obeying the summons, the Place Royale was in conse¬ 
quence called Place des Vosges. At the restoration in 1 814 it re¬ 
sumed its former name. From that time, the Conseil-General 
des Vosges petitioned the government every year to have its own 
name restored; this was done immediately in February 1848 * 
but the old name lias been restored since August, 18 53. 



276 NINTH WAlK. 

Passing through the central archway on the northern side, 
We perceive, in the rue de la Ghaussee des Minimes, the spa¬ 
cious barracks of the Gendarmerie, recently erected ; and, 
turning to the left into the rue St. Gilles, we find ourselves 
in the rue Turenne. At the corner of the rue Ste. Claude is, 

St. Denis du St. Sacrement. —Here there formerly stood 
the chapel of a convent of nuns, demolished in 1828. The 
present edifice has a projecting portico, of four Ionic columns, 
supporting a pediment, with an alto-relievo by Feucheres, 
representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. The interior consists 
of a nave and aisles with chapels at each extremity; the semi¬ 
circular ceiling of the nave, sculptured in elegant compart¬ 
ments, is supported by a range of eight Ionic columns on 
either side. The choir, which is semicircular and crowned 
by a semi-cupola, is painted in fresco, by Abel de Pujol; 
the subject in the cupola is the Trinity ; that of the frieze, 
St. Denis preaching Christianity to the pagan inhabitants of 
Gaul. In the adjoining Lady Chapel, at the extremity of the 
right-hand aisle, is a large fresco by Court, representing the 
Virgin consoling the afflicted. In the chapel opposite is the 
Descent from the Cross, in fresco, by Delacroix. The chapels 
of the left aisle have each a fresco ; that next to the choir, 
Christ at Emmaus, by Picot; the one opposite, Christ calling 
children around him, by Decaisne. 

On the Boulevard des Filles du Calvairc stands the Cirque 
Napoleon, a kind of Astley’s (see Theatres.) 


1TIITTH WALK. 

This walk, comprising the 11th and 12th arrondissemenls, 
may be commenced from the 

Boulevard du Prince Eugene, inaugurated in Dec., 1862, 
and extending in a direct line from the Boulevard du Temple 
to the Place du Trone (see p. 27 8). At the point where it 
meets the rue St. Sebastien, it crosses the beautiful 

Boulevard Richard Lenoir, formed over the arched roof 
of the Canal St. Martin, and lined with trees. Air shafts, 
protected by railings encircling ornamental shrubs and flowers, 
are pierced at intervals through the vault, which measures 
1,600 metres (one mile) in length. A stone bridge is thrown 
across the Canal where the arched roof ceases. 

Continuing along the Boulevard du Prince Eugene, we find 
in the rue St. Ambroise, 

St. Ambroise, chapel of ease to Ste. Marguerite, dating 
from 1639, when it belonged to a convent of nuns called the 











ST. MARGUERITE. 277 

Annonciades . This contains some very good pictures. The 
altar-piece represents St. Ambroise protecting an Arian from 
persecution, by Vafflard. By a decree of the Civil Power of 
the 20th Prairial in the year II, this church was devoted to the 
worship of the Goddess of Reason, and the cellars were turned 
into a wine and beer-shop. A revolutionary committee sat 
in the porter’s lodge, now demolished. 

At the junction of the Avenue Parmentier with the Boule¬ 
vard du Prince Eugene, stands the Mairie of the 11th arron- 
dissement, in front of which stands the 

Statue of Prince Eugene, of colossal size, by Dumont. 
He is represented standing, with his head bare, and in a 
general’s uniform. The front of the pedestal bears the inscrip¬ 
tion : “Au Prince Eugene Napoleon,” with the arms of the 
City of Paris, and the motto * “ Fluctuat nec mergitur.” On 
the back of the pedestal the words are engraved which the 
Prince wrote in 181 \ to the Emperor Alexander, declining the 
overtures of the Allies. The remaining two sides are adorned 
with eagles hearing laurels, and with the names of the battles 
at which the Prince was present. 

The Passage Richard Lenoir, and rue de Charonne lead to 
the rue St. Bernard, where we see 

Ste. Marguerite, —originally a chapel, erected in 1625. 
The interior is cruciform, with aisles. This church is rich in 
pictures. In the right aisle there is St. Louis Visiting the 
Sick ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the Infancy of Jesus, and 
a Descent from the Cross, by Lesueur ; a Salutation of Mary and 
Elizabeth, by Suvee (17 81); and two large paintings of St. 
Vincent de Paule preaching, by Restaut, and conversing with 
Anne of Austria, by Galloche. Over the sacristy door is 
Moses in prayer before Israel; and, next to it, the Virgin Mary 
and Apostles invoking the Holy Ghost, Behind the high altar 
is a tine alto-rilievo of the Descent from the Cross, by Girardon, 
in white marble. Next, in the left aisle, is the spacious chapel 
des Ames du Purgatoire, built in 17 65, with a large painting 
on canvas representing the Delivery of Souls from Purgatory. 
In the left transept are: St. Vincent de Paule conversing with 
St. Francis de Sales, by Restaut; the same preaching, by 
Baptiste, and his Apotheosis ; Ste. Magdalen’s Vision of the 
Cross, by Vafflard. At the entrance of the nave are two plaster 
groups, one of Ste. Elizabeth giving alms, the other of the death 
of Ste. Magdalen, by Maindron. Above these are St. Louis in 
Egypt relieving the plague-stricken crusaders. The pulpit has 
good bas-reliefs in oak. The rector of this church was the first 
Catholic priest who broke the vow of celibacy at the revolu¬ 
tion of 1789? It is said that the unfortunate Dauphin, son of 


278 NINTH WALK. 

Louis XVI., who was entrusted to the care of a cobbler, 
named Simon, whose ill treatment he did not long survive, 
was buried in the cemetery of this church. 

At No. 184, in the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, is the 

IIopital St. Antoine, established in 1795 in the buildings 
of the abbey of St. Antoine dcs Champs. Strangers are ad¬ 
mitted on Thursdays and Sundays from 1 to 3 (see p. 139). 

Higher up, at the corner of the rue de Picpus, stands the 

Maison Eugene Napoleon (see p. 122).—We may now 
enter the adjoining 

Place du Tiione, a circular space, planted with trees around. 
The Jacobins used it as a supplementary place of execution ; in 
August, 1794, they immolated 59 of their victims here in one 
day. It is now used for public festivals for this quarter of Paris ; 
and fire-works, shows, games, &c., when given by Govern¬ 
ment take place here as well as in the Champs Elysees. A 
gingerbread fair is annually held here after Easter. (1) Be¬ 
yond it, we perceive the two lofty Doric 

Columns of tiie Place du Trone, erected in 17 88, and 
finished in 1847. Above the bases are colossal figures in bas- 
relief: those facing the outer boulevard, by Desbceufs, represent 
Peace and Victory; those on the other side, by Simart, Industry 
and Justice. Winding staircases lead to galleries crowning 
the capitals, on each of which is an acroterium supporting a 
colossal bronze statue; one represents St. Louis, by Etex, the 
other Philip Augustus, by Dumont. A throne was erected 
here, on which Louis XIV. received the homage of the City, 
on his triumphal entry, Aug. 2Gth, 1600, whence its name. 
The two edifices right and left of the columns were the octroi- 
buildings of the Barriercs of the old enclosure of Paris, built 
by the MinisterCalonne in 17 86, and pulled down in i8 60 t2'. 
They are good specimens of what the others were. The road 
hence to Vincennes is wide, with a fine avenue. 

Eight avenues, including the Boulevard du Prince Eugene, 

(1) A triumphal arch is to be erected here to commemorate 
the Russian and Italian wars. 

(2) The farmers-general, in order to increase Hie octroi duties, 
prevailed on the minister Calonne to execute these works, not¬ 
withstanding the opposition of Hie inhabitants of Paris, which 
gave rise to the following pun : 

Le nuir murant Paris rend Paris murmurant. 

The old enclosure measured 29 % miles in circumference, with 
56 barriers. In May 1791, the entrance duties were abolished, 
in consequence of which the barriers became useless. Under the 
Directory, about the year V, a small duty was levied, and the 
barriers were repaired. The produce of these duties, being given 
to hospitals, it took the name of octroi de bienfaisance. Napoleon I, 



BOULEVARD MAZAS. 279 

radiate from the centre of the Place du Trone, and two more 
are in contemplation for symmetry’s sake. Of those now 
existing, not the least important is the 

Boulevard Mazas, opened in 1853, and extending down to 
the quays. King Dagobert had a palace in this neighbour¬ 
hood, which was also inhabited in the 17 th century by the 
notorious Marquise de Brinvilliers. 

Entering theme de Picpus from this Boulevard, we find, at 
No. 12, the hospital called Maison d’Enghien, (see p. 123.) 
and, lower down, at No. 35, an Augustine convent, now 
occupied by the Dames du Sucre Cceur. Within the walls 
of this establishment is the small private Cimeticrc da Picpus , 
containing the remains of several noble families, such as de 
Noailles, de Grammont, de Montaigu, Rosambo, Lamoignon, 
&c.; and Lafayette. In an adjoining spot repose several 
victims of the reign of terror. Visitors are admitted. 

At No. 78 is a Jewish hospital, built by Baron James 
Rothschild, and inaugurated on the 2Gth of May, 1852. Be¬ 
sides Hie common sick-wards provided for each sex, there are 
in this hospital several rooms for peculiar complaints, or for 
patients who can afford to pay. There are baths on the 
ground-floor, besides a laundry and dispensary. The estab¬ 
lishment also has a spacious garden. The ventilation of the 
wards is excellent. Strangers are admitted on Wednesdays, 
Thursdays, and Sundays from 1 to 4. The cost of this building 
was 400,000 fr. Close to it is a Maison de retraite for aged 
Israelites. Architect, M. Thierry. 

A few steps along the outer Boulevards, skirting what for¬ 
merly was the village of la Grande Pinto , will bring us to the 
rue de Reuilly, where at No. 30, we find the church of 

St. Eloi, presenting a gabled front in the Lombard style. 
It consists of a nave and two aisles with arched ceilings, all 
elaborately painted in the Byzantine style. The choir is 
painted in three compartments by Midy and Doerr, represent¬ 
ing : 1. St. Eloi or Eligius as a smith ; 2. The same as Bishop 
of Noyon, preaching ; 3. The same as Minister of King Dago¬ 
bert. At the extremity of the right aisle is the chapel of the 
Virgin, and in the other aisle that of the Abbess St. Aurea re¬ 
ceiving the veil from St. Eloi. 

Crossing the Boulevard Mazas, we see extensive barracks, 
occupying the site of the Royal looking-glass manufactory 
erected bv Colbert. 

Descending along the same Boulevard, we shall perceive 

finished the octroi-wall, and considerably increased the duties. 
On the river, at the eastern and western extremities of the city, 
duties are levied by octroi-boats called patache t. 


280 NINTH WALK. 

a row of houses of simple design, 16 in number, built by the 
Emperor for the accommodation of workmen at low rents. 
They comprise 311 lodgings, and 36 shops and back-simps, 
and will hold about 1,200 persons. Judging, however, from 
the window-curtains of the first and second stories, the in¬ 
mates would seem to belong to classes somewhat removed 
from the level of those for whom the houses were intended. 
Most of the apartments are composed of an ante-room, kit¬ 
chen, dining-room, and one or two bed-rooms (1.) 

Further down, in the Avenue Daumesnil , skirting the 
viaduct of the Vincennes railway (see p. 283), His Majesty 
has built 4 8 houses more on the same plan, at a cost of 
510,000 fr., and made a gift of the whole to a co-operative 
society of workmen, formed with a view to the construction 
of cheap lodgings. 

The Avenue Daumesnil leads to the Vincennes race-course. 
Continuing along the Boulevard Mazas, we find, nearly oppo¬ 
site the prison (see p. 75), the terminus o' the 

Lyons Railway —fronting the whole length of the rue de 
Bercy, from the Boulevard Mazas to rue Rambouillet. In the 
centre of this extent a double flight of stairs gives access to 
an immense terrace, 12 metres from the level of the street. 
The whole terrace leading to it from the rue de Lyon, is 57 0 
feet iu length by 2 50 in breadth, and the total surface occu¬ 
pied by the terminus is 550,000 square feet. Behind the 
edifice there is another terrace, and carriage ways lead up 
to both. A bold arch fronts the new rue de Lyon, which 
opens into the Place de la Bastille. 

The rue de Bercy leads to the exterior Boulevard of that 
name, which reaches to the Seine, skirting the village of 
Bercy, now annexed to Paris as part of the 12th arrondisse- 
ment. This place is still the great wine-mart of Paris, but the 
trade is likely to be shifted elsewhere, when the full effect of the 
annexation shall begin to be felt. The warehouses for wine extend 
half a mile along the river. Wine can be left here in bond; and 
the quay is at times quite covered with casks. At Bercy is the 

Pont de Bercy, or de la Gare, formerly a chain bridge, 
now rebuilt of stone. It cost 7 50,000 fr. 

Further up the river is the Pont Napoleon, a new viaduct 

(l) The Municipality intend giving the system of cites ouvrieres 
another fair trial, notwithstanding its previous bad success, 
(see p. 233.) A surface of 20,000 square metres, having a front 
ol so metres, is to be enclosed in this faubourg, with houses 
four stories high, offering accommodation to 16 families each. 
A number of rooms for single men, at 10 fr. a month, a bed., U 
table and two chairs included, arc also to be provided* 

•t , ' - <■ * 


PLACE DE LA BASTILLE. 281 

over the Seine for the railway round Paris. There is here a 
floating octroi-office moored on the river. Immediately within 
the line of the outer Boulevard stands the great 

Depot des Fourrages, for the garrison of Paris, a hand¬ 
some building, 300 feet long, and 4 stories high, with sheds 500 
feet long, and 2 3 feet high, for straw, hay, Sec. 

The Quai de la Rapee crosses the Place and Boulevard Mazas. 

Further on is the Boulevard de la Conlrescarpe, skirting the 
fine port or Gave da Canal St. Marlin, and ending at the 

Place de la Bastille. —The Bastille was attacked and cap¬ 
tured by the people on the 14th of July, 17 89. In May and 
June of the following year it was demolished, in pursuance of 
a decree of the National Assembly, and part of the materials 
were employed in the construction of the Pontde la Concorde. 
Its site now forms the Place de la Bastille, part of the moat 
having been converted into the port mentioned above. Here 
it was, at the entrance of the Faubourg St. Antoine, that 
the insurgents of June 1848 had erected their strongest bar¬ 
ricade, which it required all the efforts of artillery to over¬ 
throw. It was on this barricade that Monseigneur Denis 
Affre, archbishop of Paris, met with his death, in attempting 
to persuade the insurgents to desist from their fratricidal 
struggle. (1) In the centre of the place, the construction of a 
fountain was begun, by order of Napoleon, but was afterwards 
abandoned. (2) On the site of this fountain now stands the 

(1) On June 25, 1 848, the archbishop, justly grieved on accoun 
of the bloody conflict which had been for the last three days 
spreading desolation throughout the metropolis, proceeded, 
with General Cavaignac’s consent, to the Place de la Bastille, and, 
after obtaining from Gen. Perot an hour’s cessation of hostilities, 
advanced towards the barricade preceded by a young man car¬ 
rying a green branch before him in token of peace. At his 
approach, the insurgents stopped their fire, and appeared to 
listen attentively to the words of the apostle of peace, when, 
by some unfortunate misunderstanding, Ihe fire recommenced, 
and the archbishop was struck by a ball. The insurgents instantly 
carried him to the hospice of the Quinze-Vingts, loudly declar¬ 
ing that they were innocent of the act. The extraction of the 
ball was impossible, and the high-minded prelate died on the 
following day. His last words were : “ May my blood be the 
last spilt in civil war!” The Constituent Assembly decreed that 
a monument should be erected to his memory in the cathedral 
of Notre Dame. 

( 2 ) According to the design presented by Penon, an arch over 
the Canal St. Martin was to bear a bronze elephant more than 
72 feet high, including the tower on its back ; the water was to 
issue from the trunk, and a staircase leading to the tower was 
to be constructed in one of its legs. A small model of UbS els* 
phaiR is preserved at the Faiais des Peaux Avts, 



282 . NINTH WALK. 

Column of July, its pedestal standing immediately on a 
basement of white marble, supported by blocks of granite. 
The foundations were laid by Louis Philippe, July 28, 1831. 
On the western side of the pedestal is figured, in bold relief, a 
lion passant, and underneath the following inscription : 

A la gloire ties Ciloyens Fran^ais, qui s’armfcrent et combat- 
tirent pour la defense des liberies publiques dans les memorables 
journees des 27, 28, 29 Juillet 1830. 

On the opposite side is the date of the laws decreeing the mo¬ 
nument, and the other two sides bear the dates of the 27th, 
28th, and 29th July. At the corners of the pedestal is the 
Gallic cock bearing an oaken wreath in its claws. The shaft 
of the pillar is partly fluted, and partly encircled with bands 
bearing lions’ heads, whose open mouths admit light and air 
to the staircase within. The spaces into which these bauds divide 
the column are filled with the names of 504 patriots killed 
during the Three Days of 1830. The Corinthian capital, over 
which is a railed gallery, is 16% feet wide, and ornamented 
with lions’ heads, genii bearing garlands, &c. Surmounting 
the capital is a gilt globe, and on it stands a colossal figure, 
gilt also, representing the “Genius of Liberty,” in its right 
hand is a torch, in its left a broken chain; it stands on one 
foot, with wings expanded, as if in the act of taking flight. 
The height of the column, which is of the Composite order, 
is about 154 feet, the diameter 12 feet; weight of metal em¬ 
ployed 163,283 lb.; it cost about 1,224,098 fr. Unlike the 
column in the Place Vendome, the metallic cylinders of which 
it is composed are not supported by masonry within; the 
staircase, therefore, vibrates perceptibly to every blast of 
wind. This monument was designed by Alavoine and exe¬ 
cuted by M. Due. It was inaugurated with great ceremony 
on July 28, 1840, when the remains of the victims of 1830 
were deposited in the vaults underneath. In the marble base¬ 
ment is a circular corridor, paved with white marble, relieved 
with stars and crosses of black marble, and lighted by win¬ 
dows of stained glass. Descending a few steps, are the sepul¬ 
chral vaults, secured by four cast-iron doors, ornamented with 
rich tracery. Each vault contains a vast sarcophagus 14 yards 
in length, 1 in width, and 1 deep. Most of the combatants 
who fell in February 1848 were also transferred here. Around 
the base of the pedestal is an enclosure flagged with marble, 
and protected by a massive iron railing. The throne of Louis 
Philippe was burnt here by the mob on the 24th of February 
1848. The view from the top of the column is very tine. A 
fsmall gratuity to the keepers is expected. 

The Place de la Bastille presents several points of interest. 


HOPITAL STE. EUGENIE. 283 

At the entrance of the rue St. Antoine there formerly stood 
a triumphal arch, demolished in 17 89. The corner-house, 
No. 1, of the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, was inhabited 
by Pepin, who was executed as one of Fieschi’s accomplices 
in his attempt against the life of Louis Philippe in 1835. 
The fine boulevard over the Canal St. Martin (see p. 27 6) may 
here be taken in at one view ; the new terminus of the 

Vincennes Railway, an elegant building, stands opposite, 
and on another side the Boulevard Beaumarchais commences 
the series of the interior boulevards. Here, too, is the small 
Theut:e Beaumarchais (see p. 47 1), opposite the site of the 
house where the celebrated dramatist lived. 

Entering the rue de Charenton, we find at No. 28 the 
Hospice des Quinze-Vingts. —This hospital for the blind 
was founded by St. Louis in 1260, at the corner of the rue 
St. Nicaise, and was removed to the Ilutel des Mousqiietaires 
Noirs, in 1779, by Cardinal de Rohan. In 17 89 part of its 
property was confiscated, but was restored in 1814 (see p. 121). 
In the second court of the house adjoining, No. 26, is 
St. Antoine, the chapel of the Hospice. It was built in 
1701, and annexed to the parish of Ste. Marguerite in 1802. 
It contains St. Louis receiving the Sacrament, byGassies, the 
Entombment of Christ, by Jollivet, a Descent from the Cross, 
a Resurrection, in grisaille, and a good altar-piece of St. An¬ 
thony performing the ceremony of marriage. Higher up is the 
Hopital Ste. Eugenie, a building formerly connected with 
the establishment of the Enfants Assistes (see p. 119). It 
was founded in 1660 by the bounty of M. Aligreand his lady, 
and was afterwards used as a supplementary hospital annexed 
to the Hotel Dieu , but is now devoted to the reception of sick 
children, under the patronage of the Empress (seep. 141). 
Strangers are admitted on Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 3. 
ft has another entrance in the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, at 
No. 124, opening into a court, at the further end of which is 
the private chapel of the hospital, a cruciform building, of 
Doric design, to which, however, the public are not admitted. 

The Rue de Charenton possesses a melancholy celebrity 
from the massacre of several hundred protestants of all ages 
and both sexes, Sept. 28, 1621. They were attacked and mur¬ 
dered by a party of foot-men, pages, and porters, while 
coming from a new protestant church they had had built at 
Charenton. The perpetrators of this crime went unpunished. 
The street at that time bore the name of rue de la Planchclte. 



284 


TENTH WALK. 


TE1TTH WALK. 

This lies within the 4 th arrondissement, the most conspi¬ 
cuous object of which is the 

Hotel de Ville, Place de l’Hotel de Yille.—In the earliest 
reigns of the third race, the meetings of the corps de ville or 
municipality were held in a house called la Maison de la 
Marchandise, situated in the Vallee de la Misere, west of the 
Grand Chatelet. They subsequently met near the Place St. 
Michel, in a honse called the Parlouer aux Bourgeois. In 
1357 the municipality purchased, for 2880 livres de Paris, the 
Maison de la Greve. or Maison aux Piliers, which had for¬ 
merly belonged to Philip Augustus, and was frequently the 
abode of royalty. Upon the site of this the Hotel de Ville was 
erected. The first stone was laid July 15, 1533, by Pierre de 
Viole, prevot des marchands, but the works were afterwards 
suspended, until i549, when Dominic Boccadoro, of Cortona, 
resumed them after a plan of his own (1). During the war of 
the Fronde, and still more during the revolution of 1789, the 
edifice was much damaged ; it was, however, preserved from 
further dilapidation in 1801, by being converted into the seat of 
the prefecture, and was repaired by Molinos. In 1837 it re¬ 
ceived immense additions, so as to render it nearly four times 
larger than it was before. The works were finished in 1841. 

Exterior. —The Hotel de Ville consisted in 1628 of a beau¬ 
tiful large building, in the style of the Renaissance, two stories 
high, enclosing a single court, and having its western front 
towards the Place de Greve, with two elevated pavilions at the 
northern and southern extremities, each Hanked by an elegant 
square overhanging tower. The old buildings occupy the 
centre of the present edifice, which has cost 15.000,000 fr. 
Each pavilion has a wide archway ; a range of windows with 
pediments, between small Corinthian columns, lights the ground 
floor; above is a long range of plainer windows, and niches 
filled with statues (2), the whole surmounted by a rich balus¬ 
trade. In the centre of the roof rises an elegant companile 
of recent construction. The clock marks the time of the 
Observatory, communicated to it by electricity. Over the 

(1) The key-sfone of a vault in the left portico of the central 
court bears an inscription stating that Marinus de la Vallee un-» 
dertook the continuation of it in 160G, and finished it in 1628. 
Another inscription over the central gate (Inside) shows that the 
central pavilion and belfry were finished in 1608 . 

(2) Those facing the Place <\e l’Rotel de Ville are —Southern pa* 


HOTEL DE VILLE. 285 

central door-way there is a bronze equestrian bas-relief of 
Henry IV., replacing one destroyed in 1789. The northern and 
southern facades are flanked by the extreme pavilions of the 
principal and eastern fronts. The eastern facade has 4 pavi¬ 
lions, with a central body adorned with 14 detached Corin¬ 
thian columns; the intermediate pavilions have noble entrances, 
with Doric vestibules leading into the 

Courts. —This vast edifice comprises three courts, two late¬ 
ral ones, of Corinthian and Composite architecture, and the 
central and most ancient one, which is approached from the 
western front by a flight of steps ; (1) an Ionic arcade runs all 
around it; under it, to the left on entering, is a fine full-length 
bronze statue of Louis XIV., by Coysevox, with bas-reliefs re¬ 
presenting Charity and Divine Vengeance, and adjoining is a 
flight of steps descending into the northern court. To the right 
is a statue of Charlemagne. (2) The lucarnes of this court are 
very beautiful and light. The western corners of the court are 
flanked by two engaged circular towers ending in lucarnes 
similar to the rest. The whole is roofed over with glass, and 
is sumptuously decorated with stucco and gilding, besides 
medallions in terra cotta, in the style of Luca della Robbia, 
representing Art, Glory, Peace, etc. The most remarkable 
object here is an elliptical double-branched staircase rising to 
the first story. Originally a mere provisional construction 
executed for the ball given to Queen Victoria on the 23d of 
August, 1855, it has now been rebuilt of stone and decorated 
with the most elaborate sculpture in the style of the Renais¬ 
sance. Under the arches supporting the stairs, a fountain 

vilion: Condorcet, Lafayette, Colbert, Catinat, Moliere, Boileau, 
Lavoisier, De La Reynie, and J. A. De Thou. Central part: Fro- 
chot, S. Badly, L. Turgot, Abbe de l’Epee, Rollin, Mathieu Mold, 
J. Aubry, Robert Etienne, F. Miron, Bude, Lallier, De Viole, Ju¬ 
venal des Ursins, Sully, Landry, Aubriot, Boyleaux, Jean Goujon, 
P. Lescot, Goslin, Philippe Delorme, De La Vacquerie, St. Vincent 
de Paule, Lesueur, Lebrun, Mansard, Voyer d’Argenson, and Per- 
rone. Northern pavilion : A. J. Gros, Buflon, A. de Harlay, 
Monge, Monthyon, Voltaire, D’Alembert, A. Pare, and Papin. The 
statues on the attics of the other sides represent Justice, Com¬ 
merce, the Muses, &c. 

(1) On the Right of stairs under this door-way, M. de Lamar¬ 
tine exposed his life with admirable courage on February 26, 

1 848, by declaring to an infuriated mob, that, as long as he lived, 
the red Rag should not be the Rag of France. 

(2) Around the frieze of this court were marble tablets, inscribed 
with the principal events of the life of Louis XIV. from i 659 to 
1689, and circular compartments in the spandrils of the arches 
were charged with the bas-relief portraits of several Prevots. 


286 TENTH WALK. 

composed of four genii supporting a tazza delivers its water 
into a spacious basin underneath, enlivened with genii in the \ 
act of swimming, 6cc., executed in white marble. On State 
occasions, this basin is bordered with rare exotics, and the 
splendid illumination and profuse decoration of this court 
render it a delightful appendage of the ball-room (see p. 288). 

The Salle du Trone. —The staircase to the right of the en¬ 
trance-passage leads to the landing-place on the first story, 
remarkable for a curiously ribbed vault, a monument of the 
age of llenry II. From this the Salle des Huissiers opens into 
the Salle du Tr6ne, a most magnificent apartment. It is 
94 feet by 36, with an altitude of 2 5 feet. The walls are 
adorned with velvet hangings, trimmed with gold. Two vast 
chimney-pieces, ornamented with recumbent statues of white 
marble, sculptured under Henry IV. by Biard and Bodin, oc¬ 
cupy the extremities. Over one of them are, richly executed, 
the arms of the City, being gules, a ship argent. The square 
compartments of the ceiling are charged with armorial bearings, 
and over the doors are paintings of Justice, Prudence, Labour, 
and Concord. Opposite the windows are four paintings by 
Sechan, representing Paris in the 5th, 12 th, 17th, and 19th 
centuries. This Salle is used for official banquets, and will 
conveniently hold 200 guests. (1) Adjoining this are the Salle 
du Zodiaque, with carvings on the wainscoting, by Jean Goujon, 
and four landscapes, by Coignet; and the Salon du Vote, 
with a ceiling painted by Schopin, representing the cities of 
France accepting the present Empire by 7,500,000 votes. 
These rooms are not public. A corridor to the right of the 
staircase leads to the Salle du Conseil, now called Salon Vic¬ 
toria, an elegant chamber, 66 feet by 37, with blue and gold 
hangings, adorned with busts of Queen Victoria, the Prince 
Consort, King William of Prussia, and the Czar Alexander II., 
presented to the City by those august personages. The walls 
are adorned with four large paintings by Yvon, relating to 
the history of Paris. The 68 councillors meet here. We 
now come to the 

State Apartments. —From the same staircase, a Corinthian 
gallery, elegantly fitted up, leads to the landing-place of the 
principal staircase of the River front, having three flights of 
steps, supported by Ionic columns, and ornamented with bas- 
reliefs by MM. Debau andBriou. Here is an equestrian statue 

(l) From its central window Louis XVI. harangued the popu¬ 
lace with the cap of liberty on his head, and General Lafayette 
presented Louis Philippe lo the people in 1830. This is also the 
room where Robespierre held his council, and where he at¬ 
tempted to destroy himself on the memorable 27 th of July, 1794 . 



HOTEL DE YTLLE. 287 

of Henry IV., in bronze, a copy of that on the Pont Neuf, by 
Lemot (1818). An antechamber with Flemish gilt leather 
hangings commences the suite; it is only remarkable for a 
bronze statue by Bosio of Henry IV. in his youth. Next is 
the Salle d’Introduction ,* its frieze is painted in arabesques 
by Court. The Salle de Jen, adorned with blue silk 
hangings, and a rich ceiling and frieze painted by Lachaise, 
leads to the Salon des Arcades, a magnificent saloon, 70 
feet by 40, and 22 feet in height, trisected by two rows 
of three lofty arches each, and furnished in a style of the 
most luxurious splendour. (1) It is of the Corinthian order, 
with gilt capitals and cornice; the central ceiling ornamented 
with a large allegorical painting by Picot, representing Paris 
rewarding the Muses and the attributes of art; in the back¬ 
ground is an assembly of the most eminent men of France. 
This painting is surrounded by ten hexagonal compartments 
charged with allegorical figures representing Theology, Me¬ 
dicine, Mechanics, Agriculture, Law, Commerce, Natural Phi¬ 
losophy, Chemistry, Justice, and Geometry. In the first sec¬ 
tion of this splendid chamber the compartments of the ceiling 
are charged with the signs of the Zodiac, and allegories of Night 
and Day, by Schopin. The grounds of the arches of the doors 
are painted with medallions, severally representing Francis I. 
and Henry IV. The ceiling of the extreme section, by Vau- 
chelet, is painted with genii holding scrolls with the names of 
the most famous artists known; the two central compartments 
represent Truth and Genius; the medallions over the doors here 
contain Louis XIV. and Louis Philippe; the latter however is 
considerably damaged. The walls are painted in elaborate ara¬ 
besques. In the centre is a circular divan, in which is a gilt 
pedestal of bronze, supporting the figures of Agriculture, Com¬ 
merce, and the Fine Arts. Gilt vases and chandeliers of ex¬ 
quisite workmanship adorn the mantel-pieces. It was here the 
Provisional Government first installed itself in 1848. Beyond 
this room is that for refreshments, called the Salo?i de Cafe, 
painted by Vauchelet. To it succeeds a spacious dining-room, 
with an ornamental frieze, containing subjects appertaining to 
the chase, the fisheries, &c., by Jadin. It will hold 150 
guests. The visitor is now ushered into the suite specially 
destined for grand occasions, where he will remark a degree 
of splendour and taste unequalled by any palace in Paris, 
the Tuilcries not excepted. The centre of this suite is 
occupied by the Grande Galerie des F6tes, with three 

(i) During the winter season the Prefect oflhe Seine gives some 
splendid balls, invitations to which may be obtained through the 
channel of the Ambassador, or of persons already presented. 


288 TENTH walk* 

spacious rooms at each end, a faint description of which 
we will now attempt in their regular order:— 1 . Salon 
Napoleon Ur. The ceiling and walls of this, as of all 
the following rooms, are gorgeously gilt on a white ground ; 
the order is Ionic, the furniture green damask interspersed with 
bees. Over the mantelpiece is a full-length picture of Napo¬ 
leon I. in his coronation robes, by Girard. The central 
space of the ceiling of this room is painted by M. Ingres, the 
subject being the Apotheosis of Napoleon ; the compartments 
represent the cities conquered by him.—2. First Salon des 
Arts. Rich Corinthian, with niches, containing mythological 
statues. In the tympans over the entrances are Painting, 
Poetry, and Music, frescos, by Landelle.—3. First Salle 
des Prevdts, to the left; so called from the busts of the 
Prevots des Marchands which occupy the spaces between 
the modillions of the cornice ; the series, which begins 
with Evreux, under St. Louis, in the year 1203, is continued 
in another room of the same name, and ends with Trudaine, 
1772. The ceiling is by Riesener, and represents Repose after 
Anarchy.—4. Grande Galerie des Fetes. This immense saloon, 
separated from the first and second Salon des Arts by two trans¬ 
verse arcades, the gilt cupolas of which support the orchestras, 
has a magical effect. The spectator is bewildered by a profuse¬ 
ness of decoration of every kind that baffles description. The 
Corinthian columns, with their gilt bases and capitals, the deli¬ 
cate sculpture and gilding of the compartments of the ceiling, 
the coves, painted by Lehmann, representing, in their penden- 
tives, man exercising his activity and talent overNature, Science, 
and Art, illustrated by 180 full-sized figures in 5G groups, in¬ 
dependently of the minor subjects over the windows, the rich 
chandeliers and costly furniture, form a unique ensemble of 
taste and art. Each of its 2 6 lustres will hold 105 wax lights. 
Communicating with this salle by open arches in the coves 
of the ceiling, there is a gallery, decorated with equal minute¬ 
ness, where, on festive nights, the guests may witness the 
brilliant scene without mixing among the dancers below. In 
the centre of the left-hand wall, three doors open into—5. 
The Salle des Caryatides , a splendid Corinthian refreshment 
room, with a gallery above, forming part of the one above 
mentioned. Fourteen graceful caryatides support the ceiling, 
painted in perspective, by Cosse ; the tympans over the doors 
below, painted by Benouville, represent Agriculture, Abun¬ 
dance, Astronomy, and the four Seasons. Two Ionic pas¬ 
sages, with elegant seats, and running parallel to the Galerie 
des Fttes, communicate with the staircase, thus procuring a 
free circulation of air. Here a door in the centre opens upon the 


hotel de ville. 289 

double-branched staircase leading to the court (see p. 285). 
Let the visitor picture to himself this beautiful hall (for such 
it must he called,) illumined with floods of light streaming 
from hundreds of tapers arranged in graceful symmetry around, 
clustered in cornucopias held by Cupids; or crowning the 
lustres depending from the ceiling ; elegant fountains playing 
under the arch which supports the stairs, and forming minia¬ 
ture cascades which, rushing through the artificial channels 
left between the costly flowers thickly planted around, find 
their way into the grottos beneath, where lovely genii are seen 
sporting in the cool waters, or peeping from behind the ever¬ 
greens ; let him imagine this scene ingeniously diversified in 
the other gorgeous apartments already described, the whole 
enlivened by all the wealth, beauty, and fashion the capital 
can muster, and he will come to the conviction that the fairy 
dreams of the Arabian Nights may fall far short of reality. (1) At 
the furthermost end of the Galerie des Fetes is—6. The second 
Salon des Arts, being a counterpart of the one already de¬ 
scribed at the other extremity. This gives access to—7. 
Salon de la Paix similar to the Salon Napoleon, painted by 
M. Eugene Delacroix. The second Salo?i des Arts also commu¬ 
nicates with—8. The second Salle des Prevdts, the ceiling of 
which, painted by Muller, represents the communes of France 
expressing their gratitude to Louis le Gros for breaking their 
chains.—From this room, or from its counterpart on the oppo¬ 
site side, the visitor descends by the superb double-branched 
staircase, crowned with the galleries already mentioned, sup¬ 
porting its richly sculptured ceiling pierced with skylights (the 
subjects of which, in stained glass, are allegorical of convi¬ 
vial pleasures), into the Doric vestibule communicating with 
the central court. The architect of these more than regal apart¬ 
ments of the Civic Prince of Paris is M. Lesueur. 

On the ground-floor, below the Galerie des FStes, is a large 
saloon of the Doric order, called the Salle St. Jean. It is 
used for civic purposes, public meetings of literary societies, 
etc. The offices occupy the rest of the building. Underneath 
are the kitchens, sufficient to provide a banquet for a thousand 
guests. The Hotel de Ville when completed, will contain 
upwards of 500 statues, busts, and medallions. (2) Architects: 

(1) Upwards of 7000 visitors have sometimes been admitted to 
the City halls; the rooms, forming a circuit of upwards of half a 
mile, require 971 4 tapers, and 2389 gas-burners, for their full 
complement of illumination. The present King of Italy was en¬ 
tertained here in 1 855 ; the Grand Duke Constantine and the 
King of Bavaria, in 1 857. 

( 2 ) The offices occupy 171 rooms. The clerks number 418. 

19 


290 _ TENTH WALK. 

MM. Godde and Lesueur. Tlie apartments are visible on 
Thursdays from 12 to 4, with a ticket to he had on application 
by letter to M. le Prefet de la Seine. 

On the fourth story of the north-east side of the Hotel de 
Ville, is the Bibliotheque de la Ville, established since June 
18, 1847. It occupies three rooms, including the reading-room, 
and three galleries, the largest of which is 120 feet long. It is 
rich in scientific and commercial works, in foreign publications, 
and works on the municipal history of the cities of France, 
It also possesses, in a separate room, G000 volumes of official 
American publications, and 300 manuscript volumes of the 
registers of the Parlement of Paris. The total nftmber of vo¬ 
lumes is above 65,000. At the top of the staircase leading to 
the upper gallery a head of Cybele, found in 1657 near the 
church of St. Eustache, and evidently Roman, is worthy of 
notice. Open daily, from 10 to 3, except on holidays. 

The Peace de l’IIotel de Ville, formerly Place de Greve, 
has been the scene of most of the public “deeds of blood” that 
have occurred in the capital. Once the place of execution for 
criminals, it has also been stained with the blood of the 
victims of revolution. (1) Facing the Hotel de Ville on 
this square there are two new buildings, designed by M. 
Baltard : the northern one containing offices belonging to the 
Municipality; the southern one the offices of the Administra¬ 
tion de VAssistance Publique. These two edifices are exact 
counterparts of each other; they have three stories resting on 
arcaded basements; all the roofing is of iron. 

Behind the Hotel de Ville are two vast barracks; the larger, 
called Caserne Napoleon, is built for 2,500 men, and is of an 
irregular pentagonal form ; its architecture is Ionic, and its 
pediments are charged with eagles and trophies. It occu¬ 
pies 8,000 sq. metres, and is connected with the Hotel de Ville 
by a subterranean passage. The other, Caserne de Lobau, is 
its counterpart, except in size, and contains 500 cavalry of 
the Garde de Paris. Behind the former barracks the Mairie 
of the 4th arrondissement has been erected, opposite which 
we see the church of 

St. Gervais, —inaugurated in 1420, and enlarged in 1581. 
Over the northern aisle of the choir rises a tower about 130 
feet high, the lower part of which is of ancient, the upper of 
modern, construction. The western front of St. Gervais was be¬ 
gun in 1616 by Desbrosses, Louis XIII. laying the first stone. It 

(i) Among the persons of note executed here there were the 
Conn6table de St. Pol, the Count de Montgommeri (see p. 169 n.), 
Marshal Marillac, Ravaillac, the Marechale d’Ancre, the Mar¬ 
quise de Brinvilliers, Cartouche, and Damiens. On March i 7th, 


ST. GERVAIS* 291 

consists of three ranges of coupled columns, successively of 
the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, with niches, con¬ 
taining the statues of St. ProtasiusandSt.Gcrvais, and crowned 
with a segmental pediment flanked with the statues of Moses 
and St. John. The rest of the church is Gothic, and cruci¬ 
form, with single aisles. The works of art in this church, be¬ 
ginning from the right on entering, are : facing the aisle, a 
copy of Rubens’s Descent from the Cross, which adorns the 
Cathedral of Antwerp, by Morain ; 1st chapel: Sle. Philomene, 
by Smith; three medallions on each side, with passages from her 
life. Above is a good Crucifixion. 2d. A curious picture, of the 
17tli century, of the Deliverance of Souls from Purgatory at the 
intercession of St. Gervais. 3d. The statue of St. Catherine, 
by Cortot, in marble ; a painting, by Vibert, of the Virgin 
blessing France, and a St. Nicholas, also repeated in the win¬ 
dow, in good old stained glass. 4th. South transept: the 
Tongues of Fire; also St. Ambrose refusing entrance to 
Theodosius, by Couder; statues of the Virgin, Religion 
and Faith, by Rude. 5th. A fine Ecce Homo, by Rou- 
get, and Christ giving St. Peter the Keys, by Jonquiercs. The 
stained glass in the window, representing the apostle Paul before 
Festus, is by Pinaigrier. 6th. A fine Decapitation of St. John 
the Baptist, in the style of Guercino. The glass in the window, 
by Pinaigrier, represents the Judgment of Solomon. 7 th. Ste. 
Genevieve consoling an afflicted woman, and Jesus with Martha 
and Mary, by Philippe de Champagne. 8th. A monument to 
Chancellor Letellier (1685), a sarcophagus of black marble, 
supported by colossal white marble heads ; at the ends are 
beautiful full-sized figures of Religion and Fortitude ; the chan¬ 
cellor reclines on the sarcophagus, with a genius weeping at his 
feet. There is also a spirited plaster Descent from the Cross, an 
Ecce Homo, sculptured by Cortot, and the Good Samaritan, 
painted by Forestier. 9th. The Lady Chapel behind the apsis 
of the choir is one of the most beautiful in Paris; the vaulting 
ribs of its roof unite in two different points, from the 
first of which they descend in a clustered pendant, and 

1848, a monster manifestation took place here in support of the 
Provisional Government, and on April 16th following an attempt 
to overthrow that Government was foiled by the steady attitude 
of the National Guard. The new houses facing the Seine occupy 
the site of many a historical building, among which we may 
mention the Hotel de Sic.ile or d’Anjou, inhabited in the i4tli 
century by Louis II., duke of Anjou, and king of Naples, Sicily, 
and Aragon; two hotels, the property of Jacques de Bourbon, 
constable of France, and inhabited, in 1391 , by Blanche de 
Navarre; and a turreted house inhabited by Searron and Mmt\ 
de Mainlenon, on the sile of the present Cafe de la Tourelle. 


292 1ENTH WALK. 

from the other in an elaborate open-worked crown, a 
chef-d’oeuvre both in design and workmanship. Around it 
is an inscription, partly ancient, thus : parfaite en Van 
1417, peinte en 1842. The three front windows to the east 
are filled with some rich specimens of stained glass by Pi- 
naigrier, representing the histories of Ste. Anne and the Virgin. 
A splendid Gothic altar of modern execution, adorned with a 
statue of the Virgin, and four smaller statues of the Evangelists, 
face the entrance. The decoration of the chapel is the conjoint 
work of Messrs. Baltard, architect, and Delorme, painter ; 14 oil 
paintings on the walls are by the latter ; those in the nave of 
the chapel represent the epochs of happiness of the Virgin’s life ; 
the Annunciation, Visitation, Maternity, and Assumption. In the 
sanctuary of the chapel are the eight Christian virtues, Resig¬ 
nation, Fortitude, Repentance, Justice, Charity, Hope, Truth, 
and Humility. In the following vestibule, Jesus walking on 
the Waves, by Dubusc. 10th chapel: St. Margaret of Scot¬ 
land washing the feet of the poor, byGassies; Moses smiting 
the rock, byGuichard. Adjoining it is the captivity of St. Peter, 
by Heim. 11th. North transept: the Martyrdom of Ste. Juliette 
and her son St. Cyr, by Heim ; also a picture by Albert Durer, 
of the nine sufferings of Christ, dated 1500 ; it is concealed by 
curtains, but is readily shown to visitors for a small fee. 12th. 
Christ at the Feast of Cana, by Jouvenet. Here, upon applica¬ 
tion, the visitor is introduced into a private oratory, the wains¬ 
coting of which is painted in the richest style by the elder 
Francks, a Dutch master of the 16th century; the subjects 
comprise the whole history of our Saviour’s Life, Death, and 
Resurrection. 14th. A model in wood of the western front 
of the church, serving as an altar-piece; 15th. the Bap¬ 
tism of Christ, and the Fall of Man, by M. Caminade. In the 
window are St. John the Baptistand St. Nicholas in stained glass, 
bearing date 1620. Facing the aisle is an exhumation of St. Pet- 
ronilla, by Guercino. The modern stained glass in the choir has 
been executed after the designs of Eugene Delacroix. Above the 
screen opposite the pulpit, is the Eternal Father surrounded by 
angels, by Perugino. Paul Scarron, the husband of Mme. de 
Maintenon, Philippe de Champagne, and many other distin¬ 
guished persons, were buried in this church. 

Striking into the rue de Jouy, east of this, the visitor will 
bid adieu to the modern rue de Rivoli to plunge into one of 
the oldest quarters of Paris. (1) At No. 7, lie will find the 

(l) Most of the houses of this locality suffered greatly from the 
effects of artillery in the days of June 1848, the insurgentshaving 
transformed this quarter into an all but impregnable stronghold 
by the scientific arrangement of their barricades. 


ST. PAUL ET ST. LOUIS. 293 

Ildtel d’Aumont, built by Mansard; and further on the rue 
Charlemagne, where, at No. 14, the Passage Charlemagne 
crosses the court of the Hdtel de Jassaud, or d’Aguesseau, 
once the site of a palace. An octagonal engaged tower of the 
time of Francis I. is still to be seen in a corner of the court, 
which has coupled Ionic pilasters running round, and some 
ornaments indicating its former state. 

This passage leads to the rue St. Antoine ; at No. 120, is the 

Lycee Charlemagne, the building of which belonged to the 
college of Jesuits founded in 1582. Adjoining this we see the 
elegant church of 

St. Paul et St. Louis, —begun in 1627, on the site of a 
chapel belonging to the adjoining convent of the Jesuits, founded 
by Cardinal de Bourbon in 1582. It was finished in 1g41, 
aud Cardinal Richelieu performed the first mass in it in the 
presence of Louis XIII. and his court. This magnificent front 
is approached by a flight of steps; it is 144 feet high, and72 
broad at the base, and has three ranges of Corinthian and Com¬ 
posite columns. Interior .—This structure is cruciform, with 
chapels on each side of the nave, communicating with each 
other. Over the transepts of the church rises a lofty dome, 
in the pendentives of which are sculptured figures of the evan¬ 
gelists ; and, above, four figures in grisaille of Charlemagne, 
Clovis, Robert, and St. Louis. A rich cornice and gallery 
surmount the Corinthian pilasters which stand in front of 
each pier. Inis church was pillaged of all its riches at the 
revolution of 17 89; but a profusion of marble is still to be 
seen on the high altar, and round the door-ways; the rails, 
too, which separate the high altar from the nave, are of black 
and red marble. The works of art, beginning from the left on 
entering, are, 1st chapel: a Iloly Family. 2d. St. Louis pray¬ 
ing, by Besson. 3d. St. Mary Magdalen, by Lefebvre. 4th. 
Christ offering his Heart, 5th. Eastern transept: a black 
marble slab to the memory of Bourdaloue, buried on the 
spot. Above the arches are two paintings, viz., the Agony in 
the Garden, by Delacroix, and the Conversion of St. Paul, by 
Chautard. 6th. A good Mater Dolorosa in marble. There are 
four frescoes, by Decaisne, on the walls of the choir, representing 
the four evangelists. On the piers of the arches opening into 
the choir, on both sides are black marble slabs with inscrip¬ 
tions, showing that the hearts of Louis XIII. and XIV. were 
deposited here, and that Anne of Austria and the Duke Regent 
of Orleans severally caused these inscriptions to be placed. 
7th chapel (right side): the statue of St. Vincent de Paule. 8ih t 
Western transept: Paintings of Moses and the brazen serpent, 
$pd Louis XIII, offering St. Louis the dedication oi this 





294 TENTH WALK. 

9th. St. Isabelle, sister of St. Louis, offering a church to the 
Virgin, by Philippe de Champagne, loth. St. Jerome, by Lc- 
febvre. 1 lth. St. Peter administering Baptism, by Latil, and 
an excellent old Holy Family; and 12th. The Baptism of 
Christ. Beyond the church is the sacristy, containing some 
good paintings, portraits of the successive cures of the church ; 
and further on is the chapel of the catechists, ending in a cir¬ 
cular recess, painted on a ground rendered impenetrable to 
moisture, by Valbrun, representing Christ calling the children 
unto him. The architect of this magnificent church was Father 
Berrand, a Jesuit. 

At No. 143, in the rue St. Antoine, is the 

Hotel de Sully. —This edifice is remarkable as the work 
of Ducerceau, and the residence of the celebrated minister 
whose name it bears. It is in good preservation, and its 
court, which is large, is richly adorned with sculpture. 

At No. 212, the boarding-school of M. Favard, is a good 
specimen of the age of Henry IV. At No. 21 G bis is 

La Visitation, a small Calvinist church built by F. Man¬ 
sard, in 1G32, for the Dames de la Visitation.—The dome 
rests on four arches, between which are Corinthian pilasters 
crowned with a cornice. The porch is accessible by steps. 
The interior is adorned with scroll work, wreaths of flowers, 
&c., but contains no pictures. Fouquet was buried here in 
l G80. Service is performed here in French by the pastors of 
the Oratoire, on Sundays and festivals, at 12/ 2 . The convent, 
destroyed in the revolution of 17 89, was very extensive. 

The rue Castex and rue de la Cerisaic lead to the 

Government Deptit des Poudres et Salpctres. Percussion 
caps are manufactured here for the use of the army. 

The rue Delorme leads hence to the 

Grenier de Reserve, situated on the Boulevard Bourdon. 
—This immense storehouse w r as begun by order of Napoleon, 
in 1807, as a depot for the grain and flour required for four 
months’ consumption of the city, and completed in 181G. 
It is 2,1 GO feet in length by G4 in breadth, and is 32 
feet high. Beneath is a range of cellars, under which four 
w r ater-cuts were constructed for the purpose of turning mills. 
Every baker in Paris is obliged to keep 20 full-sized sacks of 
flour constantly deposited here, and may warehouse as much 
in addition as he pleases, on payment of a moderate charge. 
The building will contain 80,000 sacks; the cellars are used 
as a supplementary entrepot for wine. For admission, apply at 
the bureau, in the Place de FArsenal. 

On the adjoining Boulevard Bourdon a ham market or fair 
is held eyery year just before Easter; it lasts three days* 


295 


THE ARSENAL. 

In the rue de Sully is 

The Arsenal. —About 1396, a depot for artillery was built 
upon this spot, hut was destroyed by an explosion in 1563. 
Charles IX. reconstructed it on a larger scale. Henry IV. in¬ 
creased it, and created the office of grand-master of the artillery, 
in favour of Sully. The valuable library, called Bibliotheque 
de Paulmy, originally formed by the Marquis de Paulmy 
d’Argenson, was deposited here; to this collection were 
added that of the Duke de la Valliere, and several others, 
when it took the title of Bibliotheque de 1’Arsenal. During 
the Restoration it was called Bibliotheque de Monsieur, 
having been purchased by the Count d’Artois, afterwards 
Charles X.; but since 1830 it has resumed its appellation 
de 1’Arsenal. The entrance is decorated with a fine haut- 
relief, representing Victory, by Dantan, senior. This li¬ 
brary is rich in history, foreign literature, and poetry, 
particularly in Italian works; and contains about 300,000 
printed volumes, and 6,300 manuscripts, among which 
are some beautiful missals. The ground floor is fitted up with 
book-cases in two long galleries. The reading-room and first-* 
floor, were inhabited by Sully, and are shown to strangers 
on application from 10 to 3. Most of the ceilings are carved, 
and Sally’s private apartments are richly gilt and painted. 
In one of the compartments is the portrait of Catherine de 
Medicis; in another, the entrance of Henry IV. into Paris. 
There are also marble busts of Henry IV. and Sully. The 
library is public from 10 to 3, except on Sundays and holidays. 

Facing the Arsenal is a large building, containing bar¬ 
racks for the Line ; it occupies the site of the ancient and 
once magnificent convent of the Celestins, whose church, 
built by Charles V., contained a greater number of tombs of 
illustrious personages than any in Paris. It was celebrated for 
the chapclle d’Orleans, containing splendid mausoleums ap¬ 
propriated to the remains of the brother of Charles VI. and 
the descendants of the house of Orleans-Longueville. Most of 
the tombs of the chapel were transported by the patriotic archi¬ 
tect, M. Lenoir, to the Musee des Monuments Frangais, rue 
des Petits Augustins, and two remarkable ones are at the 
Louvre in the Musee de la Sculpture Moderne. The mortal 
remains of the Duchess of Bedford, daughter of Jean Sans Peur, 
buried here in 1432, are now at St. Benigne’s, at Dijon. (!) 

The adjacent Quai Morland formerly gave access by a 
wooden bridge to a small island called lie Louviers containing 

(l) During the demolition of part of the ancient church in May 
1 847, several tombs were discovered, one of which was that of 
a daughter of King John of England, surnamed Lackland. 


296 TENTH WALK. 

wood yards. Here vast store-houses for the city are in course 
of construction. The lie Louviers communicates with the lie 
St. Louis hy the wooden Pont de VEstacade. 

At No. 6, Quai des Celestins, Count Lavalette has partly 
restored and partly rebuilt a splendid old hotel, the sculptures 
of which, though chiefly modern, are conceived in the taste 
of the time of Francis I., and are worthy of inspection. 

At the corner of the rue St. Paul, No. 4, are a few re¬ 
mains of the Hotel de St. Paul, long a royal residence; the 
greater part is of comparatively late date, and is now occupied 
by a company for distributing through Paris the filtered water 
of the Seine. In a long spacious room are placed four rows 
of charcoal filters, receiving the water from the river, which is 
drawn up by a steam-engine. The clarified water thus obtained 
is perfectly sweet and wholesome. Strangers are admitted. 

At the corner of the rue des Lions, in the rue St. Paul, is a 
small square turret of the age of Henry IV. All the ground 
between the rue St. Antoine, the moat of the Bastille, the ri¬ 
ver, and the rue du Figuier, was formerly occupied by build¬ 
ings which Charles V., in 13GO-5, purchased and formed into 
a palace, the above mentioned Hotel de St. Paul, so called 
from its proximity to the church. Within the enclosure 
were several edifices, the names of which may still be traced in 
some of the streets built on their site, such as the Hotels de 
Puteymuce, de Beautreillis, de Lyons, &c. This palace was 
abandoned hy the kings of France for the Palais des Tour- 
nelles ; ard, in the 16th century, the buildings were sold. 

By striking into the rue des Barres, the visitor will see be¬ 
fore him, at No. 1, rue du Figuier, the 

Hotel de Sens, one of the most interesting remains of the 
middle ages extant in France.—It was erected in the 15th cen¬ 
tury, and formed part of the Hotel St. Paul ; Tristan de 
Salazar, Archbishop of Sens, repaired it in 1581, and Cardinal 
Duprat, Chancellor of France, enlarged it considerably. Va¬ 
rious distinguished personages inhabited it at different times ; 
among others, Louis de Bourbon, Cardinal de Guise, Bertrandi, 
Keeper of the Seals, and Cardinal Duperon. The gateway, 
is flanked hy two overhanging peaked turrets. High up, to 
the left, the visitor will see an eight-pounder ball lodged in the 
old grey wall; underneath is “ 28 Juillet, 1830.” The win-* 
dows are curious; and there is a remarkable turret in the 
south-western corner of the court. In the rue de FHotel de 
Ville, to the left, is another projecting turret, with quaintly-, 
ornamented windows. This hotel, a model of a noble mansion 
qf its epoch, is still in good preservation, 



PONT NEUF. 


297 


ELETE1TTH 7TALE. 

This walk comprises the islands, which lie partly in the 
4 th, and partly in the 6th arrondissement. 

The lie de la Cite was, until 1607, divided into three is¬ 
lands, the two smaller ones being the Isle aux Treilles, which 
commenced at the rue du Ilarlay, a street occupying the exact 
site of the arm of the Seine which formed the separation ; and 
the Isle d la Gourdaine, beginning from the present carriage¬ 
way. It was on the latter that the Templars were burnt,in 1314. 
(see p. 253 n.) The present island is connected with the 
quays on both sides by the 

Pont Neuf. —This bridge was begun by Ducerceau, under 
Henry III., who laid the first stone on May 31, 1578, and was 
finished in 1 604, at Henry IV.th’s expense, under the direc¬ 
tion of Marchand. It was reconstructed and lowered in 1852. 
It consists of two parts; the northern one contains seven cir¬ 
cular arches, the southern one only five. Its total length is 
1020 feet, and its breadth 78; it has semicircular recesses 
with stone seats, and forty-two ornamental lamp-posts. 

On the square area, at the junction of the two parts of 
the bridge, a bronze statue of Henry IV. was erected by his 
widow, Marie de Medicis. Her father, Cosmo de Medicis, had 
sent her a bronze horse for this purpose, and a figure of the 
king to suit it was cast in France. This statue was destroyed 
in 1792 ; and on its site Napoleon intended to erect a magni¬ 
ficent granite obelisk of the height of 200 feet, when the events 
of 1814 put an end to the project. In 1818, the present statue, 
cast by order of Louis XVIII., and paid for by public sub¬ 
scription, was inaugurated with much ceremony. The model 
was by Lemot, and the statue itself, formed out of several 
others, including those of Napoleon and Desaix, was cast by 
Piggiani. Underneath the pedestal was placed a magnificent 
copy of the Henriade of Voltaire. The height of this beau¬ 
tiful statue is 14 feet, its weight 30,000 lb., and it cost 
337,860 fr. The pedestal, of white marble, is approached by 
seven steps of the same, running all round, and enclosed by 
a railing. On the faces are the following inscription : 

Henrici Magni, paterno in populum animo natissimi principis, 
sacram efligiem, civiles inter tumultus, Gallia indignante, dejee- 
tain, post optatum Ludovici XVIII. reditum ex omnibus ordini- 
buscives cere collato reslituerunt. Necnon et elogium cum effigie 
sinuil abolitum lapidi rursus inscribi curaverunt, D.p. die XXY, 
pie!}*,: Aug. M.P,CCC,XVIII, 




ELEVENTH WALK. 


298 

Errico IV., Galliarum Imperatori Navar. R. Ludovicus XIII. Fi¬ 
lins ejus opus inchoalum et intermissum, pro dignitate pietatis 
ct imperii plenius et amplius absolvit. Emin. D. C. Richelius 
commune votum populi promovil. Super illustr. viri De Bullion, 
Boutillier P. aerarii F. faciendum curaverunt M.D.C.XXXV. 

The latter existed on the pedestal of the old statue. The 
lateral faces have two bronze bas-reliefs ; in one, Henry IV. 
is seen commanding food to he distributed to the inhabitants 
of Paris, who, during the siege of the capital, had taken refuge 
in his camp; in the other, the king, entering as a conqueror, 
stops in the Parvis de Notre Dame, and orders the provost of 
Paris to bear his message of peace to the inhabitants. Behind 
the statue, a double-branched flight of stairs leads to a floating 
bathing establishment, and a swimming-school (1). 

From the middle of this bridge the stranger passes into the 

Place Daupiiine, formed in 1608, and named after the Dau¬ 
phin, afterwards Louis XIII. It is triangular; in the centre is 
a fountain, after the designs of Percier and Fontaine, erected in 
1803, to the memory of General Desaix, who fell at the battle 
of Marengo. The bust of the hero, crowned with laurel by the 
allegorical figure of France, is placed on a circular basement. 
The following inscriptions will be remarked : 

Allez dire au Premier Consul que je meurs avec le regret de 
n’avoir pas assez fait pour la posterite. 

Landau, ICehl, Weissenbourg, Malte, Chebreis, Embab<5, les 
Pyramides.Sediman, Samanliout, Kane, Thebes, Marengo, furent 
les timoins de ses talents et de son courage. Les ennemis l’ap- 
pelaient le juste; ses soldats, comme ceux de Bayard, sans peur 
et sans reproche; il vecut, il mourut pour sa patrie. 

L. Cli. Ant. Desaix, no a Ayat, department du Puy-de-D6me, 
le XVII aout MDCCLVIII; mort a Marengo le XXVprairial an VIII 
de la Republique MDCCC. Ce monument lui fut 6Iev6 par dcs 
amis de sa gloire et de sa vertu sous le Consulat de Bonaparte, 
Pan X de la Republique MDCCC1I. 

This “place,” formerly the residence of the officers of the Par- 
lement, was the scene of some festivities under Louis XIV. * 

The Quai de l’Horloge, where new buildings for the Prefec¬ 
ture of Police are now in progress (2), leads to the Boulevard 
du Palais, where we see the imposing front of the 

Palais de Justice. —This vast edifice is nearly as old as 
the Palais dcs Thermes, (see p. 388,) and was used for public 

(1) On the Pont Neuf there formerly stood the Pompe de la Sa- 
maritaine, so called from a bronze bas-relief on it, of Jesus and 
the woman of Samaria. It was built in igo4 to supply water to 
the Tuileries and the Louvre, and demolished in i s 13 . 

( 2 ) The old Hotel was adorned with fresco-portraits of flic 
nrovosts of the old corporations. These have been removed 
and will be replaced in the new constructions. 


PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 299 

purposes long before the invasion of the Franks, since in 17 84 
a bas-relief, representing Mercury, apparently of the 4th cen¬ 
tury, was found during some excavations in a part of the 
building facing the rue de la Barillerie, now the Boulevard. 
On the same stone was the figure of a ship, being the well- 
known symbol of Paris. The kings of France of the first race 
resided in this palace, and those of the third, until about the 
end of the 14th century; Robert, son of Hugh Capet, made 
considerable additions to it about the year 1000 ; it was en¬ 
tirely rebuilt by Philippe le Bel in 1313 ; Louis XI., Charles 
VIII., and Louis XII., extended it, and Francis I. made it his 
residence in 1531. One of its principal halls, called Grande 
Salle du Palais, now replaced by the Salle des Pas Perdus, 
erected in 1022 by Desbrosses, was destroyed by fire in 1018. 
There was an immense marble table there, which was used 
for the royal banquets, and at certain periods of the year, it 
performed the office of a stage, on which the clerks of the 
palace, called Clercs de la Basoche, diverted the public with 
satirical performances and farces. In 17 70 a fire broke out 
in the buildings adjoining the Sainte Chapelle, (see p. 304) 
and completely destroyed them (1). 

Exterior. —The front, facing the Boulevard du Palais (2), 
consists of a central body and two wings enclosing an ample 
court, separated from the street by an iron railing, richly 
wrought and gilt. The central body is decorated with four 
Doric columns, supporting four colossal figures above the en¬ 
tablature, which is crowned with an attic surmounted by a 
lofty quadrangular dome. It receives access from a stately 
flight of steps, occupying upwards of half the breadth of the 
court. Fronting the Boulevard, the lateral wings have facades 
consisting of four Doric columns, resting upon bossaged 
basements, and extend north and south, also forming the rue de 
la Sainte Chapelle, thus enclosing a second court, which gives 
access to the splendid edifice of that name, and to the II6tel 
de la Prefecture de Police, (see p. 303.) To the north the 
style of the building gradually changes from the Italian to the 
mixed Gothic of the 14th century, beginning with a body 
crowned with two segmental pediments, flanked by small 

( 1 ) Nearly the whole of this palace facing the Boulevard 
and Ihe Quai de l’Horloge has been entirely rebuilt or under¬ 
pinned. The whole sum expended on the Palais de Justice in 
the course of 12 years is 22,000,000 fr. When completed, the 
buildings, including the Prefecture of Police, will he more than 
a kilometre in circuit. The present architects are MM. Viollet- 
Leduc and Dan met. 

(2) Opposite the Palace formerly stood the Convent of St* 
Barlheleiny. 



300 ELEVENTH WALK. 

turrets, and ending with a buttressed wing executed according 
to the original designs, which connects the palace with a large 
square tower, called La Tour cle VHorloge. (1) The design of 
this wing is continued along the Quai de l’Horloge, and termi¬ 
nates at a round tower, called the Tour cle Cesar, between 
which and the adjoining Tour Bornbee is the entrance to the 
Conciergerie (see p. 302.; It was here the guillotine carts 
used to receive the victims of the Reign of Terror. Further on 
is a third round tower, crowned with battlements, called the 
Tour d'Argent, connected with the former. This portion 
also belongs to the Conciergerie. The splendid clock 
which now adorns the side of the palace facing the Quai 
aux Fleurs, was replaced there in 1852. (2) The figures 
of Piety and Justice which flank the dial-plate, the caryatides 
supporting the circular arch, and the angels supporting the 
coat-of-arms which crowns the pediment, are by Germain 
Pilon. It is profusely painted and gilt. In front of the prin¬ 
cipal court of the Palace criminals used to undergo the pun¬ 
ishment of the carcan, or pillory, which was abolished in 1848. 

Interior. —On entering the vestibule, which is Doric, from 
the principal court, the visitor will, at the further end to his 
left, perceive a door which gives access to the upper portico 
of the Sainte Chapelle (see p. 304.) An elegant passage starls 
here at right angles from the vestibule, unfortunately masking 
the beautiful porportions of that monument. The passage gives 
access to the new buildings facing the Boulevard and rue de la 
Sainte Chapelle, which contains the offices of the Procureur 
Imperial and other functionaries, and to a staircase descending 
to the ground-floor under an arch communicating with both 
the principal and the second court. Opposite the principal 
entrance in the vestibule a staircase leads to the Cour Impe- 
riale d'Appel, and at the lower end, is the Salle des Pas 
Perdus. This Salle, situated above what were the kitchens in 
St. Louis’s time, gives access to the Aile des Tours, opposite 
the Seine, which contains several offices of the Civil Tribunal, 
and to the Court of Cassation, the libraries, &c. It is Doric, 
and is bisected by a line of lofty arcades, with a double- 
arched ceiling. It is 21G feet by 84, and contains a fine mo¬ 
nument by Dumont, erected in 1822, under one of the arches, 

(1) The bell, called Tocsin du Palais , now replaced in this 
tower, repeated the signal from St, Germain l’Auxerrois for the 
massacre of St. Bartholomew. 

(2) Charles V, had it constructed in 1307, it being the first large 
clock seen in Paris, Ho also appointed a clever artisan, Henri 
de Vic, a German by birth, to regulate it. The decorations >vevQ 
finished in teas, and repaired In tees, under Loui$ xiv. 



PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 30 i 

to the memory of Malesherbes. It consists of abasement and 
two Ionic columns, surmounted by a pediment, with his statue 
by Bosio, and the inscription : 

Strenue semper lidelis regi suo, in solio veritatem, presidium 

in carcere attulit. 

Two statues, France and Fidelity, by Bosio, occupy the lateral 
plinths. The panel of the basement contains a bas-relief by 
Cortot: Louis XVI. in conference with the Counsel for his de¬ 
fence. This, removed in 1830, was replaced in 1846. 

Opposite this monument a passage, under a double-branched 
staircase, leads to a glazed court, giving access to the chambers 
of the Tribunal cle Premiere Instance, the series of which is 
completed in the upper gallery, accessible by the staircase 
itself. All this part is new, and elegantly conceived ; in the 
gallery are the busts of Le Camus, Argouges de Fleury, and 
Augran d’Alleray, civil lieutenants under the old regime ; and 
those of Presidents Berthereaux, Try, and Moreau. 

Returning to the Salle des Pas Perdus, a passage parallel 
to it gives access to the Court of Assize by a double-branched 
staircase; the ceiling of this Court is painted by Jean and Bon 
Boullongne, but disfigured by iron bars required lor its support. 
The Procureur Imperial sits to the right of the judges ; the 
jury are on the same side along the wall; the prisoners’ bench 
is opposite, each prisoner having a gendarme by his side ; the 
counsel for the defence sit in front of this bench (1.) 

A passage between the branches of the staircase leads to 
the Cour cl’Appel Correctionnelle ; and opposite the stair¬ 
case is a long narrow passage, in the style of the times of 
Francis I. At the end of this gallery is a statue of St. Louis, 
standing against the wall of one of the towers, in which the 
will of Louis XIV., immediately on its being received by 
the Parliament, was enclosed in a recess, and bricked up, 
in order that its execution might become impossible. A 
smaller gallery to the left, at right angles with the former, 
having over its entrance medallions of Charles V., Justinian, 
Louis XIII., and Charlemagne, has its panels filled with portraits 
of the most eminent French lawyers, and leads to the Chambre 
cles Requetes, a large hall, with statues of Tronchet and 
Portalis, and a painting representing the Roman Ambassadors 
before the Areopagus of Athens. 

The Court of Cassation holds its sittings in a spacious room, 
built by St. Louis, and afterwards used as a throne-room. 
At a later period the Grande Chambre of the Parlement used 

(l) Persons desirous of witnessing a trial should go early to 
And seats, else they will have to wait their turn at the bottom of 
the staircase. 


302 ELEVENTH WALK. 

to hold its sittings there. This court is adorned with statues 
of the Chancellors d’Aguesseau and l’Hopital, by Deseine. 
The other courts are very ordinary apartments. 

The chief entrance-court gives access on the right to the 

Conciergerie, the most interesting part of the old palace, 
on account of its many melancholy associations relating to 
the first French revolution. It was the prison of the royal 
palace, and its name is derived from the concierge (keeper), 
who was the chief of a jurisdiction called Bailliage du Palais, 
had the title of bailli, and enjoyed several privileges. It has 
at present a floating population of about 120 persons (see p. 
77). From the entrance the visitor descends into a vesti¬ 
bule divided into two aisles by a row of columns sup¬ 
porting pointed arches. This was formerly the Salle des 
Gardes of Louis IX. * it has now been restored to its original 
state. The last window to the right, situated between the 
first two towers, fronts a dark passage where new parloirs 
have been constructed on the plan of those of the Prison 
Mazas (see p. 76). The rest of the prison has been rebuilt on 
the cellular system, and contains 100 cells ; the court being 
also divided into compartments like those described at p. 76. 
The prison of Marie Antoinette, now the sacristy of the chapel, 
has been preserved. It is a low flat-vaulted chamber with 
plain groins. It contains three paintings, by Simon, Pajou, 
and Drolling, representing scenes connected with the latter 
days of that Queen’s life. In one, the Queen is in the Temple 
(see p. 253) bidding adieu to Madame Elisabeth and the 
Duchesse d’Angouleme ; behind them is Simon, the notorious 
cobbler, who by his ill-treatment caused the death of Louis 
XVII. Another painting represents the Queen alone in prison, 
and in the third she is taking the sacrament (1) previous to her 
execution. Her crucifix is still shown here. A black marble 
slab in the wall, flanked by inverted torches, bears a suitable 
inscription (2). In this same prison Princess Elizabeth, and 
also Robespierre, were confined. The window looks into the 
yard of the female prisoners ; it is adorned with plain stained 

(1) M. de Lamartine, in his Ilistoire des Girondins , says that 
she refused the sacrament from a priest sworn to the Republic, 
no other being allowed her; hut it was the Abbe Mangin who 
administered the sacrament, to her, having introduced himself 
into her prison under the disguise of a gendarme. 

( 2 ) The following is the inscription above alluded to, said to 
have been written by Louis XVIII.:— 

“ D.O.M. Hoc in loco Maria Antonia Josepha Joanna Austriaca, 
Ludovici XVI. vidua, conjuge trucidato, liberis ereptis, in carce- 
rem conjecta, per dies LXXV1. aerumnis luctu et squalore adfecta, 


C0NCIERGER1E. 303 

glass, part of which is arranged in a circle of about twelve 
inches diameter, showing the dimensions of the window at 
the time Marie Antoinette occupied the cell. The Chapel is 
simple, and elliptically arched; above, opposite the altar, 
is a heavily grated gallery for the women, the men sit¬ 
ting below. It was in this chamber the Girondins held their 
last banquet before their execution. Prisoners are taken to a 
room apart to confer with their counsel. The room in which 
the present Emperor of the French was confined, after the affair 
of Boulogne, cannot he visited, as it is occupied by the family 
of one of the chief functionaries of the prison (1). A dark 
passage leads to a room on the ground floor of the Tour 
cl’Argent, where St. Louis is said to have kept his treasure. 
It is a lofty chamber with a ribbed vault. From one of the 
windows is seen an arched staircase leading to the Seine, and 
closed by a heavy grated door. The vaulted passage commu¬ 
nicating with it is said to have been formerly used to convey 
to the Seine the dead bodies of the victims of the celebrated 
oubliettes of the palace (2). Can be visited on applying for 
a ticket to the Bureau des Prisons, Cour du Harlay. 

The new buildings of the Prefecture of Police adjoining the 
Conciergerie are enough advanced to give an idea of the general 
plan. The principal entrance, facing the west, consists of a 
portico of ten columns, flanked by wings looking on both 
Quays. The colonnade is connected by a central body with 
the Palais de Justice. That portion of the new buildings, 
which is already finished, contains the prison of the Depot 
Judiciaire, formerly called Souricieres, and now constructed! 
on the cellular system like the prison of Mazas (see p. 75), 
The edifice forms a quadrangle enclosing a vast court glazed 
over, and divided into separate compartments, each of which 
is occupied by a single prisoner for one hour. Greco, Impe- 
ratori, Trabucco, and Scaglioni were confined here in 1864 

sed propria virtute innixa ut in solio, ita et in vinculis majorem 
fortuna se praebuit. A scelestissimis denique hominibus eapite 
damnata, morte jam imminente, aeternum pietatis, fortitwdinis, 
omniumque virlutum monumentum hie scripsit, die XYI. Oeto- 
bris, MDCCXCI1I. Restituto tandem regno, career in sacrarium 
conversus dicatus est. A.D. MDCCCXV1., Ludovici XV11I. regnan- 
tis anno XXII. Comite de Cazes a securitate publica Regis minis- 
tro, pradecto aedilibusque curantibus. Quisquis hie ades, adora„ 
admirare, precare.” 

(1) in one of the old rooms there was a ring in the ceiling;, 
from which an iron cage is said to have hung, containing the 
remains of Ravaillac. Louvel, who stabbed the Due de Rerri, 
was confined in one of the old cells. 

(2) This prison has several times been the theatre of dreadful 


304 ELEVENTH WALK. 

previous to their trial for conspiracy against the Emperor’s 
life. The prison communicates with the Palais de Justice by 
a subterranean passage, through which the prisoners are con¬ 
ducted for trial or examination. In the second court of the 
Palais de Justice we find the 

Sainte Chapelle, erected in 1245—8, by the architect 
Pierre de Montreuil, for the reception of the relics (including 
the crown of thorns and a piece of the true cross), bought of 
Baldwin, Emperor of Constantinople, by St. Louis. 

Exterior. —The front of this splendid building consists of an 
under-croft porch of three Gothic arches, intersected by 
buttresses, two of which end laterally in two engaged spired 
towers, connected on the outside by a gallery and parapet 
crowning the upper portico. Between the towers is a crocketed 
gable, surmountiug a splendid rose-window constructed by 
Charles VIII. The spires are octagonal, and encircled with 
a crown of thorns at half their height. The upper windows 
are surmounted by crocketed canopies, connected by an 
open-worked parapet crowning the whole, on which we see 
eigth statues of angels, cast in lead, by Geoffrey Dechaune. 
The height of the edifice is 139 feet; its length 118 feet, 
and breadth 55 feet. The roof is steep and surmounted 
by a lofty spire, 108 feet in height, richly crocketed and 
gilt, and adorned at its base with the statues of the 12 
apostles, cast in zinc. It was erected in 1853, to replace ano¬ 
ther loo feet high, burned down in 1630. 

Interior. — The visitor for the present enters the upper 
chapel by the winding staircase of one of the towers. It 
consists of a nave and semi-circular choir, comprising a space 
of 108 feet by 34 ; the former has four windows on each 
side, the latter seven all around and lancet-arched They are 
separated by clusters of three detached columns, with bases and 

massacres; the most recent was on the 2d and 3d of September, 
1792 , when 239 persons were inhumanly murdered. Those who 
can obtain access to the Bibliotheque de la Conciergerie by an in¬ 
troduction to the librarian, will there see the book of the ecrous , 
or register of the prisoners confined in the Conciergerie from the 
time of its foundation. Itcontains the names of Ravaillac, Char¬ 
lotte Corday, Robespierre, the present Emperor, etc. Here also is 
the vellum-bound folio which lay open on Maillard’s desk, where 
the names of the intended victims were inscribed. Its pages are 
stained with blood, imprinted by the fingers of the ruffians who, 
after having despatched one victim, would turn over its leaves to 
see who was to be murdered next. In a drawer are contained 
the receipts for 24 francs, the fee paid for every murder. Ano¬ 
ther drawer contains lettres de cachet. The mask of Cartouche, 
and a list of his 500 associates, are also preserved here. 







SAINTE CHAPELLE* 305 

Capitals ; the whole is gorgeously painted and gilt in lozenges, 
diamonds, &c., with fleurs de lys interspersed. The basement 
is adorned with elliptical arches from pier to pier ; the quatre- 
foils of the tracing are tilled with old frescoes in wax, revived, 
representing the deaths of various martyrs ; under the third 
window of the nave two of the arches on each side recede 
into an ambry adorned in continuity with the rest. Close 
to that on the right is a small door giving access to a cham¬ 
ber, called Oraloire de Louis IX., where that monarch used 
to retire in order to hear mass from a small window looking 
into the nave. At the extremity of the choir is a low vaulted 
square chapel, the roof of which is supported by seven arches 
resting on slender columns; in the front spandrils are two 
angels. Above it is a Gothic canopy for a statue. A 
screen of three trifoliate arches, resting on low columns, 
with perforated spandrils, and richly gilt, connects this chapel 
on either side with the main basement. Two beautiful winding 
staircases of wood, richly gilt, give access to the roof of the 
small chapel; that to the right is an exact copy of the left- 
hand one, which is of the 13th century, and was preserved from 
destruction by the care of M. Lenoir. The statues of the 
Apostles, modelled with great precision after some of 
the original ones which were discovered on the Mont Vale- 
rien, during the construction of the fort, stand on brackets in 
front of the piers. All the windows are tilled with beau¬ 
tiful stained glass of 1248, which escaped destruction during 
the revolutions. (1) Some portions, which were missing, have 
been successfully supplied, according to the cartoons designed 
by Steinheil. That of the great rose-window is splendid ; 
under it a gallery, fronted with a Gothic balustrade, rests upon 
pointed arches, the tympans of which are charged with quaint 

(i) The subjects therein represented in various compartments 
are, beginning from the left on entering, ist window : the Crea¬ 
tion of Ihe World, the Fall, the History of the Patriarchs; 2d. 
and 3d. the History of Moses; 4th. Scenes from the Books of Jo¬ 
shua, Judges, and Ruth; 5th, the Histories of Gideon, Jephtha, 
and Samson; 6th. the Prophecies of Isaiah—the Tree of Jesse, 
comprising the Genealogy of the Kings of Judah ; 7th. the Histo¬ 
ries of John the Evangelist, the Virgin and the Infancy of Jesus ; 
8th- the Divine Mission of Jesus, his Passion, Resurrection, and 
Ascension; 9 th. the Legend of St. John the Baptist, the Prophecies 
of Daniel; loth. the Visions and Prophecies of Ezekiel ; 11th. the 
Legends, Prophecies, and Lamentations of Jeremiah, the History 
of Tobiah ; 1 2 th. the History of Judith; 1 3 th. Various other sub¬ 
jects taken from the Old Testament ; 14th. the History of Saul 
and David ; i5th. the History of St. Louis, and the Translation of 
the Crown of Thorns. 


20 



306 ELEVENTH WALK. 

devices of a religious character. The visitor, on descending one 
of the winding staircases, enters the undercroft chapel, once a 
parochial church, now completely repaired. Detached columns 
support the ribs of the vault, and form two narrow aisles. 
The spandrils are charged with has reliefs, most of which are 
of the time. The floor is rich in tombstones. A well-endowed 
chapter and prelacy was founded here by St. Louis, and 
became remarkable for its litigious propensities, so admirably 
satirized by Boileau in his immortal Lutrin. That poet was him¬ 
self buried in the lower chapel, where his tombstone is still to 
be seen (see p. 358.) The Sainte Chapelle with its relics cost 
St. Louis a sum equal to 2,800,000 fr., and its restoration has 
cost l,164,718fr. In 17 89 it was converted into the depot 
of the archives of the Courts of Justice, not, however, until 
the internal decorations of both chapels had been destroyed. 
During the repairs old plans of the building as originally de¬ 
signed were found (1). Architect, M. Boeswilwald. Admittance 
daily from 10 to 4 by a fee or with ticket from M. le 
Ministre de la Maison de I’Empereur et des Beaux Arts. 

Opposite to the Sainte Chapelle, is the Hdtel du Tresorier, 
afterwards Cour des Comptes, a fine building of the time of 
Louis XV., now the residence of the Prefect of Police. (2) 

On leaving this court, we find to our left the 
Pont au Change. —Upon this spot stood the Grand Pont, 
a wooden bridge, originally the only communication between 
the lie de la Cite and the northern bank of the Seine. In 
1141, Louis VII. fixed the residence of money-changers here, 
and hence its name. Several times destroyed and rebuilt, it 
was burnt down in 1621, and reconstructed in 1647 of stone 
with houses on each side, demolished in 1788. It was re¬ 
built in 18 60 of three elliptical arches, and black marble 
slabs record its reconstruction under Napoleon III. The fine 
new edifice in front of the Palais de Justice is the 

Tribunal de Coalmerce.— Erected on the site once occu¬ 
pied by the Career Glaucini under the Roman Empire, and 
later by the Church and Convent of St. Barthelemi. The 
present edifice, which also comprises the Chambers of the 
Conseils des Prud’hommes (seep. 68), is Corinthian, partaking 
of the style of the Renaissance, and profusely sculptured! 
The interior is divided into a number of aiulience-halls, 
waiting-rooms, offices, &c. The principal audience-hall is 
painted by M. Robert Fleury. Two particularly elegant por- 

(1) In 1842 , while prosecuting the restoration of this church, 
a human heart enclosed in a coffer was found under the altar* 
which some antiquarians assert to he the heart of St. Louis. ’ 

(2) The bureaux of the Cour des Comptes are now Quai d’Orsay. 


PONT ST. MICHEL, 3 Of 

lions of the edifice are worthy of a visit. The first is the 
double-branched elliptical staircase situated under the cupola 
which rises from the centre of the hull ding ; the surroundin'*' 
architecture is florid Corinthian, ar.d consists of engaged 
pilasters alternating with niches, wi ndows, and the principal 
door of the first storey. Above tb e entablature there rises an 
attic, affording light through rec tangular windows, flanked 
with caryatides, and the whole is crowned with the cupola,, 
pierced with eight circular windows. Next to this there is ■ 
the Cour d’Honneur, a vast court glazed over, and sur¬ 
rounded with two tiers of galleries resting on fluted Corinthian 
columns with pedestals, the upper gallery being fronted with 
balustrades. Above this there is an attic with windows 
flanked with caryatides as before. The sculpture is every¬ 
where very rich. This court, which contains two bronze 
busts, one of Colbert, and the other of L’Hopital, is the Salle 
des Pas-Perdus, or waitiiijg-hall of the place (see p. 66). 

On the ground south of this edifice a monumental caserne 
has been erected. The whole of this part of old Paris was • 
granted by Dagobert to bis goldsmith and minister St. Eloi, 
and called La Ceinture de St. Eloi. St. Marcel was buried 
in one of the streets which intersected this ground, called the 
rue de la Calandre. The legends connected with this quarter 
of Paris are innumerable. 

The Boulevard is continued to the Left Bank across the 

Pont St. Michel, so called as early as 1424, from a* 
neighbouring church. Having fallen down in 1616, it was re 
built in stone, with houses on the sides. These were taken down ? 
in 1804, and it has now been rebuilt of 3 arches, in order to bring 
it in a line with the Boulevard. (Seep. 389.) Its present dimen- - 
sions are 55 metres by 30. The cost of re-construction was : 
1,800,000 fr. It was here the insurgents of June 1848 formed : 
their most scientific barricade, demolished by cannon ou¬ 
tlie 24th. 

East of this, is the Petit Pont, now reconstructed of one * 
single arch. (1) A bridge, the only communication between 
the lie de la Cite and the southern bank of the Seine, existed - 
at this spot before the Roman conquest. It was carried away,, 
by inundations or ice, thirteen times between the 13th and 
17th centuries, and rebuilt of wood, with houses on it, in 1659.. 
I 11 1718 it was burned down, but soon after rebuilt of stone.. 

( 1 ) This bridge was defended by a fori called the Petit Chdtelet ' 
which was destroyed by the inundation of 1296 . It was rebuilt! 
In 1 3G9, by Ilugues Aubriot, prdvdt of Paris, who also built the • 
Bastille. It afterwards became a prison for debtors. This forW 


308 ELEVENTH WALK. 

From the rue Neuve Notre Dame, the visitor will enter the 

Parvis de Notre Dame, a spacious area, which was built 
on till 1196, when Maurice de Sully, 68th bishop of Paris, 
pulled down the houses, and formed a suitable approach to the 
Cathedral. No. 2, place du Parvis, once a foundling hospi¬ 
tal, is now the Bureau central d’admission dans les Hopi- 
taux (see p. 136). Opposite to this is the 

Hotel Dieu. —This is the most ancient hospital in Paris, its 
foundation being attributed to St. Landry, bishop of Paris, in 
660, under Childeric II. It was at first an asylum for the 
poor, and it was not until the 13th century that patients 
were admitted. Philip Augustvis is the first king known to 
have been a benefactor to it, and by him it was styled Mai - 
son de Dieu. St. Louis enlarged the hospital, exempted it 
from taxes and duties, and assigned an annual revenue to it. 
Henry IV., Louis XIII., Louis XIV., Louis XV., Louis XVI., 
and several private individuals contributed to its improvement 
by donations and legacies. In 17 89 itwas called Hospice 
d’ Humanite. It is now about to be replaced by another in 
course of construction on the Quai Napoleon, at a cost of 
25,000,000 fr., and covering a space of 22,000 square 
metres, or 5 acres and a half. In the present building 
the first hall after the vestibule contains a marble statue 
by Bosio, of the celebrated philanthropist M. de Monthyon, 
who died in 1820, and was a great benefactor to the 
hospitals of Paris. Opposite this statue is one of St. Vincent 
de Paule. On the walls are portraits of Bichat, Derault, 
Moreau, Dupuytren, Boudon, Mery, Desault, and Thibault. 
There is besides an elegant marble monument to Desault 
and Bichat. Crossing the Seine by an inner passage, we 
reach a hall containing six inscriptions on marble comme¬ 
morating the benefactors of the establishment, and statues of 
Henry IV., St. Landry, and St. Louis. In the adjoining court 
is a venerable and interesting chapel, of the 6th century, since 
it is mentioned by Gregory of Tours, who lodged for some 
time in the buildings annexed. It was once known as the 
church of St. Julien lePauvre, and has an entrance by the street 

was considered as the real gate of Paris under St. Louis, just as 
the Grand Chatelet (see p. 262 ) was the entrance of Paris on 
the northern side. In a tariff for the toll to be paid at the Petit 
Pont, fixed by St. Louis, it is ordained that a monkey for sale 
shall pay 4 deniers toll; butif it belong to a joculateur, or jung- 
ler, the latter may save the amount by making the monkey 
dance before the toll-taker. Hence the origin of the proverb : 
payer en monnaie de singe. A ballad-singer was also allowed to 
sing a song instead of toll. 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 309 

of that name. It consists of a nave and aisles, with a choir 
elegantly groined. Pillaged by the Normans in the ninth 
century, it afterwards became the property of the Abbey 
of Longpont, which derived a good revenue from its well, 
supposed to be miraculous. The best paintings here are : 
Christ exhorting the Jews to give to Caesar what is Caesar’s; the 
Raising of Lazarus, by Lelay ; the Resurrection of Christ; the 
Judgment of Solomon, and the Flagellation. Admission to the 
hospital on Thursdays and Sundays, from 1 to 3 ; strangers 
with passports, daily, on application, at the bureau (seep. 139.) 
At the eastern extremity of the Hdtel Dieu, is the 
Pont au Double, built in 1634.— Adouble (twoliards) was 
paid as toll on it till 17 89, whence its name. It has now been 
rebuilt of one arch. North of this, is the stupendous fabric of 
The Cathedral Church of Notre Dame. —The precise 
dates of this splendid edifice have never been accurately fixed. 
It appears certain that a temple existed on this spot in the 
time of the Romans, the foundations being discovered in 1711, 
when nine large stones were found: one a votive altar raised 
by the Nautce Parisiaci , to Jove, and another bearing the 
effigy of the Gallic deity Hesus. They have often been de¬ 
scribed, and are now r at the Palais des Thermes (see p. 
38 8.) On the site of this temple a church dedicated to St. 
Stephen was erected about 365, in the time of Yalentinian I. 
This was rebuilt by Childebert, about 522, and is spoken of 
by Fortunatus, bishop of Poitiers, who says that it contained 
thirty columns, “ ter decern ornata columnis” (1) Ro¬ 
bert, son of Hugh Capet, undertook the reconstruction of this 
church, which was called Notre Dame, from one of its cha¬ 
pels which Childebert had dedicated to the Virgin. The first 
stone was laid by Pope Alexander III., who had taken refuge in 
France, while Maurice de Saliac was bishop of the diocese. The 
high altar was consecrated in 1182 by Henry, legate of the Holy 
See; and in 1185, Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who had 
come to Paris to preach the third crusade, officiated in the 
church for the first time. The west front was finished by 
Bishop Maurice de Sully in 1223, during the reign of Philip 
Augustus; and the southern transept with the portal in 12 57, 
during the reign of St. Louis, according to the following in¬ 
scription renewed on the w r all of that part of the edifice :— 
Anno Domini MCCLV1I. Mense Februario idus secundo 
Hoc fuit inceptum Christi genitricis honore. 

Kallensi Latliomo vivente Iohanne magistro. 

The architect’s name w as Maistre Jelian de Chellcs. The north 

(l) See Duchesne, tome i, p. 464. The church was consecrated 
May 31, 1864, after undergoing many improvements. 


ELEVENTH WALK. 


"310 

t cm transept and portal, as also the canopies surmounting the 
! lateral windows, were erected in 1312, by Philippe le Bel, with 
i part of the proceeds of the confiscated estates of the Templars. 

' The Porte Rouge, on the northern side, was erected in 1407 
Iby'slean Sans-Peur, Duke of Burgundy, the assassin of the 
•Duke of Orleans, as an expiation for his crime. The internal works 
<of the choir were begun by order of Louis XIV., in 1699, and 
[finished in 1714. The pavement of Notre Dame was so much 
below the level of the Parvis, in 1748, that a flight of 13 steps 
lied to it. In that year the ground was lowered as at present. 

Exterior. —This edifice is a regular cruciform church, 
'having an octagonal eastern end. At the western end are 
two lofty square towers, which were intended to support 
.spires. Behind them there is now a new spire surmounted 
by a gilt cross and just erected in place of one of the 13th 
.century, taken down in 1797. Its height is 135 feet from the 
■roof, and 280 from the floor of the church. The lead with 
which it is coated weighs 300 tons. It is adorned with 
several statues. The dimensions of this church were en¬ 
graved on a brass tablet, in old French verse, and fixed 
.against one of the pillars; they were stated to be as 
follows:—length 390 feet, width at transepts 144 ft., height 
■of vaulting 102 ft., height of western towers 204 ft., width 
of western front 128 ft. The length of the nave is 225 ft., 
width 39 ft.; the roof is 356 feet in length, formed of chesnut 
(timber, and rising 30 feet above the vaulting; height of win¬ 
dows, 36 feet; it will hold 21,000 persons. The foundations 
are laid 18 feet below the soil, on a-hard stratum of gravel. 
The general style is of the pure pointed architecture, with vast 
[flying buttresses fronted by crocketed pinnacles ; those parts 
•built in the 14th century being closely copied from what pre- 
•viously existed. The western front is at once the finest and 
imost remarkable feature. Three ample portals lead into the 
nave and aisles. They each form a series of retiring arches, 
with angels, saints, See. in the intermediate mouldings. The 
portals are bisected by square pillars (1); the tympans of their 
•ogives are richly-sculptured. The same style exists also in 
the portals of the transepts. The subjects of the sculp¬ 
tures which adorn these portals are no where treated in 
a form so attractive as in Victor Hugo’s Notre Dame de Pa- 

(l) That of the central one was removed on Jan. ist, 1852, on 
the occasion of the thanksgivings for the renewal of the Presi¬ 
dent’s powers, hut has since been replaced. In a cavity within 
the pillar was found a bronze plate, containing an inscription 
to the effect, that the first stone of the new entrance was laid in 
i77i ; and also a modal in copper, with the effigy of Louis XV., 
.and the inscription “ Ludcrvicus XV., Bex Christianissimus.” 









CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 311 

ris. The ogive of the Port ail du Milieu represents the Last 
Judgment, in three parts, viz:—1. the angels sounding the 
last trump, the tomhs opening, and the dead rising; 2. the 
separation of the righteous from the wicked; 3. the Sa¬ 
viour on his throne, worshipped by the Virgin and St. John 
Hie Evangelist, and accompanied by angels bearing emblems 
of the crucifixion. Among the sculptures of the arch may be 
remarked figures of Moses and Aaron; the Saviour treading 
beneath his feet the wicked, whom Satan is dragging to hell; 
the rider on the red horse at the opening of the second seal; 
the blessedness of the saints, &c. The sides of this entrance 
have 24 bas-reliefs, representing 12 virtues, with their 
opposite vices. Beyond these are four other bas-reliefs : the 
offering of Abraham; the departure of Abraham for Canaan ; 
Job beholding the destruction of his flocks and herds by a tor¬ 
rent; and Job reproved by his wife. The statues of the 12 
apostles, which filled the niches of this portal and the 
southern one, and were destroyed at the revolution in 
1793, have been replaced by new ones, copied from the origi¬ 
nal drawings; the patriarchs and kings of the Old Testament, 
that adorned the other portal, will also be replaced. The 
pillar of the Portail Ste. Anne, on the right, is orna¬ 
mented with a statue of St. Marcel treading beneath his feet a 
dragon, which had disinterred a woman to devour her. In the 
tympan above the door are several compartments, in which are 
sculptured,—Joseph putting away Mary ; Joseph brought back 
by an angel; Joseph taking the Virgin to his home; the Re¬ 
velation of the birth of John the Baptist; the Annunciation; the 
Visitation ; the Nativity ; the Angel appearing to the Shepherds ; 
Herod holding his Council; the W ise Men on their way to 
Bethlehem ; the Offering of the Wise Men ; and the Presentation 
in the Temple. Above these are figures of the Virgin and Child 
accompanied by angels, Solomon praying, and St. Marcel. On 
the pillar between the two doors of thePor/m7 de la Vierge, on 
the left, is a statue of the Virgin and Child. The tympan is 
in three parts, namely,—figures of six prophets, the Death of 
the Virgin, and the Crowning of the Virgin. The arch above 
is adorned with figures of angels and saints. Above and 
beyond the niches are various bas-reliefs, representing subjects 
taken from church history. The most interesting bas-reliefs 
of this entrance are the 12 signs of the zodiac, and the agri¬ 
cultural labours of the 12 months of the year, on the door-posts. 
The sixth sign, Virgo, is represented by a sculptor forming a 
statue, supposed to be that of the Virgin. On the right side of 
this pillar are sculptured the age of man in six stages, from 
youth to decrepitude; on the left, the different seasons 


312 ELEVENTH WALK. 

of the year, in six bas-reliefs. The two lateral doors are 
ornamented with much admired iron-work, excutcd by Bis- 
cornette about 1580. The buttresses on each side of the doors 
have each a niche, in which were statues of Religion, Faith, St. 
Denis, and St. Stephen. Immediately above the three doors 
is a gallery of small pillars supporting trefoils, called Galerie 
des Bois, which formerly contained 28 statues of the kings of 
France, from Childebert I. to Philip II. All these, executed 
in the 13lh century, were destroyed in 1793, but 20 of them 
have now been replaced. Above will be seen the Galerie de 
la Vierc/e, now, as it formerly was, decorated with a co¬ 
lossal statue of the Virgin between two angels holding chan¬ 
deliers ; right and left are figures of Adam and Eve. Above 
this gallery is the large rose-window between the towers, and 
in each of the latter are pointed arches, over which runs a 
lofty gallery of slender shafts, called the Galerie des Colonnes, 
and continued round the sides ; above rises the last division of 
the towers, each side occupied with coupled windows, and 
rich buttresses at the angles crowned by an open-worked battle¬ 
ment of quatrefoils; they are ascended by a staircase of 389 steps 
from the rue du Cloitre. (1) The southern side of the 
church is plainer than the northern, having been partly 
blocked up by the archiepiscopal palace. The portal 
of the southern transept, called Poriail St. Marcel , is 
pinnacled and ornamented with bas-reliefs. Those in the 
tympan of the arch represent St. Stephen: 1, instructing the 
Jews ; 2, answering the Jews’ arguments ; 3, insulted by 
the Jews; 4, his lapidation; and 5, his burial. Above 
is a figure of Christ pronouncing his benediction ; two 
angels at his sides are in the attitude of adoration ; the 
arches are ornamented with small figures of angels, prophets, 
patriarchs, bishops, See. Above the porch is the great rose- 
window, and over it a smaller one; the gable, flanked by two 

(1) The towers of Notre Dame afford one of the finest views of 
Paris that can be imagined. A spire, above the transept, was 
pulled down in 17 92, for the lead, and six bells were melted. 
The cathedral formerly possessed a fine peal of bells, of which 
only one remains in the southern tower; it was baptized Em¬ 
manuel Louise-Therese, in 1632, in the presence of Louis XIV., and 
his queen Therese. It is called the bourdon , weighs 32,ooO lb., 
and Ihe clapper 976 lb. The other bell, named Marie, weighing 
25,000 lb., was broken and melted down in 1792, as were eight 
bells of the northern tower. In the southern tower there are 
now four new bells for 1 be clock, weighing respectively 2 ,oOo 
kil., 1,335 kil., 925 kil., and 737 kil. There is also anolher bell 
here, brought from Sebastopol, The mechanism of the clock is 
curious, 



CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 313 

turrets, supports a statue of St. Stephen. On the sides of the 
entrance are eight bas-reliefs, taken from the saint’s life. The 
fronts of the lateral canopies contain bas-reliefs representing 
St. Martin sharing his mantle with a mendicant; and Christ, 
with two angels, carrying the soul of St. Stephen to heaven. 
In niches are two large statues of Moses and Aaron. Adjoin¬ 
ing this is the new Sacristy of the church, communicating by 
a short passage with one of the chapels of the choir. It is of 
recent construction, and its Gothic design is in keeping with 
that of the church. On the central pillar of the grand nor¬ 
thern porch, Portail Septentrional , is a statue of the Virgin 
crushing the dragon. In the tympan above are the Nativity, 
the Adoration of the Wise Men, the Presentation in the Temple, 
the Massacre of the Innocents, the Flight into Egypt, and five 
scenes of the Deliverance of Demoniacs. Above sits a monarch 
presenting a sealed volume to suppliants kneeling. The arches 
are ornamented like the others. The statues which filled, 
the niches were destroyed in 1793. The Porte Rouge is 
surmounted by a triangular canopy. In the tympan of 
the arch, are Jesus Christ and the Virgin crowned by 
an angel; on the right and left, Jean Sans Peur, Duke of 
Burgundy, and Margaret of Bavaria, his duchess, kneeling. 
In the arches are groups of the miracles of St. Marcel. Be¬ 
tween the Porte Rouge and the eastern extremity of the church 
are seven bas-reliefs, representing : the death of the Virgin; 
the funeral of the Virgin; the Assumption ; Christ surrounded, 
by angels; Christ and the Virgin on a throne; the Virgin at 
the feet of Christ in agony; and a woman about to sell herself 
to the Devil, delivered by the Virgin. 

Interior .—It consists of a nave and choir with double aisles 
and lateral chapels. The pillars of the nave are four feet in 
diameter, and support pointed arches resting upon enriched 
capitals. The pillars of the aisles are alternately simply 
circular and clustered with 12 slender columns each. The 
triforium presents tri-composed windows crowned with 
ogives, the tympans of which are (on the southern side 
only) perforated by a single circular aperture. The cle¬ 
restory, which is the same throughout nave and choir, 
consists of a series of pointed double windows. The vaulting 
is hexapartite throughout; its stone work is only three or 
four inches thick. Underneath the rose-windows of the 
transepts are light galleries of very slender shafts supporting 
pointed trifoliate arches, with open spandrils. The chapels 
are plain throughout. The rose-windows are elaborate and ex¬ 
ceedingly beautiful, and still preserve their stained glass of the 
13th century; that of the chapel windows is chiefly modern. 


314 ELEVENTH WALK. 

The walls of the transepts are adorned with ogive tracery. (1) 
The organ is remarkably fine; it is 45 feet in height, 3G in 
Ibreadth, and contains 3484 pipes. The high altar was pulled 
•down, at the revolution of 17 89, but under the empire it was 
re-erected, and such of the works of art as could be collected 
were restored. The lateral chapels of Notre Dame were 
formerly remarkable for their splendour, the walls being 
•covered with marble, or finely-carved wainscoting, and 
‘Containing sumptuous tombs belonging to noble families. 
These were stripped of their riches in 1793 ; many of them, 
however, have been repaired. The church having but re¬ 
cently been entirely reopened after the extensive repairs it has 
undergone, none of the altars and paintings which adorned the 
chapels have as yet been restored to their places, and the 
only ornaments visible at present are the key-stones of the 
ajvhes, which are painted in the Byzantine style. (2) 

Choir. —The visitor will, in the right aisle, find a person who 
will admit him to the Sacristy on taking a ticket, price 50 c. It 
consists of a spacious and lofty hall, with three windows in the 
pointed style, decorated with the portraits of 24 archbishops of 
[Paris, from St. Landry, who lived in the time of Charlemagne, 
:to Archbishop Afire, who fell in the insurrection of June 1848 
;and is represented as on his death-bed (see p. 281.) The 
dbs of the ceiling spring from the canopies of niches contain¬ 
ing statues of saints and angels. Well-designed ambries are 
sunk into the wall, and the furniture of the room consists of 
(Oaken presses containing the precious church utensils and vest¬ 
ments for which this cathedral is celebrated. Here will be 
&am crozicrs, mitres, and crosses, sparkling with precious 

(1) Immense vaults, extending the entire length of the nave, 
’were formed in 1666 and 1711, for the interment of the arch- 
ibisliops, canons, etc., of the cathedral. They were profaned 
•during the Reign of Terror; the bodies, including the entrails 
•of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., were taken out and cast into the 
;sewers,and the leaden coffins melted down into bullets. During 
the present repairs othervaults have been discovered, containing 
^various tombs and coffins, with several curious relics, besides the 
body of Isabella of Hainault, mother of Louis VIII. ( 11 89.) 

(2) Under each tower may be seen a large circular aperture in 
the vaulting, through which the ropes passed from the belfries 
above. On the wall of the northern tower, in the aisle, we see 
a bas-relief of 1464, forming part of the tomb of Etienne 
Yver, removed from the chapel of St. Nicholas. The sculpture 
represents the soul ascending from the grave to the celestial re¬ 
gions, while the body, which is seen beneath, is being consumed 
by worms. At the seecond pillar of the nave there was a co¬ 
lossal statue of St. Christopher, erected by Antoine des Essars, 
in 1413 ; it was removed in 1785, 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 315 

stones ; the robes worn by Pius VII. at the coronation of Na¬ 
poleon I. (1); several series of most gorgeous robes, profusely 
embroidered in gold and silver ; the mask of Archbishop Affre, 
taken 24 hours after his death, the ball with which he was 
struck and the two vertebrae that received it. Among the 
church-utensils, a splendid ostensory will be remarked, which 
was used at the baptism of the Duke of Bordeaux. It is studded 
with precious stones producing a most dazzling effect. There 
is also a pyx presented to the church by St. Louis, a remark¬ 
able specimen of the taste and workmanship of the 13th cen¬ 
tury. There are also one of the loth, and another of the lltli 
centuries. A statue of the Virgin and Child, executed in silver, 
and of the size of life, stands on one of the presses ; it was 
given to the church by Charles X. Opposite this stands the 
bust of Archbishop Affre, and full-length portraits of Mgr. de 
Quelen, the predecessor of Archbishop Affre, by Perdreau, and 
of Archbishop Sibour, his successor, who was murdered at the 
porch of St. Etienne duMont see p. 4 08 n.), by Court, complete 
the series of curiosities preserved here. On leaving this 
room a short passage to the right opens into the Salle du Con - 
seil, a room not so lofty as the former, lit by four ogive 
windows. The only furniture it contains is a series of oaken 
seats, occupied on council-days by the archbishop and his 
canons, and two paintings, one a full-length portrait of Arch¬ 
bishop Afire, and the other representing the death of that pre¬ 
late on the barricade of the Faubourg St. Antoine, both by 
Lafon. This sacristy has cost one million of francs, and was 
inaugurated in April, 1854. 

On leaving the Sacristy, the visitor will find to his left, in 
the third chapel of the choir, a splendid monument erected to 
the memory of Mgr. Affre. The figure of the prelate, exe¬ 
cuted in white marble by Debay, is reclining on the barricade 
where he received his death-wound ; his hand still holds aloft 
the olive-branch, the emblem of peace, and his last words: 
“ Puisse mon sang etre le dernier verse !” are written above. 
The countenance bears the expression of exquisite pain mingled 

(l) At the sacking of St. Germain l’Auxerrois and the arcli- 
- bishop’s palace, in i83i, the populace broke into the sacristy of 
Notre Dame, and, headed by otiicers of the National Guards, de¬ 
stroyed every thing that came within their reach. The damage 
thus occasioned was immense ; the coronation robes of Napo¬ 
leon, and the splendid dresses he presented to the bishops and 
the chapter on the occasion of that ceremony, were torn up for 
the sake of their gold embroidery. They have, however, since 
been repaired. A celebrated artist who was making a most ela¬ 
borate picture of the interior of Notre Dame, having left it on the 
easel in the vestry, it was cut into a thousand pieces. 



316 ELEVENTH WALK. 

* 

with resignation, admirably conceived by the artist. The 
basement of the monument is enriched with a haut-relief, re¬ 
presenting the Archbishop going towards the barricade, and 
preceded by a young man bearing an olive-branch. National 
guards and soldiers are in the act of expressing their gratitude 
for his noble endeavour to stop the effusion of blood. 

The fifth chapel, next to the sacristy, is that of St. Geraud, 
Baron d’Aurillac, remarkable for having been the place where 
the young Dauphin, son of Louis XVI., was buried in 1795. (1) 
It now contains a marble slab recording the death of Cardinal 
Garibaldi, who died here in 1853. The sixth chapel, that of 
the Count d’Harcourt contains a splendid monument after the 
designs of Pigalle, to the memory of that nobleman, who died 
in 17 09. His figure is seen in a reclining posture, half con¬ 
cealed by the coffin in which he is to be enclosed. The lid of 
the coffin is held by a weeping genius, while at the other end 
Death shows that his hours are numbered. Opposite this 
monumenLthere stands a fine colossal statue of white marble, 
of the Virgin in a sitting posture, holding the Saviour on her 
knees. The windows of the 7th chapel represent, in stained 
glass, a variety of Scripture and legendary subjects in nu¬ 
merous compartments. In the 8th, an old fresco, representing 
the Adoration of the Virgin and Child, has been restored. 
In the ninth chapel we see a splendid monument, by Deseine, 
to the memory of Cardinal de Belloy, Archbishop of Paris, 
who died in 1806 in his 99th year. It represents the Pre¬ 
late seated in a chair on the basement, bestowing alms on a 
poor mother and her daughter; his left hand rests on the 
Bible. The Cardinal’s head is remarkable for its expression 
and resemblance. The loth chapel contains a sarcophagus of 
black marble bearing the statue of the Cardinal de Noailles, 
Archbishop of Paris, who died in 17 29. In the eleventh 
chapel there is another monument, representing Leclerc de 
Juigne, Archbishop of Paris, who died in 1811. He is in a 
kneeling posture, in the attitude of prayer. The figure, re¬ 
markable for its execution, is in white marble and haut-relief, 
by Cartelier. The other chapels are still bare. 

Chancel .—This is separated from the aisle by a riclily-gilt 
iron railing of elegant design. The first object that strikes the 
eye on entering this part of the choir is the carved work of the 
stalls, in oak. They are sculptured and decorated with bas- 
reliefs of the principal events in the life of the Virgin, and 
other sacred subjects, executed by Duboulon, after the designs 
pf Rene Carpentier, a pupil of Girardon. The stalls are ter- 

(l) According to other accounts the Church of St. Marguerite, 


cathedral church of Notre dame. 317 

Urinated by two thrones of great beauty, surmounted by 
canopies, and adorned with angels holding emblems of religion. 
At the coronation of Napoleon I., the Pope occupied that to 
the right, Cardinal de Belloy that to the left. The sanctuary and 
high altar are each approached by flights of steps formed of 
Languedoc marble ; over the altar is a marble group by Cous- 
tou, of fine design and execution, representing the Descent from 
the Cross. This beautiful work is called “The Vow of 
Louis XIIL” Two statues, one of that monarch, the other of 
Louis XIV., have been now replaced here. It was supposed 
that they had been destroyed during the sacking of the 
Archbishop’s palace in 1831, but they were fortunately 
saved and conveyed to Versailles. During the reign of Terror 
they had been concealed and were restored in 1816. At the 
marriage of the present Emperor (Jan. 1853), the Imperial 
couple knelt before the railing of the choir. Upon the exterior 
of the wall that encloses the chancel are 23 curious and valuable 
sculptured compartments in alto-rilievo, begun by MaistreJehan 
Roux, and finished by Maistre Jehan Le Boutelier in 1352. 
They represent various passages in the life of Christ. (1) 
The figures were originally coloured to represent nature. 

There are several excellent works upon Notre Dame, which 
will amply repay examination (2). North of the cathedral 
were the cloister and college of the canons, which were de¬ 
stroyed in 1793. Architect, Viollet-le-Duc. 

On the southern side of Notre Dame stood the Archbishop’s 
Palace, erected by Bishop Maurice de Sully, in 1161, but 

(l) Beginning on the left: l. The Visitation. 2 . The Adoration 
of the Shepherds. 3. The Nativity. 4. The Adoration of “the 
wise men.” 5 . The Massacre of the Innocents. 6. The Flight into 
Egypt. 7. The Presentation in the Temple. 8. Christ in the 
midst of the Doctors. 9 . The Baptism of Christ. 10. The Marriage 
of Cana in Galilee. 11. The Entry of Christ into Jerusalem. 12. 
The Last Supper. 13. Christ washing the feet of his Disciples. 
14 . Christ on the Mount of Olives. (The Crucifixion, the Entomb¬ 
ment, the Resurrection, and the Ascension of Christ, were de¬ 
stroyed when alterations were made in the arches of the choir 
next the high altar.) 15. Christ and Mary Magdalen. 16. The 
Holy Women. 17. Christ appearing to the Apostles. 18. Christ 
and the two Disciples on their way to Emmaus. 19. Christ at 
table with the Disciples, breaking the Bread. 2o. Christ again 
appearing to the Disciples. 21. The Incredulity of St. Thomas. 22 . 
The miraculous draught of fishes. 23. The Mission of the Apostles. 
24. Christ giving the Apostles his benediction before his Ascension. 

( 2 ) The principal are Gilbert, “ Histoire de Notre Dame,” l 
vol. 4to.; Felibien et Lobineau, “ Histoire de Paris,” 2 vols. 
folio; “ H'story of Paris,” 3 vols., Galignani; also Victor Hugo’s 
“ Notre name,” and Michelet’s “ Histoire de France,” vol. 2 . 


318 ELEVENTH WALK. 

rebuilt by Cardinal de Noailles in 1097. — The Constituent 
Assembly held their sittings there in 17 89. It was afterwards 
inhabited by the chief surgeon of the Hotel Dieu, and the cha¬ 
pel converted into an amphitheatre of anatomy. In 1802 it 
was restored to the clergy. The palace was a handsome re¬ 
sidence, worthy of the see, and, with its gardens, occupied 
the southern extremity of the island. The apartments were 
splendid, and the furniture, partly antique, was valuable. 
The library was rich in MSS. of the middle ages, and con¬ 
tained many literary curiosities. But on Feb. 13, 1831, the 
populace, having sacked the church of St. Germain l’Auxerrois, 
proceeded to the archbishop’s palace; and on that night and 
the following day every thing it contained was either broken, 
burnt, or thrown into the river. The palace had to be pulled 
down, and its site is now occupied by a promenade, adorned 
in the centre with a small Gothic fountain called 

Fontaine Notre Dame, erected in 1845. Its height is go 
feet, and its style is Gothic. Two hexagonal basins, the 
largest of which is 33 feet in diameter, receive the water 
from the mouths of three triceplialous monsters crushed by 
archangels that occupy the blunt angles of the basement. 
Above these stands the Virgin Mary with the infant, under a 
crocketted canopy. Sculptors: Merlieux and Pommateau. 

The new low building of Doric design, standing at the ex¬ 
treme point of the island is the Morgue, where dead bodies 
are exposed, for which see page 73. 

Close by, leading to the southern bank of the river, is the 

Pont de l’Archeveciie.— Builtin 1827. It consists of three 
arches, from. 18 to 20 yards in span. We now approach the 

Ile Saint Louis, originally called Ile aux Vaches .— 
Henry IV. conceived the project of erecting houses on this 
spot; but the execution of it was reserved for Louis XIII. 
It is connected with the Ile de la Cite by the Pont St. Louis, 
affording a direct communication with the rue Louis Philippe, 
with which it is connected by a stone bridge of three arches, 
called, Pont Louis Philippe. Part of the old bridge was 
burnt down in February, 1848, and then rebuilt under the 
name of Pont de la Reforme. On entering the island, we 
find at No. 6, the 

Bibliotiieque Polonaise.— This library, founded by the 
Polish Literary Society, (see p. 104,) under the patronage of 
Prince Czartoryski, and other distinguished refugees, counts 
upwards of 50,000 volumes, comprising amongst other works, 
a valuable collection of manuscrpit and other documents 
relating to the history of Poland and Russia. Open daily 
from 11 to 3, holidays excepted. 



BIBLIOTIIEQUE POLONAISE. 319 

Nearly opposite to this stands the 

Pont de la Tournelle, so called from the old tower erected 
by Philip Augustus, that formerly stood on the opposite hank 
of the river, reaching to the Quai St. Bernard. It was built 
by Marie in 1620, was twice carried away, and rebuilt about 
1656. It consists of six semicircular arches, and is 380 feet 
by 42, having been widened by cast-iron arches inserted be¬ 
tween the piers ; the parapet is also of cast iron. 

East of this is the suspension-bridge called 
Pont de Constantine, connecting the Quai de Bethune with 
the southern bank. It was constructed in 1837. 

At the foot of the Quai de Bethune are the Ecole de Natation 
de I’Hdtel Lambert, for ladies, and the Ecole retit, a swim¬ 
ming-school for gentlemen. 

At No. 2, in the rue St. Louis en Pile, is the 
Hotel Lambert, built by Levau, about 1640.—The court 
is small; a magnificent staircase, with a scroll-work balus¬ 
trade, leads from a portico to the state apartments, which re¬ 
tain the gilding, painted panels, and ceilings, as originally 
executed, and produce a splendid effect. The ceilings in these* 
rooms and in the long gallery are by Lesueur, Lebrun, and^ 
Levau, executed with a degree of elaborate finish rarely to be* 
met with. The hotel is rich in two historical souvenirs : Vol¬ 
taire lived in it when he formed the plan of the Ilenriade ; and 
in the gallery above-mentioned, Napoleon in 1815 held a last 
conference with his minister, M. de Montalivet, when he found: 
that all was lost. This splendid hotel, once the residence of 
a wealthy president da Parlement of the 17th century, and 
afterwards used as a storehouse for the garrison of Paris, be¬ 
longs to the Princess Czartoryska, whose judicious taste has re¬ 
stored it to all its former splendour. 

Further down, in the same street, is the church of 
St. Louis en l’Ile, —erected in 1664 on the site of a 
small chapel, built in 1606 by Levau, Leduc and Doucct. It 
has a lofty polygonal spire (erected in 17 65, according to an 
inscription on the tower), in open stone-work. The interior is- 
of Corinthian design, and slightly cruciform, with an aisle run¬ 
ning round the nave and choir. The sculptures, which consist 
of scroll-work in the cupola and its pendentives, were executed 
by J. B. Champagne, nephew of the celebrated painter of the 
same name. In the first chapel, to the right on entering, is 
an altar-piece representing Christ at Emmaus, by Coypel; a 
Holy Family, by Perrin, and another of older date; an As¬ 
sumption, by Peyron, and St. Louis receiving the Sacrament, 
by Johannot. 2d chapel: Jesus offering his heart. 3d. South¬ 
ern transept: a Virgin in plaster, by Ladatte. 4th. Christ 


320 ELEVENTH WALK. 

appearing to Mary Magdalene; St. John the Baptist. 5th. 
St. Vincent de Paule exhorting the sisters of charity, by 
Halle. 6th. Jesus disputing in the Temple, and Christ 
calling little children unto him. Behind the choir are 
three chapels painted in fresco, and enriched with modern 
stained windows. The first, closed by an oaken screen with 
bas-relief carvings of six apostles, is painted by Norblin, 
with figures of Prudence and Fortitude on the lateral walls. 
The second, occupying the central arch, is the chapel ot St. 
Louis, and contains four frescoes by Jollivet: 1, St. Louis 
receiving the cross from Pope Innocent IV. ; 2, the same, in 
prison, encouraging his brothers; 3, Delivering his authority 
into the hands of the Abbot of St. Denis, to govern the 
kingdom in his absence ; 4, his Death. The third chapel is 
closed with a screen like the first, with the remaining six 
apostles in bas-relief; on the lateral walls, Temperance and 
Justice, by Norblin. 10th. St. Francois de Sale, by Halle. 
11th. An Assumption, and the Virgin weeping over the instru¬ 
ments of the Passion, by Lehmann. 12th. St. Peter preach¬ 
ing, by Ducornet. 13th. Northern transept: Ste. Genevieve, 
in plaster by Ladatte. 14th. St. Louis Gonzaga, by Bodem, 
and St. Louis of France offering the crown of thorns. 15th. 
a Deliverance from Purgatory. The organ is above the en¬ 
trance; behind it is a painting of St. Louis relieving the plague- 
stricken Crusaders. Below is a St. John the Baptist in plaster, 
by Guichard. On either side of the high altar are statues 
of St. Peter and St. Paul, by Bra, and two frescoes: Moses 
and Jeremiah. The University of Paris formerly used to 
visit this church in procession on festivals. 

The northern quay of the lie St. Louis leads to the 

Pont Marie. —It was built by Marie, superintendent of the 
bridges in France, in 1635. Two arches were carried away 
by a flood, in 1638, with 22 out of 50 houses on it. The re¬ 
maining houses were removed a short time before the revolu¬ 
tion of 17 89. It has 5 arches, and is 78 feet broad and 300 long. 

At No. 11, Quai Napoleon, is a house, on the site of one 
believed to have been that inhabited by Heloise and Abelard. 
The door bears the monogram and portraits of those two un¬ 
fortunate lovers. The corner-house, 1, rue Basse des Ursins, 
was inhabited by the Canon Fulbert. Further on, is the 

Pont d’Arcole, a bridge of a single iron arch of 262 feet 
span and 65 in breadth. It cost 1,150,000 fr. (1) 

(1) In 1830 a young man, named Arcole, headed the people in 
their attack upon this bridge (defended by the Royal Guards) 
and was killed. This act of courage, similar to that displayed at 
Areola by Napoleon, gave the bridge its present name. 




321 


PONT D’ARCOLE. 

Continuing along the Quay, we arrive at the 
Pont Notre Dame, the oldest in Paris, built in 1499 by Jean 
Joconde, on the site of one dating from 1414, was recon¬ 
structed in 1855 at an expense of 1,200,000 francs. It has ‘ 
five arches, and is 362 feet by 50. In 1660, it was orna¬ 
mented with statues and medallions of the kings of France • 
houses also stood on it, which were pulled down in 17 86. 


TWELFTH WALK. 

This comprises parts of the 7th and 15th arrondissements. 

The Pont Royal, designed by G. and J. H. Mansard, 
and built in 1684 by an Italian Dominican friar named’ 
Frere Bomain, leads from the Tuileries to the Quai d’Orsay. 
It consists of five semicircular arches, and is 432 feet in length 
by 52 in breadth. This part of the river was formerly crossed 
by a ferry ( bac ), whence the rue du Bac derives its name. 
Upon the piers at each end are scales, commencing from the 
low water mark of 1719, (1) and divided into metres and de¬ 
cimetres, to show the height of the river. This bridge com¬ 
mands a fine view of Paris, both up and down the Seine. 
Close to it is moored the Fregate Ecole, a model frigate, now 
fitted up for sea-water baths. Turning to the right, we see the 

Caisse des Depots et Consignations, removed in 1858 
to the present magnificent mansion, which formerly bore the 
name of Hotel de Lespine, or de Praslin. It was built in 
1721, by Bruaut, for the Marshal Due de Belle-Isle, the grand¬ 
son of the celebrated Fouquet. Its principal entrance is at 
56, rue de Lille. Over the door-way are the dates 17 2 1 - 1858 . 
The offices of the Caisse des Relraites, and of the Dotation 
de VArmee, are also here, (see p 63 n.) Next to it are large 
barracks for cavalry, formerly the Hotel des Gardes-du-Corps, 
built by Napoleon, and beyond these the 

Palais du Quai d’Orsay. —This magnificent edifice, begun 
under Napoleon I., continued in 1830, when Charles X. in¬ 
tended it for the exhibition of French manufactures, and com¬ 
pleted by M. Lecorday, under Louis Philippe, comprises a 
vast central court, and two lateral ones. Towards the river 
the front presents a line of 19 windows. The lower story 
is flanked with gardens. The front facing the rue de Lille 

( 1 ) The highest waters known were in 1733 and 1740 ; in the 
latter year they attained 8 metres 20 centimetres. They reached 
the second stories of the houses on the Quai St. Bernard. The 
Bibliolheque Imperiale preserves a volume that floated into a 
window of a 2 d story on that quay. It is entitled, Antiquites 
fondations, singularites des villes , chateaux , et royaumes. 1605. 

21 



322 TWELFTH WALK.* 

contains the chief entrances to the Conseil d’Etat and the 
Cour des Comptes ; and here we see a line marble statue of 
Tronchet, first president of the Court of Cassation in 1806 , 
by Ferrat. The central court is surrounded by a double 
series of arcades with Doric and Ionic pilasters ; the lower 
frieze is inlaid with various-coloured marbles. Of the stair¬ 
cases in this building the most remarkable is that entered 
from a vestibule in the western wing. The ceiling of 
this staircase is richly decorated, but the walls indifferently 
painted by M. Chasseriau, Those of the first flight are en 
grisaille, representing Silence, Meditation, and Study. 
The first landing-place is only remarkable for two old in¬ 
scriptions, relating to the first institution of the Cour des 
Comptes. The walls of the second flight represent seve¬ 
rally Captives taken in war, and Order providing means of 
defence. The front wall of the second landing-place has alle¬ 
gorical figures of Force and Order; its lateral walls represent 
Justice and Order repressing abuses, and Commerce pro¬ 
moting the intercourse of nations. The walls of the third and 
last flight represent Peace protecting Agriculture and the Arts. 
This staircase opens into the galleries of the first story, com¬ 
municating with the Hall of Audience for the Court of Ac¬ 
counts, which has a most elaborate ceiling of timber-work, and 
portraits of Barbe-Marbois, Pasquier, L’Hopital, and Nicolai, 
four of the most eminent Presidents of the Court. On the wall 
opposite the windows are two paintings by Alaux, one repre¬ 
senting St. Louis with Justice and Wisdom; the other, Napo¬ 
leon I. with War and Art. In the ceiling are three compart¬ 
ments, painted by Bezard, with Wealth, Justice, and Labour. 
There is also a beautiful chimney-piece of white marble, with 
two caryatides supporting a clock. The ground-floor, facing 
the river, is appropriated to the sittings of the Council of 
State, and is visible to strangers. The visitor is first in- 
rocluced into the Salle des Pas Perdus, an elegant square 
apartment, in which four rich Doric columns, with spiral 
flutes and cablings, sustain a balustrade opening into a ves¬ 
tibule of the upper story, lit by a skylight. The coves of 
this vestibule are painted by Gendron in twelve compart¬ 
ments, the central ones representing Dawn, Morning, Noon, 
and Evening, and the others, Childhood, Youth, Manhood, 
and Old Age. A door to the left opens laterally into the 
vestiaire, where the Councillors of State put on their 
uniforms, richly embroidered with gold. The first saloon is 
the Salle du Ccmite du Commerce, which contains a fine 
view of the Port of Marseilles, by Isabey. Next comes the 
Salle du Comite de Legislation, of the Corinthian order, 


PALAIS DU QUAI D’ORSAY. 323 

remarkable for an elaborate ceiling, with tie and cross beams 
supported by gilt caryatides. Two large paintings, opposite 
the windows, represent, the first, Justinian, and the other 
Moses, by Marigny. On each side of the entrance are two 
more, the one, Solon dictating his laws, by Dom. Papety ; 
the other Numa and Egeria, by Murat. An antechamber 
leads hence to the Salle des Seances Administratines a 
saloon of extraordinary splendor, decorated with 20 Corin¬ 
thian columns of white marble, formerly intended for the 
palace of the King of Borne on the Trocadero (see p. 190.) 
This hall has portraits of Richelieu, Colbert, d’Agues- 
seau, Suger, Turgot, Cambaceres, Sully, 1’IIdpital, Portalis, 
and Vauban, by the best living masters. The coved 
ceiling is richly gilt in compartments, and contains five 
paintings of Commerce, Agriculture, the Charter of 1830, 
Justice, and Truth, in large medallions. Opposite the centra! 
window is Napoleon I. as a legislator, painted by Flandrin. 
In the tympans of the arches intersecting the coves are 
13 medallions," with portraits of Mathieu Dumas, Fourcroy, 
Boulay de la Meurthe, St. Jean d’Angely, Fermon, Bigot de 
Preameneu, Cuvier, Jaubert, Treilhard, Dessoles, Merlin, 
Louis, and Mounier. The Salle du Comite de Vlnterieur, re¬ 
markable for four Corinthian columns of granite, gives access to 
the Salle da Comite des Graces, in which is a painting bv 
Gassies, representing the arrest of President Brisson in the: 
time of the League. Hence the visitor proceeds through another 
Salle desPas Perdus, similar to the former, the coves of which, 
painted by Gendron, represent, in medallions, Law, Equity, 
Vigilance, and Strength. On the lateral walls of the gallery 
are two frescoes, representing Vintage and Harvest, which are 
best viewed from the upper story. Next follows the Salle du 
Contentieux, of Doric architecture, in which are portraits of 
Count Simeon, and Gen. Allain, by Lemaire, over the doors; 
also President Mathieu Mole pacifying the Parisian people, and 
President llarlay attacked at Blois, both by Thomas. The 
third painting, by Delaroche, represents President Duranti of 
Toulouse assassinated in a convent where he had fled for 
safety. The coves of the.ceiling at the extremities have been 
painted by M. Benedict Masson. The subjects are, at one 
end, Time between figures of Study and Eloquence, Human 
Progress promoted by Navigation, and Genius uncovering the 
Sphynx. At the other, Truth, Justice, the Laws, War, and 
Peace. This suite ends with a Salle d'Attente , adorned with 
a picture of Justice. This edifice cost 11,340,000 fr. For 
permission to view the interior apply at the porter’s lodge be¬ 
tween 9 and 11 daily. A fee is expected. 






324 TWELFTH WALK. 

Immediately west of this palace, in the rue de Lille, is the 

Hotel de la Legion d’Honneur. —This edifice was built in 
1786, after the designs of Rousseau, for the Prince de Salm* 
Whose name it bore. (1) The entrance presents a triumphal arch 
flanked by double rows of Ionic columns on either side. The 
attics of the lateral pavilions are adorned with bas-reliefs. An 
Ionic peristyle, ornamented with busts extends along the sides 
of the court to the principal front, which has six Corinthian 
columns, with the inscription— iionneur et patrie. Above 
are two colossal eagles. In the centre, towards the Quai 
d’Orsay, there is a circular projection with columns, which 
supports a balustrade crowned by six statues. The in¬ 
terior is rich, and the principal saloon, a rotunda 40 
feet in diameter, looks on the river. It is inhabited by the 
Grand Chancellor of the Order (see page 61). 

Westward along the Quai d’Orsay, which overlooks one 
of the finest wharves of the city, stands the 

Pont de la Concorde. —This bridge was buik in 1787-90, 
by Perronnet, at a cost of 1,200,000 livres. Part of the stone 
employed was obtained from the demolition of the Bastille. 
It consists of five elliptical arches; the total length of the 
bridge is 461 feet, its breadth is 61 feet. The parapet is formed 
by a balustrade, divided by plinths. One of the piers bears 
a vertical scale of 29/ 2 feet. (2) The Boulevard St. Germain 
has been begun here, the corner-house, just finished, being 
intended for the Cercle Agricole (see p. 14). Opposite is the 

Palace of the Legislative Body, formerly Palais Bour¬ 
bon. —Begun in 1722, by Girardini, for Louise Franchise, 
Duchess-dowager of Bourbon, and continued by Mansard." The 
Prince de Conde enlarged it, at a cost of 20 millions of francs, 
but it was not terminated when the revolution broke out in 
1789. It was one of the first mansions plundered, and re¬ 
mained unoccupied till 1795, when the Council of Five Hun¬ 
dred held its sittings in the pavilion opposite the bridge, the 
rest being appropriated as a residence for the president. It 
was afterwards occupied by the Corps Legislatif. In 1814 
the palace was restored to the Prince de Conde, a part only 
being reserved for the Chamber of Deputies. On the melan¬ 
choly death of the Duke de Bourbon in 1830, this palace de- 

( 1 ) The Prince de Salm having been beheaded in 1792, his 
hotel was disposed of by lottery, and a hair-dresser won it. In 
1803 the hotel was devoted to its present purpose. 

( 2 ) This bridge was originally called Pont Louis XVI., from the 
place opposite; in 1792 it was named Pont de la Revolution, 
then Pontde la Concorde in 1800. At the Restoration it resumed 
its original name, which was again changed in 1850. 


PALACE OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY* 325 

volved by will to the Duke d’Aumale ; and the part used 
by the Duke de Bourbon (1) was leased to the Chamber of 
Deputies for their president; but eventually the whole was 
bought for the Chamber. 

Exterior .— An iron railing with two gates gives access to 
the edifice from the bridge, the facade of which, built in 1804, 
by Poyet, consists of 12 Corinthian columns, resting on abroad 
flight of 29 steps, and supporting a triangular pediment 
measuring 95 feet at the base by 17 feet altitude. An allego¬ 
rical bas-relief by M. Cortot adorns the tympan; it represents 
France standing on a tribune, holding the Constitution in her 
right hand. The figure of France is 14 feet high. At her sides 
are Force and Justice ; to the left is a group of figures personi¬ 
fying Navigation, the Navy, the Army, Manufactures, Peace, 
and Eloquence; on the right, are Commerce, Agriculture, the 
Arts, and the rivers Seine and Marne. On the west of the 
portico is a bas-relief by Rude, on the east one by Pradier. 
At the foot of the steps there are colossal statues of Justice and 
Prudence, 18 feet high; and in front are figures of Sully, 
Colbert, l’Hopital and d’Aguesseau. On the side of the Place 
Bourbon a lofty gateway, connected by Corinthian porticos 
with two lateral pavilions, leads into the principal court (2). 
The iron railings between the columns were fixed after the 
attempt of May 15, 1848, by way of precaution against similar 
coups de main. (3) The building has several courts : the 

(1) The duke was found, on Aug. 27 , 1830 , suspended by his 
cravat from the holt of a window of his bed-room, at the Chateau 
de St. Leu, and from his age, 74, and his weak state of health, 
it was considered improbable that he could have accomplished 
his own destruction. 

(2) Here an uncouth temporary building was erected by the 
Provisional Government of 1 84 s for the Constituent Assembly. 
It was built in 45 days; over the entrance were figures of 
Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity. Over the President’s chair 
were the words : Republique Frangaise .— Liberte , Egalite , Fra - 
ternite. It was taken down in 1851 . The Constituent Assembly 
of 1848 consisted of 900 members. 

( 3 ) Under the pretext of “ petitioning” the Constituent Assem¬ 
bly (which had met for the first time on May 4 , 18 4 8 ) in favour 
of Poland, the socialist party got up a procession on the 1 5th of 
the same month, and marched, to the number of about 80,000, 
to the Palais Bourbon, headed by banners, and crying, “Vive la 
Pologne, Vive la Republique, Vive Louis Blanc !” The gates were 
closed, but the portico was soon scaled, and an immense 
multitude inundated the hall of theNalional Assembly. Notwith¬ 
standing their astonishment, the representatives remained 
seated, maintaining a dignified silence, while the president was 
driven from bis chair, and a multitude of demagogues addressed 




32G TWELFTH WALK. 

principal one is adorned with two white marble statues, by 
Guayrard. The one to the right represents France holding 
the national flag, and depositing the ticket of universal-suffrage 
in an urn; that to the left represents Strength spreading abun¬ 
dance around her, while her right hand rests on Justice. Both 
figures are seated. The buildings contain a post and telegraph- 
office, those of the questure, and habitations for the officials. 

Interior .—The visitor is introduced by a side door on the 
west of the portico, into the Salle des Quatre Colonnes , of 
Corinthian architecture, with niches and statues, which leads 
to the Salle de la Paix, ornamented with a Laocoon, a Vir- 
ginius, and a statue of Minerva in bronze. The ceiling is 
painted by M. Horace Vernet. The flat rectangular soffit in 
the centre contains in three compartments allegorical figures 
of Agriculture, Steam-navigation, and Terrestrial Steam-loco¬ 
motion. The coves surrounding this central portion, painted 
in Louis Philippe’s time, represent the balustrades that run 
along the roof of the Palais Bourbon; here are seen, crowding 
to witness the ceremony of opening the Chambers by the 
King, ambassadors, members of the Cour Royale, Peers, and 
the members of the University; the royal cortege is not visible, 
biit its presence may be guessed from the attitudes of the 
spectators. The above is painted in four compartments, 
separated by allegorical figures of Science, Manufactures, the 
Fine Arts, and Agriculture. 

From this hall a passage leads to the Salic du Trunc, 
painted by Delacroix, with figures of the Rhine, Rhone, Seine, 

the Assembly in the midst of an indescribable uproar, summon¬ 
ing it to vote the re-constitution of Poland either by negotiation 
or the force of arms. Blanqui, Barbes, and Raspail were 
the only orators lislened to. At length, after the uproar 
had lasted full three hours, Huber mounted on the presi¬ 
dent’s table, and declared in a stentorian voice that the Assembly 
was dissolved, and a provisional government established. The 
representatives were then driven out of the hall, and insulted 
with the most opprobrious epithets, while the intruders, seizing 
pens and paper, began writing lists of the names of those whom 
they deemed worthy of forming a provisional government. But 
after a while piquets of National and Mobile Guards arrived and 
cleared the hall at the point of the bayonet. Another parly of 
insurgents had meanwhile taken possession of the Hotel de Ville, 
and decreed a provisional government, composed of Barbes, 
Ledru-Rollin, Louis Blanc, Albert, Thor6, Blanqui, Cabet, Ras¬ 
pail, Plocon, Leroux, Caussidierc. But by this time upwards of 
100,000 men of National Guards were underarms; the National 
Assembly was re-instated that very evening in its hall, and de¬ 
clared itself en permanence. The ringleaders were arrested the 
same day, and precautions taken against any future attempts. 



PALACE OF THE LEGISLATIVE BODY. 327 

Garonne, Saone {Avar), and Loire, the Ocean, and the Medi¬ 
terranean. The Salle Casimir Perier is the vestibule of the 
principal entrance. There are here statues of Perier, by 
Duret; Bailly on his way to execution, and Mirabeau, 
both by Jaley ; and Foy, by Desprez. Over the entrance 
and the opposite door are fine bas-reliefs by Triqueti. Ad¬ 
joining it is the Salle des Distributions , where the De¬ 
puties receive the reports of committees, motions of the 
Chamber, Sec. The ceiling of this saloon, pierced with a 
skylight, is painted in grisaille by Abel de Pujol, and 
represents in different compartments the Salic Law, the 
Capitulaires of Charlemagne, the Edict of Nantes, and the 
Charter of 1830, in allegorical figures. We are next con¬ 
ducted to the Antechamber of the Library, containing 
statues of Cicero and Demosthenes, and paintings of Mazeppa, 
by Horace Vernet, Philip Augustus ordering the completion 
of the Old Louvre, by Mauzaisse ; the Square of St. Mark, by 
Joyant; and Dagobert, by Gue. We now enter the Salle 
des Conferences, painted by Heim; on one side is represented 
Louis le Gros, attended by his Minister, the Abbe Suger, 
and the Seigneurs de Garlande, presiding at an assembly of 
bishops, counts, and barons, occupied iu drawing up the or¬ 
dinances for the enfranchisement of the Commons in 1136; 
on the other is Louis XII., presiding at one of the first sit¬ 
tings of the Cour des Comptes. In the latter the artist has 
availed himself of a miniature of that time. At the extremities 
of the salle are medallions, one representing Charlemagne, 
surrounded by the princes and nobles of France, causing to be 
read to the people his “Capitulaires,” which served as the 
basis of French legislation. The other represents the people 
applauding St. Louis for the public regulations he instituted 
previous to his departure for Africa. Other medallions in 
grisaille contain portraits of Suger, l’Hopital, Sully, Colbert, 
Montesquieu, See.; the remaining figures are allegorical of 
Justice, Agriculture, etc. In escutcheons are “ Code Napo¬ 
leon” and “Charte de 1830.” This Saloon also contains a 
fine statue of Henry IV., some flags taken from the Austrians 
during the Empire, and paintings of the Siege of Calais, by 
Scheffer ; President Mole, by Vincent, and Philip IV. opening 
the States General, by Vinchon. There is a beautiful chimney- 
piece in white marble ornamented with figures of Fame and 
History, by Moine. 

The Legislative Hall, formerly the Chamber of Deputies, (1) 

(l) It was in this hall the Duchess of Orleans made her ap¬ 
pearance with her two sons, the Count of Paris and the Duke of 
Chartres, on Feb. 24, 1 848, having traversed on foot the space 


328 TWELFTH WALK. 

is entered by a side door in the above-mentioned passage. It 
is a semicircular hall, ornamented with 24 columns of single 
blocks of white marble of the Ionic order, having capitals of 
gilt bronze. The president’s chair is situated in the centre of 
the axis of the semicircle, around which rise in gradation 500 
seats, (1) to the height of the basement which supports the 
columns. The whole is fitted up in crimson velvet and gold. (2) 

which separates the Chamber from the Tuileries, while Louis 
Philippe was hastening from Paris in the direction of St. Cloud. 
She entered the Chamber at half past l p.m., and took her seat 
on an arm-chair which had been provided for her, in the small 
circular space before the tribune, while her sons sat on chairs 
on each side of her. M. Dupin addressed the Chamber, announc¬ 
ing the abdication of Louis Philippe, and moving that the depu¬ 
ties should proclaim the Count of Paris King of the French, 
under the regency of the Duchess of Orleans. M. Marie, M. La¬ 
martine, M. Arago, and other deputies here rose to oppose the 
motion ; butM. Sauzet, the president, attempted to stop them by 
declaring the Count of Paris duly proclaimed. M. de Lamartine 
however moved that the discussion should be continued without 
the presence of any members of the royal family. Here a sudden 
tumult was heard outside ; two persons hastily snatched up the 
young princes in their arms, and, followed by the Duchess, tried 
to reach first the door to the left, and next the central one ; but 
the passage was crowded with people from without. The Duchess 
and her children resumed their seats, while some of the strangers 
penetrated into the hemicycle, notwithstanding the entreaties of 
the president to allow the members of the Royal family to leave 
the place. Again the Duchess attempted to depart by the central 
door, preceded by the Dukes of Nemours and Montpensier, and 
again she was stopped, and obliged to sit down with her sons on 
the uppermost bench of the right centre. The crowd of intruders 
increased. MM. Marie and Cr£mieux spoke successively, deny¬ 
ing the power of the Chamber to change the law of the regency 
which entrusted that important charge to the Duke of Nemours, 
and concluded by proposing the nomination of a provisional 
government. This was strenuously opposed by M. Odilon Barrot, 
and the Duchess of Orleans herself attempted to speak, but 
was hushed by her friends. A crowd of armed men now 
rushed in; M. Ledru-Rollin ascending the tribune, declared 
that Louis Philippe having abdicated his authority had ceased 
to be King, and could not transmit the crown without an ap¬ 
peal to the people. Great confusion ensued, and lasted about 
three hours, during which the Duchess succeeded in making 
her escape. She retired to the Hotel des Invalides, and quitted 
Paris the next morning. 

(t) There were 459 Deputies under Louis Philippe; the pre» 
sent number is 292 since January 1868. 

( 2 ) Over the president’s chair there was a large painting, by 
Court, representing Louis Philippe swearing to the Charter ip 
the Chamber of Deputies on the 9th of August, 1830, 


PALACE OP THE LEGISLATIVE BODY. 329 

The stylobate behind the president’s chair is ornamented with 
a fine bas-relief, by Coutant, representing France distributing 
rewards to the Arts and Manufactures. In the intercolumnia- 
tions are placed statues of Order and Liberty, by Pradier ; and 
above the entablature are statues by Allier, Foyatier, Du¬ 
mont, and Despres, of Reason, Justice, Prudence, and Elo¬ 
quence. 

The desk of the president is adorned with a beautiful bas- 
relief, by Lemot, representing Fame and History, standing 
before a double plinth adorned with the head of Janus in a 
medallion. In compliance with the spirit of the decree of 
January 19th, 18G7, the tribune, suppressed since 1852, 
from which orators addressed the Chamber, has been re¬ 
placed in front of the President’s desk, and a second gallery 
for the public has been constructed in addition to those already 
existing under the Ionic colonnade. Ample accommodation is 
provided for the Imperial Family, the Diplomatic Body, 
and officers of state (1). The semi-cupola of the hall is 
ornamented with arabesques, by Fragonard. Each deputy 
has a desk to himself; the Ministers, the President of the 
Council of State, and the Commissioners delegated by the 
Emperor to speak in the name of the Government have their 
seats facing the Chamber, in front of the tribune. (2) 

The Library of the Legislative Body consists of about 
05,000 volumes. This collection,’which, besides comprising 
all the documents relative to the legislature of France, con¬ 
tains a series of historical works, some of great rarity, is cele¬ 
brated for possessing the original MSS. of the Nouvelle He - 
loise, and the Confessions, of Rousseau. It is enriched by 
the complete series of English Parliamentary Reports, Papers, 
8cc., as a periodical interchange of papers takes place between 
the Parliaments of France and England. The Library is a 
long gallery, with a richly-vaulted ceiling, painted by Dela¬ 
croix. For admission, apply to the secretary. The palace 
may be visited daily from 9 to 5, but during the Session from 
9 to 11 only. A fee is expected. 

South of the Palais Bourbon is the “ Place” of the same 
name. In the centre is a marble statue by Feucheres, repre¬ 
senting Law, seated on the chair of Justice, her right hand 
holding a sceptre with the Eagle, and her left resting on the 

(1) For tickets apply to an ambassador, a deputy, or the 
Questure of the Chamber. 

( 2 ) Under Louis Philippe one half of the lower bench of the 
deputies was reserved for the Ministers. At the opening and 
close of the Session a throne occupied the place of the chair 
and tribune. 



330 TWELFTH WALK. 

Code. On the pedestal is the following incription :— 

Legis lianc efflgieni, felieiter imperante Napoleonc III., imperii domusq. 
Impcratoriae Minister ponendam curavit, anno MDCCCLV. 

Tlie other sides of the pedestal are charged with devices in 
bas-relief, allegorical of Justice and Wisdom, and with the 
imperial eagle. From June 1848 to December 1851, this spot 
was occupied by a colossal statue of the Republic in plaster. 

The Palace of the President of the Legislative Body, 
formerly called the Hotel Lassay, is at No. 128, rue de 
PUniversite. It is in the style of the Renaissance. To view 
the Gallery of Paintings it contains, apply in writing for 
tickets. Adjoining this is the 

Hotel of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, the First 
stone of which was laid in 1845, by M. Guizot, and which 
has cost 5 millions of francs. The principal front is on the 
Quai d’Orsay, and consists of two pavilions connected by 
an intermediate body of the Doric and Ionic orders. The 
whole facade is profusely sculptured. The offices are in 
the rue de PUniversite. An elegant iron railing with two 
gateways encloses a spacious court with flower-beds in front 
of the edifice. 

Proceeding westward, the visitor will find the 

Pont des Invalides, a stone bridge with four arches of 100 
feet span, replacing a suspension-bridge opened in 1829. It lias 
cost 800,000 fr. The balustrades are of cast-iron, and the foot 
of the central pier is decorated with two statues ; that towards 
the Pont de la Concorde representing Navigation, and that on 
the contrary side, Peace. Further on, at No. 63, is the 

Manufacture Imperiale des Tabacs. —The French go¬ 
vernment having the monopoly of tobacco and snuff for a 
term of years fixed by law, this, the central establishment 
for the preparation of those articles, is organized on an ex¬ 
tensive scale, and has besides a branch at Charenton. A 
court, enclosed by the smithy and warehouses, leads to the 
rooms where the tobacco is undone by women, who are paid 
at the rate of 3fr. 6 c. per loo kilos., laid out in heaps, and 
moistened with salt water, after which it is left to ferment 
at a temperature of about 160 Fahr. Further on, the leaves 
so prepared during 24 hours are stripped of their stalks, 
and the blades separated from their spines. This hard stuff 
is partly used for soldiers’ tobacco ((abac do, cantine), and 
partly manufactured into paper for cigarettes. A steam- 
engine by Farcot, of 200 horse power, communicates 
motion to a variety of machinery above. A long 
gallery on the second story displays a row of ten chop¬ 
ping-machines, fed from behind by men who shovel the pre- 




MANUFACTURE IMPERIALE DES TABACS. 331 

pared tobacco-leaves into oscillating funnels, through which 
they descend to the chopper in a highly compressed state. The 
produce is tobacco ready for smoking. The next room con¬ 
tains 32 snuff-mills, fed from above through canvas gullets; a 
main horizontal shaft, a foot in diameter, turns as many ec¬ 
centrics as there are mills, communicating by straps with 
levers that give the perpendicular mill-shafts an alternate cir¬ 
cular motion. The produce falls upon a broad canvas strap 
moving horizontally upon rollers, and is thus carried to four 
sieves; the snuff is sifted, and falls into troughs below; the 
coarser snuff is rejected, and transported by the former process 
to a pit, from whence a bucket-engine carries it to the third 
story. Here it returns to the mills below by means of a 
long Archimedes’ screw. In the next room on this story is a 
machine for cutting labels; and on descending, other rooms 
are seen, where cigars are manufactured by women, who are 
paid at the rate of 1 IT. 25 c. per 2 50 cigars, or a kilo. Next 
is the drying-room, where tobacco ready cut is exposed in 
large troughs to the action of a gentle heat. Two rooms for 
pig-tail come next, where it is spun like hemp, from the de¬ 
licate quill-diameter patronized by the Parisian habitue of the 
Closerie des Lilas, to the thick rope that forms the solace of 
the Havre marin. The men in the parcel-room earn 
4 fr. 40 c. per 1,600 parcels; 7 00 parcels weigh 150 kilos, 
and will fill a cask. The number of persons employed 
here is 1,900, viz., 1,500 females, and 400 men and 
boys. A man will earn from 3 fr. to 4 fr. a-day; a woman, if 
clever, may earn 2 fr. 50 c. per day. There are 17 manufac¬ 
tories in France all depending from this, the central one. 
The net annual profit on the tobacco monopoly is about 
17 5,000,000 fr. There are about 500 licensed tobacconists in 
Paris. Admission on Thursdays from 10 to 4. 

Adjoining is the Pompe a feu du Gros Caillou, established 
by Messrs. Perrier in 17 86, for supplying houses on the left 
bank with water. There are also baths on the premises. 

Opposite the Pont de l’Alma (seep. 188) at the corner of 
the new Avenue du Champs de Mars, we see the 

Imperial Stables, a new edifice, comprising four courts 
and a garden, with a riding-school fronting the principal 
court. The stables are situated right and left, flanking the 
riding-school, and may contain 300 horses, forming three 
categories, viz., post, carriage, and saddle-horses. The stalls 
are "of oak, each being provided with an iron rack and stone 
manger. One of the secondary courts contains the coach¬ 
houses for common. State, and historical carriages, including 
among the latter those used at the coronations of Napoleon I. 


332 TWELFTH WALK. 

and Charles X. In the adjoining court there is the infirmary, 
and the rest of the buildings comprise 130 apartments, large 
and small, for the Imperial equerries, grooms, and coachmen. 
To visit this establishment, apply to M. le Premier Ecuyer 
de S. M. VEmpereur, at the Tuileries. 

At No. 73 is the Magazine of Military Accoutrements, and 
at No. 103 the Garde Meuble de la Couronne, where the 
furniture of the Imperial palaces is kept. It communicates 
through the court with the Ateliers de Sculpture, where 
artists commissioned by Government execute their works. 
Neither of these establishments is visible (1). 

At No. 160, rue de l’Universite, is the Pharmacie Centrale 
des Hopitaux Militaries. At No. 188, rue St. Dominique, 
we find a military hospital, founded by the Marechal de Biron 
in 17 65, and containing 1,050 beds. Opposite stands the 
Fontaine de Mars , erected in 1813. It has a bas-relief, 
representing Ilygeia offering drink to an exhausted soldier. 
Continuing to the left, we reach the church of 

St. Pierre du Gros Caillou, —in the Tuscan style, 
erected in 182 2 byM. Godde. The frieze, painted in fresco by 
La Riviere, represents Christ delivering the keys of Heaven to 
St. Peter. Below this are a Holy Family, Christ at Emmaus, 
by Janet Lange, and an Angel rescuing St. Peter from prison, 
by Gaillot. There are also : Christ preaching, Daniel among 
the Lions, and theBaptism of Christ, by Desgoffe. 

Opposite is the Hospice Leprince (see p. 120). 

The rue St. Dominique terminates at the 

Champ de Mars —an immense oblong space between the 
ficole Militaire and the Seine, of 3084 feet by 2290. It was 
formerly bordered east and west by ditches formed, in 1790, 
by the population of Paris, of both sexes and all ranks, for 
the celebrated Fete de la Federation, which took place on the 
14th of July, when an altar, called VAlltel de la Patrie, was 
erected in the centre, and Louis XVI., seated in a superb am¬ 
phitheatre in front of the Ecole Militaire, took his oath to 
the new constitution. More than 60,000 persons were 
constantly at work till the embankments were completed. 
Here Napoleon held the famous Champ de Mai, before the 
battle of Waterloo ; and here too, in 1830, Louis Philippe dis¬ 
tributed their colours to the National Guards. On the night 

(!) The ground on which this building stands was once 
an island called lie des Cygnes, formerly lie Marquerelle. On St. 
Bartholomew’s day the dead bodies of 1,200 persons, being con¬ 
sidered unworthy of Christian burial, were cast into the Seine, 
hut they collected at the lie Marquerelle, and caused such an 
infection that they had to be interred, on the island. 


CHAMP i)E MARS. 333 

of the 14th Jane, 1837* daring the rejoicings for the mar¬ 
riage of the Dnke of Orleans, 24 persons were suffo¬ 
cated or trodden to death by the pressure of the crowd pass¬ 
ing through the gates. On May loth, 1852, Louis Napoleon 
distributed to the army the Eagles which were to replace the 
Gallic Cock. This ground, commonly used for reviews and 
manoeuvres, was covered, in 18 67, with the buildings and 
park of the Great Exhibition. (1) 

At the southern extremity of the Champ de Mars is the 

Ecole Miutaire.— Louis XV., by an edict of 1751, founded 
this school for the gratuitous education of live' hundred poor 

(l) The Great Exhibition of 1 867 was confessedly the most 
splendid ever witnessed. The centre of the Champ de Mars 
was occupied by an elliptical edifice, chiefly consisting of iron 
and glass, and composed of seven concentric galleries, en¬ 
circling a delightful garden in the middle. This building 
covered a space of 36 acres, its mtal length being 527 yards, 
and its breadth, 4oG yards. The iron employed in its con¬ 
struction weighed 13,500 tons ; its windows and sky-lights pre¬ 
sented a surface of 77,226 square yards ; its wood-work, 62,970' 
sq. yards of plank ; its stone- and brick-work, 67,3to cubic 
yards. Upwards of 479,000 cubic yards of earth bad to be re¬ 
moved for the foundations, drains, and water-pipes; the- 
sewerage measured five miles, and water was supplied from a 
special reservoir holding 40,ooo hectolitres. The rest of the 1 
Champ de Mars was laid out into a beautiful park, divided, like 
the Palace, among the different nations. Moorish palaces,, 
mosques, Chinese coffee-house s &e., lay side by side with 
Portuguese villas and Russian log-houses. One part of the Park 
was devoted to a horticultural exhibition, considered the most 
complete ever seen. The number of exhibitors, which was 
22 ,ooo in 1355, and 28 ,ooo in the London Exhibition of 1862 , 
was 60,000 in 1 867. The weight of the articles exposed to view 
was 28,000 tons. The number of prizes awarded was 1 1, 1 65, 
viz., 64 grand prizes; 883 gold medals ; 3,653 silver do., and 
6,565 bronze do., amounting in all to 800,000 fr. There were 
besides 5,80i honourable mentions. The whole cost, of the 
Exhibition buildings and accessories amounted to 20 millions of 
francs, viz., 6 , 000,000 fr. contributed by the State, 6 , 000,000 fr. 
by the City, and the rest by a company. Part of this expense 
was covered by the letting of the space to the different exhi¬ 
bitors and nations ; thus, England paid 2 , 900,000 fr.; Belgium,, 
1 , 500,000 fr. ; Prussia, 3 , 000 , 000 , &c. ; the rest was more than 
covered by the 10 millions of visitors to the Exhibition. 
Among the objects of interest exhibited by the French Govern¬ 
ment we may mention the Croivn jewels. Of these, the fines! 
is the Regent , purchased, in 174 8, by Philippe II., Duke of Orleans; 
it weighs 136 carats, and is valued at about 5,000,000fr.. The 
precious stones of the Stale are 64,812 in number, weighing, 
18,751 carats, and worth 20,9oo,26ofr. The crown has. 520'6 


334 TWELFTH WALK. 

sons of noblemen killed in battle. Boarders were also ad¬ 
mitted on paying 2,000 livres. It was commenced in 17 52 
by Gabriel. The principal entrance is on the Place de 
Fontenoy, and opens into two courts. The first, 420 feet 
square, is bordered by barracks ; the second, a square of 
270 feet, is flanked by two open Doric galleries ending in 
the lateral pavilions of the front, connected with the central 
one by intermediate Doric and Ionic wings, two stories high. 
The central pavilion is surmounted by a quadrangular dome. 
A statue of Louis XV., by Lemoine, which stood in the 
inner court, was broken to pieces in 17 89. The main building 
is flanked by Cavalry and Artillery barracks. On the first 
floor is the Salle cla Conseil, adorned with military emblems 
and pictures. The chapel was formerly most magnificent, but 
the valuable paintings which it once possessed were de¬ 
stroyed in 17 89. At present it has been restored to its 
former use. An observatory set up here by Lalande in 
1768, was definitively suppressed in 1788, when the school 
was closed, to be transformed into cavalry-barracks in 
17 89. Napoleon afterwards made it his headquarters. It 
now forms barracks for about 6,000 men, infantry, cavalry, 
and artillery, and occupies a space of 1,408 feet by 797. 
For permission to view the interior, rarely granted, apply 
to M. le Commandant en Chef de la Garde Fmperiale, a 
VEcole Militaire. Additional cavalry barracks have been 
erected opposite, on the Place de Fontenoy. 

At No. 26 , in the avenue de Saxe, there is a Convent of 
Carmelite nuns, with a handsome Gothic chapel ; and further 
on, in the centre of the circular Place de Breteuil, is the 

Artesian Well of Crenelle. —Commenced in 1834, by 
M. Mulot, engineer, in the court of the late Abattoir, and 
completed February 26th, 1841, when the water burst 
out with inconceivable force, the boring instrument having, 
after immense difficulties, penetrated to the depth of 1800 
feet. The temperature of the water was 28 p centigrade, or 
82.4 Fahrenheit. The whole depth is lined with galvanized iron, 
and the water rises to an altitude of 112 feel, yielding 17 0,940 

brilliants, 146 rose-diamonds, and 59 saphirs, value 14,702,708 ft*. 
Next comes a sword with 1506 roses, valued at 261,165 fr.; a 
clasp with 217 brilliants, value 273,119 fr.; a sword with 1576 
brilliants, value 241,874 fr.; a clasp for a cloak, mounted with an 
opal valued at 37,500 fr.; and 197 brilliants worth 30,605 fr.; and 
a button for the hat, with 21 brilliants, worth 240,700 fr. Among 
the articles for ladies are four head-dresses, value 1,165,163 fr., 
293,758 fr.,283,816 fr.,and 130,820fr.; a brilliant necklace worth 
<33,900 fr., and some wheat-ears valued at 191,475 fr. 


INSTITUTION IMPERIALE DES JEUNES AVEUGLES. 335 

gallons in 24 hours, which may he conveyed to the upper¬ 
most story of any house in Paris. The pipe is 21 inches in 
diameter at the surface, and 7 at bottom. Since September, 
1858 the water has been horizontally conveyed to the centre 
of the Place de Breteuil, where the present open-worked 
tower of bronzed cast-iron, 42 metres in height, and of ele¬ 
gant design, encloses the ascension and distribution pipes, 
which are all encased in a main cylinder. A winding stair¬ 
case, visible from without, leads to the top, where a small 
basin receives the waters conveyed by the two ascension pipes, 
whence they descend into the distribution pipe. There is a 
fourth pipe also contained in the main cylinder, to discharge 
the water in case of repairs. The structure rests on a cir¬ 
cular basement of masonry, 14 metres in diameter, and 2% 
metres in altitude. The weight of the cast-iron employed is 
100,000 kilogrammes. Engineer, M. Delaperche. To view 
the interior, and mount to the top, apply in person to the 
Bureaux des Eaux, at the Motel de Ville, for a ticket, and then 
call at No. 74, Avenue de Breteuil. 

In the rue Duroc, a church is being built, under the 
name of St. Francois Xavier, and extending from the Avenue 
de Breteuil to the Boulevard des Invalides, where the chief 
entrance will be. It is to contain 23 chapels, and occupy a 
space of 100 metres by 35. Architect, M. Baltard. 

At the opposite corner of the Boulevard des Invalides, No. 
56, we perceive the 

Institution Imperials des Jeunes Aveugles. —This esta¬ 
blishment originated in the benevolent exertions ofM. Valentin 
Hauy, who, being himself blind, in 17 84 opened a school for 
blind children. In 1791 it was created a royal institution by 
Louis XVI. It occupied the buildings of the Seminaire St. 
Firmin, in the rue St. Victor, but was removed in 1843 to the 
present splendid building, erected by the architect Philippon, 
at a cost of 1,850,000fr., and covering a space of 3,000 
square metres. In the centre of the court stands a marble 
statue of the founder in the attitude of teaching a blind youth, 
executed by Badion de la Tronchcre. In the bas-relief which 
adorns the pediment over the entrance, by Jouffroy, Religion 
is represented encouraging Hauy and a blind female in their 
efforts to instruct their pupils. The building has distinct 
apartments for the males and females. The visitor is first 
conducted to the right wing, occupied by the boys, and 
witnesses successively their ability in brush-making, joinery, 
turning, weaving, and basket-making, which is considered the 
best employment for them, except music, for which they have 
a peculiar aptitude, and which is here cultivated with the 


336 TWELFTH WALK. 

utmost care. On ascending the first story, he is introduced 
to the school and music rooms, and next to the chapel, which 
occupies the centre; it is of the Ionic and Corinthian orders 
combined, and consists of a nave and two aisles, with a gal¬ 
lery above, and a semicircular choir, painted by Lehmann : 
the subject is Christ affording consolation to the blind. On the 
second floor are the dormitories, four for boys, and two for 
girls, besides a supplementary one in case of necessity. 
Dressing-rooms with tanks for water are contiguous to them. 
Here also are the rooms of the Sceurs de Ste. Marie, who 
attend in the infirmaries, which are two in number, one for 
each sex. A repetition of nearly the same rooms occurs on 
the side of the girls, arranged for occupations proper to their 
sex. The refectories are furnished with long marble tables, 
besides a long marble washing-basin with spouts, against the 
wall, and occupy the ground-floor, together with the kitchens, 
baths, &c. All the professors are blind, and the establishment 
requires hardly any aid of mechanics from without, nearly 
every thing being manufactured by the inmates. Water is 
supplied from the artesian well at Grenelle. The building is 
heated by means of hot-water pipes, and lit with alcohol 
mixed with a combustible liquid extracted from wood. A 
gymnastic apparatus is constructed in the garden, and the in¬ 
terior arrangements are admirably adapted for the health and 
comfort of the pupils. The children, if received gratuitously, 
must not be under 9 nor above 14 years of age, and are re¬ 
quired to produce certificates of their birth, freedom from con¬ 
tagious disease and idiotcy, as well as of their parents’ good 
conduct and indigence. For boarders no age is fixed. Among 
the elder pupils there are some excellent pianists and per¬ 
formers on the most difficultinstruments. They have a print¬ 
ing-office for the publication of books in relief, so that the 
child, by merely moving its fingers along the lines, can read 
with tolerable ease. The printers and compositors are all 
blind. Every pupil besides has books written by himself 
under dictation, by a process of pricking the paper which 
produces conventional letters in relief on the paper. This 
system, also used in print, was invented by M. Louis Braille, 
a professor of the establishment, born blind, who died in 
185*21, and whose bust may be seen in the vestibule. Some 
pupils excel in mathematics, and by the methods described can 
put on paper very intricate calculations. In the Salle des 
Ventes visitors will find a variety of articles for purchase, 
made by the inmates, some of them beautifully executed. At 
present there are about 250 pupils, including 75 females. The 
Government has allotted 1G0 bursaries of 800 fr. each for the 



HtfTEL DES INVALIDES. 337 

education of as many indigent pupils of either sex, and se¬ 
veral benevolent individuals have endowed the establishment 
in a similar way. On the last Saturday of every month 
there is an examination of the pupils, at which strangers are 
admitted with tickets, for which a written application must be 
made to the director; and four or live times a year there are 
public concerts held in the chapel. For admittance, apply to 
the Director on Wednesdays from 2 to 4. (1) 

At No. 151, rue de Sevres, we find the 
Hopital de Madame Necker, a building which was a con¬ 
vent of Benedictine nuns until 177 5. In 1779, at the sug¬ 
gestion of the wife of the celebrated M. Necker, Louis XVI. as¬ 
signed funds to convert it into an hospital. The chapel pos¬ 
sesses two line statues of Aaron and Melchizedek, in marble, 
purchased for 1,200 fr. from an individual who discovered 
them when digging the foundations of a house. This hospital 
is visible on Thursdays and Saturdays from l to 3 (see p. 140). 
Next door to this hospital, at No. 149, is the 
Hopital desEnfans Malades. —On this spot existed a cha¬ 
rity-school, called Maison de VEnfant Jesus, which was pur¬ 
chased, in 1732, by Languet de Gergy, rector of St. Sulpice, 
and opened for the reception of poor girls and sick women of 
his parish. It was afterwards converted into a school for the 
daughters of poor noblemen, and in 1802 was formed into an 
hospital for sick children. Strangers are admitted on Thurs¬ 
days and Sundays, from 1 to 3 (see p. 142.) 


2HIRTBE1TTH “WALK. 

This lies entirely within the 7 th arrondissement. We may 
commence it with the 

Place Vauban, a semicircular space, fronted by the 

£glise des Invalides. —This majestic structure was built by 
the architect Mansard, and finished in 1706. A square mass, 
138 feet in length, forms the body of the church. It is 
divided into two stories, and in the centre of each front is a 
projecting mass, with a pediment resting on composite columns. 
The southern and principal front is composed of two rows of 
columns, the lower of the Doric order, the upper of the Co¬ 
rinthian. Niches on each side contain statues of St. 
Louis and Charlemagne, and allegorical figures are also 

(l) The number of blind in all France is slated to be about 
39,ooo, besides 75,000 blind of one eye. 


22 






338 THIRTEENTH WALK. 

placed in front of the pilasters of the upper story. Above 
this, resting on a circular stylobate, rises the drum, which is 
outwardly surrounded by 40 coupled composite columns; and 
at the points corresponding to the angles of the lower stories 
are eight projecting buttresses, finished with engaged columns. 
An attic crowned with a balustrade, and adorned with arched 
windows, surmounts the drum, from within which springs the 
dome; its surface is divided by 12 gilt ribs into as many 
compartments, each adorned with trophies, arms, and other 
devices, also gilt. The dome is gilt, and surmounted by a lan¬ 
tern, with a spire, globe, and cross, making a height of 323 ft. 

On Mondays and Thursdays from 12 to 3, the public are 
admitted to visit the 

Interior .—The interior is circular, with branches of a Greek 
cross extending in the direction of the four cardinal points, 
forming the nave and transepts, between which are four 
circular chapels, each having three lofty arched entrances, 
one of which faces the centre of the church, now occupied 
by a circular parapet surrounding the crypt which con¬ 
tains the tomb of Napoleon I. Above this rises the dome, 
resting on four main arches, in the pendentives of which are 
paintings of the four Evangelists, by Delafosse and Lebrun. 
The attic over the pendentives is adorned with 12 medallions, 
containing portraits, in bas-relief, by Bosio, Tannay, Rux- 
thiet, and Cartelier, of Clovis, Dagobert, Pepin-le-Bref, Charle¬ 
magne, Louis-le-Debonnaire, Charles-le-Chauve, Philip Augus¬ 
tus, St. Louis, Louis XII., Henry IV., Louis XIII., and Louis 
XIV. (1) The attic is surmounted with a drum, pierced with 
12 arched windows, from the entablature of which springs 
the first cupola, painted by Jouvcnet, in 12 compartments, 28 
feet in height by 11 in breadth at bottom, and 8 at top, re¬ 
presenting the Apostles. The cupola ends in a circular cor¬ 
nice 54 feet in diameter, through which we see the second cu¬ 
pola, painted by Delafosse : St. Louis presenting his sword to 
Jesus surrounded by angels. This picture is 50 feet in dia 
meter, and contains upwards of 30 colossal figures. The 
ceiling over the high altar is painted by Noel Coypel, and 
represents the Assumption of the Virgin, and the Trinity, sur¬ 
rounded by angels. Those playing on musical instruments, 
which adorn the intrados of the windows, are, to the right, 
by Bon Boullongne; to the left, by Louis Boullongne.— 
Chapels and Transepts .—Over the entrances to the chapels 

(l) At the revolution of 1789 these portraits were transformed 
into those of Grecian and Roman philosophers, with Voltaire and 
Rousseau among them. Upon restoring them, Pepin le Bref was 
substituted for Childebert. 


TOMB OF NAPOLEON I. 339 

are bas-reliefs, representing events in the life of St. Louis. 
The chapel of St. Augustin, to the right on entering, is painted 
by Louis Boullongne, with scenes from the life of that saint. 
The bas-reliefs are by Flamant and Laprerie. In the centre 
of the chapel stands the tomb of King Joseph of Spain, the 
eldest brother of Napoleon I., and whose mortal remains 
were transferred hither in March, 1804. It consists of a sar¬ 
cophagus of black marble with white veins, resting on a 
tasteful but simple basement. In the adjoining transept is a 
monument to Vauhan, consisting of a sarcophagus of black 
marble, on which the figure of Vauhan reclines ; behind it 
is an obelisk bearing his arms and surrounded by trophies. 
Two statues, representing Genius and Prudence, by Elex, 
stand beside the hero. Next follows the chapel of St. Am¬ 
brose, painted by Bon Boullongne, in six compartments, repre¬ 
senting as many passages in the life of that saint. The cupola 
represents his apotheosis. The chapel opposite is enriched 
with bas-reliefs and sculptures by Le Cointe andPaltier; its 
cupola, painted in six compartments by Michel Corneille, 
represents passages of the life of St. Gregory. Next follows 
the western transept, with a monument to Turenne, brought 
here from St. Denis, composed by Lebrun and executed by 
Tuby. The marshal is represented expiring in the arms of 
Immortality. At the feet of the hero is the affrighted eagle 
of the German Empire ; an obelisk rises behind. The 
last chapel, dedicated to St. Jerome, has paintings by Bon 
Boullongne, of various incidents in the life of that saint. The 
sculptures are by Nicolas Coustou. Here we find to the left 
the tomb of King Jerome, a black marble sarcophagus resting 
on clawed feet of gilt bronze, and surmounted by a statue of 
the King, by Guillaume, partially enveloped in an ample 
cloak, his right hand resting on his marshal's baton. At the 
corners are two eagles supporting a laurel wreath, all of gilt 
bronze. Next comes an altar, behind which we see a small 
sarcophagus containing the heart of the Queen of Westphalia; 
and to the right a monument in the same style as that of the 
King, and covering the mortal remains of the young Prince 
Jerome. On one of the piers there is a marble monument to 
Marshal d’Ornano.— The High Altar. —It is ascended by ten 
steps of white marble ; the altar-table is of black marble, sur¬ 
mounted by four spiral columns of the same material, black 
and white, supporting a canopy, all profusely gilt. Winding 
staircases on either side of the high altar descend to the iron 
railing communicating with the old church, opposite which 
is the entrance to the crypt containing the 

Tomb of Napoleon /.—This entrance is flanked by two 


THIRTEENTH WALK. 


340 

sarcophagi resting upon plinths, and surmounted by two Co¬ 
rinthian columns crowned with segmental pediments; one 
is dedicated to Marshal Duroc, the olher to Marshal Ber¬ 
trand, the Emperor’s friends during his adversity. A bronze 
door gives access to the crypt; over it, on a black marble 
slab, are the following words, quoted from the Emperor’s will: 

“Je desire que mes cendres reposent sur les Lords de la 
Seine, au milieu de ce peuple Framjais que j’ai lant aime.” 

Two colossal bronze caryatides, by Duret, at the entrance, hold ' 
the globe, sceptre, and imperial crown. A gloomy gallery, 
running under the high altar, now leads to the crypt, dimly 
lighted by funereal lamps of bronze, and adorned with bas- 
reliefs, designed by Simart, and executed by Lanno, Petit, 
and Ottin, representing : 1. The Termination of Civil War ; 2. 
the Concordat; 3. the Reform of the Administration ; 4. the 
Council of State; 5. the Code; G. the University ; 7. the Court 
of Accounts ; 8. the Encouragement of Trade and Commerce; 
9. Public Works; 10. the Legion of Honour ; all due to the 
energy of the late Emperor. The pavement of the crypt is de¬ 
corated with a crown of laurels in mosaic, within which, on a 
black circle, are inscribed the names of the following victories: 
Rivoli, Pyramids, Marengo, Austerlitz, Iena, Friedland, Wag- 
ram, and Moskowa. Twelve colossal statues, by Pradier, re¬ 
presenting as many victories, stand against the pilasters, facing 
the tomb, which consists of an immense monolith of porphyry, 
weighing 135,000 lbs., and brought from Lake Onega in Finland 
at a cost of 140,000fr. Its exquisite polish has been effected by 
a powerful steam-engine. It covers the sarcophagus, also of a 
single block, 12 feet long and 6 in breadth, resting upon two 
plinths, which stand on a block of green granite, brought from 
the Vosges. The total height is 13 14 feet. In the gallery which 
encircles the crypt is a recess, called the Chapelle Ardente , 
containing the sword the Emperor wore at Austerlitz, the in¬ 
signia he used to wear on state occasions, the crown of gold 
voted by the town of Cherbourg, and the colours taken in 
different battles. At the furthest end of the recess is the 
statue of the Emperor in his imperial robes, due to the chisel 
of Simart. This reliquaire is closed with gilt doors. The 
crypt is only visible from the circular parapet above. The 
marble of this monument has cost 2,ooo,ooofr., and the whole 
expense amounts to 9,000,000 fr. (1) 

In a vault beneath the pavement of the dome are deposited 

(l) The mortal remains of Napoleon I. were solemnly trans¬ 
ferred to the sarcophagus on the 2d of April, I86i. A medal 
commemorative of the event, and offered by the living remnants 
of the Grande Armee , was enclosed with the coffin. 


HOTEL DES IJNVAL1DES. 341 

the bodies of Marshal Mortier and the other 14 victims of 
Fieschi’s attempt (see p. 233). 

The small green esplanade in front of the southern porch was 
formerly bounded by a fosse, over which a drawbridge served 
as an entrance for the king whenever he visited the church. 

The stranger should now follow the Boulevard, which 
leads northward to the 

Hotel des Invalides. —In 1596, under the reign of Henry 
IV., an asylum for invalids was formed in an old convent in 
the Faubourg St. Marcel. This institution was removed to 
Bicetre, by Louis XIII. In 1670, during the administration 
of Louvois, Louis XIV., by whose wars the number of invalids 
was greatly increased, laid the foundations of the present 
edifice ; the main building, as well as the first church, were 
finished about 1706, by Bruant. The second church, de¬ 
scribed above, was destined for the celebration of festivals 
and military anniversaries. The whole edifice now covers 
28 acres of ground, enclosing 15 courts. In 17 89 it took 
the name of Temple de VHumanile; and during the turbulence 
of that period was always respected. Under Napoleon it was 
called Temple de Mars, and the number of its inmates was 
frightfully increased. In 1815 it resumed its original title. 
This magnificent institution is under the direction of the Mi¬ 
nister of War. The staff of the establishment comprises : 
a marshal of France, a general of division, governor; a ge¬ 
neral of brigade, commander ; a colonel, major ; eight cap¬ 
tains, adjutants. There is an administrative council com¬ 
posed of 13 members, including three senators and the 
commander. There are also one cure, two chaplains, one 
chief physician, one chief apothecary and 10 assistants; 
2 6 Sisters of Charity, and 2 60 servants of all kinds. The 
Hotel is divided into 14 divisions, each of which has a 
chief of division, an adjutant and sub-adjutant. The gover¬ 
nor has 40,000 fr. per annum; the general-commandant, 
15,000 fr.; the intendant, 12,000 fr., and the colonel-major, 
7000 fr. All soldiers who are actually disabled by their 
wounds, or who have served 30 years, and obtained a pen¬ 
sion, are entitled to the privileges of this institution. The 
whole of the invalids, amounting at the present moment to 
1,2 00, officers included, are boarded, lodged, and clothed. 
The table-service of the officers is of plate, the gift of Maria 
Louisa. For meals, the inmates of the Hotel are divided into 
three parties; the hours of the first are 9 a.m. and 4 p. m.; 
those of the second 10 and 5, and those of the third, con 
sisting of the employes, half past 10 and half past 5. The 
soldiers have for breakfast, soup, beef, and a dish of vege- 


342 THIRTEENTH WALK. 

tables; for dinner, meat or eggs, and vegetables; cheese, on 
Fridays. At each repast about a quarter of a pound of meat 
is served to each man, who also receives a litre of wine 
and i / 2 pound of white bread daily; the wine and bread are 
of the same quality for all ranks of officers and men, but the 
officers have an extra dish allowed. Each man has his bed, 
straw and wool mattresses, and bolster, with a press for his 
clothes. Strangers are recommended to visit the Invalides 
at meal-time. Any person not consuming his allowance may 
receive an equivalent in money ; those deprived of legs are 
allowed money instead of shoes. The pay of the invalids for 
minor expenses is according to the following scale per month : 
—private soldier, 3 fr. ; corporal, 4fr. 20 c.; lieutenant, 
without special duties, and sergeant, 5 fr. loc. ; sergeant- 
major, 6 fr. ; captain, without special duties, G fr. ; adjutant, 
7 fr. 20 c.; sous-lieutenant, 10 fr. 50 c.; acting lieutenant, 
12 fr.; captain, 15 fr.; chef-de-bataillon, 21 fr.; lieutenant- 
colonel, 24 fr.; colonel, 30 fr. The hotel will hold 5,000 in¬ 
valids : there are still about 900 left of the soldiers of the 
Empire, and very few of the Republic. They all wear the 
same uniform; their only duty, at their own request, is to 
mount guard in the hotel. The number of officers is about 17 0. 

Exterior .—The Hotel has a wide terrace in front, laid out 
as a garden, and armed with a quantity of large guns taken 
in battle, some of which are worth inspection. (1) 

The front of the hotel is G12 feet in length; it is divided into 
four stories, and presents three pavilions. The central one 
is decorated with Ionic pilasters, supporting an arch, on the 

(l) The following is an exact list of them : - Cannon : Austrian, 
one 48-pounder, and one 27 ; Prussian, eight 21 ; Dutch, two 
24 ; Wirtemberg, one of 12 ; Venetian, one of 32. Long how¬ 
itzers . two Russian of 0 . 20 . Mortars: Iwo Algerine of 0 . 33 . 
There are also disposed on the right and left 20 guns, viz., 16 
Algerian 24-pounders; i Chinese, o.l56; I Cochin-Chinese, 
o.iso; and 2 French, 12. The Austrian 48-pounder was cast 
at, Vienna in 1681. On its chase is an eagle, with outstretched 
wings, pouncing on a dolphin, darting iis beak into the head 
and its talons into the sides, and bearing the motto, “ Conquer 
or die.” The 27-pounder was cast in 1 580 ; it has also a bird on 
the chase, with the following motto in German : “ As soon as 
my song resounds in the air, walls will fall to the earth before 
me.” The eight Prussian guns were cast at Berlin in 1708, by 
order of Frederick 1., and were taken at Austerlitz. Each gun 
was dedicated to one of the Electors, whose likeness, in relief, 
is on the chase. The two Dutch 24-pounders were taken in the 
citadel of Antwerp in 1S32. The Venetian 32-pounders bears Ihe 
arms of the Republic, and the Lion of SI. Mark holding the 
Golden Book, The two Russian howitz rs came from Sebastopol, 


HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 343 

tympan of which is a bas-relief of Louis XIV. on horseback, 
sculptured by Coustou, jun., and restored in 1816 by Car- 
telier. On the pedestal is this inscription : — 

Ludovicus Magnus, militibus regali munificentia in per- 
petuum providens, has aedes posuit An. M.DC.LXXV. 

Statues of Mars and Minerva in bronze, by Coustou, jun., 
adorn the entrance. The triangular pediments of the extreme 
pavilions are adorned with military trophies, resting upon 
attics. Their roofs are crowned by square terraces surrounded 
with balustrades. The four bronze figures at the corners of 
these pavilions, representing vanquished nations, by Desjar¬ 
dins, formerly adorned the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place 
des Vicloires ; they are 12 feet high, and were placed here in 
1800. The dormar-windows represent military trophies, 
consisting of a cuirass and helmet. The principal front has 
two lateral entrances, and a central one leading into the Cour 
d’Honneur, which is 315 feet long, 192 feet broad, and is 
overlooked by arched galleries, which are now receiving fine 
mural paintings by M. Benedict Masson. They represent 
the ages of Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XIV., Napoleon L, 
Peace and War, &c. The central projection of the southern 
side, hearing in front a statue of Napoleon I., is an Ionic 
and Corinthian colonnade, with statues of Time and Study 
in the pediment, and crowned by a campanile. The wings 
right and left are occupied by the governor and his staff. 
The western part of the Hotel is now converted into barracks 
for 2,ooo infantry. 

Library .—The library, founded by Napoleon, contains about 
30,000 volumes on theology, jurisprudence, belles-lettres, and 
strategy, and possesses manuscripts of Sully and Colbert, a fine 
picture of Napoleon I. ascending Mont St. Bernard, copied from 
David, another of Napoleon III., by Laugier, and a model of 
the Hotel itself. Next to the latter are two gilt candlesticks 
which belonged to Marshal Turenne, the cannon-ball (weighing 
3 lb.) by which he was killed, and a small equestrian statue of 
that hero executed in gold and silver. In front of one of the 
windows is a fine model of IheColonne Vendome. The library 
is open from 9 to 3, except on Sundays and festivals. Books 
cannot be consulted without a permission from the bureau. 

Council-Chamber .—This is in the passage west of the li¬ 
brary on the same floor. The Salle d’Altentc contains a nu¬ 
merous collection of miniature drawings of all the flags and 
banners taken in war from the time of Henry IV. to the present, 
besides the banners of many towns of France. Here also we 
see a chalk drawing, in medallions, of various subjects re¬ 
lating to the captivity of St. Helena, with leaves and other 


THIRTEENTH WALK. 


344 

relics of the place fixed on it, an elaborate work by Lieut. 
Goy ; also the bronze frame which surmounted the coffin 
containing the ashes of Napoleon I. when brought over to 
Paris in 1842. A piece of the wood of the coffin is set in 
the base of this frame. In the adjoining Salle des Marechaux 
are portraits, by Vernier, of Marshals Bessieres, Suchet, Pe- 
rignon, Augereau, Kellermann, de Broglie, Beurnonville, Due 
de Bellisle, Lannes, Gouvion St. Cyr, Massena, Clarke, Mon- 
cey, Lauriston, Ney, Brune, Lefebvre, Davoust, Oudinot, 
Victor, Daumesnil, Berthier, and Prince Eugene. On a pe¬ 
destal we see a bronze statue of Louis XIV., and in a glass 
stand the sword and hat of Napoleon I. The Salle du 
Conseil contains portraits of the Governors of the Hotel des 
Invalides, viz. Lemacon, Panat, Guibert, Sombreuil, who was 
guillotined during the revolution of 17 89, Berruyer, Ser- 
rurier, Duke de Coigny, Latour Maubourg, Jourdan, and Le- 
tellier. There are three marble busts, one of Napoleon by F. 
Bosio, another of Louis Napoleon by Emile Thomas, and one of 
King Jerome, executed and presented to the Invalides by Count 
d’Orsay; a full-length portrait of Louis XIV. by Rigault, and 
another of Napoleon by Ingres. Over the door are two me¬ 
dallions, by Vernier, with portraits of Mansard, and Bruant, 
the architects of the Hotel. 

Dormitories. —These are on the first and second stories, 
and consist of 12 spacious rooms, called the Salles Vauban, 
d’Hautpoul, de Luxembourg, de Mars, d’Assas, de Latour 
d’Auvergne, de Bayard, de Kleber, Moncey, Bertrand, Louvois, 
and Molitor. They contain each from 50 to 55 beds. The 
other rooms contain each from 4 to 8 beds. The infirmaries 
are extensive and well ventilated. 

Refectories and Kitchens. —In the piles of buildings to the 
right and left, on entering the Cour d’Honneur, are four grand 
refectories, or dining-rooms. Each of them is 150 feet in 
length by 24 in breadth. One is devoted to the officers, and 
the three others to the sub-officers and privates. They con¬ 
tain some indifferent paintings in fresco, representing fortified 
towns and places in Flanders, Holland, Alsace, Franche Comte, 
Burgundy, £cc., conquered by Louis XIV. In each are 30 
round tables, for messes of 12. There are two kitchens, one 
for the officers, the other for the privates. The consumption 
of the hotel is about 3,000 lbs. of meat and 00 bushels of 
vegetables daily, cooked in different ways. 

Galeries des Plans Reliefs des Forteresses de France. —This 
is a collection of upwards of fifty plans in relief of the fortresses 
of France, which occupies two long galleries on the 4th story, 
connected by a transversal gallery, west of the Cour d’HonneuVs 


HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 345 

Here may be seen, in the proportion of 1 to GOO, the models 
of Perpignan, Cherbourg, Antibes, Strasburg, Bayonne, Belle 
Isle, Oleron, St. Martin de Re, 11am, Villefranche in the Pyre¬ 
nees, Dunkerque, Mont St. Michel, Besancon, &c. Several of 
them occupy a space of from 220 to 240 square feet; the houses, 
rivers, the adjacent country, hills, mountains, etc., are exe¬ 
cuted with great precision in wood, plaster, and other materials. 
There are also models of the battle of Lodi, the last siege of 
Rome, and that of Sebastopol. Open to visitors from May 
15th to June 30th, with ticket, to be obtained by applying in 
writing to M. le Gouverneur des Jnvalides. 

Church. —Th cEglise ancienne, which is separated from the 
Dome (see p. 338), by an elegant railing, consists of a long nave, 
and two low aisles, supporting a gallery. It is Corinthian, 
66 feet in height, and about 210 feet in length. Under the 
windows banners taken from the enemy are ranged along 
both sides of the arched nave (1). Most of the piers of the 
nave bear inscriptions on marble, to the memory of the go¬ 
vernors of the hotel, and of the Duke de Coigny, Marshal 
Jourdan, Marshal St. Arnaud, &c. Two bronze tablets are 
besides inscribed with other names, amongst which are those 
of Marshal Mortier, killed in 1835 by Fieschi’s infernal machine. 
Marshal Damremont, who died before Constantinein 1837, Mar¬ 
shal Bugeaud, 1849, and Generals Negrier and Duvivier, killed 
in the insurrection of June, 1848. Governors dying while hold¬ 
ing office are alone allowed to be buried under the nave, and 
to have monuments erected in the church. The pulpit is of 
white marble with bronze bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects. 
The dome is described at p. 338. 

The Hotel des Invalided may be inspected by strangers daily 
from 11 to half-past 3. There are Invalides ready to act as 

(l) In the lime of Napoleon nearly 5000 flags filled the nave; 
but on the evening before the entry of the allied armies into Paris, 
March 31, 1814, the Duke de Fellre, Minister of War, by order of 
Joseph Bonaparte, commanded them to he burnt, and the sword 
of Frederick the Great, which was preserved here, to be broken. 
The orders to that effect were given thrice before they were 
obeyed. Ten of the flags were saved by private individuals, 
and not restored to the Invalides until 1S6S. On the 12 th of 
August 1851, a fire broke out here on the occasion of the funeral 
of Marshal Sebastiani; five out of the 250 flags were consumed, 
and many damaged. The parasol of command taken in the 
war with Morocco in 1844 was injured; the high altar and a 
large painting were completely destroyed. The Austrian flags 
taken at Magenta and Solferino have been placed here, toge¬ 
ther with two flags tdkep from the Moors and five flags from 
Mexico, 


34G THIRTEENTH WALK. 

guides for a small fee, and a trifle will be expected by those 
who show the Council-Chamber, Kitchen, and Refectories. 

In front of this Hotel, and extending to the Seine, lies the 
Esplanade des Invalides , consisting of six squares, planted 
with trees in 17 50 and 1818; it measures 1440 feet by 7 80, 
and reaches to the Quai d’Orsay. In the circular space situ¬ 
ated at one third of the central avenue, there stood a foun¬ 
tain, ornamented with the celebrated bronze lion brought 
from the Piazza San Marco, at Venice, but restored in 1815. 

At No. 127, rue de Crenelle, is the lldtel da Chdtelet, a 
splendid specimen of the grandeur of the days of Louis XIV. 
It is inhabited by the Archbishop of Paris. Nearly oppo¬ 
site is the 

Ecolc d'Etat Major (see p. 98.) On the site of the ad¬ 
joining cavalry barracks stood the Eglise Ste. Valere. The 
ground afterwards belonged to the Davoust family, and then 
to Mr. Hope. At No. 77, rue de Varennes, is the H6tel de 
Biron, now occupied by the Dames da Sacre Cceur. 

At No. G9, rue de Babylone is the chapel of the Oriental 
Society for the union of all the Christians of the East. At No. 
49 are infantry barracks famous for the attack they sustained 
in the revolution of 1830. Near this, at No. 12, rue Mon¬ 
sieur, is the Armenian College; and at No. 27, rue Oudinot, 
the establishment of the Freres des Ecoles Chretiennes. 

Passing into the rue de Sevres, we find, at No. 86, the 
Convent of Socurs de la Congregation de Notre Dame, com¬ 
monly called the Convent des Oiseaux, and at No. 9 5 the 
Couvent des Lazaristes, where the visitor will perceive 
one of the most tastefully decorated chapels in Paris. It con¬ 
sists of a nave and two aisles, separated by Doric columns, 
with galleries above. The ceiling is elegantly painted and 
gilt, in compartments, in the Italian style ; the windows 
display, in stained glass, passages from the life of St. Vin¬ 
cent de Paul. A winding staircase to the left, outside the 
chapel, gives access to the galleries, where, besides the con¬ 
fessionals, we see a series of well-executed paintings by 
Father Francis, one of the brethren. The subjects are—The 
Presentation, Annunciation, and Visitation; the Adoration of 
the Magi, Christ disputing in the Temple, and the Sermon on 
the Mount. Nearly opposite, is the 
Fontaine Egyptienne.— Constructed in 180G. It consists 
of the statue of an Egyptian pouring water from two vases 
into a semicircular basin. Close by is the 

Hospice des Incurables (Femmes), 42, rue de Sevres.—This 
house, originally called Hdpital des Incurables, was founded 
in 1634, by Cardinal de la Rochefoucault. A spacious court 


MISSIONS 12TRANGERES. 347 

leads to the chapel, the front of which has a gable surmounted 
by an iron belfry, and is deserving of attention. Two niches 
with statues of Religion and Faith flank the entrance. The 
interior is cruciform, without aisles. In tiie nave we see 
some good pictures : an Annunciation, the Virgin and Child, 
the Visitation, a Holy Family, and an Adoration of the 
Shepherds, on wood, dated 1404. In the left transept an 
Ecce Homo , an old painting of the Adoration of the Magi, and 
a long list of the benefactors to the establishment. The most 
remarkable pictures in the right transept are two of the 
Flemish school, one representing the Saviour holding a 
skein of thread, which his mother is winding into a ball ; 
while in the other he holds aboard steady, which Joseph is in 
the act of sawing. In the same transept is also a handsome 
marble monument to the founder, representing him kneeling on 
a sarcophagus, and an Angel holding his train. The infirmaries 
consist of long galleries partitioned into separate rooms, one 
for each patient, modestly but sufficiently furnished, and which 
gives them the appearance of streets. Visitors meet with po¬ 
lite attention, and are admitted from 12 to 4, ( sec p. 121.) 

The rue de Sevres and rue du Bac meet on the site formerly 
occupied by the Cemetery of St. Sulpice. In the rue du Bac, 
at No. 140, is the H6tel Chatillon, built by a pupil of Man¬ 
sard, and now occupied by the Congregation, or convent, des 
Soeurs de St. Vincent de Paule. North of this stands 

St. Francois Xavier, or, Eglise des Missions Etran- 
Geres, second chapel of ease to St. Thomas d’Aquin, 128, 
rue du Bac.—A missionary seminary was founded at this 
spot in the 17 111 century, by Bernard de Ste. Therese, Bishop 
of Babylon. The church was begun in 1083, after the designs 
of Dubuisson. It consists of two parts, one on the ground- 
floor, and the other above. The lower church is perfectly 
plain, and service is performed in it only on Sundays. The 
upper one is Ionic. Over the altar is the Adoration of the 
Magi, by Couder; in the left transept, St. Louis washing 
the feet of the poor, by Bon Bouilongne; and opposite, the 
Apotheosis of St. Francis Xavier ; on the north side of the 
choir is a good painting, by Luca Giordano, of Christ driving 
the money-changers from the Temple. In the right transept, 
used as a chapel of the Virgin, is a Holy Family. The altar 
is of white marble, and has three fine bas-reliefs of Hope, 
Faith, and Charity. There is a’Chinese bell here, weighing 
700 kilogrammes, taken at Canton in 1858 by Admiral Rigault 
de Genouilly. It has no clapper, the sound being produced by 
a wooden hammer. In this seminary young men are instructed 
in the sciences and languages necessary for missionaries in the 





34 8 THIRTEENTH WALK. 

East; among its members was the virtuous Abbe Edgeworth 
who attended Louis XVI. in his last moments on the scatfold 

In the rue de Varennes, at No. 53, is the H6tel Monaco 
formerly belonging to Princess Adelaide, now sold to th 
Duke de Galliera. It was constructed by Brongniart, ane 
stands in a fine garden, with a long avenue reaching quite t< 
the ruedeBabylone. Gen. Cavaignac resided in it while he hel( 
the office of Chief of the Executive Power in 184 8, anc 
M. Baroche, President of the Council of State, in 1853. No 
69, in the rue de Varennes, is the H6tel d’Orsay, purchased 
and embellished by Count Duchatel. 

In the rue de Grenelle, at No. 103, there are still some 
offices of the Minister of the Interior. 

At No. 110, is the Hotel of the Minister of Public Instruc¬ 
tion, and at No. 116, the Hotel Forbin Janson, remarkable 
for its elegant entrance, and now the Mairie of the 7 th 
arrondissement. Near this, at No. 106, rue de Grenelle, is 
the ancient convent of Pentemont, now used as barracks for 
cavalry. Only a part of the old buildings still exists. The 
church, devoted to the Protestant service, fronts the street, 
and is surmounted by a well-proportioned dome. It is cruci¬ 
form, and ornamented with Ionic pilasters. This street con¬ 
tains some hotels of the most ancient nobility of France. 

The streets east and west of the rue Bellechasse occupy the ' 
ground formerly known under the name of the Pre aux ■ 
Clercs, celebrated for the endless petty disputes it gave rise to 
between the University and the Abbey of St. Germain-des- 
Pres. The University claiming jurisdiction over this ground, 
the students used to repair thither for their diversion, and it 
consequently soon became a constant scene of debauchery, 
duelling, and confusion, to the great scandal of the reverend 
fathers and peaceful bourgeois of St. Germain, who had often 
to defend the inviolability of their homes with arms in their 
hands. (1) On the Place Bellechasse, formerly a dependency 
of the Convent of the Augustins du St. Sepulchre, we see, 

(l) In 1278, Gerard de Moret, abbot of St. Germain-des-Pr6s, 
caused some walls to be erected on the road to the Pre aux 
Clercs, as a protection against the students; but the latter 
pulled them down, alleging that they encroached upon the 
road. The abbot, however, caused the alarm-bell to be rung, 
and the domestics and subjects of the abbey fell upon the stu¬ 
dents, the abbot and monks cheering their adherents all the 
while with cries of Tue 1 Tucl Many students were taken pri¬ 
soners, and others either mortally wounded or maimed. The 
University threatened to close her doors unless immediate satis¬ 
faction were granted for this outrage; whereupon the abbot,his 
monks, and their provost, were condemned to various penalties 




STE. CLOTILDE* 349 

• fronted by an elegant square planted with trees, and com¬ 
prising 1,738 square metres, the church of 

Ste. Clotilde, chapel of ease to St. Thomas d’Aquin. This 
church, commenced in 1846, after the designsof M. Gau, is con- 
fi structed in the pointed style, 96 metres in length by 38 in 
t breadth ; the height of the nave is 2 6 metres. The front con- 
11 sists of three entrances, separated by buttresses and sur¬ 
mounted by two galleries and a wheel-window, crowned by a 
“ gable between two spired steeples, 69 metres in height. The 
gable is surmounted by a statue of St. Clotilda; four statues of 
s saints occupy the niches fronting the buttresses, and twenty- 
eight more adorn the three entrances, the pointed receding 

• arches of which are profusely sculptured with wreaths of taste- 
6 ful design. They are approached by a flight of steps extending 
h along the whole breadth, and give access to a spacious pro- 
$ pylseum. Three has reliefs adorn the ogives of the inner 
r doors, the central one representing the Crucifixion, by Tous- 
e saint, that to the left, the Baptism of Clovis, and that to the 
, right, the Martyrdom of St. Valeria, both by Oudine. The 

• buttresses are pinnacled ; the roof is all iron. 

Interior. —The church is cruciform, and consists of a nave 
and two aisles; there is a chapel on each side on entering, 
t and there are five more around the apsis of the choir. The 
c windows of the chapels are single; those of the nave and 
) aisles, double; the transepts receive light from large wheel- 
■ windows, below which there is a double window, flanked by 
, single ones. The chief feature of interest is the excellent 
t stained glass in the windows, after the designs of Galimard, 

, Amaury-Duval, and Jourdy. (l) The baptismal chapel to 
I the left on entering, contains frescoes by Delaborde, repre- 
i senting the Baptism of Christ and that of St. Agnes ; St. Remv, 
and lastly, St. Francis Xavier baptizing the Indians. The 
chapel opposite, in the right-hand aisle, has the following 

( 1 ) The subjects are, left aisle on entering. \. St. John the 
Baptist. 2 . St. Denis, St. Cecilia. 3 . St. Helena, St. Hilarius. A. 
St. Prosper, St. Camilla. 5 . St. Germain, St. Genevieve. 6 . St. 
ltodegunda, St. Gregory.—Opposite aisle from the transept: 7 . St. 
Monegunda, St. Medard. 8 . St. Pulcheria, St. Leo. 9 . St. Ursula, 
St. Donatianus. 10. St. Paul, St. Christina. H. St. Victor, St. 
Agatha. 12. The Saviour.—Transepts, lateral windows : the Evan¬ 
gelists and Twelve Prophets—Front windows, to the left: Christ 
and the Virgin; opposite, Christ and Moses.—Chapels of the choir: 
i. Six medallions with Passages from the Life of St Louis of 
France. 2. Nine medallions with Scenes from the Old and New 
Testament. 3. The Lady Chapel: the Life of the Virgin in fifteen 
medallions. 4 . The Life of St. Joseph, in nine medallions. 5. 
six medallions with Passages from the Life of St. Remy. 










350 THIRTEENTH WALK. 

subjects by the same artist: Christ declaring himself the Good 
Shepherd, Jesus and Mary Magdalen, the lloly Women on 
their way to anoint the body of Christ, the Entombment. 
Above : Hope and Piety. The piers of the choir are connected 
by dwarf walls, enriched towards the aisles with bas-reliefs, 
representing, in the left aisle : 1. The Marriage of Clovis ; 2. 
Clodomir is cured ; 3. The Baptism of Clovis; 4. Death of 
Ste. Clotilde. In the right aisle : t. St. Valeria converted; 

2. Condemned to Death ; 3. Her execution ; 4. She is seen 
carrying her head to St. Martial. Of the five chapels of the 
choir, the first in the right aisle, painted in fresco by Pils, 
represents passages from the life of St. Reini, viz., his Con¬ 
secration, the Baptism of Clovis, St. Remi organizing mis¬ 
sions, and his apotheosis. The next, by Bezard, displays 
passages in the life of St. Joseph, in six compartments ; the 
third, in 12 compartments, by Lenepveu; to the left, passages 
in the life of the Virgin ; to the right, passages from the Life 
of Jesus; the 4th. by Brissot, passages from the life of St. 
Helena; also Christ carrying his cross, the crucifixion, and 
figures of Constantine and St. Sylvester. The last chapel 
in the left aisle, painted by Laemlein, has, 1. St. Louis 
receiving the crown; 2. Discoursing under his favourite t ee; 

3. Carrying the crown of thorns, and 4. Tending the sick. 
The organ-loft is over the entrance. This church which has 
cost 8,000,000 fr., was inaugurated in 1857, and has received i 
a set of bells forming a complete octave, so that the peals rung < 
from the belfries of Ste. Clotilde are the most musical in Paris. < 

At Nos. 82 and 80 is the War-Office, formerly a convent of I 
the Filles de St. Joseph. The buildings take up a considerable I 
portion of the rue St. Dominique, and extend northward to the 1 
rue de l’Universite, where, at No. 71, is the c 

Depot de la Guerre.— This office is subdivided into four 1 
sections, viz. :—1. That of the map of France, with 83 a 
draughtsmen and engravers ; 2. that of topographical opera- g 
tions ; 3. that of historical labours, comprising the classitica- a 
/ion of the Archives, the service of the Library, &c., and c 
lastly that of military statistics and regimental affairs. The ti 
depot contains a valuable library, of upwards of 20,000 ti 
volumes, and celebrated for the following treasures : the com- ti 
plete correspondence of the Ministers of War, from the reign & 
of Louis XIII. to 1814 ; the autograph letters of Louis XIV. to it 
Philip V., his grandson, King of Spain ; the military memoirs P 
relative to the wars of the Spanish succession ; the correspond- II 
ence of Napoleon I., filling 300 drawers; a book bound in ; 
green morocco, with the title “ Napoleon Bonaparte,” and i p< 
containing his certificates of baptism and nobility, all the l 


ST. THOMAS D’AQUIN. 351 

orders transmitted to him during his military service, &c.; 
autograph letters of Conde, Jourdan, Hochc, Massena, Ney, 
&c., and the manuscripts of Vauban, Folard, Guibert, Bourcet, 
and other eminent military men. It also possesses a series of 
exact surveys of the battles of Napoleon, and many important 
documents, which are being published under the title of Me¬ 
morial da Depdt de la Guerre . To visit this library apply to 
M. le Directeur du Depdt de la Guerre, 82, rue St. Dominique. 

The rue St. Dominique, which in 1542 bore the name of 
Chemin des 1 'aches, and afterwards that of Chemin de la Jus¬ 
tice, is celebrated for its noble residences; for example, the 
Hotel of the Duchess Doivager of Orleans, No. 62, formerly 
inhabited by the Arch-chancellor of the Empire, Cambaceres, 
and now occupied by the Ministry of Public Works; the Ho¬ 
tel de Grammont, No. 113; and the Hdtel de Perigord , No. 
115, now the property of Prince DemidofF. 


POTJKTEE1TTH WALK. 

This comprises the rest of the 7 th, and part of the 6th ar- 
rondissements. In the Place St. Thomas d’Aquin is the 
church of 

St. Thomas d’Aquin, —designed by Pierre Bullet, and built 
in 1683 for a convent of Jacobins, founded by Cardinal Ri¬ 
chelieu. The front, rebuilt in 17 87, by Brother Claude, 
one of the monks, is decorated with two ranges of Doric and 
Ionic columns, surmounted by a pediment, containing a 
bas-relief representing Religion. This church is 132 feet in 
length, and 72 feet in height. The interior is Corinthian and 
cruciform, with single aisles, and has the following frescoes by 
Blondel, viz.—In the cupola over the intersection of the nave 
and transept • four compartments, containing the four Evan¬ 
gelists, Christ holding the Gospel, and the Virgin adored by 
angels. In the pendentives : St. Thomas d’Aquin, St. Fran¬ 
cois de Sales, St. Vincent de Paule, and St. Dominic. Left 
transept, over the altar : the Marriage of the Virgin. Right 
transept: Simeon blessing Jesus. Over the lateral arches of the 
transepts: Faith, Hope, Charity, and Divine Justice. On the 
ceilings of the transepts : medallions with Angels carrying the 
instruments of the Passion. On the walls of the choir : St. 
Peter and St. Paul; its semi-cupola is richly gilt. Flanking 
the altars of the transepts ; medallions with figures of the Vir¬ 
gin and St. Vincent de Paule. Behind the high altar is a cha¬ 
pel to St. Louis, with a picture of that saint; the ceiling, by 
Lemoine, represents the Ascension; the frescoes on the walls 






352 FOURTEENTH WALK. 

represent the Bearing of the Ark. Over the doors leading 
to this chapel are pictures of St. Catherine of the Wheel, and 
St. Louis praying. The other pictures in this church are, in 
the left aisle : the Prodigal Son, by Roehn; the Conversion of 
St. Paul, by La Hire; and St. Thomas d’Aquin stilling a storm 
at sea, by Scheffer. In the right hand aisle : Magdalen at the 
Calvary; Paul before Festus, by Vouet, painted in 1639; a 
Descent from the Cross, by Guillemot, and a Holy Family of 
the Flemish School. The church is celebrated for its preachers, 
and fashionable congregations. 

Adjoining this church, 3, Place St. Thomas d’Aquin, is the 

Musee d’Artillerie. —This highly interesting and curious 
museum, a visit to which should not be omitted, established 
in the ancient convent of the Feuillans in 17 94, was removed 
to this convent of the Jacobins in 1797, and was originally 
formed of arms from the Garde-Meuble de la Couronne, the Cha¬ 
teau de Chantilly, the Chateau de Sedan, the Bastille, and 
other armories. During the wars of the First Napoleon the 
museum was greatly increased by spoils from the enemy, but 
in 1814 was much diminished by the removal of arms claimed 
by the allies; in 1815, the Prussians alone carrying off 580 
chests. (1) In the passage leading to the rooms of the ground- 
floor there are guns of various calibres, from the roughest con¬ 
trivances in the infancy of the invention to the most elegant 
forms of later days. Among them are several mortars of 
hammered iron left by the English before Meaux in 1422, 
Turkish pieces with Arabic inscriptions, four pieces taken 
from St. Juan d’Ulloa in 1838, Russian guns, taken at Sebas¬ 
topol and Bomarsund, some Austrian ones taken at Solferino, 
a few Chinese guns, and some others made by way of ex¬ 
periment. An immense chain is suspended along the walls, 
590 feet in length, and weighing 7,896 pounds, called 
the Chaim du Danube, from having been used by the 
Turks for a pontoon bridge over that river, at the siege of 
Vienna, in 1683. All round the adjoining court Russian cast- 
iron coast-and-siege ordnance are seen placed upright against 
the wall. On entering the vestibule on the ground floor, 
we find Field-pieces, howitzers, culverins, and falconets. 
Two pieces of large calibre, with Arabic inscriptions, flank 
the inner door. Next is the Salle des Modeles, with models 
in the proportion of 1 to 6, of cannon, gun-carriages, ammu¬ 
nition-waggons, &c. Prussian, Dutch, Norwegian, and other 
fire-arms are arranged in racks against the walls. There are 
also here some Russian muskets taken at Bomarsund. Ja¬ 
panese and Mongolian armour, arms which belonged to the 

(l) The visitor can have an excellent catalogue for \ franc. 




MUSEE D’ARTILLEME. 353 

Emperor of China, his war-saddle taken at Pekin in I860, 
his military dress, his rich poniard, and other Chinese wea¬ 
pons. On ascending the staircase, we see three plaster casts 
of antique reliefs, found in the vicinity of the Rhine, one of 
which represents a Roman soldier armed at all points. We 
now enter the Salle des Armures, of Doric design. The 
ceiling is painted in grisaille, with arms and attributes of 
war. It is lit by semi-circular windows; the walls are hung 
with trophies of helmets, coats of mail, shields, 8cc., and de¬ 
corated with inscriptions commemorating the Grand Masters 
of artillery and other high officers of the French army from 
the remotest periods. Fronting the door there are seven glass 
stands, containing specimens of Greek, Roman, Celtic and 
Merovingian weapons, a Roman crown, helmets, iron- 
pots, etc. The remainder of the central portion of the floor 
is occupied by figures, chiefly on horse-back, in full armour. 
Complete coats of armour are also arranged on blocks along 
the lateral walls, most of them with escutcheons painted on 
the plinths ; the walls of the extremities are decorated 
with trophies formed of arms of all kinds of rich and costly 
execution; the shields especially will attract attention. The 
helmet marked No. 281, once belonged to Rajazet II., son of 
the conqueror of Constantinople. There are also other histo¬ 
rical relics: against the wall to the right on entering, we find 
No. 135, the armour worn by Henry, Duke of Guise, sur- 
named Le Balafre, killed at Blois in 1588 (the helmet alone 
weighs 10 lbs.) ; No. 134, belonged to the Duke of May- 
enne, chief of the League (1611); and No. 119, was worn by 
Frederic V, Elector Palatine and King of Bohemia (1632). 
No. 165, belonged to the Constable Anne de Montmorency 
11567), and No. 178 to Robert IV de la Marck, Marshal of 
France (1556). Among the equestrian figures, No. 162 was 
owned by the Bastard Antoine de Bourgogne, son of Philippe- 
le-Bon. Here also in a gilt frame, surmounted by an eagle, 
is the flag of the old Garde Imperialc. In the other galleries, 
which are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, small arms, ancient and 
modern, are arranged in racks, the most curious and costly 
objects being in glass presses. Some of the arms taken from 
the Moors in 1859 by Gen. de Martimprey, as also those 
taken in the Chinese war of I860, are placed here. Along the 
sides, next the windows, are rows of tables, presenting models of 
cannon, machines, &c. We may notice, in gallery No. 1, the 
inlaid carbines, cross-bows, and stirrups, such as Nos. 1416, 
1606, 1552 and 2380 ; in gallery No. 2, the rich fire-arms of 
the 16th-18th centuries; No. 3, the Roman sword blades, con¬ 
tained in glass stands, and in gallery No. 4, the halberts, fal- 

23 



354 FOURTEENTH WALK. 

chions and partizans, and the weapons of African and other 
savages. In a special room there is a collection of arms of 
the loth century, valued at 500,000 fr., and left to the 
Museum by the late Baron Desmazis. Strangers are ad¬ 
mitted on Thursdays and Sundays from 12 to'4. A military 
library of 0,000 volumes is attached to this museum, but is 
not public. 

Opposite the Place St. Thomas d’Aquin, at 31, rue St. Do¬ 
minique, is the noble mansion of the Due de Luynes. At 
No. 84, rue de Crenelle, are the new premises of the Societes 
Imperial's d’ Horticulture et d,’Agriculture { seep. 105). Flower 
and agricultural shows are held here twice a year. At No. 
57 in the rue de Grenelle is the 

Fontaine de Crenelle, one of the finest in Paris.—Bou- 
chardon executed the designs, figures, bas-reliefs, and some of 
the ornaments, ft was begun in 1739, and finished in 1745. 
The building is of a concave semi-elliptical form, 90 feet in 
length by 36 in elevation. In the centre is a pavilion, resting 
on a basement, with plain rustics, supporting two couples 
of Ionic columns crowned with a pediment. In front is a 
group in white marble, representing the City of Paris sitting 
on a prow, between the Seine and the Marne. Between the 
columns is the following inscription, by Cardinal Fleury :— 

Dum Ludovicus XV., populi amor et parens optimus, publics 
Iranquillitatis assertor, Gallici imperii limbus innocue propa- 
gatis; pace Germanos Russosque inter et Ottomanos feliciter 
conciliata ; gloriose simul et pacifice regnabat; fontem hunc ci- 
vium utilitati, urbisque ornamento, consecrarunt Proefectus et 
jEdiles, Anno Domini M.DGC.XXX.IX. 

The wings have Doric pilasters, between which are four sta¬ 
tues and as many bas-reliefs, representing the four seasons, 
besides two escutcheons containing the arms of the city. 

At No. 16, rue de Sevres, is the Arbaye aux Bois, now 
closed. Contiguous was a convent, bought in 1719 by the 
Religieuses de Notre Dame aux Bois. 

Facing this is the Maison du Noviciat des Religieuses Hos- 
pitalieres de St. Thomas de Villeneuve, 27, rue de Sevres, 
and further on, in the courtyard of No. 35, we find the 

Eglise de Jesus, belonging to the Jesuits. The grandeur 
of its Gothic interior, consisting of a nave and two aisles 
with clustered columns, is deserving of notice. 

From the Croix-Rouge, where six streets meet, the rue du 
Dragon leads to the rue des Saints Peres, a corruption of 
Cinq Peres , in allusion to the five Freres de la Charite, who 
first assumed the duties of the hospital of that name (see 
below). Here we find, at No. 39, the 


ST. GERMAIN PES PRES. 355 

Academic de M^decine, formerly at No. 12, rue de Poitiers, 
where the meetings of the royalist members of the Constituent 
Assembly of 1848 used to be held. Its entrance, erected in 
17 84, consists of a noble arch supported by two engaged 
Doric columns on each side. Above is a statue of Esculapius, 
and within, there is another of Baron Larrey (see p. 142). 
This building was formerly annexed to the 

IIopital de la Ciiarite, 45, rue Jacob.—Founded in 1013 , 
by Marie de Medicis, for the Freres de la Charite, who were 
all surgeons or apothecaries, besides ministering to the spiri¬ 
tual wants of the sick. The building has a handsome front. 
With a spacious Doric entrance and vestibule (see p. 14o). 
Strangers admitted on Sundays and Thursdays from 1 to 4. 

The rue Bonaparte, on the right, meets the Rue be Rennes, 
a new street commencing from the Western railway-terminus, 
and to be continued to the Quays. The extensive demoli¬ 
tions occasioned by this cutting have all but completely un¬ 
masked the venerable structure of 
Saint Germain des Pres.— This church is a monument of the 
highest interest to the antiquarian, it having been the abbey- 
clmrch of one of the largest and most ancient monastic establish¬ 
ments of Paris. Childebert I., son of Clovis, on the suggestion 
of St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, founded a monastery 
about 551, though the Pragmaticum, which is still preserved 
among the Archives of Che State, dates from 501. lie dedicated 
the church to the Holy Cross, St. Stephen, and St. Vincent; the 
relics of the latter saint were brought by him from Spain, and 
given to the monastery, together with the treasure which he had 
taken from Amalaric, at Toledo, and a piece of the true cross. 
This foundation was endowed with many estates, and among 
others with the fief of Issy, extending from the Petit Pont in 
Paris to Sevres. Throughout this domain the community pos¬ 
sessed full jurisdiction, which they retained till 1074 ; and the 
prison of the Abbayelong remained as a monument of their im¬ 
portance. The church, dedicated in 557, was celebrated for its 
decorations, and was called “ The Golden Basilica.” In 861, 
the Normans nearly destroyed the monastery, and burnt the 
church, of which only part of the lower walls of the western 
tower are supposed to remain. The tomb of Childebert was 
afterwards carefully restored by the monks. In 990, the 
Abbot Morardus, 2 6th in succession, commenced rebuilding 
the church, which was consecrated by Pope Alexander III., 
in 1163, under the abbot Hugues III. In 1653-6, the tomb of 
Childebert was placed in the middle of the church. The chapel 
of IheVirgin was begun about the middle of the 13thcentury, by 
Pierre de Montreuil, and was one of the most exquisite pieces 





356 FOURTEENTH WALE. 

of architecture of the middle ages. In 1369, the abbey was 
fortified against the English by Charles V.; and, in the 
time of Henry IV., it still resembled a fortress (1) encom¬ 
passed by a moat. To the west, where part of the 
Faubourg St. Germain now stands, was the Pre aux Clercs 
(see p. 34 8). From 1503, the abbots were appointed by 
the crown; and among other distinguished men who attained 
this honour was Casimir, King of Poland, who died in 1672. 
In 1644, this celebrated community was incorporated with 
the celebrated Benedictines of St. Maur. Mabillon, Mont- 
faucon, Achery, Ruinart, &cc., were all of this abbey. It 
was suppressed in 17 89, and the buildings became a salt¬ 
petre-manufactory. An explosion taking place in 1794, the 
refectory and library were destroyed, and the church much 
damaged. Under Charles X., the restoration of it was com¬ 
menced by M. Godde, and completed in 1836. The square 
buttressed tower with double-arched mullioned windows, 
which flanks the entrance, dates from 990, the time of 
the Abbot Morardus; it was formerly topped with a 
stone spire, which has been replaced by a wooden one of 
an octagonal form, with four smaller ones at the corners. 
There were two turrets besides, flanking the choir, but 
which were removed in 1820. The western porch is pointed; 
in the ogive is an old bas-relief representing the Last Supper, 
and over this the figure of Christ. The figures that once adorned 
the western front may be found in Montfaucon’s Antiquities. 

Interior. —The interior is cruciform, with a circular choir 
at the east end; the nave is flanked with plain aisles without 
chapels, except one in the right hand aisle, but the choir is 
surrounded by them. All this part is also of the tune of the 
Abbot Morardus ; the choir is the work of Abbot Hugucs III. 
All the capitals of the pillars forming the piers will be par¬ 
ticularly remarked for the devices of which they are com¬ 
posed ; many of those in the nave are restorations of the old 
ones, now magnificently gilt and decorated ; the ceiling is 
painted in cobalt, interspersed with stars, and the foliated 
capitals of the lofty engaged columns which front the piers are 
also gilt. The whole church is decorated with fresco-paint¬ 
ings by the late M. Flandrin, to whose memory a monument 
has been erected there. Over the arches of the choir we see 
the twelve Apostles in fresco, and around the apsis are the 
Angel, Lion, Ox, and Eagle, emblems of the Evangelists; over 
the central arch is the Lamb. The wall at the entrance of the choir 

(0 In May, 1854, one of the loopholed towers of the abbey 
was discovered at No. n, rue St. Benoit, transformed into the 
well--hole of a staircase. 


ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 357 

to the right is painted in three compartments; the tympan of 
the upper ogive representing the Abbot Morardus, three of his 
immediate successors, and King Robert. The lower ogive 
spaces are adorned with the figures of Fortitude, Justice, 
Chastity, and Truth; and the field below represents Christ 
bearing the Cross. A similar arrangement is in the opposite 
wall, where the upper ogive represents St. Droctovaeus and 
St. Germain on one side, and King Childehert and his Queen, 
Hudrogote, on the other, offering the church to St. Germain. The 
lower ogives display the figures of the other cardinal virtues, 
Faith, Hope, Charity, and Humility. The field below re¬ 
presents Christ making his entrance into Jerusalem. Figures 
of archangels adorn the ceiling of the cross, while the frieze 
of the nave is charged with a series of biblical subjects 
worthy of the distinguished artist to whom they are due (l). 
The stalls of the choir are profusely carved. The right hand 
aisle contains the Martyrdom of St. Vincent, by Cazes 
(17 84), and the afore-mentioned chapel, surmounted by a cu¬ 
pola and drum, the ceiling of which is boldly painted with the 
apotheosis of a saint. Over the confessional is a Mater Dolo¬ 
rosa, by Varcollier. The adjoining transept, which is the 
chapel of Ste. Marguerite, contains a handsome marble tomb 
of one of the Castellan family. In the first chapel of the 
choir there is a painting of the Archangel crushing the 
Dragon. In the same chapel is a tomb of James Duke of Doug¬ 
las, who died in 1645. His figure in marble is reclining on 
a sarcophagus. In the 2d chapel, black marble slabs 
mark the remains of Mabillon, Descartes, and Montfaucon. 

(l) The following are the subjects of these fine mural paint¬ 
ings, so arranged that above the spandrils of each arch there are 
two compartments, one relating to the Old Testament, the other 
to a parallel passage of the New. Beginning from the right on 
entering, the space over the first arch is provisionally closed. 
Over the second we see the Confusion of Tongues at Babel, and 
Jesus delivering the Keys to Peter. 3rd. Jonah delivered from 
the large fish, and The Resurrection. 4th. The Sacrifice of 
Isaac, and the Crucifixion. 5th. Joseph sold by his brothers, 
and the Kiss of Judas. Turning to the opposite side of the nave, 
and moving towards the entrance, we see over the first arch 
next to the transept Melchisedech offering the sacrifice of bread 
and wine, and blessing Abraham, and the Institution of the 
Lord’s Supper. 2 nd. The Egyptians drowned in the Red Sea, 
and the Baptism of Christ. 3rd. Balaam’s burnt-offering, and 
Ihe Adoration of the Magi. 4 th. Adam and Eve terrified at the 
Voice of the Lord, and the Birth of Jesus. 5th. Moses before the 
burning bush, arid the Annunciation. In the arched compart¬ 
ments above these paintings are various personages of the Old 
Testament, such as David and the Prophets, Moses, Judith, &c. 



358 FOURTEENTH WALK. 

Here there is an excellent picture by an unknown master, re¬ 
presenting the vision of St. Catherine of Siena, in which she 
saw the Holy Family, and shook the infant Saviour by the hand. 
The Lady Chapelis circular, and has two finely painted grisailles 
on canvas, the first attemptsof thelate Abel cle Pujol: the Adora¬ 
tion of the Magi and the Presentation in the Temple. Next is a 
Mater Dolorosa, in plaster, with four angels on brackets, kneel¬ 
ing. In the chapel of St. Vincent de Paule is the statue of that 
saint; in that of St. Paul is a monument to Boileau, whose 
heart was transferred here in 1819 from his tomb, which 
exists in the undercroft of the Sainte Chapelle (see p. 306). 
In the adjoining one is Joseph leading Christ, by Delarue, and 
a marble monument to another of the Douglas family, Earl of 
Douglas and Angus, who died in 1611. The following tran¬ 
sept contains the tomb of Casimir, King of Poland, who ab¬ 
dicated his crown in 1668, and died abbot of the monastery 
in 1672; the king is on his knees, offering up his crown to 
heaven, and in front of the tomb is a fine bas-relief of one of 
his battles. Here is also a painting of Simeon kissing the 
Saviour, probably by a pupil of Rubens. The paint¬ 
ings in the left aisle of the nave are : the Death of Sap- 
phira, by Leclerc (i7 18); St. Germain distributing the presents 
of Childebert to the poor, by Steuben; the Entrance of Christ 
into Jerusalem; the Baptism of the Eunuch, by Berlin (1718); 
and the Raising of Lazarus, by Verdier (1677). The pulpit, 
of white marble, is of elegant design; it is flanked by two 
statues in bronze, by Jacquot, one allegorical of the Mosaic 
law, the other of Christianity. The front is adorned with bas- 
reliefs in bronze, the central one representing the Sermon on 
the Mount. For a more complete history of the abbey, see 
the History of Paris. (1) The church is 200 feet in length, 
65 feet in breadth, and 60 feet in height. 

Turning to the left, on leaving this most interesting church, 
the rue Bonaparte will lead the visitor to the rue Ste. Mar¬ 
guerite, now rue Gozlin, but lately the site of the Abbaye (see 
p. 7 8), which stood in front of the rue de FEcole de Medecine. 

The rue de l’Echaudee leads to the rue de Seine ; and the 
small Passage du Pont Neuf, one of the first established in 
Paris, to the rue Guenegaud, and the Ouai Conti, now con¬ 
siderably widened. The stranger will be reminded by these 
names that he is on a spot immortalised by Sterne. 

No. 5 on this quay bears an inscription stating that Na¬ 
poleon I., then an officer of artillery, on leaving Brienne, 
lived in that house on the 5th story. On this quay is the 

(t) History of Paris, 3 vols. svo. There is also a history of 
the abbey by Bouillard, one of (lie Benedictines of the society. 



HOTEL DES MONNAIES. . 359 

Hotel des Monnaies. —A mint existed in Paris under the 
second race of kings, in the royal palace of the lie de la Cite. 
It was afterwards established in the rue de la Monnaie, and 
removed in 177 5 to the present building, erected on the site of 
the Hotel de Conti, after the designs of Antoine. The principal 
front is 360 feet in length, and 7 8 high. It has three stories. 
In the centre a projecting mass with five arcades on the ground 
floor supports six Ionic columns, crowned with an entabla¬ 
ture and an attic, ornamented with festoons and six statues, 
of Law, Prudence, Power, Trade, Abundance, and Peace. 
The front towards the rue Guenegaud is 34 8 feet in length. 
Two pavilions rise at its extremities, and a third in the centre 
surmounted by a square cupola. On the attic stand four 
statues, representing Fire, Air, Earth, and Water, with slabs 
bearing appropriate distiches. The intermediate buildings 
have only two stories. The ground plan includes eight courts, 
of which the central one is the most spacious. It has two 
pavilions facing each other, each bearing a pediment; the 
southern one has four Doric pillars, in front of which are busts 
of Henry II., Louis XIII., Louis XIV., and Louis XV. The 
central arcade of the principal front leads into a vestibule, 
adorned with 24 fluted Doric columns. On the right is 
an Ionic staircase, with a bust of Antoine, the architect. 
We next enter a magnificent saloon, called the Musee 
Monetaire, adorned with 20 Corinthian columns in stucco, 
supporting a gallery. On the mantel-piece is a bust of 
the present Empress. This room contains an immense 
collection of the coins of France and other countries, chro¬ 
nologically classified, besides the medals struck on various 
public occasions, such as marriages, victories, etc. They 
are contained in 5 rows of stands on each side, besides 
others in the embrasures of the windows. The stands to the 
left on entering contain medals only ; those to the right, 
coins. The seriesof the former commences at the stand in the 
embrasure of the first window to the left, proceeds regularly 
to the third, thence to the stand immediately opposite, and 
ends with that nearest to the entrance. The oldest authentic 
medal here is one of Charlemagne, an invaluable relic of ex¬ 
cellent execution; the earliest medal of which the original die 
exists is one of Charles VII. (1461). Medals of Boccaccio, 
Louis XII., Henry VIII., Francis L, Loyola. Mary Queen of 
Scots, Sixtus V., Cardinal Richelieu (a superb medal by Varin, 
1630, for which his life was spared). Cardinal Mazarin, &c., 
will successively meet the visitor’s eye, until, gradually des¬ 
cending to the present period, lie will find medals commemo¬ 
rating all the stirring events of the last few years: the pro- 





360 FOURTEENTH WALK. 

clamation of the republic of 1848 ; the days of June, Cavaig- 
nac’s administration; the visit of the French National Guards 
to London in October 1848 ; the 2d of December 1831, the 
Proclamation of the Empire ; the visit of the Queen of Eng¬ 
land in August 1855 ; the taking of Bomarsund and of Se¬ 
bastopol, the marriage of Prince Napoleon with Princess Clo- 
tilde, &c., besides an immense number of medals with por¬ 
traits of the princes or leading personages of all countries, such 
as Queen Isabella of Spain, Victor Emmanuel of Italy, Narvaez, 
Kossuth, etc. The medals struck in commemoration of the Great 
Exhibition are all in the stands of the right-hand windows, toge¬ 
ther with a collection of French copper money before the re-coin¬ 
age ; smaller stands before the piers of the windows contain 
private medals or counters (1), and Japanese, East Indian, 
and Chinese coins ; the oldest of the latter is dated 1700 years 
before Christ. We now come to the five rows of stands to 
the right on entering, which contain the coins. Many of 
the places are now empty, owing to the transfer of upwards 
of 6000 coins to the Imperial Library ; nevertheless, many 
of them have been replaced by duplicates. The most interest¬ 
ing of the English coins is a silver penny of William the Con¬ 
queror (1066); of the Spanish, one of King Tuica (date 638.) 
There are, besides the African cowrie, Mexican, Bolivian, Greek, 
Turkish money, etc. The fifth row from the entrance contains 
the whole series of French coins, fromthetime of the Gaulsdown 
to the present time. Four large glass presses flanking the en¬ 
trance and the chimney-piece opposite contain an interesting 
collection of standard weights and measures, implements for 
engraving, stamping, etc., and chemical substances used 
for the purposes of fining. In adjoining rooms are several 
models of the furnaces, instruments, &.C., used in coining and 
assaying money, and other stands containing a numismatic 
gallery of the Kings of France, of modern workmanship. The 
last room of this series is called the Salle Napoleon; here 
are arranged nearly all the dies of medals struck under the 
Consulate and the Empire; here is also a splendid colossal 
marble bust of Napoleon I., executed forFoucheby Canova in 
1806, a model in bronze of the mask taken from the Emperor’s 
face at St. Helena 20 hours after his death, and a bust of the 
present Emperor, by Barre; a model of the pillar of the 
Place Vendome in bronze, peculiarly interesting, as display¬ 
ing the statue of Napoleon which adorned the column before 

(1) The coinage of medals and counters is a privilege of the 
mint of Paris. The net profit under this head amounts to about 
2 G,ooo fr. Upwards of 100,000 medals and counters were coined 
last year, besides 212,000 medals of saints. 


HOTEL DES MONNAIES. 361 

the Restoration, in his imperial robes. It was executed by 
Brenet, in the proportion of 1 to 24, and cost 6000 fr. A 
glass case contains a representation in wax of the bas-reliefs 
with which its shaft is encircled. On a table, under a glass case, 
is a closed casket, containing a collection of all the coins struck 
with the effigy of Napoleon I. in the kingdom of Italy, given 
to the Museeby the present Emperor when he was President. 
Returning to the first hall, a door opposite the entrance to the 
right leads to the staircase of the Gallery. Here, before as¬ 
cending, we may remark the Chinese coins arranged in a glass 
stand. In the first room above, we find a series of seals of 
State, from King Dagobert down to the second Republic ; also 
the seals of the five great vassals or feoffees of the Crown. 
The gallery of the large saloon contains private dies, among 
which we find the heads of Madame de Genlis, Lord Byron, 
and many other distinguished personages ; and in the follow¬ 
ing galleries aud rooms are the dies of historical medals, with 
the busts of Diane de Poitiers, Henry IV., Marie Thercse of 
Austria, Louis XIV., etc. In the last room, a glass stand con¬ 
tains prize medals, another opposite, Masonic counters, and 
the presses contain dies of the Restoration, the time of Louis 
Philippe, and the present reign. One of the presses is partly 
filled with specimens of mineralogy, and metals in their re¬ 
fined state. A very copious and learned catalogue is published 
of the whole, with detailed descriptions of the medals, price only 
3 francs. Medals of which the dies are retained are sold to visitors 
for the benefit of the establishment at a trifling cost; but of the 
coins ofwhich only one specimen exists, orof which the dies arc 
lost, casts exactly resembling the originals are exhibited in the 
cases of the museum, the originalsbeingcarefullypreservedbut 
not shown to the public. In this Hotel are performed all the ope¬ 
rations of coining, besides the assaying and stamping of the gold 
and silver for jewellers, &c., who are obliged by law to have 
every article stamped before it can be sold. It is also the 
seat of the general administration of the coinage of the State. 

The Laboratory of the Mint is entered from the court to 
the left. In the first room are two steam-engines of 32 horse¬ 
power, by which all the machinery of the establishment is 
worked. A door to the left leads hence to the furnace-room, 
with six furnaces containing from 800 to 1200 kilogrammes of 
silver each. The bars cast here in iron moulds are afterwards 
taken to the grand atelier, a lofty hall, where 16 rollers are 
in constant motion, flattening the bars to the required thick¬ 
ness, according to the coin they are intended for. After this 
process, the bars, which have acquired greater length and 
compactness by successive rolling, are taken to another furnace- 





FOURTEENTH WALK. 


362 

room adjoining to the first, where they are exposed to a red 
heat, to render them more malleable. Thence they pass into 
the hands of the cutters, who are accommodated in a gallery 
running all round the top of the grand atelier. Here round 
pieces of the required size are cut out of the bars by machinery, 
and what remains of the bars is taken back to the melting- 
furnaces. The pieces are now weighed; if too light, they are 
sent down to be melted; if too heavy, they are reduced by 
a sort of plane. This machine is so constructed as to throw 
aside the piece as soon as it has undergone the process of plan¬ 
ing, so that it only requires feeding. When the pieces prove 
of the standard weight, they are taken to a room communicat¬ 
ing with the gallery, where, after being exposed to a red 
heat, they are cleansed in a mixture of water and sulphuric 
acid. They are now reduced to the exact diameter required, 
by the action of a machine which at the same time gives a 
slight elevation to the rim. The floors of the grand atelier 
and of the gallery are latticed, so that a piece falling down 
cannot roll away or stick to the shoes of a person treading 
upon it. Gold is worked in another room adjoining the engine- 
room ; visitors are not allowed to enter, on account of the 
small particles of gold with which the floor is strewed, and 
which are carefully swept up; but the process is the same as 
that described above. The coining-machines are in a hall op¬ 
posite the principal entrance in the first court. There are 
eleven of these machines, viz. one for gold, 6 for five-franc 
pieces, 2 for two-franc pieces, and 2 for small coin. When 
they are all worked at once, they produce 1,500,000 fr. per day. 
They are the invention of M. Thonnelier, and well deserve 
inspection. Each strikes off 70 pieces per minute (see p. 14). 

The museum is open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays 
from 12 to 3. To visit the laboratory and ateliers, visible on 
Tuesdays and Fridays from 12 to 3, apply for a special ticket 
to M. le President de la Commission d.es Monnaies ct 
Medailles, Hdtel des Monnaies. To the west stands 

The Palais pe l’Institut.— This edifice, originally built 
under the provisions of Cardinal Mazarin’s will, for the CoU 
lege des Quatre Nations, to which natives of Roussillon, 
Pignerol, Alsace, and Flanders, were alone admissible, 
was commenced in loci, after the designs of Levari, and 
now contains two distinct establishments, the Bibliothcque 
Mazarine, and the Institut de France. The front forms the 
concave segment of a circle, terminated at the extremities by 
projecting pavilions, with open arcades in the basements. In 
the centre is the front of the church (now the hall where the 
public meetings are held), composed of four Corinthian co* 


363 


BIBLIOTHEQUE MAZARINE. 

lunins surmounted by a pediment. Above the front rises an 
attic, surmounted by a dome. The first court is octagonal and 
has two Corinthian pavilions. r Ihe eastern one contains the 
Bibliotheque Mazarine. — Cardinal Mazarin possessed a 
library, formed by the celebrated Gabriel Naude, who col¬ 
lected the most scarce and curious books in France and foreign 
countries. It consisted of 40,000 volumes, which, in 1652, 
were sold by a decree of the Parlement de Paris. To repair 
this loss, Naude, aided by Lapoterie, bought up for the Cardinal 
a great number of the works which had fallen into the hands of 
booksellers and private individuals. This second library Maza¬ 
rin bequeathed to his College, together with 2,000,000 livres 
for the building, and a yearly revenue of 45,000 livres. The 
library was subsequently enriched with those of Descordes, 
and of Naude, the latter of whom died in 1655, and thus the 
present Bibliotheque Mazarine was formed. The manuscripts 
were removed to the rojml library, but others have since been 
bought. Thecoliection now amounts to about 120,000 printed 
volumes, and 50,000 manuscripts. The library consists of an 
octagonal ante-room, and a large gallery with two branches 
turning at right angles, 190 feet by 24. The book-cases are 
richly carved, and fronted with Corinthian columns support¬ 
ing a gallery. The principal room, where students are accom- 
! modated, occupies the site of the celebrated Tour de Nesle. (1) 
It is adorned with many good marble and bronze busts, some 
of which are antique. The visitor will remark those of 
Mazarin and Racine, and the inkstand of the great Conde. It 
possesses also a very fine terrestrial globe of copper, executed 
for the Dauphin by the brothers Bergwin, under the direction 
of Louis XVI.; the latter is evon said to have worked at it 
himself. It now bears the impression of a bullet with which 
it was struck from the Louvre, defended by the Swiss guards, 
during the revolution of 1830. There is also a curious col¬ 
lection of models of Pelasgic monuments of ancient Greece, 
comprising the Cyclopean walls of Mycene, See. Specimens of 
old printing and binding are also exhibited in a glass stand, 
executed by the late M. Petit Radel. The library is open to 
the public daily, except Sundays and festivals, from 10 to 3. 

The Instilut. —The western pavilion in the first court leads 
to the Grand Hall, for the public sittings of this celebrated 
body. The hall is fitted up with benches forming a semi- 
i circle, in front of which are the seats and bureaux of the presi¬ 
dent, secretaries, &c. It is adorned with marble statues of 
Bossuet, Descartes, Fenelon, and Sully. The second court 

(l) In i 8i 2 and mo, parts of the foundations of the Tour do 
Nesle were discovered. 




364 FOURTEENTH WALK. 

contains the private buildings pertaining to the Institut. A 
door to the left gives access to a double staircase leading to 
the secretaries’ office on the first floor, and to the library and 
hall for the weekly sittings, on the second. The Bibliotheque 
de rinstitut, to which admission is only obtained through 
introduction by a member, contains about 60,000 volumes, 
including a large number of valuable oriental works, com¬ 
plete series of the transactions of nearly all the learned societies 
of the world, and numerous works on history and archaeology. 
The library is adorned with the celebrated marble statue of 
Voltaire, by Pigalle. A vestibule, containing the busts of 
some of the most distinguished members of the Institute in 
former days, separates the library from the Salle des Seances, 
which is preceded by a waiting-room, of Ionic design. The 
president’s chair occupies the centre of the Salle, which is 
lit by five windows, and adorned with marble statues of 
Racine, Corneille, Moliere, La Fontaine, Puget, and Poussin, 
in niches, and busts of Gros, Cuvier, Visconti, and La Place, 
on brackets. On the walls are the portraits of David, Buffon, 
Montesquieu, Gretry, Coulomb, d’Alembert, J. Goujon, La¬ 
voisier, Lagrange, Audran, Voltaire, Turgot, Fenelon, Boileau, 
Ph. Delorme, Barthelemy, Rousseau, and Fermat. The frieze 
below these portraits bears the names of poets and other ce¬ 
lebrated men. Continuous tables, with chairs for the mem¬ 
bers, occupy the floor on both sides of the president’s chair, 
opposite which there stands another table for strangers, who have 
previously inscribed their names at the secretaries’ office, for 
the purpose of reading extracts from original and unpublished 
essays on various subjects. Along the walls there are benches 
for the public, those in the centre being reserved for reporters. 
For information respecting the Institute, its Academies, and the 
days of their meetings, see p. 89. On public occasions the 
members of the Institute wear a costume of black, embroi¬ 
dered with olive leaves in green silk. To obtain tickets of 
admission to the annual meetings apply at the office of the 
Secretary of the Institute, at least one month beforehand. 
The tickets are for one person. Opposite is the 

Pont des Arts. —This bridge, for foot-passengers only, 
takes its name from the Louvre, once called Palais des Arts. 
It is composed of 8 arches of wrought iron, with a wooden 
platform. Each of the first 7 arches is 56 feet, the 8th 84, 
the length of the bridge is 488, and the breadth 30. It was 
finished, in 1804, at a cost of 900,000fr. 

The stranger now enters the Quai Malaqunis, called in 1631 
after Queen Marguerite, the first consort of Henry IV., the 
palace of that princess being then at the corner of the rue de 




ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. 365 

Seine. Here the visitorwill be struck with a large new building 

I of monumental design, containing the exhibition rooms of the 
Palais and Ccole des Beaux Arts. —This school, reorga¬ 
nised by an Imperial decree of Nov. 13th, 1803, is now ad¬ 
ministered by a Director appointed for five years, and a Su- 
, perior Council of Instruction composed of the Superintendent 
■ of Fine Arts, two painters, two sculptors, two architects, one 
i engraver, and five other members. Eight professors respec- 
, tively teach the history of art and esthetics, anatomy, per¬ 
il spective, mathematics, the natural sciences, practical archi- 
[ tecture, and archaeology. There are three class-rooms for 
i painting, three for sculpture, three for architecture, one for 
, plate-engraving, and one for engraving medals and precious 
i stones, all superintended by eleven professors. Pupils are 
i admitted between the ages of 15 and 25. An annual compe- 
[ lition takes place for the Grand Prix de Rome, the successful 
) candidates, who need not be pupils of the school, but must be 
, French subjects, and not older than 25, being sent to Rome 
, and maintained there at the expense of the Government for 
. four years (engravers only for three). They are bound to 
, stay at Rome two years ; the rest of the time they may 
j employ in travelling for their instruction. Only one prize is 
. awarded for each section ; and an exhibition of the works 
. of the students here, as well as of those sent by the stu- 
( dents at Rome, takes place every year in September. (See 
5 page 100.) This establishment was first called Musee des 
f Monuments Frangais, being chiefly composed of monuments 
1 of the middle ages, saved by M. Alexandre Lenoir from the fury 
i of the first revolution. Most of these were restored to the 
churches by the Restoration, when the present building was 
commenced in 1820 by M. Duban, at a cost of 3,515,907fr. 
It now contains many valuable monuments of ancient and 
. modern art, and has lately received a considerable collection 
[ of plaster casts of statues and bas-reliefs discovered in Greece 
by M. Charles Lenormant. 

The new building above alluded to contains, as the inscrip¬ 
tion on its front denotes, the exhibition rooms of the Ecole. 
Externally its design is elegant. Marble slabs in the wall bear 
the words Peinture, Sculpture , Architecture. The entrance 
hall is specially set apart for the works sent by the students 
at Rome. From this, a double-branched staircase, fronted by 
two marble Corinthian columns, leads to the exhibition room 
of the prize works executed by the pupils in Paris. It 
occupies the whole length of the building. Its extremities 
are curved, and the walls are adorned with the names of the 
great artists of ancient and modern times. The first landing- 






3GG FOURTEENTH WALK. 

place in front of the entrance ushers us into the great hall, a 
splendid saloon rising to the roof of the edifice, and lighted by 
a spacious skylight, suppi rted by two inclined planes, 
which are decorated with copies from the Vatican, by Sig- 
alon and Boucotran, of the twelve large frescoes severally 
representing the Persian, Cumean, Erythraean, Libyan, and 
Delphic Sibyls, and the prophets Daniel, Isaiah, Zachariah, 
Jonah, Joel, Ezekiel, and Jeremiah. Fronting the semicular 
recess at the further end of the room, a balcony opens into 
the latter from the landing-place of the first floor, whence 
a good view may be obtained of the whole. 

In the rue Bonaparte we find the principal entrance to the 
Palais des Beaux Arts, which we will now describe. 

Courts .—There are two courts in front of the palace, se¬ 
parated by a dwarf wall and open iron-work. The first is 
entered through a gateway adorned with busts of Poussin and 
Pujet. The court is flanked by two buildings of Ionic design ; 
the northern one contains the offices of the Director and two 
amphitheatres for students • the southern one, which masks 
part of the ancient buildings of the convent cles Petits Au¬ 
gustins, displays in its intercolumniations the sculptured or¬ 
naments of a door, and other interesting fragments of the 
Iidtel de la Tremouille, or Maison de la Couronne d'Or , a 
splendid specimen of the architecture of the 14th century, and 
purchased in 1363 by the Duke of Orleans, brother to King 
John. On the same wall there is a copy in mosaic of 
Raphael’s picture of God blessing the World, executed by 
MM. Baize. Adjoining the porter’s lodge is the 

Sixtine Chapel. —The front is formed of the portal of the 
Chateau d’Anet, built in 1548 for Diana of Poitiers, by 
Henry II. It has three ranges of coupled columns of the Do¬ 
ric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, and is adorned with bas-re¬ 
liefs and statues, the finest of which is a Cupid in the act of 
stringing his bow. Over the top arch is this inscription : 

Braesneo hsec statuit pergrata Diana marito 

Utdiulurna sui sint monumenta viri. 

The interior consists of a single nave, with an arched roof 
strengthened with elegant tie-beams and king-posts. The 
wainscoting which covers the walls at the entrance is the 
same that adorned the chateau d’Anet. A screen, consisting 
of an entablature supported by four columns of red marble, and 
pilasters of the Corinthian order, separates the entrance from the 
nave. At the end is a splendid copy of Michael Angelo’s Last 
Judgment, by Sigalon, on canvas, occupying the whole wall. Ir. 
a side chapel to the left, are casts of the Moses of Michael An- 






ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. 367 

gelo, and two tombs, by the same, one of which is the Tomb 
of the Medici; and also a fine cast of the bronze gates, by 
Ghiberti, of the Baptistery at Florence. The nave is now 
used as a repository for plaster casts. The 12 pendentives here 
are copies from Michael Angelo’s frescos in the Sixtine Chapel 
at Rome. 

Returning to the court, the visitor will observe in the 
centre a Corinthian column of red marble, on the top of 
which is .the figure of an angel in bronze, one of several 
saved from a group, pillaged by the mob from the tomb 
of Cardinal Mazarin. Immediately behind it is the beau¬ 
tiful front of a chateau erected at Gaillon in 1500 by 
Cardinal d’Amboise, and transported thence by M. Le¬ 
noir. Its western surface is studded with brackets sup¬ 
porting antique statues, and medallions. The second court 
is semi-elliptical, and fronted by the palace, 240 feet in length 
by GO in height, consisting of two lateral pavilions connected 
by a central Corinthian facade, pierced with 11 arched win¬ 
dows, and surmounted by an attic. The pavilions have plain 
Corinthian pilasters with square-headed niches. In front, on 
either side of the entrance, are pedestals with ten marble sta¬ 
tues, the work of as many French artists studying at Rome. 
The court is flanked by two arched screens, the one to the 
left florid Saxon, with three arches; the opposite one 
with four; the two central ones supported by a colossal pen¬ 
dant keystone, the whole in the style of the time of Francis I. 
Beyond this, in a garden, is a fountain, surmounted by four 
figures sculptured by Paolo Poncio. Underneath is an escut¬ 
cheon by Jean Goujon, and two seated figures by Germain 
Pilon. On the walls of the court, forming the curves, are spe¬ 
cimens of old architectural and sculptural fragments, of which 
the following merit attention : a bas-relief of f440 ; marble 
medallions with the heads of Titus, Vespasian, Claudius, and 
Galba; two antique lions, and a shield of metal walled in, 
and embossed with mythological subjects. Opposite the en¬ 
trance to the palace are two Discoboli, copied in marble from 
the antique. In the court is a curious monolith basin of the 
[ 13 th century, brought from the Ahbey of St. Denis, 12 feet 
, in diameter, and ornamented with quaint heads of Ceres. 
3acchus, Pan, Neptune, Avarice, and various animals. 

• Interior .—In the spacious Corinthian vestibule are stair¬ 
cases right and left leading to the upper stories. Next is 
l rectangular court, where the visitor will read in gilt letters : 

Inceptum a Ludovico XVIII. 

.udovicus Philippus peregit monumentum anno MDCCCXXXVIII. 
Jnderncath are medallions with the portraits of Leo X. and 




368 


Fourteenth walk. 


Francis I., the restorers of the arts; and facing them are corre* 
sponding likenesses of Pericles and Augustus. Round the walls 
are engraved the names of famous artists of all countries, such as 
Michael Angelo, Inigo Jones, See. On the walls to the right and 
left are fragments of antique tomhs, &c., also a curious bas- 
relief, representing a sacrifice. There are also statues of Cupid 
and Psyche, by Cavelier; the Venus Pudica, by Vilain ; and, 
in the centre. Mars in repose, by Godde. On the, opposite 
side is the entrance to what is properly the Ecole des 
Beaux-Arts. The galleries on the ground floor contain 
casts and copies of architecture from the antique, separated 
into three divisions; one for Grecian, the second for Roman; 
and the third for the arts of Europe in general during the 
middle ages. The amphitheatre for the distribution of 
prizes, &c., on the western side of the inner court, is semi¬ 
circular, and, besides richly gilt compartments in the cupola, 
contains one of the finest productions of modern art, by Dela- 
roche, representing groups of the most celebrated artists of 
every age and country, assembled and presided by Zeuxis, 
Phidias, and Apelles, for the purpose of awarding prizes to 
successful competitors. It contains 7 5 figures, of which 70 
are those of artists. One of the female figures, arrayed in a 
green mantle, is the portrait of the gifted author’s wife. (1) 
From the ample amphitheatre the visitor is conducted to the 
Salle Louis XIV, containing the first part of a series of por¬ 
traits of the most eminent members of the Academy, amongst 
whom are Vanloo, Servandoni, Lemoine, &c. Here also we 
see part of a remarkable collection of models of roofing, and 
also of Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman art, executed in cork 
or plaster in the proportion of 1 to 100. The rest of the 
collection is not visible at present. The two angels on the 
chimney-piece are by Germain Pilon. A gallery, filled with 
busts, leads hence to the Salle du Conseil, where the series 
of portraits is continued; it contains besides 8 chandeliers of 
wood, carved and gilt, once the property of the old church (now 
demolished) of Ste. Genevieve; also two candelabra modelled 
upon originals found at Pompeii, and marble busts of academi¬ 
cians. Passing through a corridor, painted with copies of 
arabesques from the Vatican, we enter the Gallery of Prizes, 
divided into three parts by two partitions with Doric pilasters, 
and lit by seven arched windows. The walls are adorned with 
the pictures that have gained the grand prizes. Here may be 




(I) He is said to have occupied three years and a half in exe¬ 
cuting this work, and to have received so,ooo fr. for it. It was 
considerably injured by a fire which broke out in the amphithea¬ 
tre in 1 855, but has since been successfully restored. 


t! 


' 





£C0LE DES FONTS ET CHAESSfES. 309 

seen the prize-works of the most eminent artists, such as Fra¬ 
gonard, David, Ingres, Heim, Hesse, Pujol, &c. The collec¬ 
tion begins with a painting by Natoire, of the year 1721. 
The Library , a room lit by 11 windows, is not shown to 
visitors. Admission on application at the porter’s, from 10 
to 4. A fee is expected. 

In the rue des Marais, not far from this palace, No. 21,. 
is the house where Racine died, in 1699, and Adrienne 
Lecouvreur, in 1730. At No. 24, rue des Saints Peres, is the 
ficoLE des Ponts et Ciiaussees, established in 1747, and 
enlarged in 17 84. It possesses a rich collection of plans,, 
maps, and models, relative to civil engineering, as also a good: 
library. The present building, consisting of a Doric entrance' 
between two lateral pavilions, dates from 1845. Strangers; 
are not generally admitted, but a special order may, though! 
with difficulty, be obtained for the purpose, on applying by 
letter, post-paid, to M. le Secretaire du Conseil General da' 
VEcole des Ponts et Chaussees, at the School (see p. 98). 

The stranger, entering the Quai Voltaire, will find the 
Pont du Carrousel, or des Saints Peres, a. most elegant 
bridge of three iron arches, of 47 metres span, resting on stone- 
piers. It was built by M. Polonceau, in 1834... The arches, 
consisting of five ribs between each couple off piers, connected 
with the upper bars by decreasing circular hoops, are formed of.’ 
hollow pieces containing wood and pitch. It cost 1,030,000 fr.. 
Its extremities are adorned with four seated statues of stone on; 
pedestals, by Petitot, representing, on the side towards the- 

I Tuileries, Industry and Abundance; on the other, the Seine* 
and Paris. 

At No. 1, rue de Beaune, on this quay, is the hotel in* 
which Voltaire resided for some time previous to his death,, 
and where he died. His nephew, M. de Villette, kept his; 
apartment closed afterwards, as did also Mme. de Montmo¬ 
rency, the next proprietor of the house, so that it remained 
unopened for forty-seven years. On this quay are numerous 
shops of dealers in prints, articles of vertu, and second¬ 
hand books. 

— 

FIFTEENTH ’WALE. 

This comprises the 6th and 14th arrondissements. The 
Marche St. Germain, built in the year 1811, by Blondel',. 
on the spot where the Foire St. Germain used to be held, 
is a parallelogram, 27 6 feet in length, by 225 in breadth.. 
It contains nearly four hundred stalls. 


24 





370 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

Not far from this is the church of 

St. Sulpice, —a splendid structure, designed by Levau, and 
he^un in 1655, when the first stone was laid by Anne of Aus¬ 
tria, but not finished until 1742, when funds were raised by 
the rector, Languet de Gergy, for the purpose, by means of 
a lottery. Servandoni finished the magnificent front in 1745 ; 
the two" steeples were raised by Maclauren, in 1749 ; the nor¬ 
thern one was altered and finished by Chalgrin,in 1777. 

Exterior .—The portico is composed of a double range of 
Doric columns, 40 feet in height, and is approached by ailight 
of steps which are intersected by the plinths of each couple. 
It supports a gallery and colonnade of the Ionic order, front¬ 
ing an arched gallery, with columns 38 feet in height; above 
was a pediment, destroyed by lightning in 1779, and now 
replaced by a balustrade. Under the portico are three en¬ 
trances, with niches between, and seven alti-rilievi above, 
illustrative of the cardinal virtues. The principal entrance 
is flanked with statues of Sts. Peter and Paul, by Emile 
Thomas. The ceiling is in compartments, exquisitely sculp¬ 
tured. The summit of the northern tower is 210 feet high. 
The towers consist ol four stories each, but are not perfectly 
symmetrical. The southern one, distinguished by two 
rows of columns of the Doric and Ionic orders, is ornamented 
with statues of St. John and St. Joseph; that of the north 
presents the Composite and Corinthian orders, with statues of 
St. Peter and St. Paul. It has three bells, of 12,500, 8,500, 
and 1,800 lbs. respectively. The back of the church is ellip¬ 
tical, with an overhanging semicircular turret; slender turrets, 
containing winding stairs, flank the body of the choir. The 
plan of the building is cruciform; its total length 432, its 
breadth 174, and its height 99 feet. 

Interior .—Aisles surround both nave and choir, and cha¬ 
pels correspond to each arcade. The pilasters are Corinthian ; 
the vaulted roof of the choir is elaborately ornamented with 
scroll-work. At the entrance of the nave are two shells of the 
largest tridachna gigas known, resting upon curious rock- 
work in marble, executed by Pigalle; they were given to 
Francis I. by the Republic of Venice. The pulpit is orna¬ 
mented with figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The organ- 
gallery rests on twelve Composite columns. The organ, by 
Clicquot, is richly carved, presenting seventeen figures playing 
on musical instruments or supporting cornucopia?, and is the 
finest in exterior of any in Paris. The principal figure 
is King David. On the pavement of the transept is a 
meridian line traced by Lcmonnier in 1743, and continued 
along an obelisk of white marble, in the northern transept. 


ST. SULPICE. 


371 


'll.trays of the sun, passing through an aperture in a metal 
plate in the window of the southern transect, form upon 
the pavement a luminous circle, about 10 y % inches in dia¬ 
meter, which moves across the line, and at noon is bisected 
by it. The ceiling of the cross contains four good paint¬ 
ings of saints in medallions; and underneath, at the 
entrance of the choir, stands the high, altar, decorated with 
a profusion of splendidly-gilt ornaments, and separated from 
the nave by a balustrade of bronze and marble. It has a 
bas-relief in bronze: Christ preaching in the Temple, the 
work of M. Choiselin. The candelabra are of exquisite 
workmanship. The following is a description of the chapels, 
beginning from the right on entering.—1st chapel, painted by 
Delacroix: In the cupola: the Archangel crushing the Evil 
One; on the walls, Balthazar driven from the temple by 
angels ; Jacob wrestling with the Angel.—2d, painted in 
fresco by Heim, with the Consolation in Death, the Efficacy of 
prayers for the Dead, and the Father, Son, and Virgin Mary, 
in the ceiling.—3d. St. Roch. praying for the cessation of the 
pestilence; his Death, his Apotheosis, on the ceiling In the 
spandrils of the arches are the personifications of the cities of 
Rome, Piacenza, Cesena, and Acquapendente, all admirable 
frescoes, by Abel do Pujols—4th, painted in fresco by Vinchon, 
with passages of the life of St. Maurice. In the ceiling are- 
angels bearing the crowns of martyrdom, and in the pendent 
lives, figures of Religion.., Fortitude, Hope, and Charity. Oin 
the altar is a marble statue of St. Maurice.—5th. A marble- 
monument to Languet ck Gcrgy. The prelate is seen kneeling; 
on a sarcophagus, whilst an angel chases death from his side.. 
The stained glass in the window of this chapel represents the- 
Eucharist. In the transept: St. Gregory and the miraculous- 
rag. (i) Reyond the transept is, 6th. The sacristy, fitted 
mo with richly-carved wainscoting.—7th. St. Denis preach¬ 
ing, and his martyrdom, by Jobbe-Duval.—8th and 9th.. 
(provisionally closed.)—loth. The Virgin learning to read; 
SI. Peter healing the lame man, by Palliere.—11th. The 
Lady Chapel, behind the choir, which is entirely en¬ 
crusted with marble and adorned with the most gorgeous- 
sculpture and gilding. The altar is Corinthian; the marble- 
statue of the Virgin with the Infant, the work of Pigalle, stands 
in* a recess lighted from above. The chapel has a double dome,. 


(0 Ambassadors having been sent, 1o him with a request to* 
seud their master some relic, he gave them an old rag. The- 
ambassadors looking rather blank at this odd present, he slit 
the ra fT with a knife, when lo, drops of blood issued from the¬ 
rein °The ambassadors, of course, went away quote delighted 




372 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

the upper one painted in fresco by Lemoine, representing the 
Ascension of Christ. On the walls are four paintings, the An¬ 
nunciation, Visitation, Birth of the Saviour, and Presentation in 
the Temple, by Vanloo.—12th. St. Louis praying, by Drolling; 
St. Fiacre refusing the crown of Scotland, by Dejuinne.—13th. 
(provisionally closed.)—14th. St. Charles Borromeo relieving 
the plague-stricken at Milan, by Granger; the Marriage of the 
Virgin, by A. Pereda (1640).—15th. St. John the Evangelist 
carried in triumph by his followers, and his martyrdom, by 
Glaize.—16th. The baptismal chapel. In the left transept 
we see Jesus with the woman of Samaria; the death of Sap- 
phira, by Picot ; Joseph conducting Christ, by Remond; 
and Jesus raising Jairus’s daughter. The 17th chapel has some 
rich carving, by Bran.—18th. St. Vincent de Paule ha¬ 
ranguing the sisters of Charity in favour of foundlings; 
the same assisting Louis XIII. in his last moments; frescoes, 
by Guillemot. There is also a splendid marble group of St. 
Vincent de Paule with foundlings, by Cabuchot. In the ceiling 
is the Apotheosis of that saint.—19th. The Conversion of St. 
Paul, and his announcement of the Resurrection before the 
Areopagus; two frescoes painted by Drolling. The ceiling re¬ 
presents the Apotheosis of the saint.—21st. St. Francis de 
Sales preaching, and the same instituting the Order of the 
Visitation ; his Apotheosis in the ceiling ; all by Hesse.—22d. 
St. Xavier reviving a corpse in the presence of idolatrous 
savages; his burial and Apotheosis, by Lafon. On the piers of 
the choir and transepts are statues of the twelve apostles, on 
brackets; and, on each side of the choir, the angels of Sacred 
Eloquence and Martyrdom, by Desbceufs and Drotz. Old 
and modern stained glass of great merit adorns the windows 
of this church. The upper gallery is worth visiting, (l) 
Fronting this church is the 

Fontaine de St. Sulpice.— The Place St. Sulpice, first pro¬ 
jected by Servandoni, was formed in 17 54; at the peace of 
Amiens, the fountain which is now in the Marche St. Germain 
was placed there by order of Napoleon. The present fountain, 
by Visconti, consists of three concentric octagonal basins in¬ 
tersected by sculptured plinths. From the centre of the upper¬ 
most rises a quadrangular body, flanked with fluted Corinthian 
pilasters, between which are circular niches filled with the 
statues of Fenelon, Bossuet, Flechier, and Massillon. The 
water issues from four vases into the uppermost basin, and 
four recumbent lions grace the intermediate one. 

A flower-market is held here on Mondays and Thursdays. 

10 A calorifere exploded in this church Jan. 8th, 1858, Rilling 
three ersons and severely wounding five more. 


PETIT LUXEMBOURG, 373 

On the southern side stands the Seminaire de St. Sulpice, 
a large plain building, erected in 1820, which contains a theo¬ 
logical library of 20,000 vols. (See p. 112 .) 

West of the fountain, is the Mairie of the 6th arron- 
dissement. The ground floor is Doric; the upper story Corin¬ 
thian, surmounted by a small campanile and clock. 

In the rue Garanciere, No. 8, is a fine hotel, formerly be¬ 
longing to the Duchess of Savoy. The front is adorned with 
a range of Ionic pilasters, with boldly-projecting rams’ heads, 
instead of volutes. In the same street is a fountain, erected 
in 1715, by Anne of Bavaria, widow of the Prince of Conde. 

Opposite this street stands the 

Petit Luxembourg. —This hotel, which is a dependency of 
the palace of the Luxembourg (see p. 374,) was commenced 
about 1629 by Richelieu, who resided in it while the Palais 
Royal M r as building. Ilis niece, the Duchess d’Aiguillon, to 
whom he afterwards presented it, left it to Ilenry Jules de 
Bourbon Conde, after whose death Anne of Bavaria, his 
widow, occupied and repaired it. Under the Directory, four 
of the directors inhabited it, the fifth living in the Luxem¬ 
bourg. Bonaparte resided here six months, before he removed 
to the Tuileries. It was. afterwards the residence of the Chan¬ 
cellor of France, as President of the Chamber of Peers. In 1848 
the Tribunal des Conflits used to hold its sittings in this pa¬ 
lace, and it is now the residence of the president of the Se¬ 
nate. At the western end is a chapel, built by Mr. Gisors on 
the site of one belonging to the ancient cloister of the Filles 
du Calvaire, the ruins of which were brought to light in 1848 
by the demolition of a small prison attached to this hotel, for 
prisoners under trial by the Court of Peers. (1) The present 
chapel (inaugurated Dec. 5th, 1855) is in the style of 
the 15th century, with a square tower facing the rue de 
Vaugirard, and a pedimented front and niches facing the 
garden of the Luxembourg. A cloister extends from it, en¬ 
closing a square. 

Turning to the left into the rue de Vaugirard, we find, at 
the corner of the rue de Conde, the site of a house once in¬ 
habited by the poet Clement Marot. Further on is the Theatre 
de TOdeon (see Theatres). Returning a few steps, and turn¬ 
ing into the rue de Tournon, we perceive the old hotel of 
Concino Concini, Marshal d’Ancre, now converted into bar¬ 
racks. When pillaged by the populace in 1617, upwards of 
600 , 000 fr. worth of jewels fell into their hands. Louis XIII. 

( 1 ) The ministers of Charles X., and afterwards Lecomte and 
Henry, who attempted the life of Louis Philippe, were confined 
in this prison. 


374 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

lived in it for some time. But the chief point of interest 

here is the 

Palace of the Luxembourg. (1)—Upon the site of this 
[palace Robert de Ilarlay de Sancy erected a large house, sur¬ 
rounded by gardens, in the loth century. This mansion was 
.^purchased and enlarged, in 1583, by the Duke d’Epinay- 
Luxembourg; Marie de Medicis bought it for 90,000 fr. 
in 1612, when the present palace was built, by Jacques Des- 
brosses, upon the model of the Pitti palace at Florence. It 
was then called by her name. On being bequeathed to 
Gaston de France, Duke of Orleans, her second son, it as¬ 
sumed the name of Palais d’Orleans. It was afterwards ceded, 
for 500,000 livres, to Anne Marie Louise d’Orleans, Duchess 
de Montpensier; and in 1672 to Elisabeth d’Orleans, Duchess 
de Guise and d’Alencon, who, in 1694, sold it to Louis 
XIV. Afterwards it was inhabited by the Duchess of Bruns¬ 
wick, and by Madame d’Orleans, queen-dowager of Spain, 
on whose death Louis XVI. gave it to his brother, 
afterwards Louis XVIII., who occupied it till he left 
France, in June 1791. During the first years of the first 
revolution it was converted into a prison. In 1795 the 
sittings of the Directory were held there, and it was then called 
Palais du Directoire. When Bonaparte came into power, it 
was at First devoted to the sittings of the consuls, and received 
the name of Palais du Consulat, and, shortly after, that of 
Palais du Senat Conservateur. This senate held its sittings 
there till its dissolution in 1814, when the Chamber of Peers 
was created. In March and April 1848 Louis Blanc held 
bis socialist meetings of workmen there. In the subsequent 
month of May, the Executive Commission occupied it during 
its ephemeral existence. Private authorised societies were 
afterwards permitted occasionally to hold extraordinary public 
sittings in the late Chamber of Peers, and since 1852 it has 
resumed its old destination and name of Palais du Senat. (2) 

Exterior. —The edifice is remarkable for the beauty of its 
proportions, and its solidity. The court forms a parallelo¬ 
gram of 360 feet, by 300. The front towards the rue de 
Vaugirard consists of two large pavilions, connected toge¬ 
ther by terraces, in the centre of which rises a cupola, sur¬ 
rounded with statues. This front is connected with the prin- 

( 1 ) For a more detailed account, and interesting anecdotes 
connected with this palace, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8 vo., 
published by Messrs. Galignani and Co. 

(2) At the close of the session of 1847 the number of peers was 
305 . The present number of Senators is 150, exclusive of the 
Princes of the Blood, Cardinals, and Archbishops. 


PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 37 5 

cipal pile of building, by two arcaded corridors. Four large 
square pavilions terminate the angles of the main building, 
which consists of a raised ground-floor, an upper story, and 
attic. A new building entirely screens the lower and partially 
the upper portion of the hack of the original edifice. The clock 
pavilion is ornamented with allegorical figures, 8 feet high, of 
Eloquence, Justice, Wisdom, Prudence, War, and Peace, by Pra- 
dier.The clock (by Lepaute)., is surmounted by IwoGlenii, and a 
figure of Fame in bas-relief. The lower story is decorated with 
bossaged Tuscan pilasters, the second with Doric, and the 
third with Ionic pilasters. The grand staircase is Ionic. 

Interior. —On entering the apartments now occupied by 
the Senate, the first room, called Salle des Gardes, is adorned 
with statues of Aristides, Cincinnalus, Cicero, Leonidas, Solon, 
by Roland, and Pericles, by Masson. Next follows the 
Salle d’Attente, where a pedestal, formerly adorned with 
the statue of the late Duke of Orleans, now bears the 
statue of Julius Caesar, of bronze and marble, brought here 
from the Louvre. The ceiling, by Jadin, represents Aurora. 
There are, besides, statues of Dope and Perseus, Achilles and 
Briseis, by Pollet, and busts of Lally Tollendal, Simeon, and 
Cuvier, the walls of the adjoining Salon de I’Empereur are 
decorated with paintings representing : Charles IX. receiving 
the keys of Paris from ITiopital, who refuses his consent to 
the massacre of St. Bartholomew, by Caminade; St. Louis, by 
Flandrin; the Duke of Guise (Le Balafre) proposing the League 
to Harlay, by Yinchon; Louis XIII. and Richelieu, by Ca- 
banel, and Charlemagne dictating the Capitularies, by Bou- 
chot. Here is also a full-length statue of the Emperor, in 
white marble, by Jaley. The ceiling, by Decaisne, repre¬ 
sents Union, Force, and Abundance; and, in a small medal¬ 
lion, a portrait of the Due de Reichstadt. Next follows the 
tasteful and magnificent 

Salle du Trdne, an immense hall, formed out of the old 
salle of that name, the old Salle du Senat, and the Salle des 
Conferences. This splendid saloon is gorgeously gilt and 
sculptured; the three ceilings belonging to the old Salles above 
mentioned, are now amalgamated into one, terminating in 
hemicycles, with a cupola in the centre, and charged with 
twooctagonal compartments and eight medallions. The throne, 
occupying the central w r all to the right, where the old Salle du 
Senat was, is decorated with an unsparing hand; itconsistsof 
a canopy supported by six caryatides, standing on a platform 
ascended by four steps, the whole profusely carved and gilt. 
To follow the order in which the visitor is conducted, we 
shall first describe the paintings at the end nearest the en- 


376 FIFTEENTH WALK. " 

irairce, viz. Napoleon 1. elected Emperor, by Signol; the 
signing of the Concordat, by Hesse ; the forty flags taken 
at Austerlitz displayed before Napoleon I., by Phelippoteaux ; 
Napoleon I. at the Invalides, by Couderc. The subject of the 
hemicycle at the end, represents the history of French civili¬ 
zation, from the defeat of Attila by Aetius, down to the se¬ 
cond race of kings. Both this and the opposite hemicycle, 
which continues the same subject down to Louis XIV., are 
by Lehmann. The octagons and medallions, painted by 
Brune, represent Pacific and Warlike France; manufactures, 
electricity, See. The central compartment represents the 
Corps Legislate. The ceiling of the central cupola, by 
Alaux, represents the triumph of universal suffrage: the 
number 7,500,000 on the urn expresses the votes given to 
the present Emperor. At the corners of this part of the 
saloon are four marble statues by Duret. A door to the right 
will lead the visitor into the elegant Galcriecles Busies, which 
runs parallel to the Salle du Tr6ne, and is filled with busts 
of the great generals and statesmen of the first Empire, such 
as Jourdan, Macdonald, the Cardinal de Belloy, etc. The ceil • 
mg is by Vauchelet. We now enter the 

Salle du Senat, destroyed by fire October 28, 1859, but 
now restored to its former state 1). The hall is semicircular, 
ninety-two feet in diameter, and covered by an hemispherical 
vault, painted by Abel de Pujol, in compartments, containing 
allegories of Law, Justice, Wisdom, and Patriotism. The 
ceiling is supported by eighteen Composite columns. In a 
semicircular recess are the seats of the President and Secre¬ 
taries, approached by steps. Eight composite columns sup¬ 
port the cupola of this recess, and, between them, on plinths, 
are the statues of Turgot, d’Aguesseau, L’Hopital, Colbert, 
Mathieu Mole, Malesherbes, and Portalis. In front of the 
galleries are busts of Marshals Massena, Lannes, Gouvion St. 
Cyr, and Mortier. On each side of the recess are large pic¬ 
tures representing Louis XL with the Dauphin receiving the 
Deputies of Paris, and Philippe de Valois congratulated by 
the Peers on the reforms he had introduced, both by Blondel. 
At the corners of the Salle , in elevated niches, are the statues 
of Charlemagne and St. Louis, in a sitting posture. The 
desks of the stenographers stand near the seats of the senators, 
who are at present 165 in number. Prince Napoleon’s seat 
is the first of the bottom row near the entrance to the right; 
next follow those of the Cardinals and Marshals. Opposite, 
and in a row in front of the President’s chair, there are seven 

(l) The fire fortunately (lid not extend to the archives, the 
library, or the Salle du Trone, all of which were in danger. 


PALACE OP THE LUXEMBOURG. 377 

seats for the Ministers, the President of the Council of State, 
and the Commissioners appointed to support the measures 
proposed by Government. The tribune of the Chamber of 
Peers has, since 1868, been replaced where it stood under 
Louis Philippe. The sittings of the Senate are not public. 

We now re-enter the Galerie des Bastes at the other end, 
similar to that already seen, and thence pass to the other ex¬ 
tremity of the Salle da Trone. The central compartment of 
the ceiling on this side, by Brune, represents the completion 
of the Louvre. The other paintings on this side are: the 
Return of the Pope to Rome in 1849, by Benouville ; Na¬ 
poleon III. visiting the works of the New Louvre, by Gosse ; 
the Distribution of the Eagles in the Champ de Mars in 1852, 
by Pils; the Senate proclaiming the Empire, by Couderc. 

To our right, the Cabinet de I’Empereur , contains 
paintings representing : Napoleon the Third returning from 
St. Cloud, by Coudcrc, and the Marriage of the present 
Empress, by Fleury ; Napoleon I. signing the Peace of Cam- 
poformio, by Brisset; and the 18th Brumaire, by Vinchon. 
On the mantelpiece is a bust of the present Emperor in 
porcelain, by Gille. In the adjoining Salle des Cent Gardes 
there is a marble statue of Jeanne Hachette, by Bonassieux (1). 
On descending to the ground floor by the Escalier prive de 
VEmpereur , we find to our right the 

Chambres de Marie de Mcdicis, originally three rooms, the 
first of which was used by that princess as a chapel, but has 
now been partitioned off to make a porter’s lodge. The first 
room we enter now was the Salle d’attente, now containing 
nothing but the present Emperor’s bust. Adjoining is the 
Chambre a coucher de Marie de Medicis, a splendid 
apartment, decorated in the sumptuous style of her time. 
The arm-chairs now in this chamber were used at the corona¬ 
tion of Napoleon. The panels are all richly gilt and painted in 
compartments, four by Philippe de Champagne, and four by 
Nicholas Poussin. The centre of the ceiling represents Marie 
de Medicis, by Rubens, and eight square compartments which 
it contains are by Philippe de Champagne. Those to the right 
are family-portraits of the house of Medicis; those to the left, of 

(1) The visitor may here endeavour to obtain access to the 
Library, which is not open to the public. It is a splendid gal¬ 
lery extending the whole length of the garden front, and con¬ 
tains 40,000 volumes, including the journals and reports of the 
House of Lords. In the centre of the gallery is a hemicycle and 
cupola painted by Delacroix, representing the Elysium of great 
men as we find it described by Dante. The poet is conducted 
by Virgil, who presents him to Homer, Horace, etc. Around the 


378 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

that of Ilenry IV. There are also four paintings by Rubens in 
this room. The scroll-work on the walls is exceedingly delicate 
and beautiful. The furniture of the period has been 
repaired, and placed here; it is gold and crimson velvet. 
At the revolution of 17 89 the panelling and paintings were 
taken down and concealed, but were replaced in 1817. In 
the case of marriages of senators or their daughters, the 
parties meet in these rooms to sign the contract. Returning 
to the vestibule, we now enter the 

Chapel of the Palace. —A parallelogram 09 feet by 20, of 
rich Doric design, and receiving light from the court through 
four windows. The vault is divided into compartments deco¬ 
rated and gilt in the richest style. The circular compartments 
representing the four Evangelists, and the eight medallions 
representing angels, each holding an instrument of the Passion, 
are by Vauchelet. Opposite the windows are four large 
paintings by Gigoux, representing the apostle Philip, St. Louis 
pardoning traitors, St. Louis in Palestine, and the Marriage of 
the Virgin; and behind the high altar is an immense fresco 
by Abel de Pujol, representing the Throne of God (Rev. iv.). 
Behind the altar, fronting the back entrance, we see an Adora¬ 
tion of the Shepherds, by Simon White, an A merican artist. 
In a niche in the wall opposite the altar is an ad mi mblegrotTp 
of an Angel and two children, by Jaley; and the holy water 
basins are attached to richly sculptured marble pedestals, sur¬ 
mounted by angels. Private mass is performed here daily. 

Gallery of Modern Art. —In the buildings on the eastern 
side of the courts is the gallery for paintings, formed by order 
of Marie de Medicis, and at first composed of twenty-four large 
pictures, by Rubens, representing the allegorical history of 
that queen. It was afterwards increased by several pictures 

cupola are Alexander, Achilles, Pyrrhus, Hannibal, Caesar, 
Marcus Aurelius, Socrates, Plato, Orpheus, Hesiod, and Sappho. 
The live compartments of the ceiling to the left of the cupola, 
by Riesner, represent the Gospel, Law, History, Philosophy, and 
Poetry; Ihose to the right, by Roqueplan, represent Industry, 
Military Genius, Eloquence, Political Science, and Mathematics. 
At the extremities of the library are statues of Montesquieu, by 
Nanteuil, and Etienne Pasquier,by Foyatier. In circular niches 
are four allegorical statues by Simart and Desboeufs, repre¬ 
senting Music, Philosophy, History, and Sciences ; also busts of 
Barbe Marbois, Fontanes, Cuvier, the Dukes of Albufera, de la 
Rochefoucault, and Richelieu ; Marshals Macdonald, Maison,and 
Jourdain; Marquis de la Place, Lally Tollendal, and the Clian- 
Tor d’Ambray. The adjoining reading-room was decorated 
Messrs. Boulanger, Scheffer, and Picot. There are two alle- 
\al statues by M. Jouffroy, and one of Gouvion St. C>r, y 


GARDEN OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 379 

which belonged lo the queen-dowager of Spain, and by others 
from the king’s cabinet. The gallery was long neglected, and 
about the year 17 80 the paintings were removed to form the 
museum of the Louvre. The pictures were brought back 
when the victories of Napoleon had filled the Louvre with the 
finest works of art in Europe, but were again removed there 
in 1815. The public are admitted to the gallery by a glass 
door within the railing of the garden at the north-eastern end. 
The first suite consists of a long gallery with a room at each 
extremity, and contains the choicest works of Eugene Dela¬ 
croix, Rosa Bonheur, Couture, C. L. Muller, Cogniet, Court, 
8cc. Changes are continually taking place in the arrangement 
of this gallery, in consequence of the rule which orders the 
works of each artist, on his decease, to be removed to the 
Louvre. The ceiling of the Long Gallery is painted by Jordaens 
in 12 compartments, representing the signs of the zodiac; the 
Rising of Aurora, in the centre, is by Callet. The room at 
the further end is enriched with Duret’s well-known statues 
of Neapolitan villagers, in bronze. Returning to the Long 
Gallery, a side door opposite the entrance leads through a 
covered passage on the terrace to a rotunda, containing various 
groups and statues, both marble and bronze, by some of the 
best modern sculptors. Beyond this there are five rooms, 
one of which, to the right on entering, exclusively contains 
paintings by M. Ingres, and his cartoons of the subjects which 
decorate the windows of the chapels of Dreux and St. Ferdi¬ 
nand. In the entrance-room there is a fine marble bust of 
Father Ventura by Oliva, and in the first room to the left a 
painting of the Battik of the Alma by Lami. The other pic¬ 
tures are described in the Catalogue, sold on the spot. From 
the last of the suite a fine view is obtained of the grand staircase. 

The Gallery of Paintings is open to the public on Sundays, 
and on all other days, except Mondays, from 12 lo 4. The 
apartments and chapel are visible daily from 10 to 4, but not 
during the Session of the Senate. 

Garden. —The garden was first planted by Desbrosses, at 
the time of the erection of the palace. In 1792, the finest 
trees were cut down, with the intention of building cafes, ball¬ 
rooms, &c., and establishing a fair, but the ground thus 
cleared remained waste till 1801. Since then great improve¬ 
ments have been made in this garden. Its general plan 
consists of a central part, composed of an octagonal basin 
surrounded with grass-plots, skirted by flower-beds, and 
flanked right and left with elevated balustraded terraces shaded 
with fine chestnut groves. Spacious flights of stairs descend 
from the terraces into the central part, which is decorated with 


380 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

numerous marble statues, chiefly copies from the antique, 
such as the Diana Venatrix and the Athlete. Facing the 
palace is Archidamus, by Lemaire, and around the semi¬ 
circular paths, right and left, we see Hippomenes, by Ottin ; 
Vulcan, by Bridan (1771); the Seasons, Minerva, etc. The 
chestnut groves above mentioned are skirted with the fol¬ 
lowing statues, beginning from the east:—1. Bathilde, wife of 
Clovis II., by Therasse ; 2. Bertrada, wife of Pepin leBref, by 
Oudine ; 3. Queen Iludrogote, by Elshoect ; 4. Ste. Genevieve, 
by Merrier; 5. Marie Stuart, by Maindron; 6. Jeanne d’Albret, 
by Briau; 7. Clemence Isaure, by Preault; 8. Mile, de Monl- 
pensier, by Demesmay; 9. Louise de Savoie, by Clesinger; 
10. Jeanne d’Arc, by Rude. On the opposite terrace, begin¬ 
ning from the south, are the following : 11. Laure de Noves, 
by Ottin; 12. Marie de Medicis, by Caillouette; 13. Mar¬ 
guerite de Valois, by Lescorne; 14. Valentine de Milan, by 
Huguenin; 15. Anne de Beaujeu, by Gafteaux; 16. Blanche 
de Castille, by Dumont; 17. Anne d’Autriche, by Ramus; 
18. Anne de Bretagne, by Debay; 19. Marguerite de Pro¬ 
vence, by Husson; 20. Queen Clotilde, by Klagmann. The 
eastern side of the garden has been encroached upon by the 
Boulevard de Sebastopol and the rue de Medicis. Its chief 
ornament now is a fountain built by Catherine de Medicis, 
after the designs of Desbrosses ; its niche is adorned with a 
group representing Polyphemus discovering Acis and Galatea. 
On the side facing the street, there is a bas-relief, by Valois, 
representing Jupiter and Leda. In the adjoining grass-plot 
stands a beautiful marble group, by Garrand, of Cain and his 
family after the death of Abel, From the central part of the 
garden a wide avenue extended to the Boulevard du Mont 
Parnasse ; but a great part of this, as well as a narrow slip 
on the western side, have been lopped off to make room for 
streets. The western grove of chestnut trees is interspersed with 
cafes and kiosks, where the daily papers may be read, and 
further north is a large orangery, surrounded by walks, 
shrubberies, and flower-beds, bordering on the Petit Luxem¬ 
bourg (see p. 373.) In this orangery M. Rivier, the head 
gardener, gives gratuitous lectures on pruning and grafting. 
There is also a collection of about 500 different kinds of vine, 
brought from foreign countries ; likewise a model apiary, 
lectures being given here annually by M. Hamet on the rearing 
of bees. Nine gates afford access to this beautiful garden, which 
has a handsome railing on the side of the rue de Vaugirard. 
The garden is 919 metres long by 570 in breadth ; its area is 
340,064 square metres. It is a place of great resort, and 
open from daybreak to dusk. 



CONVENT OF CARMELITES. 381 

The me de Madame leads to the rue de Vaugirard, where 
we see to our left, at No. 70, the 

Convent des Carmelites, once a convent of Dominican 
friars. M. Lacordaire, the celebrated preacher, belonged to this 
brotherhood. Part of the ancient house, with the Chapel, is 
still appropriated to religious purposes; the rest is occupied by 
private tenants. The chapel, dedicated to St. Joseph, is cruci¬ 
form and of the Tuscan order, without aisles. The foundation 
stone was laid in 1613, by Marie de Medicis. The dome, painted 
by Flamel, represents Elijah in his flaming car ; the altar has 
Corinthian pillars of black marble. The altar-piece represents 
the Death of St. Joseph. Under the communion table is an 
ancient alto-rilievo, in white marble, representing the Last 
Supper. A bas-relief, in gilt bronze, representing the Circum¬ 
cision. is under the altar table of the left transept. The 
chapels are adorned with scroll-work and old paintings, and 
the first to the left is decorated with a ceiling in fresco, repre¬ 
senting St. Camillus. In the following one there are some old 
paintings, illustrating several legends of saints, revived. It 
was in this convent the massacres began in Paris, in September, 
1792. Hundreds of priests, imprisoned here, were murdered. 
The heart of Archbishop Afire, who was shot on the barri¬ 
cades in June, 1848, is also preserved in this convent (see 
p. 281). The well-known Eau de Melisse and the Blanc des 
Carmes are still sold here. 

The rue du Regard, meeting that of Vaugirard, where it is 
crossed by the rue de Rennes, leads to the rue du Cherche- 
Midi, where, at No. 39, is th elldtel de Toulouse, where courts- 
martial are held. The building opposite is a military prison. 

Returning to the rue de Vaugirard, the visitor will find, at 
No. 109, a new Communal School, both for children and 
adults. The facade is adorned with a fine bas-relief, by Millet, 
representing Paris affording instruction to childhood. 

Next door to this, at No. Ill, there is an immense reser¬ 
voir, which receives water from the basin of la Villelte and the 
Artesian well of Crenelle, and supplies the faubourg St. Ger¬ 
main. It contains 216,000 cubic feet of water. 

On the Boulevard Montparnasse, to our left, so called from 
its having been in the olden time a favourite place of resort of 
the students of the University, who used there to indulge 
in reading verses, spouting Latin, and other academical 
pastimes, is the 

Western Railway Terminus, a vast and elegant building, 
facing the rue de Rennes, which is to be continued to the 
i Seine. Tiie terminus occupies 216,000 square metres. The 
front consists of two pavilions connected by a portico of 7 

I 



382 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

arches, over which are seen the gables of the arrival and 
departure sheds. 

Nearly opposite this. No. 25, was the house of Marshal 
Turenne. 

In the rue de Rennes, already mentioned at page 355, (here 
stands a small Gothic chapel, built of wood rendered incombus¬ 
tible by a chemical process. It is soon to be rebuilt of stone. 

Striking into the rue Notre Dame des Champs, the visitor 
will see, at No. 22, the College Stanislas (seep. 98,) and 
further on, at No. 51, a splendid Gothic building, still in pro¬ 
gress, intended for a new hospice. Continuing along the same 
street, he will reach the Boulevard St. Michel, which 
skirts the garden of the Luxembourg, and will lead him to 
the Jardin Botanique de VEcole de Medecine, now in a 
piteous state, but which will soon be again stocked with 
medicinal plants. Open from May 1 to Aug. 31, from 6 to 10 
A . M ., and from 3 to 7 p.m., except on Sundays and Fetes. 

Lower down in the Boulevard St. Michel, No. 62, is the 

Fcole Imperiale des Mines, and Mineralogical Museum . 
—This magnificent hotel, formerly called Hotel de Venddme, 
was built in 1707, by a society of Carthusian monks, and 
afterwards purchased by the Duchess of Venddme. The insti¬ 
tution to which it is now appropriated was projected by Car¬ 
dinal de Fleury, and commenced in 17 83, but was not 
definitively organized until 1816. Part of this vast building 
has now been reconstructed, to make room for the Boule¬ 
vard. Its front is plain, but tasteful; a spacious court, en¬ 
tered by a handsome railing, gives access to it. The professors 
and directors of the school reside in the house. The entrance 
room on the first floor contains a large skeleton of the Ichthyo¬ 
saurus. To the right we find the staircase, the ceilings of 
which are adorned with paintings by the late Abel de Pujol. 
The first ceiling on the ground floor represents Wisdom hold¬ 
ing out her torch, while the Sciences are listening to her 
words. The walls are covered with landscapes illustrating 
various geological formations, by Hugard. The ceiling above 
is divided into three compartments: the 1st represents France 
seeking improvement through Geology and Steam; the 2nd, 
Glory awarding crowns to the most distinguished men of 
science of France, from Descartes down to Cuvier; the 3rd, 
Mineralogy and Chemistry. We now enter 13 large rooms, 
containing a magnificent collection of minerals of all countries, 
including that of Hauy, removed hither from the Hotel desMon- 
naics. Beginning from thefurthest room to the right on entering, 
the minerals of France are arranged according to the depart¬ 
ments in alphabetical order, in presses, while the stands con- 


EGLISE DE LA SORBONNE. 383 

tain minerals of all countries scientifically classified. In a 
room adjoining to the first is a collection of the mineral pro¬ 
ductions of the French colonies. A series of ground and po¬ 
lished jaspers and agates are adjusted in the window-panes of 
the 7 th room, to show their transparency. A lateral room con¬ 
tains some geological specimens, and another Prince Napoleon’s 
donation of mineralogical specimens collected hy H.I.H. in 
Iceland, Greenland, Sweden, Norway, Sicily, &c.; but the 
principal geological collection of the Paris Basin, formed by 
MM. Cuvier andBrongniart, occupies six large rooms on the 2d 
floor, accessible by a staircase in the 4th room to the right, 
where a complete series of fossil bones, zoophytes, am¬ 
monites, &c. will be found. Models in relief of Mount Etna, 
by M. filie de Beaumont, and of Mount Vesuvius, by M. Du- 
frenoy, will attract particular attention. There are also 
four rooms filled with models of the various machines 
used in mining, smelting furnaces, specimens of timber, 
optical instruments, a plan in relief of the valley of Cha- 
mouny, and a model of the galleries of the coal-pits of La 
Grande Croix, in the department of the Loire. The first floor 
also contains an assay office, which is not public, and on the 
ground floor are laboratories, lecture-rooms, the council-cham¬ 
ber, and the library, which contains G,000 volumes. About 
250,000 specimens a!’e contained in the museum, which is 
open daily with passport, and to the public on Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays, from If to 3. The library is 
open daily to students and strangers, on application. Gratuit¬ 
ous public lectures are delivered here on geology and minera¬ 
logy during five months of the year (see p. 98). 

In the rue Monsieur le Prince, at No. 22, is the house for¬ 
merly belonging to Jean Goujon, with his bust flanked by two 
figures in alto-rilievo, representing Painting and Sculpture. 

The adjoining portion of the Boulevard Saint-Michel, to 
the right, extends over the classical ground of the old col¬ 
leges, such as those of Narbonne and Bayeux, now swept 
away. To the right is the 

Lycee St. Louis. —A college was founded on this spot as 
early as f280, by Raoul d’Harcourt, canon of Notre Dame, 
from whom it took the name of College d’Harcourt. The 
principal mass of the present building was begun in 1814, and 
the college opened in 1820 ; but the whole front facing the 
Boulevard has now been rebuilt with a monumental facade (see 
jp. 97). Nearly opposite is the 

College de la Sorbonne —built on the Place of Ihe same 
name, where a celebrated school was founded by Robert Sor- 
■ bon, in 1253, for a society of ecclesiastics, who might devote 




384 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

themselves exclusively to study and gratuitous teaching. The 
fame of this institution, which became the head of the Uni¬ 
versity of Paris, and conferred such renown on the Gallican 
church, is well known. The College du Plessis became 
absorbed in it; and in 1029, Cardinal Richelieu, who had 
graduated there, laid the first stone of the present buildings, 
to which additions are now being made, with a princi¬ 
pal front in the rue des Ecoles. The total surface occupied 
by the Sorbonne is now 12,000 metres. For a list of the 
lectures delivered here gratuitously, apply at the porter’s 
lodge (see p. 93).—The library, now called Bibliotheque de 
l f Universite de France, consists of 80,000 volumes, and is 
open daily from 10 to 3, and in the evening from 7 till 10, 
holidays excepted. Vacation from July 11 to Aug. 25. 

A special room is devoted to the library bequeathed to the 
University in 1867 by the late celebrated Victor Cousin. 
This room is open to students provided with a card, on Tues¬ 
days and Fridays, from 10 to 3 ; to visitors, from noon to 2. 

The Church, begun in 1635, after the designs of Lemercier, 
was finished in 1659. The front is pedimented, and of the 
Corinthian and Composite orders. Behind the pediment 
rises a magnificent dome, on a drum adorned with clustered 
Composite pilasters, bearing statues on their entablature. 
Towards the court is a fine Corinthian portico of bold propor¬ 
tions, with six columns in front, and four within, resting on a 
flight of steps, and supporting a triangular pediment. The in¬ 
terior is cruciform, of the Corinthian order, with chapels. 
The dome is painted in medallions and compartments with 
angels, emblems of religion, &c., and the pendentives with 
Sts. Ambrose, Gregory, Jerome, and Augustin. The medal¬ 
lions are by Philippe de Champagne. An oil painting by M. 
Hesse, of Robert Sorbon presenting his theological pupils to St. 
Louis, deserves attention. Above the arches and in the stained 
glass of some of the windows are the arms of Cardinal de Riche¬ 
lieu, and in the right transept is his celebrated tomb, thechef-d’- 
ceuvre of Girardon, executed in 1694, (1) and one of the finest 
pieces of sculpture of the 17th century. The statue of the car¬ 
dinal, in a reclining posture, is sustained by Religion holding the 
book which he composed in her defence. Near her are two 

(l) During the revolution of 1789, the tomb of Cardinal Riche¬ 
lieu, like others, was desecrated, and his head paraded through 
the streets on a pike. M. Armez, father of the deputy under 
Louis Philippe, got possession of it, and bequeathed it to his son, 
who, however, has since given it up ; and it was restored to 
the Cardinal’s tomb with great ceremony December 14 th, i86fi, 
in the presence of the French Academy, the Minister of Public 
Instruction, the Due de Richelieu, and other personages. 









HOTEL DE CLUNY. 335 

genii, who support the arms of the Cardinal. At the opposite 
extremity is a woman in tears, who represents Science deploi- 
in £ the loss of her protector. The two figures of Science and 
Religion are portraits of the Duchesses of Guyon and Fronsac 
nieces to the Cardinal. In the chapel to the right of the altar 
is a monument, to the Due de Richelieu, minister under Louis 
XVIII., partly executed by the late M. Ramey, but, unfortu¬ 
nately, the finishing of this monument fell to less skilful hands. 
The Duke is represented in his dying moments, supported by 
Religion. In the windows of the transept are St. Louis and 
St. Ursula in stained glass. Few buildings in Paris suffered 
more by the revolution of 17 89, than this church. It was 
repaired by Napoleon I. After the Restoration it was used as 
a lecture-room of the School of Law; but, in 1825, it was 
restored to divine worship. Open daily from 8 to lo a.m. * at 
a later hour the interior is shown by the porter for a small fee. 

Descending the rue de la Sorbonne, the visitor will enter 
the new Rue des Ecoles. Here stood a temple of Bacchus 
and subsequently the church of St. Benoit, suppressed in 
1791. (1) Opposite the rue de la Sorbonne is the 

Hotel de Cluny, 14, rue des M&thurins, certainly one of 
the finest remains of the ancient mansions of Paris of the loth 
century. It was begun, on part of the ruins of the Palais des 
Thermes, by Jean de Bourbon, abbot of Cluny, about 148o* 
after his death, his successor, Jacques d’Amboise, continued it 
in 1490, and it was finished in 1505. This most interestin'* 
mansion was inhabited in 151 5, by Mary, sister of Henry VHI & 
of England, and widow of Louis XII., after the death of her 
husband. Her bed-chamber is still called Chambre de la 
Reine Blanche, it being the custom of the Queens of France 
to wear white mourning. In 1536, James V. of Scotland 
celebrated his marriage here with Madeleine, daughter of 
Francis I. In 1565 it served as a refuge to the Cardinal de 
Lorraine, the Duke of Guise his nephew, and the Duke of Au- 
male; in 1625 the Abbess of Port Royal and her nuns took 
possession of it; from 1579 to 1584 it belonged to a troop of 
comedians; and the Section of Marat held its sittings in it in 
1793. At length, after various vicissitudes, it was pur¬ 
chased by M. du Sommerard, a learned and enthusiastic an¬ 
tiquarian, who formed here a valuable collection of objects of 
art of the middle ages, which his heirs sold to Government in 
1843 for 500,000 fr., the hotel included. Since then, it has 
been formed iulo a national museum of antiquities. The 

(t) The line of the Boulevard de Sebastopol on this side of the 
river, entirely coincides with (he old Homan road which led 
to Orleans, then called Genabum, 


25 


386 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

Gothic turrets and richly ornamented windows are the most 
striking features of this remarkable building (1). The turret 
in the court was used as an observatory by Delisle, Lalande, 
Bochart de Saron, and De Messier. The escutcheon of Jacques 
d’Amboise is visible above the gate, and the hotel lias been 
insulated by the demolition of the adjoining houses (2). 

Interior. —The entrance to the museums is by the tower 
on the right. The first room contains plaster-casts, rilievos, 
mosaics, 6cc. In the second room, a colossal white marble 
chimney-piece, with a basso-rilievo of Christ and the Sama¬ 
ritan, and the two canopied stalls, marked 532 and 537, de¬ 
serve attention. This and the next two rooms contain re¬ 
markable specimens of stained glass, triptychs, carved furni¬ 
ture of the loth and 17th centuries,church ornaments and gar¬ 
ments, See. In the 2d and 3rd room glass stands contain 
Roman and Gallic antiquities found at Beauvais, as also some 
of those flint hatchets and arrow-heads dug up at St. Achcul, 
Abbeville, and considered by many geologists as sufficient 
evidence of the existence of man many ages before the histo¬ 
rical times. Here also we see a stall from the church of An- 
gerolles, elaborately carved, of the 15th century. The stands 
in the 4th room display various embroidered stuffs of the 15th 
and loth centuries. In the 5th room there is some fine Beau¬ 
vais tapestry. A passage, in which the visitor will remark some 
curious carvings and embroidery, and fragments of mural 
paintings of the 9th century, leads to the Ancienne Salle des 
Thermes, a lofty hall, built on the foundations of an old one, 
which threatened ruin. Here are exposed to view ten speci¬ 
mens of beautiful Flemish tapestry, seven of which illustrate 
the history of David and Bathsheba. The various biblical 
personages represented in them are dressed in the fashion of 
Louis XII. These valuable relics were once the property of 
the marquises of Spinola, of Genoa. In the centre of this 
room is a pedestal with a marble group of the three Fates; 
also two Neapolitan cars of the 17th century; in the 
corners there are glass presses filled with ecclesiastical attire 
of various periods, and behind the pedestal, a stand, with the 
remains of the crozier and vestments of a bishop of the 12 111 
century, and two others with medals and other small arti¬ 
cles. Opposite the entrance an arched doorway opens into a 
passage leading to a glazed shed, where we find four magni¬ 
ficent state carriages of the reign of Louis XIV., adorned with 

(1) See an essay by M. du Sommerard, on the Hotel de Clunv, 
n the catalogue, to be had on the spot. 

( 2 ) The new street thus formed lies on the site of one of old 
Lutetia. 





HOTEL PE CLUNY. 387 

profuse carving and gilding, panels artistically painted, Sec. 
Three of them are provided with springs ; the fourth, perhaps 
the richest of all, is only hung on straps. There are besides 
two sedan-chairs, both elegantly painted with flowers, See. • 
three sledges, one of which all gilt, and representing a dragon • 
and another, covered with Utrecht velvet, with a pair of 
enormous jack-boots of the same period ; a small model of a 
glass-coach, beautifully executed, and in the same style as 
one of the vehicles already mentioned ; and lastly, a sort of 
tilbury, besides old harness, &c. The walls are inappro¬ 
priately hung with valuable Flemish tapestry, which might 
have found a better place. Retracing our steps through the 
great hall to the First passage, a wooden staircase, bearing the 
arms and initials of Henry IV., and transported hither from 
the Palais de Justice, leads to the second story, the entrance- 
passage of which has a balcony opening into the hall de¬ 
scribed above, and contains, besides various weapons, suits 
of armour and carved chests of curious workmanship. This, 
passage gives access to two different suites; that to the' 
right consists of three rooms, containing valuable Flemish 
tapestry and old furniture, ancient crockery, terra-cotta, 
enamels, pieces of Luca della Robbia and Bernard de Palissy, 
and old glass. Returning to the entrance-passage, the first 
room of the front suite contains, No. 54 1 , an ancient bed, 
profusely carved, said to have belonged to Francis I., when 
Duke of Valois. In the stands we see some valuable MSS., 
weapons, tools, caskets, and tapestry. In the 2d room,, 
named after M. du Sommerard, we Find some beautiful ivory 
triptychs, a chessboard of rock-crystal, etc.. ; also several’ 
splendid ebony presses among which is one, No. 594, sent 
from Spain by Admiral Nelson to a cabinet-maker, named; 
Faivret, at Paris, to be repaired. In the 3d room, a series of 
minute statues of the Kings of France claim particular atten¬ 
tion. The stands contain valuable old jewelry, and glass, 
medallions, &c. In the 4th room the stranger will see an 
altar-screen of pure gold, a gift of Henry II., Emperor of 
Germany, to the cathedral of Basle. In a corner stands a 
triptych, brought hither from the church of Bomarsund. The 
faces of the Figures it contains are painted, and appear through 
apertures cut in thin gilt brass leaves, which cover the restof the 
surface. In the centre is a glass stand, containing ostensories,, 
embossed dishes, and eight crowns of gold, richly ornamented 
with sapphires and pearls, found at La Fuente de Guar- 
razar, near Toledo, the capital of the Gothic kings of Spain. 
One bears the name of King Recesvinthus (a.d. 049—G72)* 
Another bears a striking resemblance to the crown of Queen 






383 ‘ FIFTEENTH WALK. 

Theodelinda. preserved at Monza. The 6ix others, being 
smaller, appear to have belonged to the king’s children. 
The 5 th and last room, contains about 400 specimens of 
old Rouen pottery of the last century. Returning to the 
first room of this suite, we find* on the right hand, the 
Chambre de la Reine Blanche, alluded to above, containing 
valuable pictures and bas-reliefs, among which we may men¬ 
tion No. 7 59, by Primaticcio, representing Love and Diane de 
Poitiers as Venus, and No. 722, Mary Magdalen at Marseilles, 
painted by king Rene of Provence. Nos, 2824 and 2825 are 
two Italian spinets of the 16th century. Other old musical 
instruments are contained in a glass stand. This room leads 
to the chapel, an extraordinary monument. The ceil¬ 
ing is supported in the middle by an octagonal pillar, and 
is loaded with tracery. The chapel receives light from 
two single pointed windows flanking a recess, in which 
are three double windows with tracery. Here are sacred 
utensils, crosses, &c., a remarkable reading-desk, a baptis¬ 
mal fount of the 15th century, and an altar-piece represent¬ 
ing Abraham and Melchisedek, the mass of St. Gregory, and 
the Last Supper. From the chapel a winding staircase of 
singular workmanship descends into an open vestibule, com¬ 
municating with the garden and court leading to the 

Palais des Thermes, once the residence of the Roman 
governor of Gaul, as well as of the kings of the first and 
second races. It was in this palace Julian had fixed his re¬ 
sidence when he was proclaimed emperor by his troops in 
360.(1) It is mentioned by Ammianus Marcellinus, and by 
Gregory of Tours. A deed of 1138 styles it by the name 
it still bears (2.) The only perfect part of this palace 
remaining is a vast hall, with a vaulted ceiling. It was 
formerly the frigidarium, or chamber for cold baths. Its 

(1) From a Roman altar discovered here, it appears that this 
palace was built by Constantius, and not by Julian as had been 
erroneously supposed. The inscription on the allar was as fol¬ 
lows : Hoc quod erexit atrium virtus Constantii , D. Solis ornav. 
alt. R. virtus Juliani Cxsaris. 

( 2 ) It was bounded towards the east by a Roman road, now 
the rue St. Jacques, which, at the river side, was guarded by a 
strong tower. The garden of the palace extended on the west 
as far as the Abbey of St. Germain des Pres, which was built at 
the south-west corner of the enclosure, and a straight line, run¬ 
ning from the abbey to the river, determined the western boun¬ 
dary of the garden, also terminated by a tower. Where the 
Pantheon now stands, there was an amphitheatre. An aqueduct 
from Rungis, two leagues beyond Arcueil (see p. 495), has been 
traced under the Palais des Thermes. It runs from north to 
south, and is 2 feet wide by \ % in depth. 


PALAIS DES THERMES. 389 

dimensions are : length 65 feet, breadth 4 5, and altitude 54. 
In a large rectangular recess to the right on entering is the pis¬ 
cina or cistern, 32 feet long by 18 in breadth; its bottom 
is about 4 feet lower than the present floor of the frigidarium. 
In the wall opposite to the piscina are three niches with re¬ 
mains of water-pipes, formerly communicating with a sub¬ 
terranean conduit, partly discovered in 1857, for carrying off 
the waste water to the river. The masonry of this hall is com¬ 
posed of alternate rows of squared stones and bricks, covered in 
some places with a coat of stucco four or five inches thick. The 
thickness of the walls is surprising. From thishall a small room, 
giving access to the cellars (which cannot be visited without 
a guide, who receives a small fee), leads to the tejndarium, 
or chamber for warm baths, now entirely divested of its vaulted 
roof. Here the niches in which the bathing-tubs were placed, 
are still visible; at the furthest end, next to a flight of steps 
leading to the rue de la Harpe is the hypocaustum, a low 
vaulted chamber which contained the apparatus for warming 
water. This interesting monument of antiquity had long 
been used as a workshop, and, after passing through various 
hands, was purchased by the municipality of Paris, and an 
opening made to connect it with the Hotel de Cluny. The still 
existing hall is now filled with the relics of Roman sculpture 
deg up in Paris. It has been repaired, roofed over in the 
Roman style, and surrounded with gardens 5,000 square 
metres in surface, fronting the boulevards Saint Michel and 
Saint Germain (see p. 393.) The northern garden contains 
fragments of old sculpture ; such as the Evangelical emblems, 
the bull, eagle, lion, and angel, which formerly stood on 
St. Jacques de la Boucherie (see p. 262); the portal of the old 
convent of St. Benoist, which gives access to the garden from 
the hotel, etc. Here is also the cross taken from the church 
of St. Vladimir, at Sebastopol, sent by Marshal Pelissier. 

The Musee des Thermes et de I’Hdiel de Cluny, is open 
daily, Mondays excepted, from 11 to p.m.; on Sundays 
without, and on other days with tickets, for which apply to 
Monsieur le Directeur du Musee des Thermes. 

M. Delalain’s premises, opposite, occupy the site of a house 
formerly inhabited by Marshal de Catinat. 

Proceeding northward along the Boulevard, we find, oppo¬ 
site the Pont St Michel (see p. 307), the beautiful 

Fontaine St. Michel. —This splendid monument, inau¬ 
gurated Aug. 15th, I860, wasdesigned by M. Davioud, archi¬ 
tect. Under a niche, in the centre of a rich Corinthian facade, 
we see a bronze group, by Duret, of the Archangel crushing 
the Demon. From the rock forming the basement, a sheet of 



390 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

water gushes into five hasins of different forms, the lowermost 
being semicircular, and nearly on a level with the ground. 
These basins are flanked by two dragons spouting water into the 
semicircular basin. The four columns which adorn the monu 
ment are of red Languedoc marble, their liases and capitals of 
white marble, and the basins and body of the edifice of St. Yllie 
stone (Dep. of the Jura). The richly sculptured entablature 
is crowned with four bronze statues of Prudence, Force, Justice, 
and Temperance, by MM. Bar re, Guillaume, Elias Robert and 
Gumery. Under the segmental pediment, flanked by two 
eagles executed in lead, is the following inscription : 

FONTAINE SAINT-MICHEL. 

'SOUS UE REGNE UE NAPOLEON III, EMPLREUR DE3 pRANCAIS, C.E MO>U- 
MEIST A ETE ELEVE PAR LA VILLE UE PARIS, L’AN MDCCCLX. 

The attic is adorned with the monogram of St. Michael en¬ 
circled with the collar of the order of that name. The whole 
monument is 78 feet in height, and 45 in breadth ; the group 
of the Archangel is lb 1 /* feet, and the height of the columns 
19. The four statues of the attic are 9 feet each. The supply 
of water is 23 litres (5 gallons) per second (1). 

In the rue Hautefeuille, west of the Boulevard de Sebas¬ 
topol, Nos. 5, 9, and 21 are remarkable for their old tur¬ 
rets. At No. 30 was a convent of Praemonstratensian monks. 

In the rue dc l’Ecole de Medecine, No. 5, is the Ecole Im- 
jperiale Gratuite de Dessin, founded, in 17G7, byM. Bachelier. 
The court is in the Ionic style, and over the arched gateway 
are caryatides in bas-relief (see p. 99). At No. 15, is the 

Musee Dupuytren. —This important pathological collection 
is due to the public-spirited and celebrated surgeon whose name 
it bears. Dupuytren left 200,000 fr. for the establishment of a 
professorship of pathological anatomy. At the suggestion of 
M. Orfila, dean of the faculty, the council of the university 
then granted a sum towards founding a museum of morbid 
anatomy. The refectory of the ancient convent of the Corde¬ 
liers was purchased and arranged for the purpose. The front 
is Gothic, with an engaged octagonal turret flanking the gable. 
In the vestibule is a bust of Dupuytren, and in the centre of 
the hall is a marble bust of Pare, by David. Admittance is 

(l) At the corner of the rue de la flarpe, opposite the bridge, 
there was formerly a fountain surmounted by an ill-formed 
head, and built in commemoration of the treachery of Pd- 
rinet le Clerc, the son of one of the echevins de Paris, who 
opened the gate of St. Germain, afterwards Porte de Buci (which 
stood at the western end of the rue St. Andre des Arts), to the 
forces of the Bourguignons in His, in consequence of which the 
Count of Armagnac was slain, and King Charles VI. unhappily 
fell into the hands of the aggressors. 



ECOLE DE MED ECUS E. 391 

obtained, from 12 to 3, by a small fee to the porter. The 
unprofessional visitor must expect to sec many disgusting ob¬ 
jects. For further particulars see p. 134. 

To the west in the same street is the 

Ecole de Medecine, the scat of the Faculty of Medicine, in 
the Academy of Paris.—Medical schools were first established 
in Paris in 1469 ; and, in 1472-7, buildings for that purpose 
were erected in the rue de la Bucherie. In 1618, an amphi¬ 
theatre for anatomical demonstrations was built; but, in 177 6, 
the faculty removed to an edifice in the rue St. Jean de Beau¬ 
vais, formerly occupied by the Faculty of Law. The first 
stone of the present building, designed by Gondouin, was 
laid by Louis XV., in 17 69, on the site of the ancient Col¬ 
lege de Bourgogne; it was inaugurated in 177 6, and is a speci¬ 
men of elegant architecture. The front towards the street is 
198 feet in length ; the lateral wings are connected by a por¬ 
tico formed of a double range of coupled Ionic columns, inter¬ 
rupted by an arched entrance leading into a rectangular court, 
and surmounted by a bas-relief representing Louis XV., accom¬ 
panied by Wisdom and Beneficence, granting privileges lo the 
School of Surgery, and the Genius of the Arts presenting to 
the king a plan of the building. The court is 66 feet by 96, 
and is adorned with a bronze statue of Bichat, inaugurated in 
1858. At the bottom is a poriico of six Corinthian columns, 
surmounted by a pediment. The bas-relief of the tympanum 
represents Theory and Practice joining hands on an altar. 
The inner frieze of this portico bears medallions with 
the portraits in bas-relief of Pitard de la Peyronnie, 
Pare, Marechal, ai d Petit. The semi-circular amphi¬ 
theatre, to which this portico leads, will contain 1,400 
students. It is lit by a skylight, and contains a painting, 
by Matout, representing Ambroise Pare practising for the first 
time the ligature of an artery after amputation. For a list 
of the lectiu-es delivered here, all of which are gratuitous, 
see page 132 n. The external portico leads to the grand 
staircase on the left. Beside it, is a plaster statue of Breschel 
counting the pulsations of a youth, by David d’Angers. On 
ascending the staircase, a door to the left leads to the Library, 
a large room, with a circular skylight, containing 30,000 vo¬ 
lumes, and open daily, Sundays and Thursdays excepted, to 
students from 11 to 4, and to strangers by permission to be 
obtained at the Bureau. A door opposite to the staircase 
leads to the Museum of Comparative Anatomy, highly interest¬ 
ing to the professional visitor. The first is a rectangular saloon 
with an arched ceiling, lit by skylights, and occupying the 
whole length of the attic over Pie poriico. A gallery running 


392 FIFTEENTH WALK. 

round it is ascended by a winding staircase in the centre. The 
middle of the room is occupied by two rectangular railings, 
containing skeletons of the larger animals, such as lions, la¬ 
mas, &c. Beginning from the right below, is the anatomy 
of the nervous system, in a great measure due to the practised 
hand of M. Denonvilliers. A detailed exposition of the 6th pair 
of nerves in the human head is truly astonishing for its exe¬ 
cution. Next comes the muscular system of manniiifera, the 
osteology of reptiles and birds ; a valuable series of phrenolo¬ 
gical specimens, mostly consisting of the heads of criminals, 
among which, that of Fieschi, in a case next to the clock, dis¬ 
playing the fracture he received from his own infernal ma- 
c line. The osteology of the human skull is ingeniously exposed 
by a combination of springs holding asunder the sutures, which 
may be reconjoined at will. Dr. Dumoulier’s valuable phreno¬ 
logical collection is now arranged here. Next is a series of 
angiological specimens, injected. The general classification is 
according to the system of Mandl. In the gallery above is a 
series of embryology, £cc. The eye, the organs of taste and 
smell, follow in succession. Here we find, in two gilt frames, 
the dissection of the acoustic organ of the smaller mam¬ 
malia, due to the patience of the donor, Mr. Hyrtl, of 
Vienna. Next come the digestive organs, exemplified in 
the abdomens of various animals. The specimens of the lym¬ 
phatic system are injected with mercury. The circulation of 
the blood is exposed in specimens of various animals, and 
great attention has been paid to the study of the anatomy of 
the human body by regions. Among the skeletons of insects, 
that of the Scarabceus Melolontha, consisting of 77 pieces, is 
remarkable. A marble statue of Cuvier stands at the end of 
the room. The greatest praise is due to the late M. Orfila 
for his exertions in forming and enriching this museum, which 
is continued in the second room. In the third room, among 
various specimens of natural history, will be seen, under a glass 
bell, the model in wax of the dwarf Bebe, 20 inches high, 
born in the Vosges, and attached to the service of Stanislas, 
King of Poland; he died in 17G4, aged nearly 2 5 years. Here 
are also the organs of hearing, as magnified through a micro¬ 
scope, and a collection of substances belonging to the ma¬ 
teria medica, and mineralogy. In the fourth is a collection 
of anatomical and surgical instruments, filling 6 presses, 
among which, in one next to the window, is the case of 
instruments used for the autopsy of Napoleon, and a cabinet 
of instruments of natural philosophy. This museum is not 
open to the public, but students are admitted daily, Sundays 
and Thursdays excepted, between 11 and 4, on applying at the 


HOPITAL CLINIQUE. 393 

Secretary’s office. Casual visitors are only admitted after 4 
p. m. A fee is expected. The rest of thebuilding containsrooms 
for demonstration, a council-chamber, &c. (see p. 131.) 
The library and museum are closed from Aug. 15 to Nov. 15. 

Opposite is the 

Hopital Clinique de la Faculte pe Medecine, a handsome 
building, founded on the site of the cloister of the Cordeliers, and 
containing about 120 beds. The hospital forms a square, with 
a garden in the centre. The public is admitted on Thursdays 
and Fridays, from 11 to 12 (see p. 141). 

At No. 20, rue de FEcole de Medecine, in a back room, 
Charlotte Corday stabbed Marat, while in a bath, on the 13th 
July, 17 93. Turrets will be observed at the corner of the 
rue Larrey, and 22, rue de FEcolo^e Medecine. The latter 
street leads into the rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, so called from 
the Theatre Francais having been formerly located in it. The 
theatre was about midway, opposite to the Cafe Procope, which 
was the resort of Voltaire and a the literary and dramatic 
celebrities of that day. 

At the corner of rue Mignon, the visitor will remark the 
sculptured front of the ancient College Mignon , afterwards 
Granrfmont, founded in 1343 by .Cun Mignon, Archdeacon 
of Blois. It became national property in 17 90, and was 
occupied by the Archives of the Royal Treasui j in 1820. It 
is now a printing olfice. 

The rue de 1’Eperon and rue des Grands Augustins lead to the 

Marche des Augustins Quai des Augustins.—This market 
for poultry, now suppressed, was erected in 1810 upon the 
site of the church of the convent of the Grands Augustins. 


SIXTEENTH WALK. 

This lies entirely within the 5th arrondissement. We 
may commence it with the 

Boulevard St. Germain, —another of the great thorough¬ 
fares cut through some of the worst quarters of Paris. It 
extends from the Quai de la Tournelle to the Boulevard St. 
Michel, and is being continued to the Faubourg St. Germain. 

The Quai de la Tournelle owes its name to a large square 
tower, which was situated near the bridge of that name, and 
defended the passage of the river by means of a chain drawn 
across during the night, and fixed on the opposite bank 
of the lie St. Louis to a similar tower. The Tournelle 
was reconstructed by Henry II. in 1554. In 1G32, St. 
Vincent de Paule obtained permission from the King to 



394 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

have the galley-slaves transported thither from the un¬ 
healthy vaults of the Conciergerie. It was used as a prison 
until 1790, when it was demolished. The Porte St. Bernard, 
connected with the enclosure huilt by Philip Augustus, stood 
in close contact with the Tournelle. It was reconstructed 
in 1600, and demolished in 1787. 

The visitor will here remark the vast demolitions occa¬ 
sioned by the continuation of the rue des Ecolcs, which has 
absorbed the whole southern side of the rue St. ^Victor. This 
new street meets the rue Monge, which now opens an im¬ 
portant communication between the Boulevard St. Germain 
and the rue Mouffetard, absorbing several streets in its 
progress. 

Entering the Boulevard, we arrive at the rue du Cardinal 
Lemoine, so called from a college of that name, founded in 
1300. 

Here stood likewise the Seminaire St. Firmin, once in¬ 
habited by Calvin. It was suppressed in 1790, and served 
as a prison during the reign of terror. A dreadful massacre 
took place in it in the days of September, when ninety-one 
priests were murdered. (1) 

The barracks of fire-men, which we see at No. 24, rue de 
Poissy, once formed part of the great convent of Bernardins, 
built in 1244 by Stephen Lexington, Abbot of Clairvaux, to 
enable his monks to study at the University of Paris. In 1320 
the convent was ceded to the Cistertians, in consequence of 
which Benedict XII., himself of that order, added a church to 
that convent. (2) 

In the rue de Pontoise, opposite this, we find, at No. 19, 
the Fourriere, or pound, of the Prefecture of Police, for ve¬ 
hicles, horses, and dogs (3.) Further on is a primary school, 

(1) The following is the copy of a document referring to the 
above :—“ The treasurer of the commune is to pay to Gilbert 
Petit 48 livres forthe time employed by himself and three com¬ 
rades in the despatch of the priests of St. Firmin during two 
days.—4th September, year 1Y. of Liberty, and ist of Equality, 
pursuant to the requisition made to us by the section of Sans¬ 
culottes who set them to work.—Signed, Nicout, Jerome Lamark, 
commissioners.” At the back is the receipt, signed “ G. Petit, 
his Mark, X.” Most of the individuals employed did not know 
how to write. 

(2) It was declared national properly in 1700 , and pulled 
down in consequence, to make room for a calf-market, now 
removed to the great new one for every kind of cattle esta¬ 
blished at La Villette (see p. 431). 

(3) Dogs are kept here for a week, and then killed, unless 
claimed. 


ST. NICOLAS DU CHARDONNET. 395 

with a haut-relief, representing Paris taking childhood under 
its protection, and at No. 30 is the Seminaire de St. Nicolas 
du Charclonnct, an establishment connected with 

St. Nicolas du Ciiardonnet —a church built on the site of 
a chapel erected in 1230 by Guillaume d'Auvergne ; its re¬ 
construction was begun in 1650, and finished in 1709. 
During the first revolution it was sold as national properly ; 
but the purchaser not having paid the price, it returned to the 
government, and was afterwards restored to public worship. 
This church has no principal front, and has a mean-looking 
entrance, masked by houses, in the rue St. Victor ; the west¬ 
ern front consists of two stories, the lower Ionic, bearing a 
triangular pediment, the upper Composite. The interior 
is cruciform, with single aisles and a semicircular choir; 
its pilasters are Corinthian, remarkable for the anomalous 
absence of caulicles. The vaulting is semicircular, and 
the windows have circular arches. There is an unusual 
number of good paintings to be found in this church • 
they are as follows: 1st chapel, to the right on enter¬ 
ing, the Baptism of Christ, by Corot, and Christ healing 
the Blind. 2d, Dream of St. Joseph, and the Annunciation. 
3d, St. Nicholas receiving extreme unction, and the Mar¬ 
tyrdom of St. Thecla. 4th, a Descent from the Cross, and a 
Resurrection, both by Lebours. In the following transept is 
the Communion chapel; the altar piece is Christ with the two 
Disciples at Emmaus, by Saurin ; and on either side, St. Paul 
preaching, and St. Justin refusing to sacrifice to the Gods, both 
by Noel Coypel. Here is also a good old Ecce Homo. 5th, 
Paul before Festus,and St. Charles Borromeo administering the 
Eucharist to the plague-stricken at Milan, by Lebrun. 6th, 
a fine portrait of St. Francis de Sales in a medallion sur¬ 
mounting a handsome marble tomb, by Anguier and Girardon, 
in memory of Jerome Bignon ; it bears the bust of the 
latter, and is flanked by statues of Justice and Truth. On the 
basement is St. Jerome striking his breast with a stone. 7th, 
the Marriage of the Virgin. 8th, the Apotheosis of St. The¬ 
resa. 9th, the Apotheosis of Ste. Genevieve, byMaison. loth, 
(provisionally closed). 11th, St. Louis Gonzaga saying mass, 
by Ilochat; the Martyrdom of St. Clair. 12th, St. Charles 
Borromeo praying. The ceiling is by Lebrun, and facing 
the aisle is the monument to that artist, and another to 
his mother. The former consists of a pyramid surmounted 
by his bust, by Coysevox; at the base are two statues, Re- 
jigion and the Fine Arts deploring his death. The latter, exe¬ 
cuted by Tubi and Cottignon, after designs of Lebrun, re¬ 
presents the deceased issuing from her tomb at the sound of 




396 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

the last trumpet; the angel is particularly admired. 13th, 
The adoration of the Virgin and Child, by Bouterweck. 14th, 
St. Bernard performing mass, by Lesueur. 15th, the palsied 
man healed, by Sacquespee (167 5). 16th, Western transept: 

Christ raising the daughter of Jairus, by Vignaud. 17 th, the 
Good Samaritan. 18th, the Deliverance from Purgatory, and 
a Mater Dolorosa. 19lh, St. Catherine of the wheel, by Mar- 
quet; and the Baptism of Christ. Facing the right aisle is the 
Agony of Christ, by Destouches; and facing the left aisle, the 
Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, by Dupuy. The organ is hand¬ 
some, adorned with statues and caryatides, and the choir is 
richly decorated with marble. The remains of the poet San- 
teuil were removed to this church in 1818. (1) 

Crossing the Boulevard by the rue des Bernardins, we shall 
find on the Quay, to our right, at No. 55, the 

Hdtel de Nesmond, a building of the time of Henry IV., and 
close to it, at 47, the Pharmacie Centrale, formerly the Cou- 
vent des Minimiones, where the drugs and chemical pre¬ 
parations for the hospitals of Paris are kept and distributed„ 
Here are also large ponds for experiments on the breeding of 
leeches. Returning to the Boulevard, we find to our left the 

Marche des Carmes, or de la Place Maubert, built in 
1818, upon the site of the convent des Carmes. 

The Place Maubert, opposite this market, was one of the 
great strongholds of the insurgents of June. 

The adjoining rue des Carmes contained several old col¬ 
leges, viz., those of St. Jean de Beauvais, de Prcsle (2), 
des Lombards, and de Lizieux. Here we see the Gothic 
chapel of the College de Dormans-Beauvais, the first stone 
of which was laid by Charles V.; it has now been repaired, 
and forms part of a new Dominican convent. 

Entering the rue Galande, we find to our right the rue de 
l’Hotel Colbert. No. 20 is erroneously believed to have be¬ 
longed to that statesman. The court contains some bas-reliefs 
of the time and style of Jean Goujon. 

At No. 13, in the adjoining rue de la Bucherie, is a small 
building with a dome, formerly the School of Medicine. 

The rue du Fouarre was once the most important street of 
this quarter, known by the name of the “ Quartier Latin.” 
It contained several schools, where public disputations were 
held, and is supposed to have derived its name from straw 

(1) He died at Dijon, in 1697, from having drunk a glass of 
wine into which the Due de Bourbon, had, by way of a joke, 
emptied the contents of his snuff-box. 

(a) Peter Ramus was assassinated there during the St. Bar, 
thel^mi. 


ST. SEVERIN. 307 

spread on the ground for the scholars to seat themselves on; 
The works of Dante, Petrarch, and Rabelais contain frequent 
allusions to this street. In 13G8 the statutes of the College 
de Justice ordained that any scholar of 6 years’ standing, who 
should have proved unable to sustain an argumentation in this 
street, should be excluded from the college. In the same year 
gates were placed at the extremities of this street. 

The rue St. Severin leads to the church of 

St. Severin. —From an early period there existed here an 
oratory and cells, where St. Severin, Bishop of Agaune, who 
died in 530, conferred the monastic habit upon St. Cloud. In 
the ninth century the Normans destroyed the monastery. 
The present edifice dates from 1210. Its style is pointed, and 
its pinnacled front, adorned with various tracery, deserves 
attention. The tympanum of the porch bears a modern bas- 
relief by Ramus, representing the Virgin and Saviour between 
two angels in the act of adoration. Over the second entrance, 
facing the rue St. Severin there is a fine bas-relief by Maillet, 
representing St. Martin sharing his cloak with a mendicant. 
The interior consists of a nave and choir, with double aisles. 
A singular column with spiral cablings at the crown of the apsis 
is worthy of notice. The mouldings, of the date 1347, as well 
as the key-stones of the vaults, and the capitals are quaintly 
enriched. Some fine stained glass remains in the choir, and 
in the sacristy. The works of art in this church are as follows, 
beginning from the aisle to the right:—1st chapel, for bap¬ 
tisms, St. John the Baptist preaching, and the Saviour baptised, 
frescoes, by Flandrin, jun. ; 2d, Scenes from the life of the 
Virgin, by Signol; 3d, the Marriage of the Virgin and the 
Flight into Egypt, by the same ; 4th, in the ogives, the Calling 
of Andrew and Peter, and the Martyrdom of St. Andrew; be¬ 
low, Peter preaching, and the Imprisonment of the Apostles at 
Jerusalem. Fronting the arch, St. John the Baptist preach¬ 
ing, all frescoes, by Schnetz. 5th, Sts. Peter and Paul in the 
Mamertine prison; the Conversion of Paul; Peter denying 
Christ; Peter receiving the keys of paradise; all frescoes by 
Biennourry; 6th, in the ogives, Jesus and Mary Magdalene 
(St. John xx. 17), and the Penitent Magdalene. Below, Jesus 
at Cana, and Jesus rebuking Martha, frescoes by Murat. 7th, 
in the ogives, the Calling of James and John, St. John writing 
the Apocalypse under the inspiration of Heaven; below, his 
Martvrdom in a cauldron of boiling oil, according to a re¬ 
ceived legend; the Last Supper, all frescoes by Flandrin. 8th, 
Ste. Genevieve distributing food to the Parisians; the same 
saint taking the veil, and St. Germain visiting the wounded 
on the field of battle, by Hesse. 9th and 10th, a double" 


398 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

chapel: St. Severin visiting Clodovech on his sick-bed; St. 
Severin receiving St. Cloud in his retreat, and giving him the 
monastic habit; both frescoes by Cornu. 11th, the Lady Cha¬ 
pel : it contains a beautiful marble statue of the Virgin and 
Child, by Bridan, and a painting of the same, by Bellet 12th. 
The Sermon on the Mount; below, the Virgin and Child, by 
Von Holtorp. 14th, to the left, Belzunce, Bishop of Mar¬ 
seilles, making a vow for the cessation of the pestilence 
which raged in that city in 1720 ; and, to the right, St. Je¬ 
rome taking the Sacrament, both frescoes by Gerome. 15th, 
St. Louis carrying the Crown of Thorns in procession, and 
his Death, by Leloir. loth, the Life and Death of St. Charles 
Borromeo,infour compartments, by Jobbe-Duval. 18th, Life 
of St. Francis of Assisi, 4 frescoes, by Stenheil. The other 
chapels are provisionally closed. 

Proceeding up the rue St. Jacques, we arrive at the 

College Imperial de France, founded in 1529, by Fran¬ 
cis I., at the solicitation of Parvi, his preacher, and the cele¬ 
brated Budecus. Professorships have since been founded in it by 
most of the subsequent sovereigns, and, previous to the middle of 
the loth century, 400 or 500 students regularly attended the 
lectures of this college. The wars and contagious disorders 
that afflicted Paris at the close of that century drove away the 
scholars and professors; but Ilenry IV. formed the project of 
erecting a new college, and had those of Treguier, Leon, and 
Cambrai, pulled down to make room for it. This intention, 
frustrated by his death, was partially carried into execution by 
Louis XIII.; it was again suspended till 1774, when the college 
was entirely rebuilt by Chalgrin. The buildings, of simple 
but elegant design, enclose three courts, the principal of 
which, facing the rue des Ecoles, is entered by a rusticated 
arch surmounted by a sculptured pediment and flanked with 
railings. (1) The left wing contains laboratories for chemistry, 
and lecture-rooms. The right wing gives access through a ves¬ 
tibule decorated with busts of Remusat, Vauquelin, Ampere, 
Sacy, Daunou, Portal, Andrieux, and Jouffroy, to the second 
court, separated from the third by a portico of coupled Doric 
columns. The latter court opens by a railing into the rue St. 
Jacques, over the entrance of which are two busts, representing 
Science and Literature, their different branches being inscribed 
in wreaths below. There are eight lecture-rooms ; that for 
physics has two oil-paintings, the first, by Lethiers, re- 

(1) The insurgents of June, 1848, had erected formidable bar¬ 
ricades on the Place Cambrai. M. Bixio, the representative, was 
here shot through the body while attempting to scale one of 
them at the head of a company of the line. 


COLLEGE DE FRANCE. 399 

presents Francis I. signing the order for the establish¬ 
ment of the college; the other, by Thevenin, represents 
Henry IV. endowing the professorships. In the oriental lec¬ 
ture-room is a valuable painting, by Camus, of the Death of 
Jacques Delille. In the upper stories are cabinets of minera¬ 
logy and natural philosophy, and a library. A prospectus of 
the numerous lectures delivered here may be had at the col¬ 
lege (see p. 95). The visitor should ask to see the aqua¬ 
riums established by M. Coste for his experiments in pisci¬ 
culture. They are situated in a wooden building in the garden, 
and consist of large stone reservoirs divided into compart¬ 
ments, where the young fish are confined according to their 
ages. For hatching the spawn, there is a series of small 
troughs, not more than 12 inches long, by 4 in breadth, soar- 
ranged that the water of the first descends into the second, and 
so on, running continuously over the spawn, which is laid on 
grates made of glass tubes fitting into the troughs. The 
spawn, being fecundated in October or November, is hatched 
in February. The young fish remain about six weeks with¬ 
out taking solid food, after which they are fed with meat, 
liver, heart, etc. Trout and salmon are the only fish reared 
here. Hybrids of these two kinds have been successfully ob¬ 
tained. (1) A few faggots with oysters attached to them 
will give an idea of the method adopted by M. Coste along the 
coasts of France for establishing new oyster beds. 

Nearly opposite the College de France, a little to the east, 
stood La Tour Bichat, or de St. Jean de Latran, which, with 
the adjoining ground, called Cour de la Vacherie , belonged 
to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, afterwards 
Knights of Malta, first established in Paris in 1171. This 
place enjoyed the privilege of sanctuary. (2) 

Behind the College de France stood the 

College Duplessis —founded by Geoffroy Duplessis, se¬ 
cretary of Philippe le Long, in 1322, under the pontificate 
of John XXII. Cardinal Richelieu took this college under his 
special protection, on account of the name it bore, and re¬ 
built it. In 1808, it w r as occupied by the ficole Normale 

(1) The fecundated spawn of salmon and trout has been sent 
from this establishment as far as Warsaw and Naples to he 
hatched there. The fish in the lakes oT the Bois de Boulogne 
and in the ponds of St. Cloud, Villeneuve l’Etang, etc. were 
all hatched in Paris at the College de France, which is in 
constant correspondence with the great piscicultural establish¬ 
ment at Iluningen. 

( 2 ) The demolitions brought a large number of parchments 
to light, most of them of the 13th and nth centuries. These 
were carefully collected and deposited at the Hotel de Ville. 




400 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

(see p. 4^3), and in 1848 by the Ecole d' Administration, 
which was soon after suppressed. The building has recently 
been demolished in order to make room for the erection of an 
elegant edifice which will gradually replace the dingy-looking 

LycEe Louis le Grand. —The largest and most important 
Imperial lyceum of Paris. It was formerly the College de 
Clermont, 'founded in 1560. by Guillaume Duprat, bishop of 
Clermont. The first stoneof the chapel was laid by Henry III., 
in 1582. The Jesuits bought it in 1563 , but being expelled 
from France in 1594, were obliged to abandon it, and though 
recalled in 1604, were not allowed to reopen it till 1618, 
when they rebuilt it, after the designs of Augustin Guillain, 
and named it after Louis XIV. The Jesuits being driven a 
second time from France in 17 63, the members of the College 
de Lisieux removed into this building. In 1792 this college, 
organised under a new form, received the name of College de 
VEgalite; in 1800, that of Prytanee Frangais; in 1804, that 
of Lycee Imperial; in 1814, it resumed its former name of 
College Louis le Grand. In 1848 it was called Lycee Des¬ 
cartes. It contains a large library (see p. 97). 

The stranger may now turn into the rue Soufflot, when he 
will see before him the stately pile of 

The Pantheon, which, by a decree of Dec. 6th, 1851, has 
resumed its former name of church of Ste. Genevieve. (1) 
Clovis, at the solicitation of his queen and Ste. Genevieve, 
built a church to the apostles Peter and Paul near his palace. 
To the church a religious community was afterwards attached, 
and the house became a celebrated abbey. Ste. Genevieve was 
buried, in 512, in this church, which was thenceforward dedi¬ 
cated to her, and she became the patron saint of Paris. The 
church having fallen into ruins, Louis XV. was induced by 
Mme. de Pompadour to erect one near it upon a magnifi¬ 
cent scale, after the designs of Soufflot, and, on the 6th of 
Sept., 17 64, laid the first stone. The cost of the building 
was defrayed by a lottery. At the corners, in front of the 
railing which surrounds the whole edifice, are two magnificent 
candelabra of cast iron. The portico, to which a flight of 11 
steps, occupying the whole breadth of the front, gives access, 
presents a front of 6 fluted Corinthian columns, 60 feet in 
height by 6 in diameter, which, together with 16 internal ones, 
support a triangular pediment, 129 feet in breadth, by 22 in 
height. The pediment contains a large composition in relief, 
by David, representing France, surrounded by, and dispensing 
honours to, some of the great men that have illustrated her. 

(1) The chapter of this church consists of a dean and six chap¬ 
lains. 


THE PANTHEON. 4 0.1 

On her right hand are Fenelon, Malesherbes, Mirabeau, Vol¬ 
taire, Rousseau, Lafayette, Carnot, Monge, Manuel, an I David, 
the painter. On her left are figures representing soldiers of 
the republican or imperial armies, with Napoleon in front. 
At the feet of France are seated History and Liberty, inscribing 
the names of great men, and weaving crowns to reward them. 
In the extreme corners of the pediment are figures of youths 
studying to emulate the virtues of their predecessors. The 
Figure of France is 15 feet in height. On the frieze beneath it 
is the inscription, in gold letters— 


AUX GRANDS HOMMES LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE. 








Under the peristyle there are bas-reliefs, representing Genius, 
Science, Art, Legislation, and Patriotism: also two marble 
groups, one representing St. Remi baptizing Clovis, the 
other Ste. Genevieve disarming the anger of Attila, by 
Maindron. The plan of the edifice approximates to a Greek 
cross, 302 feet in length by 255 transverse ; each limb of 
the cross terminates in a pediment. The two lateral fronts 
have also secondary entrances with bronze gates approached 
by steps. A low Corinthian gallery, behind the church, 
harmonizes badly with the unquestionable grandeur of the 
general design. From the centre of the cross springs a lofty 
circular drum, surrounded by a peristyle of 32 Corinthian 
columns resting on a stylobate. Above rises a majestic dome, 
terminating in a lantern, surrounded by a gallery and balus¬ 
trade. The height from the pavement to the top of the dome, 
is 263 feet, and the number of steps up to the gallery is 47 5. 
The number of columns in the interior is 130; in and about 
the entire edifice, 258. The breadth of each limb is 105 feet. 
The construction of three independent stone cupolas one within 
the other, is a curious feature of this edifice. A Corinthian 
colonnade, supporting a gallery, runs all along the walls of 
the interior. The vaulted ceilings are richly sculptured, and 
are 80 feet from the pavement. The dome, 60 feet in diameter 
at the gallery, rests upon solid piles of masonry. On these 
piers are bronze tablets, now concealed behind the new wains¬ 
coting, engraved with the names of those who fell in the 
revolution of 1830, in gold letters. The painting of the 
dome is by Gros, who received 100,000 francs for its execu¬ 
tion, and was created a baron by Charles X. It is a fine compo¬ 
sition, extending over a superficies of 3,7 21 square feet. (1) 

During the revolution of 17 89 the walls were ornamented with 
bas-reliefs relating to philosophical subjects; in 1826, these 

(t) Upon the lower part are four groups, connected by figures 
of angels andother emblems, each of which represents amonarch 









402 SIXTEENTH WALK* 

were replaced by attributes of Catholic worship. Eight 
of the frescoes of Michael Angelo and Raphael in the Vatican at 
Rome, by M. Baize, adorn the nave and transepts. The 
pavement of the church is stone and marble; under the dome 
it is entirely of marble, with a fine circular mosaic, the exact 
span (33 feet) of the upper dome. There are three altars in the 
choir and transepts, all richly gilt and sculptured, with cano¬ 
pies supported by Corinthian columns ; the left altar has a 
marble statue of the Virgin, by Demesmay ; oaken stalls for 
the officiating clergy are placed on either side of the choir. 
In the niche behind the high altar are painted the Saviour, 
and Sts. Peter, Paul,Germain, and Genevieve. At each corner 
of the transept, are gilt wreaths with the initials N. Underneath 
the church there is an immense series of vaults ; some of the 
stones of which are 50 feet in length, the whole undercroft 
being constructed without any cement whatever. In the 
vaults under the western nave, monuments and funeral urns 
are arranged like the Roman tombs at Pompeii. In the centre 
are two concentric circular passages, where a loud echo 
repeats the smallest sound. Within these vaults are ce¬ 
notaphs to the memory of Voltaire and Rousseau, (1) with a 
fine marble statue of the former by Houdon. Among the nota¬ 
bilities buried here are the illustrious mathematician, Lagrange; 
Bougainville, the circumnavigator; the Dutch admiral, De 

of France, who, by the lustre of his reign or the influence of his 
age, formed an epoch in the history of the country. Clovis, 
Charlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., are the monarchs so 
designated; they render homage to Ste. Genevieve, who descends 
towards them on clouds. In the heavenly regions are seen Louis 
XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth. A 
glory at the loftiest point indicates the presence of the Deity. 
The pendentives are covered with paintings by Gerard, repre¬ 
senting Glory embracing Napoleon, France, Justice, and Death. 

(l) On the tomb of Voltaire are the following inscriptions: 
<l Aux manes de Voltaire. L’Assemble Nationale a d£cret<5,le 30 
juin, 1791, qu’il avait inerite les honneurs dus aux grands homines.” 
“ Poete, historien, philosophe, il agrandit l’esprit humain ; il 
lui apprit qu’il devait etre fibre.”—“ 11 defendit Calas, Sirven, 
de la Barre, et Montbailly.”—“11 combattit les athees et les fa- 
natiques, inspira la tolerance, et reclama les droits de l’homme 
contre la servitude de la fcodalite.” On the tomb of Rousseau is 
the following : “ Ici repose l’homme de la nature et de la verity.” 
On the opposite side a hand, holding a torch, is represented issuing 
from the tomb, meaning that Rousseau casts light around him 
even after death. The remains of these celebrated writers were 
secretly removed from the Pantheon duringthe Restoration; their 
tombs are shown at present, hut the clergy have caused them to 
be separated from the others by partitions. 


ECOLE DE DROIT. 403 

Winter; Soufflot, the architect of the church; Marshal Lannes, 
Duke tie Montebello, £cc. Mirabeau was interred here, with 
great pomp, in 1791. The celebrated apotheoses of Voltaire 
and Rousseau took place the same year. Marat was buried 
here; but bis remains, as well as those of Mirabeau, were 
afterwards depantheonized by order of the National Conven¬ 
tion. (1) In one of the recesses is a model of the building 
in plaster, in the proportion of 1 to 24, with sections, which 
will give the visitor a clear idea of the general construction. 
This building has cost 30 millions of francs since its 
foundation. The visitor is strongly recommended not only 
to visit the vaults, but also to ascend the dome; which, being 
the most elevated building in the capital, affords a magnificent 
view. Strangers are readily admitted, but a small gratuity is 
expected. (2) Facing this noble monument is the 

Ecole de Droit, erected by Soufflot in 177 1. The entrance 
is ornamented with four Ionic columns, crowned by a pedi¬ 
ment, and the interior of the building possesses some commo¬ 
dious lecture-rooms. The first establishment of regular schools 
of law in France dates from 1384, and the re-organization of 
the Faculty of Paris took place in 17G2, by order of Louis XV. 
For a list of the lectures delivered here, see page 94; the 
hours, 6cc., may be learnt at the establishment. Here is also a 
public library of 8,000 volumes, open daily from 10 to 3. 

The Maine and Justice de Paix of the 5th arrondissement op¬ 
posite, is constructed after the same design, and forms, with the 
Ecolcde Droit, a circular arc in front of the Pantheon. In one of 
its rooms is a bust of M. Shnonin, clockmaker, who bequeathed 
315,000 francs to found 33 beds at the Hopital desIncurables, 
and in the great hall there is another of the late Madame 
Rendu, or Soeur Rosalie, distinguished for her charity. 

The northern side of the Place is occupied by two new build¬ 
ings. The first and western one is the handsome front of the 
College Ste. Barbe, (see p. 97,) which stretches to the rue de 
Reims behind, of which it occupies a whole side. This college, 
founded in 1730, by Jean Hubert, was on the point of being 
dissolved in 1798 for want of funds, when some of its former 
pupils joined in partnership to support it. Their efforts suc¬ 
ceeded ; and having annexed to it the buildings of the College 

(1) The body of Marat, after being taken from the Pantheon, 
was thrown into a common sewer in the rue Montmartre, closet 
to where the Passage du Saumon now stands. 

( 2 ) The Place Cambrai, the Place du Pantheon, the rue Soufflot, 
and the rue St. Jacques were the most formidable strongholds of 
the insurgents of June 1848 on this side of the river. The Pan¬ 
theon was filled with insurgents, and was their head-quarters 
here. 



404 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

des Chollets, founded m 1283, and part of the ecclesiastical 
College de Montaigu, founded in 1314, the new buildings 
were commenced in 1841. The edifice east of it is the 
Bibljotheque Ste. Genevieve, presenting a front of 19 
arched windows, erected on the site of the remaining buildings 
of the College de Montaigu.—When Cardinal de la Rochefoucauld 
established in the Abbey of Ste. Genevieve, 1624, the regular 
canons of St. Vincent de Senlis, the community had no library. 
Shortly after the Fathers Fronteau and Lallemant formed a col¬ 
lection of about 10,000 volumes, which was afterwards aug¬ 
mented by Father Dumoulinet, who purchased several collec¬ 
tions, including that of the learned Pierese. In 1710, Letellier, 
archbishop of Reims, bequeathed his valuable collection to the 
abbey. The walls of the new edifice, opened in February, 1831, 
are externally covered with the names of celebrated writers of 
all nations and periods. The monogram SG. is engraved on 
discs along the walls, and inside the building. The entrance 
is by a vestibule, the ceiling of which rests upon iron arches 
supported by Doric pilasters, and adorned with busts of St. Ber¬ 
nard, Montaigne, Pascal, Moliere, La Fontaine, Bossuet, Massil¬ 
lon, Voltaire, Buffon, Laplace,Cuvier, Mirabeau, J. J. Rousseau, 
Montesquieu, Fenelon, Racine, Corneille, Poussin, Descartes, 
and L’Hopital. The ground-floor to the left of the vesti¬ 
bule is divided into 7 long galleries fitted up with book¬ 
cases; that on the opposite side contains, besides two ante¬ 
chambers, four large rooms, one of which, fitted up with 
transverse bookcases, contains, besides some printed works, 
upwards of 6,500 MSS. In the first ante-room we see the 
model of a vessel sent to India under Admiral Letellier in 
17 67 ; a bust of Cardinal de la Rochefoucault, the founder of 
the library, and a map of the moon, two metres in diameter, 
designed by Lahire in 1686, with his own hand. In the 
following room there is a series of portraits in pastel of the 
Kings of France, a bronze bust of the father of Philippe Ega- 
lite, and a large table in Florentine mosaic. After the reading- 
room of the manuscript department, we enter a parallel suite, 
in which we see a model of the city of Rome, beautifully exe¬ 
cuted, and of very large dimensions ; a collection of Indian 
arms brought over by the vessel above mentioned; then the 
mask of Henry IV., taken in plaster in 1790, when the royal 
tombs at St. Denis were broken open by the mob. Only 
four of these casts were taken, as the body afterwards became 
undistinguishable ; but the visitor will remark that death had 
produced but little change in the general features of that good 
monarch. Next follows, in a glass case, the skull of Car¬ 
touche. The other objects of interest in this room are a ge- 


ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. 405 

nealogical tree illustrating the descent of Jesus from David, 
and a planetary clock, which belonged to the Cardinal de 
Lorraine. The following anteroom contains a stuffed croco¬ 
dile, and a few snakes and tortoises, brought overby Admiral 
Letellier’s vessel. Returning to the grand vestibule, we as¬ 
cend the double-branched staircase, furnished with stuffed 
seats for the convenience of students who may wish to ex¬ 
change a few words with a friend. Opposite the landing- 
place we see a copy, by Baize, of the School of Athens, the 
original of which, painted by Raphael, exists in the Vatican 
at Rome. Flanking it are two medallions in fresco repre¬ 
senting Poetry and Theology, and opposite these, two others, 
with Philosophy and Justice, all by Baize. The ceiling of the 
staircase is painted in ultra-marine and interspersed with stars. 
The public reading-hall for printed works is entered 
here by two side doors, between which, facing the chief 
librarian’s desk, we perceive a beautiful specimen of 
Gobelins tapestry, representing “Study surprised by Night,” 
executed after a painting by Baize, slightly re-touched by 
M. Ingres. It is an allusion to the evening sittings, an 
advantage almost exclusively belonging to this library. The 
visitor will be struck with admiration at the happy effect of 
the application of iron to architectural purposes in this vast 
saloon, which occupies the whole extent of the edifice. It is 
bisected lengthwise by a line of stone pedestals sustaining a 
series of graceful iron columns, on the slender forms of which 
rest light perforated arches of the same metal, supporting the 
double-arched roof of the edifice. Bookcases are fitted up be¬ 
tween the pedestals, and others line the walls all round up 
to the window sills. Winding staircases in the corners com¬ 
municate with the rooms below. The hall is 300 feet long by 
60 in breadth ; its height to the roof is 30 feet. Four long 
tables for students occupy nearly the whole length of the two 
aisles; and in the evening, when lighted up with gas, the 
appearance is strikingly beautiful. At that time there gene¬ 
rally is such a number of students, that many are obliged to 
wait in the vestibule until a chair is left vacant, a numbered 
ticket being given them in the order of their arrival. Ladies 
are not admitted in the evening. This library possesses 
210,000 printed volumes, and the catalogue fills 32 folios. 
The reading-rooms are open daily from 10 to 3, and from 6 
to loin the evening, except on Sundays and holidays. The 
building has cost 1,77 5,000 fr. 

Immediately behind the Pantheon is the church of 

St. Etienne du Mont— originally a chapel for the vassals 

of the abbey of Ste. GeueyievQ. The abbot was so jealous 


406 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

the interference of the Bishop of Paris, that the entrance to 
this church still continued to be through that of Ste. Gene¬ 
vieve, and remained so till the 17th century. The date of 
the building is said to be 1121. It was enlarged in 1222, 
and the curious square tower and circular turret are pro¬ 
bably of that date; these have been repaired by M. Godde. 
The church was much enlarged in 1491, and the choir increased 
in length in 1517. In 1537, both choir and nave were nearly 
rebuilt, and, in 1605, some adjoining charniers, now used 
for the catechumens’ rooms, were added. The first stone of 
the portal was laid in 1610 by Queen Marguerite de Valois, 
and a tablet over the church-door remained till the revolution 
of 17 89, bearing an inscription to that effect. In 1024 the 
upper story of the tower was built; the church was finally de¬ 
dicated, and a new high altar raised, in 162 6. The oldest 
portions of the existing edifice are the lower stories of the tower 
and the northern aisle of the choir, which are not later than 
1491. The other parts are nearly all of the date 1537, 
except the western front, which is a most singular mixture of 
the Italian and Gothic. Four engaged composite columns, 
having their flutes intersected by carved bossages, support a 
rich triangular pediment adorned with modillions. The second 
story bears a circular interrupted pediment; and, lastly, the 
attic is gabled, and graced with a round window, and an el¬ 
liptical one above it, with tracery. The steeple tower is square, 
and flanked at one of its angles by a lofty slender circular tur¬ 
ret. The lateral and posterior parts of the church present a 
curious medley of flying buttresses, gurgoyles, turrets, and 
spires, some of them of no mean workmanship. The 
church is cruciform. The eastern end is octagonal, and an 
aisle, with chapels in each arcade, goes round the whole. The 
principal architectural peculiarity of the interior is the great 
height of the aisle, which is on a level with the imposts sup¬ 
porting the vaulting-ribs of the nave and choir. Lofty at¬ 
tached columns with Doric capitals front the piers of the nave 
and choir, and in the tympans of the lateral arches, over the 
circular ones springing from the central columns, there are 
small clerestory windows. Those of the aisles are lofty, some 
being filled with good stained glass, said to be by Pinaigricr. 
The tracery of the windows of the left aisle of the choir is 
peculiarly good. From the middle of each column, all round 
the church, excepting at the transepts, segmental arches are 
thrown from one to the other, supporting a very narrow gal¬ 
lery and balustrade, which encircles the columns on the side 
of the aisles. The arches of the choir are pointed. The choir 
is separated from the nave by a magnificent and elaborate 




ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. 407 

screen, consisting of a low elliptical arch, formerly divided by 
mullions and tracery; two spiral staircases, of exquisite beauty 
and lightness, wind round the pillars at the entrance, and two 
finely-wrought door-ways, crowned with figures, separate the 
aisles. The parapets of the staircases are particularly remark • 
able for their rich perforated tracery. The vaulting of the 
cross is ornamented with a pendant key-stone 12 feet deep, 
most elaborately sculptured. The works of art in this church 
are as follows :—1st chapel to the right on entering; Flanking 
the altar, a Holy Family, and a Flight into Egypt, both in 
bas-relief; a marble statue of St. John the Baptist, and two 
frescoes ; the Baptism of Christ, and St. John the Baptist 
preaching. 2d, Christ disputing in the Temple; the Pesti¬ 
lence of Paris, after Boullanger. 3rd, the Martyrdom of St. 
John ; here marble slabs display a list of the celebrated per¬ 
sonages buried in the parish, such as Lemaistre de Sacy, 
Racine, &c. 4th, a curious composition in stained glass in 
the window (1), and Paul and Silas before the Magistrates of 
Philippi, by Delaval 5 th, an Adoration of the Shepherds, 
by De Santerre ; St. Peter, by Jouvenet; a remarkable 
Entombment of Christ in stone, surrounded by the Virgin 
and six other statues of the size of life. 6th, an Adoration ; 
Christ descending to hell. In this and some of the following 
chapels will be remarked the sacred subjects on glass in the 
windows, with quaint mottos in old French verse. 7th, St. 
Charles Borromeo, by Varin (1627), St. Louis praying. 8th, 
St. Bernard praying, and the Jews collecting manna, by 
Subeyras. In the wall, between this chapel and the 
9th, there is St Stephen preaching, by Abel de Pujol. 
9th and 10th. Under a vaulted ceiling connecting these two 
chapels is a tomb, supposed, from an inscription near 
it, to be the original depository of the body of Ste. Genevieve, 
but which from its mouldings must be of the 13th century. 
The walls are hung with a vast number of votive images, &c. 
The second of these chapels has beautiful decorations, and a Go¬ 
thic altar, gilt and painted in the most gorgeous Byzantine 
style, and adorned with the statues of Ste. Genevieve, St. Ger¬ 
main, and Ste. Clotilda, besides nine statues of saints in alto-ri- 
lievo around the altar-table. Near this chapel, in the aisle, are 
two fine pictures, by Largilliere and Detroy (1696); one re¬ 
presents the Genius of France with the Parlement interceding 
with Ste. Genevieve for the cessation of a famine which then 

(i) The subject of this quaint composition is: “Many are called, 
but few are chosen.” To the right a few chosen approach the 
Lord’s Supper; to the left, all follow worldly pursuits: one buys 
a house, another a bullock, and a third marries. 


408 SIXTEENTH WALK^ 

raged: the other represents the Prevot des Marchands and the 
city officers in full costume, with a great number of spectators, 
among whom are Largilliere himself and the poet Santeuil, 
praying to Ste. Genevieve. They are said to be both votive 
pictures, offered by the City of Paris. 11th, an Epitaph 
on Racine, written by Roileau, and another on Pascal; Sta¬ 
tues of Charity, by Lailie, and of Hope, by Brune. 12th, 
(provisionally closed). 13th, a < rucifixion, with Louis XIII. 
and St. Louis introduced at the foot of the cross; a Holy 
Family by Coypel. 14th, a curious picture of Ihe Virgin 
and 1 hild, of the 17th century. 16th. St. Augustine crowned 
with thorns ; 16th, a series of curious frescoes, in 12 com¬ 
partments, lately discovered and restored. They are appa¬ 
rently of the 16th century, and illustrate a legend of the 
martyrdom of a Roman legion converted to Christianity ; 
17th, the Lapidation of St. Stephen : 18th, a crucifixion, by 
Porous : a Nativity, by 1 enain; 19th, the Death of St. Louis ; 
20th, “ Give to « oesar what is <>sar’s 21st, the Adoration 
of the Magi : St. John the Evangelist. The pulpit, by 
Lestoccard, after designs executed by Lahire, is supported 
by a figure of Samson, and ornamented with beautifully- 
carved statuettes. On the 3d of January, the festival of Ste. 
Genevieve, and 8 following days, pilgrimages are made to this 
church, and it is celebrated in Paris for the ceremonies that 
take place in it. (1) Pascal, Tournefort the botanist, Lesueur the 
painter, P. Perrault, Lemaitre, Racine, Rollin, and the Abbe 
de Sacy, were interred here. This church, from the rich effect 
p'odueed by its singular architecture, its pictures, and its 
other ornaments, is one of the most interesting of the capital, 
and is now being enlarged and repaired at a cost of 2,000,000 
francs. The interior is a favourite subject with French artists. 

The Lycee Napoleon is established in part of the church 
and other buildings of the abbey of Ste. Genevieve, founded 
in the year 508 by Clovis and his queen Clotilde. The former 
xvas buried here in 511. Up to the time of the revolution of 
1789 the tomb of this king existed in the church of St. Gene¬ 
vieve, but was evidently of more recent construction. This 
tomb was transported in 1816 to the abbey of St. Denis. 
The first church of Ste. Genevieve was burnt by the Danes 
n 857. Under the reign of Louis VII. the abbey was re-or- 

(l) It was on the occasion of this festival, on the 3 d of January 
1857. that Mur. Denis Sibour, Archbishop of Paris, xvas assassi¬ 
nated, opposite to the principal entrance, by a priest named Ver¬ 
ger, in the presence of an immense crowd. Although great efforts 
were made at the trial to prove the insanity of the culprit, Verger 
$yas contemned and executed on the aqUr of the same month* 



COLLEGE DES ECOSSAIS. 409 

ganized ; (1) in 1177, the abbey was repaired and enlarged and 
a school established in it. The church occupied the site of the 
rue Clovis. Little remains now of the old ahbey except the 
western wing and a tower enclosed by the modern building of 
the lyceum. The former is of the 14th century, the upper 
part of the tower is of the 15th, and the side towards the rue 
Clovis (so called because the lower portion of the tower is said 
to have been built in his reign) was erected as late as 132 5. 
The apartments still existing contain several objects of curio¬ 
sity, such as a series of portraits of the sovereigns of France, 
from Philippe le Hardi to Louis XV., and also one of Mary 
Queen of Scots. This lyceum, which is receiving considerable 
additions, was called College de Henri IV. in 1814, but has 
now resumed the name it received in 1802. The sons of Louis 
Philippe were educated at this college (see p. 97). In the 
first court is a bust of Casimir Delavigne. 

At the opposite end of the rue Clovis, No. 33, rue des 
Fosses St. Victor, now a boarding-school conducted by M. 
Chevalier, was formerly the 

College des Ecossais. —This seminary, first situated in rue 
des Amandiers, was established in the present building in 1665. 
It was originally founded by David, bishop of Moray in 
Scotland, in 1325; and again by James Beatoun, or de Be- 
thune, Archbishop of Glasgow, in 1603. A marble slab, on 
the chapel door, records these facts, in a Latin inscription, 
surmounted by the armorial bearings of the two founders. The 
college was rebuilt by Bobert Barclay in 1665. This and the 
two other British colleges were suppressed at the revolution of 
17 89, and their property sequestrated. The government of Na¬ 
poleon embodied all the British colleges of Paris in one esta¬ 
blishment, under the authority of the Minister of the Interior, 
and gave them the Irish college, rue des Irlandais. Over the 
door was inscribed, Chef-lieu cles Colleges Britanniques. 
Upon the Restoration, the former president of the colleges, 
and the other English Catholic clergy, claimed their property. 
That of the Irish college was restored without difficulty, but 
that of the Scotch and English was left in the hands of an ad- 

1 (1) The cause which led lo this measure was a quarrel about a 
carpet which the canons had caused to be spread before the door 
of the abbey for the convenience of Pope Eugene 111., who had 
come to Paris in 1145, having been driven away from Rome. The 
familiars of the Pope claimed the carpel as their own, on the 
' ground that the Pope had sat upon it. The servants of the abbey 
would not allow the claim ; high words ensued, followed by blows, 
and the carpet was torn to pieces in the fray. In consequence of 
this scandalous occurrence, a new abbot was named, and 12 tteyf 
canons transferred to this abbey from that of St, Victor, 





410 SIXTEENTH WALK. 

ministrator appointed by government, and still remains under 
the control of the Minister of Public Instruction for the purpose 
of defraying the expenses of clerical education of young men 
chosen by the Catholic bishops of Scotland and England. The 
present administrator is M. l’ahbe Caire. Its chapel, which was 
erected in 1072, and dedicated to St. Andrew, was repaired by 
M. Delavigne, the predecessor of M. Chevalier. It is on 
the first floor, and in the Ionic style ; part of the nave has been 
separated from the rest of the chapel by a partition, thus form¬ 
ing a vestibule. Here the visitor will see the monument of the 
unfortunate James II., erected to his memory by his faithful 
friend and the constant companion of his exile, James Duke of 
Perth, governor of his son, called James III., the Pretender. 
This monument, consisting of a black marble sarcophagus rest¬ 
ing on a basement, and surmounted by a pyramid of white 
marble, was executed by Louis Gamier, in 1703, and bears a 
long Latin inscription. On the top of the monument was 
formerly an urn of bronze gilt, containing the brain of the 
King, who died at St. Germain en Laye, Sept. 16, 1701. 
When the Irish college was made the chef-lieu of the British 
colleges, this monument was transported there, where it re¬ 
mained some years; but is now restored to its original place. 
Under the arch adjoining it is a slab, over the heart of the 
Queen, another over the entrails of Louisa Maria, second 
daughter of the king; and on one side, another over the heart 
of Mary Gordon, of Huntly, Duchess of Perth. In the second 
portion of the chapel is the altar of oak, of Corinthian archi¬ 
tecture, and richly carved. The altar-piece represents the 
martyrdom of St. Andrew. The monogram SA is frequently 
repeated among the sculpture of the chapel. In the study of 
the director of the Institution is a full-length portrait of the 
Pretender, in armour. Monumental tablets and inscriptions 
exist here in memory of James Drummond, Duke of Perth, 
who died in 17 20, and of the next Duke of the same name, 
who died in 17 26; of John Caryl, Baron Dunford; Frances 
Jennings, Duchess of Tyrconnel; Sir Patrick Monteith, of 
Salmonet; Sir Marian O’Conoly; Dr. Andrew Hay; Dr. Lewis 
Innes, confessor to James II.; and Dr. Robert Barclay. The 
valuable manuscripts of James II., which, as mentioned in the 
inscription on his monument, were preserved here, disappeared 
during the revolution of 17 89, but the Library still exists. 

Returning by the rue Clovis, a few steps to the right in the 
rue Descartes lead us to the 

Ecole Polytechnique, rue Descartes, established in 1795 
in the buildings of the College dc Navarre, founded in 1304 by 
Philippe le Bel and Joan of Navarre. A fine hall and chapel 



MANUFACTURE DES GOBELINS. 411 

of the 14th century belonging to the old college still remain. 
The front entrance facing the rue Descartes is ornamented with 
bas-reliefs representing implements and machines of war and 
peace, with five medallions on the attic, of Legrand, Laplace, 
Monge, Bertholet, and Fourcroy, (see p. 98.) The building 
with its enlargements has cost 2 , 000,000 fr. 

On the small square in front of this edifice is the new 
Fontaine Ste. Genevieve, replacing one erected in 1625. 

In the rue de l’Ecole Polytechnique, opposite, at No. 6, 
there stood the chapel of the College cles Grassins, founded in 
1569 by Pierre Grassin d’Ablon, for poor scholars in divinity. 
In the rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve, at No. 37, was the 
College de la Marche. Nearly opposite to it are the remains 
of the College or Seminaire cles Trente-Trois, so called from 
the number of scholars it contained, 33 having been the age 
of our Saviour. 


SETE1TTEE1TTH ITALIC. 

This comprises another portion of the 5th arrondissement. 
We may commence it with the 

Manufacture Imperiale des Gobelins (Tapestry and Car¬ 
pet Manufactory), rue Mouffetard.—From the 14th century 
dyers of wool have been established in the Faubourg St. Marcel, 
upon the Bievre, the water of that streambeing favourable to the 
process of dyeing. One of them, Jean Gobelin, who lived in 
1450, acquired considerable property in the neighbourhood. Ilis 
descendants continued his trade with success, and, having be¬ 
come extremely rich, discontinued business, and eventually 
filled various offices in the state. To them succeeded Messrs. 
Canaye, who, not confining themselves to dyeing wool, worked 
tapestry for hangings, a manufacture until that period confined 
to Flanders. About 1655 they were succeeded by a Dutch¬ 
man named Gluck, bringing with him a workman named Jean 
Liansen, who excelled in the art. The establishment prospering, 
Louis XIV., at the suggestion of Colbert, determined to erect it 
into a royal manufactory. The houses and gardens of the es¬ 
tablishment were purchased in 1662. Skilful artists were at¬ 
tached to the manufactory, and, in 1667, the celebrated Le¬ 
brun was appointed director. (1) Here is also the celebrated 
carpet-manufactory, which was made a royal establishment in 
1604, by Marie de Medicis, in favour of Pierre Dupont, who 
invented the process for finishing the carpets, and who was 
placed at its head with the title of director. The workshops, 

( 1 ) Lebrun painted liis famous battles of Alexander the Great 
as patterns for this manufactory. 



412 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

originally placed in the Louvre, were transferred, in 1615, to 
a soap-manufactory' at Chaillot, and the establishment hence 
derived the name of La Savonnerie. In 1826 it was annexed 
to the Gobelins. The visitor will pass through five rooms 
filled with specimens of rich tapestry and carpets of the reigns 
of Francis I., Louis XIV., and Louis XV., besides se¬ 
veral modern specimens, mostly executed at this establish¬ 
ment. Among these he will see copies of the Emperor and 
Empress’s full-length portraits by Winterhalter, both executed 
in about 4 years ; No. 93, the Transfiguration, by Raphael (6 
years), Juno, Ceres, and Venus, by the same master (4 years), 
the portrait of Louis XVI., by Callet (1 year), &c. Next 
follow the work-rooms for tapestry and carpets, six in 
number, containing 25 looms. The work is called the 
haute-lisse, from the warp being placed vertical, in contra¬ 
distinction to the basse-lisse, done at Beauvais, where the 
warp is horizontal. In the tapestry-work, which is called 
tissu, the workman stands at the back of the canvas on which 
he is employed, with the model behind him, to which he oc¬ 
casionally refers, in order to adjust the colour of his woollen 
or silken thread to that part of the picture he is copying. The 
object of the process being to present as smooth and delicate a 
surface as possible, all cuttings and fastenings are performed at 
the back. Hence the necessity of his working on the wrong side. 
The carpet-work is called velours ; here the workman stands 
on the right side, with the model over his head, at a proper 
distance from his eyes. As a woolly surface is required, the 
workman, in weaving, cuts on the right side of the piece. 
The carpets manufactured here are considered far superior to 
the Persian for the evenness of their surface, the fineness and 
the strength of their texture. The colours and designs are per¬ 
fect. Some of the carpets take as long as 5 to 10 years to be 
made, and cost from 60,000 to 150,000 fr., and even at these 
high prices the workmen are very inadequately paid. None 
are sold. The largest carpet ever made is probably that ma¬ 
nufactured at La Savonnerie, for the gallery of the Louvre : 
it consists of 72 pieces, forming altogether a length of more 
than 1300 feet. In one of the rooms will he seen several 
presses, filled with specimens of colours for dyeing, and also 
of wool ready dyed. About 120 workmen are employed in the 
establishment; they earn from 1500 to 3,000 fr. a-year, and 
receive pensions of from 600 to 1000 fr. when disabled by 
age or infirmity. The productions of this manufactory, which 
belongs to government, are chiefly destined for the palaces 
of the State. Connected with the manufactory is an es¬ 
tablishment for dyeing wool, direoted by able chemists* 







CHURCH OF ST. MEDARD. 413 

where Rn infinite variety of shades, many unknown in 
the trade, are produced. There is also a school of design; 
and an annual course of lectures on chemistry, as applicable 
to dyeing, is given here from October to January. The 
closeness with which the painter’s art can be here imitated 
will excite the visitor’s astonishment. A catalogue may be had 
at the lodge for 1 franc. Admission, on Wednesdays and 
Saturdays, from 2 to 4 in summer, and from 1 to 3 in winter, 
with Passport or tickets, to be obtained from the Director. 

Continuing northwards along the rue Moutfetard, the rues 
Valence and Pascal would lead us to the Hopifal Lourcine 
(see p. 140) ; but as strangers are not admitted there, and it 
is otherwise uninteresting (1), the visitor had better turn 
to the right, and visit the church of 

St. Medard. —This was, as early as the 12th century, the 
parish church of the village of St. Medard, dependent on the 
abbey of Ste. Genevieve. The front consists of a gable with 
buttresses; the nave and aisles are of the end of the 15thcentury; 
the choir and its arcades are of 1561 and 1586. The square 
tower, supporting a spire, is probably as old as the nave. In 
1685 and 17 84 the deformities of its choir and chapels were 
added. Most of the key-stones bear bas-reliefs, and the 
t groinings, with their ribs and pendant bosses, are exceedingly 
graceful. In many of the windows valuable specimens of old 
' stained glass will be remarked. In the first chapel in the right 
, hand aisle, on the panel of the altar, a valuable old painting 
on wood will attract attention: it represents the Descent from 
the Cross. The 2d is the Chapel of St. Fiacre, painted in fresco 
by Leuillier; to the left, St. Fiacre is represented preaching, 
and opposite, affording relief to the poor on a winter’s day. 
The figures of Charity and Humility are on each side of the 
, window. Next is a plaster Descent from the Cross, not with¬ 
out merit, and in the Chapel of the Crucifixion a Dead Christ, 
and several small paintings of some value, among which may 
be mentioned the Virgin and Saviour, St. Francis de Sales, and 
St. Vincent de Paule. A very good Annunciation is in the 
following one. The 7th chapel, behind the choir, is dedi- 
, cated to the Virgin, and is remarkable for the Marriage of the 
Virgin, by Caminade, and the ceremony of the Rosieres, insti¬ 
tuted by St. Medard, by Dupre. There are also two plaster 
; statues; the one is St. Joseph, by Jacquot, the other St. Phi- 

y 

(i) This hospital was inaugurated in 18 36, as an addition to 
la the Hopital du Midi. The buildings which it occupies were for- 
$r merly the convent of the Cordelieres, founded by Marguerite de 
. Provence, sister to St. Louis, about 1 284. In 1590 , the troops of 
Henry IV. pillaged the building and destroyed a large part of it. 






414 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

lomene, by Dubois. The 8th chapel has a fine picture of Ste. 
Genevieve, by Watteau. In the 9th is a picture of the Flemish 
school, representing the Virgin learning to read under the tui¬ 
tion of St. Anne, her mother. In the loth is some old 
stained glass representing Ste. Anne, the Virgin, and the 
Saviour. In the 11th, we see St. Vincent de Paule an¬ 
nouncing the gospel to the poor, by Fuller. In the 12th, a 
new painting by Boulanger, St. Denis causing an idol to 
fall by miracle, and in the 13th, the Baptism of 
Christ. There are two organs: the larger is over the 
entrance; the other in the right aisle. Over the canopied 
seat in the nave are the four evangelists, painted on can¬ 
vass. In 1561, an attack was made on this church by 
some Calvinists, after hearing a sermon in a neighbouring 
house. Several of the congregation were killed, and much 
damage done. In 1727, the Abbe Paris was buried in the 
cemetery, and in 1730 the Convulsionists commenced their 
exhibitions here (1). The advocate Patru, tiie French Quinti¬ 
lian, and Nicole, the moralist, were buried here. The rue 
Mouffetard here crosses the small stream of the Bievre (see 
p. 26). Its muddy and unwholesome waters are of great 
value to the tanners and dyers of this quarter, established 
here from time immemorial. 

In the rue de l’Arbalete, we see, at No. 9, the Botanical 
Garden of the 

£cole de Pharmacie. —The establishment itself is at No. 
21, and occupies the site of an ancient convent, called 
Ilopital de Lourcine. The first botanical garden in France 
was formed in the grounds of this convent in 1580, 
on the model of that of Padua. There is a cabinet of speci¬ 
mens of all kinds of drugs, with a select mineralogical collection, 
well worthy of inspection; also a small but select library, 
open daily to the public from 10 to 3. Underneath is the hall 
of meeting, containing some interesting portraits of French phy¬ 
sicians. It is visible everyday except Sunday (seep. 135 ). 

At No. 15, rue des Capucins, is the 

(l) The Convulsionists were a set of fanatics of the Jansenist 
party, who, after the death of the Abb<5 Paris, celebrated for his 
resistance to the Bull Unigenitus, and for his charity, used to 
frequent his tomb, where they feigned convulsions which were 
attributed to miraculous agency. This superstition spread with 
such rapidity, that the Government was at length, in 1732, 
obliged to interfere, and order the cemetery to be closed. This 
measure called forth the following epigram, which was found 
inscribed on the gate. 

De par le roi, defense a Dicn 

De laire miracle en ce lieu. 




OBSERVATOIRE. 415 

Hopital du Midi. —This building was erected by the Ca¬ 
puchin friars, and occupied as a monastery till 17 84 ; it was 
then converted into an hospital for nurses and new-born infants 
affected with syphilitic complaints. In 17 92 adults of both 
sexes were admitted, but subsequently the sexes were sepa¬ 
rated, and females were sent to another hospital, the Lourcine 
(see p. 140). To visit the hospital, apply to the Director. 

The new Boulevard re Port-Royal, which has caused 
many a filthy street to disappear, here skirts the 
Maison d’Accouciiement (see p. 135). 

In the rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, at No. 47, is the 
Hopital Cochin, founded by M. Cochin, the benevolent 
rector of St. Jacques du Ilaut Pas, in 1780. It was intended 
for his own parishioners; but patients, of the same classes as 
those of the Hotel Dieu, are now received from all parts of 
the capital (see p. 140.) The building is Doric, and consists 
of a main body with three pavilions. At No. 57 in the rue 
du Faubourg St. Jacques is the convent of the Dames de St. 
Joseph, and at No. 7 1, a convent of Capuchins. Owing to 
the lowering of the street, these edifices are now accessible 
by temporary stairs. 

1 The rue Mechain leads to the rue de la Sante, where, at 
No. 29, we find a convent of the Dames Augustines du Sacre 
1 Cocur, erected at a cost of two millions of francs. Besides a 
boarding-school for young ladies, this convent also has accom¬ 
modation for female invalids, who are attended here as in a 
1 Maison de Sante. Nearly opposite is the new 

Prison des Madelonnettes (see p. 77).—This edifice 
covers a space of 25,000 square metres, and is partly 
. arranged, like the Prison Mazas (see p. 75), on the cellular 
system for prisoners under trial, and partly on the old system 
for persons condemned to imprisonment for a term not ex- 
| ceeding one year. It is calculated to contain 500 prisoners 
. of each category, and has cost 6,000,000 fr. 

This prison is skirted by the new 

Boulevard Arago, extending from the old Barriere 
d’Enfer to the Boulevard St. Marcel, which meets the 
Boulevard de Port-Royal, above-mentioned. 

Returning to the rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, the rue 
P Cassini, to our right, brings us to the 

Observatoire, adjoining the rue d’Enfer.—Upon the esta- 
2, blishment of the Academy of Sciences in the reign of Louis 
i ; XIV., Claude Perrault was charged by Colbert to prepare a 
of design for this edifice, which was begun in 1667, and finished 
in 1672. When the building was already far advanced, John 
Dominic Cassini, the astronomer, whom Colbert had sent for 




416 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

from Bologna, came to Paris. He found *tfie structure so ill 
adapted to its purpose, that, at his suggestion, several altera¬ 
tions were made, which, however, did not render it suitable 
for taking accurate observations. The principal pile forms a 
parallelogram of 90 feet by 82, to which have been added on 
the south two lateral octagonal towers. In the north front 
is a projection of 24 feet from which the building is en¬ 
tered. The platform on the top is 85 feet from the ground. 
The whole building is of stone, neither wood nor iron 
having been used. The principal part of this edifice being 
found useless, a low building has been erected on the 
east, in which nearly all the observations are made. This 
is so placed that two sides are parallel, and two perpen¬ 
dicular, to a meridian line traced on the floor of a room on 
the second story, from which French astronomers count 
their longitude; its direction is marked by an obelisk at Mont¬ 
martre, distant nearly three English miles and a half from the 
Observatory. On this line, between Dunkirk and Barcelona, 
the observations were made for determining the length of the 
arc of the terrestrial meridian between the equator and pole, 
now fixed at 5,130,740 toises. (1) The line of the southern 
front is taken as the latitude of Paris. This observatory is the 
centre from whence have diverged the several trigonometrical 
calculations for forming the map of France, known as la Carte 
de Cassini, or de l’Observatoire, in 182 sheets. Underneath 
the building are some subterranean chambers, now no longer 
used, which were originally constructed for making astrono¬ 
mical observations, by means of openings through the roof of 
the edifice, for experiments on gravitation, Sec. On the first 
floor is a telescope 22 feet in length, and 2 2 inches in diameter, 
not now used; there is also an achromatic telescope of large 
dimensions. Here also we see a marble statue of Cassini, who 
died in 1712, aged 87, and another very fine one of Laplace, 
the celebrated astronomer, by Garraud. The collection of 
modern telescopes and astronomical instruments of all kinds 
attached to this institution is exceedingly good. On the 
second floor is a spacious room, containing globes, various 
magnetic instruments, the meridian line upon the floor, a 
mural quadrant, 8cc. On the floor of another room is a map 
of the world, engraved by Chazelles and Sedileau, and on 
the roof there is an anemometer, which indicates the direction 
of the wind, on a dial-plate in one of the rooms. There are 
also two rain-gauges, for ascertaining the quantity of rain 
which falls at Paris during the year. The eastern tower is co- 

(l) The ten-millionth part of this length has been adopted for 
the metre, or standard linear measure in France. 








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a 

j 

j 

■i ■ 

i 

Is 

ie 

is 


a 

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tn 

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HOSPICE DES ENFANS ASSISTS. 417 

vered with an immense rotatory cupola of copper, by means 
of which the observer may point the great equatorial it con¬ 
tains to any part of the heavens under shelter. Smaller 
ones of similar construction cover two little turrets on the 
roof, and a telescope of the largest dimensions has now been 
set up in the western tower. The number of steps leading 
to the roof is 162. A well-selected library of 45,000 volumes, 
for the use of the professors and observers, is attached to the 
establishment. The building on the east is entered from the 
first floor of the principal structure, and contains various 
instruments. The roof of this small building, and of the 
cupola of the upper platform, opens in various parts, by means 
of simple mechanical arrangements. The Bureau des Longitudes 
holds its sittings here (see p. 91.) The Observatory is sur¬ 
rounded by a terrace, according to the original plan of Perrault, 
and the outer court enclosed by railings and pavilions. In one 
of the wings added to the main building is an amphitheatre for 
800 persons, where the celebrated Arago used to give his 
popular lectures on astronomy every year. This establish¬ 
ment is visible upon application in writing for a ticket to 
M. le Directeur de VObservatoire. A wide avenue leads 
straight from the Observatoire to the garden of the Luxembourg. 

Next door to the Observatory, there is a reservoir for 
water, deserving of a visit from the antiquarian. The stranger 
on descending a few steps will see four vaulted chambers with 
reservoirs receiving water from Arcueil. Part of the vaulting 
is of Roman construction; the more modern parts and the chqef 
conduit date from Marie de Medicis, who laid the first stone 
with great ceremony in 1624. The largest chamber of this 
reservoir has 7 8 arches; it is 31 metres by 30, and contains 
1395 cubic metres of water (307,034 gallons). In the entrance 
court may be seen some fragments of water-pipes of Roman 
construction. A small fee is expected by the keeper. 

In the rue d’Enfer, we see, at No. 74, the 

Hospice des Enfans Assistes, or Orphan and Found¬ 
ling Asylum, founded by St. Vincent de Paule in 1638. 
In 1667, on a decree of the Parlement, the managers 
erected the Hospice des Orphelins in the Faubourg St. An¬ 
toine, and placed the Enfants Trouves at the corner of the 
Parvis Notre Dame. At the revolution of 17 89, the latter were 
removed to their present house, formerly the Convent of the 
Pretres de FOratoire. At the same time the ancient abbey of 
Port Royal, now a lying-in hospital, was appropriated to the 
same purposes (see p. 119). The buildings are plain, but airy 
and comfortable. There is a statue of St. Vincent de Paule, 
by Stouf, in the court. A little beyond is the 


27 







4 18 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

Infirmerie de Marie Tii^rLse, 116, rue d’Enfer, for an 
account of which, see page 122. 

Returning northwards, we perceive, facing the Boulevard 
Montparnasse, and close to the gardens of the Closerie dcs Lilas 
(see p. 481), the statue of the unfortunate MarshalNey, erected 
on the spot where he was shot, and inaugurated with great so¬ 
lemnity on the 7th of December, 1853, the anniversary of his 
execution, in the presence of Prince Napoleon and the high func¬ 
tionaries of State. It stands on a pedestal of white marble, 
richly sculptured by Gisors. On the faces of the pedestals are 
engraven the names of the battles at which the hero distin¬ 
guished himself. The artist, M. Rude, has represented the 
illustrious marshal in an attitude of command, animating his 
followers to advance; hut the open mouth, which in this case 
completely distorts the features, is an unfortunate circumstance. 

Striking into the rue du Yal de Grace, further on, No. 65, 
rue d’Enfer, next to the corner to our left, is the Couvent des 
Dames Carmelites, where Mile, de la Valliere, the beautiful 
mistress of Louis XIV., took the veil in 167 5, as Sceur Louisede 
la Misericords, and was soon joined by Madame deMontespan. 
In the chapel is seen a fine marble monument of Cardinal 
Berulle, founder of the convent. He is represented kneeling on 
a pedestal adorned with bas-reliefs. In a recess to the left 
there is another valuable bas-relief in marble, by Barrois, re¬ 
presenting a Descent from the Cross. The best paintings are : 
a Virgin and Child, St. Joseph and Jesus, Christ hearing the 
Lamb, by Guet, and an Annunciation, by Mueller. This chapel, 
said to have been founded by Robert, the son of Hugh Capet, 
has now been decorated in the Byzantine style. 

At the opposite end of the rue du Val de Grace stands the 

HopitalMilitairedu Val de Grace, 277, rue St. Jacques. 
This hospital, established by Napoleon I. in the buildings of 
a convent of Benedictine nuns, is one of the most important in 
Paris. Attached to it is a military school of medicine and sur¬ 
gery. A quadrangular court is entered by a railing facing the 
street; the sides are adorned with ten triangular pediments sup¬ 
ported by columns of irregular Doric design. To the left is the 
bronze statue of Baron Larrey, the celebrated surgeon, on a 
pedestal of white marble, adorned with four bas-reliefs of the 
same metal, representing the battles of la Beresina, the Pyra¬ 
mids, Austerlitz, and Sommo Sierra, where Larrey distinguished 
himself. The statue, which is 9 feet high, represents Larrey 
resting against a howitzer, on which are placed some of his 
works. In his right hand he holds Napoleon’s will opened at 
the words : “ I leave 100,000 fr.to the Surgeon-in-chief Larrey, 
the most virtuous man 1 know.” This monument is by David 




CHURCH T)U VAL BE GRACE. 419 

d’Angers. In the second court there is a fine statue of the 
celebrated surgeon Broussais, who is interred here. The 
chief object of historical interest here is 

The Church of Val de Grace, in front of the principal 
court, and founded by Anne of Austria, the consort of Louis 
XIII. Having been married 22 years without issue, she made 
avow that she would build a church at Yal de Grace, if her 
desire to give an heir to the throne should be realised. At 
length, on Sept. G, 1638, she gave birth to a prince, afterwards 
Louis XIV. Alter the death of Louis XIII. the queen prepared 
to fulfil her vow. In 1G24 she laid the first stone of the con¬ 
vent, contributing one-half of the expense, and caused the 
Benedictine nuns of Val Profond, near Bievre le Ghatel, three 
leagues from Paris, to be transferred hither. On April 1, 164 5, 
Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the church with great pomp. 
The architects were successively the elder Mansard, who fur¬ 
nished the designs, Lemercier, Le Muet and Leduc. Ma¬ 
demoiselle de la Yalliere retired to this convent, previous to 
her taking the vows, this convent being then the fashionable 
retreat for members of the nobility of France. During the re¬ 
volution of 17 89 the church was converted into a depot for 
the materiel of military hospitals, and thus escaped the fury 
of the populace. In 1826, it was repaired, and restored to 
divine worship. It is an edifice of magnificent design, 
with a dome resting on a lofty drum, strengthened around 
by buttresses, adorned with Composite pilasters, and 
pierced with sixteen windows; four campaniles, or small 
bell-turrets, stand out from the gallery on which the 
dome rests. The front is ornamented with a portico of Co¬ 
rinthian columns supporting a pediment; above is a range of 
Composite engaged columns bearing a second pediment. The 
entrance is approached by a flight of J&VgO and wide steps. 
The plan of the church is that of a Latin cross; in the nave 
the public used to attend service, and in the other parts were 
chapels for the nuns of the convent and for the ladies of the 
Court. The intersection of the cross is circular, four lofty 
arches open into the transepts. The nave is flanked by cLapeiX 
communicating with each other, now devoid of alta»s> excep- 
one in the apsis, where the altar-piece is an Ascension. The 
decorations of this, as well as the other parts of the church, 
are Corinthian; the sculptures are by Anguier. In the spaadriTs 
of the arches of the nave are large figures in allo-rilfcw, re¬ 
presenting the Christian Virtues, and the vaulting of the ce3ti»:g 
presents rich compartments, filled with figuresof saints and sciroM 
work. The pendentives of the lower dome contain circuiar 
compartments, in which are fine alti-rilievi of the f'jur fiya*** 




420 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

gelists. The vault of the dome is admirably painted on stone 
by Mignard, and has been reputed as one of the finest frescoes 
in France. Around the frieze below the gallery is the follow¬ 
ing inscription : A. MDCL. Anna Austrice D. G. Franco- 
rum Regina Regnique rectrix, cui subjecit Deus omnes hostes 
utconderet Domum in nomine suo. The high altar is sur¬ 
mounted by a magnificent canopy, supported by six fluted 
spiral columns of grey marble, with bases, capitals, and foliage 
of bronze gilt. Four angels placed on the entablature of the 
columns hold censers, and from palm-branches are suspended 
other angels, with scrolls bearing inscriptions. The whole is 
terminated by a globe and cross. In front of'the altar, and 
in the intersection of the cross, the letters A. L. (Anne- 
Louis) are inlaid in the pavement, which here, as well as 
throughout the whole of the edifice, is formed of rich marbles. 
The chapels for the nuns are separated from the rest of the 
building by iron gratings, and in that behind the altar, 
which is a beautiful piece of architecture, a crimson curtain 
screened the superiors of the convent from the view of the 
congregation. In one of these chapels, formerly the oratory 
of Anne d’Autriche, whose bust is seen on the ceiling held by 
an Angel, are frescoes representing views from Spain. In the 
northern chapel of the cross is the entrance to a vault where 
the remains of the abbesses were deposited, on marble shelves. 
Here also is shown a cabinet, where the hearts of the Bourbon 
family were preserved encased in silver, a custom originating 
from the foundress having bequeathed her heart to this church. 
The remains of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles I. of England, 
were placed here. During the revolution all these silver 
hearts were carried off, except one, discovered afterwards, and 
now visible to strangers ; the prince or princess to whom it 
belonged is unknown. The heart of Baron Larrey is also pre¬ 
served here in a casket. Adjoining this chapel there is a 
small door, which conceals the confessional used by Mile, de 
la Yalliere ; it consists of a grated window, through which 
she spoke to the priest, and is accessible from a passage be¬ 
hind, from which the building she occupied at that time may 
be seen. The nuns were buried underneath the nave, in 
a vault, the entrance of which is near the western door. 
The church is open every day, between 12 and 2, and the 
vaults, See., are shown by a military attendant. 

Further northward, at No. 254, is the 

Institution Imperials des Sourds Muets. —For this insti¬ 
tution France is indebted to the celebrated Abbe de l’Epee, who, 
without patronage, and with a fortune not exceeding £500 a- 
year, undertook to maintain and bring up at his own expense 


INSTITUTION IMPER1ALE DES SOURDS-MUETS. 421 

more than 40 deaf and dumb pupils, whom he instructed to 
read and write, to comprehend all the difficulties of grammar, 
and to reduce the most abstract metaphysical ideas to writing. 
The Abbe de l’Epee was first brought into notice by the Em¬ 
peror Joseph II. on his visit to the French capital in 1777. His 
sister, Queen Marie Antoinette, soon after visited the school, 
and the institution was ordered to be transferred by Govern¬ 
ment to a convent of Gelestins, which had been suppressed. 
This, however, was not carried into effect till 17 85. The Abbe 
de l’Epee, dying in 1790, was succeeded by the Abbe Sicard, 
who improved the system of instruction. During the revolu 
tion of 17 89 this institution was transferred to the buildings 
of the Seminaire de St. Magloire, rue St. Jacques, where it still 
continues. In the first court there is a tree planted in 1006, 
under Henry IV. The number of gratuitous pupils is 80 ; be¬ 
sides 10 admitted to half-pensions, and lo to three-quarter pen¬ 
sions. At present there are 120 male and 7 5 female pupils. The 
number of boarders is unlimited. To be admitted gratuitously 
into the institution, the child must be full 7 years old, and not 
exceed 15, and must present a certificate iVom the authorities 
of his or her parish, of age, baptism, Aaccination, being really 
deaf and dumb, and without the means of paying for educa¬ 
tion. The boys and girls are in separate schools, where they 
remain six years, and are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, 
drawing, engraving, or some trade. The terms for boarders 
are 1,000 fr. a-year, besides 300 fr. paid on entering. From 
90,000 fr. to 100,000 fr. are annually devoted by government 
to the support of this institution. The Salle des Exercices is 
Doric, and adorned with the busts of the Abbes de l’Epee and 
Sicard, and that of the Emperor, with a fine picture of de l’Epee, 
by the donor, M. Camus. It represents the Abbe de l’Epee em¬ 
bracing the young Count de Toulouse, at the moment when the 
latter, Who was deaf and dumb and had been educated out of cha¬ 
rity by the Abbe, recognizes the house of his relative, who had 
wilfully abandoned him. The refectories, dormitories, &c., 
are large and airy, and arranged as in the institution des Jeu- 
nes Aveugles (see p. 335). A garden is annexed to the esta¬ 
blishment. The chapel is Doric; behind the altar is a re¬ 
markable oil-painting by Vernet, of Christ healing a deaf 
shepherd, and to the left is a picture of good execution by 
Peyson, a deaf and dumb artist, representing the Abbe de l’Epee 
on his deathbed. The figure seated next to the death-bed is the 
Abbe Sicard, and the young man in front represents one Antoine 
Dubois, who died in 1850, aged 93, having lived continually 
here, in virtue of the will of the Abbede l’Epee whose pupil he 
was. The trades taught here ave shoemaking, tailoring, turn- 





422 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

ing, joinery, .and lithography. But the visitor will be more 
particularly interested by the method by which the pupils 
are taught not only to speak, but also to understand what is 
said. The professor takes one pupil at a time, while the 
others attend to what he does. He first pronounces each 
vowel, clearly expressing by the motion of his mouth the me¬ 
chanism by which it is produced Tiie pupil endeavours to 
imitate him, and at length pronounces it. He is then shown 
the letter to which it corresponds. Occasionally the professor 
puls his fingers into the pupil’s mouth, to shape it into the 
proper form for pronunciation. In a higher class, the pro¬ 
fessor speaks slowly, so that the pupil may catch the form of 
his mouth at each syllable. Thus a question, at the choice of 
the visitor, is asked, understood, and answered in words, 
which are generally much better articulated than might he 
expected. Admission on Saturdays, from 2 to 4, with 
tickets, to be had on the spot. (!). 

Close to this establishment is the church of 

St. Jacques du Haut-Pas, 2 52, rue St-Jacques.—On this 
site a chapel, dependent on the hospital du Ilaut Pas, existed 
in the 14th century. The present structure was begun in 
1G30, the first stone being laid by Gaston of Orleans, brother 
of Louis XIII. When the choir was built, the works were sus¬ 
pended, but were resumed in 167 5, by the munificence of Anne 
de Bourbon, Duchcsse de Longueville, and terminated in 1684. 
The architecture of this church is Doric ; the plan slightly cruci¬ 
form ; the choir ends in a semicircle, and a single aisle surrounds 
both nave and choir. The right aisle alone is flanked by cha¬ 
pels ; the opposite one of the nave has none. The 1st chapel in 
the former contains the font. In the 2d is a Holy Family, by 
Delanoe, and a good Virgin and Child on wood, of the 15th 
century. Close to it, in the aisle, there is an Annuncia¬ 
tion. In the transept is a fine Entombment, by Degeorges; 
and against the piers of the entrance to the choir are two 
plaster statues, one of St. Philip, by Grienewald, the other St. 
James, by Foyatier. In the choir, over the sacristy door, is 
the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple. Next follow, 
1st chapel, St. John the Baptist, by Vetter. 2d, the Saviour 
blessing the world. 3d, St. Philip preaching to the Phry¬ 
gians, by Jacquard, and the same appearing to Theodosius, by 
Coutan. 4th, St. Philip presenting Nathaniel to Jesus, by llol- 
feld, and the Miracle of the loaves and fishes, by Champmartin. 
The 5th is the Lady Chapel, of elliptical form, with a tine 
statue of the Virgin and Child; a Visitation and an Annuii- 

(i) There are 22,000 deaf and dumb in all France, of whom 
l2,:joo are males, and 9,u0 0 females. 




ECOLE NORMALS. 423 

ciation, both by Bouterweck, and four small paintings by 
Barret; St. Joseph with Jesus in his arms, St. Louis, St. 
James, and St. Catherine. 6th, Jesus Christ appearing to St. 
James, by Goyet, and his Calling of St. James and Judas, by 
Lestang. 7th, the Lapidation of St. James, and St. James as 
Bishop of Jerusalem, by Jonquieres. 8th, St. Magloire, by 
Goyet, and a shrine containing his relics. 9th, Jesus healing 
the step-mother of St. Peter, by Calvaert; Religion, Hope, 
Faith, and Charity, in four tableaux, by Lesueur, a St. Peter, 
by Restout (17 28), and a Sinite Parvulos, by Gerard, loth, 
Ste. Genevieve by Carbillet. A good Crucifixion and the 
altar-piece, by Maillot ; the Vision of St. Jacques on being 
precipitated from a tower, will be seen in the left transept. 
In the five windows of the apsis are the figures of saints 
in modern stained glass. Cassini, the astronomer, was 
buried here, and the learned La Hire; Cochin, rector of the 
parish, and founder of the hospital, &c. 

At No. 193, is the Convent of the Dames de St. Michel. The 
church has a Doric facade of some merit. On the same side of 
the street were the convents of the Ursulines and the Feuillan- 
tines; and between the latter and the Convent of the Valde 
Grace was a house of English Benedictines, where part of the 
remains of James II. were buried, he having bequeathed his 
head, heart, and intestines to the British Colleges. 

Retracing our steps, the rue des Ursulines will lead us to 
the rue d’Ulm. At No. 45 is the 

Ecole Normale. — This extensive building, finished in 
1847, is entered by a spacious court fronted by a projecting 
pavilion, through which the visitor passes by a Doric vesti¬ 
bule into a large inner court. The architecture is in Hie style 
of the last century. Over the principal entrance are statues 
representing Science and Literature; and thejbrackets on the 
walls of the inner court support the busts* of the eminent 
men formed by the Ecole Normale since its institution in 1795. 
The number of pupils is about 80. Spacious corridors lead 
to the lecture-rooms, cabinets of botany, zoology, fossils and 
mineralogy, natural philosophy, and laboratory of chemistry. 
The library, on the first floor, is aspacious saloon, containing 
20,000 volumes. The Salle de Reception is somewhat smaller, 
and contains the portraits, in medallions, of Lagrange, 
Laplace, Daily, Daubenton, Monge, Berthollet, Bernardin de 
St. Pierre, Suard, Garat, and Laharpe, who were the first 
professors of this celebrated school at the time of its opening, 
July 17, 1795. The chapel is on the ground floor to the 
west; it contains a fine Saviour by Lavcrgne. The dormitories 
occupy the second story; the refectories, two in number, are 









424 SEVENTEENTH WALK. 

on the ground floor to the north; under-ground are the kit¬ 
chens, cellars, &c It has cost 2 millions of francs, (see p. 
96). Strangers are not generally admitted. 

In the rue de la Vieille Estrapade, at No. 16, the visitor will 
find the entrance to a reservoir receiving water from the 
artesian well of Grenelle for the use of the Faubourg St. Mar- 
ceau. It has two receptacles, each 98 feet by 50, and 15 
feet deep, in all 147,000 cubic feet of water. A third reservoir 
is constructed under it, to receive the water from Arcueil. That 
from Grenelle is at 61 degrees Fahrenheit when itarrives here. 

Turning to the right we shall find, at No. 5, rue des 
Irlandais, the 

College des Irlandais, a commodious building, forming 
three sides of a spacious quadrangle planted with trees. On 
the ground-floor of the right wing is the chapel, built by 
Bellanger, in 17 80. It has a marble statue of the Virgin on 
the altar, and right and left paintings of St. Patrick, and St. 
Bridget. In a vault beneath repose the ashes of several dis¬ 
tinguished Irish; above the chapel there is the library. It is 
said that James II. bequeathed his intestines to this college, 
but no monument remains to indicate the spot where they were 
deposited. This institution is under the superintendence of the 
Minister of the Interior, and conducted by an administrator, 
four professors of morals and of dogmatic theology, of philoso¬ 
phy, of classics, and about loo Irish students, of whom about 
2 5 priests graduate annually. A great number of bursarships 
belong to this college, of which Dr. M‘Namara is the director. 

Turning to the left into the rue des Postes, we see at No. 
30 the 

SEminaire du St. Esprit. —This building was erected in 
17 69, for a seminary, which was suppressed in 1792, and 
restored in 1815. It has a fine bas-relief above the pediment 
of the church, representing a missionary preaching, (see 
p. 113.) It contains some tolerable pictures. 

Next door to this was the College des Anglais, a seminary 
established by letters patent granted by Louis XIV., in 1684, 
which authorised Catholics, who could not be educated for the 
priesthood in England, to live in an ecclesiastical community. 
The house, suppressed in 1792, is now let for secular purposes. 

At No. 42, further down, is the elegant building of the 
College Rollin (see p. loo). 


HALLE AUX VINS. 


425 


EI0-HTEE1TTH IT A LZ. 

This walk comprises the remainder of the 5th arrondisse- 
menl. Commencing it from the rue St. Victor, the first 
object of interest we meet with is the 
IIalle auxVins. —TheParis wine-market, established in 1656 , 
beyond the Porte St. Bernard, had long been found insufficient 
for the commerce of the capital, when Napoleon ordered the 
construction of one much more extensive upon the site of the 
celebrated Abbey of St. Victor. The first stone was laid oil 
August 15, 1813. The works, carried on at first with 
great activity, were relaxed during 1815 and two following 
years, but have since been finished. The ground on which the 
Halle aux Vins is constructed measures 441,700 metres (109 
English acresl, and it consists of 5 streets, 2 large yards, 63 
fountains, and 444 cellars and warehouses, capable of con¬ 
taining 4 50,000 casks of wine. 80,000 of brandy, and 3,000 
of olive oil. It is inclosed by a wall on three sides, and towards 
the quay is fenced by an iron railing nearly 800 metres in 
length. The streets are called after the different wine coun¬ 
tries, viz.:— rue de Champagne, rue de Bourgogne, rue de 
Bordeaux, rue de Languedoc, and rue de la Cote-d’Or. On the 
side next the quay are offices for those who superintend the 
entrance and departure of wines, and a great number of mer¬ 
chants’ counting-houses. In the back-ground is a warehouse 
appropriated to spirits, and constructed without either wood or 
iron. In the halle there is also a bureau de depotage, con¬ 
taining gauges of the casks of the different parts of France ; 
and purchasers of casks may have them measured here. Wines 
entering this depot do not pay the octroi duty until they are 
sold out of it; but, so long as they remain in bond, the 
owners pay warehouse-rent, &c. The number of casks that 
enter in one day is frequently 1,500. The halle is open from 
6 to 6 in summer; and from 7 to 5 in winter. A quantity 
of inferior wines is always on the wharf opposite. 

On the Place St. Victor, Nos. 24 and 26, with their elabo¬ 
rate sculpture and historical medallions, will attract attention. 
At the corner of the rues St. Victor and Cuvier, is the 
Fontaine Cuvier, or du Jardin des Plantes. —This fountain 
replaces one built in 17 61, after the designs of Bernini, against 
one of the boundary towers of the enclosure of the Abbey St. 
Victor of the 15th century, which remained entire (the only 
relic of the old Abbey) till lately. The present fountain was 
planned by M. A. Vigoureux, the architect, and is dedicated 
to the illustrious savant whose name is thus inscribed over th? 



426 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

entablature— “A Georges Cuvier . ” The ornaments of this 
monument are very elaborate. It is composed of a lofty half¬ 
circular pedestal, supporting two Ionic columns, between 
which a female figure seated on a lion represents the genius of 
Natural History, with an owl at her side; above is an eagle 
with a lamb in its talons. In her left hand she holds a 
tablet, on which are inscribed the words “ Rerum cognoscere 
causas,” and at her feet are a number of marine and land animals. 
The volutes of the capitals of the columns are made up of spiral 
shells, cleverly arranged ; the entablature and spandrils of the 
arch are sculptured in the same taste. The band of the pe¬ 
destal is sculptured with heads of men and of animals. Water 
issues from the mouths of three lizards placed around the 
pedestal, and falls into a semicircular iron basin. MM. Feu- 
cheres and Pomaratau were the sculptors. 

Opposite to this there is one of the entrances to the Jardin 
cles Plantes (see next page), and at No. 1, rue Lacepede, the 
IIopital pe la Pitie.— Founded in 1612 ; its chapel is 
dedicated to Notre Dame de la Pitie. From its foundation until 
1 809 it was used as an asylum for orphan children (see p. 189). 
Strangers are admitted from 10 to 12 on applying to the 
Director. The chapel contains five pictures by Lecerf. 

The rues Lacepede and de la Clef lead to 
Ste. Pelagie, the prison for political offenders (see p. 
78), which is entered by theme du Puits de FHermite. 

The rue du Pout-aux-Biches, in a line with the rue de la 
Clef, skirts the new 

Halle aux Cluks, occupying a space of 30,000 sq. metres. 
In the Place Scipion, hard by, we see the 
Boulangerie Generale, or Maison Scipion. —Under the 
reign of Henry III., a rich Italian, named Scipion Sardini, built 
an hotel on this spot, which was purchased in 1622, to form an 
asylum for aged and infirm men. In 1636, it was given to 
the IIopital delaSalpetriere for its slaughter-house, bake-house, 
2cc. It now forms a general bake-house for all the hospitals 
and hospices. All the work generally done by hand is done 
here by steam, and by the same agency corn is ground here 
by 12 mills. The best hour for visiting this establishment is 
between 12 and 1, when every department is in full activity. 
At No. 17, in the rue du Fer a Moulin, east of this, is the 
Amphitheatre of Anatomy, an establishment of anatomical 
schools, built on the site of the ancient cemetery of Clamart, 
which has long ceased to be a place of burial (see p. 134). It 
consists of a large square garden enclosed by an open gal¬ 
lery, a building with lecture rooms opposite, and four vast 
dissecting halls forming the other two sides of the quadrangle. 



JARDIN DES PLANTES. 427 

Each of those halls lias 24 stone tables along the walls, co>- 
vered with zinc. Four pupils dissect at each table, so that 
90 bodies may be under dissection at once. Upwards o£ 
4,000 bodies are dissected annually. The ventilation is excellent. 
Adjoining the garden, to the right, was the 

Cimetiere DE Ste. Catherine. —It had been closed since- 
1815, and the only interesting monument it contained was. 
that erected to General Pichegru, who was interred here in 
1804, and who, as the reader will recollect, was implicated 
in a conspiracy against Napoleon. The body has been now 
removed to Arbois (Jura) by the relatives. 

The new Boulevard St. Marcel, which has absorbed the- 
ground of this cemetery, connects the Boulevard Arago and 
rue Mouffetard with the Boulevard dc l’Hopital. 

Further on, and opposite to the rue Geoffroy St. Hilaire,, 
there is a fountain commemorating the revolution of 1830. It 
bears no inscription, but is still flanked by two trees of li¬ 
berty dating from 1848. A little higher up, we find to our 
left the principal entrance to the Museum d'Histoire Natu¬ 
relike, or, as it is more popularly called, the 

Jardin des Plantes. —At the solicitation of Herouard and 
Guy de la Brosse, his physicians, Louis XIII. founded the 
Jardin des Plantes, in 1035. Several distinguished men, among 
whom may be reckoned the names of Duvernoy, Tournefort, 
Yaillant, Bernard de Jussieu, and Cysternay du Fay, contributed 
greatly to the prosperity of the establishment, previously to the 
appointment of Buffon, in 17 39, to the functions of superin¬ 
tendent. That celebrated naturalist devoted himself perse- 
veringly to the interest of the garden , and before his death, in 
1788, the names of Daubenton, Anthony de Jussieu, Winslow, 
A. Petit, Faujas de St. Fond, Van Spaendonck, Desfontaines, 
Fourcroy, and Portal, shed lustre on the establishment. At 
the revolution of 17 89, the universities, the faculties of medi¬ 
cine, law, &c., being suppressed, it was doubtful whether this 
Garden would not be involved in the general proscription; 
but, as it was considered national property, it was respected. 
During the Reign of Terror, and up to the Consulate, the insti¬ 
tution was much neglected, and had deteriorated from want of 
funds. But on Bonaparte’s arriving at the head of affairs a new 
impulse was given, and the only subsequent check which it 
received was in 1814 and 1815, when it was apprehended that 
the foreign troops who occupied Paris would destroy the 
garden; by a special convention it was however protected 
from all injury. The magnificent cabinet of the Stadtholdcr 
was claimed, but it was afterwards agreed that an equivalent 
should be furnished from the duplicates of the museum. Se- 


428 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

veral valuable gems were returned to the Pope, and many 
objects of natural history and books belonging to emigrants 
-restored. Since that time, however, the support of this mu¬ 
seum has been munificently provided for by the State. It is 
under the control of the Minister of the Interior, who every 
five years appoints a director and deputy-director out of a 
list of three names presented to him by the professors of the 
establishment. Its income and expenditure are managed by an 
accountant-general, and it is annually subjected to an inspec¬ 
tion by a commission appointed by the Minister conjointly 
with the professors. It consists of, 1st, a botanical garden, 
with spacious hot-houses and green-houses ; 2d, several gal¬ 
leries of zoology, botany, and mineralogy ; 3d, a menagerie of 
living animals; 4th, a library of natural history; and 5th, 
an amphitheatre, with laboratories, &.C., for public lectures 
on every branch of natural history. The lectures, which are 
all public and gratuitous, commence in April and last till the 
end of Autumn. The days and hours of admission are to be 
learnt from the notices posted on the doors of the amphitheatre, 
nr at the bureau of the establishment, where information upon 
all points is readily given. The whole establishment has cost 
upwards of 4,000,000 fr. (see page 95). (1) 

Garden .—On entering the garden from the rue Geoffroy St. 
Hilaire, the first building facing that street is the gallery of zoo¬ 
logy; the edifice to the right contains the library, and the mine- 
ralogical and botanical collections; to the left are spacious hot¬ 
houses, the menagerie, and the gallery of comparative anatomy. 
The intermediate space is flanked by two parallel avenues of 
lime and chesnut-trees. Bordering on the rue Buffon is a nur¬ 
sery of forest-trees, surrounded by an iron railing, and con¬ 
tiguous to it, two beds appropriated to such foreign perennial 
plants as bear exposure to the winter of this climate. Near 
these is a cafe, for the accommodation of visitors; here but 
a short time ago there stood an acacia, being the first brought 
over to Europe in 1635, by Vespasien Robin, gardener to 
Louis XIII. Between the avenues are large enclosures, forming' 
the “Botanical Garden” and part of the “School of 
Botany.” It covers a surface of 267,620 square metres, and is 
carefully arranged; the visitor may at once know the nature 
of the various plants by the colours of the tickets; the red 
denote medicinal, the green alimentary plants; the blue those 
used in the arts, the yellow ornamental, and the hlac& poi- 

(l) The annual expenses of lids establishment amount 
to 582,380 fr., viz., salaries, 308,380 fr.; travelling expenses, 
p,ooo fr. \ stock, 3t9,ooo fr, 


JARDIN DES PLANTES. 429 

Sonous plants. It is open from 3 to 5 every day. To the west 
a sunk enclosure presents in summer a splendid display of 
flowering shrubs. Between the conservatories is a path leading; 
to two mounds. One, called the labyrinth, from its intricate' 
paths, is of a conical shape. On the ascent is a cedar of Le¬ 
banon, the first seen in France, which Collinson, an English phy¬ 
sician, presented to the garden in 1734; it was planted here, 
the year following, by the elder Jussieu, and now measures. 
11 feet English in circumference at 6 feet from the ground.. 
At the top of the hill the visitor will find a pavilion, entirely 
of cast bronze, with seats, from which a view extends 
over the garden, the greater part of Paris, and the distant land¬ 
scape in the directions of Montmartre, Vincennes, and Sceaux. 
One of the pillars has a sun-dial, in reference to which the 
cornice bears the inscription : Horas non numero nisi serenas. 
On the eastern slope is a small inclosure, in the centre of which 
a granite column, resting on a base of different minerals, marks, 
the grave of Daubenton. The western hill is a nursery of fir- 
trees, nearly all the known species being planted on its slope. 
At the foot of it is a spacious enclosure, containing during fine 
weather, some of the most beautiful trees of New Holland, the' 
Cape of Good Hope, and the Coast of Barbary, which are then 
removed from the green-houses. Opposite this stands the am¬ 
phitheatre, holding 1,200 persons ; the various courses of lec¬ 
tures given here are annually attended by about 1,800 stu¬ 
dents ; a practical chemical laboratory is attached to it. At 
the door of the amphitheatre stand in summer two Sicilian; 
palms, 25 feet in height, presented to Louis XIV. The< 
buildings adjoining contain the residences of the administra¬ 
tors and professors ; to the left a gate opens here into* 
the rue Cuvier, and to the right a path leads to the Conser¬ 
vatories, built many years ago by M. R. de Fleury, on are 
improved plan. They are of iron, and one of them is 
entirely devoted to aquatic plants. The Garden of Plants 
produces from 9 to 10,000 small bags of seed, and 7 to 
8,000 young trees yearly, which are distributed to profes— 
sional persons for the purpose of propagation. The total num¬ 
ber of species of plants cultivated in the botanical department 
of this establishment is upwards of 12,000. To view the Con¬ 
servatories apply in writing to M. Decaisne, at the establish¬ 
ment, who will send tickets. The garden is open daily tilS 
nightfall. Near the amphitheatre is the entrance to the 
Menagerie .—When Louis XIV. fixed his residence at Ver¬ 
sailles, the Academy of Sciences prevailed on him to form a 
menagerie in the park. This menagerie increased under 
Louis XV. and XVI., but in 1789 the animals being neglected,. 


'430 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

•several of them perished for want of food. Those which re- 1 
mained were removed to the Museum in 1794, and placed in 
'temporary buildings, and the plan of a menagerie was laid 
•out; it was only, however, by degrees that the necessary 
ground was obtained. It is divided into numerous compart¬ 
ments containing huts and sheds for the animals, enclosed 
with iron railings and wire-net, with paths between, and 
has lately been undergoing extensive improvements. An 
■artificial rivulet, headed by a small rustic cascade, intersects 
the whole length of the ground, and here a beaver from 
Canada has built himself a mansion. Skirting an enclosure 
•containing some fine Egyptian goats, close to the Museum of 
Comparative Anatomy (see below), we find to our right a 
community of black swans and poultry from China, India, and 
other parts; and a few steps further to our left, a quadrangle 
devoted to reptiles and warmed by steam. The creatures are 
confined in glass cages, with blankets to keep them warm, and 
are visible from the wired windows outside ; a small fee will 
admit the visitor to the interior. Here we see five alligators, 
which but two years ago were not more than 18 inches in 
length, and have now grown to three feet and upwards. 
There are also about a dozen other alligators of different 
species from Australia and Louisiana, all of considerable size. 
They have a tank of water in their cage, but growing as they 
•do, their present tenement will soon be insufficient, and a large 
building will have to be provided for them. Adjoining we 
•find a young crocodile, four feet long, and in the next cage a 
lew European serpents which are not venomous ; then an ant- 
•eater, a cameleon and various other lizards. The last cages 
•contain two boa-constrictors and a Python. Continuing 
along the same path, we see various small aviaries with 
singing-birds from all the quarters of the globe ; also parrots, 
cockatooes, quails, woodcocks, nightingales, &c. On the 
•other side of the walk there are enclosures with Mexican and 
•other poultry, owls from South America, porcupines, and 
hedgehogs. Adjoining this walk there is a nursery containing 
upwards of 500 kinds of pear-trees all outside the railing 
which encloses the real Menagerie. From the outer gate to 
which this path leads, we turn into another to our right, 
skirted with enclosures for Llamas and deer of various de¬ 
scriptions, besides cages occupied by badgers, wolves, foxes 
and jackals, in one of the transversal paths, which leads to a 
laboratory of comparative physiology, containing about a 
dozen cages with dogs, wolves, and jackals, and the crosses 
between these species, highly interesting in a physiological 
point of view, both as proofs of their strong affinity, and of 


JARDIN DES PLANTES. 431 

the fact that their ferocity declines at every successive cross 
with the dog. This laboratory, which is not accessible to 
the public, is situated behind a rectangular building divided 
into 21 cages, containing several bears and hyenas, a wolf, 
an ocelot, a panther, a jaguar, a Royal tiger, and a lion. The 
enclosure flanking this building is tenanted by four drome¬ 
daries ; that opposite to the dens, by deer/chamois, and 
lamas ; and that beyond, which skirts the western railing, 
contains various sheep and deer. The adjoining path to the 
left of this leads to a semi-circular pavilion, containing a co¬ 
lony of monkeys and apes, that afford unceasing amusement 
to the public by their gambols, caresses, and occasional 
fighting. The interior may be seen for a small fee by ringing 
a bell at the right-hand door. Continuing along the path to 
our left, we arrive at a large aviary for birds of prey. Here 
we see, in various compartments, vultures from Mexico, 
Senegal, and India, in close friendship with some French and 
Swiss ravens. The Caracara of Brazil, several hawks and 
eagles complete the collection. Other cages contain small 
singing-birds from different countries. An enclosure close by 
is inhabited by pheasants, and that opposite contains a few 
gazelles, oxen, and cows of the Hungarian breeds, remarkable 
for their large horns ; and further on, we see specimens of the 
yak, or Thibet ox, with long white silky hair and bushy tails, 
also the zebu or Indian ox, remarkable for its hunch. The 
next enclosure is tenanted by hemiones, and this brings us to 
a polygonal pavilion for the larger animals, viz., a male and 
female hippopotamus, the aurochs or European bison, a 
giraffe, two young elephants, and a larger one from Ceylon. 
To view the internal arrangements of this building, a ticket 
should be procured from the Director, but sometimes a fee 
will do. In the enclosure opposite, there are two very young 
elephants, that are great favourites with the public. West of 
this there are three sunken enclosures for bears, two of which 
are white, the third brown, and the fourth black. The 
adjoining enclosures contain deer and goats ; further on, there 
is another for various poultry, swans, storks, and peacocks; 
the pond in the centre is the favourite abode of a seal caught 
in the British Channel, and which does not seem the worse 
for living in fresh water. The total number of mammalia 
kept here is about 450 ; that of the birds 400.—Open daily 
from 11 to G in summer and 11 to 3 in winter. 

The zoologist is here enabled with great advantage to study 
the instinct and habits of animals, the influence of confine¬ 
ment, &c.; and the dead animals which the collection furnishes 
enrich the museum with valuable acquisitions. 








432 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

Cabinet of Comparative Anatomij. —For this collection, the 
richest in existence, the museum is indebted to the exertions 
of Baron Cuvier, by whom it was arranged, and under whose 
direction most of the objects were prepared. It is contained in 
a building near the Amphitheatre, and is fronted with two 
glazed sheds, one containing the body, the other the ske¬ 
leton of a whale. Other whales are exhibited in the court, 
one of which ( Physeter macro cephalus) is 56 feet long. The 
skeleton in the centre is that of a common whale, beside which 
there are models, executed in plaster, of the head of the 
rorqual, or whale of the Cape, and of the body of a Southern 
whale. The 1st room on the ground floor to the right is de¬ 
voted to skeletons of various marine animals, with a male 
morse, brought by Capt. Parry from the polar regions. 
In the next room are skeletons of the human species from 
all quarters of the globe, including mummies, dwarfs, 
and especially that of the dwarf Bebe (see p. 392), and 
that of Soliman El Hhaleby, a learned Syrian, who assas¬ 
sinated Gen. Kleber in Egypt; also a series of skulls, in which 
the varying conformation of the head from the lower animals 
up to man is clearly traced, some of them found in Egyptian 
and Etruscan tombs. There is also a skull, fixed on the figure 
of an idol, adored by the Papaos tribes. A suite of twelve 
small rooms or cabinets upstairs contains dissections of birds, 
fishes, and reptiles, besides specimens of the human body. In 
the first room is a collection of skulls of different animals, in¬ 
cluding those of the gorilla and chimpanzee ; in the 2d we per¬ 
ceive monstrous formations of various species. The 3d con¬ 
tains complete skeletons of mammalia, including those of the 
gorilla and other species of monkeys. A glass case con¬ 
tains the complete anatomy of the ostrich. The 4th con¬ 
tains skeletons of birds; the 5th and 6th those of crocodiles, 
fishes, tortoises, and reptiles. Over the cases are skeletons of 
the boa constrictor, a shark, and a sword-fish; and jaws of 
several species of sharks, the ray, &c., and on the tables the 
dried larynx and hyoid bones of birds and quadrupeds. In the 
7th are the viscera of the chicken, executed in wax. In the 
8th is a cast of the human body without the skin, the muscles 
painted to imitate nature, and another of a chimpanzee, pre¬ 
pared in a like manner. The cases on one side exhibit small 
figures in wax of human arms and legs. On the other side 
are limbs of quadrupeds; in the remaining cases dissected 
muscles of several animals kept in alcohol. In the 9th, in a 
large glass case, is a model in wax presenting to view' the vis¬ 
cera of a child; and on the table opposite we see various 
heads, also in wax, displaying the lymphatic and nervous 


JARDIN DES PLANTES. 433 

systems. The loth contains the organs of circulation, and those 
of the different secretions; aseriesof hearts of mammalia, reptiles, 
and fishes; also some injected preparations and very delicate 
foetal ones of viviparous and oviparous animals; in the 11th, 
preparations of different orders of mollusks, articulated ani¬ 
mals, and zoophytes, and preparations of shell fish in wax. 
The 12th room contains Dr. Gall’s valuable collection of skulls 
and casts of distinguished and notorious characters. Here 
commences a new and interesting collection, called the 
Cabinet of Anthropology .—It occupies a suite of ten rooms, 
being the whole of the remaining first floor of the building, 
and is remarkable not only for the casts and specimens it con¬ 
tains, hut for a considerable collection of portraits executed 
in water-colours for the scientific purpose of exhibiting the 
peculiarities of the features of each race. It comprises Arabs, 
Mongolians, Chinese, Hottentots, &c., in most cases with the 
names of the individuals, their age, and the specification of the 
rank they hold as specimens of their race. These portraits 
are framed, and adorn the walls of all the rooms. In the cen¬ 
tre of the first room we see a perfect human skeleton in a glass 
case, and in the presses around busts of remarkable specimens 
of the races of Algeria, besides heads and skulls. The centre 
of the second room is occupied by a glass case containing the 
whole vascular system of an Ethiopian subject, displayed with 
the most elaborate nicety, two bronze busts of Ethiopians, 
copies from nature, and exquisitely executed by M. Cordier 
in 1848, will attract peculiar attention ; in the presses there 
are skeletons of negroes, a mummy, complete casts of Ethio¬ 
pians, Red Indians, &c. In the 3d room we find a collection 
of skeletons and portraits of various races, and a fossil skeleton 
of a Gallic woman. This series is continued in the 4th room, 
which also contains two mummies and a series of heads, all 
casts from the living subject. The 5th contains the detailed 
anatomy of the Ethiopian and Caucasian races, and some pho¬ 
tographs, completing the series of subjects in water-colours. 
These are continued in the 6th and following rooms. In the 
J 7 th there is a group representing the last Mohicans, a man and 
, a woman. In the 8th there are Peruvian mummies, in a 
sitting, or rather a crouching posture, besides Mongolian busts 
and heads. In the 9th, the series is continued ; it also con- 
> tains an Esquimaux canoe ; and here we would recommend 
those endowed with the bump of amaliveness not to dwell too 
long on the charms of a Boshman lady, which grace the 
glass-case in the centre. There are also here two bronze 
busts of a Chinese man and woman, by Cordier. The loth 
room contains skulls, and various casts taken during Prince 

28 










434 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

Napoleon’s expedition to Lapland and Greenland. A long | 
passage, hung with specimens of bones, leads us back to 
the Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy ; and, travers¬ 
ing the suite already seen, we reach the staircase in 
the 12th room, on descending which we see the fossil re¬ 
mains of the plesiosauri, found at Lyme Regis and at Glaston¬ 
bury, and other extinct species. There are many skeletons of 
camels, antelopes, mules, tapirs, giraffes, rhinoceroses, hippo¬ 
potami, elephants, dec. The number of specimens in this section 
exceeds 15,000. A valuable addition to this museum has 
recently been made by M. Bocourt, who had been sent on a 
scientific mission to Siam. The fauna of that country 
having hitherto been almost entirely neglected, M. Bocourt 
has been enabled to add 15 new species of various genera 
to the science of natural history. A catalogue may be had 
on the spot. 

Gallsnj of Zoology. —This building, which once bore the 
name of Cabinet of Natural History, is 390 feet in length, and 
skirts the rue St. Victor. It has two stories, besides the ground- 
floor, and is of plain architecture. Considerable additions 
are daily made to this matchless gallery. The zoological col¬ 
lections are classed according to the system of Baron Cuvier. 
Ascending to the first story, we find in the first room a beau¬ 
tiful statue by Duparty, representing Vivying Nature. The 
presses along the walls contain quadrupeds of the dog, goat, I 
and lama species. The second room is devoted to zoophytes, ■ 
sponges, nautili, and shells ; the third comprises a large col¬ 
lection of apes, including a gorilla in a large glass case in the - 
centre ; the fourth, Crustacea, comprehending brachyures. 
anomures, maeroures, stomapodes, amphipodes, and xypho- 
sures. The fifth room contains a very complete collection of 
upwards of 2,000 reptiles, comprising more than 500 species 
divided into four orders, viz., chelonians or tortoises, sau- 
rians or lizards, ophidians or serpents, and batrachians or 
frogs, toads, dec. Most of the smaller reptiles, and some of 
the larger species, are preserved in spirits. The sixth and 
seventh rooms are filled with a complete collection of fishes, 
aquatic birds and snakes ; some stuffed, others preserved in 
spirits ; the largest specimens are suspended from the ceiling. 
The seventh room moreover contains a marble statue of 
Buffon, by Pajou. Returning to the sixth, a staircase to the 
right leads to the ground floor, where there is a gallery con¬ 
taining zoophytes and other specimens preserved in spirits ; 
besides a room with mammalia of the largest class, such as 
elephants, hippopotami, dec. We may now ascend the same 
staircase to the second floor, where we find ourselves in the 




JARDIN DES PLANTES. 43 6 

midst of a large arched gallery, filled with the completes! col- 
0 lection of birds in Europe, comprising upwards of lo 000 
'' specimens belonging to 2,500 different genera. Over the 
0 glass cases are busts of Lacepede, Adanson, Daubenton and 

• other celebrated naturalists; in the centre is the marble bust 

• of Guy dc la Brosse, the founder of the Museum ; and not far 
ir . om this a clock by Robin, marking both mean and solar 

• time. In another room to the left we find camels buffaloes 

" a «d other large mammalia. The tallest of the three giraffes 
s that are here had lived 17 % years in the Menagerie • "it died 
1 in 1849. At the other end of the gallery there are two more 
[ rooms, containing seals, apes, armadilloes, bears, ferrets por- 
1 cupines, musk-rats, foxes, jackals, wolves, and hyenas - the' 
1 glass cases in the centre and those of the gallery contain a 
1 complete collection of polyptferous and apterous insects, be¬ 
sides nests of termites, hornets, and wasps ; specimens of the- 
: devastations effected in wood by different species of worms 
1 and a numerous collection of shells, mollusks, zoophytes’ 

• | echini, &c. The whole number of mammalia is calculated 

; at 2,000, comprising nearly 500 species ; the collection of 
■ fishes consists of about 5,000 specimens, comprising nearly 
2,500 species; of the tubipores, madrepores, millepores co¬ 
rallines, and sponges, the variety is very complete. ’ The* 
total number of specimens is estimated at upwards of 
200,000, so systematically and progressively arranged: that 
beginning with the lowest manifestations of animal organisation; 
(as in the sponge and other zoophytes), we can follow the* 
chain of nature link by link, till it arrives at its highest rw~ 
fection in man. 

Mineralogical and Geological Museum .—The splendid col¬ 
lection of minerals and geological specimens is arranged in a 
building erected for this purpose in the south-eastern corner 
of the garden. It consists of two stories, and is 54 0 feet Ions 
by 40 wide, and 30 high. It is divided into three compart¬ 
ments by two Doric pavilions, surmounted by pediments sculp¬ 
tured with appropriate emblems, by Lescorne. In the centre- 
are two statues, representing Geology and Mathematics. The- 
entrance nearest to the zoological gallery leads to an anteroom 
giving access to an amphitheatre for lectures in front, to the* 
library on the right, and to the mineralogical collection- 
on the left. This is contained in a long room, lighted from 
above, with 30 columns, which, though Doric, have their 
friezes adorned with Corinthian leaves. It has elevated gal¬ 
leries on either side, under which are laboratories and rooms? 
for the professors and attendants. In the centre of the hall 
is a marble statue of the illustrious Cuvier, in the costume c.f 






I 


436 " EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

Councillor of the University, by David d’Angers, with the 
proudest of all inscriptions, the names of his immortal works. 1 
Opposite we see that of Haiiy, in a sitting posture, also in 
marble, by Brion. Between these statues will be seen some 
valuable marble tables of Florentine Mosaic. The walls at 
both ends of this room are adorned with paintings by Re-j ( 
mond, representing, at the entrance, the cascade of the Staub- 
bach (Berne), the alluvial soil of the valley of the Aar, 1 
near Meyringen (Berne), and the Ilecla and Geysers, as seen ' 
in Iceland by Prince Napoleon in 1856 ; and at the opposite 
extremity, the eruption of Stromboli, the glaciers of Rosen- ; 
laui (Berne), the eruption of Vesuvius in 1822, and the ba- 1 
saltic lava of the cascade of Quereil (Puy-de-Dome). Here the 
visitor will also perceive, on a stand, a large lump of me¬ 
teoric iron, weighing 1304 lb., found in the department of 
the Yar. Horizontal glass cases in the centre contain minerals 
and earths scientifically classed, and in drawers are similar sup¬ 
plemental specimens. In front of the galleries on the ground- 
floor are ranged vertical glass cases, containing minerals classed 
according to their chemical composition ; the specimens used to 
illustrate the lectures of the professors are placed in horizontal 
ones; underneath are drawers with supplemental specimens. 
In front of the bases of the pillars are vertical cases, with the 
minerals, See., used in arts and manufactures. The galleries 
contain, at the end nearest the entrance, all the known rocks 
and earths arranged geologically; at the other, the fossils 
found in the various geological formations. There are many 
specimens here, brought over by Prince Napoleon from his 
late Arctic expedition (1). The mineralogical collection is di¬ 
vided into four classes: 1, simple substances; 2, alkaline 
salts ; 3, alkaline and other earths ; 4, metals. Of the First, 
the most interesting are the native sulphur and a series of 
diamonds and other gems, rough and cut, solid and liquid bi¬ 
tumen and yellow amber. Of the latter, several pieces con¬ 
tain insects enveloped by the amber when in its liquid state, 
without injuring their form. Several of the gems, par¬ 
ticularly the yellow, red, and white topazes, are remarkably 
beautiful. The second class of minerals, namely, that of alka¬ 
line salts, comprises fine specimens of rock-salt, the phosphate, 
fluate, nitrate, and arseniate of lime, the borate of soda, and 
the alkaline fluate of alumina. The third class comprises, 
among other specimens, those of Icelandic calcareous spar, 
metastaltic crystals from Derbyshire, hyaline quartz, the dark- 
green and red agates, jasper, chalcedony, felspar, tourmaline, 

(l) Too much praise cannot be given to the Professors, under 
whose superintendence this division of the museum is placed. 






JARDIN DES PLANTES* 437] 

lapis lazuli, some large slabs of mica, &c. In the class of 
metallic substances we find specimens of gold and silver from 
Peru, Mexico, California, and Australia, among which should 
be noticed a piece of massive gold from Peru, weighing 16% 
ounces; a fine specimen of native silver from Mexico, and 
the different combinations of silver with sulphur and anti¬ 
mony, and the carbonic and muriatic acids. Next come 
specimens of platina, ores of quicksilver ; lead in every com¬ 
bination of colour ; the different varieties of copper, and 
a large collection of aeroliths, chiefly collected in France; 
then the oxides and other natural combinations of ar¬ 
senic, manganese, antimony, uranium, molybdenum, tita¬ 
nium, tungsten, tellurium, chromium, &c. The part most 
interesting to the geologist is the complete series of strata, 
from the primary rocks to the latest alluvial deposits ; 
the impressions of birds’ claws, worms, and reptiles, numerous 
fossil remains, pudding-stones and agglomerations of bones 
belonging to drift deposits, &c. The specimens of the ter¬ 
tiary formations are very fine, and attest the zeal of the great 
Cuvier, to whom the whole of this part of the museum may be 
said to owe its existence. Among various objects belonging 
to this collection are a superb vase of the brecciated porphyry 
of the Vosges, two large groups of crystals of colourless quartz; 
several cups of agate, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, &c. The im¬ 
portance of this division of the institution was greatly inf 
creased in 1825 by a donation from Charles X. of a fine mine¬ 
ral ogical collection purchased by the civil list for 300,000 fr.; 
and continual additions by gift or purchase are being made to 
it. The directors of the museum have exchanged models ac¬ 
curately coloured, of the more important or rarer fossils, with 
foreign institutions for other specimens. The number of mi- 
neralogical and geological specimens exceeds 60,000. 

Botanical Gallery. —From the mineralogical museum we 
enter an anteroom, containing a fine marble statue of Jussieu, 
by Heral. The walls around display a number of gigantic 
trunks of palm-trees and other monocotyledons. The gal¬ 
lery adjoining contains, in glass presses lining the walls, 
a very extensive collection of woods of all kinds, with speci¬ 
mens of the epidermis, the bark, the roots, &c., of many of 
the larger kinds of trees and plants. A numerous and very 
valuable series of fruits, &c., preserved in spirits of wine, con¬ 
stitutes one of the subdivisions, and also two cabinets of the 
fungus family in wax, presented to the museum by the Em¬ 
peror of Austria and by Charles X. The latter, executed by 
De Pinson, is valued at 20,000 fr. A collection of foreign 
fruits, in wax and plaster, is also entitled to attention. The 




438 


EIGHTEENTH WALK. 


collection of drugs of the Garden of Plants, with considerable 
additions, is kept in this room, and a very interesting collec¬ 
tion of fossil plants and dendrites from the various coal forma¬ 
tions has been arranged by M. Ad. Brongniart. The total num¬ 
ber of dried plants exceeds 350,000 ; and of woods, fruits, 
and grains, more than 4,500. At the end is a large round 
table, 2 metres 20 centimetres, or nearly 7 feet in diameter, 
the top of which, made of the wood of the Baobab, is all of 
one piece. The veins of the wood show that the trunk from 
which it was cut must have been at least double, or 14 feet in 
diameter! In the rooms up-stairs, not open to the public, 
is a general herbal, consisting of about 50,000 species. It 
was founded by Vaillant, and gradually augmented by Com- 
merson, Dambey, Mace, Poiteau, Leschenault, See. There 
arc also separate herbals of New Holland, Cayenne, the An¬ 
tilles, the Cape, India, Egypt, &c., herbals which served as 
models for printed works, such as that of Michaux ; that of the 
Plants of France, by M. de Candolle; that of M. de Humboldt, 
of Bernard, Antoine and Adrien de Jussieu, of Tournefort 
(this last arranged and ticketed by his own hand', and that of 
Gundelsheimer. There is also a laboratory here ; but this and 
the herbals are only open to students. 

The Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy, and the Zoological, 
Mineralogical, and Botanical galleries are open to the public 
on Sundays, from 1 to 5 ; on Tuesdays, and Thursdays from 
2 to 5; and to persons with tickets, to be obtained on the 
spot from the office of the Administration, also on Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 11 to 2. 

Library .—The library, which lies contiguous to a house 
once inhabited by Buffon, is composed of works on natural his¬ 
tory. Opposite the entrance is a bust of Fourcroy. Most of 
its printed works are to be met with in every public library, 
but the manuscripts, accompanied with original designs, and 
the magnificent collection of paintings of fruit and flowers 
upon vellum, form an unrivalled collection. It was com¬ 
menced in 1635, and now fills 90 portfolios, with upwards 
of 6,000 drawings, estimated at two millions of francs. The 
library contains 30,000 volumes and 15,000 pamphlets.— 
Open daily to the public, Sundays excepted, from 10 to 3. 
Vacations from September 1 to October 1, and for a fortnight 
after Easter. 

It is almost needless to add that the Musee d’Histoire Natu- 
relle stands at the head of all institutions of the kind, not only 
in France, but in Europe. Its most valuable part is perhaps the 
Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy, arranged by Cuvier; but the 
Cabinet of Natural History, if not so precious, is more exten- 






PONT D’AUSTERLITZ. 439 

sive. Many weeks would be requisite to inspect this immense 
museum in detail, and much scientific knowledge to duly 
appreciate its contents. As naturalists, the professors of this 
institution are highly distinguished, and worthy to teach in 
the schools founded by the illustrious Buffon and Cuvier, (l) 

The central gate of the Jardin des Plantes, towards the river, 
opens upon the 

Place Walihjbert, ( 2 ) forming a semicircle at the entrance 
of the Jardin des Plantes. The visitor will remark the fine 
extent of quays and the 

Pont d’Austerlitz. —This was at first an iron-bridge, the 
second constructed in Paris, begun in 1801, and finished in 
1807, by Beaupre & Lamande, at a cost of 3,000,000 fr. It re¬ 
ceived its name in commemoration of the victory gained by 
the French, Dec. 2, 1805, over the Russians and Austrians. 
On the second occupation hy the allied armies, the name was 
changed to Pont du Roi, and afterwards to Pont du Jardin des 
Plantes , but it resumed its original name in 1830. In 1854 
it was discovered to be in a very dangerous state, and its recon¬ 
struction of stone was accomplished in the short space of six 
months, at a cost of 1,000,000 fr. It now consists of fi\e 
arches, with massive cast-iron railings along the foot-paths. At 
its opposite end is the Boulevard Mazas (see p. 279). 

A fruit-market, called the Mail, is held on the wharf of 
the Quai St, Bernard. The quantity of fruit brought hither 
by water for sale is immense. 

A few steps eastward, beyond the Boulevard de PHopital, 
is the rue de la Gare, where we see the terminus of the 

Bordeaux, Orleans and Corbeil Railways, —a low plain 
building, with a court 435 feet long by 81 in breadth. The prin¬ 
cipal entrance is by a projecting body, crowned with an attic, 

(1) There was, before the revolution of 1 848 , sonic intention 
of boring an artesian well in the Jardin des Plantes, to the depth 
of about 3,000 feet, that at Grenelle being 1,700. According to 
the calculations of MM. Arago and Walferdin, founded on ex¬ 
periments made at the latter place, it was estimated that the 
temperature of water from such a depth would range from 97 
to 104 Fahrenheit, with which the hot-liouses of the Jardin des 
Plantes and Menagerie, and even the wards and baths of the 
neighbouring hospitals, might be warmed and supplied. 

(2) This name is owing to the following eircumslance :—At 
the battle of Austerlitz, orders had been given not to relard 
the evolutions of the troops by carrying off the wounded. 
During the action, General Walhubert had both bis legs shot 
away ; and on some soldiers hastening to his assistance, he 
drove them off with his sabre, exclaiming: “No attention to 
the wounded; March on:’' 


440 EIGHTEENTH WALK. 

having three circular arches in front, 9 feet wide by 18 hi 
height, the only portion of the edifice which has any preten¬ 
sion to architectural ornament. The administration occupies 
a building fronting the Boulevard de l’Hopital. 

Continuing along this Boulevard, we arrive at an open 
space to our left planted with trees, in front of which is the 

Hospice de la Vieillesse (female), or la Salp£triere.— 
The civil war under Louis XIV. had drawn an immense number 
of poor to Paris, and in 1656 the establishment of a general 
hospital for them was ordained. Extensive buildings, occupied 
as a saltpetre-manufactory, were granted, and M. Bruant 
charged to make the necessary alterations. This Hospital, con¬ 
sisting of no less than 45 different buildings, which occupy a 
space of 32,542 square metres, is 1680 feet in length. The 
superficies of the pavement in it are 30,500 metres ; of its 
roofs, 63,130, and it has 4,682 windows. One of the oldest 
parts of the hospital is a wing constructed by Cardinal Maza- 
rin, at an expense of 300,000 livres. A Doric gateway leads 
to a court, which serves as a promenade. The principal front 
to the northwest is above 600 feet in length, and has four pro¬ 
jecting pavilions. In the centre is a vestibule fronted by three 
arches, leading to the church, the dome of which covers a 
circular space of 90 feet in diameter. The nave and tran¬ 
septs intersect each other in a large octagonal space, into 
which four large chapels, also octagonal, open. The high 
altar is in the centre. There are two gateways, one of which, 
belonging to the wing built by Cardinal Mazarin, is named 
after him, and bears in the tympanum his arms supported by 
two figures in bas-relief. In 1662, from 9,000 to 10,000 
paupers were admitted here. The hospital receives, 1st, the 
reposantes, women who have been in its service thirty years, 
and who are upwards of sixty years of age. 2d, indigent 
old women of upwards of seventy, affected with incurable 
maladies. 3d, Insane and epileptic females. The number of 
beds is 5,204, and not fewer than 484 persons are employed 
in the hospital in different capacities. It is always full. 
The lunatics, of whom about three-fifths are dangerously mad, 
are kept in separate infirmaries, and treated with the greatest 
care. Sewing is the chief employment: 48,000 military 
sacks can be completed here in one month. The harmless are 
allowed to amuse themselves in the occupations they fancy, 
especially in gardening, the salutary effect of which is con¬ 
ducive to their recovery. There is a small market within 
the walls of this establishment, under the control of the 
administration. The linen of all the hospitals is washed here, 
comprising about 3,600,000 articles a year (see p. 142), 



MARCHE AUX CHEVAUX. 441 

Strangers are admitted. An attendant (usually a female) 
accompanies them round ; a small gratuity is expected. 

Crossing the Boulevard, we find, nearly opposite to this 
hospice, the new Church of St. Marcel, decorated in the 
Byzantine style, but otherwise uninteresting. 

At the junction of the Boulevard de l’Hopital with the new 
Boulevard St. Marcel, was the 

Marche aux Chevaux, now provisionally removed to the 
Place d’Enfer.—The horse-market was originally established 
on the Boulevard des Capucines, in 1604, by Henry IV., and 
transferred hither in 1642. In 1818 the ground was formed 
into avenues for exercising horses. The market is held on 
Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 12 till 4 in winter, and 
from 3 to 7 in summer. Few horses but those for ordinary 
purposes are sold in the horse-market of the Place d’Enfer, 
where mules and asses may also be bought. The number 
generally on sale varies from 600 to 800. The police regu¬ 
lations tend to diminish roguery there if possible. 

On the same spot is held the Marche aux Chiens, or dog- 
market, every Sunday from twelve till two. 

At the opposite extremity of this market we find the rue du 
Marche aux Chevaux. Here, to our left, we see, at No. 15, the 
heer-brewery of M. Dumesnil, whose cellars form part of the 
ancient quarries from which Paris was built, and are a con¬ 
tinuation of the Catacombs. A solid winding staircase of 10 
feet diameter and 84 steps leads down to them; the roof of the 
cellar, which is flat, is supported by piers in masonry 6 feet 
high ; the ensemble forms a vast subterranean labyrinth. To 
visit them application must be made at the counting-house. 
Ladies are advised not to try the experiment. 


ITI1TETEE1TTH IT ALE. 

Having thus far completed the description of Paris as it was 
before its extension to the fortifications on the 1st of January, 
1860, this and the following walk will comprise a short notice 
of the communes annexed to the capital from that date. The 
stranger therefore is here supposed to start from the Pont de 
Bercy (seep. 280^, following the exterior Boulevards on the 
left or southern bank of the Seine, in a westwardly direction, 
exchanging his walk for a drive, as inclination or weariness 
may dictate. Although no “ cloud-capt towers and gorgeous 
palaces” will meet the eye, yet the amateur pedestrian or 
artist will, in this excursion, derive no small enjoyment both 







442 NINETEENTH WALK. 

from the contrast which these districts present to the centre of 
the capital, and from the curious medley which will meet 
his eye of hovels and cheerful habitations, ever and anon en¬ 
livened by some new view of old Paris, unrecorded by the 
photographer, or else by patches of green, clusters of trees, 
or some extensive factory bursting suddenly into view, not 
to mention many a Flemish tableau with which the markets 
or places of popular amusement afforded by the exterior 
Boulevards abound (see p. 486). 

The portion of the 13th arrondissemcnt which lies to the 
left of the Boulevard de la Gare, was the commune of 

Ivry, comprising the subdivisions of La Gare, near the 
river, and Austerlitz, west of the latter. It contains the 
Hospice des Incurables (homines) (see p. 121) and many ma¬ 
nufactories interesting to the commercial visitor, the principal 
being india-rubber, iron works, chemical preparations. Sec. 

At No. 40, in the rue dn Chevaleret, is the 
Maison St. Casimir. —This small charitable foundation for 
the education of the children of Polish exiles, established in 
1846, and mainly supported by the efforts of the patriotic 
Princess Czartoryska, is under the direction of six Polish sis¬ 
ters of charity, driven by persecution from their native soil. 
Here, with that persevering patriotism which distinguishes their 
unfortunate nation, they have created a little Poland around 
them; 40 children learn their national language here, and receive 
instruction at their hands. The neatness and order that pervade 
this establishment, the airy and tidy dormitories, the simple 
refectory and school-room, the small but cheerful garden with 
its homely chapel, will interest and please the visitor, notwith¬ 
standing the melancholy recollections with which they are as¬ 
sociated. The gifts of private charity which this community 
receives are applied to the relief of Polish widows or orphans. 

Continuing along the exterior Boulevard, we arrive at a 
point where the rue Mouffetard and the Boulevard de l’Hopital 
meet. Here we see, close to the corner of the latter, the 
Abattoir de Villejuif, now suppressed. To the left, on 
the exterior Boulevard, is the 

Mairie du Treizieme Arrondissement, only remarkable 
for being established in one of the octroi buildings of the old 
barriers (see p. 278n.) Most of the others were of a similar 
design. Here commenced the suburb of 
La Maison Blanche, which possesses a melancholy in- i 
terest from the murder of General Brea in June, 1848. This > 
crime was committed at No. 66, rue de la Maison Blanche, 1 
where a church, in the Gothic style, has now been erected. The ' 
altar stands on the very spot where the General fell, and the 


LA MAISON BLANCHE. 443 

church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of 
the unfortunate victim. (1) The recess of the choir, painted 
in fresco, represents the Trinity. 

The Boulevard des Gobelins skirts the old commune of La 
GlaciLre, a section of Gentilly. Here is the new lunatic 
asylum of the 

Ffrme Ste. Anne, once a model farm attached to Bicetre 
(see p. 497). The works are still in progress. 

Entering the rue de la Tombe Issoire, we And, west of 
it, the 

Parc de Montsouris, commanding a fine view of the 
capital. Two avenues, one from the Boulevard de la 
Glaciere, the other from the Place d'Enfer, will lead to it. 
The ground, 40 acres in extent, is not yet all laid out ; but 
when linished, it will be much frequented by the pupils of 
the lyceums and schools on this side of the Seine. 

The 14th arrondissement begins here with the commune of 

Montrouge, well-known for its guinguettes (see p. 482). 

On the Boulevard d'Arcueil, which skirts it, executions 
used to take place before 1852 (see p. 458). 

Close to this spot there is one of the entrances to the 

Catacombs. —These immense receptacles for the bones of the 
dead were devoted to that purpose in 17 84, when the Council of 
State issued a decree for clearing the cemetery of the Innocents, 
and for removing its contents, as well as those of other ceme¬ 
teries, into the quarries that had existed from a remote period 

(i) On June 24 , 1848 , Gen. Brea, who commanded the troops 
on the side of the rue Mouffetard, had succeeded in taking all 
the barricades of that street, except that of the Barrifere de Fon¬ 
tainebleau, which was the most formidable. Gen. Brea, to 
put a stop to bloodshed, advanced in company with another 
officer, Capt. Mangin, in order to parley with the insurgents 
and induce them to surrender. They invited him to alight 
and come amongst them, that they might hear him better. 
Suspecting no treachery, the general did so; but no sooner 
had he and his companion crossed the barricade, than they 
were seized by the ruffians, dragged to the above-mentioned 
house, and summoned, on pain of death, to order the force 
under his command to lay down their arms. On his refusal, 
he was given an hour’s time to accept either infamy or death. 
The hour passed, and found the noble victims ready to sacri¬ 
fice their lives for their personal honour and the welfare of 
their country. Two hours after their death, the barrier and the 
scene of this horrid crime were occupied by the troops. Gen. 
Brea was born in 1790 ; he had served in the campaigns of 
Calabria, Spain, Belgium, Saxony, and Russia, and had been 
wounded at the battle of Leipzig. Ilis murderers were tried by 
court-martial, convicted, and executed. 






444 NINETEENTH WALK. 

beneath the southern part of Paris, and by which several streets 
are undermined. (1) Some sinkings of the ground having oc¬ 
curred, a committee was formed to direct such works as might be 
required to avert the danger which threatened the streets and 
houses. On the suggestion of M. Lenoir, lieutenant-general of 
The police, a part of the quarries under the Plaine de Mont 
Souris was allotted for this purpose; a house, known by the 
name of la Tombe Issoire, or Isauard, (from a famous robber 
who once infested that neighbourhood,) on the old road to 
(Orleans, was purchased, with a piece of ground adjoining; 
a shaft was sunk, the cavities propped up, and various portions 
walled off for receiving the dead. The ceremony of con¬ 
secrating the Catacombs was performed on the 7th of April, 
17 86, and that same evening the removal from the cemeteries 
began. This work was always performed at night; the bones 
were brought in funeral cars, covered with a pall, followed by 
priests, chanting the service of the dead, and when they reached 
(the Catacombs were shot down the shaft. The tomb-stones, 
monuments, &c., not claimed by the families of the deceased, 
were removed and arranged in a field belonging to the Tombe 
Issoire; some of them were very curious, and among them 
was the leaden coffin of Mine, de Pompadour. They were all 
(destroyed however during the revolution of 17 89, and a guin- 
guette erected on the spot. The Catacombs served also as 
■convenient receptacles for those who perished in popular com¬ 
motions or massacres. The bones, when first brought, were 
heaped up without any kind of order, except that those from 
each cemetery were kept separate. In 1810, a regular system 
of arranging the bones was commenced under the direction of 
M. Hericart de Thury. Openings were made in many places 
to admit air, channels formed to carry off the water, steps were 
constructed from the lower to the upper excavations, pillars 
erected to support the dangerous parts of the vault, and the 
skulls and bones built up along the walls.—For many years, 
owing to the dangerous state of the roofs, visitors were 

(i) A map of the catacombs and quarries under Paris has 
been published by Monsieur K. de Fourcy, Civil Engineer. 
These excavations, which pass under the principal streets in the 
faubourgs St. Germain, St. Jacques, and St. Marcel, are three 
millions of square metres in extent, or about one-tenth of the 
total superficies of Paris. The Observatory, the Luxembourg, the 
Pantheon, and other important buildings are completely under¬ 
mined by them. The quantity of stone which they have fur¬ 
nished for building has been estimated at 11,000,000 cubic 
metres. There are 932 quarries within the department of the 
Seine, producing annually materials worth 10,000,000 fr., and 
employing 4,00® workmen. $ 


THE CATACOMBS. 44& 

refused admittance to the catacombs; and even now, not¬ 
withstanding the progress made in the process of consolida¬ 
tion, all is not visible. Upwards of 60 staircases descend into 
the Catacombs from different points; hut the principal en¬ 
trance is at the old Barriere d’Enfer, in the garden of the wes¬ 
tern octroi building. The staircase leading thence down to 
the Catacombs consists of 90 steps; at the bottom of which a 
series of galleries conducts to that called Port Mahon, from 
an old soldier, who worked here and amused his leisure hours,, 
for 5 years, in carving out of the stone a plan of Port Mahon,, 
where he had been long a prisoner. At a short distance from! 
this spot are some enormous fragments of stone nicely balanced! 
on a base hardly exceeding a point, and in this equilibrium; 
they have remained for more than two centuries. (1) About 
200 yards further on is the vestibule of the Catacombs. It is- 
of an octagonal form. On the sides of the door are two stone 
benches, and two pillars of the Tuscan order. Over the door 1 
is the following inscription :— Has ultra met as requiescunt 
beatam spem spectantes. The vestibule opens into a long; 
gallery lined with bones from the floor to the roof. The arm,, 
leg, and thigh-bones are in front, closely and regularly piled 
together, and their uniformity is relieved by three rows of 
skulls at equal distances. Behind these are thrown the smaller 
bones. This gallery conducts to several rooms, resembling 
chapels, lined with bones variously arranged ; and in the cen¬ 
tre, or niches of the walls, a re vases and altars, some of which, 
are formed of bones, and others are ornamented with skulls- 
of different sizes. These chapels contain numerous inscriptions* 
one is called the Tombeau de la Revolution, another the Tom- 
beau des Victimes, and enclose the bodies of those who pe¬ 
rished either in the early period of the revolution of 17 89, or ini 
the massacres of the 2d and 3d September. On a large stone pillar 
is the inscription Memento, quia pul vis es; and on another are 
sentences taken from the work of Thomas a Kempis, “ The 
Imitation of Christ.” Here is a fountain also, in which some 
gold fish were put, and in which they lived but did not 
spawn. The spring was discovered by the workmen ; the basin 
was made for their use, and a subterranean aqueduct carries 

(l) Similar rocking-stones, or Logan-stones, as they are termed, 
are frequently met with in Great Britain ; those of Twydneck in 
Wales, and of St. Agnes’s Island (Scilly group), are celebrated. 
Oliver Cromwell caused one at Sithney to be thrown from its 
support, as being a heathen monument. In 1824 , a Lieut. 
Goldsmith, R.N., in a frolic, threw down a very remarkable one 
at Castle Treryn, in Cornwall; but subsequently, ashamed of 
what he had done, replaced itby the aid of powerful machinery; 
and it still exists, as nicely balanced as before. 


44 6 NINETEENTH WALK. 

off the water. M. Ilericart cTe Thury named it la Source cVOu - 
bli, but it is now called Fontaine cle la Samaritaine, from 
an inscription containing the words of Christ to the Samaritan 
woman. A faint cadaverous smell is perceived, but not to a 
disagreeable or dangerous degree. The various galleries, form¬ 
ing a most intricate labyrinth, now correspond exactly with 
all the principal streets on the surface, and the new Boule¬ 
vard Arago has its namesake below, intersected by strong 
piers supporting it. A mineralogical collection of specimens 
of all the strata of the quarries, and a pathological assem¬ 
blage of diseased bones, both scientifically arranged by M. 
Hericart de Thury, will be remarked. There is likewise a 
table, on which are exposed the skulls most remarkable*either 
for their formation or the marks of disease which they bear. 
It is calculated that this vast charnel-house contains the re¬ 
mains of at least 3,000,000 of human beings. It is visible 
twice a month with tickets obtainable by writing to Monsieur 
le Prefet de la Seine, a VH6tel dc Ville. 

Near the Boulevard d’Arcueil is the Sceaux Railway ter¬ 
minus (see p. 547), and, a short way up the Route d’Orleans, 
the Ifospice de la Rochefoucaidt (see p. 119). Continuing 
along the exterior Boulevard, we reach the 

Cimetiere du Mont-Parnasse. —This cemetery, opened in 
1824, is situated in the Plaine de Mont Rouge, now enclosed 
within Paris. Its extent was formerly about 30 acres, but 
it at present contains upwards of 148, skirting tile Boulevard 
de Montrouge. The old enclosure is a parallelogram, 
skirted by lateral avenues, and two principal ones crossing 
each other at a rotunda in the centre. Several tributary walks 
run parallel respectively to these. The first monument to the 
right on entering is graced with a beautiful sitting statue of a 
young lady, by M. Varnicr. Among the monuments occupy¬ 
ing the circumference of the rotunda, the following are entitled 
to notice : Deseine, a celebrated statuary, who executed the 
monument of Cardinal De Belloy in the Cathedral of Notre 
Dame (see p. 31G.); Orfila, the distinguished chemist; De 
Villas, the founder of the hospice (see p. 381) ; Dr. Boyer, the 
painter Guillemot, the Duchess de Gesvres, the last of the 
family of Duguesclin. In the central avenue running from 
east to west, we see the bust of Ottavi, a relation of 
Napoleon I., and an eminent orator. In the western avenue 
is the tomb of Rear-Admiral Count d’Urville, a celebrated 
navigator, who in 1842, with his wife and son, fell a 
victim to the catastrophe on the Versailles railroad. (Seep. 496.) 
In the southern avenue will be observed the tombs of the 
Duchess of Vallombrosa, and of De Guignes, author of the 



447 


EGL1SE DE ST; LAMBERT. 

Chinese dictionary compiled by order of Napoleon I. The ave¬ 
nue to the east contains the tomb of Boulay de la Meurlhe, one 
of the Council of 500, highly esteemed by Napoleon, and in 
the secondary path right opposite, to our left, is the monu¬ 
ment of the Grecian traveller De Pouqueville. In this 
cemetery are also the burial-grounds of the hospitals. In 
the south-western compartment was the grave of Pepin, exe¬ 
cuted with Fieschi and Morey in 1835 for "a conspiracy against 
the life of Louis Philippe; his accomplices also were buried 
here, as well as Alibaud, executed for a similar attempt in 
1836, but their graves are no longer distinguishable. The burial 
place of common criminals is in a separate ground adjoining. 

The two heavy bossaged buildings close by were the octroi 
offices of the old Barriere dn Maine . Continuing along the 
Boulevard, a sharp turn brings us in sight of another couple of 
these strange edifices. To our right, at the corner of the rue 
des Fourneaux, is the 

Abattoir des Fourneaux, consisting of five buildings, re¬ 
served for the slaughter of pigs. The 15th arrondissement 
commences here with the commune of 

Vaugirard —a large manufacturing quarter. If the visitor 
have a predilection for architecture, he may strike into the 
Grande Rue, to his left, which will lead him to the new 
£glise de St. Lambert, an edifice in the Saxon style, built 
at a cost of 500,000 fr. It is a Latin cross, approached by 
steps flanked with a foiled parapet on each side. The porch 
is situated under a square tower in front, surmounted with a 
pyramidal steeple. The interior consists of a nave and two 
aisles, with arched ceilings ; a mullioned triforium gallery 
runs all round ; the clerestory windows are small and without 
tracery. The two lateral chapels alone, flanking the en¬ 
trance, are decorated in the Byzantine style ; that to the left is 
painted in compartments by Ronjat, with an Annunciation, 
and Prayers for the Dead, besides angels in the ceiling. The 
rest of the church is bare, the only canvass pictures here 
are, in the right transept, a Resurrection and a St. Nicholas ; 
in the left transept, an Annunciation. 

Returning to the exterior Boulevard, we arrive at 
Grenelle —A commune contiguous to the Seine, where it 
possesses a qare, or port for boats, with a bridge at one end, 
communicating with Auteuil (see p. 189.) Not far from this 
bridge is the important manufactory of Javel, for soap and 
chemical preparations, established in 177 G. 


448 


TWENTIETH WALK. 


TWENTIETH WALK. 

All that there is remarkable in the 16th and part of the 17 th 
arrondissements, having already been mentioned elsewhere 
(seepp. 189, 190), this walk, comprising the northern com¬ 
munes annexed to Paris, may commence with the latter part 
of the 17th arrondissement, containing 

Batignolles, under the old system an independent town. 
At No. 48, on the Boulevard des Batignolles, there is a Chapel 
for the Calvinist persuasion. By the rue Puteaux, we enter 
the rue des Dames, which leads to the Mairie of the 17 th ar¬ 
rondissement, a handsome building, flanked by two neat com¬ 
munal schools for boys and girls. The architect is M. Lequeux. 
Continuing eastwards, the 18th arrondissement comprises 
Montmartre —deriving its name from Mons Martis, because 
a temple of Mars existed on the hill in the time of theBomans. 
It is remarkable for its numerous windmills and guinguettes, 
and for its fine views of Paris and the surrounding country. 
The church, formerly belonging to the abbey of Montmartre, 
was founded by Louis YI. in 1100. Here, on the 15th of 
August, 1534, Ignatius Loyola founded the order of Jesuits. 
The quarries are famous for their plaster of Paris. The 
geological structure of this hill is highly interesting. Near its 
summit, 300 feet above the river, there is a reservoir supplied 
from the Seine by a steam-engine at St. Ouen. 

Adjoining the exterior Boulevard is the 
Cimetiere de Montmartre. —This was the first cemetery 
‘established outside the city, and was named Champ du Repo s. 
The path to the right, on entering, leads to some elegant 
tombs of Polish exiles ; in the principal avenue fronting the 
entrance, there is a lofty stone cross, behind which rises an 
eminence, where there is little to attract the eye. Here an 
avenue branches off to the left, meeting another further on at 
right angles. Here we see, towering above the surrounding 
tombs, a tasteful Gothic chapel belonging to the Lavalee family ; 
but the most prominent object to our right is a stone obelisk, 
surmounted by a cross, erected to the memory of a Duchess de 
Montmorency. Near it is the tomb of Prince Ernest of Saxe- 
Cobourg, who died at Paris in 1832. Along the same avenue, 
the following monuments deserve attention: Godard-Desma- 
rests, Cave-Lemaitre, Baronne de Plaisance, the Duchesse 
d’Abrantes, and those of the two celebrated performers, Nour- 
rit, long the chief ornament of the Grand Opera, and Mile. 
Jenny Colon, a sprightly actress and singer. Descending a 
flight of stairs at the end of this avenue, and ascending those 




CIMETIERE RE MONTMARTRE. 449 

bpposite, we find a beautiful bronze monument to Mieceslaus 
Kamienski, a Polish volunteer in the French army, who fell 
at Magenta (June 4, 1859) ; it is the finest monument in the 
cemetery. Next to this is the monument of Marshal Lannes, 
Due de Montebello. The Jewish cemetery contains a monu¬ 
ment to the celebrated composer Halevy. The English visitor 
will often meet with monumental inscriptions to the memory 
of his countrymen. 

The 19th arrondissement, des Buttes Chaumont, comprises 
La Chapelle St. Denis, a place where a pig-market is held 
every Thursday, and cows and calves are sold on other days. 
Here, on arriving at the spot where the Hopital Lariboisiere 
stands (see p. 234), the rue de la Charbonniere to the left 
leads to the rue d'Alger, where we see the new church of 

St. Bernard, a splendid Gothic structure, designed by M. 
Magne. An elaborate projecting porch, with crockcted pin¬ 
nacles, rises in front of a gabled facade flanked with octagonal 
turrets, behind which is seen a noble spire, encircled at half 
its altitude by the Grown of Thorns. Flying buttresses, 
fronted with pinnacles, complete the design on the sides. The 
bas-reliefs over the doors of the transepts, by Perrey, represent 
the Resurrection and the Crowning of the Virgin. The organ, 
by Cavaille-Coll, is composed of 1,484 pipes. Returning to 
the exterior Boulevard by the rue Jessaint and the Grande 
Rue, we find, in the same arrondissement. 

La Villette, divided by the Canal de l’Ourcq into two 
parts, the western one of which is called La Grande and the 
eastern La Petite Villette . We may follow the rue de 
Flandre until we reach the rue de Bordeaux to our right, 
which leads to the Place de I'Eglise. Fronting this, there is 
the Eglise de St. Jacques ct St. Chrislophc, with a Corinthian 
facade. The interior is Doric ; the choir is semicircular ; its 
cupola is painted in fresco, by Bremond, with the seven Car¬ 
dinal Virtues ; on the lateral walls are the martyrdoms of the 
two patron saints, and several biblical subjects by the same 
artist on the frieze round the nave, and in the aisles. On 
either side of this church are two neat buildings for Ecoles 
Primaires. There is also an Infant-school close by. From 
the Place de l’Lglise a Venetian bridge crosses the canal. The 
visitor should pause awhile at the top to enjoy the view of the 
vast number of barges which fill the Bassin de la Villette to 
the south, and the arm of the canal to the north, which, with 
a stone bridge somewhat higher up, is tolerably picturesque. 
The two large buildings before him towards the port, connected 
by an iron bridge on the third story, are an Entrepot des 
Bids, The buildings consist of seven stories each, and each 

89 


450 TWENTIETH WALK. 

story contains a vast hall, filled with every species of grain. 
Trap-doors communicate with the canal below; the goods are 
raised by the aid of a steam-engine of 12-horse power. 

Proceeding further up the canal, we arrive at the new 

Abattoirs of Paris, lying between the two canals de 
l’Ourcq and de St. Denis, the rue de Flandrc, the Strasburg 
railway, and the fortifications. The whole space thus en¬ 
closed measures about 27 hectares (67 acres), now all covered 
with buildings. The principal entrance is in the rue de 
Flandre, by an elegant railing, 180 metres in length, and 
having eleven gates. There are now sixty-four pavilions 
in active operation. Some of these are reserved for stables 
where the cattle awaiting its doom is kept; the others are 
divided into ecliaudoirs, or large rooms, in which slaughtering 
is performed. The cleanliness which prevails throughout is ad¬ 
mirable. Every echaudoir is provided with a cock for water ; 
the stone floor is scrupulously scoured every time an animal 
has been killed, and the foul water runs off into sewers mea¬ 
suring a total length of not less than eight kilometres, and in¬ 
tersecting the ground in every direction. The ventilation in 
the ecliaudoirs leaves nothing to be desired. At the entrance 
to each there is a strong ring immoveably fixed in the ground. 
Through this ring the rope is made to pass, which has been 
previously secured to the horns of the ox to be slaughtered. 
The rope is now drawn tight by means of a pulley, and when the 
victim’s head has been thus forced down as much as possible, 
it receives the death-blow with a heavy club. There are 
moreover on the premises buildings called triperies, where 
tripe and calves’ feet are washed and boiled ; melting-houses 
for tallow, with attics for drying skins, lofts for fodder, &c. 
Cattle and sheep are kopt here at the butcher's expense ; the 
meat is taken to the shops during the night before 4 o’clock 
a.m., and the men are not allowed to appear in the streets 
of Paris in the clothes they wear at the abattoirs. The 
slaughtering»vary in amount here, but may be estimated at 
the weekly average of 2,000 oxen, 800 cows, 1,000 calves, 
and 10,000 sheep. The establishment is superintended by a 
resident inspector of police, and a market-inspector. Strangers 
are readily admitted on application at the porter’s lodge. A 
small fee is expected. 

On the opposite side of the Canal de FOurcq, there is the 
large new 

Cattle-market, replacing those of Sceaux and Poissy. 
Here the ground is covered with enormous sheds resting 
on cast-iron columns, in the taste of the Halles Centrales. 
It is one kilometre ( s /»ths of a mile) square, and enclosed with 


451 


PARC DE CHAUMONT. 

strong walls, having a handsome entrance in the rue 
d’AlIemagne. Every accommodation that modern experience 
has suggested is provided—offices, fountains, water for the 
cattle, stalls, pens, and storehouses. A railway in connec¬ 
tion with the Chemin de Fer de Ceinturc, runs round the 
market, so that cattle from any point in France can he 
brought in without any difficulty. From 5,000 to 0,000 
oxen, 15,000 to 20,000 sheep, 2,000 to 3,000 calves, and as 
many pigs can he easily accommodated. A communication 
by bridges connects the market with the new slaughter¬ 
houses, and with others, now in course of construction, for 
pork-butchers. 

Continuing along the rue de Marseille, and turning into the 
rue dc Meaux to our right, we find the rue de Puebla, a fine 
broad street, just completed, and skirting the beautiful 

Parc de Ciiaumont, extending over the hilly ground 
called Les Buttes Ciiaumont, which have given their name 
to the 19th arrondissement (1). The new park, now com¬ 
pletely railed in, is bordered on the east by the rues de Belle¬ 
ville and de la Villette, and on the south by a new boulevard 
which now connects the latter street with the rue de Puebla 
which, as stated, completes the enclosure. The whole 
ground, which comprises 25 hectares, may be taken in atone 
glance from the elegant balustrade skirting a portion of the 
new boulevard, and affording a splendid view of the whole 
country around. To our right we see in a deep ravine the 
railway round Paris passing through the park, where it dis- 

(l) This was but a few years ago the receptacle for all the 
night-soil of Paris, which was here transformed into llie manure 
called poudrette. This nuisance was done away with in 1 850, 
when M. Mary, a civil engineer, constructed a subterranean 
tunnel, ten kilometres in length, through which the offensive 
matter, amounting to 8,ooO hogsheads per day, is now conveyed 
to the forest of Bondy by means of forcing-pumps worked by a 
steam-engine. The cost of this contrivance is io8,ooOfr. per 
annum. Just outside the present park there is a mound called 
Montfaueon , which in former days was a place of execution, 
studded with gibbets; the bodies of the criminals were left to 
decay in a charnel bouse underneath. Not many years ago, 
there were slaughter-houses here for horses : these have now 
been transferred to a village called Les Verlus , where about 
20 ,ooo horses are killed per annum. In the case of those that 
are unfit for food, the skin is taken off, and all the rest is put 
into iron cylinders where it is exposed to the temperature of 
steam until all the gelatinous matter is extracted. The refuse 
is used for manure. Sound horse-flesh is now allowed to be 
sold for meat in certain butcher’s shops, on condition of its 
being labelled as such. It cos.'s about iu sous a lb. 



452 TWENTIETH WAtK. 

appears into the tunnel. Before ns we perceive the leading 
feature of the park : a craggy island cut out of the natural 
rock and surrounded by a fine sheet of water. The height 
of this solitary rock is upwards of 60 feet: it ends in a peak 
crowned with a belvidere of tasteful architecture commanding 
an excellent view of a large portion of the metropolis, and 
called the Temple of the Sibyl. This island is accessible on 
one side by a stone bridge, and on another by a suspension- 
bridge supported by rustic piers. Though rising abruptly 
from the water to a considerable height as we have said, the 
peak is not by far the highest point within the park, it being 
commanded by two hills to our left, while other smaller ones 
dot the ground here and there. In the valley there is a de¬ 
lightful grotto, the interior of which sparkles with stalac¬ 
tites and stalagmites. Further on to our left, there is a 
carriage-road spanned by a fine wrought-iron bridge giving 
access to the higher portions of the ground, which, we 
need not add, is intersected in every direction by gravelled 
paths, and planted with valuable trees and shrubs. This de¬ 
lightful park was originally stone quarries, and affords a 
surprising instance of the skill and taste which has converted 
a barren wilderness into an oasis of verdure. Strangers 
should not omit to visit it: the best way of getting there is 
to take a carriage by the hour. 

By the rue de Puebla we enter 

Belleville, celebrated for its guinguettes. It has a new 
reservoir containing 40,000 cubic metres of w r ater, and a 
fine square, tastefully laid out as a garden, and surrounded 
by a double row of lime-trees. In the rue de Paris we find 
the new Gothic church of 

St. Jean Baptiste —consecrated in 1859. This edifice, 
remarkable for its elegant design, has three entrances in front, 
separated by buttresses, and surmounted by an elegant gal¬ 
lery fronted with slender columns, above which rise two 
square towers with lancet-shaped windows and tall stone 
spires. The entrances have retiring arches resting on engaged 
columns, and their tympans are adorned with quaint bas- 
reliefs by Perrey, executed in the style of the 13 th century, 
with the figures as large as the houses and taller than the 
trees. In the way of imitation, we have seldom seen any¬ 
thing more ingeniously conceived. The central bas-relief il¬ 
lustrates, in compartments, the life and death of St. John the 
Baptist. That to the left represents God commanding Isaiah 
to prophecy the advent of Christianity, and as the prophet 
objects that his mouth is too impure for so holy a duty, an 
angel is sent to purify it by fire. The bas-relief to the right 
















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CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 


453 


represents St. John the Baptist’s descent to the limbus of hell, 
where he delivers mankind from the power of the Evil one by 
announcing the coming of Christ. Over the entrances of the 
transepts the bas-reliefs represent the Resurrection, and the 
Consecration of the Church, by Cardinal Morlot. The interior 
is cruciform, with a nave, two aisles, and side chapels, 
i Architects, MM. Lassus and Truchy. 

Returning to the Boulevard Exterieur by the rue de Paris, 
and continuing eastward, we find in the same arrondissement 
Menilmontant, where a reservoir containing 135,000 
cubic metres of water has now been constructed. This place 
was formerly a poor village built round a villa ( mesnil ), be¬ 
longing to a rich land-owner named Moudan. Here, in 1814, 
a desperate stand was made against the allies. In 1830 it 
became the cradle of St. Simonianism. In the rue des 
Couronnes, we find the new church of 

Notre Dame de la Croix , built at a cost of 2,500,000 fr. 
It covers 3,7 00 square metres of ground. A flight of stairs, 
similar to that of St. Vincent de Paule (see p. 234), leads to 
the porch, situated under a steeple 60 metres high, and 
fronted with four arches. The interior is cruciform, with a 
nave and two aisles. 

Returning to the exterior boulevards, the next commune is 
Charonne, in which the chief point of interest is the 
Cemetery of Pere La Ciiaise, Boulevard de Fontarabie.— 
This tract of ground, on the slope of a hill, situated to the 
north-east of Paris, bore the name of Champ VEvSque in the 
, earliest ages of the monarchy, and belonged to the Bishop 
of Paris. In the 14th century, a wealthy grocer, named 
Regnault, erected upon the ground a magnificent house, 
which the people called la Folie Regnault. After the death of 
Regnault, this mansion was bought by a female devotee, and 
presented to the community of the Jesuits in the rue St. Antoine. 
Louis XIV. authorised the Jesuits to call it Mont Louis, and, 
being much attached to Pere La Chaise, his confessor, appointed 
him superior thereof in 1705, when Mont Louis became the 
focus of Jesuitical power in France. On the suppression of 
j. the order, Mont Louis was sold to pay its creditors, and was ulti¬ 
mately purchased for 160,000 fr. by M. Frochot, prefect of the 
Seine, to be converted into a cemetery under the direction of 
Brongniart. It then contained 42 acres. Winding paths were 
formed, a wide road was opened to where the mansion of Pere 
La Chaise formerly stood, and cypresses and willows were 
mingled with the shrubs and fruit-trees. The ground was con¬ 
secrated in 1804 ; and on May 21st, of that year, the first grave 
was made. Its preseut extent is 212 acres, The beautiful 






464 TWENTIETH WALK. 

situation of this spot, surrounded by valleys and slopes, and 
commanding an extensive view over a picturesque and glowing 
landscape, makes it, particularly in summer, a favourite resort 
of strangers as well as of Parisians (1.) The number and 
costliness of its monuments, and the celebrated names it con¬ 
tains, will save it from the fate with which the other ceme¬ 
teries of Paris are menaced, in consequence of the extension 
of the capital to the fortifications, and although common in¬ 
terments may he discontinued here, Pere La Chaise will still 
remain the burial place of the celebrated men of Paris, and of 
those who possess family vaults here. Some of the monu¬ 
ments, of large dimensions and elegant architecture, re¬ 
present temples, sepulchral chapels, mausoleums, pyra¬ 
mids, and obelisks; others cippi, altars, urns, &c.; most 
of them are enclosed with iron railings, and adorned with 
flowers and shrubs; and retired seats are provided for 
the convenience and accommodation of kindred and friends. 
A subterranean canal, which conveyed water to the Maison 
de Mont Louis, still exists, and partly furnishes a supply 
to keep the plants and herbage in verdure. The gateway is 
placed in a semicircular recess, and is adorned with funereal 
ornaments, and scriptural quotations in Latin. (2). The divi¬ 
sions on the right and left of the avenue opposite the en¬ 
trance present nothing worth noticing, but a grass-plot at its 
extremity, encompassed by a gravel walk, is replete with 
objects of interest. To the left we see the monument of the 
celebrated architect Visconti, a white marble sarcophagus, 

(1) In 1814, ■while the Allies were approaching Paris, formi¬ 
dable batteries were established in the cemetery of Pcre La 
Chaise, which commands the plain extending to Vincennes. The 
walls were pierced with loop-holes. The pupils of the school of 
Alfort occupied it on the soth of March, and successfully re¬ 
sisted two attacks of Russian troops detached by General Bar¬ 
clay de Tolly. On the third attack, however, the Russians made 
themselves masters of the cemetery, and their possession of the 
batteries hastened the surrender of the village of Charonne. 
Paris having capitulated the same evening, the Russians bivou¬ 
acked in the cemetery, and cut down many of the trees for fuel. 
In 4 815, while the forces of the allies surrounded Paris a second 
time, interments were temporarily suspended here. 

( 2 ) The stranger will do well to compare the following de¬ 
scription of the monuments with the annexed plan; the arrows 
marked in the paths will point out the direction he ought to 
follow in order to find the most interesting monuments as they 
occur in the description; he might otherwise lose much time in 
fruitless search. Most of the tombs marked in the plan are 
remarkable for their costliness, design, or execution; others 
have merely been put down as convenient landmarks. 


CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 455 

with his statue in a reclining posture; in his hand he holds 
the plan of the New Louvre, his principal work. The whole 
is surrounded with monumental parapets. Next to this is the 
tomb of the Sculptor Dantan, remarkable for its tasteful sculp¬ 
ture ; then follow the tombs of Poinsot, the great mathemati¬ 
cian, and of Alfred de Musset, the poet: in obedience to his 
wish, expressed in one of his fugitive pieces, a weeping willow, 
brought from La Plata, has been planted in his enclosure. 
In the path opposite to these, an iron railing marks the grave 
of the illustrious Arago. The first avenue to the right con¬ 
tains some handsome monuments, and leads to the Bureaux 
des Benseignements and de Surveillance et des Inscriptions, 
and to the Jewish cemetery, separated from the Christian por¬ 
tion by a wall, and containing the tomb of Mile. Rachel, the 
celebrated actress, close to the entrance. Returning hence to 
the Christian cemetery, and turning into the road to the right, 
a path contiguous to the Dupuis and Echard vault leads to the 
most interesting monument in the cemetery, the tomb of Abelard 
and Heloisa, who died in 1142 and 1164 respectively. It con¬ 
sists of a rectangular chapel of the Saxon style of the thirteenth 
century, formed by M. Lenoir out of the ruins of the cele¬ 
brated abbey of the Paraclete, founded by Abelard, and of 
which Ileloisa was the first abbess. It is 14 feet in length by 
11 in breadth ; and its height is 24. An open-worked crocketcd 
pinnacle 6 feet in elevation rose out of the cruciform roof, and 
four smaller ones, exquisitely sculptured, stood between the 
gables, but owing to their ruinous state these have now been 
removed. Fourteen columns, six feet in height, with rich foli- 
aged capitals, support trifoliate arches with open spandrils sur¬ 
mounted by cornices wrought in flowers. The gables of the four 
fronts are pierced with trifoliate windows, and decorated with 
sculptured figures, roses, and medallions of Abelard and Heloisa. 
In this chapel is the tomb built for Abelard, by Peter the Vene¬ 
rable, at tiie priory of St. Marcel. He is represented, in a re¬ 
cumbent posture ; by his side is the statue of Heloisa. The bas- 
reliefs round this sarcophagus represent the fathers of the church. 
At the foot on one side of the tomb are inscriptions relating to 
the two lovers ; and at the corners are four others stating the 
origin of the monument, its removal, and its erection in the 
Musee des Monuments Francais, whence it was transported to 
Perc La Chaise. 

Returning to the broad avenue, the visitor will soon arrive 
at the Bond Point, in the middle of which stands a beautiful 
monument erected by public subscription to the memory of 
Casimir Perier, Prime Minister in 1832, consisting of an 
excellent statue of that statesman placed on a lofty and richly 


456 TWENTIETH WALKi 

decorated pedestal and basement. The first path to the right 
leads to a part of the cemetery in which among others is the 
tomb of the brave but ill-fated Labedoyere. 

Returning to the Rond Point, the principal road winding round 
the foot of the hill should be followed. Rehind the tomb of 
Andrieux stands that of Laromiguiere, the illustrious professor 
of philosophy. Next follows that of Marshal Kellermann, 
Due de Valmy, and towering above us, on the brow of the 
hill, we perceive the costly monument of Countess Demidolf, 
resting on a vast basement of sculptured masonry, which is 
here accessible by a double-branched flight of stairs. The 
monument itself consists of 10 Doric columns of white marble, 
supporting an entablature, under which is a sarcophagus sur¬ 
mounted by a cushion, bearing the arms and coronet of the 
deceased. Continuing along the road, we find the tombs of 
Mademoiselle Duchesnois, the tragic actress; of General 
Gouvion St. Cyr, with his statue, by David d’Angers, 
and that of General Macdonald; those of Count Lava- 
lette, with a bas-relief representing his flight from prison ; 
and of the celebrated surgeon, Dupuytren. A path to the 
right leads to a mound commanding a delightful view over 
Vincennes; the best monuments here are those of Count de 
Rigny, Charbonnet, and Salligny. Here also lies Scribe, the 
distinguished dramatic author. Returning to the principal 
avenue, the tomb that will first meet the eye is the sepul¬ 
chral column of Viscount deMartignac, celebrated for his noble 
and touching defence, in 1830, of Prince Polignac, formerly 
his political enemy; and in the adjoining path to the left 
the visitor will find himself among many of the great names of 
France ;—Marshal Suchet, in beautiful white marble, richly 
ornamented with bas-reliefs of fine execution by David d’An¬ 
gers ; Marshal Lefebvre, a sarcophagus of white marble, with 
his bust; Marshal Massena, Prince d’Essling, a pyramid of 
white marble, 21 feet in height, with his portrait in bas- 
relief ; the Duke Deeres, a monument of large dimensions, on 
which two bas-reliefs represent naval actions with the Eng¬ 
lish ; and not far from these, behind the tomb of Rourke, the 
modest tomb of the novelist, Madame Cottin, consisting of a 
small pyramid of white marble, and of David d’Angers, the 
eminent sculptor, often noticed here ; a simple sarcophagus 
on a plain basement. Next to it are the graves of Hue, the 
faithful attendant of Louis XVI., and of the Abbe Sicard, di¬ 
rector of the Deaf and Dumb Institution. Returning to the former 
path, we see the tombs of Marshal Davoust, Prince d’Eckmuhl, 
a sarcophagus of granite; Reaumarchais, the dramatist; and 
opposite, Winsor, the originator of public gas-lighting; Baron 


CEMETERY OF PfeRE LA CHAISE. 45? 

Larrey, the surgeon of Napoleon I., and the splendid monument 
in white marble of Gen. Gobert, due to the chisel of David d’An- 
gers: the equestrian statue of the general rests on a basement 
adorned with four spirited bas-reliefs representing passages of 
his military career. A few steps further on is an iron railing, 
enclosing the remains of the unfortunate Marshal Ney; no 
monument nor inscription marks the place, hut the ground is 
laid out as a small garden. Following the path to the right, 
we find the tomb of Benjamin Constant, and facing it, that of 
General Foy, erected by national subscription, consisting of 
a temple with a marble statue, by David, of the general in 
a Roman costume, in the act of speaking. Beranger, the 
poet, who died July 17th, 1857, lies here in the same tomb 
with Manuel the orator ; further on, Admiral Bruat, killed 
on his return from the Crimea: Glory contemplating his 
trophies, by Maindron. Next is Geoffroy St. Hilaire, the na¬ 
tural philosopher. At the corner of a side-path, we find the 
monument of Pradier, the great sculptor, and, on turning to the 
right, those of Leon Faucher, a member of the National As¬ 
semblies of 1848 and 1849, and afterwards a Minister; La¬ 
place, the great astronomer: a tomb of white marble, from 
which rises an obelisk surmounted by an urn, ornamented 
with a star encircled by palm branches, and inscriptions al¬ 
luding to his works. Moliere, a sarcophagus of stone, sup¬ 
ported by four columns and surmounted by a vase ; and, 
within the same railing, La Fontaine, a cenotaph, crowned by 
a fox in black marble, and ornamented with two bas-reliefs in 
bronze, one representing the fable of the wolf and the stork, 
and the other the wolf and the lamb; next, Moratin, the 
Spanish dramatist; Gay-Lussac, the great chemist; the Mar¬ 
quis de Clermont-Gallerande, who, on the memorable 10th of 
August, placed himself between Louis XVI. and the mob, to 
defend his sovereign; Madame de Genlis, (a sarcophagus with 
her bust in a medallion,) and Junot, Due d’Abrantes. 

Returning hence, we shall reach one of the main avenues 
which lead to the brow of the hill, and in front of which we 
perceive the superb monument of M. Aguado, the great finan¬ 
cier, consisting of a richly-sculptured sarcophagus in white 
marble, by Ramus; at the sides are two line statues of Benevo¬ 
lence and the Fine Arts; two angels support his escutcheon. 
The main avenue, right and left, is studded with monuments 
of great taste and excellent execution. Turning eastwards, a 
path to our left leads to an avenue parallel to the former. 
Here we may see the tomb of the celebrated Volney (a quad¬ 
rangular pyramid), and numerous English names, such as 
Admiral Sydney Smith, Luscombe, &c. That of the Prince of 


TWENTIETH WALK. 


458 

Masserano is the last worthy of attention on this side. Pro¬ 
ceeding westwards, we find a square enclosure reserved for 
Mussulmans, with a small mosque in the Moorish style, de¬ 
signed by Yely Pasha, the Turkish ambassador. The Queen 
and elder Prince of Oude are interred here. Next follows, to 
our left, a handsome mausoleum erected to the memory of 
Mad. de Diaz Santos, daughter of the Duchess de Duras, and a 
very lofty pyramid, erected to the memory of M. Beaujour, 
one of the most conspicuous objects in the cemetery. Descend¬ 
ing hence to the left, will be found the monuments of Uonore 
de Balzac, the celebrated novelist, and Casimir Delavigne, the 
illustrious poet. In the adjoining compartment we perceive 
the splendid mausoleum of the late lamented Due de Moray, 
by M. Viollet-Leduc. Further down, near the chapel, is the 
tomb of De Seze, an advocate, the intrepid defender of 
Louis XVI. (1) 

The chapel of the cemetery is a plain Doric building, about 
50 feet by 28 in length and breadth, and 56 feet in height. In 
front of it is an open grass plot, from whence the eye ranges 
over Paris. Eastward of the chapel there is a spot devoted 
to theatrical, musical and poetical celebrities, such as Talma, 
Grelry, Boieldieu, Delisle, Bellini, Rubini, Sec. (2) 

On leaving this cemetery, a few steps along the rue de la 
Roquelte before us, the upper end of which is filled with shops 
of dealers in tombs and funeral garlands, bring us to the 
Depot dcs Condamnds and the late prison for juvenile of¬ 
fenders (see pp. 7 9, 80.) In front of these prisons the guil¬ 
lotine (3) is erected whenever an execution takes place. 

(1) Since the opening ofthis cemetery notlessthan 5 millions 
sterling have been expended in monuments. The number of 
tombs is upwards of 16 , 000 . 

( 2 ) Omnibuses leave the Place du Palais Royal and the Made¬ 
leine for the Place de la Bastille where a correspondance for Pth’e 
La Chaise may be had every quarter of an hour (see p. 7). 

(3) In 1790 Dr. Guillotin moved that persons condemned to 
death should be beheaded; and he hinted it might be done by 
a machine ; but it was M. Antoine Louis, Secretary to the Aca¬ 
demy of Surgery, who, on the 7th of March, 1792 , in a report to 
the National Assembly, briefly described a machine of the Kind, 
which he said was used in England ! The truth is, the Museum 
of the Scottish Society of Antiquaries at Edinburgh still pre¬ 
serves the invention of the Earl of Morion, Regent of Scotland. 
It was called “ Morton’s Maiden,” and hears the strongest re¬ 
semblance to the guillotine. The latter was first, used on the 
27th of May, 1792 . Executions in France take place at a very 
early hour in the morning, so as to avoid as much as possible 
the assembling of a crowd to witness these horrible exhibitions. 


THEATRES. 


459 


Between this spot and the Place du Trone the exterior Bou¬ 
levard presents nothing of interest. Of the portion beyond suf¬ 
ficient has been said elsewhere (seepp. 279, 280). 



III. 


PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 


THEATRES. 


The drama in France and England took its rise from the 
mysteries, or sacred dramas, represented by the pilgrims re¬ 
turned from the Holy Land. In Paris a company was formed 
in the reign of Charles VI., under the name of Confreres de la 
Passion, who for a long period performed with applause, al¬ 
though with sacred subjects they associated indecent gestures 
and allusions. The interest excited by the novelty of their 
representations having subsided, they united with a new troop 
called Enfants sans souci, who acted farces enlivened with 
songs. About the year 157 0, several Italian companies came 
to Paris, but their representations exciting the jealousy of the 
Confreres de la Passion, whose privileges were always re¬ 
spected by the Parlement, their continuance was not of long 
duration. Shortly afterwards the French stage began to ac¬ 
quire a degree of consequence which it had never before attained, 
and several dramatic writers, among them Hardy, appeared 
about the time of Henry IV. Cardinal Richelieu had two 
theatres in his palace, in which tragediesand melodramas com¬ 
posed by himself, with the assistance of Corneille, Rotrou, 
Colletet, and others, were performed. About the year 1650, a 
number of young men, at the head of whom was Moliere, formed 
a company and erected a theatre, which they called “ le 
Theatre Illustre .” In 1658, they performed in the Salle des 
Gardes at the Louvre before Louis XIV., who, being satisfied 
with their performance, assigned them a gallery in the Hotel 
du Petit Bourbon as a theatre. In 1660, they removed to the 
Theatre du Palais Royal, built by Cardinal Richelieu, and as¬ 
sumed the title of “ la Troupe Royale.” (1) Under the reigns 
of Louis XV. and XVI., the number of theatres in Paris greatly 
increased. The privileges of the French comedians and of 

(l) For much interesting information upon the early dramatic 
history of France, see History of Paris, 3 vols. svo. 




460 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

the Opera (1) being abolished during the first revolution, 
a great number of smaller ones sprang up, and the consequence 
was that they were all reduced to the utmost distress. To re¬ 
medy this state of things, Napoleon in 1807 suppressed all the 
theatres in Paris, except nine, on a compensation being made 
to the others. After the Restoration, several new ones were 
opened, and the drama was encouraged by the government. 
After the revolution of 1830, and during the reign of King 
Louis Philippe the number of theatres was slightly increased. 
The French tragic school has declined since the death of Mile. 
Rachel in 18 58, and it is only by comedy the national theatre 
now sustains its pre-eminence (2.) 

Since the 1st of July, 1864, all privileges of theatres have 
been suppressed, and any person may open a theatre on 
making a declaration to that effect to the Minister of the Fine 
Arts, the Prefect of Police, and the Prefect of the department. 
Some theatres receive a subvention from the State: the 
French Opera receives 820,000 fr. in consideration of the per¬ 
fection which it is expected to attain ; the Theatre Francais 
240,000 fr. as an encouragement for classical comedy; the 

(1) The invention of the Opera is attributed to two Florentines, 
Ottavio Rinucci, a poet, and Giacomo Corsi, a musician, about 
the commencement of the 16 th century, when a grand lyric 
spectacle entitled the Amours of Apollo and Circe was first played 
with success at the court of the Grand Dul<e of Tuscany. It was 
introduced into France by Cardinal Mazarin, and in 1669 letters 
patent were granted to the abb6 Perrin to establish academies of 
music in France. The opening of the Academie in Paris took 
place in May 1 671, with an Opera called Pomona, the words by the 
abbe Perrin, the music by GamLert, an organist. The first mu¬ 
sicians and singers of the grand Opera were taken from the 
cathedrals, principally from Languedoc. In 1762 the privi¬ 
lege was transferred to Lully, under whose direction, and the 
poetical co-operation of Quinault, it acquired the vogue which 
it has maintained up to the present day. 

(2) M. Rondot states that in France forty itinerant companies 
do duty for no less than 280 theatres, 45 only being provided 
with stationary troupes . Three departments of the south have 
no theatre whatever, viz. Loz&re, Basses-Alpes, and Ard&ehe. 
The number of actors and actresses in France is variously estimated 
at from 3,ooo to 8,ooo. Under Louis XIII. there was only one 
theatre in the capital, for M. Rondot does not reckon as such the 
booths of Gros-lten6 and Gautier-Garguille; under Louis X1Y. 
they increased to five; there were six under Louis XV., and un¬ 
der his ill-fated successor ten were in full play. In 1791 ,all mo¬ 
nopolies having been abolished, 51 sprung up all at once; but, 
in 1806 , we find them decreased to 34. Paris enjoyed lotheatrcs 
from 1810 to 1814, 16 in 1 83 1 , and upwards of 40 since 1864 . 
The number of pleasure-seekers in Paris at ail places of public 


THEATRES. 461 

Opera Comique the same to encourage the lighter styles of na¬ 
tional music; the Theatre Lyrique, 100,000 fr. ; the Odeon, 
100,000 fr.; the Conservatoire and its branch establishments 
in the departments, 222,000 fr. A sum of 137,000 fr. is 
moreover allotted for encouragement to authors and artists, 
and a Ministerial decree of 1867 provides that the French 
Opera and Opera Comique shall every year offer a libretto to 
be competed for by young artists desirous of distinguishing 
themselves as composers. They appoint the umpires and the 
successful piece is played at the respective theatre within the 
year. At the first competition 168 were sent in. (1) 

The rights of French dramatic authors are well secured. 
They receive during life, for a piece of 3 or 5 acts, one-18th, 
and for a piece of 1 act, one-36th of the gross receipts ; and the 
same benefit devolves to their heirs for a period of 30 years. (2) 
Two prizes of 3,000 fr. and two of 3,000 fr. are also annually 
awarded by Government to the four best pieces represented 
during the year. The French stage, though now bereft of the 
talent of Meyerbeer, Ponsard, and Scribe, still possesses St. 
Georges, Victor Hugo, and Dumas. 

Till the reign of Louis XIV. female characters were per¬ 
formed by men in women’s attire (3); and till a much later 

amusement is estimated at 60,000 daily. From 1807 to ls 11 the 
receipts of the metropolitan theatres averaged five millions of 
francs; in 1866 they rose to 19 , 168 ,4ts francs, and in 1867, 
owing to the Great Exhibition, to 26 , 000,000 francs. The lowest 
salary at a Paris theatre is 25 fr. per month. 

( 1 ) All places of public amusement pay 10 per cent, of their 
receipts to the Assistance Publique (3ee page 1 38). The sums 
paid by the theatres of Paris last year, were as follows: 
— Grand Opera, 99,023 francs; Theatre Fran$ais, 58,126 
francs; Op<$ra Comique, 109,064 fr.; Italiens, 43,950 fr.; Oddon, 
32,n5 fr.; Theatre Lyrique, 49,904 fr.; Gymnase, 74,640 fr.; 
Vaudeville, 61,465 fr.; Varies, 51,710 fr.; Palais Royal, 51,851 
francs; Gait<5, 53,385 fr.; Ambigu Comique, 52,610 fr.; Porte Saint 
Martin, 78,777 fr.; and Cirque, 68,969 fr. 

( 2 ) The number of new pieces brought out at the different 
theatres of Paris averages about 250 a-year. The amount of 
authors’ receipts was 1,872,800 fr. in 1867 . 

( 3 ) Mine. Favart, an eminent actress of the last century, was 
the first, to infringe the absurd custom of playing Achilles in a 
court dress with a helmet over his wig, and Clytemnestra in a 
hoop. She appeared for the first time in Bastien et Bastienne, a 
play of her own composition, in the real costume of a peasant, 
without curls and with wooden shoes. She was generally cri¬ 
ticized for it, but the Abbe Voisenon took her part, saying: 
Messieurs , ces sabots donneront des souliers aux comediens. All the 
rehearsals now take place en costume. 


4 62 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

period all characters were played in the dress of the court of 
“ le grand monarque.” Talma first gave that correctness of 
taste to the French stage for which it is now so celebrated; and 
ever since his day there are to be found, and especially now, 
at the great theatres of Paris, accurate and animated tableaux 
vivants of the times and costumes, &c., relating to the 
pieces. The theatres of Paris are well regulated, policemen and 
guards are stationed at all the doors, and preserve order in 
the interior. The visitors who await the opening of the doors 
are arranged in files of two or three abreast, called a 
queue ; and although the crowd consists of several hundred, 
but little inconvenience is felt, and every person is admitted 
in his turn. Such, indeed, is the ardour for theatrical amuse¬ 
ments exhibited by the population of Paris, that a crowd, or 
queue as it is commonly called, may always be found at 
the door of any popular theatre a long while before the 
time of admission. Persons who proceed to theatres in hired 
cabriolets, or fiacres, are required to pay the fare beforehand, 
to avoid delay at the door. No person is permitted to call 
his carriage until he is actually waiting for it at the door; 
and should the owner not step into it at the moment, it is 
ordered off by the police, to make way for another. The pit 
of French theatres is generally appropriated to men alone, but 
some of the minor ones admit women. The best place for 
gentlemen is the orchestre, or row of stalls immediately be¬ 
hind the musicians, and next to this is, in general, the more 
fashionable balcon, on the side of the first row of boxes, which 
last are for the most part small, holding from 4 to G persons. 
The best places when withladies, and when a box is not taken, 
are the stalks de balcon. In many of the theatres a 
small gallery extends round the front of each tier; these are 
called the galeries, and though good places, and cheaper than 
the boxes, are not so comfortable. The galleries above, called 
amphitheatre, or paradis, are frequented by the lower orders, 
and are the cheapest places of the house. The French names 
of places for which the visitor should ask are the following : 
loges means boxes; baignoires, boxes on the pit tier; de face, 
front; de cdte, side; parterre, pit. On taking places before¬ 
hand, for the advantage of choosing and securing them, about 
one-fourth more is paid than at the doors ; an injudicious mea¬ 
sure, since it hinders many people from following that course. 
There are men who, notwithstanding the prohibition of the 
police, purchase tickets wholesale from the directors of the the¬ 
atres, or else, on a new piece anxiously expected coming out, 
forestall the public by buying up at the door nearly all the 
tickets for the best places, and then sell them outside to the 


THEATRES. 4 63 

public; in the former case, at lower prices than are paid at the 
doors; in the latter, at any price they choose to ask. 

We would recommend the visitor to go to all the theatres, 
as he will nowhere in so short a time obtain a better know¬ 
ledge of the manners and character of the French people. 

The Academie Imperiale de Musique, or French Opera- 
House, is a temporary building, erected in the space of a year, 
by M. Debret, architect, to replace, as speedily as possible, the 
opera-house then in the rue de Richelieu, at the door of which 
the Duke de Berri was assassinated, in 1820—the Government 
having ordered its demolition in consequence (seep. 221). 
It communicates with three streets—the rue Lepelletier for 
carriages, rue Rossini for fiacres, and rue Drouot for per¬ 
sons on foot. Two passages, skirted with shops, also form 
a communication with the Boulevard Italien. The front con¬ 
sists of a series of arcades on the ground floor, forming a double 
vestibule. At each end a wing projects, and between these 
wings, from the top of the arcades, is a light awning supported 
by cast-iron pillars, beneath which carriages set down. On the 
first floor is a range of nine arcades, combining the ionic and 
Doric orders, which form the windows of the saloon. The 
elevation of the front is 64 feet. The second or interior vesti¬ 
bule is ornamented with Doric columns, and on each side of it 
is a staircase leading to the first row of boxes and the saloon. 
From the lobby two other staircases lead to the pit, the bai¬ 
gnoires, and the orchestra. Between the latter and the lobbies 
of the stage boxes are two staircases leading to the top of the 
building, and so numerous are the outlets, that the house may 
be cleared in fifteen minutes. The interior will accommodate 
1,800 persons; its dimensions are 60 feet from side to side, 
with a stage 42 feet in breadth by 82 in depth. The space for 
machinery underneath the latter is 32 feet deep; the wall be¬ 
tween the house and the stage rises above the roof, and in case 
of fire the communication between the two can be entirely cut 
off by a curtain of wire-gauze, while ventilators carry the 
flames in any given direction. Reservoirs of water are placed 
under the roof. The saloon or foyer is 186 feet in length, ex¬ 
tending throughout the breadth of the building, and is one of 
the finest in Paris. Here is a bronze statue of Mercury invent¬ 
ing the lyre, cast from a model by Duret (1). This theatre 
receives a subvention of 100,000 fr. from the Civil List in 
addition to that of the State. The singers are pupils of the 

( 1 ) The original of this statue, executed in marble by that 
sculptor, had been bought by the civil list in 1 830, and placed in 
the Palais Royal, where it was destroyed by the mob on the ‘2 4th 
of February, is is. 




464 PLACES OP PUBttC AMUSEMENT. 

Conservatoire, and the corps de ballet consists of the most 
distinguished dancers of the day. Gfeat attention is paid to 
costume and general effect ; crinoline is forbidden on the 
stage. The scenic department especially has long been re¬ 
nowned as almost unrivalled at any other theatre in Europe, 
and the coup-d’ceil here presented by the stage in some of 
the more gorgeous operas and ballets is unequalled for 
taste and magnificence (l). A new system of stage lighting, 
invented by Professor Lissajous, has lately been adopted 
here. The float is placed 2% feet below the boards, and 
the emanations of the burners are carried off through two 
pipes reaching to the top of the roof. The luminous rays col¬ 
lected by a double reflector are transmitted to the stage through 
a sloping aperture, covered with a plate of dull glass, so that 
all danger of the actresses’ dresses catching fire is obviated, and 
the light is not injurious to the eyes. Performances on Mon¬ 
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and sometimes on Sundays. 

Prices of Admission .— Premieres Loges de face, 12 fr. Stalles 
d’Amphitheatre, 12 fr. Stalles d’Orchestre, 10 fr. Premieres 
loges de c6t<$, 8 fr. Deuviemes loges de cdt£, 7 fr. Troisiemes 
loges de face,ofr. Troisiemes loges de cot<i et quatriemes deface, 
4 fr. Parterre, 5 fr.—Performances begin between 7 and 8. 

Italian Opera, rue Marsollier.—This company occupied the 
Salle Favart, now the Opera Comique, boulevard des Italiens, 
until its destruction by fire in 1838. The performances were 
subsequently transferred to the Salle Ventadour, then to the 

( 1 ) By a decree of the 29th of June, 1854, the Academic de 
Musique was declared to be an institution belonging to the 
State, and the performers were accordingly obliged to consent 
to a stoppage of 5 per cent, on their salaries in favour of a 
superannuation fund, as is the case with other Government 
functionaries. To this fund were added: the produce of 
all fines for breach of discipline, &c.; the amount of all 
judicial condemnations given in favour of the theatre; the 
produce of two representations to be given annually at the 
Opera; an annual grant of 20,000 fr. from the Civil List; and 
donations and legacies bequeathed to the fund. The singers, 
dancers, and personnel of the ballets had a right to their pension 
after 20 years’ service; the chief of the orchestra, ballet-master, 
chefs du chant, and chief machinist, after 20 years and at 50 
years of age; professors, accompanists, musicians, choristers, 
and machinists, after 25 years and 50 years of age; and all others 
after 30 years and go years of age. This system has, however, 
been abolished by a decree of March, 1866 : the Grand Opera 
has again become a private speculation, and the pensions are 
only maintained for those performers who belonged to the 
establishment under the former arrangement. 



THEATRES. 465 

Odeon, and have now again been removed to the former theatre. 
The present building was erected on the site of the hotel oc¬ 
cupied by the Minister of Finance, after the designs of Messrs. 
Huve and de Guerchy; it is 154 feet in length by 11 o in breadth. 
The principal front, which is Doric and Ionic, is divided into 
two stories, crowned by an attic. Above the entablature, and 
in front of the attic, are eight statues of the Muses, Urania being 
omitted. Blank arcades, continued along the sides and back 
of the building, support the upper story with its balustraded 
windows. The interior of the theatre, which is semicircular, 
contains four tiers, of which the two first are double, having 
open boxes in front, and partitioned ones behind. The balcons 
and orchestra are divided into ranges of stalls, each forming an 
arm-chair. The ceiling, painted by Ferri, in lozenge-shaped 
compartments, represents a cupola, through which a blue sky 
appears. The figures which support it are by Klagmann. In 
the foyer, or lobby, there is a fine bust of Lablache, the 
celebrated buffo, by Etex. This theatre holds 2000 persons. 
The performances, which are of the highest merit, take place 
on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and sometimes on 
Mondays or Sundays. The season lasts only seven months, 
generally from the 1st of October to the 30th of April. 

Admission. — Premieres loges, t s ft*. Fauteuils d’orchestre, et 
de Balcon, isfr. Secondes de face, i2fr. Secondes de c6t6, 
9 fr. Troisi6mes, 7 fr. Parterre, 10 fr.— Performances begin at 8. 

Theatre de l’Opera Comique, Place des Italiens.—The 
front is adorned with a portico of six Ionic columns, and the 
edifice, almost entirely of stone and iron, is fire-proof. The 
interior is elliptical, with three tiers of boxes. Around the pit 
are baignoires, some arranged as boxes, the others as stalls. 
Above is a first and second gallery, the former with two rows 
of stalls. The house is built for 1800 spectators. The seats of 
the pit are so placed that the spectator’s eye is on a level with 
the stage. To every second box is attached a small saloon, afford¬ 
ing an agreeable retreat between the acts from the heat of the 
theatre. A bell from each enables the visitors to summon at¬ 
tendants with ices and refreshments, without the trouble of 
leaving the box. The decorations are white and gold, with 
ornaments in relief, in copper, richly gilt. The ceiling is of 
good execution, containing the portraits of Boieldieu, Gretry, 
and other composers, in various medallions. A large foyer, of 
Corinthian architecture, decorated in the same style as the 
house, and furnished with divans, is on the first floor behind 
the boxes. Here are the busts of Gretry, Berton, Sedaine, 
Marmontel, Nicolo, Boieldieu, Herold, Marsollier, Dalayrac, 
Monsigny, St, Just, Mehul, Favart, Etienne, and Madame de 

so 



466 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

Girardin. The light agreeable character of the music, which for¬ 
merly distinguished the Optra Comique, has given place of late 
years to a more elaborate style, more scientific, perhaps, but less 
popular ; Auber and Halevy, however, preserve the ancient 
character of this school. In the cellars there is a ventilating 
apparatus for a supply of fresh air, cooled by ice, the 
vitiated atmosphere finding egress through the ceiling. Stage 
lighting, however, still remains in this, as well as in the other 
theatres below, in its primitive state ; the obnoxious board 
which conceals the foot-lights from the spectator, as well as 
the feet of the actors, being still retained, instead of the much 
more rational system followed in England since the very be¬ 
ginning of this century, by which the foot-lights are screened 
by semi-cylindrical shades, through the interstices of which 
the stage may be seen without hindrance. The streets around 
are flagged with bitumen to deaden the noise of carriages. 

Admission .—Premieres Loges avec Salon, Avant-scenes du rez- 
de-chauss6e, 8 fr. Fauteuils de Balcon, Premieres loges sans 
salon, 7fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 7 fr. Baignoires, 6fr. Deuxiemes 
loges, 5 fr. Slalles d’orcliestre, 4 fr. Deuxiemc Galerie, 3 fr. 
Parterre, 2 fr. 50 c.—Performances begin at about 7 . 

Theatre Franc,ais, or Comedie Frangaise, Rue Richelieu, 
at the Palais Royal, was begun by the Duke of Orleans, in 
1787, after the designs of Louis. It is 166 feet in length by 105 
in breadth, and its total height, to the summit of the terrace, 
is 100 feet. The principal front, towards the rue Richelieu, 
presents a Doric peristyle; facing the rue de Montpensier, and 
partly attached to the Palais Royal, a range of arcades, resting 
on pilasters, and continued round the corner, forms a covered 
gallery. On both fronts is a range of Corinthian pilasters, 
with an entablature pierced by small windows. From the ves¬ 
tibule an elegant staircase leads up to the foyer, which has re¬ 
cently been enlarged by the whole width of the new portico 
towards the rue St. Ilonore. The new foyer is a splendid 
saloon, decorated along the sides with sixteen fluted pilasters 
supporting the salient arches of the vaulted ceiling. At one 
end of the room is a monumental marble chimney-piece sur¬ 
mounted by the Emperor’s bust. Opposite, on a pedestal of 
blue-tinted marble, is Iloudon’s famous statue of Voltaire, 
which used to stand in the middle of the old vestibule towards 
the rue Richelieu. The foyer, and an adjoining gallery, con¬ 
tain numerous busts of distinguished French dramatists, among 
which are one of Diderot, by Lescorne, and another of Mile. 
Mars, by David d’Angers. There are also here : an original por¬ 
trait of Moliere, by Mignard, purchased for 6,500 fr., and one 
of Mile. Rachel, by Gerome. An interesting collection of various 


THEATRES. 467 

objects connected with Moliere and other celebrities of the 
French drama exists here. The interior form of the house is 
elliptical; and the total number of places is 1300. The per¬ 
formances at this theatre, which is the standard one of the 
whole country, used to he limited to the highest style of 
tragedy and regular comedy. Some relaxation of this rule 
has, however, taken place by the admission of the productions 
of MM. Victor Hugo, Dumas, Scribe, 8cc., which, with all 
their merits, are certainly not equal to the old masters. 

Admission. — Avant-sefmes des Premieres, io francs. Loges 
du Rez-de-Chaussee, Loges du premier rang, 8 fr. Loges du 
deuxi&me rang, Fauleuils de Balcon, 7 fr. Loges du deuxieme 
rang decouvertes, Fauteuilsd’Orchestre, 5 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 50 c. 
—Begins between 7 and 8. 

Theatre Imperial de l’Odeon. —This theatre was built 
in 1779. It was burnt down in 1799, and rebuilt in 1807. 
The interior was a second time destroyed by fire in 1818, but 
repaired in 1820. The exterior is 168 feet in length 112 in 
breadth, and 64 in height. The principal front is ornamented 
with a portico of eight Doric columns, ascended by steps. The 
vestibule is small; two handsome stone staircases lead from it 
to the interior, which holds 1,700 persons. The decorations 
are tastefully executed, giving the theatre a light and elegant 
appearance, and the saloon is handsome. Upon the last re¬ 
storation of this theatre every possible precaution was adopted 
in case of fire to prevent the flames extending from one part 
of the building to another. The performances here consist of 
tragedies, comedies, and other dramatic pieces. The director 
of the. company has the theatre rent-free from Government. 

Admission. —Avant-scenes des Premieres, 8 fr. Premieres avec 
Salon, 6 fr. Premieres fermeesdeface, 5fr. Fauteuilsd’Orchestre, 

5 fr. Fauteuils de balcon, h fr. Baignoires, Premieresdebalcon, 
4 fr. Deuxieme Galcrie de face, 2 fr. 5oc. Parterre, 2 fr.—Per¬ 
formances begin at from 7 to ball-past. 

Theatre du Gymnase, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, was 
erected in 1820, and presents to the boulevard a front of six 
Ionic engaged columns, surmounted by as many Corinthian, 
with pedestals united by a balustrade. The vestibule is small; 
the house, which will contain 1,200 spectators, is well suited 
both for hearing and seeing. The performances are limited to 
vaudevilles and comedies; most of the dramatic productions of 
Scribe were written for this theatre. The company is good. 

Admission. —Loges d’Entresol et Premieres Loges, 8 fr. 
Fauteuilsde Balcon, Fauteuilsd’Orchestre, 7 fr. Baignoires, 5 fr. 
Parterre, 2 fr. 50c.—Performances begin at from 6.30 to 7.30. 

ThLatre du Palais Royal, formerly known as the Theatre 
Montansier, at the north-western corner of the Palais- 


468 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

Royal, was opened in 1831. It is neatly decorated within, 
hut is of very small dimensions; the number of places is only 
1000. Vaudevilles and farces are performed here by an excel¬ 
lent company, and it is a most successful theatre. 

Admission. —Premieres de face, Loges de Balcon, Fauteuils de 
premiere Galerie, de Balcon, d’Orchestre, 6 fr. Secondes de face, 

4 fr. Parterre, 2 fr.—Performances begin at from 7 to half-past. 

Theatre du Vaudeville, Place de la Bourse, formerly the 
Opera-Comique, was opened in 1827. It presents a narrow 
front, ornamented with columns of the Ionic and Corinthian 
orders, pilasters, and niches, in which statues are placed. The 
interior is of a circular form, and holds 1,300 persons. The 
decorations of the house are not devoid of taste, and its size, 
which rendered it unfit for an opera, is suited to the present 
description of performances. The company is excellent. 

Admission. —Avant-sc&nes des Premieres, Premieres de face, 
Baignoires i\ salon, 6 fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, Fauteuils de la 
Premiere Galerie, 5 fr. Baignoires de face, 5fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 
—Performances begin at from half-past 6 to half-past 7. 

Theatre des Varietes, Boulevard Montmartre.— This 
theatre, built by M. Cellerier, was opened in 1807. Its front, 
though small, is pure in style and decorated with two ranges 
of columns, Doric and Ionic, surmounted by a pediment. On 
the ground-floor is a vestibule, from which flights of stairs lead 
to the first tier of boxes and to the saloon, over the vestibule. 
The house can accommodate 1,300 persons. Vaudevilles and 
farces are performed here. The company is good. 

Admission. —Avant-sc£mes des Premieres, 8 fr. Baignoires, 6 fr. 
Loges du premier rang, Fauteuils de Balcon et d’Orchestre, 5 fr. 
Deuxi&mes loges de face, 4 fr. Deuxiemes loges interm£- 
diaires, 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 50c.—Performances begin at from 
half-past 6 to half past 7. 

Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, Boulevard St. Martin.— 
The opera-house having been burnt in 17 81, this edifice, used 
for a time in its stead, was planned and built in 7 5 days. It 
is constructed of wood and plaster, and, though large and con¬ 
venient within, is externally devoid of merit. It has no vesti¬ 
bule, and the saloon is very small, but the salle holds 1,800 
persons. Dramas and vaudevilles are performed here, and 
occasionally pieces of a higher standard. 

Admission. —Avant-scenes du Rez-de-Chauss6e et des Pre¬ 
mieres, lo fr. Baignoires, Fauteuils de Balcon, Premieres de 
face, 7 fr. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 6 fr. Stalles d’Orchestre, 
4 fr. 50 c. Deuxithnes loges, 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. — Begins at 
about 6 to 7. 

Theatre de l’Ambigu-Comique, Boulevard St. Martin.—The 
Ambigu Comique on the Boulevard du Temple having been 



THEATRES. 469 

destroyed by fire, this house was erected by Stouff and Le- 
cointre, and opened in 1828. The front is ornamented at each 
story with columns supporting a cornice and entablature, and 
the upper story, instead of windows, contains niches with 
allegorical statues. The peristyle is surmounted by a terrace. 
The theatre contains 1,900 places. Melodramas and vaude¬ 
villes are performed here. 

Admission. —Avant-scfenes, Premieres de face & Salon, 6 fr. 
Fauteuils des premieres, premier rang, Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 
5 fr. Loges d^eouvertes des premieres, 5 fr. Stalles d’Orches¬ 
tre, Fauteuils de pourtour, 3 fr. Deuxi^mes loges de face, 
2 fr. 50 c. Parterre, l fr. 50 c.—Begins at from 6 to 7. 

Theatre Imperial du Chatelet, on the western side 
of the Place of that name. It was transferred hither in 1862 
from the Boulevard du Temple, where it was called Theatre 
du Cirque, having been founded by Astley in 1780 for 
equestrian performances. The present edifice, built by the 
City, and let to the Manager at an annual rent of 210,000 fr., 
besides 62,000 fr. for the lighting, is chiefly remarkable 
for an experiment, viz., the substitution of a glass ceiling 
for the lustre, which used to blind the eyes of those who 
occupied the upper tiers. An improved system of ventilation 
has removed the inconvenience of the great heat darted 
down on the pit from the 1,600 gas-burners situated 
between the glass ceiling and the roof. In other respects 
the house is infinitely more commodious than the old theatres; 
the seats are more convenient, and the speedy egress of the 
public has been amply provided for. There are three tiers 
of arches, the upper ones spanning two of the lower, which 
produces a pleasing effect. There is a spacious projecting 
gallery in front of the first tier of arches, which is divided 
into boxes; the other arches have only galleries behind, the 
lower tier with five, the upper with six rows of stalls. Above 
rises the amphitheatre, the cheapest place in the house, with 
seven rows of seats. The house will accommodate 3,500 
spectators in all. The Imperial box is in front of the 
stage. There are no stage-boxes, their place being sup¬ 
plied by a ventilating apparatus concealed from view. 
The stage is vast, and well adapted for military and fairy 
pieces, which form the staple of this theatre. There are 
two foyers, extending along the whole front of the edi¬ 
fice ; that on the first floor is extremely elegant, and set 
apart for the belter classes ; the other on the fourth 
story, is reserved for the spectators of the amphitheatre, 
and provided with the refreshments best suited to their 
tastes. The public of this (oyer is excluded from the 


470 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

other; but a ticket is given to those who wish to pass from 
the better foyer to the upper one, and then return. 

Admission. —Loges sur le Theatre, 4ofr.; de Balcon, G fr. 
Fauteuils de Baleon el d’Orchestre, 5 fr. Slalles d’Orchestre et 
Baignoires, 4 fr. Pourtour, Slalles de Galerie. 3 fr. Parterre, 2fr. 

Theatre Lyrique, Place du Ghatelet. This theatre, which 
stands opposite to the other, also belongs to the City, to 
which it pays a rent of 130,000 fr., and 32,000 fr. for the 
gas. It is but a miniature copy of the Ghatelet, and holds 
1,7 50 spectators: it is exclusively devoted to operettas. The 
architect of both these theatres is M. Davioud. 

Admission. —Avant-scenes, Baignoires d’Avant-scenes, lofr. 
Fauteuils d’Orchestre, Loges Salon, 8 fr. Fauteuils de Balcon, 
6fr. Loges du 2me dtage a Salon de face, 5 fr. Fauteuils du 2me 
Balcon, 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr. 50 c.—Begins at about 7. 

Theatre de la Gaite, Square des Arts et Metiers, the third 
theatre built by the City, to replace those of the Boulevard du 
Temple. It pays a rent of 142,C00 fr., gas included, and 
holds 1,800 persons. All the improvements introduced into 
the two preceding ones have been adopted here, except in the 
lighting apparatus, which is constructed on a different prin¬ 
ciple. The lustre indeed is suppressed, but instead of the 
glass ceiling, the latter is pierced with a circular aperture, 
closed by what might be called a glass basket, which de¬ 
scends to about two feet below the upper curve of the 
ceiling. From this, light is distributed in all directions; 
and in addition there are twelve reflectors in the coves of 
the ceiling, whence the light from the basket is radiated 
so as not to leave a corner of the house unilluminated. 
1 his system is generally approved of. The foyer is one of 
the most splendid in Paris. Vaudevilles and melodramas. 

Admission. —Avant-scenes, Loges do face, 6 fr. Fauteuils d’Or¬ 
chestre, Fauteuils de Galerie, 5 fr. Baignoires, 4 fr. Stalks d’Or¬ 
chestre, 3 fr. Parterre, 2 fr.—Begins at about 7. 

Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, 40, Rue de Bondy.— 
This theatre, formerly on the Boulevard du Temple, is, with 
the exception of a few ornaments added to the facade, scarcely 
distinguishable from the surrounding houses. Constructed 
within an ample court-yard, its plan (a horse-shoe ending in 
a rectangle) does not please the eye, and the foyer is of very 
modest pretensions; but the stage is spacious, the seats and 
boxes comfortable, and music is heard to advantage. It is 
lighted with a lustre, and will hold 1,200 spectators. Vaude¬ 
villes and farces are performed here. 

Admission .— Avant-Scenesdes Premieres, r» fr. Loges d’ Avant- 
scenes, 4 fr. Fauteuils de Premiere Galerie, 3 fr. Fauteuils 
d’Orchestre, 3 fr. Parterre, l fr.—Begins at 7. 


THEATRES. 47 i 

Bouffes Parisiens, Passage Ghoiseul.—Vaudevilles, comic 
operas. See., are performed here with great ability. 

Admission. — Avant-scenes de la Premiere Galerie, et Pre¬ 
mieres Loges, 6 fr. Orchestre, Baignoires, 3fr. Deuxiemes 
Loges, Deuxiemes de face, 2 fr. 50 c. —Begins at from 7 to 8. 

Theatre Dejazet, 41, Boulevard du Temple.— A pretty 
theatre for pantomimes, grotesque ballets, and farces. Named 
after the celebrated actress Mile. Dejazet, who, though at an 
advanced age, still performs here with great success. 

Admission .—Avant-sc&nes, 5 fr. Loges, 3 fr. 50 c. Fauteuils 
d’Orchestre, 3 fr. Parterre, 1 fr. Begins at about 7. 

Theatre Beaumarchais, Boulevard Beaumarchais.—It con¬ 
tains 1,250 places. Melodramas, vaudevilles, Sec. 

Admission. —Avant-scenes, 3 fr. 50 c. Fauteuils d’Orchestre, 2 fr. 
50 c. Orchestre, 1 fr. 7 5 c. Parterre, 75 c. Begins at about 7 . 

Folies Marignv, Avenue Gabriel, Champs Elysees. Vaude¬ 
villes. Admission from 2 fr. to 5 fr. 50 c. 

Theatre du Prince Eugene, Boulevard du Prince Eugene, 
23.—Similar to the former. 

Theatre Cluny, Boulevard St. Germain.—Vaudevilles, 
See. Admission, from 1 fr. to 4 fr. Begins at 8. 

Atiienee, rue Scribe, 17.—Farces, See. Admission from 
2 fr. to Ofr. Begins at 8. 

Fantaisies Parisiennes, Boulevard des Italiens, 2G.— 
Musical farces. Admission, from 2 to 5 fr. 

Theatre des Nouveautes, CO, Rue du Faubourg St. Martin. 
—Farces and vaudevilles. Admission, from 50 c. to 4 fr. 

Theatre des Menus Plaisirs, 14, Boulevard de Stras¬ 
bourg. Similar to the former. Admission, 1 fr. 50 c. to 5 fr. 

Petit Theatre, Place de la Bastille.—Two performances 
a day, at half-past 5 and half-past 8 p.m. Farces. Admission, 
from 2 5 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. 

Theatre MoliEre, Passage du Saumon.—Same as above. 
Admission from 30 c. to 1 fr. 50 c. 

Theatre Lafayette, Rue Lafayette.—Similar to the above. 
Admission, from 1 fr. to 4 fr. 

Theatre St. Pierre, Rue et Passage St. Pierre Popin- 
court, 5.—A small and inconvenient theatre for vaudevilles, 
&c. Admission, from 50 c. to 2 fr. 

Ccole Lyrique, Rue de la Tour d Auvergne.— For be¬ 
ginners in the dramatic art. Admission, from 50 c. to 2 fr. 

5 Soirees Mysterieuses, by Cleverman, 8, Boulevard des 


472 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

Italiens. Legerdemain, tricks with cards, &c. Open only part 
of the year. Admission, 1 fr. 50 c., 3 fr. and 4 fr. 

Theatre Seraphin, 12 , Boulevard Montmartre.—This is a 
kind of puppet-show, with mechanical figures, called Ombres 
Chinoises, phantasmagoric tableaux, &c., and is the delight of 
children and nursery-maids. 

Afanission. —15 sous to l fr. 50 c.—Performances at 2 and 8. 

Cirque de l’Imperatrice, Champs Elysees, au Rond Point. 
Equestrian performances were first introduced at Paris by 
Messrs. Astley, of London, in the time of the Directory, and their 
company was succeeded by that of Franconi, in the time of 
Napoleon. The present building devoted to these performances 
is a spacious polygonal edifice of sixteen sides, with an elegant 
pedimented porch to the east, surmounted with a bronze figure 
of a horse. The interior is in the Moorish style, the roof sup¬ 
ported by light iron columns. It will hold 4,000 persons, 
and is only open in summer. Admission 1 fr. 50 c. and 
2 fr. 50 c.; performances commence at 8. In winter the 
same company performs at the 

Cirque Napoleon, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire. — 
6,000 places. Admission, lfr. and 2fr. Commence at 8. 

Cirque du Prince Imperial, rue de Malte, Boulevard des 
Amandiers.—This theatre, originally intended for equestrian 
performances, now gives melodramas and fairy-pieces, See. 
Begins at 8 o’clock. 4,000 places. Admission, 4 fr. to 50 c. 

The Hippodrome, near the Rond Point de l’Avenue de St. 
Cloud (Arc de l’Etoile), is a wooden circular enclosure for 
equestrian exhibitions, gymnastics, and military shows. The 
arena is uncovered ; performances on Sundays, Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays. Admission, 1 fr. and 2 fr. 

There are also a number of small theatres belonging to 
the arrondissements comprised between the 13th and 20th. 
The pieces performed are melodramas, vaudevilles, petty 
comedies, and even tragedies. The Theatres Montmartre , 
Passy, Batignolles, La Villette, and Mont Parnasse give re¬ 
presentations daily; the Theatre de Grenelle, two or three 
times a-week. The admission varies from 40 c. to 2 fr. 


EXHIBITIONS. 

Exhibition of French Colonial Produce. —This exhi¬ 
bition, organized by the Ministers of Algeria and Marine, is 
visible daily, Mondays and Thursdays excepted, from 12 to 
4 p.m., at the Palais de l’lndustrie (central entrance facing the 
Seine). It contains specimens of Algerian wool, cloth and 
folks, wheat, dried fruits, and furniture made of Algerian olive 



CONCERTS. 473 

and other kinds of ornamental wood; also produce from Gua¬ 
deloupe, Martinique, Senegal, Gaboon, 8tc., such as seeds, 
fruits, stuffs and trinkets made by savages, palm-oil and soap, 
spices, medicinal plants, furs, &c. The manuscripts in 
Arabic, and books printed by the missionary society in 
various languages of Africa, will attract peculiar attention. 

Panorama.— Near the Palais de l’Industrie, views of the 
Battle of Solferino (see p. 185). 

Other sights spring up every month, but they are too mutable 
to find a place here ; they may moreover be ascertained by a 
glance at the bills stuck up about town, or reference to the 
daily newspapers (see Periodical Exhibitions, p. 104). 

CONCERTS. 

The concert season in Paris may be said to last all the year 
round, for though the highest class of these entertainments is 
limited to winter and spring, concerts of a more miscellaneous 
description continue to be given during the whole of the sum¬ 
mer and autumn, though not regularly. Those which take place 
annually in the winter season are justly celebrated throughout 
Europe for their excellence. In the first rank of these stand 
the series (six in number) given by the “ Societe des Concerts” 1 
at the Conservatoire de Musique, 2, rue Bergere, which take 
place once a-fortnight. These concerts are chiefly devoted to 
instrumental music, though choruses and other vocal pieces 
are likewise given. The selections are principally confined to 
the works of the most celebrated classic composers, Gluck, 
Handel, Mozart, Haydn, and latterly Beethoven, Weber, &c., 
and the orchestra of the society being as a body the finest and 
best-disciplined instrumentalists in any European capital, their 
chefs-d'oeuvre are executed with a perfection and smoothness 
which no connoisseur can listen to without delight. The per¬ 
formances generally occupy about two hours and a half—quality, 
not quantity, being alone considered in the programme—an 
example worthy imitation at most other concerts both in Paris 
and elsewhere. Numerous miscellaneous concerts take place 
during the season, at which nearly all the leading musicians 
from every country may be heard in succession, the suffrages 
of the Parisian musical public being considered an indis¬ 
pensable passport to enter the temple of Fame. They take 
place morning or evening; the principal salles for these 
entertainments are at Herz’s, rue de la Victoire; Pleijel’s, 
rue Rochechouart; Sax's, rue St. Georges; Brand's, rue du 
Wail; the At hence, 17, rue Scribe, having more the appear¬ 
ance of a theatre than of a concert-room. It will hold 
about 800 persons. 


474 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

The Orphdonistcs are a musical society, known in England 
from a visit they paid to London some time since. They 
occasionally give grand vocal and instrumental concerts, 
rather of the stentorian kind, the number of performers on 
such occasions amounting to 6,000 or more. The Palais de 
l’lndustrie (see p. 183) is generally chosen for these perform¬ 
ances. Of the permanent concerts, the most in vogue is M. 
Besselievrc’s Concert des Champs Elysees,, which is held in 
the summer season in the flower-garden situated between the 
Palais de lTndustrie and the Cours la Reine, the admission to 
which is 1 fr. 

Cafes Concerts or Cijantants, are establishments of recent 
date, where the pleasures of the palate are enhanced by those of 
the ear. They are the favourite evening lounge of the Parisian 
bourgeois, who does not object to hearing favourite songs and 
other music, while regaling himself. The artists are, as may 
be guessed, of third-rate quality. There is no admission or 
ticket required, but the visitor is expected to partake of some 
refreshment. The Cafes Chantants mostly resorted to in winter 
are to be found on the Boulevard du Temple and in the 
neighbourhood ol the Luxembourg. But the monster esta¬ 
blishments of the kind are the Eldorado , 4, Boulevard de 
Strasbourg, easily distinguishable by its elegant facade adorned 
with white Corinthian columns ; and the Alcazar, with a 
Moorish front, 6, rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. The former 
comprises a large coffee-room with refreshments at the ordinary 
prices; but another entrance leads to a regular theatre, of a 
circular form, with a stage and orchestra. The pit, and a 
spacious gallery running all round and supported by Ionic 
columns, are laid out with tables for refreshments at higher 
prices; and here, amid volumes of smoke from the fragrant 
weed, the blouse and frock-coat are conspicuous, interspersed 
here and there with a muslin cap and merino gown, listening 
to the comic songs, or snatches from favourite operas, retailed 
to the audience by the performers. The ceiling is lofty, rest¬ 
ing on Corinthian columns, and numerous lustres give addi¬ 
tional brilliancy to the scene. The Alcazar is a place of the 
same description, and equally elegant; only the hall is ob¬ 
long and decorated in the Moorish style. The Bataclan, 
Boulevard du Prince Eugene, also devoted to the same diver¬ 
sions, is remarkable for a very pretty facade in the Chinese 
style, and the interior is very richly decorated in the same taste. 

Three cafes concerts attract the public in the Champs Elysees 
in summer. They are the Alcazar and Cafe des Ambassa- 
deurs, on the northern side of the Avenue dcs Champs Elysees, 
and the Pavilion de I’Horloge on the opposite side. The 


BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 475 

visitors are accommodated in the open air, and the singers under 
elegant kiosks, gaily painted and adorned with flowers. 

BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS, &c. 

Dancing being the favourite amusement with the Parisians 
botli in winter and summer, there is no quarter of the capital in 
which ball-rooms suited to all classes are not to be found; and 
they are all numerously attended. 

Winter-Balls. —This class is so intimately connected with 
the diversions of the carnival, that we should find it difficult 
to do honour to our subject without giving a faint idea of 
that important season of Parisian pastime. 

The Carnival (1) takes place during the five or six weeks 
which precede Ash Wednesday, and is the favourite season 
of masked and fancy balls both in private society and at 
the various places of public amusement; masks appear in 
the streets only on the Dimanche, the Lundi , and the Mardi 
Gras, and Mi-Careme. On these days, crowds of persons in 
fancy dresses, many of them masked, and exhibiting all sorts 
of antics, appear in the streets, principally on the northern 
Boulevards, and immense crowds in carriages, on horseback, 
or on foot, assemble to witness the gaieties of the scene. The 
Carnival was prohibited in 1790, and not resumed till Bona¬ 
parte was elected first consul. Its restoration caused great joy 
to the Parisians, and for some years nothing could exceed the 
beauty and richness of the costumes displayed on these annual 
festivals; at present, however, the zeal for them has considerably 
subsided. The procession of the Bceuf Gras for ages past has 
been celebrated at Paris on the Dimanche and Mardi Gras, 

(l) The origin of the Carnival is traceable to the East. Egypt 
had the festivals of the Ox Apis, which has given the idea of the 
masquerade of the Bceuf Gras; the Saturnalia and Lupercales of 
Ancient Rome were the continuation of that system. St. Cyprian, 
St. Clement of Alexandria, and St. Chrysostom, in vain condemned 
this rude gaiety ; it introduced itself even into the bosom of the 
church ; and licentiousness at last went so far that Pope Inno¬ 
cent III. issued decrees to reform its excesses. In the middle 
ages the Carnival commenced on the 15th December, and com¬ 
prised the fetes of Christmas, of the New Year, and of the Epi¬ 
phany. The Renaissance gave another character to these fetes, 
and the Carnival became an opportunity for intrigue. With 
Louis XIV. the Carnival assumed a more solemn tone, and was 
little more than a pretext for flattering the Great King. The 
Regent, on the contrary, patronized the masked balls of the 
Opera and of the Palais Royal, and the bourgeoisie mixed with 
princes of the blood and the nobility. From that moment dates 
the reputation of the balls of the Opera. The Revolution inter¬ 
rupted these assemblages, which only recommenced in 1805. 



476 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

when the prize ox, in a large car, preceded by music, and 
accompanied by a numerous train of butchers fantastically 
dressed and on horseback, is led through the streets. The ox 
is covered with embroidered trappings, and his head adorned 
with laurel; formerly he carried on his back a child, called Roi 
des Bouchers , decorated with a blue scarf, and holding in 
one hand a sceptre and in the other a sword. At present the 
child and his suite of young women follow the Bceuf Gras 
in a triumphal car, but without sceptre or sword. In 1849 
this custom was discontinued but revived in 1851. (1) After 
parading the streets, the masks repair to the various balls which 
abound, and which we shall now describe. 

The Public Masked Balls take place throughout the Carnival, 
at almost all the theatres, &c. The most amusing and compa¬ 
ratively select are at the Opera-house, where they begin at 
midnight, and continue till daybreak. No stranger who visits 
Paris at this season of the year should omit a visit to one of the 
Bals masques at this theatre, for it is difficult to imagine a 
scene more curious and fantastic than that presented in the 
Salle of the Grand Opera at a Carnival Ball. On these nights 
the pit is boarded over and joins the stage; the vast area of the 
whole theatre forming a ball-room of magnificent proportions, 
which, brilliantly lighted, and crowded with thousands of gay 
maskers attired in every variety of colour and costume, forms 
a sight not easily forgotten. The orchestra is first-rate, and is 
commanded by the celebrated Strauss, Chef d‘Orchestra to 
the Emperor. The amphitheatres and boxes, unless hired 
to some party, are left open to the public. Gentlemen may go 
to these balls in plain clothes, but ladies are only admitted in 
masks or in costumes. The ticket costs 10 fr. To witness 
this scene in perfection the visitor should wait until 12 or 1 
o’clock, when the company is completely assembled and the vo¬ 
taries of the dance are in full activity. On entering the vast salle 
at such a moment the effect is scarcely imaginable, the gor¬ 
geousness of the immense theatre, the glitter of the lights, the 
brilliancy and variety of the costumes, the enlivening strains of 
the music, the mirth of the crowd, and, above all, the untiring 
velocity with which the dancers whirl themselves through the 
mazes of the waltz, polka, andmazourka, present an appearance 
of bewildering gaiety not to be described. On closer examina¬ 
tion it will be of course discovered that the strict etiquette 
which presides over the aristocratic salons of the Faubourg St. 
Germain is occasionally lost sight of in the exhilaration of the 
moment, and that “ chilling reserve” is by no means the pre¬ 
dominating characteristic of the fair who resort to this 
(0 The wei&Hof the ox averages from soo to ooa kilogrammes. 


BALLS, PUBLIC GABDENS. 477 


pleasantest of pandemoniums. It will be easily conceived that 
if a visitor should take the ladies of his family to witness this 
extraordinary display, he must take them to a box as mere 
spectators, for to mingle with any of these too vivacious groups 
would be something worse than indiscretion. After the hour 
of supper (refreshment and suppers being obtainable), when the 
champagne begins to exhibit its exciting effects, the scene na¬ 
turally becomes still more warm and lively; hut, though noisy 
and boisterous, the immense throng is generally remarkable for 
its good humour, a quality frequently put to the lest by the 
nature of the jests which are freely exchanged under the repub¬ 
lican liberty of the mask. On some occasions of special en¬ 
thusiasm the elevated crowd load the leader of the orchestra, 
with the most frantic plaudits, and in more than one instance 
have carried him in triumph round the theatre, a ceremony per¬ 
formed in grand procession by all the votaries of Terpsichore 
accompanied with uproarious acclamations only to he con¬ 
ceived by those within hearing of the tempest. It is scarcely 
necessary to add that at these halls the roue may find an 
endless variety of pleasant adventures. (1) 


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(l) The first ball to which the public were admitted, without 
distinction, on payment of money, was given at the Opera Jan. 
2 d, i 7 i 6 , on a license granted by the Regent Duke of Orleans. 
The price of the ticket was five livres. In 1 7 1 7 , the exclusive 
privilege of giving them was granted to the Opera ; notwithstand¬ 
ing which balls were given at other theatres during the ten years 
for which the privilege was granted. It was at the Op 6 ra Comi- 
que of that day that the idea of boarding over the pit to a level 
with the stage, for the purpose of dancing, was first effected by 
Father Sebastian, a Carmelite friar and mechanical genius, at 
the suggestion of the Chevalier de Bouillon. In 1 746 , balls had 
so much increased in public favour, that the Director of the 
Opera petitioned for a restriction of their number, and about 
that time several persons were proceeded against for giving balls 
with saleable tickets in private houses, some not of the best re¬ 
putation. Towards the end of the last century the balls were 
organised at the Opera nearly on the same plan as at the present 
day, but with much less splendour; and it is mentioned by a 
contemporary as a matter of astonishment, that “ 22 lustres, 
with 12 bougies each, 32 branches with 2 each, 10 girandoles, 
with five each, with flambeaux, lampions, and pots-a-feu to 
light the approaches, were seen, with sixty musicians, half at 
each end of the theatre.” Each masked ball at the Grand Op 6 ra 
now occasions an expenditure of about 14,000 fr. for 98 0 per¬ 
sons employed, 1,850 wax-tapers, 210 oil-lamps, 2,600 gas- 
burners, and other requisites. The public averages 5,000 persons, 
spending in the aggregate about 65,000 fr. in masks, dresses, 
bouquets, &c., exclusive of what is spent at the restaurants. The 
receipts average 200,000 fr. for the whole season. 











478 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

Masked balls are also given at some of the minor theatres, 
but do not differ materially from the one just described, save 
in the vastness and magnificence of the scene. 

Besides the masked balls, the Carnival and winter season are 
generally enlivened by other public balls, got up by subscrip¬ 
tion, or under the patronage of various societies of artists. 

The other ball-rooms of Paris are much inferior, but may be 
interesting to an observer on account of the insight they afford 
into the character of the Parisian population. The price of 
admission is the only available standard by which to judge of 
the refinement of the company that resorts to them, and even 
that test is hardly to be depended on. Generally, however, it may 
be stated that the blouse is banished, so that the majority may 
fairly be considered to consist of clerks, shopmen, and workmen 
of the better class. The softer sex, who are admitted free, at 
most of the winter and summer balls are generally represented 
by ladies whose pretensions to coyness are not conspicuous, 
and the grisettes, so truly and amusingly painted in Paul de 
Rock’s novels, usually muster in great force, under the pro¬ 
tection of those to whom they have pledged their ephemeral 
constancy. Among the ball-rooms of this description the 
following may be noted as tailing the lead : 

Salle Valentino, 251, rue St. Honore.—This is one of the 
most celebrated ball-rooms of Paris, and certainly the most 
diverting. It is divided into two compartments, the first of 
which is about 90 feet long by 30 broad, and the second 90 
feet by 04. The architecture is a medley of the Moorish and 
Greek ; the columns are gaily painted, and the recess, which 
runs all round with seats for the dancers, is backed by mirrors, 
which by their reflection add greatly to the brilliancy of the 
scene. There are a billiard-table, a Ur au pistolet, or shooting 
gallery, a dynamometer for amateurs of muscular strength, and 
tables where trifles may be raffled for. When full, the ball¬ 
room presents a scene of extraordinary animation, and here 
may be seen rare specimens of Parisian dancing. Whenever 
the policemen’s backs are turned, the cancan reigns in all its 
glory, to degenerate into a sober quadrille figure as soon as 
danger is apprehended. As for the waltz and polka, the 
stranger may expect to see every variety of embrace, not ex¬ 
cepting the Cornish, nay, the ursine hug. The ladies’ toilettes 
are far from recherchees; and as for the gentlemen, they are 
not admitted en blouse. Admission 2 fr. to 3 fr. 

Salon du Wauxhall, 18, rue de la Douane.—It consists of a 
large room, with a gallery for refreshments over the entrance, 
opposite to which is the orchestra. The company partakes of 
the character of the manufacturing arrondissements near which 








BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 479 

it lies; in other respects this place does not differ from the 
former one : the cancan now and then will peep through the 
quadrille. Smoking is allowed. Admission 2 fr. 

The Casino, 16, rue Cadet, is composed of two ball-rooms 
at right angles to each other, with galleries all round, where 
smoking is allowed. There are besides billiard-rooms, and a 
tir au pistolet. The rules of court-etiquette are as much 
ignored here as in the former places, and the only improvement 
the visitor will remark is, that ladies smoke here with as much 
aplomb as gentlemen. Admission from 1 to 3 fr. 

The Pre aux Clercs, 85, rue du Bac, and the Tivoli d’Hiver , 
35, rue de Grenelle, are places of the same description. 

Summer Balls and Gardens. —In summer dancing takes 
place within, or in the vicinity of, the capital, in gardens espe¬ 
cially laid out for the purpose. They are only open two or 
three nights in the week. We shall commence with the 

Jardin Mabille, Avenue Montaigne, 93, which is that most 
attended. A large circular space, with a pavilion for the or¬ 
chestra in the centre, is reserved for the dancers, and lighted by 
a profusion of gas-lights suspended from artificial palm trees, 
while small shady circular bowers placed around afford the 
dancers the means of repose, after the fatigues of the polka or 
the waltz, apart from the intrusive eye of idle curiosity. A 
snug corner is laid out with tables for refreshments; here 
the sober Parisian may enjoy his bottle of beer and his cigar, 
or the votary of Terpsichore treat his partner to a refreshing 
lemonade, and recruit for subsequent exercise in the mazy 
waltz. An immense covered saloon and rooms adjoining 
>1 afford the visitor a secure asylum from the malicious influence 
■ of bad weather upon the sports of the evening. The company 
at this elegant garden, we should state, generally comes under 
the description of “the gayest of the gay,” ancl the licence of 
' the dance is frequently carried beyond the limits of propriety. 

Jardin des Fleurs, near the Avenue des Champs Elysees, 

1 and Arc de l’Etoile. A profusionof flowers of every kind, dis- 
s posed along the walks, in the recesses, under the groves, 
& everywhere greet the eye of the visitor, while innumerable 
' e lights twinkle among the grass, or shoot their slender flames 
v ‘ from under the vases and tazze filled with plants. A cafe and 
s restaurant afford every desirable refreshment; there are besides, 
e for amateurs, a tir, or shooting-gallery, a jeu de bagues , 
Chinese billiards, &c. Admission 2 to 3 fr. 

Chateau Rouge, or Nouveau Tivoli, 2, rue Neuve Clignan- 
«i court, outside the Barriere Bochechouart, is likewise very 
of much frequented, nothing having been neglected to win the good 
h graces of the public, and render it the favourite among all rival 






480 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 1 

establishments of the kind (1). The visitor on entering finds a 
large space handsomely adorned with statues bearing innumer¬ 
able lights, where groups are assembled enjoying the cool of 
ithe evening, and the enlivening strains emanating from an adjoin¬ 
ing pavilion. Small circular tents and bowers around invite 
the guest d® taste of the good things of the buffet. Another 
large space adjoining is devoted to dancing, whence a flight 
of steps descends into a third plot, containing a jeu de bctgues, 
{various contrivances of billiard-tables, swings, &c., besides a 
tiir au pistolet et a la carabine, for the more bellicose of the 
visitors. Fire-works are also among the attractions of this gar¬ 
den, all parts of which communicate together by different walks, 
over one of which a bridge is thrown, called the Pontdes Soupirs, 
as unlike the “Bridge of Sighs” celebrated by the pen of Byron 
as possible, though the name unluckily recalls the Venetian strain 
of the greatest of modern poets, and by contrast throws an air of 
ridiculous cockneyism (if such a word may be applied to Pari¬ 
sian taste) over this part of the grounds. The name has, how¬ 
ever, probably been adopted in allusion to the tender wailings 
©f love-stricken swains, who may select this spot to give vent 
to their emotions. A spacious building contains rooms for 
refreshments, and is surmounted by a terrace, from which a 
general view may be taken of the lively scene below. The 
tasteful arrangement of the illumination, contrasting with the 
verdure of the trees and the gay animation of the crowds here 
assembled, produces a very striking effect. We may note that 
greenness is here, as indeed in all the public gardens, to be 
specially guarded against, for, though verdancy is a very desi¬ 
rable attribute of the trees, any display of that quality on the 
part of a visitor may lead to serious inconvenience, and hence 
we must warn the youthful English visitor against the too 
seductive graces of the Lorette, who frequently displays no 
mean tact in playing off her fascinations. 

We cannot avoid mentioning one of the most amusing, 
though far from select, places of public resort. It is the 

Closerie des Lilas, Carrefour de l’Observatoire, nearly 
opposite the southern gate of the Garden of the Luxem 
bourg. The ground is bordered by rows of leafy summer-houses, 
admirably fitted for a quiet Ute-a-Ute. A large parterre, filled 
with flowers, and enlivened by a jet d’eau, lies in front of a 
spacious dancing-hall of Moorish design, tastefully painted, and 
open on all sides, thus giving the advantage of airness, while 

(1) This place is not devoid of historical recollections. The pa¬ 
vilion was built by Henry IV. for Gabrielle d’Estr^es ; and in 1815 
the Due de Raguse established his head-quarters here. The 
preliminaries of the treaty of Paris were also signed on this spot. 


BALLS, PUBLIC GARDENS. 481 

at the same time any ill-natured interference on the part of the 
weather is effectually prevented. Adjoining it are five billiard- 
tables, the never-failing tir, and other pastimes. The company 
chiefly consists of students and etudiantes, a title familiarly 
given to those members of the softer sex who worship Minerva 
under the garb of her youthful followers of the Quartier Latin. 

The facilities now afforded by railways enable the Parisians 
to attend also the balls given in the vicinity of the metropolis. 
Of these, among the most conspicuous is perhaps that of 

Asnieres .—This charming village, on the banks of the 
Seine, comprising a chateau built by Louis XV., which has, 
with its park, fallen into private hands, is one of the spots 
most frequented in summer by the pleasure-hunting Parisians 
of either sex. The chateau consists of two wings, with a grace¬ 
ful central pavilion; the design is simple but elegant, the 
windows lofty, and the sculpture in the taste prevalent under 
that reign. The park is of considerable extent, prettily laid 
out, with gravel walks alternately winding through clusters of 
fine trees and spacious grass plots, and ultimately penetrating 
into a shady grove, affording that wicked demon, Opportunity, 
ample space for laying his wily snares. Here, as in all other 

1 places of the kind described above, are the never failing diver¬ 
sions of the swing, the jeu de bagues, Chinese billiard-tables, 
etc., while the Mazurka and Redowa enliven the open spaces, 
and graceful kiosks and temples afford refreshment and repose. 
The illumination is, as usual, tastefully arranged, and contri¬ 
butes greatly to the enchantment of the scene. 

Other balls and fetes, of a description similar to the above, 
and easy of aceess by railway, are given at Enghien, Sceaux, 
St. Cloud, Rambouillet, and Montmorency. These rural fetes 
are exceedingly pretty, and the stranger will find them very 
well worth the trouble of the excursion. The days vary, 
but are easily learned from the bills posted up in different 
parts of the town. 

As a general observation, we may remark that the character 
of the French population is nowhere seen to more advantage 
than at places of this description. They cannot, however, 
properly be recommended as fitting places for an English 
lady to visit, unless well attended and incognito. 

Bastringues. —This is a popular and rather contemptuous 
name given to the lower sort of balls which take place in the 
gardens or eating-houses on the exterior boulevards ; but since 
the extension of Paris to the fortifications, their chief attraction 
for the lower classes, the cheapness of wine, has disappeared, 
and they have consequently lost in importance. Nevertheless, 

31 



482 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

the lover of living pictures in the Flemish style should not 
omit a stroll on a Sunday evening to these places, where he 
will witness more than one characteristic scene. Crowds of 
workmen with their wives or sweethearts fill the principal 
streets, lined with ginger-bread stalls, and ambulant cooks, 
selling pancakes, fried potatoes, or similar delicacies, while a 
fiddle or street-organ will at intervals break through the universal 
din of talk and laughter that fills the air. The gay lights at the 
entrance to the bastringues and guinguettes, or eating-houses, 
enliven the scene. As one of the better kinds of these places we 
may mention the Jardin de Paris, at Montrouge. These esta¬ 
blishments were originally very inferior and cheap, but some of 
them are now patronised by a better class. The houses which 
sell only wine and liquors are denominated guinches. 

PUBLIC FESTIVALS. 

Public annual festivals have existed in Paris under all go¬ 
vernments ; but the period varied according to the different 
dynastic or republican events intended to be celebrated. 
The period now fixed upon is the 15th of August, the fete-day 
of Napoleon I. The Place de la Concorde, so admirably 
fitted for such a purpose, and the Place du Trone, form the 
nucleus of such festivals. The obelisk is generally used 
to great advantage for the purposes of decoration, with 
that peculiar taste and elegance for which the French 
nation is justly celebrated. In the Champs de Mars there 
are rope-dancers, buffoons, orchestras for dancers, mats de co- 
cagne, and stages for dramatic representations. In the evening 
the avenues and walks are illuminated, as well as thesarden of 
the Tuileries, and fireworks take place generally upon a very 
magnificent scale. This species of exhibition being a great fa¬ 
vourite with the French, the art of preparing them has been 
carried to a high degree of perfection. These fetes draw 
numbers of strangers to the capital, not only from the pro¬ 
vinces, but from England, and other neighbouring countries, 
and certainly no foreigner, who would see Paris and its vast 
population in perfection, can ever witness either under a more 
agreeable aspect than on the occasion of a general fete. On 
these days Paris may literally be said to “ don her best” and 
the immense multitudes which crowd every place devoted to 
the amusement of the public are not more remarkable for their 
numbers, than for the gaiety and good humour they almost 
invariably display. Provisions and wine were formerly dis¬ 
tributed, but the confusion and drunkenness that ensued in¬ 
duced the authorities to decide that the distribution should in 
future be made privately, to poor families, by r the mayors, 


REVIEWS, HORSE RACES. 483 

aided by the members of the Bureaux cle Bienfaisance. (1) 

REVIEWS. 

From the military character of the French nation, and the 
great number of troops forming the garrison of Paris, reviews 
frequently take place; they are generally in the Court of the 
Tuileries, in the Champ de Mars, or in the Bois de Boulogne. 

SPORTS. 

Horse-Races. —The sports of the turf have within a lew 
years become much more general among the Parisian gentry 
than formerly, and great attention is now devoted to the im¬ 
provement of the breed of horses. Races or steeplechases take 
place annually from March to July, and in September and 
October at Longchamps (see p. 4 88), Vincennes, Chantilly, 
La Marche, Versailles, and Fontainebleau. Some of the prizes 
at these six places are awarded by the French Jockey Club, 
also called the Sociele d’Encouragement pour l’Amelioration 
des Chevaux en France, consisting of about 300 members 
(see p. 14). At the summer meeting of Longchamps, which 
takes place between the English Epsom and Ascot meetings, 
many of the races are open to horses from all countries. 
Here the Grand Prix de Paris, a kind of international 
“Derby” founded in 1803 for three-year-olds, is run for. 
The stakes consist of 100,000 fr., half of which contributed 
by the City, and the remainder by the five great railway 
companies; to which are added a work of art of suitable 
value, given by the Emperor, and the entries of 1,000 fr. 
each. The time and amount of prizes are announced before¬ 
hand in the journals, and full original reports of the races 
given in Galignanis Messenger. The Jockey Club keeps a 
stud-book, and publishes a racing calendar. (2) Its annual 
revenue from subscriptions by the Emperor, the City, Rail¬ 
way-companies, and members is nearly 1,000,000 fr. The 
principal racing establishments are at Chantilly, and a large 
portion of the population of that town consists of English 
trainers, jockeys, and grooms employed there. 

Jeux de Paume (Tennis-Courts). —There used to be several 
buildings appropriated to this exercise; the only one now 

(t) Some of the most costly fetes given in Paris were : the co¬ 
ronation of the Emperor, 1,745,646 fr.; the marriage of Marie 
Louise, 2,670,932 fr.; the birth of the King of Rome, 600,000 fr.; 
the baptism of the Duke of Bordeaux, 668,000 fr.; 1 he fete of the 
Trocadero, 800,000 fr.; the coronation of Charles X., 1 , 1 64,091 
francs; the marriage of the Duke of Orleans, 2 , 800,000 fr. 

(2) The sums granted in France for encouraging the im¬ 
provement of the breed of horses amount to 418,000 fr. a-year. 
The Jockey club, which is now entrusted with the sole direction 



484 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

in existence is the new building on the north-western terrace 
of the garden of the Tuileries (see p. 152.) 

Joutes sur l’Eau. —The watermen of the Seine formerly- 
amused the people with rowing and sailing matches. To these 
were added mythological representations, with naval com¬ 
bats, &c. Aquatic sports are still given at most of the fetes of 
villages on the banks of the Seine. Societies of regattas exist 
at Paris, Asnieres, and Argenteuil. 

Mats de Gocagne. —This exercise is a favourite amusement 
at public fetes. It consists of a greased mast, 60 feet in height, 
from which prizes, such as watches, silver forks and spoons, sil¬ 
ver cups, See., are suspended, which fall to the lot of those 
who succeed in reaching them. 

Skating. —The best places for this exercise are the lakes of 
the Bois de Boulogne, the basins of the Tuileries, &c. 
Between the Jardin d’Acclimitation (see p. 493) and the Porte 
de Madrid of the Parc de Boulogne there is a basin rented by 
a skating-club. 

Rifle-matches. —They take place annually under the name 
of Tir National, at Vincennes (see p. 583.) Bow and cross¬ 
bow practice also form part of the sport. These matches 
generally take place in August. Subscribers pay from 4 to 
20 fr. for every series of five shots, according to the arms used. 

Cricket. —This game is played on the pelouse or bowling- 
green of Madrid (see p. 493). Apply at No. 3, rue d’Agues- 
seau, to the Secretary of the Paris Cricket Club. 

PROMENADES. 

Of all the promenades within Paris, the Champs £lys£es is 
the largest. 

of the Government races, grants prizes for those established in the 
departments, to encourage the breed of thorough-bred stock in 
France. The Prefects of departments enjoy the “ Presidence 
d’honneur” at Government races, and the superior functionaries 
of the Haras act at them as the Government commissioners. 
Three commissioners are appointed in each locality by the Mi¬ 
nister, to receive the entries, prepare the ground, and superin¬ 
tend the races ; they decide all questions without appeal, ex¬ 
cept only in case of objections to the identity or qualification of 
a horse. Such objection may be referred to a Central Commission 
of seven members, sitting at Paris. Persons guilty of fraud 
may be excluded from the races for a given time. Except in case 
of an express condition to the contrary, the only horses allowed 
to run for the Government stakes are those foaled and bred in 
France, up to the age of two years, and whose descent is 
traced in the English or French stud books. For racing pur¬ 
poses France is divided into three great zones: the North, South, 
and West ; and certain events in each are exclusively reserved 


PROMENADES. 485 

The Garden of the Tuileries, a delightful walk, see p. 150. 
The Garden of the Palais Royal is generally frequented 
by the inhabitants of the centre of the town (see p. 208). 

The Garden of the Luxembourg, which has recently under¬ 
gone very great embellishments, and received many new sta- 

for horses bred in that particular division. The races run at 
Paris and Chantilly are however open to all, but with advan¬ 
tages of iveight in some instances, for horses from the South and 
West. Races take place in France in about 40 localities, the 
principal of which are: Angers, in June; Rouen, Nancy, and 
Amiens, in July; Caen, Le Pin and Moulins, in August; and 
Marseilles, in November. The steeple-chases in the neighbour¬ 
hood of Paris take place at Vincennes, La Marche, and Maisons- 
Laffitte. The stakes granted by Government are divided into 
two categories, known as Prix classes an reglement, and Prixnon 
classes, and the Minister decides every year on the division and 
conditions of the stakes which are non-classes. The tirst cate¬ 
gory of stakes is divided into four classes, namely: ist class, 
the Great Imperial stakes for horses that have won those stakes 
before ; 2d class, the Imperial stakes for horses that have never 
Avon the ist class stakes • 3 d class, the principal stakes for horses 
that have never Avon a tirst or second class stake ; 4 th class, 
Special Stakes for horses of all sorts that have never Avon a tirst, 
second, or third class Slake ; the value of the plates given varies 
from 2,000 fr. to G,ooofr.; there are besides others of larger 
amount, the principal being the Prix de l’Imperatrice of 15 ,ooo fr., 
and the Prix de VEmpereur of 10,000 fr. run for at the Paris 
spring meeting; the Prix de Diane or French Oaks of 10,000 fr., 
and the Prix du Jockey Club or French Derby, of 20 ,ooo fr. at the 
Chantilly spring meeting ; the Grand Prix de Paris of 100,000 fr., 
and the Prix de I’Empereur of 10,000 fr. at the Paris summer 
meeting; the Prix de I’Empereur of 10,000 fr. at the Chantilly 
autumn meeting ; and the Grand Prixde I’Empereur of 20,000 fr. 
at the Paris spring meeting. In every case the amount of the 
entries, varying from 50 fr. to 1,000 fr., is added. In 1864 the 
total amount of money to he conlended for at Paris and Chan¬ 
tilly Avas 452,000 fr., divided as folloAvs: Paris spring meeting, 
six days’ racing, 30 prizes, 134,000 fr.; Paris summer meeting, 
tAvo days, 10 prizes, 145,000 fr.; Paris autumn meeting, three 
days, lb prizes, 75,000 fr.; Chantilly spring meeting, three days, 
15' prizes, 65 ,000 fr. ; Chantilly autumn meeting, 10 prizes, 
32,500 fr. The Government also grants, under certain specified 
conditions, and in localities Avhere it may appear useful, primes 
de dressage for carriage and riding horses. The number of race¬ 
horses now under training in France is four hundred. There are 
94 jockeys and 5 8 trainers of race-horses noAV in France, the 
greater part of both being English. In is 10 France had 
2 , 498,338 horses, in 1812 , 2 , 244,691 ; ill 1825 , 2 , 423,712 ; ill 
1840, 2,818,495 ; and in 1858 , 3 , 152 , 100 . From a report drawn 
up by Gen. Fleury, Director of the Imperial Breeding studs, it 
appears that in i86i > no less than 80 y, 8 U 01 V, ivas glyou sn priye* 







486 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

tues by eminent sculptors, is the principal promenade on the 
southern bank of the Seine (see p. 379). For 

The Garden of Plants, with its menagerie, collections, 
etc., see p. 427. 

The Boulevards, interior and exterior, are resorted to by 
Parisians of all ranks, and form by day or night amusing and 
healthy walks. The Boulevard des Italiens is the most fashion¬ 
able (see pp. 13, 36). 

The Parc de Monceaux is described atp. 204. 

The Parc de Vincennes has now become one of the finest 
spots on the outskirts of Paris (see p. 584). 

The Paiic des Buttes Chaumont deserves a visit (see p. 451.) 

Bois or Parc de Boulogne. —This wood, outside the for¬ 
tifications, and comprising a surface of 87 3 hectares, bears the 
name of a neighbouring village. Before 1789 its trees were 
dying from age. The revolutionary axe in part cleared it; 
whatever was then spared was felled in 1814, to make pali¬ 
sades against the approach of the allied armies. In July, 1815, 
after the capitulation, the English under Wellington encamped 
here. It has since grown again into a thick and beautiful 
wood. The Bois de Boulogne, now the property of the city of 
Paris, has been long known as a place for duelling and suicides. 
It is distinguished for the annual promenade de Longchamp, 
and is now, like Hyde Park in London, the most fashionable 
place of resort for a drive or a walk, where the most splendid 
equipages and finest horses of the capital are displayed (see p. 
186). The annexed map will be found very useful in di¬ 
recting the visitor to the most interesting spots. 

The best way of visiting this delightful wood, in order fully 
to enjoy its varied scenery, so admirably turned to account by 
the engineers MM. Vare, Alphand, and Bardlet Deschamps, 
entrusted with the improvements which have been going on 
here since 18 52—is to enter it by the Avenue de Vlmpe- 
ratrice, 3900 feet long and 300 wide, which, commencing 
from the Rond Point of the Triumphal Arch of FEtoile 
(see p. 191), extends to the Porte Dauphine, the nearest 
city gate on that side. Continuing along the road exactly op¬ 
posite to this Avenue, a few slight turns to the left will bring 
the visitor at once to the borders of the new lakes, the great 

for flat races. Heats are now suppressed for the six Imperial 
Stakes, and the distances have been increased from 4,ooo to 
5,800 metres. In 1 864, in and about Paris, 442 races were 
contested, the stakes amounting to 1 , 537,776 fr., divided among 
7 1 winners. The horses entered for 186 4 were 126, comprising 
4o English, 39 French, 9 German 4 American, and 4 Italian 
horses. 




PLAN OF THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE AND ITS DEPENDENCIES. 



LASuresnes 


du* 1 ** 




Puteaux 


Tour tie 


®VAl'dc i 

L<mgcJiam]t\ 


podtouve a* 

Lo^cWa^P 


'amp 

au iement 


'Madrid XWm 


o drome 


uertW. 


Tatelai 


Chalet 


ate aux 


aims 


[tzserru j 


Station 


pbarcadeve 


Artesien 


Autenill 


Stahoa 


Imp. Thierry fieri 




































































































BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 487 

attraction of the day. The first of these lakes, which are fed 
liy the Artesian well of Passy (see p. 190), is 3600 feet in length 
and 730 broad, and encompasses two islands, connected by a 
rustic wooden bridge, and occupying together an extent of 2400 
feet. Mere art and taste have conspired to charm the eye with 
the most picturesque scenery. At the southern extremity, 
opposite the islands, two charming cascades (1), one of which 
is now popularly called La Source, pour their waters, bound¬ 
ing from rock to rock, or gushing from crevices skilfully ar 
ranged, into the lake beneath. Winding paths, emerging 
from the cool fir-groves scattered around, intersect the rich 
turf which clothes the banks down to the water’s edge. On 
the western side of the smaller island we see a pretty aviary, 
and from the balcony of an elegant kiosk, called the Exedre , 
situated on a promontory which terminates the smaller island, an 
enchanting view is obtained on a fine summer’s day of the gay 
scene around. The rich equipages enlivening the carriage-road 
that winds around the lake—the crowds of persons of all ranks 
enjoying the cool shade on the iron benches provided for their 
convenience, or sauntering along the gravel-walks—children 
frolicking about in the height of merriment and glee, and 
the boats plying to and fro with their white canvass awnings 
I shining in the sun (2), form a maze of bustle and animation 
most pleasing to the eye. It is the evening especially, a little 
after sunset, the visitor should prefer to take his stand on this 
balcony, and see the gay barks, with their coloured lanterns, 
gliding along and crossing each other in every direction, for¬ 
cibly recalling to mind the Queen of the Adriatic, with her 
innumerable gondolas flitting about the point of Quintavalle, 
under the terrace of the Giardino Francesc. On the larger 
island a Swiss cottage, the Chalet des Isles, near the bridge, 
affords refreshment to the weary ; in summer, theatrical trifles 
arc performed here. At the opposite end of this island we may, 
reposing at our ease in a pretty trellised summer-house, gaze 
on the “wide expanse'*’ of water before us. 

(1) The lakes are also fed by the reservoirs of Chaillot through 
an iron pipe, 16 inches in diameter, passing close by La Muette, 
a villa (see p. 189) lying within the fortifications. 

(2) Tne charge is one franc for one person; for large parties, 
it is less in proportion. There are three landing places along the 
hanks of the lake, but only one on the larger island, opposite the 
Swiss cottage. To cross over to the islands, the charge is only 
50 centimes, return included. The visitor, wishing to be landed 
on the opposite or western bank on leaving the islands, should 
hail the boat at the landing-place on that side, and then repair 
to the Chalet and wait for it, but he must then arm himself 
with patience. 









488 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

Leaving the islands for terra firma , snug little Swiss cot¬ 
tages may be seen peering here and there from behind the 
trees, well provided with beer and common wine for the 
thirsty. The carriage-road above-mentioned, which forms a 
circuit of not less than five miles, brings us to the second 
lake, separated from the former by a neck of land, called 
Carrefour des Cascades, where iron chairs may be hired 
at a charge of 3 or 4 sous. This second lake is much 
smaller, and less attractive than the other, but likewise fur¬ 
nished with boats for the accommodation of the tourist. 
At its further end a hill, or mound, called the Butte Morte- 
mart, and also Mont St. Bernard, graced with a cedar 
at its top, (1) commands a good view of both the lakes. 
We must not omit to mention, that the dendrologist will find 
ample scope for observation in this park, where some of the 
rarest trees have been planted of late, including fourteen or 
fifteen kinds of oak (the cork-tree among the number), as 
many, perhaps, of the pine, the beech, the plantain, &c., 
while the islands are adorned with various plants of the warmer 
climates, requiring considerable nursing, such as the yucca , 
the musa, begonia, aloes , rhopis, &c. Mexico has furnished 
the Taxodium sempervirens, Van Diemen’s Land the Euca¬ 
lyptus and Banksia, Jamaica the sugar-cane, China the Diely- 
tron, and Algiers the banana. From the Mont St. Ber¬ 
nard several walks or avenues branch out in as many direc¬ 
tions. On taking the third to the right (if facing the lakes) 
the visitor will reach a pond, called the Mare d’Auteuil, a 
pleasant spot, where vegetation has attained a more venerable 
age, witness the huge weeping willow that dips its branches 
in the water beneath ; nor would the visitor think himself 
here so close to Paris, were it not for the fortifications that 
mar the illusion. From this spot a few steps to the right 
will take him to Auteuil (see p. 189), by the gate of that name 
where he may either return to Paris through the village, or 
take his ticket for the Porte Maillot or Rue St. Lazare at the 
railway station close at hand to the left. 

But if it be not his intention to leave the Park so soon, the 
Boulogne road (see Map) will take him to the pretty village 
of that name, and, continuing his walk, he will soon arrive at 
the vast race-course called the 

Hippodrome de Longchamps, granted by the City to the 
Societe d’Encouragement or Jockey-Club (see p. 483). It 
contains 62 hectares (153 acres) being 1,500 metres in length 

( 1 ) This cedar was brought from Neuilly early in 1855, while 
in full blossom. It weighed upwards of 18 Ions, including the 
mass of earth which clung to its roots. 


BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 489> 

by 300 in breadth, and was inaugurated on the 26th of April, 
18 57. There are four stands (or tribunes , as they are called 
in France), two on each side of the Emperor’s pavilion, which 
stands alone, and is splendidly fitted up, containing a saloon 
and sitting-room, opening on a platform from which a double 
staircase descends to the race-course. The platform is pro¬ 
tected by an awning resting on six cast-iron pillars, the whole 
surmounted by a gabled roof in the style of an ornamental 
Swiss cottage. A square terrace for the Emperor’s suite 
rises behind, with a square tower containing the staircase. 
The pavilion, like the other stands, has an entrance on the 
side towards the Seine, but the Emperor generally prefers 
ascending the double staircase in front. The two stands 
flanking this pavilion, from which they are separated by pas¬ 
sages, are called les grandes tribunes, and are each 35 metres 
in length; they contain ten rows of seats, six of which are 
protected by a vast awning supported by cast-iron pillars, and 
divided, in thewestern stand, into seven compartments, which 
are reserved for the Minister of Agriculture, Commerce, and 
Public Works, the Prefect of the Seine, the Prefect of Police, 
the Municipal Council, the members of the Cercle Imperial , 
and other great cercles of Paris (see p. 14), and lastly to sub¬ 
scribers and persons provided with tickets giving admission 
to the weighing place. The compartment nearest the Em¬ 
peror’s pavilion is reserved for the members of the Adminis¬ 
tration des Haras. The eastern stand has fewer divisions, 
and is set apart for the members of the Jockey Club, who have 
specially arranged a compartment for ladies. The roofs of 
these two stands are surmounted by terraces accommodating 
; about 400 persons each. The extreme lateral stands con¬ 
tain eight rows of covered seats each, but have neither unco¬ 
vered ones nor terraces above. All these stands are entered 
from an enclosure on the side facing the Seine; the middle 
ones are flanked by square towers containing stairs leading 
to the terraces and galleries which give access to the seats in 
front. The galleries on the first floor are also accessible by 
central flights of stairs descending to the enclosure: The 
ground-floors contain a weighing-room, a saloon for ladies, 
another for the members of the Jockey Club, a third for 
refreshments, a guard-room, etc. The buildings are con¬ 
ceived in a style of elegant rural architecture. The raceground 
is infinitely superior to that of the Champ de Mars, and much 
larger than the adjoining Ancien Sport. It is so arranged that 
it can be turned into two courses, one of about 1,900 metres, 
and the other of about 3,000. The stands are situated so as 
to avoid the glare of the sun, and being near the first turnings 







490 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

they allow of a straight run home of between 800 and 900 
metres. In front, as at Chantilly, a wide sloping space is 
railed in, forming an enclosure which is the favourite resort 
of sporting characters. The course commands splendid views 
of the Bois de Boulogne, M. de Bothschild’s villa, the hills of 
St. Cloud, Meudon, and Bellevue, MontValerien, the Seine, See. 
Ready access to the course is provided for carriages and horse¬ 
men ; and spectators can reach the ground by the right bank 
railway to Suresnes, the railway to Auteuil, the tramway 
and omnibuses to Boulogne, the omnibuses to Neuilly, 
and lastly by steam-boats running from the Pont de la Con¬ 
corde. (1) 

Close to the race-course, and commanding an excellent view 
of it at its western extremity, we see, on an elevated base¬ 
ment, the Moulin de la Galette, a remnant of the old Abbey 
of Longehamps, dating from the 13th century. This relic, a 
picturesque round tower crowned with a peaked roof, has a 
most romantic appearance. Its basement, the old walls of 
which rest upon mossy rocks mantled with ivy, is encircled 
by a moat crossed by a bridge of unhewn stone whence a 
flight of rugged stairs ascends to the top, which overlooks 
the whole race-course and scenery around. The moat is fed 
by the water of the adjoining ponds ; and the sails of the 
mill, when driven by the wind, work a lifting pump by ma¬ 
chinery within, by means of which the water is drawn up 
from the moat and conveyed back to the Cascade (see below), 
whence it originally came. Another tower, on the opposite 
side of the road, also forming part of the abbey in former 
days, adds to the romance of the scenery. A rustic habita¬ 
tion used as a guard-house is close by, while others of the 
same description raise their thatched roofs above the clumps 
of trees with which the grounds are artistically interspersed, 
so as successively to reveal to the eye, now the MontValerien, 
and now St. Cloud, Meudon, Suresne, or Boulogne. Four 
poplars, marking the tomb of a Russian colonel, who died 
here in 1814, have been religiously respected, and standalone 
as before. A road, more than 7 miles in length, and 22 
yards broad, follows the banks of the Seine, connecting 
Neuilly with St. Cloud. The suspension bridge of Suresne, with 

(I) The City lias granted the ground to the Jockey Club for 50 
years from 1857, and for the same period the management 
of the Government Autumn Races, which used to take place in 
the Champ de Mars. In return the Societc d’Encouragement has 
engaged to employ the whole of the nett receipts from the letting 
of places, &.C., at races, in giving new stakes, or increasing those 
now existing ; and has accepted of a certain tariff for places. 


BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 49 i 

the wooded islands of Puteaux, connected with the park by 
rustic bridges over the narrow arm of the Seine that separates 
them from the right bank, contribute to enliven the scene. 

Returning by the Suresne road to a spot where five roads 
meet, the eye is at once attracted by the picturesque 

Cascade de Longchamps, now one of the favourite places of 
resort for visitors to the Park. An artificial mound, 180 feet 
in breadth and 42 feet high, raises its craggy front above a 
basin bordered with rocks; a vast sheet of water issuing from 
a cavern pierced through the body of the mound, falls into 
the basin from a height of 27 feet, while laterally two minor 
cascades are seen picturesquely threading their way through 
various crevices. An intricate rocky passage winds its way 
under the cascade, leading the visitor through many mock- 
perils, charmingly imagined, to the top of the same waterfall, 
where he may enjoy a view of the pretty lake by which it is 
fed, and which also displays a picturesque island in the 
centre. (1) Having explored the wonders of the cascade, and 
perchance taken some refreshment at the coffee-house close by, 
we may strike into the Allee de Longchamps, and on reaching 
the point where it crosses the Alice de la Reine Marguerite (see 
Plan), follow a carriage-way to the right, which leads to the 

Croix Catelan, a venerable but mutilated relic, which has 
outlived all the political disturbances and revolutions of France 
since the 14th century. It is a pyramid erected by Philippe 
le Bel, to commemorate the murder of a celebrated troubadour 
named Arnauld de Catelan, whom he had invited to Paris 
from the court of Beatrix of Savoy. (2) The upper part of 

(1) The surplus water from the large lake is received here 
through a small rivulet crossing the Mare aux Biches, and collected 
in a vast basin, 7,ooo square metres in surface, which will hold 
10,000 cubic metres of water. When in full play the cascade 
emits 12,000 cubic metres per hour. The rock-work consists of 
2,000 cubic metres of stone, brought from the forest of Fontaine¬ 
bleau, and re-arranged as nearly as possible in the order in which 
it stood there. The water, when it has reached the lower basin, 
is conveyed in a meandering rivulet to the ponds formed in the 
neighbourhood of the new race-course. 

(2) The king had sent an escort of men-at-arms to conduct the 
troubadour safe through the Boisde Boulogne, then infested with 
robbers. The bard having, in an unguarded moment, boasted 
before these men of the rich treasures of which he was the bearer 
of to the king, they resolved to murder him, and executed their 
bloody purpose at this spot. To their mortification, the rich trea¬ 
sures 'they expected to find turned out to he nothing more than 
a few bottles of valuable essences of Provence manufacture. They 
returned to the royal palace, and gave out that they had wailed 
in vain for Catelan, who had not arrived. Search was made 


492 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

the monument is broken off; but the arms of Provence and of 
Catelan are still distinguishable on the pedestal. 

Adjoining this is the Pre Catelan, where balls and theatri¬ 
cal representations used to be given, but which is now much 
shorn of its greatness. Nevertheless the walks are preserved, 
concerts and other performances are sometimes given, and a 
bowl of good milk may be had at the Swiss dairy. 

On leaving this spot, and proceeding eastwards, the stranger 
will soon reach the lakes again, and may, if so disposed, 
continue his walk along the banks, until he reaches the Parc 
aux Daims (see Map), an enclosed ground where abun¬ 
dance of deer may be seen sporting about on the lawn. Here 
the road leads to the Porte de la Muette, entering which, and 
following the fortifications, we soon arrive at the great nur¬ 
sery for plants (see p. 190) of the City of Paris, and its ice¬ 
houses (1). This spot was selected because, in boring the Ar¬ 
tesian well close by (see p 190), a stratum of rock 52 y 2 feet 
thick had been found, together with a bed of sand which ab¬ 
sorbs moisture. These ice-houses are 230 feet long, 98 in 
breadth, and 52 feet deep. They are divided into 10 compart¬ 
ments, each large enough to contain 1,000,000 kilogrammes 
of ice, of which however only one half is available, there 
being a waste of 50 per cent. 

Should the visitor prefer entering the Parc de Boulogne by 
the Porte Maillot (see p. 193), or by the Porte de Neuilly fur¬ 
ther on, he will find the choicest wood-scenery that can well be 
met with in the neighbourhood of a great capital, and may give 
himself up to quiet meditation ; or, if he be otherwise disposed, 
he may enjoy a delightful ride either in a carriage or on 
horseback. A more Arcadian style of locomotion, in the 
shape of a donkey, is often preferred by the rising generation, 
to be had on hire, at 1 fr. per hour, at the Porte Maillot. 

To enjoy the Park de Boulogne on this side, a slight know¬ 
ledge of its general topography will be of advantage. From 
the Porte Maillot a long avenue, called Avenue de Longclxamps , 
two miles in length, extends as far as Longchamps (see p. 
18 6), meeting the Allee de la Heine Marguerite, of more than 
equal length, about half way. The latter, extending from 

and the body found; but the murderers would most probably 
have escaped discovery, had it not been for one of them who had 
the imprudence to perfume his hair with one of those essences, 
which was so rare that he could not have procured it in Paris. 
Suspicion being awakened, the guilty parties were apprehended, 
confessed their crime, and were condemned to the stake. 

(l) These ice-houses are farmed out at the rate of 2 fr. per 
100 kilos. The consumption per annum is i?, 000,000 lbs. 


JAR DIN D’ACCLIMATATION. 493 

Neuilly to Boulogne, skirts the pretty village of St. James, a; 
cluster of villas near the former gate. The Imperial breeding 
stud is kept here, in buildings which are now receiving con¬ 
siderable additions. Close to this was 

Madrid, a villa built by Francis I., after the model of that 
where he was kept in captivity by Charles Y. It was demo¬ 
lished under Louis XVI., and its place is now occupied by a 
restaurant. Close to this is 

Bagatelle, a beautiful villa, adjoining the Parc de Bou¬ 
logne, and erected by Belanger, in consequence of a wager 
between the Count d’Artois and the Prince of Wales that the 
house could not be built in 60 days ; it was finished in 58. It 
is now the property of the Marquis of Hertford, who purchased 
it for 313,000 fr.; it is fitted up in a style of great elegance. 

Jardin d’Acclimatation. —If, instead of turning to the left 
at the end of the Avenue de lTmperatrice in order to reach the 
Lakes, we turn to the right, we soon find ourselves before the 
entrance to the delightful garden belonging to the Societe 
Imperiale d’ Acclimatation (see p. 106), now one of the chief 
attractions of Paris. It lies close to the Porte des Sablons, 
being that which immediately follows the Porte-Maillot. The 
grounds comprise an area of 33 acres, beautifully laid out in 
walks encircling the pens or enclosures where the quadrupeds 
are kept, and arranged like those of the Garden of Plants, 
with picturesque little cots, containing the stables. Here we 
see the hemione, tapir, Chinese pig, zebu, yak, kangaroo, lama, 
alpaga, and vicunna, besides various kinds of sheep, goats, 
stags, antelopes, gazelles, &c., and even five young lions, 
which, we hope, will not be acclimatized. The grounds are 
intersected by a streamlet, dotted with islands, and spanned 
by rustic bridges. Here various aquatic plants are grown, 
while other rare specimens of the vegetable kingdom abound 
on the surrounding grass-plots, such as the Spanish and Cali¬ 
fornian firs, the Japanese Spirea Argentea and Deutzia Scabra; 
the Chinese plum-tree and Wcigelia Rosea, the North-American 
Virgilia Lutca, the Persian Syringa Laciniata, and the Greek 
fir (Abies Regina Amalia), which grows to a height of 60 feet, 
with a diameter of three feet at the base. Nor should we for¬ 
get the hot-house, 300 feet long, and 90 in breadth, with its 
romantic rivulet and grotto, surrounded with palm-trees and 
other choice plants from tropical climes ; the Abyssinian Musa 
with its gigantic blades, the Australian Dicksonia Antartica 
with its outspreading fernlike leaves springing from a heavy 
trunk; the fan-shaped Latania Borbonica, and many others 
which it would take too long to mention. Proceeding along 
the enclosures which skirt the rivulets, swarming with various 



494 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

kinds of fish from the piscicultnral establishment of Huningett, 
besides ostriches, ducks, geese, and swans from Algeria, 
Canada, Patagonia, Egypt, and other parts of the world, pre¬ 
senting a scene of agreeable animation, we find to our 
right the Aquarium, which, by the efforts of Mr. Alford 
Lloyd, the contractor, and Mr. Wilson, the manager, has 
become the chief attraction of the place. Of the fourteen 
compartments which compose it, the first four are devoted to 
fresh-water fish, such as trout, salmon, eels, carp, &c. The 
habits of these finny occupants may here be accurately watched, 
whether to admire their almost transparent bodies, or to follow 
their motions either upwards to dart at some fly, or down¬ 
wards, to rest themselves on the sand. The three next com¬ 
partments are chiefly tenanted by various kinds of actiniae, 
or sea-anemones, some of extraordinary beauty, attached here 
and there to the rocks with which the compartments are 
lined. Among these strange creatures there are also some 
echinodermata, such as sea-hedgehogs, star-fish, See., quite as 
sluggish as the anemones. The remaining compartments are oc¬ 
cupied by zoophytes, Crustacea, mollusks, cephalopodes, &c. 
Not far from this, there is an elevated artificial rock for the ga¬ 
zelles, pierced with a grotto, from the crevices of which a good 
view may be obtained of the surrounding scenery. The ob¬ 
long building at the opposite end of the stream contains stables 
with ten stalls for different quadrupeds of the larger sort, 
including the celebrated aurochs or bison of Lithuania, and 
a room for refreshments. On the opposite side of the stream 
there is a semicircular amphitheatre, with 28 wired enclo¬ 
sures for poultry ; here also we may see the red flamingo of 
Cuba, a few large Indian cranes, some blue ones from the 
Cape of Good Hope, and a few handsome specimens of the 
Stanley demoiselle from Caffraria. Further on, opposite to a 
statue of Daubcnton, the naturalist, is avast aviary, consisting 
of 16 wired cages, each provided with a little fountain and 
shrubs, and tenanted by peacocks, pheasants, doves, the 
Chinese Tragopan, the Columba cristata of Java, &c., Sec. 
The visitor should stay until after sunset, when the keepers 
are busied in coaxing the birds into their respective roosting- 
places. The number of eggs laid hereby the fowls is immense, 
and the sale of them produced in 18 63 the sum of 10,000 fr. 
The sale of animals produced 105,000 fr. The last object of 
importance on this side is a kokh, or silkworm nursery, where 
experiments have been made for the acclimatization of the 
Chinese and Japanese silkworms, hardier races than the com¬ 
mon one. The garden and hot-houscs are visible daily at the 
charge of 1 fr. Carriages entering the grounds pay 3 fr. 


ALFOUT. 


495 


PART IV. 

ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

[For a list of conveyances, see Pages Lefore Title. J 

ALFORT.—This village, two leagues from Paris, near the 
confluence of the Seiue and the Marne, is celebrated for a vete¬ 
rinary school founded by Bourgelat, in 17 64. This establish¬ 
ment possesses a library of domestic zoology, a cabinet of 
comparative anatomy, and another of pathology. There are 
also a botanical garden, hospitals for sick animals, a laboratory, 
a pharmacy, ground for the cultivation of grasses, a school of 
practical agriculture, a flock of sheep for experiment, a herd 
of swine, a set of bee-hives, and an amphitheatre, where 
lectures are delivered upon veterinary medicine and rural 
economy. Pupils from the north of France are admitted at 
Alfort upon the presentation of the Minister of Commerce and 
Agriculture, either as boarders, at 360 fr. a-year, or as gra¬ 
tuitous pupils. The establishment is endowed with sixty 
demi-bourses for as many pupils nominated by the Prefect of the 
Seine, and approved by the Minister. The Minister of War 
also has 40 pupils in the school destined for veterinary service 
in the cavalry. They are received from the age of 17 to 25, 
and the duration of their studies is four years. They must all 
understand arithmetic, grammar, and smith’s work. The 
number of pupils is limited to 300. Animals that require 
treatment are admitted at a charge of 50 sous a-day for a 
horse, and 12 sous for a dog. If their owners are poor, the 
only charge made is for their keep. In case of murrain 
among cattle, pupils or professors are sent to treat them (1). 

ARCUEIL. -This village, on the Paris and Sceaux Railway, 
has a remarkable church of the 15th century. Its name is 
derived from the arches of the aqueduct constructed by the Ro¬ 
mans (seep.27). The country round is picturesque. 

ARGENTEUIL.—A large village, 2 y 2 leagues north of Paris, 
on the Seine. There was a priory here, founded in 656, to 
which Eloisa retired in 1120, till the Paraclete was prepared 

(l) The annual cost to Government of this and the veterinary 
schools of Lyons and Toulouse, comprising altogether 600 stu¬ 
dents, is 492,000 fr. The average number of horses kept in 
them is 1 350 . The expenses amount to 1,921,900 fr. In the sheep 
farms at Rambouillet, Perpignan, and Lahayevaux, there are 
1,500 animals, the keep of which amounts to 116,000 fr. a-year. 



496 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

for her by Abelard. A tunic, said to be that of our Saviour, 
woven by the Virgin Mary, is preserved here. Gregory of 
Tours states that it was brought to France in the reign of 
•Charlemagne, and deposited in the convent of Argenteuil, 
where his sister and daughter were nuns. If this be the 
genuine one, those at Moscow and Rome must he counterfeits, 
for the legends say that the Virgin made her Son only one tunic 
which increased in size as he grew. At present there are 
considerable iron works here. A branch of the St. Germain 
Railway connects this place with Colombes and Asnieres. 

ARNOUVILLE.—Four leagues north of Paris. Louis XVIII. 
passed three days in the chateau of this place previous to enter¬ 
ing Paris, in 1815; and here he drew up his Charter. 

ASNIERES—is a pretty village on the St. Germain railway. 
Its summer balls are much frequented (see p. 481). 

AUTEUIL—(See p. 189.) 

BAGNEUX—a village on the Paris and Sceaux railroad, with 
a church of the 12th century. 

BELLEVILLE.—(Seep. 452 .) 

BEAUVAIS—a town of 13,000 inhabitants, in the depart¬ 
ment of the Oise, 72 kilometres from Paris, on the Northern 
railway. It was the capital of the Bellovaci , who surren¬ 
dered to Caesar without striking a blow, b.c. 57 . It was 
ravaged by the Normans in 850, and besieged by the British 
m 1443. Its chief attraction at present is the celebrated Im¬ 
perial tapestry manufactory, to view which tickets may be 
obtained by writing to M. le General Bolin, aux Tuileries ; 
it also possesses a remarkably fine cathedral. 

BELLEVUE—a village two leagues west of Paris, delight¬ 
fully situated on the hill leading to Meudon from Sevres. From 
the terrace an enchanting and extensive view is obtained of 
Paris and the windings of the Seine. Close to the Chartres 
railway, which passes through it, is a triangular Gothic cha¬ 
pel, dedicated to Notre Dame des Flammes, in commemora¬ 
tion of the dreadful railway accident which took place there 
on May 8, 1842, when 208 persons perished, most of them by 
the ignition of the carriages in which they were locked up. 

BERCY.—(See p. 280). A new village of this name has 
now sprung up outside the fortifications, for the sake of ware¬ 
housing wines without paying the octroi. 

BICETRE.—This is a celebrated hospital, situated in the 
small commune of Gcnlilhj, outside the fortifications, and 
dose to the fort of Bicetre, John, bishop of Winchester, 
built here, in 1204, a chateau, which was named Chateau de 
Wincestre, from whence came Bicestre , Bicetre. The Duke 
4e Berry gave it, in 1416, to the chapter of Notre Dame, of 


BICETRE. 497 

whom Louis XIIT. bought it in 1632, and erected on Us site an 
hospital for military invalids, which took the title of Com- 
manderie de St. Louis. Louis XIY. having built the Invalides, 
this house was annexed to the general hospital de la Salpe- 
triere. Bicetre is situated on lofty ground, and the air is bet¬ 
ter than in most hospitals of Paris. It is supplied with water 
by machinery from two wells, sunk to 172 feet, in 1775. 
Bicetre is used as an asylum for indigent old men, and male 
lunatics, and may receive 2000 patients. It presents a square of 
900 ft. on each side, and contains 3 courts. The indigent and in¬ 
firm old men occupy the greater part of the building. They 
have no private rooms, but there are large rooms with work¬ 
shops and dormitories, as also several gardens and court-yards 
for exercise. They are obliged to work three hours a-day at 
their respective trades or other occupations, and receive in re¬ 
turn a share of the profits; the rest goes towards defraying the 
expenses of the establishment. The daily allowance to the 
indigent is a portion of soup, a pound and a quarter of bread, 
four ounces of meat for dinner, vegetables or cheese at night, 
and a quarter of a pint of wine. The average daily cost of each 
individual is 90 c., and the total annual expense about 900,000 
francs. The class of persons called reposans are such servants 
of the hospital as are unable to work. The number of patients 
is about 900, who have the same allowance as paupers, except 
bread, of which they receive a larger quantity. The insane, 
when not dangerous, are treated most leniently. There are 
various sorts of schools in the establishment for lunatics of all 
ages. Gonoerts are occasionally given, at which both the per¬ 
formers and the audience are lunatics; they are found to act 
very beneficially on the mind (1). Until 1835 a vast prison 
was situated within the walls of the hospital, but is now re¬ 
placed by the prison in the rue de la Boquette (see page 458). 
Upwards of 2 , 000,000 fr. have been expended on this 
establishment. For the Ferme S te. Anne, see p. 443. 

Near this is the Park of Montsouris, covering 16 acres, and 
laid out like that of Vincennes. 

BOURG-LA-BEINE—2 leagues south of Paris. There is a 
house here, with a park, built by Henry IV. for Gabrielle d’Es- 
trees. Here Louis XV. received the infanta of Spain, in 1722, 
and Condorcet, persecuted by the Convention, committed suicide 
by poison, in 1794. The cattle-market, called Marche de 
Sceaux, for the butchers of Paris, is now suppressed. The 
Paris and Sceaux railroad has a station here. 

(1) The number of patients annually discharged at present is 
seven times greater than it used to he 50 years ago. The total 
number of lunatics in all France is about 50 , 000 . 


32 








498 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

BUG—a village 4% leagues south-west of Paris, is remark* 
able for the aqueduct of 19 arches erected by Louis XIY. 
which conveys water to Versailles (half a league distant). 
Near this place is the source of the Bievre, which falls into 
the Seine near the Garden of Plants. 

CHANTILLY—a town 10 leagues north of Paris, was once 
celebrated as the residence of the illustrious house of Conde. 
The estate of Chantilly having lapsed to the crown in 1484, 
Charles VIII. gave it to Guillaume de Montmorency, his nephew, 
one of whose descendants having forfeited his head and his 
estates in 1632, Louis XIII. presented Chantilly to the Princess 
de Conde, sister of the duke alluded to. It was finally pre¬ 
sented, in 1661, by Louis XIV., to the Great Conde. (1) His 
descendants continued here till the revolution of 17 89, when 
that part of the princely mansion called Le Grand Chateau, 
was demolished, and the works of art, except such as had been 
removed and secreted, were destroyed, together with the gar¬ 
den. On the Restoration, in 1814, the Petit Chateau was 
restored to the house of Conde, and many improvements were 
made by the last of that name, who frequently resided here, 
and made it his hunting-seat. On his melancholy death in 1830 
(see p. 3 2 5n), Chantilly descended to the Duke d’Aumale, 4th son 
of Louis Philippe, who frequently visited it, with other mem¬ 
bers of the royal family. In consequence of the decree of Jan. 
22d, 1852, forcing the Orleans family to dispose of all their 
property in France, it has now changed hands, and has been 
bought by two of the partners of the house of Coutts and Co. 
The chateau, which is situated in the midst of a lake, is one of 
the finest monuments of the style of the Renaissance in ex¬ 
istence. In the state-rooms and gallery are the battles of the 
Grand Conde, painted by Van der Meulen. There are also, be¬ 
sides the state rooms, a chapel, and a Chinese cabinet. It is 
surrounded by vast grounds, laid out in the English and French 
style, with gardens, lawns, parterres, islands, grottos, and pic¬ 
turesque walks. The stables of Chantilly, considered the finest 

(i) The great Conde here spent his latter years, after retiring 
from military life, in the society of Racine, Boileau, Bossuet., and 
other literary men of his age. Conde took great pride in this 
beautiful retreat, and pleasure in embellishing it; and when 
Louis XIV., who had a claim on it, indicated a desire to obtain 
possession, he said, “ Vous etes le maitre; mais j’ai unc grace 
h demander h Yotre Majesty, e’est de me laisser a Chantilly 
comrae votre concierge and the King had the moderation not 
to interfere. Cond6 was honoured by a visit from the King in 
1671. It was on this occasion Vatel, the celebrated cook, ran 
himself through with his sword in despair, because the fish did 
not arrive in time for dinner. 


CHANTILLY. 4 99 

ill Europe, are at some little distance from the Chateau, and 
form even a more magnificent pile of buildings than the pa¬ 
lace. They are capable of holding 180 horses, and connected 
with them are other buildings for the accommodation of hounds, 
carriages, Sec. The exterior and interior are tastefully deco¬ 
rated with pieces of sculpture representing sporting subjects, and 
the lawn in front is magnificent. Admission to the Chateau 
stables, and grounds is obtained without difficulty. The forest 
of Chantilly, adjoining the park, contains 7,600 acres. In the 
midst of it is a circular area called the Table Iionde, from 
which 12 roads branch in different directions, and this is the* 
ordinary rendezvous of sporting parties. Here also tiie festival! 
of St. Hubert, the patron of sportsmen, used to be celebrated 1 ,.. 
The pretty lakes of Commellc, at about an hour’s walk across 
the forest, are fed by a little river called La Theve, and skirted 
by the village of Commelle and the Chateau de la logo 
which is said to have been built by Blanche de Castinc' 
mother of St. Louis. Races, fashionably attended, take- place 
at Chantilly in May and October. At the May meetings the 
Derby is run for, and in the October the St Leger. The Go¬ 
vernment gives stakes amounting to several hundred pounds, 
and the Jockey Club and the authorities of the Department 
also give prizes to be contended for. Several racing studs 
are kept at Chantilly, on account of the facilities for train¬ 
ing. Duke de Morny had a large establishment of the kind 
near the railway station. The number of race-horses at Chan¬ 
tilly is now about 200. There was also a hunting society, 
here, which has been broken up. The Prince de Sagan,, 
grandson to the Due de Talleyrand, however, has bought up > 
the establishment, and intends keeping, it on until the expira-- 
tion of the lease. The indemnities.to the proprietors over* 
whose lands sporting is carried on, amount to about 50,ooofr.. 
A very neat English Protestant church, St. Peter’s, has now been 1 
erected here by voluntary subscription. The Rev. T. W.. 
Wilkinson, has beenlicensed by the Bishop of London to beChap- 
lain. The Northern railway takes visitors direct to Chantilly. 

CHARENTON—was celebrated under Henry IV., Louis XIII... 
and XIV., for the controversies which took place there between 
Catholics and Protestants. In 1G44 the Minister Deblanc con¬ 
verted it into an asylum for lunatics of both sexes ; in 1797 
it was specially devoted under the name of MaisonNationals' 
de Charenton pour le traitement des alienes, to cases of 
curable insanity ; but this restriction is now removed. The mode- 
of treatment by giving employment and amusement to the* 
patient, with the apparent absence of restraint, has been found] 

1 very successful. The dormitories are spacious,, well-lighted^ 







500 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

airy, &c.; and the passages are warmed by iron pipes under 
the floor. The asylum is under the authority of the Minister I 
of the Interior, and the superintendence of a special committee. I 
Persons are received here as boarders, and gratuitously on an i 
order from the minister, who has a certain number of bourses \ < 
at his disposal, to be applied for a limited time in favour of i 
persons having claims on the government. There are three i i 
classes of boarders : the first, those who pay 1,425 fr., and I 
upwards; the second, 1,125 fr.; and the third, 828 fr., in¬ 
cluding washing. Certificates, signed by medical men not i 
more than a fortnight before admission, are to be presented on ( 
the part of lunatics previous to their being allowed to enter, i 
and certain formalities have to be complied with. Admission is 
granted at all times to friends of patients; but the public are 
only admitted from noon to 4 o’clock, on Thursdays and Sun¬ 
days, to the courts and gardens. Lunatics, whether cured or not, 
are restored to their families on permission of the authority which 
ordered their admission. A stone bridge over the Marne con- i 
nects Charenton with Alfort. 

CHARTRES—the capital of the department of Eure-et-Loir, 
a town of 18,000 inhabitants, celebrated for its splendid 
cathedral, and easily accessible from Paris by the Western 
railroad. It was once the capital of the fertile Reauce, 
and is situated on a slope, at the bottom of which runs the 
Eure, washing the only remaining portion of the old forti¬ 
fications and two of the city gates. Chartres is one of the 
largest corn markets in France: its Cathedral is one of 
the most magnificent in Europe, conspicuously situated on 
the hill on which the city stands. Henry IV. was crowned 
in the choir of this church, Feb. 27 th, 1594. Its most striking 
features are its two rich and singular lateral portals, its painted 
glass, scarcely equalled in France, and its three rose-windows. 
This edifice was commenced by Bishop Fulbert, in 1029, but 
was not dedicated till 12GO. The western front was com¬ 
pleted in 1145, with the exception of the elegant crocketed 
northern spire, raised in 1514, partly at the charge of Louis 
XII., by J. Texier; it is 370 feet high, and the upper part of 
beautifully light work. The exterior is adorned with 1,800 
historical statues, and 2,000 more are disseminated round 
the choir and interior. The western front and portal, 
ornamented with statuary in the Byzantine style, illustrative 
of the New Testament, is inferior to the two entrances on the 
northern and southern sides, consisting of triple Gothic porticos 
resting on clustered pillars. The statues which line the sides 
and vaults are of a superior style of art, and of the 14th cen¬ 
tury. Its vast dimensions do not strike the spectator at 




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CHARTRES, 501 

first sight, but its length is 422 feet, and the height to 
the apex of its roof 112 feet. The style throughout the 
nave and choir is the vigorous early Gothic. In the 
centre of the nave a maze or labyrinth, of intricate circles, 
is marked out on the pavement in coloured stone; to follow it 
through its windings (1,320 feet long), saying prayers at cer¬ 
tain stations, was probably at one time a penitential exercise. 
The church possesses a perfect treasure of painted glass, more 
than 130 windows being completely filled, and few being quite 
destitute of this splendid ornament. They date from the 13th 
century. The three rose-windows at the end of the nave and tran¬ 
septs are remarkable for their size, 30 or 40 feet in diameter, and 
their complicated tracery, which however is somewhat heavy. 
The subjects are generally sacred, but the lower compartments 
contain representations of various trades—shoemakers, basket- 
makers, &c., showing that their guilds or corporations were the 
donors. The choir has double aisles, and ends in ahemicycle 
towards the east; in the inside 8 marble bas reliefs of scrip¬ 
tural subjects are inserted, and behind the high altar is a 
huge piece of marble sculpture, in the taste of the time of 
Louis XIII. The outside of the screen, which separates the 
choir from its aisles, is ornamented with a series of remarkable 
Gothic sculptures, representing the life of Christ or the Virgin 
Mary, in 45 compartments, surrounded with the most elaborate 
tracery and tabernacle work. They were begun in 1514, and 
continued down to the middle of the 17 th century, and are in¬ 
teresting as some of the final efforts of Gothic art. The execu¬ 
tion has been compared to ‘‘ point lace in stone, and some of 
the sculptured threads are not thicker than the blade of a pen¬ 
knife.” After exploring this noble edifice, the traveller may 
inspect the churches of St. Pierre and St. Andre, which, though 
not comparable, are still worth a passing visit; St. Andre, 
(“ to what vile uses may we come at last! ”) divested of its 
sacred character, is now a magazine for forage. Chartres 
abounds with antiquities of the Gallo-Roman period and the 
Middle Ages. It has a public library, comprising 30,000 
volumes, besides 900 MSS. 

CHATENAY—a mile and a-half south of Sceaux, is celebrated 
as being the birth-place of Voltaire, in 1694. 

CIIOISY-LE-ROl.—This large village, VA leagues fromParis, 
is so called from a chateau, a favourite residence of Louis XV. 
It is celebrated for its glass and morocco manufactories. Close 
to the railroad station the Seine is crossed by a bridge. 

COLOMBES—a neat little village on the St. Germain railroad. 

COMPIEGNE.—This town, with 9, oooinhabitants, 19 leagues 
north-east of Paris, near the confluence of the Oise and the 




502 ENVIRONS OF TARIS. 

Aisne, possesses a palace agreeably situated between the 
town aaad the forest. Its origin dates from the 4th century. 

In 5*J'2 Clotaire I. died of a malady contracted there; councils 
wea’e held at Compiegne in 823 and 833, by the latter of 
which Louis leDebonnaire was dethroned. Another council, 
tieldhere in 871, excommunicated Carloman ; here also Louis 
lie Begue was crowned in 877, and buried in 879. In 977 
•Louis Y. died here. In 1200 St. Louis founded its palace; in 
1364 Charles V. held the town against the King of Navarre ; 
in 1430 the Maid of Orleans was made prisoner here by the 
English; in 1539 Francis I. here received an embassy from 
Charles V.; in 1624, Cardinal Richelieu signed a treaty of 
peace with the Dutch in the palace, where, 146 years later, 
Louis XVI. first met Marie Antoinette, and Napoleon in 1810, 
received the Archduchess Maria Louisa. In 1814, Louis 
XVIII. here received the visit of Alexander of Russia and 
Bernadotle of Sweden. Lastly, in 1833, the marriage of 
Princess Louisa, daughter of Louis Philippe, with King Leo¬ 
pold of Belgium, was celebrated in the chapel of the palace. 

The Palace. —It is situated on the Place du Chateau , a 
spacious square, surrounded with alleys of lime-trees, and was 
feuilt by Louis XV. and Louis XVI. The entrance is through 
a Doric portico connecting two lateral wings which, with the 
main body, enclose the Cour d’Honneur. The Grand Vestibule , 
a long Doric gallery, adorned with marble busts of Roman 
Emperors, leads by the j Escalier d’Honneur , a fine double- 
branched staircase, flanked with marble statues of l’Hopital 
-and d’Aguesseau, to the Salle des Gardes, a long Doric hall, 
adorned with splendid panoplies and pieces of armour of beau¬ 
tiful workmanship. The Salon des Huissiers, to the left, 
contains a hunting scene under Louis XV., painted by Audry, 
and two other pictures of hounds, by Desportes. The follow¬ 
ing Salle a Manger de VEmpereur, an Ionic hall, opening 
into the garden, and painted in grisaille by Sauvage, opens 
to the right into a suite of apartments formerly inhabited by 
Madame Adelaide, sister to Louis Philippe, and now reserved 
for the use of Princess Mathilde. The King of Prussia occu¬ 
pied them in October, 1861. The suite consists of a Salon 
d’Attente, painted in grisaille by Sauvage, and adorned with 
a splendid rural scene, executed in Gobelins tapestry , a Salon 
de Reception, with busts of Napoleon I. and III., and the 
Empress Eugenie, and three mythological subjects in Gobelins 
tapestry, and lastly a Charnbre a Voucher, with full-length 
pictures of the Emperor and Empress, and beautiful arabesques 
painted in the panels. Returning to the dining room, a 
door leads to the Salon des Aides-de-Camp, containing large 



C0MP1EGNE. 503 

maps, painted on canvas, of the forests of Compiegne, Fon¬ 
tainebleau, St. Germain, and Marly. Next follows the Salon 
de Famille, where the Imperial family meet in the evening, 
the Salon du Conseil, a splendid room, with a Gobelins car¬ 
pet and Beauvais furniture. The walls are adorned with three 
line pieces of Gobelins tapestry, representing sacrifices to Pallas, 
Flora, and Ceres, from originals painted in 17 87, by Suvee. The 
Emperor’s bedroom, with a splendid gilt bedstead and canopy, 
is such as it w r as in the time of Napoleon I. ; the furniture is 
red damask, and the ceiling painted in compartments, by 
Girodet, who has also painted those of the Library, a spa¬ 
cious room, with carved and gilt bookcases. The central 
compartment here represents Mercury, Pallas, and Apollo. 
We next enter the Salon de Musiquc of the Empress, with 
four pieces executed in Gobelins tapestry, representing Chinese 
and other oriental subjects. Next follows the Empress’s bed¬ 
chamber, a most gorgeous apartment. The ceiling and panels, 
painted by Girodet, represent the Evening Star, and the Sea¬ 
sons. Over the richly gilt bedstead hovers the Imperial 
eagle; the furniture is also gilt and covered with red damask. 
Adjoining is a bath and cabinet de toilette, also beautifully 
furnished. The bed chamber leads to the Salon de Reception 
of the Empress; the ceiling and panels over the doors are 
painted by Girodet. All these rooms were inhabited by the 
Queen. The following room is the Salon des Ft ears, which 
is now the bed-chamber reserved for the Prince Imperial. 
Adjoining is his reception room, which was arranged in 1811 
for the King of Rome. The coves of the ceiling, by Girodet, 
represent Departure, War, Victory, and the Return. Descend¬ 
ing a staircase we find the Salle du Spectacle, with three 
tiers of galleries, and capable of containing 800 persons. 
It is richly painted and gilt. The front seats arc for the Em¬ 
peror and Empress ; those behind are for the Princes, and the 
members of the court occupy the adjoining side galleries. The 
suite behind the Empress’s rooms comprises a private dining 
room, and the Galerie de Don Quichotte, with 31 paintings 
by Coypel, father and son, representing the most striking scenes 
of Cervantes’ masterpiece. From this we enter the Salon 
d’Attente of the Grande Galerie des Batailles, with a 
painting of “Stags at Rest,” by Martinus. The Galerie 
itself is a gorgeous saloon, built by Napoleon I., the 
vaulted ceiling, supported by 20 Corinthian columns, il¬ 
lustrates in 12 allegorical compartments, by Girodet, the vic¬ 
tories of Wagram, Austerlitz, etc. It is 100 feet by 40, and 
30 feet in height, and is lighted by 13 large lustres. A full- 
length statue of Napoleon J,, and another of Madame Letitia 





504 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

seated, occupy the extremities. The following room contains 
a hunting piece, and a beautiful “Dream of Napoleon I.” 

To the right of this is the Galerie Neuve, built in 1858. It 
is adorned with a series of eight paintings by Natoire, com¬ 
pleting the series of scenes from Don Quixote above described. 
Returning to the preceding room, a door opposite opens into 
the Anti-Chapelle , adorned with fine Gobelins tapestry, re¬ 
presenting High Mass, Leo X., and the Defeat of Maxentius, 
copied from the Vatican at Rome. The present chapel is 
Doric and Ionic ; the window represents, in stained glass, the 
Creator, Faith, and Hope. This palace is visible every day 
from 10 to 4, when the Emperor is absent. 

A spacious terrace behind the palace, adorned with sphynxes, 
statues of Ulysses, Mutius Scaevola, and good copies from the 
antique, in white marble, slopes down into the Garden, 
which is laid out in the English style, and contains several 
good statues, both bronze and marble. A portion of the 
forest is seen from the terrace, and an arbour of iron 
frame-work, 4800 feet long and 14 feet in breadth, leads 
from the palace to the forest. There is also a canal of about 
the same length. To the left the terrace ends in a fine avenue 
of lime trees, planted on part of the old ramparts of Compiegne 
dating from 1199. The forest of Compiegne contains 36,590 
acres, 338 roads, forming a length of 220 leagues; 21 ponds, 
318 bridges, and 11 fountains. Its value is 49,000,000 fr. 
All the finger-posts pointing to the town are painted red. 

The Town of Compiegne is irregularly built, but it pos¬ 
sesses, besides the palace, three remarkable edifices. The 
Hdtel de Ville is a Gothic structure of the end of the 14 th cen¬ 
tury. This building is not unworthy of a visit. In the Council 
Chamber is Papety’s picture, Un Reve de Bonheur, besides 
full length pictures of the Emperor and Empress, and a fine \ 
forest scene by Veilquez. The public library, composed of 
12,000 volumes, is in one of the contiguous rooms. On 
the second story is a museum, founded by M. Vivenel. It 
contains a numerous series of Etruscan vases, Roman 
lamps, medals, etc.; St. Veronica and St. Francis de Paula, 
by Annibal Caracci; two boys, by Murillo; dogs, by Jadin ; 
Charity, by Landelle ; three paintings, by Boucher; two 
beautiful pastel landscapes, by Chamorin, and other valuable 
pictures and designs ; also an altar-screen of alabaster, 
of the 15th century, with the Passion carved in haut-relief 
in 14 compartments, once belonging to St. Germain l’Aux^ 
errois; the bedstead and arm-chair of Henry II.; a 
spur of Joan of Arc, Egyptian antiquities, minerals and 
plaster casts. The Eglise St. Jacgucs , remarkable for 




COMPIEGNE. 505 

its fine tower and pure pointed style throughout, con¬ 
tains two remarkable paintings in the transepts ; one is Queen 
Anne of Austria, consort of Louis XIII., renewing the vow 
she had made to the Virgin ; the other, Christ at Emmaus, 
but with the curious circumstance of the presence of Anne of 
Austria, her children and her courtiers on the picture. There 
is also a copy, by Philippe de Champagne, of Titian’s Entomb¬ 
ment of Jesus. The front of the church of St. Antoine, 
canopied and spired, is a gem of the florid Gothic. There 
is some fine old stained glass representing sacred sub¬ 
jects, dating from 1540, in two of the chapels; the Lady 
Chapel has three stained windows of modern execution. The 
only paintings worth mentioning are: an Assumption, by 
Manchard ; a Flight to Egypt, by Mattez ; and an old paint¬ 
ing of two Benedictine nuns in prayer. An English Pro¬ 
testant church, St. Andrew’s, has recently been constructed 
here, at the expense of the Hon. Mrs. Russell Barrington. 

A military camp is sometimes formed at Compiegne in autumn. 
A branch of the Northern Railroad leads to this town. Those 
who have taken the precaution of starting by an early train, 
may enjoy a delightful drive to 

Pierrefonds —for which place vehicles start from the Hotel 
de la Cloche, Place de 1’Hotel de Ville, at a charge of 2 fr. a-head; 
cabriolets or Americaines may also be had at various prices, 
return included. The whole excursion takes about four hours, 
and is well worth the trouble. Pierrefonds, 12 kilometres 
from Compiegne, is situated on the southern border of the 
picturesque forest of that name, and is remarkable for a fine 
old castle of the 14 th century, situated on the crest of a steep 
! rock overlooking the village. An older one existed in the 11th 
i 1 century, not far from this spot, where the Forme du Iiocher 
now stands. The Pairie of Pierrefonds was one of the oldest 
( of the kingdom, until it became a royal domain. The present 
castle was built by Louis d’Orleans, Count of Valois, brother 
to Charles VI., the same who was assassinated by the emis- 
i saries of the Due de Bourgogne in 1407 (see p. 27In.) The 
latter immediately afterwards sent the Count de St. Pol to 
' besiege Pierrefonds, who got possession of it by capitulation. 

In 1413 he was himself compelled by Charles VI. to give it 
; up to the son of Louis d’Orleans, but before yielding to the 
royal mandate he set it on fire, and a large portion of it was 
[ thus destroyed. In 1589 the castle was occupied by a bold 
. robber chief, named Rieux, who laid the surrounding country 
under contribution, and in 1591 sustained two sieges by the 
| forces of Henry IV., under the Duke of Eperaon and the Mare- 
chal de Biroji, He was at length caught by stratagem, and 








506 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

hanged at Compiegne in 1593. His feudal lord, St. Cliaraant, 
sustained a third siege after his death, and obtained an 
honourable capitulation. The castle sustained a fourth siege 
in 1616, when Villeneuve, a second Rieux, capitulated after a 
determined resistance. Cardinal Richelieu afterwards caused 
the castle to he partly demolished. In 1798 the ruins were 
sold for 8,000 fr. as national property ; in 1812 Napoleon T. 
bought them for 5,000 fr., and they have belonged to the 
Crown ever since. The present Emperor has restored the 
castle to its former state, and enriched it with a splendid 
Gallery of Ancient Armour. —Over the entrance of this 
gallery, which is 55 metres long by 11 in breadth, there are 
figures of Charlemagne and of several warriors on horseback, 
and, above these, two angels bearing the Imperial arms. The 
gallery is covered on both sides with sculptured wood pan- 
nelling, with cases jutting out at regular distances ; 29 pedes¬ 
tals support magnificent suits of armour, between each suit 
there arc trophies and panoplies. At the further extremity 
rises a vast chimney-piece, representing a fortress. The 
armour dates back to the 15th century : it is Italian, peaked, 
and fluted (called Maximilian), &c. The most curious of these 
is that which belonged to a crusader, Christopher Furer. To 
the left of this stands his handywork, a small model, in wood, 
of the tomb of Christ. To the right of the gallery we see 
boys’ armour and weapons of various kinds, Sec. Among 
those may be observed a double-handed sword of an execu¬ 
tioner in 1699. On the portion of the blade, near the hilt, 
on one side, are the words: Iuslitia manet in ceternum, and 
on the other: Fiat justitia, pereat munclus. Attached to 
the side of the scabbard is a small dagger, which the execu¬ 
tioner made use of to finish his victim; and a mould shaped 
instrument of steel, on which he sharpened the sword of 
justice. The most remarkable objects are in the centre of the 
gallery. First, the saddle, harness, and cuirass of the horse 
of Louis XIII., together with the armour he wore in his youth. 
The rarest and most valuable articles are exposed in a glass 
case; a cuirass of the 16th century, which cost 15,550 fr. ; 
a sword of Charles XII. of Sweden, on the blade of which are 
the words * Deo soli gloria ; a sword presented by Pope 
Clement the VIII. to Henry IV. in 1595, when that monarch 
abjured the Protestant religion ; two magnificent pistols with 
sculptured ivory handles, of the 17th century, presented by 
the Empress ; rapiers, cartouch-boxes, daggers, spurs of gold 
richly chased, head-pieces, etc., etc. ; the front-piece of the 
horse which Charles V. rode on the day of his double corona¬ 
tion at Bologna in 1530 (24th February, the anniversary of 




PIERIIEFONDS. 507 

the victory of Pavia); two helmets of the Guards of the Doges 
of Venice, lined with velvet, and having the Lion of St. Mark, 
in gilt bronze, on the crest; poniards of a very peculiar 
model, named daggers of mercy, and Langue de Boeuf, etc. 
Visible on Thursdays and Sundays from 12 to 4. 

The village below is acquiring some importance from the 
sulphurous spring discovered there in 184 0. A bathing estab¬ 
lishment, provided with every comfort, has been erected, and 
several pretty houses have sprung up around it. 

But Pierrefonds is not the only attraction of these parts. 
Following the road to Attichy, at about two kilometres from 
that castle, we arrive at a spot where every stroke of the 
pickaxe reveals the existence of some habitation of the Gallo- 
Roman period, and roofs of houses may be seen peering out of 
the soil. Here Roman wells are found, and innumerable 
relics of the Roman dominion in these regions, such as sculp¬ 
ture, pottery, weapons, etc. Passing through the hamlets of 
Palesne and Morienval, which latter stands on the site of a 
Roman villa, and of one built by Dagobert, while its Byzan¬ 
tine church might adorn a town, we arrive at Orrouy, where 
a guide may be had to show the Roman ruins of 

Champlieu—(Campi locus), where we find a wall which 
forms part of the most complete amphitheatre now in exist¬ 
ence. It has long been known in the neighbourhood as the 
Fer-d-Cheval . In the middle ages it was called Les Tournelles. 
Here Roman coins of Hadrian, Antoninus Pius, and Constantine, 
have been found, and the children of the vicinity will some¬ 
times offer some for sale to the tourists. M. Marchal (de 
Luneville) has published some of the architectural remains, 
busts, and other pieces of sculpture which still exist here. 
This spot was evidently a Roman camp. A temple to 
Apollo stands in the vicinity of the theatre. Part of the 
stairs of the peristyle are still visible, with the well sculptured 
shafts of columns, the capitals and entablatures of which are 
strewn on the ground. 

COURBEVOIE—a village lying beyond Neuilly, and only 
remarkable for the statue of Napoleon I., which stood on the 
Colonne Vendome, and has now been erected here on a granite 
pedestal, facing the Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile, which is 
visible from this spot. 

CORBEIL—8 leagues south of Paris, on the Seine; a town 
of 4,000 inhabitants, with extensive flour-mills and an immense 
corn-warehouse, having 3 65 windows. It carries on a con¬ 
siderable trade in corn and flour. The church of St. Spire, re¬ 
built in 1437, contains the tomb of Jacques deBourgoin, founder 
of the college of Gorbcil (1 GO 1), The small church of St. Jean 


508 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

en l’llle was built by the Templars in the 13th century. A 
branch of the Lyons railway terminates here. 

ENGHIEN-LES-BA1NS.—This village, half an hour from Pa¬ 
ris, is situated on the lake of St. Gratien, between Montmorency 
and the wood of St. Gratien. The sulphurous spring was dis¬ 
covered in 17 66. The waters contain lime, carbon, magnesia, 
soda, and sulphuretted hydrogen gas ; their usual temperature is 
59 degrees of Fahrenheit, but they may be heated much higher 
without losing their properties ; they are efficacious in scrofula 
and other diseases of the skin, intestinal chronic affections, and 
nervous, and rheumatic disorders. Furnished houses and apart¬ 
ments for the accommodation of visitors are very numerous. 
Horses and asses are ready saddled for rides to the delightful 
villages in the vicinity. Balls, similar to those described at 
pp. 479-481, take place here in summer, and attract the 
Parisians in very great numbers, particularly since the exist¬ 
ence of the northern railroad, which has a station at Enghien. 

ERMENONVILLE—10 leagues north-east of Paris, is remark¬ 
able for its chateau, in a dependency of which Jean-Jacques 
Rousseau died. M. de Girardin, having learnt that the small¬ 
ness of Rousseau’s income had compelled him to quit Paris, in¬ 
vited him to Ermenonville, where he arrived on the 20th May, 
1778, but died on the 2d July following, and was buried in an 
island in the great park, called lie des Peupliers, where a mo¬ 
nument was erected to his memory. The park and grounds 
adjoining the chateau are laid out with great taste. 

FONTAINEBLEAU.—This handsome town of 9700 inhabi¬ 
tants, at 59 kilometres S.E. of Paris, is the seat of a suh-pre- 
fecture, and has two hospitals, a Hotel de Ville, a new and 
handsome Palais de Justice, a Protestant college, a church 
(St. Louis), newly rebuilt in a very tasteful style, a theatre, 
public baths, and a porcelain manufactory. It may be 
reached in less than two hours by the Lyons railroad, which 
lias a splendid viaduct of thirty arches at the Fontainebleau 
station. In the middle of the Place Centrale, to the left of 
the Grande Rue, there stands a bronze statue of General Da- 
mesme, who fell in the insurrection of June, 1848. But the 
chief attractions of Fontainebleau are its palace, which stands 
unrivalled for magnificence, and the picturesque forest on 
which it borders. The garden and park are public ; the palace 
is visible every day from 12 till 3. To visit the scenery of the 
forest completely, vehicles are always in readiness, but the price 
must be bargained for beforehand. A Sunday pleasure train 
runs during the summer at reduced fares. 

History. —The forest of Fontaiuebleau was originally called 
the Fortt de Bierre, from the name of a Danish warrior, Bierra, 




FONTAINEBLEAU. 609 

surnamed Cdte de Fer, who in 845 encamped his army here 
after having committed frightful ravages. Its present name 
seems to have been derived from a spring of water, where the 
town now exists, which was found so delicious by thirsty 
huntsmen as to obtain for it the appellation of Fontaine Belle 
Fan. The epoch of the foundation of a royal residence here, 
is uncertain. Some attribute it to King Robert the Devout in 
the eleventh century, but it is at least of the twelfth,, 
several acts having been promulgated here by Louis VII. 
Philippe Auguste also resided at Fontainebleau. Philippe le 
Bel was born and died at Fontainebleau, and his tomb is in 
the small church of the adjoining hamlet of Avon. Louis IX., 
who called Fontainebleau his chers deserts, frequently hunted 
in the forest, founded an hospital, and erected the Chapelle de 
la Sainte Trinite here. It was not however till the 16th cen¬ 
tury that the present chateau was commenced by Francis I., 
and became the favourite residence of that monarch and his im¬ 
mediate successors. In it have taken place many of the most 
remarkable events of French history. Here, in 1539, Francis 
received and feted Charles V. of Germany on his visit to France. 
In 1602 the Marechal de Biron was arrested here, by order of 
Henry IV., on a charge of high treason, and afterwards be¬ 
headed in the Bastille. In 1650 the Marquis de Monaldeschi, 
the secretary and favourite of Queen Christine, was assassinated 
hereby her orders. In 1685, Louis XIV. signed the revocation 
of the Edict of Nantes, and in the following year the great Conde 
died here, as did also in 17 65 the Dauphin, only son of Louis 
XV., father of Louis XVI., Louis XVIII., and Charles X. The 
court having been transferred by Louis XIV. to Versailles, 
Fontainebleau became neglected, and at the revolution it was 
stripped of all its valuable furniture and decorations, and fell 
into thorough decay. Under Napoleon, however, it was par¬ 
tially restored, and became once more the theatre of events. 
In 1808, Charles IV., king of Spain, dethroned by Bonaparte, 
was detained a prisoner here during 24 days. In 1809 the 
divorce between the Emperor and Josephine was pronounced 
here, and three years later Pope Pius VII. became an unwil¬ 
ling inmate of the palace for 18 months. Here Napoleon him¬ 
self, in 1814, signed his abdication, and took leave of the 
imperial eagles. Nothing remarkable took place here during; 
the Restoration, Louis XVIII. and his family having made few 
improvements in Fontainebleau. But in 1831, Louis Philippe 
commenced its complete restoration, and the works proceeded 
with great activity, and at considerable cost; all the first artists 
of France were employed in decorating it; the most scrupulous, 
attention was paid to the restoration of everything to its ori- 



610 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

ginal style, the furniture carefully selected, and the effect of 
the palace rendered the most splendid that can be conceived. 
The latest events that have taken place at Fontainebleau are 
the marriage of the Duke of Orleans, the reception of Queen 
Maria Christina of Spain, Lecomte’s attempt to assassinate 
Louis Philippe in the forest, and the visits of the Grand Duke 
Constantine of Russia, and the King of Bavaria, in May, 1857. 

The Palace. —The vast Cour des Aclieux, formerly Cour 
clu Cheval Blanc, from an equestrian statue in plaster once 
placed here, is separated from the adjoining Place de Solferino 
(lately Place de Ferrare) by an elegant railing, over the cen¬ 
tral gate of which we see two gilt eagles, the same 
which adorned it under Napoleon I. The palace has four 
courts ; viz. the Cour de la Fontaine, the fountain in which is 
surmounted by a fine statue of Ulysses, by Petitot; the Cour 
Ovale, or du Donjon, formerly containing the keep of the cha¬ 
teau ; the Cour des Princes,so called from its apartments having 
been assigned to the Prince de Conde and the Due de Bourbon ; 
and that des Cuisines, or de Henri IV., who added consi¬ 
derably to the works of his predecessors, and took much plea¬ 
sure in adorning the chateau. The Cour des Adieux was de¬ 
signed by the architect Serlio and was once divided into four 
separate portions, for jousts and tournaments. The frontage 
of the chateau is composed of five pavilions, bearing the 
names of, 1, the Pavilion des AumOniers, or de I'Hor- 
loge ; 2, the Pavilion des Ordres ; 3, the middle pavilion, 
called des Peintures, adorned with a bust of Francis I., 
placed there by order of Louis Philippe; 4, the Gros Pavilion ; 
5, the Pavilion des Armes or des Poeles, so named from 
German stoves erected there in the time of Francis I. In the 
centre is a double flight of steps known as the Escalier dufer 
d cheval (so called from being in the form of a horse-shoe), 
constructed by Lemercier in the time of Louis XIII., and a few 
feet in advance of the bottom of these steps is the spot on 
which the Emperor Napoleon bade adieu to his soldiers on the 
20th of April, 1814; and where, eleven months after, he 
reviewed the troops he was about to lead to Paris. The 
other two sides of the court are formed by an old wing of the 
time of Francis I., and a new one, of a different design, erected 
by Louis XV. on the site of the splendid Galerie d'Ulysse, 
thus destroying some of the best frescoes of Primaticcio. 

Interior. —The order in which the visitor is led through 
the different apartments is seldom the same, but whether he 
enter them from the Horse-shoe staircase, or from a door be¬ 
low, he will arrive at a vestibule, with six doors, beautifully 
carved, respectively giving access—1, to the upper gallery of 


FONTAINEBLEAU. 511 

the Chapelle de la Trinite ; 2, the staircase descending into 
it; 3, the Galerie des Fresques, or des Assiettes; 4, the rooms 
formerly occupied by the Duchess of Orleans; 5, to the Horse¬ 
shoe staircase, and G, to the Galcrie de Francois /. The Clia- 
pellede la Trinite was constructed by Francis I., on the site 
of one erected by St. Louis ; a fragment of the latter, a Doric 
arch at the bottom of the nave, still remains. The chapel is 
130 feet by 2G, exclusive of the side chapels. The arched 
ceiling, painted by Freminet, and restored by M. Lejeunc, re¬ 
presents Noah entering the Ark with his children, the Fall of 
the Angels, the Adoration of God, the Announcement of 
the Messiah by the Angel Gabriel, and the Holy Fathers receiv¬ 
ing this announcement. The altar, of the time of Louis XIII., 
is by Bordoni; the altar-piece, the Descent from the Cross, 
was painted by Jean Dubois ; the four bronze angels, and the 
statues of Charlemagne and St Louis, are by Germain Pilon. 
The marriages of Louis XV. and of the late Duke of Orleans, 
as also the baptism of the present Emperor, were celebrated 
here.—The Galerie des Fresques is remarkable for its panels, 
with paintings of Fame, Victory, Juno, Ceres, Flora, etc., by 
Ambroise Dubois, restored byAlaux. The wainscoting below 
is decorated with 128 beautiful plates of Sevres porcelain, re¬ 
presenting the principal residences of the French monarchs, 
and objects relating to the history of Fontainebleau. Re¬ 
turning to the vestibule, we enter the Galerie de Francois 1., 
a magnificent hall, GO metres in length, overlooking the Corn* 
de la Fontaine, with a ceiling divided into massive compart¬ 
ments beautifully gilt, and a maze of scroll-work, caryatides, 
and arabesques in haut-relief on the walls, encompassing fres¬ 
coes by Rosso and Primaticcio, some of which have been re 
stored by M. Couderc, who has added other subjects of his 
own. On the panels of the wainscoting are various devices, 
the letter “F,” and the Salamander, the emblem chosen by 
Francis I. At the further end of this gallery there is a marble 
bust of Francis I., and to the left of this a door gives access 
to a winding staircase, called Escalier St. Louis, beautifully 
designed and carved. 

We must now return to the vestibule, in order to view the 
Appartements des Heines Meres , so called from having been 
formerly assigned to the Queens Dowager. They were inha¬ 
bited by Pius VII. in 1812, and afterwards by the Duchess of 
Orleans. They are all remarkable for splendid specimens of 
Gobelins tapestry. The two first rooms of this suite are now 
filled with the presents brought to the Emperor by the Siamese 
Embassy, which arrived in Paris in the summer of 1861. 
In the first, a press contains several well-wrought bowls and 



512 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

other metal tftensils, girdles* and weapons set with jewels, 
otc. Near this press we see a palanquin with spangled cur¬ 
tains, and a beautiful throne or state-chair on poles, to be car¬ 
ried like a palanquin. To this belongs a rich portable canopy 
•or para sol,.set, like the chair, with precious stones. In the 
second room, which was the Pope’s Salon de Reception, there 
are a saddle and bridle, also studded with jewels, and various 
fancy spears and other weapons of beautiful workmanship, 
and lastly, several banners of a very unusual form, being 
composed of pieces of stuff arranged in circles one above the 
•other, and all richly embroidered. Next follows the Chambre 
.d coucher d’Anne d’Autriche , which was used as an oratory 
by Pius VII. Where the bed now is, stood the altar 
lit was here Napoleon I. attempted to wring from him his 
(consent to the Concordat, by which he renounced temporal 
power. Charles V. of Germany slept in it in 1539, while on 
;a visit to Francis I. The ceiling of this chamber is gorgeously 
*carved and gilt. Over the doors are portraits of Anne and 
Alaria Theresa of Austria. The next rooms are a Cabinet de 
Toilette, with a portrait of Pius VII., who used this room for 
a study; then another toilet-room, and after this, his bed¬ 
room. In the next room is a press, beautifully carved by Jean 
Goujon. The last, the Anti-chambre, is filled with portraits 
of Charles VI., LouisIX., Henry IV., and Louis XIV., by Horo- 
nois; and other paintings by Poussin, Mignard, Breughel, &c. 
This suite is now reserved for royal visitors. 

Returning once more to the first vestibule, the landing place 
of a private staircase leads to the private apartments of Napo¬ 
leon I., which were also inhabited by Louis Philippe, and 
are now reserved for the present Emperor. Like the prece¬ 
ding ones, they are all rich in Gobelins tapestry. In the Anti- 
chambre is a fine portrait of Madame de Montespan ; the paint¬ 
ings over the doors are by Boucher. The Cabinet du Secre¬ 
taire and the Salle dcs bains, a small room completely co¬ 
vered with mirrors adorned with arabesques, brought hither 
from Versailles, lead to the Cabinet Particular, where the 
Emperor signed his abdication, April 5 th, 1814. Here is the little 
table on which it was written, small pieces havingbeen chipped 
off by the curious. The Cabinet de travail contains the Empe¬ 
ror’s writing desk; theceiling, by Regnault, represents Law and 
Force. The Chambre a coucher contains the same furniture 
used by the Emperor; the paintings are by Sauvage. Next 
comes the Salle du Conseil ; its splendid ceiling and the panels 
of the walls are painted by Boucher. The Salle du Trdne 
comes next, richly decorated, with a portrait of Louis XIII. 
by Philippe de Champagne. Opposite stands the throne, with 


FONTAINEBLEAU. 513 

a canopy and curtains of red velvet embroidered with gold bees. 
From the richly-gilt ceiling hangs a magnificent lustre of rock 
crystal, valued at 100,000 francs. This room was begun by 
Charles IX., and decorated by Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. The 
throne and draperies were added by Napoleon. Adjoining this 
is the Roudoir de l’Imperatrice, formerly occupied by Marie 
Antoinette, with a ceiling painted by Barthelemy, representing 
Aurora. The window-fastenings, beautifully adorned with 
wreaths of wrought iron, were made by Louis XVI., who is 
known to have been an adept in the mechanical arts. In the 
centre of the flooring is the cypher of the unfortunate Marie 
Antoinette. Next is the Empress’s Bedchamber ; the curtains 
and furniture were a present of the City of Lyons to Queen 
Marie Antoinette; the ceiling is beautifully carved and gilt. 
It has been successively occupied by Marie Louise, and Marie 
Amelie, late Queen of the French. The following room is the 
Salon de Reception de f Imperatrice, with a fine table of Sevres 
porcelain, with the four Seasons, painted by Georget. The 
panels are by Sauvage, and the ceiling by Barthelemy 
and Vincent. From the Salon cles Dames d'Honneur f 
seven steps lead up to the Galerie de Diane, nearly loo metres 
in length, of Doric architecture; it was partially repaired 
by Napoleon, and completed by Louis XVIII. The ceiling is 
painted by Blondel and Abel de Pujol with scenes from the 
mythology of Diana and Apollo. In the panels are 25 paint¬ 
ings of historical interest, by Granet, Boisselier, Chauvin, 
Remond, Bouton, etc. A recess at the further end, called 
the Salon de Diane , contains a beautiful vase of Sevres por¬ 
celain, with bas-reliefs, illustrative of the Arts and Sciences. 
This room has now become the Library of the Palace; the 
old one, situated in what was once calle the Chape le Haute, 
being now under repair (1). Near one of the windows of the 
gallery we see the coat of mail worn by the unfortunate Mo- 
naldeschi when killed by order of Queen Christina of Sweden, 
on the 10 th of November, 1657. In the centre of the gallery 
there is a picture of Henry IV. on horseback, by Mauzaisse, 
and opposite, a bust of Napoleon III., by Barre. The Em¬ 
peror has another library to himself, which is not visible. 

On leaving this gallery, the visitor passes to the landing 
place of the Escalier de iImperatrice, with paintings relating to 
the chase; the larger one, representing Louis XV. and his 

(0 It is a line specimen of Ihe talent of Setlio, its architect, 
who planned it by order of Francis I. In i 8 7 it became a li¬ 
brary ; its music gallery was built by Henry I’., whose cypher, 
interlaced with that of Diane de Poitiers, is still to he seen on. 
the ceiling. 


33 





514 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

suite a hunting, is by Parrocel, the other by Oudry and Des- 
portes. This staircase leads to the Appartements Particu- 
liers, consisting of seven rooms on the ground-floor, which 
are inhabited by the Prince Imperial and his attendants. The 
furniture is simple, but elegant. Returning to the landing- 
place, we enter the Appartements de Reception , the first of 
which is the Antichambre de la Reine, ornamented with ta¬ 
pestries, the subjects taken from Don Quixote; next is the 
Salon des Tapisseries, remarkable for its ceiling and hangings 
of old Flanders tapestry. The ceiling of this room is executed 
in gilt compartments of inlaid work. The Salon de Fran¬ 
cois I. succeeds, with its fine old chimney-piece, and its new 
Gobelins tapestry, representing events in French history, after 
designs of Rouget. Over the chimney-piece is a medallion, 
representing Mars and Venus, painted by Primaticcio. Here 
also we see a small mirror, presented to Louis XIII. by the Re¬ 
public of Venice. The Salon de Louis XIII. looks upon the 
Cour Ovale. This apartment contains the portrait of Louis 
XIII., who was born in it; it is also adorned with paint¬ 
ings by Ambroise Dubois on the ceiling and panels, with sub¬ 
jects borrowed from the Greek romance of Theagenes and 
Chariclea. The oldest part of the chateau is the Salon St. Louis, 
once inhabited by him, but much altered, indeed nearly recon¬ 
structed at different epochs, between the reigns of Francis I. and 
Louis Philippe. It contains a high-relief in white marble of 
Henry IV. on horseback, by Jacquet, an artist contemporary 
with that great King, whose adventurous life is depicted 
around the chamber; the splendid ceiling was ordered by 
Louis Philippe. Passing through the old Salle des Officiers 
de Service, where there are portraits of Henry IV. and Louis 
XVI. in Gobelins tapestry, we arrive at the Salle des Gardes, 
constructed under Louis XIII. It contains cyphers, in panels, 
of the kings and queens of France, from Francis I. down¬ 
wards, and a fine white marble mantel-piece, flanked by two 
statues of Strength and Peace, by Francarville, and on it 
a bust of Henry IV. Next is the Petit Salon Louis XV., 
with a Diane Chasseresse, by Primaticcio, but this is not 
shown to strangers. Returning by the Salle des Gardes, and 
passing through a small pavilion, we arrive at the Escalier 
d’Honneur. This staircase is remarkable for its elegant scroll¬ 
work caryatides, and wreaths in stucco. Its frescos, by 
Rosso, have been restored by Abel de Pujol. This leads to 
the most imposing room of the whole chateau; it is the Ga- 
lerie de Henri II., or Salle de Bal, constructed by that kin< T 
to please his mistress, Diana of Poitiers. The soffits of the 
arches, as well as the spandrels of its ten windows, were 




FONTAINEBLEAU. 5 J 5 

painted by Primaticcio and Niccolo, and restored by Alanx. 
The subjects relate to Geres, Vulcan, Apollo, Philemon and 
Baucis, Sec. It is 90 feet by 30, and fitted up with the most 
luxurious splendour; the civil marriage of the Duke of Or¬ 
leans was celebrated here in 1837. The highly ornamented 
chimney-piece was the work of the sculptor Rondelet. 

A side passage, communicating with this ball-room near 
the principal entrance, gives access to the Appartements de 
Madame de Maintenon , now appropriated to the Princess Ma- 
thilde. They consist of four rooms, in one of which Louis XIV. 
accepted the offer of the Spanish crown for his grandson from 
the Spanish Deputies in 1700, an event which led to the War 
of the Succession. Here also he signed the revocation of the 
Edict of Nantes. The furniture is of the time. 

Grossing the Salle de Henri //., a staircase descends to 
the ground-floor. The first place of note is the Chapelle 
de St. Saturnin, originally built by Louis VII., and 
consecrated by Thomas a Beckct, in 1109, during his 
absence from England on account of his contest with 
Henry II. It was restored and ornamented by Francis I., 
again by Louis XIII., and finally by Louis Philippe, whose 
talented daughter, the late Princess Mary, designed the subjects 
for the stained glass. It is further remarkable as containing 
the altar at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass in the cha¬ 
teau during the eighteen months of his detention, 1812-14. 
The vast saloon next this chapel is the Galerie des Colonnes , 
corresponding in dimensions with the Galerie de Henri II. 
above. It served as the waiting-room on levee days; at other 
times as the private royal dining-room. Here the Duchess of 
Orleans was married in 1837, according to the rites of the Pro¬ 
testant church. The Duchess of Kent dined here with Louis 
Philippe in 1842. The doors are richly decorated. 

Here we leave the palace by the Porte Doree, facing the 
Avenue Maintenon and leading to the Cour Ooale; it was built 
by Francis I. in 1528, and adorned with 8 frescos by Niccolo„ 
designed by Primaticcio, restored by Picot in 1835, viz. Her¬ 
cules and Omphale, a Titan and Aurora, the Argonauts, Paris 
wounded, Diana and Endymion, and the Titans cast down from 
Heaven. By this passage Charles V. made his entry into the 
chateau in 1539; and through it fled the Duchess d’Etampes, 
on the death of Francis I., to avoid the vengeful wrath of Diana 
of Poitiers. The visitor should here ask to see the Vestibule 
de St. Louis, which is preceded by an antechamber adorned 
with old wood-carvings taken from the Galerie de Henri If., 
This apartment, in the oldest part of the chateau, was restored 
and decorated by Louis Philippe. It contains statues of 









5i 6 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

St. Louis, Philip Augustus, Francis I., and Henry IV., all of 
whom built or adorned portions of the chateau. The groined 
vault is painted and gilt, with tleurs de lys on a blue ground. 
Here the visitor will recognize the Escalier St. Louis , men¬ 
tioned above (see p. 51 i.) 

The Porte Dorde is one of the entrances to the Cour Ovale, 
measuring 77 metres by 38; it has a colonnade all round, 
closing with a remnant of a pavilion and turret, said lo have 
been inhabited by St. Louis. This court communicates with 
the Cour de Henri IV. by the Porte Dauphine, a gate of 
curious design, flanked with busts, and surmounted by a 
square gilt cupola, adorned with figures of Fame. Under this 
cupola Louis XIII. was christened. 

Some of the parts of this palace here described can only be 
visited with a ticket, to be obtained from M. le Grand Mare- 
chat da Palais, aux Tuileries - These are : the Galerie de 
Diane , the Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, and the 
Emperor’s apartments. The Petits Appartements, comprising 
the room where Monaldeschi was killed, being now under 
repaid are not visible even with a ticket (1), no more than the 

Sa/lc du Spectacle , in the Aile Neuve. The stage is small, 
and the house has two galleries, the lower ore reserved for the 
court, the upper for visitors; the pit is for the officers of the 
household. The Salon de t’Empcreur is octagonal, andquilled 
throughout; the two adjoining rooms are reserved for the 
Emperor’s suite. A fee is given to the guide. 

The Park and Gardens. —The Jardin Anglais, or, as it is 
more rightly termed, Pittoresque, extends along the front of 
the chateau, from the Aile Neuve, or de Louis XV., which 
forms one of the sides of the Courdu Cheval Blanc. From the 
varieties of surface presented by the ground, the sinuosities of 
the river, and other advantages, the hand of art, even while 
hiding itself, has contrived to make a wild little paradise of 
this beautiful spot. The Parterre, laid out by Le Notre, is in 
the old-fashioned style of gardening, and has a square piece of 
water. Another garden, the Jardin particulier, faces the im¬ 
perial apartments. L’Etang, or great pond, facing the Cour 

(V The Princess Clementine, now Duchess of SaxeCoburg- 
Gotha, had an apartment here, of great beauty, formerly occu¬ 
pied by the Empress Maria Louisa. Napoleon I. himself also oc¬ 
cupied an apartment here, and had a private staircase leading to 
a library above. These were the apartments of Louis Philippe’s 
sister, Madame Adelaide. Among the reserved apartments were 
those de l'Aile Neuve, formerly occupied by Napoleon’s sister, the 
Princess Borghese, and aftei wards by the Duchess de Nemours. 
Underneath is a suite of seven vooms, once occupied by Madame 
Letitku mother of Napoleon. 


FONTAINEBLEAU. ' 517 

de la Fontaine, is a fine piece of water, of a triangular shape, 
about 1000 feet long on two of its sides, and 700 feet on the 
other; it is entirely lined with sandstone, and contains a vast 
number of enormous carps, many of them of great age. A 
diversion peculiar to the place consists in throwing very hard 
rolls (sold by poor women on the spot) into the pond, and 
watching the eager and unsuccessful attacks of the carp upon 
them. In the middle is a handsome octagonal pavilion, vul¬ 
garly called the Cabinet da Roi, originally constructed there 
by Francis I. The park, east of the garden, is large and beau¬ 
tiful ; it is traversed in its whole extent by a magnificent canal, 
4000 feet long and 130 broad, which is fed by springs and the 
waste water from the basins in the garden. North of this, 
and skirting the Park, we find the Treille du Roi , a fine 
row of vines covering a wall nearly a mile long, and 
bearing grapes of a superior quality, called chasselas de 
Fontainebleau, though most of those sold under that 
i name are grown at Thomery, on the banks of the Seine, 
four miles east of Fontainebleau ; the better sorts were intro¬ 
duced here by Francis I. This village is worthy of a visit, 
both for the vineyards in the season, and its curious old 
church built in 854. The only buildings in the park are the 
house of the chief gardener, and the stables, formerly the He- 
; ronnieres, from the falcons kept there for flyingat the heron, fkc. 

The Forest of Fontainebleau is sixty-three miles in cir¬ 
cuit, and contains 42,000 acres. Perhaps no forest presents 
such a variety of picturesque views; rocks, ravines, valleys, 
plains,—all are found here ; the woods abound in every variety 
of tree; the meadows, lawns, and cliffs, present every species 
of plant and flower. The finest point of view in the whole 
forest is from the Fort de VEmpereur, a belvedere, about a 
mile from the town, from which an extent of nearly forty 
miles is discovered in almost every direction. By the aid of 
good telescopes, always to be found on the spot in fair 
weather, the Pantheon of Paris is distinctly visible from it. 
After this, the best views are to be had from the sites called 
platieres, to be met with at intervals; but the localities 
best worth a visit are perhaps the following, in the order 
usually taken by the guides;—1, Mont Ussy, and the Nid de 
I’Aigle; 2, the valley of La Solle, and Rocher des Deux Soeurs, 
hard by which is the curious Rock of St. Germain, where the 
stones are nearly all crystallized ; 3, la Gorge et Vallon d’Apre- 
mont, containing some of the most picturesque scenery in tho 
forest, some very fine old trees, and the Caverne des Brigands, 
dug out about a century ago by a robber named Thissier and 
his band, who were the terror of the environs ; 4, the HermU 






518 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

tage of Franchard, about 4 miles west of Fontainebleau, buried 
midst rocks and sands, in a spot having the aspect of a desert, 
although once the site of a famous and flourishing monastery 
founded by Philippe Auguste. Here is the celebrated dripping 
rock, la Roche qui pleure, which the vulgar once thought 
yielded water of sovereign virtue in the cure of diseases. Pil¬ 
grimages were made to it, and no doubt the “ holy friars ” gave 
no discouragement to the faith in the remedial powers of the 
tears ” of the “ Weeping Rock.” Its superstitious associations 
have long since vanished; the monastery was suppressed by 
Louis XIV., on account of the monks having from time to time 
been murdered by bands of robbers, and the place is now 
resorted to annually by the inhabitants of Fontainebleau and 
surrounding country, for the very secular purpose of holding 
a fair on Whit-Tuesday. 5. La Croix du Grand Veneur , 
marked by an obelisk at the point where four roads meet, 
receives its name from the legend of the spectral black hunts¬ 
man, who was supposed to haunt the forest; it is said he 
appeared to Henri IV. shortly before his assassination. There 
are also the splendid Promenade de la Reine, the Rocher 
d’Avon , near the route de Fontainebleau, the Gorge aux 
Loups, the Long Rocher, overlooking the village of Montigny, 
and the Mare aux Evees, a picturesque spot on the Melun 
road. Those whose time is extremely limited, may still 
enjoy a charming two hours’ walk or drive, by following what 
is called the Promenade au Chemin de Fer, extending from 
the Barriere de Melun to the railway station, and comprising 
the Mont Calvaire (which offers a beautiful view of Fontaine¬ 
bleau and the forest), the Rocher des Marsouins, the Rocher 
au Puitsdes Ecureuils , th e Roche de Leviathan and du Liable, 
the Grotte de Georgine, and part of the Promenade de la 
Reine; all which points offer the most striking views ima¬ 
ginable. It formerly abounded in stags, deer, &c., but these 
were almost exterminated at the revolution of 1830; never¬ 
theless it still is a favourite rendezvous for hunting. In the 
spring and autumn it is much frequented by artists, as it 
abounds in beautiful landscape studies. No forest in France 
possesses finer trees, or a greater variety of indigenous plants. 
It is so intersected with roads radiating in all directions, that 
a guide or a map is indispensable; the best are those of M. 
Denecourt, a public-spirited gentleman, who has caused blue 
arrows to be painted upon conspicuous trees in the most fre¬ 
quented places, in order to guide the tourist on his way (1). 

Races take place at Fontainebleau during the stay of the 
Court at the palace, a circumstance which renders them par¬ 
ticularly brilliant and animated. The course is picturesquely 


MALMAISON. 519 

situated in the Vallee de la Solle, a vast amphitheatre sur¬ 
rounded by the Rochcr St. Germain and the thickly-wooded 
heights of Cassepot, Chauvet, and La Solle. 

GAILLARDON—a small town on the Chartres railway line. 
It possesses a curious church, a medley of various styles, hut 
containing a beautiful choir; its most interesting relic is 
the fantastically shaped ruin of a tower, called L’Epaule de 
Gaillardon, built in the lltli century by GeofTroy, Vicomle 
de Chateaudun, and dismantled by Dunois when he recovered 
it from the English under Talbot in 1442 . 

ISSY—This village, situated beyond Vaugirard, possesses 
two important charitable establishments well worth visit¬ 
ing : the Hospice des Menages (seep. 118) and the Hospice 
Devillas (see p. 119). The former occupies a new and ele¬ 
gant building, furnished and provided with comforts in a 
style perhaps too splendid for the purpose. It will accommo¬ 
date 1,746 persons. The Hospice Devillas adjoining can re¬ 
ceive 80 persons, and is more comfortable. 

MAINTENON—a small town near the Chartres railway 
line, remarkable for an old and picturesque castle, the seat 
of the Due de Noailles, who has lately done much to beautify 
it. It was bought in 1674 by Madame de Maintenon, and 
was often visited by Louis XIV., who built the left wing, the 
opposite one being constructed by Madame de Maintenon. Ra¬ 
cine, at her request, wrote his two tragedies of Esther and 
Athalie here, and one of the avenues of the park still bears 
his name. Charles X. passed the night after his abdication 
here, on his way from Rambouillet (see p. 625) to the coast. 
The park, laid out by Jean Cottereau and Le Notre, is magni¬ 
ficent. It contains the ruins of an aqueduct commenced by 
Louis XIV., in order to carry the waters of the Eure to the 
gardens of Versailles, but never completed. 

MAISONS-LAFFITTE — 4 leagues from Paris, on the Rouen 
railroad, situated on the Seine, w ith picturesque views. Before 
the revolution of 17 89, the chateau, a chef d’oeuvre of Mansard, 
belonged to the Comte d’Artois. Napoleon gave it to the 
Duke de Montebello. It afterw ards belonged to M. Laffitte, 
and now toM. Thomas. Voltaire w r rote his “ Zaire” here, and 
w r as nearly carried off by the small-pox. 

MALMAISON—3 leagues west of Paris, near the Paris and 
St. Germain railroad, w r as the favourite residence of Napoleon 
and the Empress Josephine. The latter died here on the 29th 
May 1814, and w r as buried in the small and ancient church of 

(1) Fontainebleau possesses a valuable kind of sand for making 
glass. An English company has the exclusive privilege of digging 
and shipping it off to England. 


520 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

Rueil (see p. 529). The chateau was bought several years 
ago by Queen Christina of Spain, from whom it was purchased 
in 1801 by Napoleon III. A small pavilion to the left, almost 
surrounded by lime trees, was the private cabinet ot the Em¬ 
peror, where he meditated and planned some ol his greatest 
campaigns, it contains two paintings by Gaiiot, representing 
the signing of the Concordat, and the burning of the bridge of 
Chatou by order of Napoleon 1. 

MARLY—4 leagues west of Paris, was celebrated for its cha¬ 
teau and gardens, erected by Louis XIV., and destroyed during 
the revolution of 17 89. The small village on the banks of the 
Seine, called Port de Marly, was celebrated for a curious en¬ 
gine, invented by a carpenter, by which water was raised by 
means of two rows of pipes, up to the brow of the hill over¬ 
looking the place, to the aqueduct at the top, 300 feet above 
the Seine. A model of this engine may be seen at the Conserva¬ 
toire des Arts et Metiers. This engine was taken down in 
1857, and a new one, constructed on the same plan consider¬ 
ably improved by the engineer, M. Dufrayer, has now been 
built on the same spot. It consists of six pair of powerful 
undershot wheels, each of 200 horse-power, and working four 
pumps. The aggregate quantity of water supplied is 25,000 
cubic metres per day, raised to a height of 1GG metres. The 
aqueduct, 70 feet high, carries the water raised by the engine 
to Versailles and other places. The view from the aqueduct 
is very fine. The pavilion on the brow of the hill, called 
Maisons, was built for the celebrated Mme. Dubarry. 

MEUDON—2 leagues south-west of Paris, is remarkable for 
the chateau and park, situated on an eminence overlooking 
the village, and commanding an extensive and beautiful pros¬ 
pect. There were formerly two chateaux here; one of which 
stood in advance of the present one on the great terrace. 
Louis XIV. purchased this villa of the widow of the Marquis 
de Louvois. During the revolution of 17 89, it was used 
for artillery experiments. In 1795, one of the chateaux 
being nearly destroyed by a fire, Bonaparte ordered it to be 
taken down, the gardens to be replanted, and the smaller one 
to be repaired. In 1814, Louis XVIII. annexed Meudon to the 
domains of the crown; it was afterwards used by the Due de 
Bordeaux, and in 1831 was furnished throughout for the Duke 
of Orleans, and is now thesummer residence of Prince Napoleon 
and his family. The approach is through a wide avenue, 
at the end of which is a magnificent terrace 450 yards 
in length, and 180 in breadth, erected in 1GG0, by Henri de 
Guise. The palace consists of a central pedimented pile with 
two wings of the same height, flanked with pavilions. The 



MEUDON. 521 

keystones of the windows and portals bear sculptured masks, 
bouquets, &c. A Doric vestibule, adorned with statues, the 
most conspicuous of which is Ulysses, by Debarre, sen., 
gives access to a staircase, the walls of which are decorated 
with various pictures, among which are Hercules taking Cer¬ 
berus from Hell, by Lenoir; and Mercury lulling Argus to 
Sleep, by Regnier. The apartments of the Empress Josephine, 
afterwards inhabited by the late King and Queen, contain 
several beautiful paintings. The furniture of one of the rooms 
is covered with Beauvais tapestry, representing various fables 
of La Fontaine. In the gallery which terminates this suite is a 
collection of gouaches by Joubert, illustrating the Creation and 
Fall of Man ; there is besides a copy in bronze of the Boy with 
the Butterfly, by Chodet; the bust of the present Emperor, 
by Barre ; and that of the Empress, by M. de Nieuwekerke. 
The apartments formerly occupied by Napoleon I., and after¬ 
wards by the Duke of Orleans, are entered by the same gal¬ 
lery, and contain many superb paintings, among which the 
Death of Lesueur, by Yignard. In the Salon deFamillc the 
doors are painted by Boucher; there are also two paintings 
by Coypel, representing subjects taken from the tragedies cf 
Corneille. In the Sa le a manger, now a billiard-room, is 
a splendid marble statue by ltuxtheil, representing Pan¬ 
dora. The furniture is very handsome ; Lyons silk and Gobe¬ 
lins tapestrj form the principal decoration. From the windows 
of the chateau, or the terrace, splendid views of Paris are to 
be enjoyed; the finest is that of the valley of the Seine, with 
Paris in the distance. The gardens were laid out by Le Notre. 
The wood of Meudon is extensive, and much frequented in the 
summer by the Parisians. Meudon was renowned for the stud 
formed here by the Duke of Grammont, under the reign of 
Charles X. It was afterwards the property of Louis Philippe, 
but was sold in 1848. At present anew one has been formed. 
The studhouses, paddocks, See., lie at the upper end of the 
village. Horses bred here used to be sent to Chantilly to be 
trained. On the terrace above-mentioned, to the left on en¬ 
tering, there are four immense stones (besides smaller ones) 
discovered in the avenue in 1847, bearing undoubted marks of 
Druidical origin. On one of them the outline of a horse’s head 
is roughly sculptured, and still discernible. They have now 
been grouped in an upward position, somewhat in the form of 
a rude pyramid. Rabelais was the rector of the village of 
Meudon. Since the death of Prince Jerome, the palace has 
been closed to the public.—The Versailles railroad (left bank) 
passes just at the extremity of the avenue, which is close to 
the Bellevue station. 





522 ENVIRONS OF PARIS 

MONT VAUERIEN (also called Mont Calvaire). — This hill, 
a conical isolated mount, about two leagues from Paris, is 
558 French feet above the Seine. It derives its latter name 
from a chapel consecrated there in 1633. But many centuries 
before it was a favourite place of worship, successively fre¬ 
quented by the Druids and other pagan priests, and the first 
Christians of France. From that time it was respected as a 
place of religious devotion ; several hermits inhabited its ca¬ 
verns, and pilgrimages used to be made to it. At the revolution 
of 17 89 the custom ceased; but at the Restoration pilgrimages 
again came into vogue, and a fraternity of Trappists settled 
there. At the revolution of 1830, the hill and its dependencies 
were finally withdrawn from the influence of the church, and 
the summit is now crowned by one of the strongest forts 
connected with the defences of Paris, which cost 4,500,000 fr. 
In a cemetery on the eastern side, Mme. de Genlis was buried. 

MONTMARTRE—(See p. 448.) 

MONTMORENCY—a small town, 4 leagues north of Paris, 
on the Northern Railroad, delightfully situated on a hill, op¬ 
posite Enghien (see p. 507), and commanding a fine view of 
the picturesque valley of Montmorency. The house called the 
Hermitage was inhabited by J.-J. Rousseau from 17 56 to 
17 58. Here he composed his Nouvelle Heloise. llis furniture 
is still shown here. This house afterwards became the pro¬ 
perty of the composer Gretry, who died there in 1813; but 
has since been much altered and spoiled. The church is a 
beautiful building of the 15th century. The forest of Montmo¬ 
rency is extensive and highly picturesque. Horses and asses 
are to be hired in the market-place, at moderate prices, and 
balls, much frequented by the Parisians, are given herein sum¬ 
mer on Sundays. The country round is celebrated for its cherries. 

MORTEFONTAINE—9 leagues north-east of Paris, derives 
its name from M. Le Pelletier de Mortefontaine, who built a 
chateau there in 1770. It subsequently became the property 
and favourite residence of Joseph Bonaparte, and afterwards 
belonged to the Prince de Conde. Mortefontaine abounds with 
rocks, trees, and water, grouped in most picturesque style, 
and, with its well-ornamented gardens, is worthy of a visit, 

NANTERRE. — A village, on the St. Germain railway, 2 
leagues west of Paris, was the birth-place of Ste.-Genevieve, 
patron saint of Paris, in the 5th century. A pilgrimage in ho¬ 
nour of that saint is held here every year, and the fete de la 
Jlosiere, at which the most virtuous young w oman of the vil¬ 
lage is crowned by the mayor with a w reath of roses, is an¬ 
nually celebrated on the 15th of May. Nautcrre contains an 
abattoir for hogs, and is celebrated for its sausages and cakes. 



NEUILLY. 523 

NEUILLY. —This village, delightfully situated at half a 
league from the Arc de l’fitoile, has acquired celebrity on 
account of its bridge, its elegant villas, and the interesting 
views which it commands. In 100G there was merely a ferry 
at this place, but Henry IV., with his queen, having been pre¬ 
cipitated into the water by their horses taking fright, a wooden 
bridge was constructed, which, however, did not last many 
years. The present one, built by Perronnet, is 7 50 feet long, 
and is composed of 5 arches, each 120 feet in span, and 30 
in height. The chief ornament of Neuilly, up to the revolu¬ 
tion of February, 1848, was the favourite summer residence 
of Louis Philippe. It contained a valuable library and a 
choice collection of pictures, as also many interesting memo¬ 
rials of the early life and strange vicissitudes of that monarch’s 
eventful career. The Queen’s dressing-cabinet was highly in¬ 
teresting, its only ornaments being the various prizes gained 
by the princes her children, from their first entrance into their 
colleges; these were all neatly framed, and, encircled with 
branches of laurel, formed the sole decorations of the walls. In 
the park there was a monument, marking the spot where, 
in July, 1830, a cannon-ball, fired from the Bois de Boulogne, 
fell at the feet of Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans; and on 
the same spot the crown of France was offered to him a few 
days subsequently, by a deputation. Near the spot where the 
palace stood there is a small circular building, in which the 
tomb of Diana of Poitiers formerly was, now removed to Dreux. 
The garden of the Comte de Paris, and an arbour are still vi¬ 
sible in the rue de Villiers ; it may be visited for a small fee 
on applying to the concierge, who also possesses a collection 
of articles once belonging to various members of the Royal 
family. On the 25th February, 1848, the mob broke into the 
palace, and committed acts of wanton devastation. (1) In 
virtue of the decrees of Jan. 22d, 1852, the grounds of Neuilly 
have been sold in lots, and they are now laid out in beautiful 
walks And avenues, skirted by charming villas. 

(!) The horrors of that night are hardly to be credited. The 
marauders penetrated info the cellars, containing immense 
quantities of wine, and this part of the edifice became the scene 
of frightful and fatal orgies ; for, the madness of intoxication 
being added to popular fury, a great number were drowned in 
a well in the cellars. The building was afterwards set fire to, 
and a great part of it destroyed, but by the exertions of some 
pupils of the Polytechnic School, aided by the well-disposed 
persons of the vicinity, the right wing, which used to be the resi¬ 
dence of Madame Adelaide, w as saved and still exists. In the ge¬ 
neral intoxication that prevailed, several of the mob, unable in 
their drunkenness to escape, perished miserably, suffocated by 


524 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

PASSY—(Seep. 189.) 

POISSY—at one of the extremities of the forest of St. Ger¬ 
main, on the Seine, six leagues west of the capital, is a very 
ancient town, where the kings of France had a palace at a re¬ 
mote period. St. Louis Louis IX.), who was born at Poissy, 
inhabited the chateau, built the bridge, and established the 
cattle-market, which has now been suppressed isee p. 450). 
Once a-year, on the Thursday but one before Shrove Tuesday, a 
grand meeting or fair takes place for the show of cattle and 
sheep, at which medals of encouragement and other prizes are 
given. (1) Philip le Hardi, son of Louis, erected at Poissy, 
in 1304, a handsome church in honour of his father, and in 
one of its chapels the font in which St. Louis is said to have 
been baptized is preserved. Poissy is famous for the confer¬ 
ences held between the Catholic and Protestant doctors in 1561. 
In this town is a Maison Centra le clc Detention , for persons 
condemned to confinement for any term of years. M. Meisson- 
nier, the celebrated painter, has a splendid villa here. 

PONT DE ST. MAUR—a village near Vincennes, so called 
from a bridge over the Marne which existed here in the 12th 
century. There is a curious tunnel here, 1,800 feet in length 
by 30 width and height, cut through the rock for shortening 
the navigation of the Marne. 

PRE ST. GERVAIS—outside the fortifications, near Belle¬ 
ville, owes its name to a meadow ( pre ), and a chapel dedicated 
to St. Gervais. This spot is covered with small country- 
houses and guinguettes, and its situation and the proximity of 
the wood of Romainville is an inducement for the admirers of 
rural scenery to frequent it. 

RA1NCY—4 leagues from Paris, near Livry, is a chateau 
which formerly belonged to the Sanguins of Livry, but was 
ceded in 17 50 to the Duke of Orleans. In 17 89 it was purchased 
by M. Ouvrard, the banker, and afterwards fell into the hands 

the heat and smoke, thus completing the horrible catastrophe in 
the cellars; the number of these wretched victims has never 
been ascertained. Very few of the pictures or other articles of 
value were rescued. On the grounds stood a beautiful little pa¬ 
vilion, used by the young princes and their guests as a smoking- 
room, the walls of which were decorated with pipes of every 
description, some of them most curious and valuable. These 
were all carried off and the pavilion burnt to the ground. 

(l) In 1867 upwards of 3,ooo sheep, pigs, and oxen were 
brought to the cattle-show, besides a number of capons, fowls, 
and turkeys. The total sum of the prizes, varying from 300 to 
3,ooo fr., amounted to 48,650 fr. Three prizes of honour were 
given, consisting of silver cups of the value of 3,000 fr., 1,500 fr., 
and 800 fr., besides gold and silver medals. 




HAMBOUlLLfcfi 525 

of Napoleon; it returned to the Orleans family on the Restora¬ 
tion, but was included in 1852 in the decrees relating to the 
property of the Orleans family, and has now been sold in lots. 
The grounds were laid out in the English style, and the chateau 
was much improved by Louis Philippe. The chateau de Mont- 
fermeil, of the time of Louis XIII., was annexed to Rainey. 

RAMBOUILLET is a small town in the department of the 
Seine et Oise, 1 1 leagues south-west of Paris, on the Chartres 
railway. The town itself has nothing particular to recommend 
it, except two houses of Doric design in a by-street, to the 
left on proceeding up the rue imperiale, which were the wings 
of a palace built for the King of Rome. There is also the 
Mairie, a building of good though modest design, built by 
Napoleon I. in 1809, and situated on the Place d’Armes. The 
Gothic church, which forms another side of this square, is 
remarkable for its evident antiquity, being of the style 
prevalent in the eleventh century. It. contains a picture 
by Vanloo, the Vision of St. Hubert. In an adjoining 
by-street is a large building 240 yards in length, now 
used for barracks. But its chief attraction lies in the chateau 
and park, formerly belonging to the Counts of Toulouse, and 
situated opposite to the Mairie. It is a large structure of 
brick, flanked with three towers with peaked roofs, and a 
larger one of stone, crowned with battlements, evidently of 
an earlier date than the rest. Francis I. died here, and the 
chamber is still shown where he was wont to hold his levees. 
Adjoining are rooms once inhabited by Diane de Poitiers. 
The Duke de Guise visited the chateau several times; Cathe¬ 
rine de Medicis and Charles IX. took refuge in it during the 
battle of Dreux. It was also inhabited by Rabelais, Talle- 
mand des Reaux, and Voiture. Madame de Maintenon lived 
here with Louis XIV., who held his court in this chateau for 
several years. It was neglected by Louis XV., but Louis XVI. 
and Marie Antoinette often chose it for their residence. 
Napoleon slept here for the last time previous to his taking 
refuge at Rochefort. Charles X. visited it frequently for 
hunting ; it was here he signed his abdication, Aug. 2d, 1830. 
It was then invaded by the Parisians, and the people returned 
to the capital in the carriages of the court. During the revo¬ 
lution of 1848 the palace was let to a speculator for public 
balls, but since 1 852 it has returned to the Civil List, and been 
considerably improved. There is a ferruginous spring in 
the vicinity. 

The Palace —is composed of two wings, at right angles to 
each other, and having at each corner an engaged circular 
turret surmounted by a spire, besides a massive round tower 


526 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

crowned with battlements, a remnant of the ancient fortified 
castle which stood here in the 14th century. A balcony runs 
all round the first story on the garden side. On entering the 
palace from the court, we are ushered into the Salon de Re¬ 
ception, a fine room, overlooking a flower garden which bor¬ 
ders on a sheet of water branching out into the park in three 
directions. From this spot we see the Pavilion des Roches , 
a small summer-house on an islet of that name, where a 
grotto exists called la Marmitede Rabelais, because frequented 
by that great satirist. It was a favourite retreat of Napoleon I., 
and has been thoroughly repaired. The next room to the 
left is that in which Charles X. signed his abdication in 
1830 ; adjoining is his bed-room. These three rooms are bare 
of furniture. Returning to the Salon, a door opposite leads 
by a few steps to the dining-room, entirely wainscoted with 
finely carved oak. Here a door gives access to a small chapel 
situated in one of the turrets ; although in a dilapidated con¬ 
dition, its walls still display the emblems of Louis XVI. Next 
follows the Salle de Billard, now bereft of its billiard-table. 
On the wall facing the windows we see a large map of the 
Arrondissement of Rambouillet, in the proportion of 1 to 
7200 ; it was partly executed by Louis XVI. Next follows 
a Salon, the only apartment possessing some elegant Beauvais 
furniture ; then a Salon d' Attente, and two other rooms, one 
formerly the library, and the other the study, of Napoleon I. 
It was in this room the annexation of Holland to France was 
decreed in 1810. All these rooms are remarkable for the 
beautiful oak carving which covers the walls, and would alone 
warrant a visit to this palace. Most of the cast-iron plates of 
the fire-places display the arms of the Counts of Toulouse— 
three flcurs de lys separated by a bar. We next come to 
the Salle de Bain, a room painted with arabesques and 
views of Rome, the Tuileries, etc., in medallions. Among 
them there is one representing the palace, mentioned above, 
built for the King of Rome. The unsuccessful attempts of the 
Bourbons to efface the emblems of the Napoleonic dynasty 
are here exemplified by the flcurs de lys added to the Imperial 
crown painted on the panels. Adjoining this is Napoleon the 
First’s bedroom. Marie Louise slept here for the last time on 
the night previous to her departure for Vienna in 1814. In 
the next room there is a fine screen of Gobelins tapestry of 
Louis XVI/s time. Proceeding to the upper story, we enter 
three apartments, once inhabited by Queen Hortense ; the 
furniture here, dating from the empire, is of beautiful ash- 
wood. A winding staircase now leads to the uppermost story, 
where we find the room in which Francis I. died \ it is situ- 


RAMBOUILLET. 527 

atecl in the large round tower. The low ceiling, and the di¬ 
lapidated condition in which it is, give it more the appearance 
of a garret than a regal apartment. From its window we 
perceive the flat surface of a grove or quinconce of C70 lime- 
trees cropped in the old French fashion; it is a remarkable 
specimen of that style. Descending to another part of the 
second story, we enter a suite once inhabited by theDuchesse 
de Berri, and another occupied by the Duehesse d Angouleme, 
who slept here for the last time on the 29th of July, 1830. 
Adjoining is the Galerie, now bare, but once filled with the 
collection of pictures belonging to the Due de Penthievre, the 
brother of Louis Philippe’s greatgrandmother. Descending to 
the ground-floor, we pass through a series of rooms contain¬ 
ing the kitchens, the Salle des Gardes, etc., and a small room 
entirely covered with Dutch tiles of Louis XIV. s time, with 
views of Dutch scenery in blue on a white ground. Some of 
those which cover the floor date as far back as Francis the 
First’s time. Returning, we enter the Salle de Mars, a large 
hall, with its walls entirely incrusted with grey and red 
marble; it was the great dining-hall of the court. The walls 
are here upwards of seven feet in thickness. The total number 
of apartments in the palace is 71, with 69 chimney pieces, 
most of which are remarkable for their costly marble and 
fine sculpture. 

The Park and Gardens. —Of the 35,000 acres which 
compose the park and adjoining forest, upwards of 30 are 
covered by the canals, ponds, and rivulets which intersect it 
in every direction, and are stocked with the finest carp. It 
possesses splendid avenues, one of which is remarkable for a 
curious kind of tree, the taxodium (or cypress) of Louisiana. 
Some of its seeds having been brought over in Louis XIII.’s 
time, and carelessly thrown on a heap of rubbish, germinated, 
and at length attracted the attention of the gardeners by the 
curious shape of the leaves. They were then taken care of, and 
have now risen to an enormous size, averaging 120 feet. The 
gardens adjoining the palace were laid out by Lenotre. 

On leaving the chateau, a road leads to the Laiterie 
de la Reine, a Doric pavilion built by Marie Antoi¬ 
nette, and situated about half a mile from the palace. 
It contains two rooms, the first of which is circular, sur¬ 
mounted by a cupola; around the walls are slabs of 
white marble resting upon elegant consoles, where basins 
of fresh milk were placed for the Queen and her suite. 
In the middle of this room is a magnificent round table of 
white marble, with a mosaic of coloured marble in the centre. 
The adjoining room is rectangular, the back ground being 


528 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

occupied by an artificial grotto, with rocks forming a rustic 
basin, in the centre of which is a beautiful marble statue of 
Venus entering the bath, executed by Bcauvallet in 1811. There 
is a reservoir for water on the roof of the building, which it takes 
two men to fill, when occasion requires, by the aid of pumps. 
The water is then let into the grotto, and falls over theshoulders 
of the Venus, while at the same time four jets d'eciu issue 
from the pavement. The floors of both these rooms are of 
polished marble, white and red, and the general effect is 
beautiful. The bas-reliefs which formerly adorned the walls 
of the Laiterie are now at La Malmaison (see p. 519). The 
domestic that shows this will also conduct the visitor to a pa¬ 
vilion close by, called the Pavilion desQuatre Saisons, from 
four excellent grisailles by Sauvage, representing the sea¬ 
sons, and which adorn the walls of the principal chamber, 
which is circular. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette used to 
breakfast here in the summer season. Napoleon I. also used 
to visit this place very frequently. The stranger should 
next visit Le * Coquillages, a small rustic lodge a short way 
off in the park. The roof is thatched and the outer walls, of 
rough stone, contrast strangely with the tasteful little circular 
parlour contained within, adorned with eight Ionic pilasters, 
niches, garlands, an ornamented cupola and a fire-place—all 
formed of different s' ells, large and small, and bits of broken 
bottles, very ingeniously arranged so as to produce a most 
pleasing effect. Adjoining is a small room, or rather closet, 
where Napoleon I. used to partake of a frugal breakfast, cooked 
in a little kitchen a few steps off. Close to this spot, under 
some trees, is a large stone on which he was often seen to 
spread out his plans and maps when projecting a campaign. 
The forest adjoining contains upwards of 30,000 acres, and 
measures 50 leagues in perimeter. 

The Farm. —A few minutes’ walk along the road to the 
right of the Laiterie leads to the Emperor s farm, graced 
with the following motto over the gate from Virgil s Eclogues: 

“Curat ovcs, ovumque magistros.” 

The land pertaining to this farm is about 400 hectares. Op¬ 
posite are the Bergeries, founded in 17 85 by Louis XVI. on 
the recommendation of M. d Angevilliers. Several new build¬ 
ings have since been added to them, and they now contain 
about 7 00 merino sheep, remarkable for their fleeces. Each 
full grown animal yields from 3 to 5 kilogrammes of wool. 
Skirting the same road by which we came is the Emperor's 

Fuisanderie, where pheasants and hares are reared for the 
Imperial chase. The ground is about 12 hectares in extent, 
and is worthy of a visit. There are about 1,300 pheasants here* 


ST. CLOUD. 529 

The last railway station before arriving at Rambouillet is 
Lartoire, where there are the Elangs dt St. Hubert. Here 
Madame Dubarry had a small chateau called St. Ilubert-le- 
Roi, and adorned with sculpture by Pigalle. It was utterly 
destroyed during the revolution, and only its foundations now 
exist, lo visit the Palace of Rambouillet and its dependencies, 
apply to M. le Ministre de la Maison de VEmpereur. 

ROMAINVILLE—a village, two miles from Paris, affords 
one of the finest views in the environs. The wood is not exten¬ 
sive, but its proximity to the capital makes it much frequented. 

RUEIL.—This town is situated at the distance of three leagues 
and a half from Paris, and about half a mile from the St. 
Germain railroad. It possesses a church, remarkable both for 
its Saxon architecture and the monuments it contains. The 
steeple and transepts were reconstructed in 1857, but the rest 
of the church dates from 1003. The interior consists of a nave 
and two aisles; in the choir, fronting the nave, stands a monu¬ 
ment to Count Tascher de la Pagerie, consisting of a sarco¬ 
phagus of white marble; but the chief objects of interest are the 
monuments lo the Empress Josephine and Queen Hortense, occu¬ 
pying the lateral chapels of the choir. The first, in the right - 
hand aisle, executed in white marble by Cartellier, consists 
of an arch surmounted by raking cornices, and supported by 
four Ionic columns resting on a basement; the Empress is re¬ 
presented kneeling on a cushion in the act of prayer. The base¬ 
ment bears the initials J.B., and the inscription : A Josephine, 
Eugene et Hortense , 1825. In the opposite aisle stands a 
nearly similar monument to Queen Hortense, erected by the 
present Emperor, instead of another which he had caused to 
be executed during his exile. The Queen is kneeling in sor¬ 
rowful meditation ; above is the Angel of Resignation, by 
Barre. The basement bears the inscription : A la Heine 
Hortense, son fils Napoleon III. From this chapel a flight 
of 22 steps descends into a vault underneath, where the mortal 
remains of the Queen are preserved in a sarcophagus, pro¬ 
fusely sculptured and gilt. It is surmounted by the arms 
of Holland, and an inscription records the dates of the Queen s 
birth and death. On the intrados of the arch above we see 
the monogram “ E. H.” (Eugenie Hortense.) The carved 
wood-work of the organ was brought hither from Florence, by 
order of the Emperor. It is the work of Baccio d’Agnolo, a 
contemporary of Michael Angelo. Funeral services are annually 
celebrated here to the memory of these princesses. 

SAINT CLOUD.—This small town, situated on the Seine, 
2 leagues west of Paris, was so called from St. Clodoald, grand¬ 
son of Clovis, who, having escaped when his brothers were 

24 




530 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

murdered by their uncle Clotaire, concealed himself here in a 
wood, and lived as a hermit. Being canonized after his death, 
the former name of the place, Novigentum, was altered to its 
present appellation. It was burnt by the English in 1358, and 
again by the party of the Armagnacs in 1411. It was at St. 
Cloud that Henry III. was assassinated by Jacques Clement, 
in 1589; Henrietta, the consort of Charles I., of England, died 
herein 1670; and here the coup d’etat of the 18th Brumaire 
(loth November, 1799), which placed Bonaparte at the head 
of the government of France, was effected. In 1815 the ca¬ 
pitulation of Paris was signed at this palace; and here also, in 
1830, Charles X. signed the famous decrees which caused the 
revolution of July, and received the first tidings of it. The 
town lies on the slope of a hill, and is, in summer, owing to the 
railroad and steamers (see page 3), a place of daily increasing 
resort. There are several fine villas on its outskirts, and it 
is one of the healthiest places in the vicinity of Paris. 

The Palace, which is now the usual summer residence 
of the present Emperor, was originally built in 1572, by 
Jerome de Gondy, a rich financier. After his death, it was 
possessed consecutively by four bishops of Paris, of the same 
family, and was renowned for the extent and beauty of its 
gardens. Louis XIV. purchased the chateau in 1658, and pre¬ 
sented it to his brother, the Duke of Orleans, who spared no 
expense in improving and adorning it. The repairs and 
additions were executed under the direction of Lepaute, Girard, 
and Mansard. Le Notre was charged to lay out the park, 
which is considered to be his chef-d’oeuvre. This magnificent 
seat of the Dukes of Orleans continued in their family till 17 82, 
when it was purchased by Louis XVI. for Marie Antoinette, 
who took great delight in St. Cloud, added several buildings, 
and often visited it, accompanied by the king. Napoleon 
always had a marked predilection for the chateau of St. Cloud, 
as being the theatre of his first elevation. It was in the 
Salle de I’Orangerie, now demolished, that the events of the 
18th Brumaire took place, and in this palace he transacted the 
affairs of the empire more frequently than at Paris. It consists 
of a court with three piles of buildings, and other wings 
irregularly connected with them. At the entrance of the 
court are two statues representing Commerce and Agriculture. 
The terrace commands a beautiful view. The principal front 
is 140 feet in length by 70 in height, and is nicely sculp¬ 
tured. The columns of the central compartment are Corin¬ 
thian. Annexed to the palace are large barracks, stables, &c. 
Sixty horses are always kept here for the Court. The saddle- 
horses are English, and those for carriages chiefly Norman. 



ST. CLOUD. 631 

Interior. —On entering the Grand Vestibule, from the Cour 
d’Honneur, the visitor will perceive, right and left, two re¬ 
cumbent marble statues, Venus and Psyche, sleeping, by 
lluguenin; and, in front, Sappho, by Pradier, the last 
statue he executed before his death ; and Napoleon dying, 
by Vela, purchased at the Great Exhibition of 1867 
for 25,000 fr. lie will then ascend the Escalier d'Hon- 
neur, a magnificent marble staircase with Ionic pilasters, 
adorned with a large picture, by Muller, representing 
the reception of Queen Victoria at St. Cloud, by the 
Emperor in 1855. This painting is seen to the best ad¬ 
vantage from the top of the staircase; the most conspicuous 
figures are those of the Emperor and Empress, the Queen, 
Prince Albert, and Lord Clarendon. The ceiling of the upper 
vestibule, painted by Claude Audran, represents History 
writing the Life of Philip of Orleans. (1) It opens upon a 
road, over which is a bridge, called the Pont du Trocadero. 
A door to the right opens into the Salon dc Mars, com¬ 
municating with the Grands Appartements, and adorned 
with eight Ionic pilasters, and four monolith columns; the 
walls are sculptured with trophies, and the ceiling, by Mi- 
gnard, represents, in various compartments, Olympus, Mars, 
and Venus, the forges of Vulcan, Jealousy and Discord. 
Over the chimney-piece is the equestrian portrait of Napoleon I., 
by Gros, executed in the year XL In the centre of the room is 
a splendid divan, encircling a rich flowered chandelier, and 
supported by three genii of gilt bronze, with eagles. All the 
furniture is in red damask and Beauvais tapestry. Next comes 
the Galeric dApollon, a vast saloon (2). The ceiling, in Mignard’s 
best style, represents subjects of the mythology of Apollo ; his 
birth, that of Diana; Apollo, as God of Light, as chief of the 
Muses, the seasons, See. The walls, profusely gilt, are covered 
with a great number of excellent pictures, comprising numerous 
Canalettis, and paintings by Mignard, Van Oels, Van Spaen- 
donk, See., with several by modern French artists. Here is 
also an extensive collection of cabinets in tortoiseshell and in 
buhl, with fine specimens of Sevres porcelain, and several small 
pieces of statuary. At the further end of this gallery there 
is a marble statue of the Empress Josephine. Adjoining this 
is the Salon de Diane, richly painted by Mignard, with subjects 
relating to Diana. It contains several fine pictures, including 

(1) It was in this vestibule Henry III. was assassinated, August 
2, 1589 , by the fanatical Dominican monk, Clement. 

(2) Here Pius VII. baptized Prince Napoleon, eldest son of 
Prince Jerome, in 1805, and the civil marriage of Napoleon with 
Marie Louise was also celebrated here in 1 8 1 o. 




532 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

portraits of Henry IV., by Franque; Louis XIII., and Louis XIV, 
by Badin; the Regent Duke of Orleans, by Balthazar; and 
Louis Philippe Egaiite, by Boulanger. Next is the Chapelle , 
of Ionic and Doric design. The coves of the ceiling are 
painted in grisaille by Sauvage, in 12 compartments. The 
altar piece, a bas-relief in white marble, by Lesueur, repre¬ 
sents the Presentation in the Temple. Four balconies open 
into it from the Galerie d’Apollon. Returning to the Salon de 
Mars , a door to the left opens into a suite of rooms occupying 
the whole range of the principal front, and beginning with the 
Salon de Venus. The ceiling, by Lemoine, represents Juno 
borrowing Venus’s girdle; the walls are hung with beautiful 
specimens of Gobelins tapestry, (l) Opposite the windows we 
see two costly tables of Florence mosaic, with marble busts of 
Madame Letitia, and the father of Napoleon I. Next is the Sa¬ 
lon de Famille, or de Mincrve ; the ceiling, by Antoine Coypel, 
represents the Triumph of Truth; on the walls is continued 
the series of tapestry above alluded to. ( 2 ) Here are also 
busts of Napoleon I. and Prince Eugene Beauharnais. In an 
adjoining room to the right of this is the Library, a lofty hall 
with a skylight, and two tiers of galleries; it contains 12,000 
volumes. Returning to the Salon de Famille, the visitor is 
led to the Salon de Mercure, formerly the council-chamber 
under Napoleon, and now the billiard-room, with a bust 
of the first Napoleon on the mantelpiece. The billiard- 
table is richly inlaid with gilt arabesques and mother-of-pearl; 
the ceiling is by Allaux, and represents Mercury and Pandora; 
the walls are hung with tapestry like the former ones. (3) 
Valuable furniture in Beauvais tapestry adorns all these apart¬ 
ments. The Salon de I’Aurore, with a ceiling representing Au¬ 
rora, by Loir, and the walls adorned with sculptured tro¬ 
phies, closes this suite, communicating with the Esca- 
lier de Vhnperatrice, a staircase with a beautifully-wrought 
iron balustrade. The doors to the left give access to the Em- 

(1) Four of these are copies of the paintings executed by Rubens 
for Marie de Medicis, and represent: her Birth; Henry IV. re¬ 
ceiving her portrait; her Marriage with him at Florence, and her 
portrait as Bellona. The fifth represents the Duke of Anjou de¬ 
clared King of Spain (Philippe V.) 

( 2 ) The subjects are : the Marriage of Henry IV. with Marie de 
Medicis at Lyons, two months after the preceding one ; the Birth 
of Louis XIII. at Fontainebleau; Marie de Medicis invested by 
Henry IV. with the government of the kingdom, and her recon¬ 
ciliation with her son. 

(3) The subjects are: the Triumph of Truth; the Flight of Ma¬ 
rie de Medicis from Blois; her Journey to Ponls-de-C6 ; the Con¬ 
clusion of Peace; the Destiny of Marie de Mddicis. 



ST. CLOUD. 533 

peror and Empress’s private apartments ; they were formerly 
inhabited by the Duchesse de Berri, and subsequently by the 
Duchesse d’Orleans. Queen Victoria occupied them in August, 
1855. The first room of this suite is the dining-room, with 
elegantly sculptured sideboards, one of which figured in the 
Great Exhibition of 1855. Next follows the Salon de Vcrnet, 
decorated with eight paintings by Joseph Vernet. Here we 
see the Empress's bath-chair, a present from Queen Victoria, 
adorned with two pictures representing Summer and Winter. 
In one of the corners there is a beautiful table executed in 
Roman mosaic, representing various sub ects. Unstable was 
intended by Pius V11. as a present to Napoleon I., but was 
subsequently presented by Leo XII. to Charles X. We now 
enter the Empress’s bed-room, with the furniture and hangings 
of beautiful Lyons manufacture. Adjoining is the Salle de 
Bain, in gold and white ; the bath is concealed under a sofa. 
Next follows the Empress s reading-room, a beautiful apart¬ 
ment, profusely decorated with carvings in lime-wood and 
maple ; the ceiling, by Gallois, is adorned with Cupids and 
genii. From the windows of this and the adjoining rooms, 
which overlook the Parc reserve, we may perceive an avenue 
which occupies the site of the celebrated Salle de I’Oranr/erie. 
The Salon comes next; it has beautiful Beauvais furniture, 
and is decorated in gold and white, with medallions on the 
walls. The following rooms were occupied by Prince Albert. 
The first is the Emperor’s bed-room, with hangings and fur¬ 
niture of Lyons manufacture, and with the portraits of Hen¬ 
rietta of England and Anne of Austria. Next follows the 
Emperor’s study, adorned with full-length portraits of Marie 
Antoinette and her three children, the Princesse de Lamballe 
and Marie Leczinska, executed in Gobelins tapestry. The 
paintings over the door are by Boucher. The Emperor’s 
table is inlaid with bronze, and covered with red morocco. 
This suite was formerly inhabited by Marie Antoinette, and 
successively by Josephine, Marie Louise, and Louis Phi¬ 
lippe. (1) It communicates with the first vestibule men¬ 
tioned at p. 531). 

In the vestibule below is a fine marble statue of Minerva, by 
Vasse. The ground floor was occupied by Madame Adelaide, 

(i) He passed a few moments here in his flight from Paris, on 
February 24 th, i s48. These rooms contain several good paint¬ 
ings, such as the Arrest of Sir Thomas More, by Miss Collins; the 
Interior of a Chapel in the Eglise des Feuillanls of Paris, now 
destroyed, by Daguerre, and a view of the Park of the Chateau 
d'Eu, with Queen Victoria and Prince Albert enjoying a walk. The 
Lord Mayor of London was entertained here in 4851. 




534 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

sister of Louis Philippe, (l) and the second hy the Duke 
and Duchess of Nemours. 

The Parc Reserve begins at the chateau, and extends to the 
summit of the hill. U contains flower-gardens and plantations 
of trees, and is ornamented with pieces of water, and statues, 
by the most celebrated artists of the age of Louis XIV. The 
Emperor has stocked it with deer imported from England. 

The Grand Parc extends from the Seine and the road from 
Sevres to St. Cloud, to the back of the hill, and is about four 
leagues in circumference. The entrance is near the bridge; a 
wide avenue of chestnut-trees runs parallel to the river. To 
the right are plantations of chestnuts and limes, in the midst of 
which is the grand cascade. Beyond, separated from the park 
hy a fosse lined with masonry, and extending as far as Sevres, 
are some fine avenues of elms. The entrance from Sevres is 
between two Doric pavilions at the foot of the bridge. The 
park is beautifully diversified, presenting varieties of wood, 
water, level sward, and picturesque acclivities. Several points 
on the higher parts of the grounds command admirable glimpses 
of the surrounding scenery. ( 2 ) The cascade of St. Cloud, 
the joint work of Lepautre and Mansard, is divided into la 
Haute Cascade and la Basse Cascade ; at the summit of the first 
is a group, by Adam, representing the Seine and Marne, each 
reposing on the urn from which water issues. Upon an ele¬ 
vated flight of steps are placed urns and tablets, from which 
water falls into basins situated one under the other, the last sup¬ 
plying hy means of an aqueduct the lower cascade, which is 
separated from the upper hy the Alice da Tillet. The Basse 
Cascade nearly resembles a horse-shoe in form, and is remark¬ 
able for the abundance and rapid descent of its waters, which 
fall in sheets from one basin to another into a canal 2 G1 feet in 
length, hy 93 in its greatest breadth, along which are 12 jets 
d'eau. The architecture of the cascade is ornamented w ith 
rock and shell-work, dolphins, and other appropriate emblems, 
and nothing can he more beautiful than its effect when in full 
play. The grand jet d’eau, known hy the name of the Jet 
Geant, is to the left of the cascades, in front of a fine alley; it 
rises with immense force to the height of 140 feet from the 
centre of a basin, and throws up 5000 gallons per minute. By 
its side is a small stone fountain of remarkable elegance. The 
waters generally play every second Sunday in summer. (3) 

(1) Now inhabited by the Prince Imperial. 

( 2 ) We advise the visitor who comes from Paris to St. Cloud 
by railway (rive droite), to take his seat on the left side ot the 
carriage, by which he will occasionally obtain lovely prospects. 

(3) The day is announced beforehand in Galignani's Messenger. 


ST. CLOUD. 535 

One of the finest spots in the park is that on which is built 
the Lantern of Demosthenes, erroneously known by the name 
of Lantern of Diogenes. Count de Choiseul-Gouffier, during 
his residence in Greece, had casts taken of the pretty monu¬ 
ment at Athens bearing the former name, and covered with 
basso-relievos executed by Lysicrates. From these casts Na¬ 
poleon I. caused the monument now in the park to be con¬ 
structed. It is a tall square tower, crowned with a cupola, sup¬ 
ported by six Corinthian columns. From the summit a splendid 
view is obtained of Paris and its environs. The chateau is 
visible (when the Emperor does not inhabit it, which he onty 
does in summer) every day from 12 to 3, with a ticket to be 
obtained by writing to M. le General Rolin, aux Tuileries. 

A stone bridge of fourteen arches connects St. Cloud with 
the opposite bank, and the town of Boulogne, a place of above 
7,000 inhabitants, which gives its name to the well-known 
wood ( see p. 480). One of the arches is of cast-iron, and the 
footpaths rest on cast iron arches and consoles. 

The F£te of St. Cloud begins every year on the 7th of Sep¬ 
tember, and lasts three weeks. It is the most celebrated in the 
vicinity of Paris, and attracts immense crowds, particularly 
on Sundays. It is held in the park, and is well worth visiting. 

If the visitor be provided with a special ticket, he may 
claim the services of an attendant to accompany him through 
the Parc Reserve, when, after about an hour's walk, he will 
arrive at the pretty Chateau of 

Villeneuve VEtang, now belonging to the present Emperor, 
and formerly to the Duchesse d’Angouleme. It derives some 
interest from a weeping-willow, reared from a cutting of that 
which overhangs Napoleon’s tomb at St. Helena, having been 
planted here in 1853. It is 30 feet high, and 90 feet in cir¬ 
cumference round the branches. The cutting was brought to 
France by the Prince de Joinville in 1840, when the remains of 
the Emperor arrived in France. There is also a large ice-house 
here, besides a valuable breeding-stud. To visit Villeneuve 
FEtang, apply in writing to M. le Minisire de la Matson de 
VEmpereur. ‘ The village of the same name is hard by. 

Proceeding outside the park along the high road, on the 
plateau which overlooks St. Cloud, the stranger may enter 
the pretty park of Montretout, studded with villas. Further 
on, a road to the right leads to 

Fouilleuse, a farm belonging to the Emperor, containing 
about 250 acres, with various paddocks, in the English 
style. Small as it is, it has already cost upwards of 
a million of francs. The grounds to the right of the road form 
part of the domain of the Crown. 





536 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

Returning to the high road, we soon arrive at Garches, a small 
commune, remarkablefor the extensive buildingsof the Hospice 
de la Reconnaissance, founded by M. Brezin, for the reception 
of disabled workmen belonging to certain trades (see p. 1 23). 

Opposite this an avenue leads to La Marche, a village ce¬ 
lebrated for its race-course (see p. 4 83), and continuing 
along the avenue we arrive at Ville d’Avray, whence we may 
return by the Versailles railway (right bank) to Paris. 

ST. CYR—a village six leagues south-west of Paris, is cele¬ 
brated for the Maison de St. Cyr, founded by Louis XIV. in 
1686, at the solicitation of Mme. de Maintenon, for the edu¬ 
cation of 2 50 young noble ladies. On the death of the king, 
Mme. de Maintenon retired to it, and died there in 1719. The 
plans were furnished by J. H. Mansard. In 1793, this insti¬ 
tution was converted into a military hospil d, and in 1806, 
Napoleon ordered the military school of Fontainebleau to be 
transferred to St. Cyr, where it has since remained, under the 
title of Ecole speciale militaire de St. Cyr. The number of 
pupils is upwards of 300, who are admitted from the ages of 
17 to 20, after a severe examination. Pupils pay 1,500 fr. 
annually, besides an allowance for wardrobe and equipments. 
They stay two years, and leave with the rank of sub-lieu¬ 
tenants of infantry, cavalry, marines, or the staff. The 
uniform is distinguished from that of the infantry by a sky- 
blue collar. 

ST. DENIS—a town five miles north of Paris, on the Nor¬ 
thern railway-line, and containing about 9000 inhabitants. (1) 

History. —This town owes its celebrity to its ancient Bene¬ 
dictine Abbey, and to the circumstance of the kings of France 
having chosen the abbey-church for their place of burial. A 
chapel was founded here in honour of St. Denis about 250, in 
which Dagobert, son of Chilperic, was buried in 580, being the 
first prince known to have been interred within its walls. Da¬ 
gobert I. founded the abbey of St. Denis in 613; and Pepin, 
father of Charlemagne, commenced a new church, which was 
finished by his son, and consecrated in 77 5. Of this edifice 
nothing now remains except the foundations of the crypt. 
Suger, abbot of the monastery during the reign of Louis VII., 
demolished the church, and built a more majestic one in 1144, 
of which the porch and two towers remain; the rest of the 
building was reconstructed by St. Louis and bis successor, be¬ 
tween 1250 and 1281. In 1373, Charles V. built the first 

(1) Trains start from and to Paris every hour. Omnibuses, for 
which no extra charge is made, convey visitors to and from the 
Abbey. In the days of February, 1 848, a mob attacked the rail¬ 
road station, set tire to it, and tore up the rails for several miles. 


ST. DENIS. 537 

chapel on the right of the entrance, and now forming part of 
the C.'ceur d’Jliver (see p. 540), as a place of sepulture 
for himself and his family. The kings and princes of 
France were interred in this Abbey until 1789; the church 
and vault of the Bourbons were chosen by Napoleon 1. 
as a place of sepulture for the princes of his own dynasty, 
and by a decree of Jan. 18 59, it has again become the burial- 
place of the Emperors of the French. The oriflamme, in an¬ 
cient times the sacred banner of France, was kept at this abbey; 
and no church in the kingdom was so rich in relics and sacred 
ornaments. All these were dispersed at the revolution of 17 89, 
when one of the most remarkable acts of desecration took 
place ever recorded in history. On the motion of Barrere, 
the National Convention, on the 3tstof July, 1793, decreed 
that the tombs of the ci-devant kings at the Church of St. 
Denis, and elsewhere, should be demolished, and on the 
12th of October the work of destruction commenced. The 
first tomb opened was that of Turenne, whose body was found 
in such perfect preservation that it was exhibited for the space 
of eight months in the sacristy. At the suggestion of Prof. Des* 
fontaines, this tomb was afterwards removed to the Jardin des 
Plantes, and thence to the Mu see ties Monuments Francais (see 
p. 365.) On the 23rd of November, 17 99, it was, by order 
of the Consuls, removed to the Invaiides, then called the 
Tenifde de Mars. The first body extracted from the vault of 
the Bourbons was that of Henry IV. It was exhibited for two 
days, during which casts were taken of the face (see p. 404.) 
On the same day (the 14th of October) the remains of Louis 
XIII. and Louis XIV., of Marie de Medicis, Anne of Austria, 
Marie Therese, and Louis the Dauphin, son of Louis XIV., 
were disinterred. The body of Louis XIII. was in good pre¬ 
servation ; that of Louis XIV. was of the deepest black, and 
that of the Dauphin was in a state of liquid putrefaction. In 
the coffins of Charles V. and his queen, Jeanne de Bourbon, 
several articles of value were found in perfect preservation : 
crowns of gilt silver, a silver hand of justice, a sceptre, five 
feet long, of the same metal, bracelets, rings, and a distaff of 
gilt wood. The coffins of Charles VI. and Isabella of Bavaria, 
his consort, contained nothing but dry bones. In that of 
I Henry II. two hearts were found, but no inscriptions whereby 
to identify them. The body of Louis X., le Hutin, lay in a 
stone coffin lined with lead ; beside it lay a brass crown co¬ 
vered with rust, and part of a sceptre. The tomb of Dagobert 
was opened by torchlight. The bodies of this king and his 
queen Nanthilde lay together, enveloped in silk, in a wooden 
box lined with lead* and divided into two parts, with the w- 








538 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

scriptions— “Ilic jacct corpus Dagoberti“Hie jacet 
corpus Nanthildis.” The king's head was severed from the 
body; the head of the queen was missing. All the bodies 
were conveyed to the Cimetiere de Valois, opposite the northern 
porch, and thrown into two trenches dug for the purpose, and 
the lead of the coffins was used up for bullets. It was also 
seriously proposed to demolish the whole abbey, and this idea 
was very near being adopted. The lead, however, was torn 
from the roof for bullets, and the structure left exposed to all 
the inclemency of the weather until 1797, when it was again 
proposed to pull it down and form a market-place on its site. 
It was saved at the intercession of M. Petit-Radel, architect of 
the public edifices, hut it is only since the Consulate that the 
work of restoration has been in progress with little interrup¬ 
tion. Many of the monuments had fortunately been saved by 
being sent to the Musee des Monuments Fran^ais. 

Exterior. —The facade of this church, although at present 
mutilated by the demolition of one of its towers, effected se¬ 
veral years ago on account of its unsound state, is extremely 
imposing. The southern tower, which still remains, is square, 
and flanked at its corners with four turrets, crowned with a 
Gothic balustrade running all round its steep quadrangular 
roof. The tower has two rows of Saxon windows, the upper 
consisting of three, the lower of two. Its total height is 190 
feet (1). A crocketed gable and rose window are seen be¬ 
hind the battlements which crown the main body of the 
church, which is divided into three compartments by four 
turreted buttresses. The upper frieze of the northern com¬ 
partment is decorated with the figures of four kings of France, 
viz., Clodoveus, Dagobert, Pepin, and Charlemagne. Below 
this there are two obtusely-pointed windows resting on a 
second frieze enriched with sculpture, in nine compartments ; 
three windows more, one only of which is open, follow just 
above the northern entrance, formed by a series of retiring 
pointed arches resting on slender clustered pillars. Curious 
devices in haut-relief, representing the labours peculiar to 
each month, adorn the jambs of this entrance. The bas-relief 
in the tympan is a rude illustration of the surrender of Calais 
to the English in 1347, under Edward III. In the upper friezo 
of the southern division of the front, the series of kings is con¬ 
tinued with Hugh Capet, Robert, Louis le Gros, and Louis VII.; 
the remaining design is symmetrical with that already de¬ 
scribed. The devices on the jambs of the southern portal re- 

(1) It may be ascended for a small fee. From the top a splendid 
panorama, measuring upwards of 2oo kilometres in circuit, will 
be enjoyed. 


ST. DENIS. 539 

present the signs of the zodiac, and the bas-relief of the tympan 
represents the Martyrdom of St. Denis. The central division 
of the facade is pierced with a large rose window which now 
forms the dial plate of a clock. Below this there is a row 
of three windows, the central one only being open, the tym- 
pans of the others being filled with Latin inscriptions. That 
to the right, in Gothic characters, runs thus:— 

Ad decus Ecclesiae quae fovit c-t extulit ilium, 

Suggerus studuit ad decus Ecclesiae. 

Deque tuo tibi participans Martyr Dionysi 
Ora ut exores fore participem paradisi. 

Annus millenus centcnus quadragenus 
Annus erat Verbi quando sacrata fuit. (1) 

The opposite one, in modern characters, is as follows :— 

jEdem ul>i dena cinis Regum per ssecula quierat, 

Tempestate furens diruit una dies 
Scd dum Napoleo reparat res ordine cunctas, 

Reddit templa Deo, Regibus ct tumulo. 

Rursus pendet opus, nani concidit ipse ruina. 

At qui pcrficorct coepta. Philippus ernt. (2) 

The central portal below has four retiring arches, with 
figures of saints in haul-relief, and resting on sculptured clus¬ 
tered columns. In the tympan above we see the Last Judg¬ 
ment, Christ about to judge, and the Virgin interceding for 
sinners. The Saviour is represented in the act of pronouncing 
the words— 11 Venite Benedicti Patris mei,” and <£ Discedite 
a me Maledicti .” The gates are adorned with tracery and medal¬ 
lions in cast iron, containing the following bas-reliefs. Left side; 
1st, the Kiss of Judas; 2, Christ before Pilate; 3, Christ bear¬ 
ing bis cross; 4, the Crucifixion. Right side: 5, the Entomb¬ 
ment; 6, the Resurrection; 7, Christ and the two disciples at 
Emmaus; 8, the Ascension. 

Interior. —This magnificent and costly edifice is cruci¬ 
form, and consists of a nave and tuo aisles, with lateral 
chapels. Its total length is 355 feet, breadth 121 feet, and height 
of vaulting 85 feet. Both the nave and choir, with the tran¬ 
septs, have a light triforium and clerestory windows; 
the groinings spring from clustered capitals. In the aisle to 
the right on entering we find, after the door leading to the 
tower, the Chceur d Hiver , consisting of five chapels thrown 
into one, thus forming a kind of church by itself, lit by 

(1) “ In honour of (he Clxurch which fostered and raised him, Suger laboured 
to decorate (this) church. And thou, 0 Martyr St. Denis, who enjoyest Para¬ 
dise, pray that lie may enjoy it with thee. The thousand one hundred and 
fortieth year was the year of the Word in which it was consecrated.” 

(2) “ A single tempestuous day destroyed this church, where the ashes of 
Kings had reposed for ten centuries. Rut Napoleon, while re-establishing 
order in every branch of the State, restored this church to God, to the Kings, 
and the grave. The work was again suspended, for he himself fell j but it 
was Philip who completed what had been commenced,” 


540 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

five windows decorated with stained glass. The columns 
and walls are painted in the liveliest colours. Statues 
of the 12 apostles rest upon brackets against the columns. A 
railing separates the oaken scats from the rest of the chapel. 
Over the high altar is the martyrdom of St. Denis, painted by 
Krayer, a pupil of Rubens. The panel of the altar is adorned 
with painted and gilt haut-reliefs in compartments, represent¬ 
ing scenes from the life of Jesus Christ. In the embrasure of 
the second window is an altar in white marble with a statue 
of the Virgin and Child. The robes of the statue and the panels 
of the altar are interspersed with agates, cornelians, and other 
precious stones. The bas-relief on the lower panel represents 
the Purification, the Adoration of the Magi, the Massacre of the 
Innocents, and the Flight into Egypt; it is as usual painted in the 
Byzantine manner. Some old engravings of saints and abbots 
on stone are encased in the walls and between the win¬ 
dows. (1) There is one of colossal size on the wall opposite 
the high altar, to the memory of the Abbot Antoine De la 
Haye, who died in 1550. In the other aisle there arc five 
chapels painted by Lecomte in the Byzantine style. The 
ogives of the first contain : God, Christ, the Virgin, Moses 
receiving the law. In the walls are several old bas-reliefs. 
The altar-piece illustrates the history of Christ, carved in oak 
in nine compartments, and appears to be of the fifteenth cen¬ 
tury. The stained glass in the window represents the scenes 
of the Passion. In the second chapel paintings of Christ and 
Ste. Anne with the 4 evangelists occupy the ogives, and old 
bas-reliefs are encased in the walls. In the 3d, is the statue 
of St. Jerome over the altar, which is of white marble, 
and sculptured with 3 compartments in the upper panel, 
and one in the lower, in the style of the 14 th century. In the 
window is the history of St. Barbara in stained glass, dating 
from 1541, in 10 compartments. In the 4 th, the window is 
enriched with stained glass, representing the 4 Evangelists. 
The altar, which is of marble, has a Crucifixion in alto-relievo. 
The altar of the 5th chapel is remarkable for its gorgeous de¬ 
corations and gilt and painted haut-reliefs. On the upper panel 
are 11 medallions with delicate miniature paintings of sacred 
subjects. In the ogive opposite is the Crucifixion of Christ painted 
in fresco, and below, on an old stone slab encased in the wall, is 
engraved the plan of theabbey. To see the choir, the visitor must 
apply to the porter in the right aisle, for a guide. He will 
remark the magnificent circular windows that adorn the tran- 

(i) In 1 854, the King of Bavaria presented the Chapter of St. 
Denis with Ihe cast of their patron saint, taken from a statue o$ 
the loth century in the Church of St. Emmeran at Ratisbon. 









ST. DENIS. 541 

sept and then see, in the northern transept, the two magnifi¬ 
cent monuments of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany," and 
Henry II. and Catherine deMedicis. The former was executed 
in white marble by Paolo Poncio. The effigies of Louis XII. 
and bis queen are represented on a rectangular cenotaph sur¬ 
rounded by 12 arches supported by beautiful composite pilas¬ 
ters adorned with arabesques, beneath which are placed statues 
of the 12 apostles. The whole rests upon a pedestal enriched 
with bas-reliefs representing the wars of the French in Italy, the 
triumphant entry of Louis XII. into Genoa, the battle of Ra¬ 
venna, and the battle of Agnadel. Above the cornice are 
kneeling statues in white marble of Louis and Anne. In the 
wall opposite to this is an ancient alto-relievo, representing the 
death of the Virgin, with the Apostles. The monument of 
Henry II. was executed by Germain Pilon, after designs by 
Primaticcio. It is 14 feet in height by 10 in breadth, and 12 
and a half in length. It is adorned with twelve composite co¬ 
lumns of deep blue marble, and 12 pilasters of white marble. 
At the angles are four bronze figures representing the cardinal 
virtues. Henry II. and Catherine, in white marble, repose on 
a couch. The likeness of the latter is considered to be remark¬ 
ably true. Opposite, in the southern transept, is the sump¬ 
tuous tomb of Francis I. and Claude of France. This monu¬ 
ment, after the designs of Philibert Delorme, was erected in 
1550. Effigies of Francis and Claude repose upon a plinth of 
black marble placed on a cruciform basement, ornamented 
with bas-reliefs representing the battles of Marignan and Ceri- 
solles; the figures were executed by Pierre Bontemps. Above 
rises a grand arch enriched with arabesques and bas-reliefs by 
Germain Pilon. Sixteen fluted Ionic columns support the en¬ 
tablature, above which are placed five statues of white marble 
in a kneeling posture, namely, Francis I.; Claude, his queen; 
the Dauphin and the Duke of Orleans, sons of Francis and 
Claude; and the Princess Charlotte, their daughter. The vault¬ 
ing and subordinate ornaments of this splendid monument were 
executed by Ambroise Perret and Jacques Chantrel. 

Sacristy .—We are now conducted to the Vestry-room, 
a long circular vaulted chamber of Doric architecture, 
containing ten paintings illustrating events connected with 
the abbey. They are : 1, the Coronation of Marie de Medicis 
; at St. Denis, a copy from Rubens, by Monsiau; 2, Charles V. 

and Francis I. visiting the abbey, by Gros; 3, Death of Louis 
; le Gros, by Monjaud; 4, Philippe le Hardi offering to the 
abbey the relics of St. Louis, by Guerin; 5, St. Louis 
receiving the oriflannne, by Barbier ; 6, St. Louis re¬ 
storing the tombs, by Laudon; 7, Charlemagne at the 






542 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

consecration of the church, by Meynier; 8, Funeral of 
Dagobert, by Gamier; 9, the Preaching of St. Denis in Gaul, 
by Monsiau; 10, the remains of the kings recovered in 1817, 
by Ileim. The doors of this sacristy are adorned with beau¬ 
tiful carvings of the time of Francis I. For an additional fee 
the visitor will be shown the “ Tresor,” containing the 
regalia of the early French monarchs, consisting of gold 
crowns set in precious stones, an imitation of Charlemagne’s 
crown, the original of which is at Alx-la-Chapelle, elc., 
besides chalices and other church utensils. 

The monuments which were preserved in the undercroft are 
now arranged in the chapels, except those of the Bourbon 
dynasty which really contain their mortal remains, viz., 
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette ; the Due de Berri and his two 
children; the Prince de Conde, the Due de Bourbon, Madame 
Victoire Elisabeth de France, daughter of Louis XV. ; Louis 
VII., Louise de Lorraine, and Louis XVIII. Under a Gothic 
canopy, erected to the right at the entrance of the choir, we 
see the tomb of Dagobert and his queen Nanlhilde, restored 
to its former state. This monument of the 12th century, had 
been sawn in two in 1816, so as to separate the back, the 
sculptures of which relate to the queen, while those of the front 
allude to a curious legend in reference to the king. Montfaucou 
relates that one Ansoald, returning from his embassy to Sicily, 
landed at an island where there was an aged hermit named John, 
with whom he enlered into conversation, and was told by 
him that having prayed to God for Dagobert’s soul, he saw on 
the sea some devils, who kept the king bound in a skitf, and 
beat him with Vulcan’s hammers (!) ; that Dagobert called to 
his aid Saints Denis, Martin, and Maurice, who delivered him 
and conveyed his soul to Abraham s bosom. This legend is 
exemplified in the bas-reliefs of the tomb above alluded to. 
The lowest bas-relief represents the corpse of King Dagobert; 
in the next is Dagobert in a boat, tormented by devils ; and, 
in another part adjoining, St. Denis exhorting the king on his 
death-bed. In the third compartment two angels, together 
with St. Denis and St. Martin, are walking upon the waves to 
the boat to rescue Dagobert, whose soul is held in the upper¬ 
most compartment in a sheet, by Saints Denis, Martin, and 
Maurice. The two former are repeated above, kneeling before 
Abraham, and beseeching him to receive the soul into his 
bosom. Opposite this monument will stand one to the me¬ 
mory of the first Napoleon, as the restorer of the church. 

Little more remains to be said of this ancient abbey. Be¬ 
sides the remains of the princes above stated, the hearts of 
Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. are still preserved here in silver 


ST. DENIS. 543 

caskets. Vaults are being constructed for the reception of 
the bodies of the Emperors of the French. The church is 
also remarkable in other respects. The stained glass of 
the clerestory windows forms an illustrated, historical, and 
chronological series of the principal events connected 
both with the rulers of France, 50 in number, and 72 popes 
and abbots, in reference to the church, from St. Denis to Na¬ 
poleon. A profusion of enamel paintings will be seen besides 
in every part of the church. (1) It also possesses a magnificent 
organ by Messrs. Cavaille, Coll, and Co. (2) The person that 
conducts the visitors expects a fee. Adjoining the church, in 
the buildings of the monastery, is the Maison Imperiale 
d’Education de la Legion d'Honneur (see p. 102). 

Tovm. —It contains a small theatre, several manufactories, 
an abattoir, and the parish church, a tolerable specimen of ar¬ 
chitecture. Three considerable fairs are held here annually. 

ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE—is a town of 12,000 inhabitants, 
5 leagues west of the capital, or an hour’s ride by rail from 
the terminus in the rue St. Lazare. Louis le Jeune resided 
here in 1143 in a small chateau, which Francis I. afterwards 
replaced by a palace. Henry II., Charles IX. and Louis XIV. 
were born, and Louis XIII. died, here; Henry IV. began the 
terrace, which was completed by Louis XIV., who fixed his 
residence at St. Germain after the death of his mother. He 
afterwards presented the palace to Madame de Montespan. 
It was subsecpiently occupied by James II., of England, who 
kept his court there for twelve years, until his death in 
1701. Under Louis XV. and Louis XVI. the palace was 
abandoned ; in 1789 it was converted into barracks, then by 
Napoleon into a school for cavalry officers, and lastly into a 
military prison, now suppressed. It is a pentagonal pile, with 
a tower at each angle, and surrounded by a fosse and wall. 
The chief object of interest here is now the 

Gallo-Roman Museum, of recent creation, and devoted to 
antiquities dating from the quaternary period down to the 
time of Caesar. The first room contains relics of the quater¬ 
nary, or pre-historical period ; flint implements found together 
with the bones of extinct animals, such as the elephas primi- 
genius, the rhinoceros with partitioned nostrils, the great 
hippopotamus, the Irish stag, the Ursus spelceus, etc. ; then 
the ossiferous breccia of the caverns of Dordogne, with re¬ 
mains of the reindeer, the bison, the wild goat, all races that 

(1) The Imperial chapter of St. Denis consists of 6 canons of 
the first class, all bishops ; 8 of the second, and 36 honorary ones. 

(2) For much interesting information concerning the abbey 
church of St. Denis, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo. 




544 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


have retired before the approach of man; thirdly, specimens 
of carved bone or ivory, and a fine collection of flint weapons 
presented to the Emperor by the King of Denmark; and, 
lastly, M. Boucher de Perthes’ great collection of pre-diluvian 
remains. In the second room we find the mcgalithic period, 
showing the stale of rudimentary art among the tribes that 
raised those stupendous masses of stone we see at Stone¬ 
henge, at Carnac, and other places. The third room contains 
nothing but the great do'men or tumulus found at Gavrinis, 
remarkable for the rude characters engraved on its inner sur¬ 
face, and which probably never will be deciphered. The 
fourth contains Gallic inscriptions and medals: from this an 
elegant staircase, built under Francis I., leads to the second 
story, where other rooms display specimens of the lacustral 
period, then others of the age of bronze, such as swords, 
necklaces, poniards, and even pottery and woollen stuffs; 
and, to conclude, remains of the Gallic period, from Brennus 
to Caesar. The latter, however, is not yet quite organized. 
Open to visitors on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, from 
half-past 11 to 5 ; to students on Wednesdays and Fridays. 

Church. —On the Place du Chateau, fronting the Palace, is 
the church of St. Germain, approached by a fine Doric portico 
consisting of four columns in front, surmounted by a sculp¬ 
tured pediment. The interior is slightly cruciform, of the Ionic 
order, and has a nave and two aisles. In the first lateral chapel 
to the right there is a handsome Dorictombofwhite marble, (I) 

(i) It bears the following inscriptions: on the cornice, Regio ci- 
neri pietas Regia (to royal ashes royal piety); between the columns, 

Feralc quisquislioc inomunentum suspicis, rerum liumanarum vices me- 
dilare. Magnus in prosperis, in advcrsis major, Jacobus II., Anglorum rex, 
insignes arumnas dolendaque minium fala, pio placidoque obitu exsolvit 
in hac urbe, die XVI a Septembris 1701; el nobiiiores qiiEedem corporis ejus 
paries liic recondita? asservantur. 

(O thou, who beholdest this funereal monument, meditate over the insta¬ 
bility of human things. Great in prosperity, greater still in adversity, 
James 11., King of England, bid adieu to unutterable sorrows and to most 
painful reverses, by a pious and placid death, in this town, on the 10 th 
of September, 1701 j and some of the nobler parts of his body are here en¬ 
tombed.) 

On the basement • 

Qui prius augusta gestabat fronte coronam, 

Exigua nunc pnlvereus reqnescit in urna. 

Quid solium, quid el alia juvanl? tcrit oinnia lethura. 

Verum laus lidei ac morum baud peritura manebit. 

Tu quoque, summeDeus, regem quern regius liospes, 

Infaustum cxrcpit, tecum regnare jubebis. 

(He whose august head once bore a crown, is now mere dust, reposing in a 
small urn. What is the throne? What is power? Death levels all. Hut 
the repute of faith and virtue will remain imperishable. Mayest thou also, 
great God, admit him, to whom a royal host afforded a refuge in misfortune, 
to reign with thee.) 






I 1 



t 






ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE. 545 

erected to the memory of James II. by Geo. IV. of England. 
The whole church has been painted in the Byzantine style by 
Amaury Duval. Above the chapel already mentioned, we see 
a medallion with St. George killing the Dragon. The semi¬ 
cupolas of the other chapels are painted with biblical subjects, 
such as the Feast of Cana, the Sermon on the Mount, the 
Baptism of Christ, etc. The ceiling of the choir represents the 
Adoration of Christ. The frieze of the nave is painted with 
subjects expressive of Mercy, Charity, Redemption, the Word, 
etc. The semi-cupola of the Chapel of the Virgin represents 
the Conception. There is also a Crucifixion, by Ansiaux. 

The Theatre of St. Germain stands on the Place du Theatre; 
it was fitted up by M. Alexandre Dumas, the novelist. Oil 
the opposite side, between the Palace and the railway ter¬ 
minus, we find the entrance to the far' famed 

Terrace —commanding one of the most splendid views in 
Europe. It is 2,4 00 metres in length by 30 in breadth, and 
is accessible on the river side by several flights of steps. It 
is skirted on the opposite side by the Parterre, a delightful 
public walk, with avenues of secular chestnut-trees, and 
grounds laid out in flower-beds intersected with gravel-walks 
and clusters of ornamental shrubs and trees. Under the chest¬ 
nut-trees music is performed by military bands on Thursdays 
and Sundays. Not far from this, we perceive two tine groups 
of Peace and Abundance. Behind the terrace, the 

Forest of St. Germain extends over a surface of 8000 acres, 
the wall of which measures about 30 miles in circuit. Here, 
not far from the extremity of the terrace, we find the Chateau 
Duval, a beautiful little villa belonging to M. A. Fould. Two 
annual fairs are held in this forest, one called F£te de St. 
Louis, the other F6te des Loges. The first takes place at the 
entrance, near the gate of Poissy, on the Sunday after the 
25th of August, and lasts three days. The second, which 
also lasts three days, begins on the first Sunday after the 
30th of August, and is held near the Chateau des Loges, 
a house dependent upon theMaison Imperiale de St. Denis. (1) 
This fair, from its being held in the midst of the forest, has a 
very picturesque appearance, particularly at night, 
i About a league from St. Germain, at Chamhourcy, an es¬ 
tate belonging to the Due de Grammont, there is a mausoleum 

(1) It is situated at the end of an avenue to the right of the 
railway terminus, and was formerly a convent of Augustin friars, 
founded by Anne of Austria. There still exists a small pavilion at 
the end of the garden, where that queen occasionally passed a 
few hours in solitude. Madame Dubarry was exiled there during 
the last illness of Louis XV. 


35 



54 6 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

containing the remains of the Countess of Blessington and the 
Comte d’Orsay. The view from this spot is very fine. 

The elevated position of St. Germain renders it salubrious, 
and it is a favourite resort of the Parisians. In winter, how¬ 
ever, the air is keen. Since the suppression of the atmos¬ 
pheric railway, which has been found too costly, and liable 
to frequent repairs, the old station of Peer/, a village on the 
banks of the Seine below St. Germain, has been restored. 
The station before that, counting from Paris, is that of Vestnet, 
where the visitor may alight to visit the pretty 

Parc du Vesinet —where a village of charming villas has 
sprung up into existence through the instrumentality of a 
private company. Three artificial lakes, connected by 
streamlets spanned by rustic bridges, enliven the prospect, 
while periodical concerts are given on the Pelouse des Cas¬ 
cades, where picturesque cascades issue from an artificial ruin. 

A few minutes’ walk from the last-named station will bring 
the visitor to a wide avenue, leading to the 

Asilc du Vesinet,, an establishment for the reception of sick 
workwomen. It stands in the centre of a large piece of ground 
given by the Emperor, and laid out as a garden. The buildings 
enclose, three courts, the middle one open in front with a basin 
and jet of water in the centre, the other two being skirted 
on three sides with buildings, and on the fourth with a co - 
vered gallery for exercise in bad weather. The buildings en¬ 
closing the two lateral courts are connected at the further end 
of the central court, or cour d'honneur, by the principal edi¬ 
fice, consisting of a ground floor and first story. The prin¬ 
cipal entrance, situated in a central pavilion, gives access, 
first, to covered galleries right and left, and then to a vestibule 
in front, which leads to two refectories right and left, receiv¬ 
ing light from eight windows each, and, with the vestibule, 
occupying the whole ground floor. The second story contains 
the chapel, situated in the centre, and flanked by two pro 
me/ioirs, or large rooms for exercise in winter; these occupy, 
with the chapel, the whole extent of the principal building, 
and have an open balcony in front. The chapel, in the By¬ 
zantine style, is separated from the promenoirs by large oaken 
folding doors ; the altar is of carved oak. The lateral build¬ 
ings contain rooms with four or five beds each ; many of the 
rooms are also provided with cradles. These and the bed¬ 
steads are of iron ; all the rest of the furniture is of oak 
throughout. There are besides toilet rooms, with rows of 
basins along the wall, bathing rooms, and every other ima¬ 
ginable comfort. The sick wards are still more comfortably 
furnished, and heated and ventilated according to Dr. Van 


SCEAUX.' 547 

Iiecke’s system. The number of beds for adults is 300. The 
inmates are all convalescents sent hither from other hospitals, 
and are kept here three weeks, except in cases of relapse. 
Up to Jan. 1st, 18 05, the number of patients received amounted 
to 4,500. Those that work are remunerated. The esta¬ 
blishment covers 100 acres, and has cost 2 , 500,000 fr.; it is 
under the control of the Minister of the Interior. Physician, 
Dr. Guionnis. Architect, M. Laval. Visible from 12 to 4 
on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 

ST. LEtJ TAVERNEY—on the Northern Railroad, celebrated 
for its chateau and park, which before the revolution of 17 89 
belonged to the Due d’Orleans, and was the favourite residence 
of Mme. de Genlis. Napoleon I. gave it to Queen Ilortense, 
and after the Restoration it became the property of the Due de 
Bourbon, who ended his days here in a mysterious manner 
(see p. 325 n.) The present Emperor has caused the church to 
be embellished, and erected a monument in it to Queen Ilor¬ 
tense, to whose memory, as well as that of Louis Napoleon, 
late King of Holland, an annual service is performed. 

ST. OUEN—a league and a half north of Paris, on the left 
of the road to St. Denis, is known for its chateau, where Louis 
XVIII. stopped on his return to Paris in 1814, and where he 
promised a charter to the nation. The chateau, built in 1660, 
was bought by Louis XVIII., who, after embellishing and 
furnishing it, presented it to Madame du Cayla. This spot 
possesses a number of subterranean storehouses for corn, where 
it is kept undamaged for several years ; also an ice-house, 
supplying Paris with about 6 , 000,000 kilos, a-year, and an 
iron bridge of novel and graceful design, built in 1857. (1) 

SCEAUX — is a large village, 2 leagues south of Paris, 
with 1800 inhabitants. Colbert erected here a magnificent 
chateau, with a park laid out by Le Notre. In 1700 this 
estate was purchased by the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV. 
and Madame de Montespan, after whose death it passed to the 
Duke de Penthievre. At the revolution of 17 89 the chateau 
and park were sold, and the former demolished, but the mayor 
of Sceaux and some other persons bought the menagerie, which 
they converted into a place of amusement. Every Sunday, 
from the 1st of May to the 1st of November, there is a bal 
champ6lre given in it, which is much frequented by the Pa¬ 
risians. The church of St. John the Baptist is an old buttressed 
and pinnacled building, without pretensions to architectural 
beauty; it contains however some tolerable paintings, a fine 
bas-relief in white marble on the panel of the altar in the left 

(l) Ice-houses at Gentilly and La Villette also supply Paris, 
each furnishing about 3 , 000,000 kilos. 



548 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

aisle, and a white marble group of the Baptism of Christ on 
the high altar, hy Tuby. On a grass plot adjoining the church, 
the place where Florian, the elegant writer, lies buried, is 
marked hy a granite pillar bearing his bust. The Mairie is 
an elegant little building opposite to the church, and between 
the Menagerie and the railway-station, which, with the rail¬ 
way, is now the most interesting object of the place. This 
railway was expressly constructed to try M. Arnoux’s system 
of locomotives and carriages; the former, having small oblique 
wheels pressing against the rails, besides the usual vertical 
ones, effectually provide against the train’s running off the rails. 
The carriages are hinged together, and so constructed, that 
both the fore and hind wheels may turn freely under them. 
The railway is constructed with a gauge of 6 feet (Mr. Brunei’s 
gauge being 7, and the narrowest admitted hitherto 3 l A), and 
the sharpest curves have been purposely introduced to give 
the system a fair trial. The train describes at each terminus 
a curve of 82 feet radius; the smallest radius on the line is 98 
feet, and the largest 279 feet, results hitherto deemed im¬ 
possible. The total length of the railway is 6 miles and a half, 
which are performed in 25 minutes, and might be in 10. 
The weekly cattle-market, called Marche de Sceaux, is held 
on the road at Bourg la Reine. 

SEVRES—two leagues west of Paris, is situated on the high 
road leading to Versailles, and is one of the most ancient vil¬ 
lages in the environs of the metropolis, being known to have 
existed in 560. It is celebrated for its magnificent Imperial 
manufactory of porcelain, which is now being rebuilt in the 
Park of St. Cloud. It was formed in the Chateau de Vin¬ 
cennes, in 1738, but in 1756, the farmers-general purchased 
the manufactory and transferred it to Sevres. Louis XV., at 
the solicitation of Madame de Pompadour, bought it of them in 
17 59, and since then it has formed part of the domains of the 
State. This establishment consists of three distinct parts : the 
show rooms or magasins, the museum, and the laboratories or 
ateliers. On the stairs leading to the former we perceive 
various cartoons of subjects executed here in stained glass. 
We next enter 6 rooms, containing admirable specimens of the 
perfection to which the art of working porcelain has been 
carried here. The visitor will perceive, besides table and 
tea-services, of from 5,000 to 15,000 fr. value, splendid 
trophies, vases, tables, cabinets, of all sizes, executed 
with the most scrupulous nicety, and of the most tasteful de¬ 
signs. But what will most particularly call his attention is 
the profusion of paintings upon porcelain, copied from the 
best masters with a nicety of execution and truth of colour 


SEVRES. 549 

rarely attained on canvas. Here he will see, in sizes ranging 
between 2 Vi and 3 feet in breadth, copies of the celebrated 
frescos by Raphael and Michel Angelo in the Vatican, such as 
the School of Athens, the Deliverance of St. Peter, £tc.; 
portraits by Titian and Guido; landscapes by Poussin, &c. 
The prices of these range between 25,000 fr. and 40,000 fr. 
MM. Schild, Langlois, and Joseph Richard, are among the 
most esteemed of the artists in this branch , MM. Roussel, 
Bulot, Cabot, and Palandre, are the best for flowers.—The spe¬ 
cimens of stained glass are very beautiful. The Museum is on 
the second floor, and consists of 12 rooms and a long gallery, 
containing a complete collection of foreign china, and the 
materials used in its fabrication; a collection of the china, 
earthenware, and pottery of France, and the earths of which 
they are composed ; with a collection of models of all the orna¬ 
mental vases, services, figures, statues, &c., that have been 
made in the manufactory since its first establishment. Louis 
XVI. enriched this museum with a fine collection of Greek 
vases. The models and specimens, which comprehend every 
kind of earthenware, from the coarsest pottery to the finest 
porcelain, forming a complete illustration of the history of the art, 
are arranged on shelves in the following order •.—1. Etruscan 
vases, antique pottery, Grecian, Roman, and Gallic. 2. Foreign 
earthenware, delf-ware, and stone-ware, with some delf-ware of 
the 15th century, the first that was glazed, being the original 
specimens of Bernard Palissy, the inventor of common glazing? 
3. French earthenware, delf-ware, and stone-ware, dating from 
1740. 4. An interesting representation of the manufacture of 

porcelain from the clay in its rude state to the finishing. 5. 
Porcelain of China, Japan, and India. 0. Porcelain of the dif¬ 
ferent manufactories of France, arranged in chronological 
order, with a progressive table of the qualities and prices to 
the present day. 7. Porcelain of Prussia, Brunswick, Venice, 
Lombardy, and other parts of Italy. 8. Porcelain of Eng¬ 
land, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, Saxony, Austria, 
and Bavaria. 9. Specimens relating to the colouring of 
porcelain, glass, and earthenware, and of the defects to 
which it is liable. Among the objects which will claim more 
particular attention, in the 4 th room to the left on entering, is an 
old mosaic of coloured earthenware, encrusted in the floor, re¬ 
presenting the British arms under different dynasties ; also, in 
the 6th room, a stove in fayence, in the shape of a model of 
the fortress of the Bastille, presented to the Convention by M. 
Ollivier, who fashioned it; a stove in fayence of Louis XIV.’s 
time, brought over here from Versailles; models of Assyrian 
antiquities executed by Mr. Hartley, who obtained a gold 


550 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

medal for them at the Exhibition of 1855 ; old bricks of the 
10th century; enamelled metal of the 14th century ; and in the 
8th and last room on this side, specimens of imitations ol 
pearls and precious stones, according to methods invented by 
the late talented M. Ebelmen. 

The ateliers of the establishment are on the ground floor. 
Visitors are first shown a room with whirling tables, at 
which the throwers and turners sit, gradually creating those 
beautiful forms for which Sevres porcelain is so esteemed. The 
finishing is given by cutting out the profile of the vessel in a 
piece of tin plate, which is afterwards applied to it vertically 
while the wheel turns. The clay is prepared and ground at a 
w r ater mill about five minutes walk from the manufactory, 
and brought here ready for use. The process of casting is re¬ 
sorted to when very thin porcelain is desired. For this pur¬ 
pose the clay, blended with water, is poured into a mould ; 
clear water is then made to rush into it from below by means 
of a pipe connected with a small reservoir of water; the clay 
is by this means deposited on the mould, the superfluous matter 
is poured out, and when dry, the article easily separates from 
the mould. The next process is putting on the handles, if any 
he required. The article is then taken to a room where women 
are employed in picking out any slight flaw they may dis 
cover, after which it goes into the hands of the painter. The 
painters’ room will contain about 20 persons ; the colours em¬ 
ployed are all mineral, and are generally different from what 
they are after baking. Gold is applied in a semi-fluid state, 
being-first dissolved in aqua regia. The article, thus pre¬ 
pared, is taken to the bakehouse, which is in one of the courts. 
It is necessarily baked twice, once to harden it, and a second 
time for glazing; but paintings and delicate articles must be 
baked a third time to obtain the full effect. Plates, cups, &c. 
are placed by twos, threes, fours, etc., into round earthen 
pans with lids, called casettcs, but so that they may not be 
in nmliict with one another. These casettcs are then placed 
in II e hisl furnace, which is heated either with wood or coal; 

I no ihoii undeiueath, separated from the casettcs by a vaulted 
editing, through the apertures of which the hoi air penetrates 
hits the ceunp-anment above. The second furnaces are smaller, 
wa ll ricofi oi earthenware, which are regularly built in at each 
bitkuig; a juejecting tube being alone left so as to be easily 
oyened to Woldi the operation. To see whether the glazing 
poueds hi a satisfactory manner, bits of porcelain are placed 
within, sv as to .be reached at times by an iron hook, and 
drawn out through Ihe tube, when the slate in which they are 
shows the progress that has been made. The glazing substance 



SURESNE. 551 

is obtained from feldsp&th, nicely ground. Paintings are placed 
vertically in furnaces made for the purpose. The furnaces oc¬ 
cupy several rooms in different wings of the building. The por¬ 
celain originally manufactured at Sevres, called porcelaine 
1 end-re, was a composition of glass and earths, susceptible of com¬ 
bining by fusion. It was abandoned on account of its effects 
on the health of the workmen, but successful attempts have 
been made to revive the art. That generally manufactured, 
called porcelaine dure, is formed of kaolin, from Limoges, alkali, 
sand, and saltpetre, to which, when in a state of fusion, clay 
is added. It requires great heat to be hardened, and wood alone 
is used. The biscuit de Sevres is this substance not enamelled. 
The workmanship of the manufactory of Sevres is much more 
highly finished than that of any other manufactory in France, 
notwithstanding the same substance is used; and the white 
porcelain is higher in price than that of any other manufactory, 
on account of the exquisite and difficult shapes of the articles. 
The painters are of the first merit, and the number of work¬ 
men exceeds 180. There is a library attached to the esta¬ 
blishment, containing numerous valuable works with plates, 
relating to travels, descriptions, etc., for the use of the artists 
attached to the establishment, but it is not public. The Sevres 
manufactory, far from covering its expenses, is maintained by 
the government. It is devoted in part to experiments in the 
art, for the benefit of private manufacturers, to whom every in¬ 
formation is liberally granted. Sevres was represen fed in 180 2 
at the great London International Exhibition. Show-rooms 
open daily, Sundays and holidays excepted, from lo to 4, 
without a ticket, but visitors must accept the services of a 
guide, who expects a fee. On Thursdays the Museum is 
public, on other days a ticket is required from M. VAdminis¬ 
trates de la Manufacture de Sevres. To visit the ateliers, 
a permission is rarely granted. The buildings of this manu¬ 
factory are in such a dilapidated state that a new and hand¬ 
some edifice is now being built for it near the entrance lo the 
Park of St. Cloud. A stone bridge of nine arches connects 
Sevres with Billancourt, the Seine being here divided into two 
branches by the almost uninhabited lie Seguin. 

SURESNE—a village at the foot of Mont Valerien, a league 
west of Paris. It is remarkable for the interesting custom of 
the crowning of the Rosiere, a very pretty sight, which takes 
place on the Sunday after St. Louis’s day (August 2 5). There 
are several elegant villas at this place, one of the most remark¬ 
able being that of Baron S. de Rothschild. (1) A suspen- 

(i) This beautiful seat and its extensive liot-liouses were set 
fire to and greatly devastated by the mob, in February, 1848. 





552 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

sion bridge has been thrown across the river to meet the road 
leading by the Porte de Longchamps to the Bois de Boulogne. 

VAUGIRARD—(See p. 447.) 

VERSAILLES.—This large handsome town, of which we 
subjoin a partial plan, which the visitor will find of the utmost 
utility, is situated four leagues S.W. of Paris; it is the seat of 
the prefecture of the Seine and Oise, the see cf a bishop, and 
possesses three tribunals, of Criminal Justice, Premiere In¬ 
stance , and Commerce, besides an imperial college. Before 
1789 its population was computed at 100,000, but at present 
it does not contain 30,000 inhabitants. 

History. —In 1501 Versailles was a small village in the midst 
of woods, used as a hunting station by Henry IV. and Louis 
XIII., who, in 1624, built a hunting-lodge there. A few years 
later he purchased some land where the palace now stands, 
with the old castel of F. de Gondy, archbishop of Paris, and 
erected a small chateau, of red brick, consisting of a central 
pile, with two wings and four pavilions ; enclosed by a fosse, 
and occupying scarcely more space than the inner apartments 
which surround the Cour de Marbre. It was not until 
1600, that Louis XIV., becoming tired of St. Germain, con¬ 
ceived the idea of converting his predecessor’s chateau into a 
magnificent royal residence. The works were commenced in 
1664, under the direction of the architect Levau. Le Notre 
laid out the gardens and parks, and 30,000 soldiers were more 
than once simultaneously employed on the works. Water had 
to be brought from a great distance to supply the reservoirs 
and fountains ; and the project was formed and actually com¬ 
menced, of turningthe river Eure through Versailles (seep. 519). 
Beyond the gardens a second inclosure w r as formed, called the 
Little Park, four leagues in circuit; and beyond this still was 
the third inclosure, the Great Park, of 20 leagues, and including 
numerous villages. The expense of all these stupendous un¬ 
dertakings amounted to 40 millions sterling. Building was en¬ 
couraged, and a large population and an elegant city gradually 
rose round the royal residence. After Levau’s death, in 167 0, 
Jules H. Mansard, nephew of the celebrated Mansard, continued 
the works, and, in order not to destroy what remained of the 
chateau of Louis XIII., built the magnificent buildings forming 
the garden front. The king, although he often visited Ver¬ 
sailles, resided at St. Germain till 1681, when the whole court 
removed to the new palace. Most of the dependencies were 
erected about this time; the chapel, however, was not begun till 
1699,nor finished till 1710. Under Louis XV., the theatre, at 
the extremity of the northern wing, was begun by Gabriel, 
finished by Leroy, and inaugurated on the marriage of the Dau- 















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VERSAILLES. 553 

phin, Louis XVI., in 1770. Subsequently Gabriel added a wing 
and pavilion to the northern side of the principal court. 
From the lime of Louis XIV. to that of the revolution of 1789, 
with the exception of the Regency of the Duke of Orleans dur¬ 
ing the minority of Louis XV., 1715-1722, the court, the royal 
family, the ministers, and the various public officers, were lo¬ 
cated at Versailles. But after 17 92 the palace was devastated, 
and every thing moveable disposed of as national property. 
An attempt was made to constitute it a dependency to the 
Hotel des Invalidcs; and it would even have been sold in lots, 
had not Napoleon preserved it from destruction. The estimated 
expense of 50 millions of francs, for its restoration, alone 
hindered him from residing here; but he repaired the walls, 
fountains, &c., and restored some of the apartments. Louis 
XVIII., who wished to re-establish the court in it, was stopped 
by similar considerations, and limited his expenditure to 6 
millions of francs, which were employed in repairs and in 
building the pavilion on the southern side corresponding to 
that of Gabriel. Louis Philippe, after adding a new pile of 
buildings, connecting the chapel and theatre, repaired and 
harmonized the different parts of the palace, at a cost of 
15,000,000 fr., and devoted it to the reception of a rich and 
splendid historical museum, unparalleled in Europe. 

The Palace and its Dependencies. — Exterior. —The palace 
is approached from the town by the Place d’Armes, 800 feet 
broad, on the eastern side of which, flanking the Avenue de 
Paris, are the Stahles, erected under Louis XIV. by J. H. Man¬ 
sard. They are fronted by elegant railings connecting their 
lateral wings, and extending along a segment having its centre 
in the court of the palace. They have lofty gateways decorated 
with trophies, and enclose spacious courts. The buildings to the 
north, called les Grancles Ecuries, and now occupied by the 
artillery of the Garde Imperial e , contained the carriages and 
horses of the royal family; while those to the south, called 
les Petites Ecuries, included stables for the royal stud, a 
riding-school, &c. The latter are now barracks for cavalry ; 
the riding-school re-established in 1855, is now again 
I suppressed. The two buildings together afford accom¬ 
modation to 1000 horses. The Grand Court, 380 feet in 
breadth, is separated from the Place d’Armes by stone parapets, 
flanking an iron railing, richly charged with gilded ornaments, 
with a central gateway, surmounted by the ancient crown and 
shield of France with the three tleurs de lis. At the extre¬ 
mities of this railing are groups of figures in stone; those on 
the right representing France victorious over Austria, by 
Marsy, and Peace, by the same those on the left. Francs 




554 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

victorious over Spain, by Girardon, and Abundance, by the 
same. The court itself slopes from the palace, and on each 
side is a plain range of buildings, erected by Louis XIV. for 
the use of the ministers. In front of those stand sixteen marble 
statues, twelve of which, until 1837, ornamented the Pont de 
la Concorde at Paris. Those on the right are Richelieu, Bayard, 
Colbert, Jourdan, Massena, Tourville, Duguay-Trouin, and Tu- 
renne ; those on the left are Suger, Du Guesclin, Sully, Lannes, 
Mortier, Suffren, Duquesne, and Conde. At the upper part of 
the court, is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. ; the 
figure of the monarch, by Petitot;—that of the horse, originally 
intended for a statue of Louis XV. in the Champs Elysees, by 
Cartelier. From this point a fine view is obtained of the 
three avenues which stretch beyond the place d’Armes. Beyond 
the Grand Court, at first called the Cour des Ministres, is the 
court formerly called Cour Roy ale, which, before 17 89 was 
separated from it by an iron railing, and within which none 
but the carriages of royal personages, or privileged families 
were admitted. On the northern side of this are the wing 
and pavilion, in the Corinthian style, erected by Gabriel, 
under Louis XV.; on the southern are those terminated under 
Louis XVIII. The friezes of the pediments surmounting these 
pavilions bear the inscription, “ A toutes les gloires de la 
France .” The Cour de Marbre, which follows, is enclosed 
by the old palace of Louis XIII., all of red brick coped with 
stone; it consists of a ground floor and first story, surmounted 
by a bip-roof. The whole is crowned with balustrades and 
vases, trophies, and statues. The busts, nearly all of white 
marble, and either antique or imitations of the antique, are 80 
in number, and are placed on brackets between the windows; 
the statues, vases, See., were all executed by the most cele¬ 
brated sculptors of the age of Louis XIV. in the centre is a 
balcony of while marble, supported by four couples of Doric 
columns of coloured marble; above this is an attic crowned 
with two recumbent figures—Mars, sculptured by Marsy, 
and Hercules, by Girardon, supporting a clock. (1) An octagonal 
overhanging turret graces one of the corners of the southern 
wing. (2) South of the Cour Roy ale, a small court, which bears 

(1) The dial-plate of this clock was only used to mark the 
hour of the king’s death, which in the case of Louis XIV., was 
announced by the principal gentleman of the bed-chamber, 
who came out on the balcony below, and, exclaiming “ Le roi 
est mort!” broke his wand of office ; he then took up another, 
and cried “ Vive le roi!” 

(2) The pavement of the Cour de Marbre , was formerly much 
more elevated. In the centre stood a beautiful basin and foun- 


VERSAILLES. 555 

the name of Cour ties Princes, divides the wing finished hy 
Louis XVIII. from the southern one. This wing encloses the 
Cour de la Surintendance, so called from the offices that once 
occupied its eastern side, and now ceded to the municipality of 
Versailles for the public library, See. A street approaches the 
palace on this side, and separates the southern wing from the 
Grand Commun, a vast square building, now a military hospi¬ 
tal, substantially built of brick, enclosing a square court, and 
containing 1,000 rooms. (1) North of the Cour Roy ale, the 
Cour de la Chapelle intervenes between the wing built by 
Louis XV. and the chapel, the architecture of which is 
remarkably llorid and elegant, in the best style of the 
preceding age. It is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters 
between the windows, with sculpture, formerly gilt, and a 
balustrade,crowned by 2 8 statues. The external dimensions 
are 148 feet by 7 5, in length and breadth, with an altitude 
of 90 feet. The height of its roof, richly edged with iron 
work, causes this building to be seen over the palace from 
almost every side, and is said to have resulted from a design 
of the architect, to force Louis XIV. to raise the whole palace 
another story. The northern wing comprises the Cour de la 
Bouchc, where the kitchens were, and the Cour du Theatre ; 
the latter bounded on the north by the Salle de VOpera, the 
exterior of which is plain and massive. Beyond the theatre is 
one of the great reservoirs which supply the fountains. The 
pastern side of these courts is formed by a pile of building of 
glegant design, and harmonizing with the older parts of the 
palace, repaired by Louis Philippe; it forms one side of a 
\vide street, to the east of which are some minor dependencies 
of the palace, and another reservoir. The Cour de la Chapelle 
and the Cour des Princes lead each into the gardens, and afford 
access Co tin magnificent western front of the palace—the 
grandest specimen of that style in France. It presents a large 
projecting mass of building, with two immense wings, and 
consists of a ground-floor and first-floor of the Ionic style, and 
an attic. The wings, the southern being rather the longer of the 
two, exceed 500 feel in length; the central front is 320 feet 
long, and each of its retiring sides 2GO feet; the number of 
windows and doors is 37 5. The immense extent of the facade 

lain, and the court itself was often used by Louis XIV., for 
festivals and “ masques.” 

(l) No less than 3,ooo personswere lodgedhere when the Court 
resided at Versailles. In 1793 it was converted into a manu¬ 
factory of arms, which attained the highest celebrity, and sup¬ 
plied the French army annually with 50,000 muskets. In 
1815 it was stripped and devastated by the Prussians. 







556 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


is broken at intervals by 15 peristyles of coupled Ionic co¬ 
lumns, surmounted by allegorical figures in stone. The best 
view of this front is from the great terrace, and the whole pa¬ 
lace may be advantageously seen from the heights of Satory. 

Interior, and Historical Museum. —Before noticing the 
internal arrangements of the palace, the reader should be in¬ 
formed that the gallery is open to the public every day 
except Mondays, from 12 to 4, without tickets. 

At the entrance of the palace, near the chapel, is an office 
where authorized guides, very useful to strangers, may be hired 
at the rate of a franc an hour ( see Preface, p. viii.). The 
historical collections comprised in the palace may be divided 
into seven sections:—1. Historical Pictures; 2. Portraits; 
3. Busts and Statues; 4. Coins ; 5. Views of Royal Residences, 
&c.; 6. Mamie Gallery; 7. Tombs. The historical pictures re¬ 
present the great battles, military and naval, which have 
illustrated the arms of France from the earliest periods:—the 
most remarkable historical events in the national annals; the 
age of Louis XIV.; the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI.; the 




ft 


i 


: 


brilliant epoch of 1792 ; the victories of the first Republic ; the 
campaigns of Napoleon; the chief events of the Empire; the 
reign of Louis XVIII.; the reign of Charles X.; the revolution 
of 1830, and the reign of Louis Philippe. The portraits, 
busts, statues, and coins comprise the Kings from Phara- 
mond to the late monarch—Grand Admirals, Constables, Mar¬ 
shals, and celebrated warriors of France, with a large col¬ 
lection of persons of note of all ages and countries. The views 
of royal residences have a particular value, as representing 
edifices, many of which no longer exist, and as illustrating the 
costumes, &c., of past times. 

Northern Wing. —This wing partly occupies the site 
of the Fontaine de Tethys, immortalized by La Fontaine, 
and was first inhabited by the Duke de Berri, grandson of 
Louis XIV., the Prince de Conti, elected King of Poland in 1697, 
the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV., the beautiful Marquise 
de Thianges, sister of Madame de Montespan, Marshal Villars, 
and the Duke de St: Simon, author of the Memoirs. In after 
times the ground-floor was partly occupied by the Prince de 
Conde, who commanded the army of emigrants during the re¬ 
volution of 1789 ; and the first floor (1) by the Dukes of An 
gouleme and Berri, sons of Charles X. The visitor, on entering 
the Vestibule de la Chapelle , obtains a commodious view of 

(I) It was in the room of this story, adjoining the vestibule of 
the chapel, that the Cardinal de Rohan was arrested for the 
affair of the famous necklace that had so fatal an inlluenoe on 
the destinies of Marie Antoinette and her court. 









VERSAILLES. 5 57 

, The Chapel. —The interior of this edifice was restored 
under Louis Philippe to its original splendour. ( 1 ) It consists 
of a nave and aisles supporting side galleries fronted with 
elegant Corinthian columns. The dimensions are 114 feet from 
the entrance to the altar, 60 feet in breadth, and 86 feet 
in height. The square compartments of the ceiling of the 
■ galleries are painted with sacred subjects. The balustrades 
are of marble and gilt bronze. The arched ceiling 
springing from a rich architrave and cornice, above the lofty 
columns, glows from the pencil of A. Covpel, Lafosse, and 
Jouvenet; the figures over the organ and galleries are by the 
Boullongues and Covpel. The pavement is composed of rare 
marbles wrought in mosaic. In the aisles there are seven 
altars, ornamented with costly marbles, gilding, pictures, and 
bronze bas-reliefs, the latter peculiarly worthy of inspection. 
They stand in the following order, l, Martyrdom of Ste. Adelaide, 
by Adam; 2, Ste. Anne teaching the Virgin; 3, St. Charles 
Borromeo imploring Heaven to arrest the plague at Milan, by 
Bouchardon; 4. the Chapelle du Dauphin, opposite to which is 
a Last Supper, by Paul Veronese; 5, Martyrdom of St. Peter; 
6 , St. Louis succouring the plague-stricken, by Poiriet; 7, Mar¬ 
tyrdom of Ste. Victoire. The Chapel of the Virgin, painted 
jfby Boullongne jun., deserves notice. The high altar is exceed¬ 
ingly grand, and the organ is one of the finest in France. In 
1798 this Chapel remained almost uninjured. Service is 
chaunted here every Sunday morning. 

The Historical Museum is entered from the ground floor 
vestibule of the Chapel, by a door to the right, on the side 
fronting the gardens. The walls are adorned with an allego¬ 
rical alto-relievo representing Louis XIV. crossing the Rhine 
at Tolhuis in 1672. A suite of apartments, eleven in number, 
contains a series of pictures illustrating some of the principal 
i events of the history of France up to the revolution of 17 89. At 
the end of this suite the visitor on application is introduced to 

The Salle de VOpera. —At the opposite extremity of the 
northern wing, and approached by a staircase lately constructed, 
is the theatre^ Its length is 144* feet, divided into equal parts 
by the curtain; its breadth 60 feet, and its height 50; 14 Ionic 
columns, fluted and gilt, separate the upper boxes, fronted 
with balustrades, &c., richly gilt. The other decorations are 
in crimson and gold, with a profusion of mirrors and chan¬ 
deliers. The ceiling is by Durameau. The central box is taste¬ 
fully decorated, and was that occupied by Louis XV. The 

(i) Many remarkable religious ceremonies took place before its 
altar, one* of the most interesting was the marriage of Louis XVI. 
and Marie Antoinette, in 1769. 










ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


558 

lateral boxes were reserved for the Ambassadors, and the pit 
for the Staff. Behind the entrance to the royal box is the Foyer 
du Roi, where the Court retired for refreshment between the 
acts. It is of Ionic architecture, lit by four windows ; above 
the doors and chimney piece are fine alti-rilievi, and the de¬ 
corations are in keeping with those of the Salle. The Foijer 
des Ambassadeurs is below. (1) Whenever a grand opera was 
performed here, the expense is said to have been upwards of 
100,000 fr. A small fee is expected by the conductor. 

On leaving this place the visitor will enter a gallery, 300 
feet in length, situated behind the historical museum, and con¬ 
taining the busts, statues, and monumental effigies of the kings, 
queens, and illustrious personages of France up to the reign of 
Louis XV. In the middle of this gallery is the entrance to the 

Salle des Croisades, a series of five splendid rooms in the 
Gothic style, forming a gallery of pictures relating to those 
interesting periods. The ceilings and walls are covered with 
armorial bearings of French knights who fought in the Holy 
Land; the 3d room, bisected by a series of three arches, 
contains colossal pictures of battles fought during the crusades. 
The first picture to the left on entering is executed in Beauvais 
tapestry, from the original painting of Horace Vernet. Under 
the arches are three monumental tombs; those in plaster bear 
the recumbent figures of Parisot de la Vallette and Pierre d’Au- 
busson, Grand Masters of the Order of St. John of Jeru¬ 
salem ; the central one is a cast from the original marble 
statue of Villiers de Lisle Adani in the attitude of prayer, 
the piers of the arches and the intervals of the wall between the 
pictures are filled with escutcheons bearing the respective names 
and dates. Facing the central window stands a large mortar 
formerly used for medical purposes by the Knights Hospi¬ 
tallers of St. John of Rhodes, and in the wall opposite are the ce¬ 
dar gates of the Hospital of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, in 

(I) Of the grand fetes given here, the first was in honour of 
the marriage of Louis XVI.; the next for the birth of his son ; 
the third, the ill-judged banquet of the Gardes du Corps, in 
1789 ; the fourth, on the grand inauguration of the Historical 
Museum, 1 7th May, 1837; the fifth on the occasion of the Na¬ 
tional Exhibition in 1844, and the last, on the 25th August, 
1 855, when Her Majesty Queen Victoria partook of a splendid 
supper here, on the occasion of the grand ball given in this pa¬ 
lace in honour of her visit to the Emperor. On this occasion 
the pit was boarded over, and 400 guests sat down to table. The 
royal party, including the Queen and Prince Albert, the Emperor 
and Empress, the Princess Royal and Prince of Wales, Prince 
Napoleon, Princess Matilda, and the Prince of Bavaria, supped in 
the Imperial box. The Salle was lit by 42 lustres and chandeliers. 








VERSAILLES. 559 

the island of Rhodes, given to the Prince de Joinville by Sultan 
Mahmoud in 1836. The shields above these gates are finely 
carved. Between the two entrances to the Salle des Croisades 
stands a splendid monument in plaster of Ferdinand of Arra- 
gon and Elizabeth of Castille, transported here from the Louvre. 

On issuing from the statue-gallery, a winding staircase by 
the side of the Chapel leads to the vestibule of the first floor. 
Here is another gallery of statues, Stc., of personages illustrious 
in the earlier ages of the monarchy. In the central recess 
overlooking the Escalier de Constantine is a beautiful statue 
of the late Duke of Orleans, executed by Pradier, in white 
marble. The pedestal is octagonal; four of its sides are graced 
with statues of genii in niches, of extraordinary beauty; on 
; two more are bas-reliefs illustrating scenes of the African 
campaign conducted by the Prince; the statue itself repre¬ 
sents him in an easy sitting posture; the drapery is grace¬ 
ful (1.) Against the wall we see a statue of Marshal Bugeaud, 
near which doors open into a series of seven rooms, contain¬ 
ing splendid paintings of peculiar interest. 

In the first of these rooms we see, among others, two full- 
length portraits of Marshals Bosquet and Canrobert. In the 
second there are : 1. a large painting representing the Con¬ 
gress of Paris in t85G, and remarkable for the portraits it con¬ 
tains of the statesmen who took part in it; 2. the Battle of 
the Alma, by Rivoulon; 3. the storming of theMamelon Vert, 
by Protais; 4. the triumphal entry into Paris of the troops 
returned from Italy in 1859. In the third to the right are : 
Horace Vernet’s celebrated picture of the surprise of Abdel- 
Kader’s Smala, a full-length portrait of that distinguished 
Arab, and a painting of the siege of Rome in 1849. Next 
follows to the left the Salle de Constantine, containing large 
pictures of the taking of that place, and other scenes of the Al¬ 
gerian war, besides others of the taking of Antwerp, Ancona, 
and St. Juan d’Ulloa, all by Horace Vernet. The fifth is a 
large saloon, the coves of which bear reference to the war of 
Morocco. It contains full-length portraits of Marshal de St. 
Arnaud and Marshal MacMahon, Duke of Magenta ; the storm¬ 
ing of Sebastopol, by De Vaux ; the battles of Magenta and 
Solferino, and busts of Marshals Niel and Bosquet, by Count 
de Nieuwerkerke. The storming of the Malakoff tower is also 
here. In the sixth and seventh rooms we find subjects taken 
from the first revolution, including the 18th Brumaire by Bou- 
chot, and from the history of France in the 16th century. 

(l) In 1848 the Provisional Government, fearing an attack on 
the palace, caused this statue to be concealed in a store-room, 
but it now occupies its former position. 







560 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

The visitor now returns to the statue-gallery, and, turn¬ 
ing to his right, will perceive, amongst others, the admirable o 
statue of Joan of Arc, executed by the late talented Princess I 
Marie of France, Duchess of Wurtemberg. Ascending the 
staircase at the end leading to the attic story, he will find a c 
room to the right containing portraits of celebrated literati, men 
of science, and artists. On the landing-place stands a bust of v 
Froissart, the chronicler. Adjoining are seven rooms on the gar- f 
den side, and three more, including along gallery looking into the 
northern court, containing a collection of historical portraits, i 
from the earliest times to those of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoi¬ 
nette, Louis XVIII., and Charles X., many of which are ori¬ 
ginal ; between the embrasures of the windows are glass stands 
with coins, medals, See. Returning to the first story, the vi¬ 
sitor will examine a suite of 10 rooms, on the garden side, in 
which the series of historical paintings is continued from 17 9 5 
to the revolution of 1830. It ends in the elegant Corinthian 
vestibule, already mentioned, with statues of France and Peace 
in niches, and affording a more distinct view of the upper part 
of the chapel and the royal pew, adorned with two admirable 
bas-reliefs, viz., the Circumcision by Poiriet, and Christ with 
the Doctors, by Coustou. This vestibule opens into 

The Grands Appartements, which occupy the whole of the 
first floor of the central projecting building facing the garden ; 
the suite on the north belonged to the King, that on the south 
was the Queen’s. The former present a striking contrast to 
the other suites of the palace; they are large and lofty, en¬ 
crusted with marbles, and loaded with a profusion of massive 
gilded ornaments; the ceilings are richly painted, and the ge¬ 
neral effect is gorgeous. The Queen’s apartments are in white 
and gold, with ceilings less richly painted, and from their 
southern aspect have a light and cheerful appearance. All these 
rooms, contain a most interesting series of pictures and portraits 
illustrative of the life and domestic relations of Louis XIV. 
The Salon d'Hercule, which precedes the suite, once descended 
to the ground-floor, and was the chapel where Bossuet and 
Massillon preached. The splendid ceiling, 64 feet by 54, repre¬ 
senting the apotheosis of Hercules, was executed by Lemoyne 
in 1729. Here are also the equestrian portrait of Louis XIV., 
and the Passage of the Rhine. Next follows the So He de VAbon- 
dance, with a ceiling painted by Houasse, and representing 
Abundance. This opens to the left into two rooms which con¬ 
tain some excellent aquarelles of military subjects, and give 
access to the Salle des Etats-Generaux. Its walls are covered 
with paintings byBlondel, representing the sittings of the States 
General on various occasions, the lits de justice, 6cc., thus 




VERSAILLES? g 61 

forming a complete history of the origin and gradual progress 
Constitutional government in France. Returning to theSuHe 
(ie t Abondance, the next are the Salons de Venus and de 
Diane, which derive their names from the subjects on the 
ceilings, the first by Houasse, and the latter by Blanchard 
In the former is a beautiful group of the three Graces in 
white marble, by Pradier ; and in the latter there are 
portraits of Marie Therese of Austria and Louis XIV The 
Salon de Mars was used as a ball-room by Louis * XIV.- 
its ceiling is by Audran, Jouvenet, and Houasse. Here a 
picture representing the interview of Louis XIV. and Philip 
IV. of Spain is worthy of attention. Beyond is the Salon 
de Mercure, once the state bed-room, and remarkable for its 
ceiling, by Jean Baptiste Champagne, and various subjects 
from the reign of Louis XIV. Next is the Salon d’Apollon 
or Throne Room, (l) with a ceiling painted by Lafosse. The 
series of paintings above mentioned is continued here.* The 
Salon de la Guerre, consecrated to the military glory of 
Louis XIV., contains a ceiling by Lebrun, representing France 
chastising Germany, Spain, and Holland. It leads into 
the Grande Galerie des Glaces (or de Louis XIV.), one 
of the finest rooms in the world, extending with the Salon 
de la Guerre and the Salon de la Paix, at the opposite extre¬ 
mity, along the whole of the central facade, and measuring 
239 feet in length, 35 feet in width, and 43 feet in height, it 
is lighted by 17 large arched windows, which correspond with 
arches on the opposite wall, filled with mirrors; sixty Corin¬ 
thian pilasters of red marble, with bases and capitals of gilt 
bronze, fill up the intervals between the windows and between 
the arches; each of the entrances is adorned with columns of 
the same order. The vaulted ceiling was painted alon" its 
whole length by Lebrun, and is divided into nine large & and 
eighteen smaller compartments, in which are allegorically re¬ 
presented the principal events in the history of Louis XIV. 
from the peace of the Pyrenees in 1659 to that of Nimeguen in 

(l) Here Louis XIV. received ambassadors, accepted the apo¬ 
logy of the Doge of Genoa, and in 1 7 i 5 held his last public au¬ 
dience. It was used for similar purposes by Louis XV. and Louis 
XVI. Splendid fetes were held here, of which those on the 
marriage of the Duke de Bourgogne in 1697, on the arrival of 
Marie Antoinette, and on the occasion of Her Majesty Queen Vic¬ 
toria’s visit, Aug. 25, 1 855, were themostbrilliant. On thisoccasion 
the Galerie des Glaces was lit with 3ooo wax candles and 42 chande¬ 
liers. The private apartments were thrown open to the guests and 
the stairs, vestibules, and sitting-rooms, decked with the rarest 
flowers. Queen Victoria opened the ball with the Emperor in a 
quadrille, and waltzed with him in the course of the evening. 

36 


562 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

1678. In niches on either side are marble statues of Venus, 
Minerva, Adonis, and Mercury. At a short distance, through 
one of the doors to the left, is the entrance to the 

Private Apartments, —visible from 12 to 4 with tickets, 
to be had by writing to M. le General Bolin, aux 
Taileries. —The first of these is the Cabinet du Roi, or 
Salon da Conseil , containing part of the original fur¬ 
niture of the time of Louis XIV., among which will be noted 
the council table and arm-chair of the King. At one end is a 
celebrated clock, which displays a figure of that Monarch, and 
plays a chime when the hour strikes, (l) Next follows : 

Les Petits Appartements reserves, which occupy the northern 
side of the Cour de Marbre, to which none were admitted but 
those who had the grande entree . The first was the billiard- 
room of Louis XIV., and was afterwards the bed-chamber 
of his successors; it was in this room the death of Louis 

XV. , so graphically described in Madame Campan’s Memoirs, 
took place. At present it contains a small equestrian statue 
of Louis XV. Beyond is the Salle des Pendules, so called 
from a magnificent clock, which shows the day of the month, 
the phases of the moon, the revolution of the earth, and the 
motion of the planets. Near this is a fine marble table, on 
which is engraved a plan of the forest of St. Germain. On the 
floor is a meridian line traced by the hands of Louis XVI. (2) Next 
comes the Cabinet des Chasses, from whence a window on a 
balcony looks into the Cour des Cerfs, where the Royal Family 
placed themselves after grand hunting parties to see the game 
counted in the court. A grated door to the left of this window 
admitted Madame du Barri secretly to Louis XV.’s chamber ; 

(1) In this room Louis XIV. used to transact business with his 
ministers Colbert, Louvois, and Torcy; here he took leave of 
Marshal Villars, when the fate of the monarchy depended on the 
campaign which ended with the victory of Denain; iiere he re¬ 
ceived Lord Rolingbroke; here he introduced to the grandees 
of Spain his grandson, the Due d’Anjou, as their king, and de¬ 
clared that “thenceforth there were no Pyrenees.” Louis XV. 
here signed the decree for expelling the Jesuits, in 1762, and the 
treaty that terminated the seven years’ war, in 1763; here, also, 
that easy monarch suffered Mine, du Barry to sit on the arm of 
his chair in the presence of the Council, and to fling into the fire 
a packet of unopened dispatches. On the 23d June, U 89 , in 
the recess of the window nearest the Royal bedchamber, Louis 

XVI. received from the Marquis de Dreux-Br£ze the bold reply of 
Mirabeau, that “the deputies were assembled by the will of the 
people, and would not leave their place of meeting except by the 
force of Ills master’s bayonets.’’ 

(g) The conductor will sometimes invert the order of the pre¬ 
sent description. 


VERSAILLES. 553 

her apartment was over this room, and was approached by a 
small staircase, the access to which is by a richly gilded door. 
At the bottom of this staircase, leading into the Cour de Mar - 
bre, an attempt was made to assassinate Louis XV. by Damiens 
in 17 57. (1) The Cabinet des Chasses contains the portraits of 
the principal architects, painters, See., who have contributed 
to the building and ornamenting of the palace. Adjoining is 
the Salon du Dejeuner de Louis XIV. , also looking on the Cour 
des Cerfs. Here an elegant cupboard will be remarked, with 
a miniature representing a huntingparty; and adorned around 
with medallions, in Sevres porcelain, of family portraits of the 
time. (2) From this room the landing place of a staircase, which 
leads to one of the vestibules and to the Galerie des Marecliaux 
(see below) opens into what formerly was a billiard-room, and 
which was also used by Mignard for a study or atelier. This 
leads to the Salle d manger de Louis XIV., afterwards the 
Cabinet de Louis XVI., where the latter traced out the route 
of the unfortunate Lapeyrouse. (3) Immediately adjoining 
this room is Louis XIV.’s Confessional, and the chair once oc¬ 
cupied by Pere la Chaise, or Pere Letellier, whilst gaining that 
influence over the royal mind which ended in the Revocation 
of the Edict of Nantes. The suite terminates here at the ex¬ 
tremity of the Cour de Marbre. It contains numerous portraits 
and pictures relating to the personages and times by which they 
have been rendered remarkable. Returning to the Salle des Pen- 
dules , we pass to the Cabinet de Travail de Louis XVI., with an 
equestrian portrait of Louis XIV.; next is the Cabinet de la Vais ■ 
selle Tor, or des Porcelaines, with a port rait of Madame de Main- 
tenon, and the infant Marie Adelaide of Savoy at her knees; the 
Cabinet des Medailles, with a miniature painting of fine execu- 

(1) On the same floor with the apartment of Madame du Barry 
are several small chambers, where Louis XV. and his successor 
used to seclude themselves; adjoining Avas a workshop, where 
Louis XVI. had his turning-lathe established, and another in 
which his forge still exists. Above was a belvedere, overlooking 
the palace and neighbourhood, where the latter monarch was : 
accustomed to sit with a telescope, and amuse himself in watch¬ 
ing what passed in the town and palace gardens. 

(2) This was the private apartment of Madame de Maintenon,, 
in which Louis XIV. passed most of his evenings in the latter 
part of his life; it was the saloon of King Louis Philippe during; 
his visits to Versailles. 

IS) Here Louis XIV. generally dined with Madame de Mainfenom 
and Iris family. The great monarch never touched tea,chocolate,, 
coffee, or any liqueur; he disliked game, hut was fond of pastry ;; 
lie had only two meals a day, and drank no other nine than' 
Champagne, always iced. In this room Louis XIV. himself waited*, 
ou Molifere, to teach bis courtiers to respect genius. 


1 


564 ' ' ENVIRONS OP PARIS# 

tion representing the Coronation of Louis XV., the Bibliotheqtie t 
where the historians of France are now collected, and in i 
which, in a cupboard near the northern door, the famous Livre 
Rouge was found; and the Salle a manger de Louis XV., with 
paintings of the taking of Cambrai, Naarden, and Reinberg. 

Returning to the Salon du Conseil, the visitor enters th eCham- 
bre a coucher de Louis XIV., which occupies the centre of the 
front towards the Cour de Marbre, and is the gem of the palace. 
The decorations of this splendid room, of the Composite order, 
are exceedingly magnificent, and the furniture has been care¬ 
fully restored to the state in which it was at the decease of 
the “Grand Monarch.” The ceiling, by Paul Veronese, re¬ 
presents Jupiter punishing Crime ; it was placed here by Na¬ 
poleon I., who brought it from the hall of the Council of Ten, 
at Venice. Beside the bed are two Holy Families of the Ita¬ 
lian and Flemish schools ; and other paintings represent Louis 
XIII. and other personages of the Royal Family. The bed, 
enclosed by a splendidly gilt balustrade, is that on which the 
great King died; it was made by Simon Delobel, his valet, 
who worked at it for twelve years, and the coverlet and hang¬ 
ings are partly the work of the young ladies of St. Cyr. (1) We 
next come to the OEil de Boeuf, a beautifully decorated room, 
the grand antechamber of the King, so called from an oval win¬ 
dow at the extremity, and celebrated in the annals of Ver¬ 
sailles for the intrigues of courtiers, who waited here the 
“lever” of the monarch. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette 
dined here in public on Sundays. In this room there is a 
bronze model of the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. which 
stands in the court ; also a large painting of Louis XIV. and 
his family, represented as the Gods of Olympus, by Nocret. 

A. door on the left leads to the Salle des Gardes du Corps 
iu Roi, and the Salle des Valets de pied du Roi, containing 
«ome good paintings of the Flemish school. 

A small door in the south-west corner of the OEil de Bceuf 
communicates with the Queen’s private apartments and bed¬ 
room. These are shown with the former, and go by the name 
of Petits Appartements de Marie Antoinette. They contain, 
besides other rooms of ordinary use, her library, with her 
bust, and her boudoir with a bust of Joseph 11.(2) A fee is given 
to the attendants who show these rooms and the Petits Ap- 

(I) Since the death of Louis XIV. no monarch has slept n this 
room ; but from the balcony Louis XVI., attended by the Queen 
and his children, addressed the infuriated mob who came to tear 
him from his palace on the 6th October, 1789. 

(9) These rooms were placed at Queen Victoria’s disposal during 
her rlsits to the palace. 



VERSAILLES. 5G5 

partements. Returning to the OEil de Bceuf and the Galerie 
des Glaces, we find at the opposite end of the latter, the 

Salon de la Paix, formerly the Queen’s card-room, a splen¬ 
did room, which was the scene of many curious and pi¬ 
quant anecdotes. - The ceiling, by Lebrun, represents France 
dispensing universal peace and abundance. From this 
opens the Chambre a coucher de Marie Antoinette , oc¬ 
cupied successively by Maria Theresa, Queen of Louis XIV.,- 
Maria Leczinska, Queen of Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette (1.) 
The medallions of the ceiling are by Boucher ; those above the 
doors by Natoire and Delroy. Three large paintings will he 
remarked: the Marriage of Louis XIV. with Maria Theresa 
(1660), hy Lebrun; the Birth of the Due de Bourgogne (1682), 
byRigaud, and the marriage of the latter with Marie Adelaide, 
by Dieu. The series is continued in the following rooms. The 
Salon de la Heine was used for the Queen’s evening parties, 
which were at their highest splendour under Maria Theresa, 
Queen of Louis XIV. The ceiling, representing Mercury, is hy 
Michael Corneille. In the Salon du Grand Couvert de la Heine, 
Louis XIV., during the life-time of his consort, frequently dined. 
Maria Leczinska always dined here in public, and also Marie 
Antoinette while Daupliiness. The present ceiling is remark¬ 
able for a fine painting by Paul Veronese, St. Mark crowning 
the Theological Virtues, brought by Napoleon from Venice. The 
ceiling of the following Salle des Valets de pied de la Heine, 
is painted by Coypel, with Jupiter in his car, and was the 
scene of the slaughter of the Queen’s guards. Here is a marble 
statue of Louis XV. in his youth, by Cortot; a full-length 
portrait of Marie Adelaide of Savoy, and marble busts of 
Louis XVI., Louis XV., Marie Antoinette, Marie Leczinska, 
Louis the Dauphin, Marie Adelaide, and Madame Elisabeth, 

The Queen’s state apartments terminate here at the Esca- 
lier de Marbre, which is one of the finest in France for the 
richness and variety of its marbles. Immediately leading 
from them is the Grande Salle des Gardes, now called the 
Salle du Sacre, from its containing David’s famous picture of 
the Coronation of Napoleon. (2) Opposite is his Distribution 

(1) Here the Duchess of Bourgoene gave birth to Louis XV., and 
Marie Antoinette to the Duchess d’Angouleme; here, too, the un¬ 
fortunate Queen was awakened from her bed on the fatal night of 
the 5th and 6th of October, 1789, and forced to escape by the small 
door to the left, leading hy a passage to the OEil de Boeuf, from 
the mob which had burst into the palace. 

(2) The artist received 100,000 fr. for this fine painting, and 
75^000 fr. for the “ Distribution of the Eagles to the Legions.” A 
second picture of the Coronation, also by David, was lately sold 
in Paris for less than 3000 fr. 


560, ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

ot Uie Eagles to the Legions, and facing the windows, the 
battle of Aboukir, by Gros. Here also are paintings of Napo¬ 
leon, as General and as Emperor. The ceiling, by Callet, 
is allegorical of the 18th Brumaire. Two small rooms com¬ 
pleting the remainder of this wing formed the Chapel of the 
(Chateau of Louis XIII.; they were inhabited by Louis de Bour- 
ibon, Count de Clermont, under Louis XV., and now contain 
pictures illustrative of the campaigns of 1793 and the two suc¬ 
ceeding years. Next follows a saloon, formerly called the 
Salle des Cent Suisses, and now Salle de 1792. This is 
one of the most interesting apartments of the palace, contain¬ 
ing portraits of all the great military characters of the revo¬ 
lution of 17 89, and many in duplicate, representing them as 
in 1792, and as they became under the empire. Napoleon is 
seen as lieutenant-colonel, in 1792, and as Emperor, in 1806;— 
Marshal Lannes as sub-lieutenant, in 1792, and Duke de Mon¬ 
tebello, in 1804;—Marshal Soult as sergeant, in 1792, and 
Duke de Dalmatie, in 1804;—Murat as sub-lieutenant, in 
1792, and King of Naples, in 1808;—Marshal Bernadotte, the 
late King of Sweden, as lieutenant, in 1792, and Prince of Pon- 
tecorvo, in 1804;—Louis Philippe, as lieutenant-general, in 
1792, and King in 1830. There are also valuable portraits 
of Lafayette, Dumouriez, Kellermann, and most of the marshals 
<of Napoleon. A few stairs in a corner of this room, to the 
left on entering, lead to a series of 8 rooms, called from their 
contents the Galerie des Gouaches et Aquarelles des Campagnes 
de 1796 a 1814. In this division of the palace are the old 
apartments of Cardinal Fleury, minister to Louis XV. 

The upper story of the centre, like the corresponding one in 
each of the wings, was occupied in the palmy days of Versailles 
by the nobles officially attached to the court. The apartments 
contained in it are now appropriated to the general service of 
the palace, and to part of the museum of portraits. 

From the Salle de 17 92 the visitor reaches the Escalier des 
Princes, adorned with coupled Composite pilasters, a highly 
sculptured ceiling, numerous bas-reliefs, and marble statues 
of Louis XIV., Louis Pbilippe, and Napoleon I. It opens 
into the 

Southern Wing .—This part of the Palace, being appropriated 
to the children and immediate family of the monarch, was 
called Aile des Princes. (1) On descending the Escalier des 
Princes, the visitor finds a vestibule on the first story adorned 

(I) The internal arrangements of this wing having been en¬ 
tirely changed, it will be sufficient brietly to enumerate the 
Princes who inhabited it. The southern end of the first floor 
was appropriated, to the grandchildren of Louis XIV., with F£ne- 





VERSAILLES. 567 

with the busts of Mansard, Le Notre, Malesherbes, etc., which 
gives access to the 

Galerie de VEmpire, a suite of 14 rooms, including a vesti¬ 
bule about half-way, called Salle Napoleon, which contains a 
series of busts and statues of the Bonaparte family. The other 
rooms all contain upw ards of 300 pictures of the martial ex¬ 
ploits of the eventful times of Napoleon I., from 1790 to 1810. 
The last room is adorned in the centre with a triumphal co¬ 
lumn entirely of Sevres porcelain, surmounted by a figure of 
Victory, and adorned with paintings representing scenes of the 
first Empire, and five beautiful vases of Sevres porcelain with 
bas-reliefs, illustrative of several scenes of the Empire. Around 
are paintings representing the Battle of Marengo, the Passage 
of the Great St. Bernard, etc. Behind this suite runs a gal¬ 
lery, 327 feet long, filled with busts and statues of celebrated 
generals between 1790 and 1815. At the entrance of this 
gallery, adjoining the Escalier des Princes, is a beautiful 
colossal marble statue of Gen. Ilochc, by Milhomme. 

Close to this statue, a staircase descends to the Galerie des 
Marines, consisting of five rooms, and another collection of 
portraits in four rooms. The same staircase leads down to the 
Galerie des Tombeaux , a collection of plaster models taken 
from the monuments of celebrated personages. Here a few 
steps conduct the visitor down to six vaulted rooms, below 
the level of the Cour de Marbre, in which the above series is 
continued, and fine models are seen of Louis XVI., Louis XV) II., 
Charles X., etc. The visitor may now return by the same w ay 
to the Escalier des Princes, and, re-ascending it, enter the 

Grande Galerie des Batailles, which includes the greater 
part of the attic, and constitutes an immense gallery, 393 
feet in length, 42 in breadth, and the same in height. 
Coupled columns at each extremity and in the centre, sup¬ 
porting intermediate arches, relieve the monotony of so great 
a length; the roof, vaulted like the Galerie des Glaces, is 
lighted by sky-fights, and richly ornamented with gilded 

Ion as their preceptor; the Duke of Orleans,brother of Louis XIV., 
and the Duke de Chartres, afterwards Regent, occupied the re¬ 
mainder. At a later period it was inhabited by the Count d’ Artois, 
afterwards Charles X. ; the Duke de Penthievre, and oilier Princes 
of the blood royal. At the northern extremity of the wing were 
the apartments of the Duke of Orleans, Philippe Egalil<5,and under 
them, where Ihe arcade now leads into the garden, w as a small the¬ 
atre, in which Lulli and Quinault often charmed the ears of Ihe 
court. On Ihe ground-lloor, the Princess de Lamballe, the Dau¬ 
phin, son of Louis XVI., his sister, the Duchess d’Angouleme, 
and the Count de Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII., were suc¬ 
cessively lodged. 


568 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

compartments. On the walls are pictures of large dimen¬ 
sions, representing great military triumphs, commencing 
with the battle of Tolbiac, won by Clovis in 496, painted 
by Ary Scheffer, and ending with that of Wagram, 9th July, 
1809, by Horace Vernet. Among the paintings here, the 
Battle of Fontenoy, by the same, particularly attracted Queen 
Victoria’s attention during her visit. The effect of this gal¬ 
lery is exceedingly imposing. The works of Gerard, Eu¬ 
gene Delacroix, and Couder cannot fail to attract attention. 
Around are busts .of eminent generals on pedestals; and in 
the embrasures of the windows are the names of the Princes, 
admirals, marshals of France, Sec., who have died in battle, 
inscribed on black marble. Next to this is the Salle de 1830, 
devoted to pictures recording the principal events of that 
revolution, viz. : Louis Philippe on the Place de Greve; 
Declaration of the Deputies, the King’s oath to the Charter, 
and the Distribution of Standards to the National Guards. (1) 
The ceiling is painted by Picot, with a group of Justice, 
Truth, and Fortitude. Behind these rooms runs a gallery 327 
feet long, filled with statues and busts of celebrated per¬ 
sonages from 1300 to 1792, called the Galerie de Louis XIV. 

By a staircase at the beginning of this gallery, the visitor ascends 
to the Attique du Midi, previous to which, he will remark 
paintings opposite the landing-place, representing the Death of 
Louis XIII., by Decaisne, and Leo XII. carried in procession, 
by Horace Vernet. The attic itself consists of five rooms, filled 
with historical portraits, the greater part of which relate to 
personages anterior to the first revolution, and are of the time. 
In the 4th room are portraits of Presidents Jackson and Polk, 
of Daniel Webster, Henry Clay, Washington, and George HI., 
and, in the last room, portraits of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, 
George IV., the Duke of Kent, and the Duke of York; and also 
of Pitt and Fox, Locke and Newton. Next follows a room partly 
bisected by a central partition, and now called the Salon des 
portraits de la Fawille Imperiale. Here may be seen the 
portraits of the present Emperor when a child and a youth ; 
of Prince Murat, Josephine, Joseph, etc. In a smaller 
room are those of Louis XVIII., Charles X., and the Duke 
d’Angouleme. In a small cabinet annexed is a series of 
full-length miniature portraits, and an interview of Louis 
XVIII. and the Duchess of Berri, by Lecomte. Next comes 
the interior of the turret, already mentioned, overlooking 
the Cour de Marbre, containing a bust of Louis XIII., and 
leading to the Escalier de Marbre, above alluded to, which 
we descend along its whole length. In a niche on a landing- 

(1) These were removed in is48, but have been since replaced. 








VERSAILLES. 569 

place of this most splendid staircase is a statue of Henry IV. 
in his youth, by Bosio, a copy of those seen in the Louvre and 
Hotel de Ville (see p. 168, 287.) The vestibule below con¬ 
tains busts of Boileau, Santeuil, Claude Perrault, Lebrun, Man¬ 
sart, Colbert, Racine, Rotrou, and other eminent men. To 
our left is a second vestibule, containing busts and statues of 
Voltaire, Montaigne, Moliere, Malherbe, etc. Next follows 
the suite of the 

Amiraux et Marechaux de France , consisting of 14 rooms, 
besides two more, devoted to portraits of GxfCrriers Celebres, 
all on the centre ground-floor. Here we find the portraits of 
the Grand Admirals, Constables, and Marshals of France. (1) 
One of these rooms in the middle is called the Galerie de Louis 

XIII. , behind which were the bathing-rooms of Marie Antoi¬ 
nette, now changed into the 

Galerie des Rois de France, containing the portraits of the 
71 Kings of France, from Pharamond down to Louis Phi¬ 
lippe. Next follow four rooms with views of royal residences, 
then a vestibule, with statues of Bossuet, d’Aguesseau, l’Hd- 
pital, and Fenelon, and, lastly, three rooms containing bird’s- 
eye views of the Siege of La Rochelle, Nimes. etc. 

Returning hence to the Galerie de Louis XIII., we pass 
through the remaining six rooms of the Salles des Marechaux. 
In the last room but one we see full-length portraits of Marshal 
St. Arnaud, Admiral Bruat, Marshals Vaillant, Magnan, and 
Baraguay d Hilliers. The last room contains portraits of cele¬ 
brated warriors, such as Dunois, Bayard, etc. 

From this we reach the elegant Escalier des Ambassadeurs, 
near the vestibule of the Chapel; this was built by Louis 
Philippe. Four small courts, two on either side, are com¬ 
prised within the buildings of this central pile; adjoining that 

(1) These apartments, on the south side of the palace towards 
the garden, were occupied by the Grand Dauphin, son of Louis 

XIV. , until his death, in 1711; afterwards, by the Duke de 
Berri, grandson of that monarch ; by Louis the Dauphin, son of 
Louis XV., and father of Louis XVI.; by Louis XVI. and Marie 
Antoinette; and Louis XVIII. The centre of the western front 
was a vestibule in the time of Louis XIV., by which egress was 
afforded to the gardens ; it was afterwards converted into apart¬ 
ments by Louis XV., and now forms the beautiful gallery of 
Louis XIII. The apartments on the northern side were those of 
the amiable Count and Countess de Toulouse under Louis XIV., 
and afterwards of the Princesses, daughters of Louis XV. The 
last rooms of this suite, near the vestibule of the chapel, were suc¬ 
cessively tenanted by Madame de Montespan, under Louis XIV., 
and Madame de Pompadour, under his successor. The rooms 
on this floor had been spoiled by alterations made under Louis 

XV. ; Louis Philippe restored them to their original state. 


570 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

to the north was a magnificent vestibule and staircase of marble 
leading to the state apartments, in the time of Louis XIV. This 
was taken down by his successor, but the corresponding Esca¬ 
lier de Marbre, on the southern side, with its vestibule, was 
suffered to remain. 

The Gardens and Park. —The former no longer contain the 
trees planted by Louis XIV.; they were destroyed in 1775, by 
order of Louis XVI., and the garden was replanted. The 
stranger is astonished not less by the variety and effect of the 
plantations and water than by the immense number and beauty 
of the statues, groups, and vases.—The Terrasse du Chateau 
has four fine bronze statues, after the antique, by the Kellers, 
namely Silenus, Antinous, Apollo, and Bacchus. At the angles 
are two beautiful vases in white marble, ornamented with bas- 
reliefs.—The Parterre d’Eau contains two oblong basins, upon 
the borders of which repose twenty-four magnificent groups, 
in bronze, viz., eight nymphs, eight groups of children, and the 
four principal rivers of France with their tributaries, namely, 
the Garonne and Dordogne, the Seine and Marne, the Rhone 
and Saone, and the Loire and Loiret. The groups of children 
were cast by Aubry and Roger, and the other figures by the 
Kellers. From the centre of each basin rise jets d’eau, in the 
shape of a basket. At the ends of the terrace, opposite the 
palace, are two fountains, adorned with groups of animals in 
bronze, cast by Keller.—The Parterre du Midi ex tends in front 
of the southern wing of the palace, and contains two circular 
basins of white marble, surrounded by grass-plots. This ter¬ 
race is separated from the Parterre d’Eau by a parapet level 
with the latter, upon which are placed twelve vases in bronze, 
cast by Duval. In the centre is a flight of white marble steps, 
ornamented on each side by a sphinx in white marble, sur¬ 
mounted by a child in bronze.—The side nearest the palace 
displays a bronze statue of Napoleon.—Here a court below the 
level of the terrace, called La Petite Orangcric, is adorned 
with the fine bronze equestrian statue of the lamented Duke 
of Orleans, which stood in the centre of the court of the Louvre, 
and was taken down by order of the Provisional Government. 
To the right of this is the Orangerie , situated below the Par¬ 
terre du Midi, bounded on each side by a flight of lo3 steps, 
leading to an iron gate on the road to Brest. The piers of 
these gates are crowned by groups in stone, and the green¬ 
houses, of Tuscan architecture, constructed by Mansard, extend 
on three sides. Here the orange and pomegranate-trees, 6cc., 
are preserved during winter, and in summer are removed to 
the walks of the Orangery, and other parts of the garden, (l) 

(i) One of the orange-trees possesses an historical character. It 



VERSAILLES. 571 

In the midst of the principal green-house, opposite the en¬ 
trance, is a colossal statue of Louis XIV., by Desjardins. The 
ground in front of the Orangery is divided into tlower-beds, 
with a basin and fountain in the centre.—The Parterre du 
Nord, approached by a flight of steps in white marble, is in 
front of the northern wing of the palace, and is separated from 
the Parterre d’Eau by a wall crowned with 14 bronze vases, 
cast by Duval. At the angles near the steps are two fine vases 
of Egyptian marble, by Rousseau, and on the sides of the steps 
two statues copied from the antique, the one the Arrotino, cast 
by Fognini, the other, Venus, by Coysevox. This terrace is 
laid out in flower-beds, and ornamented with the two basins 
des Couronnes and that de Ja Pyramide. The former derive 
their name from two groups of Tritons and Syrens supporting 
crowns of laurel, from the midst of which issue columns of 
water. The bassin de la Pyramide consists of four round 
basins rising one above another in a pyramidal form. The 
figures are in lead ; those of the first two basins are by 
Lehongre, and those of the third by Girardon. Along the 
shrubbery which bounds this parterre on the north are eight 
statues in white marble. Below the bassin de la Pyra¬ 
mide are the Balks of Diana, a small square basin, of which 
one side is ornamented with bas-reliefs in lead, by Girardon, 
representing, in the centre, the nymphs of Diana at the bath, 
and at each extremity a river.—The Allee d’Eau, in front of 
the baths of Diana, leads to the two basins du Dragon, and de 
Neptune, between two long and narrow grass-plots, in each 
of which are seven groups of children in bronze, in the midst 
of white marble basins separated by yew-trees. Each group 
forms a sort of tripod supporting a second basin of Languedoc 
marble, from the centre of which the water rises and overflows 
into the basin below. On the sides of the avenue lie the groves 
called Bosquet de l’Arc de Triomphe and des Trois Couronnes, 
which possessed many works of art, but retain little of their 
ancient magnificence. At the extremity of the avenue is a 
semicircle formed by a thick hedge, in front of which are eight 
groups similar to those in the avenue, forming a total number 
of 22.—The Bassin du Dragon derives its name from the dra¬ 
gon or serpent Python, surrounded by four dolphins and a 
similar number of swans. The only part that now remains is 

was contemporary with Francois I., and formed part of the con¬ 
fiscated property of the Connetable de Bourbon, whence it is called 
le Grand Bourbon. It was produced from seeds sown in 1421, 
by Leonora of Castille, wife of Charles 111., King of Navarre, and 
after flourishing for 437 years, docs not seem to have approached 
the end of its long career. Its branches are now encircled by 
iron rings to support their weight. 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


572 

the grand jet d’eau, that issues from the dragon’s mouth.— 
The Bassin de Neptune is the most splendid of all the foun¬ 
tains at Versailles. Upon the upper border stand 22 large 
vases in lead, ornamented with bas-reliefs. Against the side 
are three inunense groups in lead. That in the centre, by 
Adam senior, represents Neptune and Amphitrite seated in a 
vast shell, and accompanied by nymphs, tritons, and sea- 
monsters. The group on the east is Proteus, by Bouchardon; 
and that on the west, Ocean resting upon a sea-unicorn, by 
Lemoine. At the angles two colossal dragons bearing Cupids, 
by Bouchardon, stand upon pedestals. From these live 
groups issues a deluge of water, augmented hy jets d’eau rising 
from different parts of the basin, and from the vases. From 
the Bassin de Neptune we return to the Parterre d’Eau by the 
avenue des Trois Fontaines and des Ifs, which are in the same 
line. The former is without ornament; the latter contains 14 
white marble vases and 5 statues.—The Parterre de Latone 
lies between the Parterre d’Eau and the Alice du Tapis Vert. 
On the right and left are declivities which form a bending road, 
skirted by yew-trees and bounded by a thick hedge, along which 
are ranged statues and groups in marble. Between the two 
declivities just described, is a magnificent flight of steps leading 
from the Parterre d’Eau to that de Latone, at the top of which 
are two vases of white marble exhibiting the sun, the emblem 
of Louis XIV. These steps lead to a semicircular terrace in 
advance of the Bassin de Latone, and descend, by two smaller 
flights, to a lower terrace on which this elegant basin is si¬ 
tuated. These steps are ornamented with 12 beautiful vases, 
enriched with bas-reliefs. The Bassin de Latone presents five 
circular basins which rise one above another in the form of a 
pyramid, surmounted by a group of Latona with Apollo and 
Diana, by Marsy. The goddess implores the vengeance of Ju¬ 
piter against the peasants of Libya, who refused her water, 
and the peasants, already metamorphosed, some half, and 
others entirely, into frogs or tortoises, are placed on the edge 
of the different tablets, and throw forth water upon Latona in 
every direction, thus forming liquid arches of the most beauti¬ 
ful effect. The tablets are of red marble, the group of white 
marble, and the frogs and tortoises of lead. On each side of 
the pyramid, a column of water rises 30 feet and falls into the 
basin. Beyond are two flower-gardens, each with a fountain 
adorned with figures to correspond with that of Latona.— 
The Allee du Tapis Vert derives its name from a lawn which 
extends the whole length from the Parterre de Latone to the 
Bassin d’Apollon. It is ornamented with 12 statues and 12 
beautiful vases in white marble,—The Bassin d’Apollon, which. 










VERSAILLES* 573 

except that of Neptiine, is the largest in the park, is situated 
at the extremity of the Allee du Tapis Vert. The God of Day 
is seen issuing from the waters in a chariot drawn by four 
horses, and surrounded by tritons, dolphins, and sea-monsters. 
Beyond is the grand canal, extending as far as St. Cyr (see 
p. 53G), 186 feet wide by 4,674 in length, with two cross 
branches measuring together 3,000 feet in length. (1) We now 
return towards the palace, taking the avenues on the right, 
and come to the Bassins de I’lHcer et de VAutomne. That of 
Winter represents Saturn surrounded by children, who play 
among fish, crabs, and shells. This group is by Girardon. 
That of Autumn, by Marsy, represents Bacchus reclining upon 
grapes, and surrounded by infant satyrs.—The Jardin du Roi , 
near the Bassin d’Hiver, on the right, is laid out with much 
taste and judgment .—In front of the entrance lies the Bassin 
du Miroir ; two columns of water rise from the midst. The 
Bosquet de la Rcine is a delightful enclosed grove, which can 
only be entered with a cicerone of the park, and contains a 
great number of foreign trees and plants. In the centre is a 
superb granite vase and four antique vessels in bronze.—The 
Bosquet de la Salle de Bal, situated near the foregoing, is thus 
called from balls formerly given there by the court in summer. 
—The Quinconcedu Midi, near the Salle de Bal, to the north¬ 
west, is ornamented with eight termini, of which four stand 
round a grass-plot in the centre, and the other four beneath 
the chesnut trees.—The Bosquet de la Colonnade, at a short 
distance from the Quinconce, is an enclosed grove, containing 
a magnificent rotunda, composed of 32 marble columns and 
pilasters of the Ionic order, united by arches supporting a 
cornice with white marble vases. Under each arcade are 
marble basins with fountains, and in the middle is a fine group 
of the Rape of, Proserpine, by Girardon.— Bassin du Prin- 
temps et de I’Ete. We now cross the Allee du Tapis Vert, 
and direct our course through the avenues on the side opposite. 
The fountains of Spring and Summer are situated in the first 
long avenue parallel to the Tapis Vert. Spring is represented 
by Flora; before her is a basket of flowers, and around are 
children who hold garlands and wreaths. Summer appears 
under the figure of Ceres, having a sickle in her hand, reclining 
among wheat sheaves, and encircled by children.—The Bosquet 
des Ddmes derives its name from two small rotundas crowned 
with domes, which were demolished in 1820. In the centre 
is an octagonal basin surrounded by a balustrade in marble. 
In the top of the balustrade is a small channel, in which water 

(i) Promenades in boats may be enjoyed on this canal in sum¬ 
mer, at io sous an hour per person, or 3fr. fora party. 


574 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

flows and escapes from distance to distance from shells. In 
the centre an immense column of water rises to the height of 
70 feet. Above and around is a terrace, bounded by a second 
balustrade of marble, of which the plinth and pilasters are 
covered with 44 bas-reliefs of ancient and modern arms used 
by the different nations of Europe, executed by Girardon, Ma- 
zaline, and Guerin. In this enclosure are eight statues of white 
marble.— Bassin d’Encelade . A triangular space opposite the 
Bosquet des Domes contains this fountain, which is circular and 
surrounded by trees. The centre is occupied by a mass of rocks, 
beneath which Enceladus the Giant is struggling for liberty, 
and still endeavouring to hurl rocks at heaven. The figure, 
from whose mouth a column of water rises to the height of GO 
feet, was executed by Marsy. Water also issues from his hand 
and from parts of the rocks.—The Quinconce du Nord cor¬ 
responds with that of the south, and is adorned with a large 
vase and eight termini in white marble.— Bosquet des Bains 
d’Apollon. Upon leaving the Quinconce by the principal ave¬ 
nue to the east, we see on the left an iron gate which leads to 
an agreeable enclosed grove, in the midst of which is an enor¬ 
mous rock, of the most picturesque form. Here a grotto leads to 
the palace of Tethys, whose nymphs are serving Apollo at the 
moment when he comes to repose in the arms of the goddess. 
Two are preparing to bathe his feet, a third is pouring water 
into a basin; and three others stand behind, one of whom braids 
his hair, and two others hold vessels with perfumes. Apollo 
and the first three nymphs are chefs-d’oeuvre of Girardon; the 
three others are by Regnaudin. On the right and left of this 
magnificent group are two others, the former by Guerin, the 
latter by Marsy, representing the horses of the Sun watered by 
tritons. These three groups in white marble form the most 
perfect ensemble of sculpture at Versail les. Sheets and torrents 
of water, which escape from different parts of the rock and 
form a lake at its foot, add to the effect of the scene. This 
fountain is said to have cost 1,500,000 fr.—In descending this 
part of the garden, towards the west, we find the Rond Vert , 
a circular bowling-green, surrounded by a hedge, in which 
are four verdant niches, with statues after the antique.—The 
Bassin des Enfants, placed at the fourth angle of the Rond 
Vert, is decorated with a group of six children, in lead, play¬ 
ing in a small island, in the centre. Two others are swimming 
in the water, while from the midst of the island a column of 
water rises 48 feet.—Continuing from east to west, we enter 
the Salle de VEtoile, so called from its three avenues, crossing 
each other.— Bassin de VObelisque. The avenue that traverses 
the itoile leads to this fountain. The water issues from reeds 


VERSAILLES. 575 

round a column of water in the centre, and falls into an upper 
basin, from which it descends into another by a number of 
steps forming as many cascades. The fountains are distin¬ 
guished by the names of the Grandes and the Petites Eaux . 
The latter play every other Sunday in summer, but the former 
only on great occasions, always announced in Galignanis Mes¬ 
senger and in the French journals. 

The Grandes Eaux present one of the finest sights imagin¬ 
able, and cost from 8 to 10,000 fr. every time they play^(l) 
As they do not all play at once, the visitor can follow them from 
basin to basin up to that of Neptune, which is always the last. 
On these occasions, the crowd attracted to Versailles is very 
great; but ample means of communication are afforded by the 
two railroads, and first-class places ( diligences ) may be secured 
beforehand both for going and returning. Visitors should 
not remain late, on account of the crowds at the railroads. 

Le Grand Trianon is a villa, at the extremity of the Park 
of Versailles, built by Louis XIV. for Mine, de Maintenon, 
after the designs of J. II. Mansard. It is in the Italian style, 
consisting of one story, and two wings, united by a long gal¬ 
lery pierced by seven arcades, and fronted with magnificent 
coupled Ionic columns and pilasters in Languedoc marble. 
The wings are ornamented in a similar manner. It is sepa¬ 
rated from the avenue leading to it by a fosse in masonry. The 
visitor is first introduced to the peristyle, adorned with coupled 
Ionic columns, which connects the two wings, and looks both 
into the garden and court (2.) This leads to a circular Corin¬ 
thian hall, called the Antichambre des Grands Appartements, 
adjoining which is the billiard-room, with portraits of Louis 
XV. and Marie Leczinskaof Poland in their youth, by Vanloo. 
Next is the Salon de Reception, containing several paintings 
and portraits by Vanloo and Coypel; then we enter the Salon 
Particulier and the Salle de Malachite, with a circular basin of 
malachite of extraordinary size, resting on a tripod of or-rnoulu, 
presented to Napoleon by the Emperor Alexander, on the occa¬ 
sion of the treaty of Tilsit. It likewise contains portraits of 
Louis XIV. and Louis XV., by Vanloo; of the Dauphin, by 
Natoire, and Louis XVI., by Callet. The Galerie du Palais, 
formerly the dining room of Louis Philippe, is entered next, 
consisting of a gallery 1G0 feet in length, and full of remark¬ 
able paintings by Roger, Thomas, Bidault, Johannot, Boucher, 

(1) 300,000 fr. were voted in 1850 for repairing the reservoirs 
and basins, which are now restored to all their former beauty. 

(2) The visitor must not expect to be led through the apart¬ 
ments exactly in the same order as they are described here, 
since this depends upon the caprice of the man who sliows^ them. 


676 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

&c. The centre is occupied by curious and costly tables in 
mosaic, with bronze statues, etc. In the Salon de Musique is 
some rich and curious porcelain, besides paintings of mytholo¬ 
gical subjects by Bon Boullongne, Goypel, Lafosse, etc. Next 
follows the chapel, constructed by Louis Philippe. The 
wainscoting is of oak; there are a few good paintings, 
and an admirable Assumption copied from Prudhon, in ena¬ 
mel, adorns the window. The late Marie d’Orleans, Duchess 
of Wurtemberg, was married in this chapel. The library, 
adorned with paintings by Boucher and Robert, and the 
apartments formerly reserved for the use of the Dukes of 
Orleans and Nemours, and before them by Napoleon I., (1) 
lead the visitor back to the billiard-room and peristyle already 
mentioned. Here begin the apartments which were occupied 
by the King and Queen. The Salon de la Reine contains two 
portraits more of Louis XV. and Marie Leczinska. The Ca¬ 
binet de la Reine leads to the Royal bed-room, most richly fur¬ 
nished and gilt. The bed is the same that was used by the 
Empress Josephine. The hangings and curtains of the alcove 
are of crimson velvet, and a gorgeous balustrade separates it 
from the chamber. Next comes the Salon des Glaces, an 
elegant apartment lit by four windows, and adorned with a 
profusion of mirrors ; it contains two excellent busts of the 
Emperor and Empress. This suite is closed by the Cabinet de 
Travail du Roi, and his private library, with some minor 
apartments in which four cradles, made for different heirs to 
the French throne, have been recently placed. The decora¬ 
tions of these apartments are richer than those of the first suite, 
which are white and gold. The rooms formerly inhabited 
by Madame Adelaide are no longer shown, being completely 
unfurnished. The garden of the Grand Trianon is laid out 
in a style similar to that of Versailles, and contains several 
fine fountains, the chief of which is the cascade, in Carrara 
marble. There are many excellent pieces of sculpture in va¬ 
rious parts, and among them two portraits of Louis XV. and 
Maria Leczinska, in allegorical groups, by Coustou. The 
Empress has now organised a historical gallery here. The 
grounds m the rear are laid out in groves cut into labyrinths. 
The Grand Trianon was always a favourite residence of Louis 
XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI.; Napoleon also frequently 
resided in it, and made a direct road from thence to St. Cloud. 
The servants who show these apartments communicate many 
interesting historical details, partly from their own experience, 

( 1 ) Two of these rooms, including a splendid bed-chamber, 
‘ were intended for Her Majesty Queen Victoria, on the occasion of 
her expected visit in Louis Philippe’s time. 



VERSAILLES. 577 

and partly derived from local tradition. Visible daily, Mon¬ 
days excepted, from 11 to 5 in summer, and 11 to 4 in winter, 
with tickets, to be applied for by writing to M. [le General 
liolin, aux Tuileries. 

On leaving this, the visitor will find, in an avenue to the 
right, a building where the State Carriages are kept. These 
are visible for a small fee. On entering we see seven 
carriages, arranged in two rows of three each, with one, 
the most splendid of all, between. It was built in 1825 
for the, coronation of Charles X., and has been re-gilt 
and newly decorated since 1853 for the use of the pre¬ 
sent Emperor. It is lined inside with crimson velvet embroi¬ 
dered in gold ; the exterior displays a profusion of tasteful 
carving and richness of decoration not to be surpassed. The 
furthermost of the right-hand row was used for the baptism of 
the King of Rome, that of the Due de Bordeaux, the marriage 
of the present Empress, and the baptism of the Prince Imperial 
on the 14th of June, 1856. The carriage next to it was used 
by Napoleon I. when elected First Consul; the remaining four 
all belonged to Napoleon I. To the right on entering is the 
sedan-chair of Marie Antoinette ; to the left, that of Maria Lec- 
zinska. The presses against the lateral walls contain sets of 
harness of the time of Napoleon I. There are also four sledges 
which belonged to Louis XIV. A curious little Turkish car 
will be seen here, constructed for the Sultan Abdul-Medjid 
when a child. M. Thouvenel, during his embassy at Con¬ 
stantinople, sent it over for the Prince Imperial. It was 
drawn by goats, but the prince, who possessed a pair of 
ponies, soon got tired of it, and it has now been deposited here. 

The visitor, continuing along same avenue, will reach the 

Petit Trianon, situated at one extremity of the garden of 
the Grand Trianon. It forms a pavilion 7 2 feet square, and 
consists of a ground floor and two stories. The first floor 
consists of an antechamber, a dining-room (in which are the 
Seasons, by Dejuinne), a billiard-room, drawing-room (with 
a bust of Louis XVI.; the subjects over the doors by Watteau), 
a boudoir, a bed-room hung with blue silk, where may be 
remarked two ostrich’s eggs adorned with miniatures by Bou¬ 
cher, and, lastly, the cabinet de toilette, containing a time¬ 
piece of Louis XV. (t) The Duchess of Orleans had the use of this 

(l) This mansion was built for Madame du Barry by Louis 
XV., who inhabited it when attacked by the contagious disease of 
which he died. Louis XVI. presented it to the queen, under 
whose direction the gardens were laid out. Queen Victoria visited 
both the Trianons on the 2 tst of Aug., 1855, and partook of a 
splendid lunch at the Swiss village or Hameau. 


37 


578 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

villa. The garden is laid out a VAnglaise; it has a fine piece 
of water, on the hanks of which is a Swiss village, erected by 
Marie Antoinette. In another part of the garden is a small 
theatre, formerly used by the court, and which should be par¬ 
ticularly asked for by the visitor. 

The gardens of the Petit Trianon are visible daily, till dusk. 
To visit the palace, seethe Grand Trianon, p 577. 

The Town of Versailles is bisected by the A venue de Paris , 
which divides it into theQuartier of Notre Dame, to the north, 
and of St. Louis to the south. On proceeding down the rue 
Hoche the visitor will remark the Doric facade of the Pro¬ 
testant church, where service is performed by a clergyman of 
the Church of England, on Sundays at half-past one. Farther 
on is the Place Hoche, in which stands a fine bronze statue 
of General Hoche, a native of the town, who distinguished 
himself in the troubles of La Vendee. The Church of Notre 
Dame, built by Mansard in 1684, fronts the rue Hoche. Its 
facade is Doric and Ionic. The interior is Doric, and cruci¬ 
form, with aisles, and lateral chapels, in one of which is a 
monument of St. Remy baptizing King Clovis. In a chapel 
in the opposite aisle is a fine marble monument to the Comte 
de Vergennes, a distinguished diplomatist under Louis XVI. In 
the rue Duplesssis, parallel to the rue Hoche, at the corner of 
the Boulevard de la Reine, is the railway station of the Right 
Bank (Rive Droite). Opposite stands the hospital, in which 
the Chapel of St. Paul deserves attention. 

The Lycee Imperial stands in the Route de St. Cloud. 
It was erected in 17 GG by Maria Leczinska; it has a good Ca¬ 
binet of Natural History, and about 500 pupils. On this side 
is also a villa formerly belonging to Madame Elizabeth, sister 
of Louis XVI., and a small theatre adjoining the palace. 
Nearly opposite to the theatre, No. 14, is a house with an 
inscription stating that it once was the abode of Labruyere, 
and that he died there in 1696. In the Quartier St. Louis, 
the Route de Sceaux is crossed by the Avenue de la Mairie, 
where the railway station of the left bank (Rive Gauche) 
is situated. Distinct from this is the Western railway station, 
which stands opposite the rue Horace Vernet; and outside the 
adjoining barrier, is the Bois de la Fontaine des Nouettes, 
with shady walks. The Bois de Satory, outside the Barriere 
St. Martin, is also a charming public walk, skirting the 
Plaine de Satory, a plateau where races take place in June. 

At the intersection of the rue Royale and rue d’Anjou 
is a monument to the Abbe de l’Epee, the benefactor of the 
deaf and dumb. The rue d’Anjou leads to the Cathedral of 
St, Louis, built by the last of the Mansards in 1743, of Doric 


VERSAILLES. 579 

and Corinthian architecture. The interior is cruciform, with 
a nave, and aisles surrounding both nave and choir. In the 
third chapel to the right on entering there is a splendid 
marble group, by Pradier, representing Religion supporting 
the Due de Berry in his last moments, when struck by the 
hand of the assassin Louvel. The pedestal is charged with 
bas-reliefs, and the motto “ Grace pour rhomme,” the last 
words the Duke had spoken. This monument was erected 
to his memory by the town of Versailles, his birth-place. 

In the transept and chapels there are an Adoration of the 
Shepherds, by Restout; a St. John the Baptist, by Latreille; 
St. Louis, by Lemoine ; the Virgin in the Temple, by Ver¬ 
mont; Christ walking on the waves, by Fauchet; St. Vincent 
de Paule, by Heim; and the conversion of Clovis, by Delaval. 
Some of the confessionals are beautifully carved. The rue 
de l’Orangerie leads to the Grand Commun, already men¬ 
tioned (see p. 555), near which is the Public Library, in the 
building formerly occupied by the Foreign Office. It con¬ 
tains 00,000 volumes, and is open daily from 11 to 4, ex¬ 
cept Sundays. To the library is attached a small museum. 

In the rue du Jeu de Paume, is the famous Tennis-court, 
celebrated for the oath taken by the National Assembly, which 
was the signal of the first revolution, It is much frequented 
by amateurs, and is worthy of a visit, especially by good 
judges of the game. South of the town and the palace is 
a large sheet of water, called Piece cles Suisses, from its having 
been formed by the Swiss guards of Louis XIV. It is 2,100 
feet in length by 7 20 in breadth. To the east of this is 
the potager, or fruit and kitchen garden, of the palace, 28 
acres in extent, and formed into divisions by terraces and walls. 
Contiguous to the potager is the beautiful and picturesque Eng¬ 
lish garden of the Hotel de Tellier, formed by the Count de 
Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII., but now belonging to a 
private individual. A considerable number of foreigners, in¬ 
cluding many English families, have chosen Versailles for 
their residence. The air is salubrious, but colder than that 
of Paris. The streets are wide and clean, and in the sum¬ 
mer nothing can be more delightful than its numerous 
walks. It possesses a synagogue, a few manufactories, and 
has three annual fairs. Not far from Versailles, at about an 
hour’s drive along the Route de Chevreuse, are the remains 
of the once celebrated Abbey of Port-Royal drs Champs (1). 
Part of the buildings are still inhabited. The country around 
is extremely picturesque. The Emperor has a domain near 
(i) This abbey of Benedictine nuns first acquired some renown 
from a reform of the rules of the house, in consequence of some 


680 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

Versailles, called La Menagerie, which has now been specially 
devoted to the rearing of the best French breeds of saddle and 
carriage horses. It is under the direction of General Fleury. 
Fairs are moreover held at Versailles twice a year, in spring 
and autumn, for the sale of superior saddle and carriage 
horses. 

VINCENNES—A commune of some extent situated to the 
east of Paris, a mile and a half from the Place du Trone 
celebrated for its chateau and forest, which have existed from 
a very early date. It may be most conveniently reached by 
the new railway, Place de Bastille; or by the omnibus which 
starts from the square of the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers 
(Seep. 2 56.) In 1137 Louis le Jeune built a residence here, 
and more than a century later St. Louis frequently visited it* 
and administered justice under an oak in the forest. To com¬ 
memorate the spot where this tree stood, a stone pyramid has 
been erected in the centre of a circular rendez-vous de chasse. 
In 1183 Philip Augustus enclosed the forest with a wall, and 
enlarged the royal residence, where Louis le Hutin and Charles 
le Bel are said to have subsequently ended their days. Phi- 
lippede Valois having in 1333, demolished the ancientbuilding, 

1 aid the foundations of the present chateau. Its form is that 
of a parallelogram of 1,200 feet in length, and 67 2 in breadth 
and, independent of the Donjon, which is an interior fort 
or prison, was flanked with nine square towers, which all 
existed, though in a dilapidated condition, until 1818, when 
having become the chief arsenal of Paris, it was considered 
necessary to demolish them all, except one. The large rec- 
angular tower of the entrance, called Tour Principal, and 
115 feet high, now repaired, and the Donjon still remain 
intact. The whole fortress was enclosed by high loop-holed 
walls of prodigious strength (now replaced by bomb-proof 
casemated barracks), and surrounded by a ditch 4o feet deep 
and 80 in breadth. To the right stands the celebrated 
Donjon .—This very remarkable structure forms a square 
with four towers at its angles. There are four lofty stories 

alleged miraculous interference. In 1626 the number of its in¬ 
mates increased so considerably that a part of them had to he 
transferred to Paris, where a second convent of Port Royal was 
established near the Rue St. Jacques (see p. 135.) Celebrated 
literary characters, and even artists, soon resorted to the abbey 
to pass their lives there in retirement; among them were Le- 
maistre de Sacy, Nicole, Pascal, and Ph. de Champagne. The 
Jesuits, viewing the educational tendencies of the convent with 
distrust, obtained a decree for its suppression in no9, but the 
nuns had to be forced out by the military. 


VINCENNES. 581 

above the ground-floor, each composed of one spacious apart¬ 
ment in the centre 30 feet square, and four smaller rooms in 
the corner towers. All have vaulted roofs; that of the larger 
apartment produces a striking effect by the Gothic arch¬ 
work being supported by a column in the centre. The walls 
of this building are 17 feet in thickness and from the total 
absence of wood in its construction it is quite incombustible. 
The visitor will observe the immense thickness and solidity of 
the double doors sheathed with iron and fastened with strong 
bolts and locks, also the extreme narrowness of the winding 
stairs, which scarcely allow a person to pass another; 24 2 
steps lead to the platform, commanding a magnificent view 
of the forest and adjacent villages. In 1420 Henry V. of 
England, being proclaimed king of France, took up his resi¬ 
dence and died here, after a brief reign of two years. This 
fortress passed from the French to the English and vice versd 
several times. In 1431 Henry YI.of England, being crowned 
king of France, resided in the Donjon, but in the following 
year Jacques de Chabannes drove out the English, who re¬ 
took it in 1434, and retained it until the Duke of Bourbon 
obtained possession of it by the treachery of some of the 
Scottish Guards. Up to the time of Louis XI. the Donjon was 
a royal residence ; under his reign it became a state prison, 
and has continued so. State prisoners whose offences did not 
call for peculiar severity were confined in the towers at each 
angle, but the heart sickens at the tortures here inflicted on the 
unfortunate beings in the vaults below. The room where tor¬ 
tures were applied, called the Salle de la Question, is on the 
ground-floor, but in total darkness. Here is still seen a hole cut 
in the stone wall, just large enough to receive the form of a 
man, which was the bed of the victim; strong bolts in the wall 
that still remain, with heavy iron chains, secured him to the 
spot, and kept his limbs motionless during the application of 
the “ Question.’’ Many pages might be filled with the names 
of the prisoners sent here by lettres de cachet. (1) 

(l) The following is a list of the principal prisoners confined 
here, in chronological order :—1 34 5, Enguerrand de Marigny, 
Superintendent of Finances under Louis X.—1 57 4, Henry IV., 
then King of Navarre, and the Due d’Alencon.— 1 6 1 7, the Prince 
of Conde.—4 626, Marshal d’Ornano, the natural son of Henry IV.; 
Marie Louise de Gonzague, daughter of the Dube de Nevers.— 
1643, the Due de Beaufort.—-4650, the Princes of Conde and 
Conti, and the Due de Longueville.— 1652, Cardinal de Retz.— 
4 661, Nicolas Fouquet.—1717, the Marquises de Chatillon, dePo- 
llgnac, de Clermont.—l748, Prince Edvard, the eldest son of the 
Pretender, pi evious to his being expelled from Ihe kingdom for 
plotting against the English Government.—1777, the Comte de 






582 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

La Sainte Chapelle or church of the fort, a fine specimen 
of the 16th century, and one of the latest of the pointed style 
in France, stands opposite. It has a square buttressed tower 
to the north, with an octangular turret at one of its corners, 
reaching to the bottom, and crowned with a spire surmounted 
by a crescent, the emblem of Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of 
Ilenry II. This emblem was formerly repeated on all the spires 
and pinnacles, instead of the cross. The front, which has now 
been completely repaired, consists of a gable decorated with 
splendid tracery, and flanked with two crocketed spires. The 
interior strongly reminds one of the style of the Sainte Cha¬ 
pelle, and consists of a single nave. It is remarkable for its 
stained glass windows, executed by Jean Cousin, in which, as 
well as on the ceiling, the device of Henry II., the letter H, and 
the crescent are interlaced. The infatuated monarch also had 
Diane’s portrait painted in one of the windows, perfectly naked, 
in the midst of celestial beings; it is said to be a faithful like¬ 
ness. It is on the window to the left, and the figure may be 
easily distinguished at the bottom of the tableau, by the blue 
ribbons in her hair. The altar-table, of white marble, is 
Gothic, and was a gift of Louis XVIII. Under it there is a 
fine model of the Cathedral ot Basle. This church contains a 
monument to the unfortunate Duke d'Enghien, who was shot 
here March 20th, 1804. The Prince was led down to the 
ditch at the south-east angle of the fortress, where, his 
grave being already dug, he was executed. (1) His remains 
are contained in a bronze sarcophagus; above is a statue of the 
duke supported by Religion ; below is France in tears for her 
loss, and a figure of Vengeance invoking divine justice. 

On the right and left sides of the court are tw r o large 
buildings, commenced by order of Marie de Medicis, and 
finished in the early part of the reign of I ouis XIV., which 
were splendidly fitted up for the residence of the royal 
family. A drawbridge across the ditch, at the back of the 
Pavilion du Roi, gave access to beautiful and extensive gar¬ 
dens ornamented with statues and fountains. Here Louis XIV. 
took up his residence previous to the construction of Ver¬ 
sailles, and here in these gardens, whilst listening in private to 
the conversation of some ladies in an alcove, he discovered the 
secret of the tender passion of Mile, de la Valliere for him. 

Mirabeau.— i 8o 4, the Due d’Enghien.— 1811 , the Bishops of Gaud, 
Tournay, and Troyes.—i8?o, the ex-ministers de Polignac, do 
Peyronnet, de Chantelauze, and Guernon-Ranville.— 1 848, the 
conspirators of May, and many of the insurgents of June. 

(i) His body was disinterred in 1 8i 6, and placed under the 
magnificent monument, alluded to, executed by Desenne. 





VINCENNES. 583 

The Pavilion du Roi is now converted into barracks. In 
the vestibule the visitor will see the statue of Marshal 
Daumesnil, by Emile Thomas. Behind the chapel are the 
workshops of the arsenal, and to the left is the 

Armoury ,—containing a vast store of arms, all arranged 
with great symmetry, and exhibiting many fanciful de¬ 
vices. The staircase is flanked by columns, with their pe¬ 
destals and capitals complete, all formed with musket-barrels, 
pistols, bayonets, etc., very ingeniously combined for the pur¬ 
pose. Fronting the staircase is a sort of sun, composed in a 
similar manner ; above this are seen the initials L.N., and the 
Eagle. The armoury consists of a long gallery, filled with 
modern weapons of every kind arranged in racks; from the 
ceiling hang imitations of lustres, all obtained as before from 
combinations of swords, pistols, etc. This gallery contains 
upwards of 155,000 muskets, and an immense store of swords, 
pistols, pikes, etc.; and at the furthest end is a trophy formed 
of the colours of the Garde Mobile of 184 8, with an inscription 
recording their bravery in the insurrection of June. In 
the centre of the trophy is the bust of Napoleon III., 
and in another room there is the bust of the first Emperor. 

The new fort has barracks for 2 regiments of artillery and 
stabling for 1250 horses. In each corner of the fort at the 
eastern extremity is a powder magazine. An immense park of 
artillery is kept in constant readiness. The garrison of Vin¬ 
cennes is composed of two regiments of artillery, 1 regiment 
of infantry, 1 battalion of riflemen (Chasseurs de Vincennes), 
and some companies of sappers and miners. The guns taken 
from the Austrians in 1859 are preserved here. The Chateau 
is visible everyday but the armoury on Saturdays only, both 
from 12 to 4, and with tickets to be obtained by writing to 
M. le Mini sire de la Guerre. 

On leaving the Chateau, the visitor soon arrives at. the 
Poly gone, a vast space where mounds of earth are erected as 
targets for artillery practice. This is the spot set apart for the 
Ecole de tir, where officers from all the regiments are rent to 
be instructed in the use of the improved fire-arms. From 
June to September the artillery practise firing at the butt 3 
times a-week, generally the Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 
These exercises commence at 6 o’clock, and continue till 9, 
and attract many visitors from Paris. 

East of the Polygonc, the stranger will perceive the 
Tir National Francois which takes place annually in the 
month of August. It is a vast shooting-gallery, with 58 targets 
in the rear, visible through wooden partitions pierced with 
square openings, This institution, now dec’ared permanent 



584 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

by the Minister of War, is under the control of a committee. 
At the last Tir (shooting match) competitors attended from all 
parts of Europe, the French, Swiss, and Belgians predomi¬ 
nating, though laurels were reaped also hv English competi¬ 
tors. Every amateur pays from 5 to 20 francs for every 
series of five shots, according to the prize for which he com¬ 
petes. The net produce is divided into prizes of from 40 to 
6,000 fr., awarded to the most successful shots, with every 
kind of weapon, including the bow and cross'bow. The dis¬ 
tances vary from 100 to 300 metres. 

Further on, on the same side, is the Imperial 

Model Farm, —intended, as its name denotes, for improve¬ 
ments in farming, respecting which, persons interested in the 
subject may here glean much valuable information. A visit 
to the Imperial dairy should not be neglected, for although no 
attempt is made in luxury or magnificence, as isthecasewith 
some “ show dairies'’ in England, ^et the cleanliness and 
excellent arrangements observed here are the more remarkable, 
as they can be carried into practical effect by any farmer with 
little or no expense. Butter and milk may be had here on 
the spot for a trifle ; 120 cows are kept here. M. Guerin 
Meneville has a piece of ground allotted to him here for ex¬ 
periments in the rearing of Japanese and other new and hardy 
breeds of silkworms. 

Further on, there is the Redoubt de la Faisanderie, 
where a normal gymnastic school for the army is established 
under the direction of a commandant and three professors. 
This institution receives a contingent of about 150 sub-officers, 
corporals and soldiers who are changed every six months, 
at the end of which period a public examination takes place, 
and prizes are awarded to those who most distinguish them¬ 
selves ; the pupils then return to their respective regiments and 
act as instructors to their comrades. A certain proportion of 
officers are also added to the above number. 

To the left of the Polygone, a new race-course has been 
cleared by a society, on the same plan as that of the Bois de 
Boulogne. It is 3,500 metres in circumference. The stands 
erected on the western side, consist of two wings of 100 
metres each, with the Imperial pavilion between. They can 
accommodate 3,500 spectators. Adjoining is the 

Parc de Vincennes. —This, but lately neglected wood, 
has now undergone such extensive improvements as to render it 
a most beautiful place of resort and recreation to the inhabi¬ 
tants of the eastern quarters of Paris. In 1162 the forest of 
Vincennes was surrounded with ditches. Louis VII. caused it 
to be enclosed with walls on the Paris side, and built a small 





VINCENNES. 585 

t ower at its entrance called La tourelle de St. Mande, from 
the village of that name. In 1183 Philip Augustus continued 
the wall, and stocked the forest with deer sent to him by Henry 
II. of England. At a later period St. Louis built the walls 
along the Marne. In 1731 Louis XV. caused the old and decayed 
trees to be cut down, and the wood to be replanted, for the 
benefit of the Parisians, and a pyramid, now removed, was 
erected to commemorate the event. Some fine oaks, several 
centuries old, still remain, the descendants of those under 
which King Louis delivered justice. In that part of the Park 
called Les Minimes, a convent was erected by Louis VII., of 
which now no vestige remains. The Park is intersected by 
several fine carriage roads, and a number of shady and intricate 
gravel walks. Here one often meets with a quiet knet- of 
ladies and their daughters plying the needle in the balmy sum¬ 
mer air, or a gay pic-nic party ensconced in some sequestered 
spot under the trees. Following, and occasionally crossing a 
rivulet spanned by rustic bridges, we arrive at the vast artifi¬ 
cial Lac des Minimes, due to the present Emperor’s munifi¬ 
cence. It covers a surface of 80,000 square metres, and has 
a large island in the centre, accessible by boats. This lake is 
fed by a series of turbines at St. Maur, which, by the fall of 
the Marne, daily raise a mass of 5,000 cubic metres of water 
to a height of 44 metres. The Park has now been increased 
by a large extent of ground, making its present area 876 hec¬ 
tares, 370 of which are forest ground; 37 5, meadows and 
grass-plots, 55 planted with ornamental shrubs, 2 0 of water, 
and 56 of roads and paths. A new lake has been formed in 
the plains of Charenton ; on the Montreuil and St. Mande side, 
the Park is skirted with pretty villas and Swiss chalets. 

Before leaving this spot, either by returning to Vincennes or 
by taking a ticket at the railway station of St. Mandc, the 
visitor may strike into the Route de St. Mande and visit the 

A site Imperial des Invalides Civils, commonly called 
the Asile de Vincennes, opened in 1857 for the recep¬ 
tion of sick workmen. The buildings, occupying a space 
of 42 acres, comprise a large entrance-court laid out as a 
garden, called the Cour d’Honneur, and eight inner courts. 
They are approached through a wide avenue commencing from 
the Route de St. Mande, and branching out in a semi-circle on 
nearing the Cour d’Honneur. The extreme wings flanking the 
court have porticos, and contain infirmaries and offices. A 
circular fountain occupies the centre of the court. The front 
consists of a central pavilion of the Doric order surmounted by 
a hipped roof, and flanked by two wings, composed as fol¬ 
lows ; On the ground floor, two refectories, right and left, with 





586 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

a chapel between; on the upper story two pmnenoirs, or vast 
halls for taking exercise in bad weather, and a handsome li¬ 
brary-room of the Corinthian order between. The rest of the 
buildings comprise infirmaries with three beds each, store¬ 
rooms, a laundry, baths, kitchens, and workshops for lock¬ 
smiths, joiners, turners, tailors and shoemakers. The establish¬ 
ment will accommodate 500 patients ; none but convalescent 
patients are admitted; the internal organization is the same 
as that of the Asile du Vesinet, described at p. 54 6. Work¬ 
men who have been temporarily disabled in the arsenals of 
the State, or in the execution of public works, are admitted 
here free of expense ; others may be admitted on payment of 
tw : francs a-day, or, if unable to pay that sum, for less on 
producing a certificate of indigence. Mutual Benefit Societies, 
and private establishments employing a large number of work¬ 
men may obtain the right of sending patients there on pay¬ 
ment of a moderate annual subscription. If the convalescent 
workman is strong enough, he is admitted to one of the 
workshops, where he is paid in proportion to what he does, 
and he may leave off as soon as he pleases. He may also keep 
the gardens in order, which is considered a pastime, and 
therefore not remunerated. This hospital has received as 
many as 400 convalescent workmen in the course of a month. 
The donations it has received from private persons since its 
inauguration amount at present to 55,381 fr., exclusive of 16 
houses for workmen and their families, built by the Emperor 
on the Boulevard Mazas (see p. 280), qnd now presented to 
the establishment by his Majesty. The establishment keeps 
cows, poultry, and pigs, all fed upon the produce of the 
grounds annexed to the asylum. Visible on Mondays, Thurs¬ 
days and Sundays, from 12 to 4. 

Between this and Vincennes, on the road facing the Porte 
de laTourelle, stands the new Military Hospital , inaugurated 
on the 1st June, 1858. It occupies a vast rectangle of 
60,000 square metres, 4,350 of which are occupied by the 
buildings, which enclose it on three sides; the fourth is 
formed by a glazed gallery, affording a view of the wood of 
Vincennes, and intended as a place of exercise for the conva¬ 
lescents. The court is laid out as a garden, and the building, 
which contains 600 beds, is ventilated on a new principle. 

Nearly opposite to the hospital there is a small new chapel, 
erected in 1858, with an inscription to the following effect:— 

“ The Empress Eugenie, in a promenade in the Bois de Vincennes, having 
passed before an image of the virgin, made a vow that if God blessed her 
with a son she would erect a chapel in her honour.” 




PART V. 


©311® 

AMBASSADORS, CONSULS. 

(Hoursof business about n to t.) 

Austria, ambassador, 101 ,rue 
de Grenelle St. Germain. 

Baden, minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 02, rue Blanche. 

Bavaria, charge d’affaires, 
67 , Faubourg St. Honore. 

Belgium, minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 153 , Faub. St. Honore. 

Brazil, charge d’affaires, t, 
Avenue de la Reine Hortense. 

Denmark, minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 37, rue de l’Universile. 

Free Tow ns, minister, 13, rue 
d’Aguesseau. 

Great Britain, ambassador 
extraordinary and minister ple¬ 
nipotentiary, 39, Faubourg St. 
Honore.—Consul, same address. 

Greece, charge d’affaires, 20, 
rue Taitbout. 

Hesse Darmstadt, 8 , rue de 
Milan. 

Holland, minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 9, rue Montaigne. 

Italy, ambassador, 9 , Avenue 
des Champs-Elysees. 

Nassau, charge d’affaires, 9, 
rue Montaigne. 

Portugal, charge d’affaires, 
12 , rued’Astorg.—Consul, same 
address. 

Prussia, ambassador, 7 8 , rue 
de Lille. 

Roman States, ambassador, 
102, rue St. Dominique. 

Russia, ambassador, 79 , r. de 
Grenelle St. G.—Consul, same. 

Saxony, minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 29, rue de Coureelles. 

Spain, ambassador, 25 , Quai 
d’Orsay.—Consul, 70 , rue de 
Ponthieu. 

Sweden, ministe • plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 44 , ruedelaBienfaisance. 


Kbi'S’* 

Switzerland, charge d’af¬ 
faires, 3, rue Blanche. 

United States, minister ple¬ 
nipotentiary, 95 , rue deChaillot. 
—Consul, 79 , rue de Richelieu. 

Wurtemberg, minister pleni- 
potentiary, 6, rue de Presbourg. 

Saxe Weimar, consul, 173, 
Boulevard Magenla. 

Turkey, ambassador, 10 , rue 
de Presbourg.—Consul, 68, rue 
de la Victoire. 

PARIS BANKERS. 

Ardoin and Co., 44 , rue de la 
Cliaussee d’Antin. 

John Arthur and Co., 10, 
rue Castiglione. 

Bechet, De Thomas and Co. 
17 , Boulevard Poissonniere. 

Bischoffsiieim, Goldschmidt, 
26, rue de la Chaussee d’Antin. 

Blount, 3, rue de la Paix. 

Bowles Brothers and Co., 
12 , rue de la Paix. 

Callaghan (Luc and Co.), 40, 
rue Neuve des Mathurins. 

De lisle (widow Th.) and Co., 
17 , rue Pasquier. 

Dhexel, Harges, and Co., 3, 
rue Scribe. 

Ferrere LAFFiTTE, 3 ,r.Laffitte 

Fould, 22 , rue Bergere. 

Gil (Pedro),6,b.des Capucines. 

Hentsch-Lutscher and Co., 
20 , rue Lcpeletier. 

IIottinguer, 50,rueProvenee. 

Laffitte (Charles), 4 8 bis, rue 
Basse du Rempart. 

Lehideux and Co., 1 6 , rue 
de la Banque. 

Lherbette, Kane, and Co., 8, 
Place de la Bourse. 

Mallet (Freres) and Co., 37, 
rue d’AnjouSt. Ilonord. 

Marcuard (Adolphe) and Co., 
5, rue M6nars. 


DIRECTORY 


588 

MuNROfi, 7 , rue Scribe 
Mussard, Audeoud and Co., 

6 , rue Hal 6 vy. 

Oppermann, i 5 ,r.St. Georges. 
Pillet-Will and Co., 14, rue 
Moncey. 

Rothschild, 21 , rue Laffitte. 
Rougemont de Lowenberg, 

7 , rue St. I.azare. 

Van den Broek Brothers & Co., 
60, rue de la Chaussee d’Antin. 
Vernes, 20 , rue Drouot. 
Zellweger and Co., 29,rue de 
Provence. 

ATTORNEYS, SOLICITORS. 

Castaignet, Attorney, 28, rue 
Louis le Grand. 

Kennerley Hall, 4 , rue de 
Choiseul. 

Maugham, 54 ,fbg. St.ITonore. 
Mourilyan, Solicitor, 370, rue 
St. Honors. 

Sampson, 7, rue Mondovi. 
NOTARIES. 

St. Gilles, 2 , rue de Choiseul. 
ENGLISH GLERGYMEN. 
Rev. J. C. Cox, M.A., Chaplain 
to the British Embassy, 4 4, 
Faubourg St. Honors. 

Rev. G. G. Gardiner, 10 bis, 
Avenue Marbceuf. 

Rev. Gurney, 46, Bit. Maillot. 
Rev. E. Forbes, 229 , Faubourg 
St. Honors. 

AMERICAN CLERGYMEN. 

Rev. Lamson, 6i, r. Pepini^re* 
Rev. Ch. Robinson, 16 , rue 
Billault. 

AGENTS. 

John Arthur and Co., 10, rue 
Castiglione. 

Hartwick, 390, r. St. Honors. 
George Smith, 14, rue Cas¬ 
tiglione. House and General 
Agent. Agent to the American 
Consulate ; also manager of the 
Paris Couriers Society. Funerals 
conducted in Paris or conveyed 
abroad. 

Sprent, 4 , rue de la Ferme. 
Webb, 220 , rue de Rivoli, 


FURNISHED HOTELS. 

Carriages, Horses, etc., may be hadi 
Bedford, 4 6, rue Pasquier. 
Brighton, 218 , rue de Rivoli. 
Bristol, 5 , Place Yendbme. 
(First-rate Family Hotel.) 

Deux Mondes (des), 8 , rue 
d’Antin, between the Tuileries 
and the Boulevards. 

First-rate and excellent in every 
respect. 

Grand Hotel, 12, Boulevard 

dcs Capucines. 

Grande Bretagne (de la), 4 4 , 
rue Caumartin. 

Hollande, 16, rue de laPaix. 
Lille et Albion, 223, rue 
St. Honore. 

A very excellent and spacious Hotel. 
Liverpool, 10, rue Castiglione. 
Londres, 5 , rue Castiglione. 
Louvre, 1 66 , 168, rue Rivoli. 
Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli. 
No exertion spared to merit pa¬ 
tronage. The great object in view is to 
give satisfaction by rendering the Ho¬ 
tel as comfortable as home. 

Montaigne, 5, rue Montaigne. 
Ruin, 4, Place Vendome. 
Rivoli, 202, rue de Rivoli. 
Youillemont, 4 5 , rue Boissy 
d’Anglas. 

Wagram, 206, rue de Rivoli. 
Windsor, 226, rue de Rivoli. 

VERSAILLES. 

Hotel du Petit-Vatel, rue des 
Reservoirs, 26, near the Park. 
Hotel des Reservoirs. 

Hotel de Fiance. 

Apartments and Furnished 
Rooms; large, and comfortable ; 
moderate charges. 3, rue 
Petigny, near the Park. 

P A SS Y.—Family Boarding 
House. Kept by M. and Mme. 
Delcros, 15 & 17 , rueDesbordes- 
Valmore (Parc Guichard). Fur¬ 
nished apartments and rooms. 
Table d’hote. Fine Garden. 
Terms moderate. Different om¬ 
nibuses and railway to Paris. 
English spoken. 







directory. 

restaurants and cafes. 

At those marked by a * breakfasts 
and dinners may be bad ; at all the 
others breakfasts, or evening refresh¬ 
ments only. ' 

‘Richard, Salon Frangais, \ 37 , 

Palais Royal, Galerie Valois. 

Darners, 2 fr.; Breakfasts, t fr. 25 c. 

Ir'eres Provengaux, Pal.Royal. 


589 

Cafe Choiseul , 23, rue Neuve 
St. Augustin. 

Cafe Veron, boul. Montmartre. 
Cafe Mazarin , 16 , Boulevard 
Montmartre. 

Cafe de la Bourse, on the Place. 
Cafedu Musee, boul. St. Michel, 


Cafede laRotonde, Palais Royal! corner of boulevard St. Germain. 

* D » . 1 . . m _ . ^ i./l.fo do 1 ' T 7/W /l\l AM/. 11,1 A Tn n ^ Iv a 


*Restaurant Trappe, 40, Galerie 
Montpensier, Palais Royal. 

Cafe d'Orleans, Palais Royal. 
Cafe de la Galerie d'Orleans 
Palais Royal. 

Cafedu Louvre , is l , r.St.Honor6 
Cafe Regence , 1 61 , r. St. Honore. 
Cafe de VUnivers, rue Rohan. 
Cafe de la Paix, 18 4, r. Rivoli. 
*Cafe Voisin, 261 r. St.Honore. 
Cafe Boussard, 306,r.St. Honors. 
Cafe Concorde, t, rue Mondovi. 
Cafe Cotte, 1 4, rue Royale. 
Cafe Durand, 2 , Place de la 
Madeleine. 

Cafedu Rond Point, 4, Champs 
Elys6es. 

Grande Taverne du Cirque, Rond 
Point, Champs Elysees, 2 . 


, 4- 


Cafe del’Univers, rue Jacob, 
Cafe Parisien, 26, ruede Bondi. 
Cafe du Danemark, 196, rue 
St. Honord. 

Cafede la Poste, 98, r. de Rivoli. 
Cafe Procope, ruede l’Ancienne 
Comedie. 

Cafe Voltaire, Place de l’Oddon. 
ENGLISH PASTRY-COOKS. 
Colombin, 8 , rue Luxembourg. 
Guerre, 234, rue de Rivoli. 

ENGLISH RESTAURANTS. 

Austin, 26, rue d’Amsterdam. 
Blet, i 4, rue de la Madeleine. 
Byron, 2 , rue Favart. 
Combe’s, 2 3 , Faub. St. Honord. 
Gowett, 30 , Faub. St. Honors. 
Pinel, 32, rue St. Marc. 

39 , 


Cafe Marignan , 35 , Champs- D H ! LL s . ^ 0ND J? N Tavern, 
[ Vs £ fis ’ v Boulevard des Capuctnes. 

Weber, 25 , rue Royale. 
PHYSICIANS & SURGEONS. 
Bishop, 22, rue Matignon. 
Cloquet (Jules), surgeon, i9, 
Boulevard Malesherbes. 

Campbell, Chef de Clinique 
d’Accouchement, 24,rueRSyale. 

Chepmell, Isaac Dobree, Sur¬ 
geon (ex-House Physician at 


Elysees. 

BrasserieAnglaise, 99, Champs- 
ElysSes. 

Cafe de Londres, rue Duphot. 

Cafe Restaurant de la Paix, 
boulevard des Capucines. 

Cafe Tripier , 1 , Boulevard des 
Capucines. 

Grand Cafe Thiebault, 14 , Bou¬ 
levard des Capucines. 


Cafe Foy, corner of boule- King’s College Hospital), 21 , ruo 
yards and r. Chauss^e d’Antin. de Suresnes. 


Cafe du Grand Balcon, Boule¬ 
vard des Italiens. 

Cafe des Italiens, Boulevard des 
Italiens, 28. 

Cafe du Ilelder, 29 bis, boule¬ 
vard des Italiens. 

Cafe Tortoni, 22 , boul. Italiens. 

* Cafe Anglais, boulev. Italiens. 
CafeLemaire, \ 1 , rueLepelletier. 

Cafe Scossa, 25 , rue Drouot. 

*Cafe Restaurant Barbotte, I, 
rue de Compi^gne. 


Churchill (chest affections), 
7 , rue Scribe. 

Gantillon, Accoucheur (stomach 
affections), 12 , rue Monthabor. 

James (Constantin), 51, rue de 
Luxembourg, (consultations on 
the choice of mineral waters). 

Mac Cartiiy, 17, Boulevard 
Malesherbes. 

Sir Joseph Olliffe, Physician 
to the British Embassy, 2 , rue 
St. Florentin. 


DIRECTORY 


590 

Rayner, 2 , rue Bassano, BOARDING SCHOOLS. 
Champs Elys^es. BOYS. 


Roberts, 23, rue Manguan. 

Shrimpton, 17 , rue d’Anjou. 

Smith, surg., 8 , r. Castiglione. 

Thierry-Mieg, English Phy¬ 
sician to the Grand Hotel, and 
accoucheur, 7, Boulevard Hauss- 
mann, near rue Tronchet.— 
Consultations from 2 1o 3. 

SURGEON DENTISTS. 

George, 224, rue de Rivoli. 

Author of several works on Den¬ 
tistry. Inventor of the Myrrhine 
Dentifrice sold by all chemists.—Re¬ 
ceives from (0 to 4. 

Seymour, to, rue Castiglione. 

Renowned for the great skill and 
attention with which he treats his 
patients.—Established in t8i0. 

CHEMISTS, APOTHECARIES. 

E. Gallois, Laureate of the 
School of Paris, 2, Place Yen- 
dome, corner of rue St. Honors. 

English and French Dispensary. A 
very old-established house, patronized 
by several ministers and members of 
the Emperor’s household. 

M. Hogg, English Chemist, 2 , 
rue Castiglione (two doors from 
the Tuileries Gardens'. Establish¬ 
ment in London, Hyde-Park Sq. 
—Chemists to the Queen. 

N. B.—Addresses of all English and 
French physicians given. 

Roberts & Co., Chemists to 
the British Embassy, 2 3, Place 
Vendome. 

H. H. Swann, Chemist to the 
American Embassy, 12 , rue 
Castiglione. 

A highly respectable and well con¬ 
ducted establishment. 

MINERAL WATERS. 

All French and Continental Waters. 

THE VICHY COMPANY. 

22 , Boulevard Montmartre. 

EDUCATIONAL 

ADDRESS OFFICE. 

From to till 2 o’clock, Mr. Eman 
Martin, French professor (who speaks 
English') recommends gratis to fo¬ 
reigners families receiving board¬ 
ers for the practice of the French 
language, schools and seminaries, 
and professors of all kinds, 20, Boti- 
evard des Rations. 


M. Prunieres, 32, rue de ! 
Bruxelles.— Select and well-i 
conducted establishment. 

GIRLS. 

Miss Anderson, formerly ol 1 
2 t, Gloucester Gardens, Hyde 
Park, London, receives a select 
and limited number of Young 
Ladies for their Education. 
81 , Avenue de la Grande Arm6e. 

PROFESSORS. 

ENGLISH and CLASSICS.— 
Bishop, 69, r. Nve. St. Augustin. 

ENGLISH.— Murray, 35, rue 
de Moray. 

FRENCH, GERMAN, LATIN, 
and GREEK taught on best prin¬ 
ciples by Prof. Benner, B.A., 
Phonologist of European and 
Oriental Languages. Author of 
Treatise on French Genders and 
//.—FRENCH, ENGLISH, and 
PIANO Lessons by Miles. B. 
Parisians: 1 st floor, 203, rue St. 
Honore. 

FRENCH.— F. Albites, 4 , rue 
St. Lazare. 

Prof. Beljame, B.A., LL.B., 
University of Paris, late of the 
Royal High School of Edinburgh, 
now Professor at the Imperial 
College of St. Louis, and official 
Interpreter to the ImperialCourt, 
224, rue de Rivoli, same house 
as Messrs. Gulignani and Co.’s 
Library. — N.R. Second floor: 
entrance through the private 
gateway. 

This old-cstahlislicd master is re¬ 
commended to persons desirous of ac¬ 
quiring fluency in speaking and purity 
of accent. Ry his long experience in 
this special branch of tuition, and his 
thorough knowledge of the English 
language, Prof. B. is enabled to impart 
his instructions with great success, 
and rapidly to advance beginners of 
all ages in conversation. 

Prof. B.’s French Conversation 
Grammar and other practical works 
for the use of English and American 
students, which will be found well 
a lapted to their purpose, are to be had 
of Messrs. Galignam and Co., and of 
all booksellers iiitheWestEmlofParis. 


DIRECTORY. §9J 


Mile. Bisard, 32,Fbg.St.Honor6 

Lessons of French and Literature. 

De La Moriniere, 39, Avenue 
de la Grande Armee. 

M lle Damas, 23, r. Luxembourg. 

GERMAN. — Lennheim, M.A., 
7 9, Boulevard Courcelles. 

ITALIAN.—F. Albites, 4, rue 
St. Lazare. 

Mazzuoli, 7 , Avenue de St. 
Ouen. 

TAINTING AND DRAWING. 

Dagnan, 35, rue St. Georges. 
—Landscape in oil and pencil. 

Gariot, 6, rue Oudinot.— 
Landscape, and Portrait. 

Nimmo, 9, rue de Yerneuil.— 
Miniature. 

PROFESSORS OF MUSIC. 

MM. and Mlle. Binfield, Piano, 
Harp, Singing, 93, rue du Faub. 
St. Honore, and 47, Grande Rue, 
Passy-Paris. 

BELis(Miss), 48,rue Monsieur 
le Prince.—Piano. 

MUSIC and SINGING.—Miss 
Rowland, 22 , rue des Acacias, 
aux Ternes. 

Recommended by Messrs. Galignani. 

DANCING-MASTER. 

Lenfant, 10, rue de Hanovre. 
JEWELLERS, GOLDSMITHS, 

Bablin, 166 , Galerie Valois, 
Palais Royal, a la Boule d'Or. 

A constant display of the richest 
jewellery in the newest and best taste. 
—A great choice ot diamonds and all 
other stones for mounting according 
to order, for which t hey have first-rate 
workmen in their employ—Stones cut 
—Precious stones bought or exchanged 
—English spoken. 

Morel & Co., 62 ,r. Richelieu. 

This old-established and highly re¬ 
spectable house lias been long known 
for the taste and elegance of its work¬ 
manship, as well as for its rich assort¬ 
ment of diamonds and jewels.—Dia¬ 
monds and precious stones purchased. 

OPTICIAN. 

Engineer Chevallier, ma¬ 
thematical-instrument - maker 
and optician to the late King, 
15 , Place du Pont Neuf, facing 
the statue of llenry IV. 


Engineer Ducray -Chevallier, 
only successor, ’ 

M. Chevallier, member of several li¬ 
terary andscientificsocieties in France 
and foreign countries, and author of 
the CoNSEiivATF.cn de la Vue, and other 
works, makes with the utmost preci¬ 
sion every species of optical, mathe¬ 
matical, mineralogical, and other in¬ 
struments. With him originated the 
improved glasses for the assistance of 
the sight, particularly the opera-glasses 
called Jcmelles, lo which has been 
added the application centrees. in con¬ 
sequence of ttie adaptation of a simple 
piece of mechanism, which admirably 
fils them lo the precise distance of tho 
two eyes from each other. M. Cheval- 
licr has lately executed, from the plans 
of Professor A. Fisher,ol Moscow.a new 
microscope, which its inventor calls 
the Pancratic Microscope, on account 
of the different degrees to which it 
may be made to magnify. M. Cheval¬ 
lier lias been distinguished l>y several 
medals and prizes for various inven¬ 
tions and improvements with which 
lie has enriched science. His establish¬ 
ment, founded by his family in 1740, 
has been conducted personally since 
179G.—M. Chevallier has no other diSpot 
either in Paris or the Departments. 

A clerk who speaks English is at¬ 
tached to the establishment 

SPECTACLES AND OPE A 
GLASSES. 

M. IIenri, Oculist , and Optician , 
188 , rue de Rivoli, facing the 
Tuileries, and corner of the Pas¬ 
sage Delorme, No. 2 . 

Al. Henri, from his thorough know¬ 
ledge of the eye and great practical 
experience in the manufacture of 
glasses is the only Oculist Optician 
who received Honourable Mention at 
the 1 ondon Universal Exhibition, 
1851, for his valuable improvements. 

STATIONERY. 

A. MARION AND CO. 

superior fancy writing 

PAPER. 

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FASHIONABLE LETTER PAPER AND 
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and not prepared); also paper 
Albumenized by Machinery, on a 
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592 


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PURVEYOR. 

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General Provision Warehouse. 

(Agents to Messrs. Domecq <>f 'Xeriis 
de la Frontera,and to the Druro Com¬ 
pany, Portugal.) 

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Groceries, Pickles, Sauces, and Sun¬ 
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The only House for the exclusivcsale 
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No variation from price asked. 

CEINTURE REGENTE 
of Mmes. de Vertus, Soeurs, 3i, 
rue de la Chaus^e d’Antin. 


This admirable girdle has been fof I 
a long period the delight of families | 
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is. however, an infallible means of 
obtaining the genuine article, which 
is, never to purchase a “ Ceinture 
Regente ” unless it has the signature 
and address, “ Mmes. de Vertus, 
Soeurs,” written in ink on the inside. 

EAU DE COLOGNE. 
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PERFUMER. 

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steams 


The letter n. refers to the note in the Page indicated 
Abattoirs . 39, 447, 450 Apartments 

Abbey of Port Royal. . 135 Aquarium 


-des Champs 

Abelard and Heloise, mo¬ 
nument to 
—House of. 

Academie des Beaux-Arts, 

—Agricole, Commerciale, 

—Francaise 
0 

—des Inscriptions et Belles 
Lettres .... 
—de Medecine. . 142, 

—de Paris. 

—des Sciences . 

—des Sciences Morales et 
Politiques. 

Administration of Paris, 


12 , 8 ? 

. 494 

579 Aqueducts, 27, 495, 498, 519, 
520 

455 Arago, monument to, . 455 
320 Arc de Triomphe de la 
90 Place du Carrousel . 154 
10G —de l’Ctoile . . 35, 191 

89 —de St. Denis . . . 23G 

—de St. Martin. . .249 

89 Archbishop’s Palace, 317, 34G 
355 Archives de l’Empire . 265 

92 Arcueil.495 

90 Area, cultivation, 6tc., of 
Department of Seine, 2Gn. 


90 

69 


—del’Assistance publique, 118 
—du Mont de Piete. . 128 

—of the Police. . .72 

—of the Post Office. . 7 

Adult Schools . . .101 

Advocates . . . .68 

Agents de Change. . .107 


495 

455 

472 

185 

85 

587 

507 

459 


Affre, Archb., where killed 281 

Alfort. 

Alfred de Musset, tomb . 

Algerian Produce, Exhib. 

Allec des Veuves. . 

Ambassadors, and Consuls, 

—Residences of. 

Amphitheatre, Roman . 

Amusements, public. 

Anatomy, Amphitheatre 
of. 134, 42G 

—Cabinets of, 390, 391, 432 
Ancient Colleges, 383, 393, 

394, 396, 399,400,404, 409 
411, 424 

—Measures and Weights, 17 n. Asnieres 
Anne of Austria, vow of, 

Annuaire des Longitudes, 

Antiquarians, Streets inte¬ 
resting to, 2G5, 390, 393, 

394, 396, 411 

Antiques, Cabinet of, 161,227 


Argenteuil . . . . 495 

—Relic at,. . . .496 

Argot.249 

Armenian Persuasion. . 116 
—College . . . . 34G 

Army, dotation of . .63 

—Regular .... 63 

Arnouville . . . .496 

Arrest for debt. . .85 

Arrival at Paris, direc¬ 
tions upon ... 2 

Arrondissements of Paris, 4 
Arsenal . . . .295 

Artesian Well of Gre- 
nelle.334 


419 

91 


—of Jardin des Plantes, 439 n, 
—of Passy. . . .190 

Artists, Committee of .105 

Asile de la Providence . 123 
—Lambrechts . . .123 

—Ste-Anne. . . .123 

—de Ste-Perine. . 118, 189 
•—du Vesinet . . .546 

—de Vincennes. . . 585 

. 481,496 
Assembly, National. 325 n. 
Assize, court of. . .66 

Association de Travail 
pour les Pauvres . .126 

Association pour les Or- 
phelins . , . .124 



594 

Asylums, see Asiles. 

Asylum, Blind. . 121,335 

—Deaf and Dumb, 124, 420 
—Lunatic, 141,440, 496, 499 
—Orphan. . 119,121,417 
Ateliers de Sculpture . 332 


INDEX. 

Bellevue.496 

Bercy.280 

Berri, Due de, where as¬ 
sassinated. . . .221 

Bibliotheque des Archives 268 


A thenee des Arts, 5cc. 
Athenes, la Nouvelle. 
Auctioneers, Appraisers, 
Auction-rooms 
Austerlitz . 

Auteuil. 

Avoues. 

Bagatelle . 

Bagnes, or 
Bagneux 


105 

216 

68 

219 


295 

354 

259 

221 

100 

329 

403 


. 68 
. 493 

hulks, 75 n., 80 
. 496 

Bains . . 37, 248, 319 

—d’Enghien(Sulphureous) 508 
Bakehouse for Hospitals, 142 
—for garrison of Paris. . 188 
Ball, firstone in Paris . 477 n. 
Balls and Public Gardens, viii, 
475 to 481 
Bank of France. 

Banks, Savings. 

Bankers, list of. 

Banlieue of Paris 
Banquet of 1848 
Barometrical Scales, Eng- 


—de PArsenal 
—de FArtillerie. 

—des Arts et Metiers. 

—du Commerce. 

—Conservat. deMusique 
. 442 —duCorps Legislatif. 

189, 496 —de l’Ecole de Droit. 

—de l’Ecole de Medecine, 391 
—del’Ecole des Mines. . 383 
—de l’Ecole Polytech. 96, 104 
—de Ste. Genevieve. . 4 04 
—Imperiale . . 35, 221 

—del’Institut . . . 364 

—des Invalides. . .343 

—du Jardin des Plantes, 438 
—de Louis Philippe. . 208 
—du Louvre . . .17 6 

—du Luxembourg . 37 7 n. 

—Mazarine. . . .363 

—Military . . 350, 354 

—duMinisterede laGuerre 350 
—du M i nistere de la Marine 
—of Ministries . 

—de l’Observatoire 
—Polonaise 


107, 230 
. 129 
. 587 
. 42 

. 190 


lish and French . .20 

Barracks, 35, 231, 233, 252, —de la Reine . 
279, 290, 321, 333, 341, —de la Sorbonne 
346, 348, 394 

Barriers . .278,442,447 


Barriere du Trone . .278 

Bassin de la Villette. . 27 

Bastringues. . . .481 

Baths, see Bains . .37 

Batignolles, town-house, 44 8 


—de St. Sulpice 
—de Versailles. 

—de la Ville. . 
Bicetre, Hospice de 
—Nouveau. 

Bievre, the 
Bills of Exchange 


59 


. 104 
. 104 
. 318 
. 208 
. 384 
104,373 
. 579 
. 290 
. 496 
. 80 
414 
85 
256 


26 , 


Bazars . . 37, 231, 237 Bird-market 

Beaujon, Chapelle . .195 Births, deaths, and marri- 

—Hopital . . 139, 195 ages, laws on, 82, 83 

Beaumarchais’residence . 283 —in Paris . . . .41 

Beauvais .... 496 —in France . . 4In. 

Beer.42 n. Bituminous pavement. . 31 

Belleville * 452 Blessinglon,Countess > tomb546 




INDEX. 


595 


Blind, Hospital. . 121, 283 
—School .... 335 
Boarding-houses. . vii, 12 

Boarding-schools. . .100 

Bceuf Gras . . . .47 5 

Boileau’s burial-place 300, 358 
Bois de Boulogne, 193, 480 
—de Vincennes. . .584 

Bornes-fontaines. . .28 

Botanical Gallery. . . 437 

—Garden,379, 382, 414,428 
BoulangerieGenerale, 142, 426 
Boulevards . . 13, 36, 48 6 

— exterior. . 442,448 
Boulevard Malesherbes . 202 

— de Magenta . .233, 252 

— de Strasbourg . .2 50 

— de Sebastopol . .261 

— du Prince Eugene 253, 27 0 

— Richard Lenoir . .2 76 

— de St. Germain . .393 

Boulogne, Bois de . .486 

Bourbon, death of Duke32 5,547 
Bourg-la-Reine . . .497 

Bourguignons and Arma- 


gnacs . . . 390 n. 

Bourse, la . . .107,219 

Brea, Gen., murder of .442 
Bread, how sold. . .45 

Brewery, extraordinary, 441 
Bridges, see Fonts . .29 

—Venetian . . .449 

Brinvilliers, Marquise de, 279 

British Embassy . .199 

—Charitable Fund . .125 

—Currency in francs . 16 

—Residents, laws affecting 8 2 
Buc ..... 498 
Budget . . . .62 

Buildings, Public. . . 34 

—Private, remarkable . 31 

Bureau d’admission dans 
les hopitaux. . 136, 308 
—de Bienfaisance . .127 

—des Longitudes. . 91, 417 

—des Ouvriers . . .73 


Bureau des Poids et 
Mesures . . . .73 

—de Surete . . .72 

Butchers . . . 39 n. 

Butte de Chaumont 449, 451 
Cabinets, see Museums, 
Louvre. 

Cabriolets .... 4 

Cafes, 12, 209, 219, 393 
—Concerts. . . .474 


Caisse d’Amortissement, 


Depots et Consignat. 

108, 

321 

—Diocesaine 

• 

1 13 

—d’Epargne. 

• 

129 

—pour la*Vieillcsse. 

• 

109 

Calvin, residence of. 

• 

394 

Calvinist worship . 

• 

113 

Camp, military . 

• 

505 

Canals. 

• 

27 

Canal St. Martin 

276, 

283 

Carnival 

• 

475 

Carpet Manufactory . 

• 

411 

Carriages, 8cc. . 

• 

4 

—of State . 

577, 

157 

—number of public. 

• 

on. 

Carrousel, Place du. 

• 

153 

Cartouche, skull of . 

• 

404 

Casernes, see Barracks . 

35 

Catacombs . 

441, 

443 

Catelan, troubadour, death 


of 

. 49 

1 n. 

Cattle Markets, 39 

46, 

450 


Cavaignac, Gen., house of 348 
Cave Generaleof Hospitals, 14 2 
Ceinture de St. Eloi . .307 

Cemeteries . . . .38 

Cemetery de St. Catherine, 427 
—de Montmartre . 39, 448 
—du Mont Parnasse, 39, 44 6 
—duPere La Chaise, 39, 453 


—de Picpus. . . .27 9 

Cent Gardes ... 64 

Centigrade scale . .21 

Cercles or Clubs. . .14 

Chamber of Commerce . 106 
Chamber of Deputies .325 




596 INDEX. 


Chamber of Notaries . . 263 

—of Peers . . . .374 

Chambre des Requetes . 301 
—grande, du Parlement. 301 
Champ de Mars. . .332 

Ciiamplieu . . . .507 

Champs Elysees, 182, 185, 484 
Chantilly . . . .4 98 

—Races . . . .499 

Chapelle, la, St. Denis . 449 
—de Beaujon . . .195 

—Expiatoire . . .202 

—de Marie de Medicis . 377 
—Malesherbes . . .115 

—Marbceuf . ' 115, 190 

—Notre Dame desFlammes 496 
—Sainte . . . .304 

—St. Martin . . .252 

—de la Trinite . . .215 

—St. Ferdinand . .193 

—of the Luxembourg . 378 

Charcoal . . . .30 

Charenton, Hospital of .499 
Charges d’Affaires . .587 

Charitable Fund, British . 125 

—Institutions . . .117 

—Societies . . .124 

Charlemagne’s prayer-book 169 
Charonne . . . ,.453 

Chartres .... 500 
Chateau de la Muette . 190 

Chatelet, grand. . .262 

—Petit . . . 307ft. 

Chatenay . . . .501 

Children, number sent to 
Foundling Hospital, 119 ft. 
Choisy-le-Roi . . .501 

Churches, Greek . .116 

—Protestant, 113, 190, 199, 
219, 241, 272, 294, 348 
—Romish, see Eglise .33,111 
Circulating libraries . 14, 176 
Cites Ouvrieres . 233, 280 
Clamart, Amphitheatre of 
Anatomy . *134,42 6 

Clergy of France . 116 ft. 


Clisson, Connetable, street 
where he was waylaid, 273 

Clubs.14 

Club, French Jockey, 14,483 
Coaches, Public. . 2,4 

Coffee-houses . . .14 

Coin, French . . .15 

—Amount of in France, 15ft. 
—Comparative table of . 16 

Coligny, Adm., death of, 241ft. 
Collection of Engravings . 225 
—of Manuscripts . .224 

—of Musical Instruments 232 
—Standish . . . .170 

Colleges Municipaux, 99,215 
—old.remains of, 383, 393, 
394, 396, 399, 400, 404, 


409, 411, 424 

College des Anglais . .424 

—de Ste. Barbe . 99,403 
—Chaptal . . . 99,216 

—Duplessis . . . 399 

—des Ecossais . . .409 

—de France . . 94, 398 

—des Irlandais . .424 

—de Montaigu . . .404 

—des Quatre Nations, 34, 362 
—Rollin . . .99, 424 

—de la Sorbonne . 92, 383 

—Stanislas ... 99 

—Turgot .... 99 

Colombes . . . .501 


Column of Halle au Ble . 242 
—of July . . . .28 2 
—of the Place du Chatelet 2 63 
—of Place Vendome 35, 177 
Comite Central des Artistes 105 
Commerce on the Seine . 29 

—Tribunal de . . 67, 306 

—Chamber of . . .106 

Commercial Establishm. 106 
Commissaires de Police . 73 
—Priseurs . . . .68 

Commissionnaires . .13 
Communal Administration 69 
Compiegne. . . .501 



INDEX. 


597 


Compiegne, environs . 505 

Comptoir d’Escompte . 109 

Concerts . . . .47 3 

Conchology, Museum of, 382 
Conciergerie, la. . 78, 302 
Concorde, Place de la. . 179 

-historical events . 182 

Confreres de la Passion 261,459 
Connaissance des Temps, 91 
Conseil PrudTiommes, 68, 306 
—de Salubrite . . .72 

—de l’lnstruction Publ. 91 
Conservatoire de Musique 
et Declamation . loo, 231 
—des Arts et Metiers, 95, 256 
Consuls. . . .86, 587 

Convents . . . .112 

—remains of 295, 350, 394 
Convent of Celestins. . 295 
—of Bernardins. . .394 

—of Capuchins . .415 

—of Carmelites . 381, 418 

—of Dames de St. Joseph, 415 
—of Dames de St. Michel, 423 
—of Dames du Sacre 
Coeur . . 112, 346, 415 

—of Dames de St. Thomas 112 
—of English nuns . .112 

—of Feuillantines . .423 

—des Feuillants . 150, 174 

—des Lazaristes. . .346 

—desMiramiones . .396 

—des Oiseaux . . .346 

—ofPentemont. . .348 

—of Soeurs de la Congre¬ 
gation de Notre Dame, 346 
—of Soeurs de St. Vincent 
de Paule . .112, 347 

—of the Temple. . . 253 

—of Ursulines . . . 423 

Conveyances from London 2 
Convulsionists ; . .414 

Copyright . . . .86 

Corbeil.507 

Corday, Charlotte, where 
she stabbed Marat. . 393 


306, 


34, 


Corneille, where he died, 210 
Council of Department 
—of Ministers . 

—of Prefecture . 

—of State . 

Country Balls . 

Cour Irnperiale . 

—des Comptes, 66, 

—des Miracles . 

—de la Vacherie 
Courbevoie 
Cours la Reine. 

Court, high, of Justi 
—of Assize. 

—of Cassation 
—Martial. . 

Courts, Tribunals. 

Courtiers . 

Creches 

Credit Foncier . 

—Mobilier. 

Cricket Club 
Croix-Rouge 
Crystal Palace . 

Custom-house . 

Customs, administration of 
Damesme, monument to, 
Dancing, public. 

Deaf and Dumb,. .124, 

Deaths. 

Debt, Public 

Debtors, Prison for . 78, 
Decimal System. 

Degrees, Academical. 

Denis, St., legend of. 247 n. 
Department, Prefecture of, 69 
Departmental Administr. 69 
Depot de la Guerre . .350 

—des Condamnes . .80 

—des Four rages. . .281 

—desPoudresetSalpetres, 294 
—de la Pref. de Police . 303 
Desaix, Monument to. . 298 
Diary of Places that ought 
to be seen . . . iii 

Diligences .... 2 


69 
59 
69 
58 
481 
66 
322 
. 24 9 
. 399 
. 507 
. 182 
. 65 

. 66 
34, 65 
64, 381 
65 
107 
126 
110 
110 
484 
354 
183 
252 
71 
508 
475 
420 
83 
62 
216 
17 
92 


21 , 





598 

Dining, choice of Dishes, 
Direction des Contribu¬ 
tions Directes. 

—of the Customs 
—des Droits d’Octroi 
—de FEnregistrement et 
des Domaines. . 71, 

—of indirect taxes . 

—des Nourrices. 

—de la Poste aux Chevaux, 
Directions o the Travel¬ 
ler leaving England , 

—on his arrival and be¬ 
fore leaving Paris. 

Directory, Paris. 

Dishes, French, list of. 

Docks Napoleon 
Dog-market. 

Domicile 
Drama in France 
Dramatic Authors’ remu¬ 
neration, by theatres, 
Drawings, Cabinets of . 
Drives, viii., 505, 517, 
Dubarry, Mine., villa . 520 529 
Dupuytren Museum, 134, 390 
Duties, British . . .21 

—French . . . .23 

ficoled’Accouchement,l 35,4 1 5 
—d’Administration . .400 

—d’Adultes . . .101 

—des Arts et Manufactures 97 
—des Beaux Arts . 97, 

—Centrale .... 

—Chaptal .... 

—de la Chambre du Com¬ 
merce .... 


97, 


93 


—des Charles . 

—de Dessin 
—de Droit 
—d’Equitation . 

—d’Etat Major . 

—de Langucs Orientales, 


INDEX 

Ecole de Musique et de 
Declamation . 100, 2 31 
—deNatation . . 38,319 

—Normale . . 95, 423 

—Number of Pupils in 
Ecoles for all France, 101 n. 
—de Pharmacie . 135,414 

—Polytechnique, 34, 95, 410 
—Ponts et Chaussees, 96, 369 
—Pratique d’Anatomie . 132 
—Primaires Superieures 101 
—Speciales de Dessin . loo 
—Superieure du Commerce loo 
—Turgot . . . 99, 255 

—Veterinaires, Bergeries, 136 
Edifices, Public. . . 34 

—Private . . . .31 

Eglise de St. Ambroise . 27 6 
—St. Antoine . . .283 

—de l’Assomption . .17 8 

—St. Augustin . .203 

—St. Benoit . . .385 

—St. Bernard . . .449 

— des Blancs Manteaux . 271 
—des Cannes Billettes . 27 2 

—Ste. Clotilde . . .349 

—St. Denis du St. Sacrem. 27 6 
—Ste. Elisabeth. , .254 

—St.Eloi .... 279 
—St. Etienne duMont, 33, 40§ 
-—St. Eustache . . 33, 245 

—St. Eugene . . .232 

—St. Ferdinand . . . 195 

—St. Francois d’Assise . 268 
—St. Francois Xavier. . 34 7 
—Ste. Genevieve . . 400 

—St. Germain l’Auxer- 
rois. . . . 33, 


vi 

71 

71 

71 

231 

71 

127 

71 

1 

2 

587 

vi 

252 

441 

85 

459 

461 

171 

584 


365 

97 

99 


100 

265 


100, 390 —St.GermaindesPres, 33, 

3C 


—de Medecine 
—Militaire 
—des Mines 


403 

103 

96 

97 


238 

355 

290 


St. Gervais 

—des Invalides . 337,345 

—de Jesus . . . .354 

—St. Jacques du HautPas. 422 
130,391 — St. Jacq. et Christophe. 449 
35, 333 —St. Jean Baptiste . .452 

90, 382 —St. Jean de Latran . 399 




INDEX. 599 

EgliseSt. Julien le Pauvre 308 Empress’s Chapel . . 586 

—St. Lambert . , .447 Empire, Constitution of . 56 

—St. Laurent . . . 250 Enclos de la Trinite . .261 

— St. Leu and St. Gilles , 247 Enfans Sans-Souci . . 459 

—St. Louis d’Antin. . 215 Enghien-les-Bains . . 508 

—St.Louis en l’lle . .319 English Embassy . .199 

—de la Madeleine . 33, 199 —Consul .... 199 
—Ste. Marguerite. 33, 277 —Divine Service , .115 

—St. Medard . . . 413 —FreeSchools . . .115 

—St. Merri. . . 33, 263 —and Fr. Measures, etc. 17 

—desMissionsEtrangeres, 347 —Medical Society . .143 

—St. Nicolas Champs, 33, 260 —Money into French . 16 

—St. NicolasChardonnet, 395 —Nuns, Convent of, 418, 423 
—Notre Dame. . 33, 309 Engravings, Collection of, 225 

—Notre Dame de Bonne Enseignement Special . 99 

Nouvelle. . ." . 237 Entrepot des Bles . . 449 

—Notre Dame Lorette, 33, 217 —des Chargements . .251 

—de l’Oratoire. . .241 —desDouanes . . . 252 

—St.Paulet St.Louis, 33, 293 —desGlaces . . . 248 

—Pentemont . . .348 —des Sels . . . .252 

—Petits Peres . . .230 Environs of Paris . .495 


—St. Philippe . . .196 —Conveyances to, see pages 

—St. Pierre de Chaillot, 190 before Title. 

—St. Pierre, GrosCaillou, 3 32 Equestrian Performances, 47 2 
—St. Roch. . . 33, 210 Ermenonville . . . 508 

—de la Redemption. . 219 Establishments, Charitable 117 
—St. Severin . . 33, 397 —Commercial . . .106 

—de la Sorbonne . .384 —Religious. . . .111 

—St. Sulpice . . 33, 37 0 Estaminets (Smoking- 

—St. Thomas d’Aquin . 35i rooms) . . . .14 

—de la Trinite. . .215 Etablissement en faveur 

—du Val de Grace, 33, 419 des Blesses Indigents . 142 


—Ste. Valere . . . 34 6 —des Filatures . . .126 
—St. Vincent de Paule, 234 Etangsde St. Hubert . . 529 
-—de la Visitation . .29 4 Exchange . . .107,219 

Electors . . . .71 —Bills of . . . .85 

Elephant of Bastille, 281 n. Excursions. . . . viii 

Elysee Napoleon, Palace, 196 Executions. . . . 458 


Embassy, British . . 199 Exhibitions, &c. xi, 104, 472 

Emperor, the present . 56 Exhibition, annual, of fine 

—Household of. . , 61 Arts . . 104, 145, 183 

—Palace of • . .144 —Great Universal 183, 333n. 

—Stables of , . 157,331 —Horticultural. .104,105 

—-attemptson life, 185n. 218n. —of National Industry 183 n. 
Empress, the present . 56 r-of French colonial 

—Household of . . 61 Produce , . .472 








600 


Expenses of City of Paris, 

—of Catholic, Protestant, 
and Jewish Worship, ! 10 n. 
—of Funerals . . . 39 n. 

Expiatory Chapel. . . 202 

Exports from Paris . 44 n. 
Faculties . . • 92, 130 

Fahrenheit, scale turned to 
Centigrade 8c Reaumur, 21 
Faisanderie, fort . .384 

—Emperor’s . . .328 

Farm,Emperor’s, 528,535,584 
Festivals, Public . .482 

—of Environs x 

Fieschi, Infernal Machine, 253 
—head of, where preserved 392 
Fire-arms . . . . 86 

Firemen.65 

Fishing.86 

Flower-markets, 202, 252, 

372 

Flowers, sold in Paris, 37 n. 
—Exhibition of. . 104, 105 
Fontainebleau . . .508 

—best mode of visiting . ix 
—Palace of. . . .510 

—Park of . . . .516 

—Forest of. . . .517 

Force, Prison de la. 7 5, 273 
Foreign Office . . 215, 330 

—Ministers, residences of, 587 
Fortifications of Paris. . 35 

Fouilleuse . . . .535 

Foundling Hospital . .119 

Fountains . . . .28 

—des Capucins. . .178 

—Chateau d’Eau . 209 n. 

—de la Croix du Trahoir, 240 
—Cuvier . . . .425 

•—Desaix .... 298 
—Egyptienne . . .346 

—de Ste. Genevieve. . 411 
—de Crenelle St. Germain 354 

*—des Innocents . .243 

—de Louis le Grand. . 213 
—du Marche St. Marti*}, 256 


INDEX. 

4 2 Fontaine de Mars 


332 

—St. Michel . . .389 

—de Moliere. . . .228 

—delaNa'iade . . .265 

—Notre Dame . . .318 

—de la Place du Chatelet, 263 
—la Place de la Concorde, 181 
—de la Place St. Michel, 389 
—de la Place St. Sulpice, 37 2 
—Geolfroy St. Hilaire . 427 
—de Richelieu, or Louvois 221 
—de la Rue Garanciere . 373 
—du Rond Point, Ch. El. 185 
Fourneaux, or kitchens . 124 
Fourrages, Depot des . 281 

Fourriere, or pound. . 394 

France, Budget of . .62 

—Debt of . . . .62 

—Fortresses of, plans . 344 
—Government of . .56 

—Imports and Exports, 44 n. 
—Institut de . . 88, 363 

—Kings, names of . 

—Laws affecting British . 

—Mode of travelling in . 

—Posting in 
Freemasons. 

French and English money 
Fregate Ecole . 


55 
82 
2 
2 

106 
16 
321 

Freres des Ecoles Chre- 
tiennes . 101, 113, 346 

Fulbert, house of . .320 

Funerals, expenses of. 39 n. 
Furnished Apartments, 12, 87 
Gabrielle d’Estrees, house of 240 
480n., 497 

Galignani’sMessenger . 17 6 
—Library and Reading- 
Rooms . . .14, 176 

Gaillardon . . . .519. 

Galleries, see Museums 
—Private . . . . 103 

Gambling-houses,cautions, vii 
Garches . . . .536 

Garde de Paris . . .64 

-^Roy alexin 1830 . 17 6 n 




INDEX. 


601 


Garde Imperiale. . .64 

—Nationale Mobile . . 63 

—Nationale Sedentairc 64, 86 
—Gent .... 64 

Garde-Meuble de la Cou- 
ronne . . 182, 332 

Gardens, Public, 95, 150, 208 , 
379, 389, 475, 485 

Gare,la . . . .442 

—de 1’Arsenal . . .27 

—du Canal St. Martin . 281 

Gas.31 

Gaul, conquest by Caesar, 4 6 
Gendarmerie. ... 64 

General Post-Office. . 7, 246 

Gentilly . . 496, 547 n. 

Geology, Gallery of. .435 
George I V.’s monument to 
James II . . . . 544 

Gingerbread-fair . .278 

Glaciere, la . . .443 

Glass-Plate Manufactory, 24 8 
Gobelins, Manufacture des 411 
Gospel first preached at 
Paris .... 47 

Goujon, Jean, house of .38 3 
Government, Civil, Milita¬ 
ry, and Judicial . .56 

Grande Pinte . . .279 

Greek Church <. . 116, 2o4 

Grenelle . . . .447 

Grenier de Reserve . .294 

—aSel.252 

Guards, National . 64, 86 

Guinches,Guinguettes. . 482 
Gymnastics, School . .103 

Hackney Coaches . . 4 

Halles Centrales. . .243 

Halle au Ble. . . .241 

—aux Cuirs. . . .426 

—aux Draps . . .243 

—aux Yins . . .425 

Ham-fair . . . .294 

Helo'iseand Abelard, 320, 45 5 
Henry IV., where stabbed 242 
•^Statues, of . ,108,286 


Henry IV., mask of. . 404 
Hippodromes 190,472,488,584 
Historical Notice of Paris, 46 
Horticultural Exhibit. 104 105 
—Establishment of City . 190 
Horses, Duty on . . 24 

—Market for . . .441 

—Races . 483, 488, 499 

—Studs of 483, 499, 521,581 
Hospices . . . .118 

—Ste Anne. . . .123 

—Devillas . . . 119, 519 

—des Enfants Assistes, 119 417 
—des Orphelins. . .121 

—d’Enghien. . . 123, 279 

—Eugenie Napoleon. . 122 
—des Incurables, H. 121, 442 
—des Incurables, F. 121, 34 6 
—Leprince . .119, 332 

—Marie-Therese. . .122 

—des Menages . 118, 519 

—St. Michel . . . 123 

—deStePerine. .118,189 
—des Quinze-Vingts, 121, 283 
—de la Reconnaissance 123,536 
—de la Rochefoucauld . 119 
—de la Salpetriere (Vieil- 
lesse) . 36, 123, 141, 440 

—des Invalides Civils . 58 5 
Hospitals . . . 117, 136 

—Bureau for admission, 136 
—Financial and Statisti¬ 
cal condition . . 136 n. 

—Military 142, 332, 418, 586 
—St. Antoine . . 139, 278 

—Beaujon. . . 139, 195 

—de Bicetre . . 36, 496 

—de Charenton. . .499 

—de la Charite . 139, 355 

—Clinique . . 141, 393 

—Cochin. . . 140, 415 

—desEnfansMalades, 141, 337 
—English . . . .128 

—Ste-Eugenie . . 141 > 283 

—Hotel-Dieu. . 138, 308 
—Jewish . « . 142, 279. 







602 

Hopital Lariboisicre 139, 

—Lourcine . . 140 , 413 

—St. Louis . 36, 140, 251 
—deMadameNecker, 139, 337 
—de la Maternite. . .135 

—St. Mery. . . .142 

—du Midi . . . 140, 415 

—de la Pitie. . . 139, 426 

—duValdeGrace35, 141, 418 
Hotel des Affaires Etran- 
geres . 34, 59, 215, 330 

—des Archives . . 34, 2 65 

—de Mad. Adelaide. . 348 
—Aguado . . . .219 

—d’Aumont . . .293 

—Beauveau . . .196 

—de Biron. . . .34 6 

—Borghese. . . .199 

—of British Embassy. 34,199 
—de Carnavalet. . .273 

—du ChMelet . . .346 

—de Chatillon . 273, 347 

—de Cluny. . . .385 

—de Colbert . . .396 

—Demidoff. . . .351 

—Dieu. 

—des Finances . 

—Forbin Janson 
—de Gaucher . 

—de Grammont. 

—Grand .... 

—d’Herbouville. 

—de Hollande . 

—dela Houze . 

—des Invalides. . 35, 

—de Jassaud 
—Lambert. 

—de Lamoignon 
—Lavallette 

—de la Legion d’Honneur. 

—du Louvre 
—de Luynes 
—dela Marine . 

—du Marechal d’Ancre . 

—Meunce . . .12, 


INDEX. 

234 Hotel de l’Instruct. Publ.. 348 


-Ministere de l’lnterieur, 196 
-des Travaux Publ. 351 


—des Monnaies. 
—Monaco . 

—Montbazon . 
—de Montholon. 
—de Nesle. 

—de Nesmond . 
—of 
Orleans 
—d’Orsay 
—Pereire 


34, 


359 
. 348 
241 ft. 
. 231 
. 241 
. 396 


Duchess dowager of 


—Perigord. 


36, 

34, 


. 351 
. 348 
. 199 
. 351 

—Pontalba. . . .199 

—Ponthieu. . . 241 ft. 

—desPostes. . . . 246 

—1 aPrefecture dePolice ,34,306 
—de Praslin. . . .321 

—du President du Corps 
Legislate . . .330 

—of Princess Mathilde . 196 
—of Queen Christina. . 196 


—de Rambouillet 
—de la Reyniere. 

—de Rothschild 
—de St. Aignan. 

—de St. Paul . 

—de Savoisi 
—of Duchess of Savoy 
—de Sens . 

—de Soissons . 

—de Soubise . 

—Sully 

—Talleyrand . 

—de M. Thiers 
—du Timbre 
—de Toulouse . 

—de la Trcmouille 
—du Tresorier . 

—d’Uzcs . 

—de Vendome . 

—de Ville . 

—of Turenne . 
Hotels, furnished 
—Laws on . 


178, 


155 ft. 

. 199 
218 
265 
296 
273 
373 
. 296 
. 242 
. 265 
. 294 
. 178 
. 216 
. 231 
230, 381 
. 366 
. 306 
. 231 
. 382 
284 
382 
588 
87 


34, 

12 , 



index. 


Household, Imperial. . 61 

Houses, curious, 216, 242, 351 
373, 425 

—of Mine. Alboni . .187 

—of Clement Marot . . 373 

—and streets . . .30 

Huissiers . . . .68 

Hydraulic Machines, 188, 520 
Ice-houses . . . 492, 547 

lie de la Cite . . 29, 297 

des Cygnes . . 332 n. 

—St. Louis. . . 29, 318 

—Louviers. . . .295 

—aux Vaches . . .318 

Imperial Prince. . 56 n. 

Imprimerie Imperiale . 269 

Independents, French. . 116 
Infant schools . . .102 

Infanticides . . 119n. 

Infernal MachineofFieschi 253 
—of Cadoudal . . .158 

Innkeepers, Laws on, . 8 7 

Inns, French. . . .12 

Institut de France . .88 

—d’Afrique. . . .104 

—Historique. . . .104 

Institutions and Pensions. 100 
—Charitable, 35, 1 17, 124, 

546, 585 
—Religious. 

Instruction Primaire 
—Secondaire 
—Speciale . 

—Superieure 
Interpreters. 

Invalides, Hotel des, 35, 

Issy. 

Ivry 
Janies 
of . 

Jardin 


603 

Joan of Arc, anecdote of 210 n. 

502 

483 
9 

43 

484 
68 
72 
65 

34, 298 
188,525 
55 
399 


—where made prisoner . 
Jockey-club, French. 14, 
Journals, Postage for 
Journeymen of Paris 
Joutes sur l’eau. 

Juges de Paix . 

Jurors . 

Justice, Courts of. 

—Palais de 
King of Rome, palaces 
Kings of France, list of 
Knights Hospitallers. 

Lafayette, burial-place of, 279 
Lamartine, courage of 28 5 n. 
Laiterie de la Reine . 5 27 
Lartoire . . . .529 

Law, Faculty of .93 

—School of . . .403 

Laws affecting British Re¬ 
sidents. . . 82 to 88 

Lazarists. . 79, 23 6, 34 6 
Lease, form of a. . . 88 

Lectures, Public 93 to 95, 97, 
105, 131, 138 to 141,-260, 
391 , 398, 428 

Lcdru-Rollin, escape of, 257 n. 


Legends 


112 
101 
97 
99 
92 
13 
341 
. 519 
. 442 

II., burial place 
410, 4 23, 424, 54 5 
Rotanique de l’E- 
cole de Medecine . .382 

Jardin d’Acclimatation 493 
—des Plantes . 34, 95, 427 
Jeux de Paume . 483, 579 

Jewish Persuasion . .116 


247 n. 371 n. 
. 61,324 
. 57 


Legion-d’Honneur 
Legislative Rody 
—Palace of . . .324 

Letters, and Letter-boxes, 8 
—Faculty of . .93 

Libraries, Public . .104 

—Circulating . . .14 

Library, Galignani’s . 14, 17 6 
Lighting of Paris . . 31?i. 

Literary Institutions. . 88 

—Societies. . . .104 

Lodgings in Paris . 12, 87 

Lodgings for Workmen, 44 n. 
233, 280 

London, conveyances from 2 
Longchamps . . 186, 490 

Longevity in Paris . .41 

Longitudes, Bureau des, 91 








604 


INDEX. 


Louis, St., Heart of .306 ft. 
Louis XIII., Statue of .274 
Louis XIV., Statue of .229 
Louis XVI., Marie Antoi¬ 
nette, place of execution 18 2 
Louis XVII, supposed bu¬ 
rial places of . 278, 316 
Louis Philippe . 145 n. 182 
—Library . . . .208 

Louvre, Palace of the old 158 
—attack of, in July, 159 ft. 
—Galleries of the . .161 

—New . . . .155 

Luggage, Passengers’ . 2, 21 
Lunatic Hospitals 141,496,499 
Lutheran Churches, 113, 272 
Luxembourg, Palace of the 37 4 
—Gallery of the. . .378 

—Garden of the. 

—Library of the 
—le Petit . 

Luxor, Obelisk of 
Lycee Bonaparte 
—Charlemagne . 

—St. Louis. 

—Louis le Grand 
—Napoleon. 

—du Prince Imperial 
Lyceums . 

Madrid 

Magazine of Military Ac¬ 
coutrements . 

—du Mobilier de la Cou- 
ronne . . . 182, 

Mahometan Cemetery 
Mail, Fruit Market. 

Maintenon .... 
Mairies, 71, 240,254,373,403 
442 

Maison d’Accouchement. 

415 

—d’Arret de la Garde Na¬ 
tional .... 
-—d’Arret militaire . 
•r-Centrale d’Education 
correctionnclle . 81, 458 


. 379 
377 ft. 
. 373 
. 180 
98,215 
98,293 
98,383 
98, 400 
98,408 
. 99 

. 97 

. 493 


332 

332 

458 

439 

519 


13' 


189 

381 


Maison de la 
d’Or. . . 

—des Diaconesses 
—Doree 
—d’Enghien 


Couronne 
. . . 366 

. 126 
. 219 
123, 279 


—Eugenie Napoleon . 122 

—de Francois I. . .186 

—de Clement Marot. . 373 

—des Hospitalieres . .354 

—de Retraite Israelite . 2 79 

—Imp. de Sante. 142, 236 
—de St. Denis . . .102 

—Scipion . . . .426 

—St. Casimir . 126, 442 

—du Pont de Fer . .231 

—pour Enfants Delaisses, 126 
Maisons-Laffitte. . .519 

Malesherbes, monument to 3 o 1 
Malmaison . . . .519 

Manufacture des Glaces, 248 
—des Gobelins . . 44, 411 

—de Porcelaine. . 44, 548 

—Imp. des Tabacs . 44, 330 
Manufactures of Paris. . 44 

Marat, where stabbed. . 393 
—where buried . . . 403 

Marche, La, races . 4 83, 536 
Marche des Augustins. . 393 
—des Blancs-Manteaux , 27 2 
—des Cannes . . .396 

—du Chateau d’Eau. .252 

—aux Chevaux . . ,441 

—aux Chiens. . . . 441 

—aux Fleurs, 202, 252, 372 
—aux Fruits (the Mail), . 439 
—St. Germain . . .369 

—des Ilerboristes. . .245 

—St. Ilonore . . .212 

—des Innocents. . .243 

—St. Jean .... 273 
—St. Joseph . . .231 

—de la Madeleine . .202 

—St. Martin . . .255 

—aux Oi6eaux . . .256 

—au Pain .... 245 
—des Prouvaires , .242 




INDEX 


605 


Marche da Temple ‘. .253 

—du Vieux Linge . .2 53 

—a la Volaille . . 243 n. 


Marie Antoinette’s prison 

302 

Markets .... 

37 

Marly. 

520 

Marriages, Laws on. 

82 

Mary Queen of Scots 

409 

Masked Balls . 

476 

Mass, high, to attend 
Massacre of St. Barthe- 

V 


lemy, 50, 159, 238, 241 11 . 
Mats de Cocagne . .484 

Measures and Weights . 17 

—French and English 
compared . . 17 to 20 

Medals, 62, 65 n., 7 4 n., 227, 
359 


Minister of Finances . . 59 

—for Foreign Affairs, 59, 330 
—of the Imperial Household 

and Fine Arts . . 59 

—of the Interior 60, 196, 348 
—of Justice and Public 
Worship . . .60 

—Marine and Colonies 59, 182 
—Public Instruction 60, 348 
—Agriculture,Commerce, 
and Public Works, 60, 351 
—of State .... 59 

—of War . . .59, 350 

Mint.359 

Mints in France . 15 n. 

Miracles . . 247 n. 37 in. 

Models, Cabinets of, 258, 363, 
368 


Medecine,Ecole Pratique de 132 
Medical Institutions . . 130 

—Concours . . .133 

—School of Paris . .130 

—Societies . . .143 

—Statistical Returns . 13 4 n. 

Menageries. . 429, 493 

Meuilmontant . . .453 

Meridian Line, French .416 
Messageries Imperiales, 2, 231 
Metrical System . .17 

Mettray, colony of . . 81 

Meudon . . . .520 

Meurice’s Hotel . 12, 17 6 
Midwifery, School for . 135 
Military Establishment . 63 

—Camp . . . .505 

—Hospitals, 141, 332, 418, 

586 

—Prisons . . . 74, 381 

—Schools . 95, 96, 536, 584 
Mineralogy, Cabinets of . 257 
382, 435 

Ministers, Foreign . . 587 

—Council of . . . .59 

—of Charles X., prison 
in which confined 373 n. 
582 n. 


Moliere, where born. . 242 
Moliere, house he died in . 229 
Monceaux, Parc de . .203 

Money, English, value of 16 
Mont de Piete . 128, 271 

Mont Valerien . . .522 


Montfaucon, Poudrette de45 In. 
Montbazon, Duchess, 241 n. 
Montyon Prizes . .90 

Montmartre . . .448 

—Cemetery of . . .448 

Montmorency . , .522 

Montrouge . . . .443 

Monument to Mgr. Affre. 315 
—to Bichat . . .391 

—to Cuvier . . .425 

—to Cardinal de Belloy . 316 
—to Corneille . . .210 

—to Damesme . . .508 

—to Desaix . . . 298 


—to Abbe de l’Epee, 212, 578 
—to Duke d’Enghien . 582 
—to Count d’Harcourt . 316 
—to General Hoche . .578 

—to Queen Hortense . 529 
—to James II. . 410, 544 
—toEmpr. Josephine 191,529 
—toLarrey. . . .418 









to Males- 


74 


22 


458 

189 


161 , 


504 


606 

Monument 

herbes . . . .301 
—to Marshal Ney . .418 
—to Moliere. . . .2 28 
—to Duke of Orleans 559, 57 0 
—to Cardinal Richelieu 384 
Morgue, la . 

Mortefontaine . 

Mosque 
Muette, La . 

Musee des Antiques, 

—Americain. 

—d’Artillerie 
—des Arts et Metiers 
—Assyrien 
—Campana 
—de la Colonnade 
—Colonial 
—des Dessins . 

—Dupuytren . 

•—Egyptien. 

—Ethnographique 
*—Gallo-Romain 
—Grec et Romain 


506 

385 


103, 


GO, 


INDEX. 

Museum of Antiquity, 103, 
1G1,167,168,227,385,504 
—of ancient armour. 

—of Art, 103, 164, 378, 

386, 504 

—Natural History, 95, 

434 

—of Phrenology. 

Musical Societies. 

—Instruments, collection 
Nanterre .... 
Napoleon’s residences 215,358 
—Statue . . . .343 

—Tomb . . . .339 

National Assembly, attack 
upon . . . 325 ?i. 

National Guard, 63, 86, 189 
Naturalization, law on 


433 

105 

282 

522 


134, 

167, 


173 
352 
256 

174 

173 

170 
472 

171 
390 

174 

172 
543 
168 


Navy. 

News Rooms. 
Neuilly. 

Ney, Marshal 
Notaries 


59, 62, 
. 14, 


8 5 
182 
176 
. 523 
418, 4 57 
68, 263 


—d’Histoire naturelle, 95, 430 


Notre Dame, Cathedral of, 309 

. 315 n. 


—de 1’IIotel de Cluny. 


-Sacking of. 


—du Luxembourg 


—de la Marine 
—del’Ecole de Medecine, 
—des Medailles 
—de Mineralogie . 382, 
—Monetaire 

—desMonumcnts Francais 

a 

—Municipal 


385 

378 

171 

391 

227 

435 

359 

365 

274 


—Napoleon 111. 166, 170, 17 3 


Notre Dame de Lorette . 
Nouvelle Athene* 

N ursery Grounds, 190, 

Nurses, Office for . 
Obelisk from Luxor. 
Observatory. . 34, 91, 
Officiers de Sante. 
Omnibuses . .6, 

Opera, invention of . 


216 
216 
429 
127 
180 
415 
! 134 
187 n. 
460 ?l. 


—de Pierrefonds 
—de la Renaissance. 

—Sauvageot 

—de Sculpture Moderne, 
—de Sculpture Ancienne, 
—Sommerard . 

—des Souverains 
—Standish . 

—des Tableaux. 
Museums . 

—of Anatomy 


506 
175 
170 
175 
161 
. 38 5 
. . 168 
. 170 
. . 164 

. . 103 

.390,391 


213 

292 


271 


570 


—bouse, new . 

Oratory, remarkable 
Orleans, Duke, brother of 
Charles VI., murder of, 

—Duke of, son of Louis 
Philippe, statue of, 1 60 ?j 
— death of. . . 193 n. 

—Duchess of, at the Cham¬ 
ber of Deputies . 327 n. 

Orphan asylum 119, 121, 417 
Orphelinat du Prince Im¬ 
perial . . . .122 



INDEX* 


Corps 


Orpheonistes . . .474 

Orsay, Comte d’, tomb of, 545 
Ouvroirs .... 
Packets, steam 
Pagan Worship at Paris, 

Palaces. 

Palais Archiepiscopal 317 
—des Beaux Arts 
—Bourbon. . .33, 

—Cardinal . . 205, 

—du Corps Legislatif 
—Elysee Napoleon . 33, 

—de 1’Industrie 
—de l’lnstitut . 

—de Justice . .32, 

—de la Legion d’Honneur, 

—du Vieux Louvre . 32, 

—du Nouveau Louvre . 

—du Luxembourg . 32, 

—du Min. de la Marine, 

—Pompeien 
—du President du 
legislatif 

—du quai d’Orsay 
— ltoyal 
—du Senat 
—des Thermes . 

■—des Tournelles 
—des Tuileries . 

Pantheon . 

Paris, arrival at 
—Academy of . 

—Arrondissements of 
—Area of . 

—Basin, its geology 
—Civil Administration . 

—Charitable institutions, 

117 to 

—Churches of . .33, 

—Circumference of . 

—Climate of. 

—Commerce of. 

—Commercial Establishm. 

—Communal do. 

—Consumption of. . 

—Description of, by Walks, 144 


607 

587 


32, 

32, 

33, 


101 
. 2 
47 
32 
346 
365 
324 
269 
324 
196 
183 
362 
298 
324 
158 
155 
374 
182 
187 

330 

321 

205 

374 

388 

275 

144 

400 

2 

92 

4 

25 

25 

69 
35 

124 

112 

25 

25 

43 

106 

70 
45 


—Directory. . » 

—Distance of, from towns 
of Europe and France. 25 
—Electors . . . .71 

—Environs of . . .495 

—Expense of the popula¬ 
tion of . . . . 45 n. 

—Expenditure of . .42 

—Exports of . . . 44 n. 

—Fortifications of . . 35 

—History of. . 46, 317 n. 

—Houses of . . .30 

—Islands of. 26, 295, 297,318, 
332 n. 

—Manufactures of . .44 

—Military Government of 63 
—Modern embellishments 54 
—Octroi Duties . .42 

—Physical Statistics of . 24 

—Police of. . . .72 

—Population of. . .40 

—Prisons of . . 7 4 to 81 

—Public Institutions of, 88 
—Quarries of . . 444 n. 

—Revenues of . . .42 

—Rivers of. . . .26 

—Routes to ... 2 

—Situation of . . .24 

—Social Statistics . .40 

—Societies, divers, in, 104 to 


106, 116, 124 to 127, 142. 


—Streets of. 

—Taxes of. ... 
—Treasury of the City of, 
—Views, finest, of, 17 8, 
262, 282, 312ft., 403 
Park ofMonceaux 
—of Boulogne . 

—of Vesinet 
—of Chaumont. 

—of Montsouris 
Parlements, ancient 
Parvis Notre Dame 
Passage Choiseul. 

—Colbert . . .37, 
—dc Lorme . .37, 


30 

42 

71 

193 

203 

486 

546 

451 

443 

301 

308 

213 

229 

176 



608 

INDEX. 


Passage du Havre 

. 215 Place de la Concorde, 

or 

—Jouffroy. 

37, 219 Louis XV . 

36, 179 

—de la Madeleine . 

. 202 -history of 

. 182 

—de l’Opera 

. 219 —du Chatelet . 

. 262 

—des Panoramas . 

37, 2 1 9 —Dauphine. 

. 298 

—du Pont-Neuf. 

. 358 ■—de Greve. 

. 290 

—des Princes . 

. 37 —Lafayette. 

. 235 

—du Saumon . 

37, 247 —Louvois . 

. 221 

—Verdeau . 

37, 219 —Maubert . 

. 396 

—Vero-Dodat . 

37, 241 —Napoleon III. 

. 155 

—Vivienne. 

37, 229 —de Notre Dame 

. 308 

Passports . 

1 •—du Palais Bourbon 

. 329 

Passy .... 

. 189 —du Palais Royal . 

. 209 

—Artesian well of . 

. 190 —Royale . 

36, 275 

Patents. 

. 86 —du Trone. . 278, 48 2 

Pauperism. 

127 n. —Valhubert 

. 439 

Pawnbrokers 

128, 271 —Vauban . 

. 337 

Peers, Chamber of . 

. 374 —Vendome 

36, 176 

Pentemont, le . 

114,348 —des Victoires . 

36, 229 

Pensions or schools . 

. 100 —des Vosges 

. 275 

Pepin, house of . 

. 283 Poissy. . . . 

. 524 

—Grave of 

. 447 Police, Administration of the 72 

Pere La Chaise, Cemetery, 453 —Commissaires de . 

. 73 

—Amount expended in, 458 n. —Prefecture de. 

72, 299 


Periodical Exhibitions . 104 —Office for carriages . 0 

Perth, Duke of. Monument 410 Polytechnic School, . 9 5, 410 
Pharmacie Centrale, 14 2, 396 Pompe a feu de Chaillot, 28 n., 
—Militaire . . . .33 2 188 


—Ecole de . . 135, 414 

Physical Statistics . .24 

Physicians, number of, 134 n. 
—list of ... 589 

Pichegru, monument of . 427 

Picpus, Cemetery of. . 279 

Pierrefonds. . . .505 

Pig-market . . .449 

Places, public squares . 36 

—that ought to be seen . iii 
—of Historical Note. . 55 

—Memorable for Scenes 
of Popular Disturbance, 55 
—of Public Amusement, 459 
Place des Arts et Metiers. 260 
—de la Bastille . . .281 

—de la Bourse . . .219 

—du Carrousel . . 36, 153 


—du Gros Caillou, 28 n., 331 
Pompes Funebres 39 n., 25 2 
Pont del’Alma . 187, 331 

—de l’Archeveche . .318 

•—d’Arcole. . . .320 

—des Arts . . . .364 

—d’Austerlitz. . . .439 

—de Bercy, or de la Gare, 280 
—du Canal St. Martin, . 276 
—Carrousel, or Sts. Peres, 369 
—au Change . . .306 

—Concorde, or Louis XVI 324 
—de Constantine . .319 

—au Double. . . .309 

—del’Estacade . . .296 

—des Invalides .186, 330 
—de Iena . . . .18 

—de Solferino . . .153 







INDEX. 


609 


Font Louis Philippe. 

• 

318 

Prison de l’Abbaye, . 

. 78 

—Marie 

• 

320 

— de la Conciergerie, 

78, 302 

—St. Michel 

• 

307 

—des Condamnes. . 

80, 458 

— St. Louis 

• 

318 

—for Debtors . 

78, 216 

—Napoleon 

« 

280 

— de la Force . 

7 5, 273 

• —Neuf. 

• 

297 

—de la Nouvelle Force,. 75 

- -Notre Dame . 

• 

321 

—pour JeunesDetenus, 81, 458 

—Petit 

• 

307 

—de St. Lazare. 

79, 236 

—Royal 

• 

321 

—des Madelonnettes. 

77,415 

—de la Tournelle . 

• 

319 

—of Marie Antoinette 

. 302 

Pont-de-St.-Maur. 


524 

—de Ste. Pelagie. . 

78, 426 

Pope Pius VII., where de- 


—Mazas 

7 5, 280 

tained by Napoleon 

• 

509 

—Military . .78, 

381, 439 

Population of Paris . 

• 

40 

—de la Prefecture . 

78, 303 

—of France. 

41 n. 

Prisoners at Vincennes 581 n. 

Porcelain Manufactory 

• 

548 

Private Museums. 

. 103 

V)rt d’Armes. . 

• 

86 

—Edifices . 

. 31 

•orts or Wharfs. 

• 

29 

—Libraries. 

. 104 

•orte St. Denis . 

# 

236 

Professors, list of 

590 

—St. Bernard . 

• 

394 

—agreges . 

. 94 

—Maillot . 

# 

193 

Promenades. 

. 484 

—St. Martin. . 

# 

249 

—of Longchamps 

. 186 

Post Office . 

7, 

246 

Protestant Churches, 

113 to 

-Statistics of . 

. ion. 

1 15, 190, 199, 219, 241, 

'ost-llorses, Office for, 

• 

71 

272, 294, 348 



'osting in France 
oudrettedeMontfaucon451 n. 
re aux Clercs . 348, 356 

-Catelan . . . . 492 

-St. Gervais . . .524 

refecture of Department, 69 
-Conseil de . .69 

-of Police, . 34, 71, 303 
’remonstratensian Monks, 390 
•residentof Legisl. Body, 58 
—Palace of. . . .330 

•nests and Prelates . 116 n. 
•rinceNapoleon’s household 61 
—Palace . . . .207 

—of Wales, wager with 
Count d’Artois . .493 

—Imperial. . . .5 on 

~>rin. Matilda’s household . 61 

Prin. Clotilda’shousehold 61 
Printing Office, Imp. 34, 269 
Prisons.74 


2 —Schools 


11 


Prud’hommes, Council, 68,306 
Public Amusements . . 459 

—Buildings. . . .34 

—Coaches . . . . 2, 4 

—Debt.62 

—Festivals. . . .482 

—Gardens . . . 485,486 

—Institutions . . .88 

—Instruction . . 60, 91 

—Libraries. . . .104 

—Museums, see Musees . 103 
—Promenades . . .484 

—Schools, of Medicine . 130 
—W orks, Admi nistration, 60 
Publications of Academic, 90 n. 
Quarries under Paris, 444 n. 
Quarters of Paris . . 4 

Quartier Latin . . .396 

Quays, 29, 319, 358, 369,439 
Rabelais’arotto. . .526 






Races . 483, 488, 

499, 

584 

—place where he died 

. 508 

Railroads . 

• 

2 

Routes from coast to Paris, 2 

—Corbeil . 

3, 

439 

Rue du Banquet. 

. 190 

— St. Germain . 

2, 

203 

—des Cannes . 

. 396 

— Lyons . 

3, 

23 0 

—des Ecoles 

. 385 

—Northern. 

3, 

233 

—du Fouarre 

. 396 

—Orleans . 

3j 

439 

—de Rivoli. 

. 17 5 

—Rouen 

2, 

203 

Rueil . . 

. 529 

—Sceaux . 

3, 

54 7 

St. Cloud . 

. 529 

—Strasburg. 

3, 

250 

—Fete of . . 

. 535 

—Versailles. 

2, 

203 

—Park of . 

. 534 

—Vincennes 

3, 

283 

St. Cyr. 

. 536 

—Western. . 3, 203, 

381 

St. Denis ; 

; 536 

—all round Paris . 

3, 

451 

—Maison de. . 102, 54 5 

Ranee, Abbe de 

24 In. 

St. Germain en Laye 

. 543 

Rainey 


52 4 

—Gallery of 

. 543 

Rambouillet. 


525 

St. James . 

. 493 

— Palace of 


525 

St. Leu Tavernay 

. 54 7 

—Park of . 


527 

St. Maude . 

. 585 

— Imperial farm 


528 

St. Ouen 

. 547 

Ravaillac, remains of 

303 n. 

Ste. Chapelle 

. 304 

Reading-Rooms . 

14, 

170 

Salaries o r Prelates . 

lion. 

Regattas 


4 84 

Salle du Senat . 

. 376 

Regnard, where born 


243 

—des Etats. 

. 165 

Religious Institutions. 

11 i 

Salles d’Asile 

. 102 

—Armenian, Greek . 


1 16 

Salpetriere, Hospice . 

36, 123 

—Jewish . 


116 

141, 440 


—Protestant 


113 

Salt, Entrepot for 

. 252 

—Homish . 


1 1 1 

Sapeurs Pompiers 

. 65 

Reservoirs, 28, 242, 

381, 

417 

Sauvageot, Collection 

. 170 

424 



Savings’ Bank . 

. 129 

—remarkable . 

, 

417 

Savonnerie, la . 

. 412 

Restaurateurs 


13 

Scarron, house of 

291 n. 

Reviews, Military 


483 

Sceaux. 

. 547 

Rewards to Exhibitor 

s, 333 n. 

Schools, see Ecoles, Lycees, 94 

Richelieu, head of 

384 n. 

Schools, Special 

. 9 5 j 

Riding Schools. 

103, 

157 

—British free. . 

. 115 

Rifle-Matches 

484, 

583 

—of Rue Vaugirard . 

. 381 

Rivers of Paris. 

• 

26 

Sciences, Faculty of. 

. 92 

Rocking stones . 


44 5 

Scientific Institutions. 

. 89 

RomainvilJe. 

# 

529 

—Societies . . 104, 143 

Romish Clergy, cost of, 116 n. 

Sculpture, Ateliers de 

. 332 

— how compost'd. . 

1 

6 n. 

— American 

. 173 

Rossini, house of # 

9 

189 

— Ancient . 

. 161 

Rothschild’s hotels . 

9 

218 

— Assyrian. 

. 174 

Rousseau,burial-placeof, 40 2 n. 

—Egyptian. 

. 174 












INDEX. 


Gil 


Secondary Instruction for 
Girls . f . .100 

Secours aux Noyes, &c. 74 

— a Domicile. . . . 127 

Seine, the River. . . 2G 

Semina ire des Irlandais, 4 24 
—des Missions Etiangeres 11 2 

—Petit.112 

—du St. Esprit. .113, 424 
—de St. Firmiu. . . 394 

—de St. Nicolas du Cliar- 
donnct . . .112,395 

—de St. Sulpice. .112,373 

Senate. . . 50 

—Palace of. . . .374 

Sentimental Journey, site 
of one of the scenes in, 358 
Sergents de Ville . .05 

Servants. . . . 13, 87 

Sevres.54 8 

Sewers, System of . . 40 

Shooting . . . .80 

Sibour, Archbishop . 408 n. 

Sisters of Charity, R.C. 112 
—Protestant. . . .120 

Skating. . . . .484 

SI augh ter-Houses, see A ba t- 

toirs .39 

Smoking-rooms . . . 14 

Social Statistics. . .40 

Societe du Prince Imper. 122 
Societies, Agricultural . 100 
—Benevolent, 8 1, 123 to 127 
—Medical . . . .142 

—for Races. . . 14,483 

—Religious. . . .110 

—Scientific, Literary, 104, 14 2 
Sceurs de la Charite . .112 

Soirees, Diplomatic, &c. vii 
Sorbonne, the . 34, 9 2, 383 
Souricieres . . .303 

Sports . 483 

Squares, see Places. 

Stables, Emperor’s, . 157, 331 
Staffs, Military , 04 

Stamp Office . . 71, 231 


State, Council of. . .58 

—Carriages . . .57 7 

Statistics of Paris, Social, 40 
—Physical.... 24 

Statue of Henry IV. 28 0, 297 
—of Louis XIII. . .275 

—of Louis XIV. . 229, 285 
—of Dukeof Orleans, 160n. 570 
—of Marshal Ney . . 418 

—of Prince Eugene . . 277 

Steam packets from England 2 

Steeple-chases . . .483 

Streets, length of . . 30n. 

Streets and houses . . 30 

—Interesting to Antiqua¬ 
rians, 205, 273, 388, 390 
393, 423 

Students, Medical. . . 130 

—Internes. . . 133 n. 

—number of . .94 

—cost of education . .131 

Subsistances militaires. . 188 
Sun-dial,curious, 24 2, 273,371 

Suresne.551 

Surgeons, list of . . 589 

Suspension-bridges . .319 

Swimming Schools . 38, 319 

Swiss Church . . .115 

Synagogue . 1 10,233, 255 

Talleyrand, residence of, 178 
Tapestry Manufactory. . 411 
Taxes of Paris . . .42 

—indirect for all France, 43 n. 
Teachers, list of. . .590 

Telegraphs . . . .11 

Templars, order of . 253 n. 

Temple, Palais du . .253 

Tennis Courts, 152, 483, 579 
Theatres . . . .459 

—Description of, 403 to 47 2 
—Receipts of. . .461 n. 

—Statistics of . . 460 n. 

—Sum levied on Receipts 
of, for the Hospitals. . 461 
Theatres of annexed Com¬ 
munes . . , .472 


612 


INDEX. 


Theology, Faculty of. .93 
Thermes, Palais des. . 388 
Thermometric Scales. . 21 

Thiers, residence of M. . 216 
Tickets, how to obtain . iv 
Tir National . . .583 

Tobacco, Manufactory . 330 


—Sale of . . . 45, 46 

Tomb of King of Poland, 358 
—of King John's daughter 295 n. 
—of Cardinal Richelieu . 384 
—of Countess of Blessing- 
ton and Count d’Orsay. 546 
—of James II.. . 410, 544 

—of James Duke of Douglas 357 
—of Lafayette . . .279 

—of Napoleon . . .339 

—of Rousseau . . 402 n. 

—of Voltaire. . . 402 n. 

Tour de St. Jean de Latran 399 
—de Jean Sans Peur . 247' 
—St. JacquesBoucherie33, 262 


—de Nesle, site of . .363 

Tournelle, la. . . . 393 

Trademarks . . .86 

Tradesmen, list of . .590 

—Licenses of . . .44 n. 

Traiteurs . . . .13 

Treasury, Imperial . .178 

—of the City of Paris. . 71 
Trianon, Grand. . .575 

—Petit.57 7 


Tribunals . , 34, 65 to 68 

Tribunal de Commerce 67, 306 
—des Conflits . . .373 

—de Premiere Instance . 67 

—de Simple Police . . 67 

Triumphal Arches, 35, 154, 
191, 236, 249 

—Columns, 35, 177, 263, 278, 
282 

Trocadero, the . . .188 
Tuileries, Palace of Ihe . 144 


Tuileries Garden . 150, 485 

Turrets, 273, 296, 390, 393 
Universal Exhibition 183, 332 
University of France. . 91 

Valets de Place . . .13 

Vaugirard . . . .447 

Vehicles, Public . . 2, 4, 6 

—to Environs, see Preface. 
Versailles . . . .552 

—Best mode of visiting, viii 
—Gardens of. . . .570 

—Museum of. . . .557 

—Palace of. . . .553 

—Town of. . . ,578 

Vesinet .... 546 
Veterinary School. . . 495 

Views of Paris, see Paris. 
—fine 448, 452, 538 n., 581 
Vi lie d’Avray . . .536 

Villette, la. . . .449 

Villeneuve l’fitang . . 535 

Vincennes . . . .580 

—park of . . . .585 

—Prisoners confined at, 581 n. 
—Asylum at . . .585 

—Military hospital at .586 
Visconti, Monument to .455 
Voltaire, wdiere he died, 369 
—tomb of . . . 402 n. 

—birth-place of. . .501 

Wages in Paris . . .44 

Walks, Public . . .484 

Water, Purified. . . 296 

Weights, French and Eng¬ 
lish. . . . 17 to 

Wesleyan Chapel. 

Wills, Laws on . . .83 

Wine Market . . .425 

W orkmen, houses for, 45 n. ,233 
280, 546, 587 

Workmen’s Societies. . 127 
Workwomen,asylum for . 546 
Zoology, gallery of . , 434 


20 

115 






LIST OF THE STREETS, SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 


EXPLANATION. 

The capital letter and figure placed after the name of the street indicates 
<e part of the map in which it is found; for example, if you wish to find 
le du Colys^e, C. 2 , draw your finger down under the letter C., from 
e lop of the map, till it arrives opposite the figure 2, between the lines 
which is rue du Colysde. 


Bd. boulevard. 
Av. avenue. 
Pass, passage 
Sq. square. 

PI. place. 

Imp. impasse. 


Abbaye (de P), Mont¬ 
martre, D. E. 4. 

Abbaye (de l 3 ), D. 4. 
Abbaye (place de P), D. 4. 
Abb6 de l 3 Ep6e, E. 5. 
Abbeville (d 3 ), E. 2. 
Aboukir, E. 3- 
Acacias (des) Relit., E. 1. 
Acacias, Ternes, B. 2. 
Affre, F. 1. 

Aguesseau (d 3 ), C. 2. 
Aiguillerie (de P), E. 3. 
Albouy, F. 2. 

Alger (d 3 ), D. 3. 

Alibcrt, F. 2. 

Aligre (d 3 ), G. 5. 
Allemagne (d 3 ), G. H. 1. 
Alleray (d 3 ), B. C. 6. 

Alma (Bd. de P) B. 2. 3. 
Alma (Pont de P) B. 3. 
Amandiers - Popincourt 
(des).G. H. 3. 

Amandiers (des), Saiute- 
Genevieve, E. 5. 

J Amandiers (bd.), F. G. 3. 
Amboise (d 3 ), E. 2. 
Ambroise Pare, E. 4. 
Ambroise (St-), G. 3. 
Ameiie, C. 4. 

Amelot, G. 3. 

Amsterdam (d 3 ), D. 4.2. 
Anastase (St-), F. 3. 
Ancieonc-Com^die, E. 4. 


ABBREVIATIONS. 

Ch. chcmin. 

Mar. marais. 

Fg. faubourg. 

Bat. Batignolles. 

Ter. Ternes. 

Relit. Rocbechouart. 


Ancre (passage de P), E. 3. 
Andr6-des-.4rts (St.-), E. 4. 
Andre (St.-) av., A. 4. 
Andre-des-Arts (place St-), 
E. 4. 

Angladc (de P), D. 3. 
Anglais (des), E. 4. 
Anglaises (des), E. G. 
Angouleme (d 3 ), F. 3. 
Angouieme (pass. d’),G. 3. 
Angouleme - St- Honore, 
See Morny. 

Anjou-St-Ilonor6, D.2. 
Anjou au Marais, F. 3. 
Anjou-Dauphine, D. 4. 
Anjou (quai d 3 ), F. 4. 
Anne (Sainte), D. 3. 
Annelets (des), H. 2. 
Antin (cite d’j, D. 2. 
Anlin (d'), D. 3. 

Antin (av. d 3 ), C. 3. 
Antoine (St-), F. 4. 

— (Mazas), G. 4. 5. 
Antoine (du faub. St-), 

G. 4. II. 5. 

Antoine-Dubois, E. 4. 
Apolline (Ste-), E. 3. 4. 
Arago, G. B. 

— (bd.). D. E. 6. 

Arbalete (de P), E. 5. 
Arbre-Sec (de P), E. 3. 4. 
Arc-de-Triomphe (del’), 

B. 2. 


Bel. Belleville. 
Courc. Courcelles. 
Mtge. Montrougc. 
Gren. Crenelle. 
Vgd. Vaugii’ard. 
Mtre. Montmartre. 


Arcade (de P) D. 2. 
Archcveche (quai), E. 4 . 
Arclieveche (pont), E. 4. 
Arcole (pont d 3 ), E. 4. 
Arcolc (rue d 3 ), E. 4 . 
Arcueil (boulev.),D. 6. 
Ardennes (des), G. H. 4. 
Argenteuil (d 3 ) D. 3. 
Argenteuil (route), C. 4. 
Argoult (d 3 ) E. 3 
Arnaud (St-), C. D. 2. 
Arras (d 3 ), E. 5. 

Arrivee (de P), D. 5. 
Arsenal (place de P), F. 4. 
Arts (pont des), E. 4 . 
Arts-ct-Metiers (square 
et Conservatoire), F. 3. 
Asile (do P), G. 4. 

Assas (d 3 ), D. 4. 5. 
Assomption (do P), A. 4. 
Astorg (d 3 ), C. 2. 

Aubcr, D. 2. 
Aubry-le-Bouchcr, E. 3. 
Aumaire, F. 3. 

Aumale (d 3 ) D. 2. 

Aunay (boulev. d’), G. 3. 4 
Austerlitz (d 3 ), F. 6. 

— (bd.), F. G. 5. 

— (quai), G. 5.'6. 

— (pont d 3 ), F. 5 
Auteuil (bd. d 3 ), A. B I. 
Aval (d 3 ), F. 4. 

Babilie, E. 3. 












ii list 

Babylone (dc), C. D. A.' 
Bac (du), D. 4. 

Bagneux (do), D. 5. 
Baillet, Arbre-Scc, E. 4. 
BaillenljE. 4. 

Baillif, K. 3. 

Balzac, B. 2. 

Banque de France, D. 3, 
Banquc (de la), E. 3. 
Banquicr (du), F. C. 

Barbe (Ste-), E. 3. 

Barbet de Jouy, C. 4. 
Barbette, F. 4. 

Barometre (galeric du), 
pass, de l’Opfira, E. 2. 
Barouillere, C. 5. 

Barres (des), F. 4. 

Bar res Mcs), F. 4. 
Barthdlemy, C. 5, 
Basfroi,G. 4. 

Bassano, B. 2. 

Basse, Passy, A. 4. 
Basse-des-Ursins, E. 4. 
Bassc-du-Rempart, R. 3. 
Bassins (des), B. 2. 3. 
Bassompierrc, F. 4. 
Bastille (pi. de la) F. G. 4. 
Batailles (des), B. 3. 
Patignollcs (lid.), C. D. I. 
Battoir St-Victor, E. 3 
Bandin (impasse), E. 2 
Bandoyer (place), F. 4. 
Bayard, C. 3. 

Rayon, A 1. B. \. 2. 
Beaubourg, E. 3. 4. 

Beatice (de), F. 3. 
Boaujolais, Palais-Royal, 

r>. e. 3 . 

Beaujolais, F. 3. 

Beanjon, B. 2. 
Beaumarobais (bd.),F.3.4. 
Beaune (de), D. 4. 
Beauregard, E. n. 
Beaurepairc, E. 3. 
'Bcautreillis (de),F. 4. 
Bcauveau (place), C. 2. 
Beauveau (de), G. 5. 
Rcauveau (marcli6), G. 5. 
Beaux-Arls (des), D. 4. 
Bcccaria, G. 5. 

Beethoven, A. B. 4. 

Pel Air (avenue du), II. 5. 
Be.llecbassc (de), D. 4. 
Belleehasse (place), C. 4. 
Bellefond (de), E. 2. 
Belleville (l»d.),G. 2. 3. 
Bellicvre, G. G. 

Bellini, A. 3. 

Bellol, F. t. 

Bel Respire (de), B. 2. 


OP STREETS, SQUARES, 

Belzunec, E. l. 

Benoit (St-), D. 4. 

Ber,anger, F. 3. 

Bercy Marais, F. 4. 
Bercy(de), F. G. 5. G. 

— (quai de), G. G. 

Bercy (bd. de), G. H. 5. 6. 
Bercy (pont de), G. 6. 
Berger, E. 3. 

Bergcre, E. 2. 

I’crgerc (cite), E. 2. 
Bcrghre (galerie) , rue 
Gcoffrov-Marie, E. 2. 
Berlin (de), I). 2. 
Bernard-Palissy D 4. 
Bernard (St-), G. 4. 
Bernard (imp. St-), G. 4. 
Bernard (St-), quai, F. 5. 
Bernardins (des), E. 4. 
Betvyor (cite), D. 3. 
Berry. B. C. 2. 

Berthollct, E 5. G. 
Berthier (bd.), B. 1. 
Rertin-Poirde, E. 4. 
Berton,A. 4. 

Rertrand, C. 5. 

Itethune (quai de),F. 4. 
Beurrierc, D. 4. 

Bicbat, F. 2. 

Biches (des), A. 2. 3. 
Riches (du pont aux), St. 
Marcel,E. 5. 
Bienfaisance, C. D. 2. 
Bifevre (de), E. 4. 

Billanlt, B C.2. 
llillettes (des), F. 4.‘ 

Billy (quai de), R. 3. 4. 
Rineau (boulevard), A. l 
Biot, D. 1. 

Biragurne, F. 4. 

Biseomct, F. 3. 

Bizet, B. 2. 
lilainville, E. r>. 

Blanche, D. 1.2. 

Blanche (place), D. l. 
Blancs-Mantcaux, F. 4. 
Bla ncs-Ma ntcaux (marchd 
des), F. 4. 

Blcuc, E. 2. 

Bloniot, B. C. 5. 

Blondel, E. 3. 4. 

Bochart de Sarron,E. 1. 
Boieldieu (Place;, E. 2. 
Boileau, A. 5. 

Bois (des), II. 2. 
Boissiere, A. B. 3. 

Boissy d’Angias, 1). 3 . 
Bon (St-), E. 4. 

Bon-Puits (du) E. 5. 


ETC, 

Bonaparte, T). 4. 5. 
Bondv (de), F. 3. 
Bonne-Nouvelle (Ik 
yard), E. 2. 3. 
Bons-Enfanls (des), 
Bons-llommes, B. 3 . 4 
Bordeaux, G. 6. 
Borghdse, A. 1. 
Bornes (des), A. 3. 
Bosquet (av.),B. 3. 4. : 
Bossuet (de), E. 2. 
Bouchardon, F. 3. 
Boucher, E. 4. 
Boucherie - des -1 n val 
(de la), C. 3. 
Boudreau, D. 2. 
Boufflers (cite), F. 3. 
Bougainville, C. 4. 
Boutainvilliers, A. 4. 
— avenue de, A . 4. 
Boulangers (des), E. 5; 
Boulard, I). G. 
Boule-Rouge, E. 2. 
Boulets (des), G. II. 4. 
Boulogne (de), 1). 1. 
Boulogne (Bols-de), 
2. 3. 4. 

Bouloi (du), E. 3. 
Bouquet de Longch; 
(dn), B. 3. 

Bouquet des Champs ( 

B. 3. 

Bourhon - le- ChAteau 
4. 

Bourhon (quai),E. F. 
Bourdaloue, E. 2. 
Bourdon (houlevard), 
Bourdonnais (des), E. 
Bourdonnayc (la),TJ. 

C. 4. 

Bourct, G. l. 
Bourg-EAblid (pass.),l 
Bourgogne (de), C. 3. 
Bourguignons (des), 1 
Boursault, I), l. 2. 
Bourse (de la), E. 3. 
Bourse (place de la;,! 
Bourtibourg, F. 4. 
Boularel, F. 4. 
Bouvincs (de), H. 5. 
Brady (passage), faulx 
St-Denis, F. 2. 
Brantome, F. 3. 
Braque (de), F 3. 
Br£a. I). 3. 

Briichc aux T.onps, II 
Breda, E. ». 2. 

Breda (place), D. 2 . 
Bretagne (de). F. X 










LIST OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. 


HI 


Jreteuil (place), C. 5. 
Ireteuil (avenue), C. 4. 5. 
Jrctonvilliers, F. 4. 
Brezin, D. G. 

Irisemichc, E. 4. 

Irissac, F. 5. 

Brongniart, E. 3. 
Brouillards (des), E. 1. 
Bruaut, F. G. 

Bruxelles (de), D. 4. 

Mj B&cherie (de la), E. 4. 
(Buffault, E. 2. ’ 

Buffon, F. 5. 


Bugeaud (av.), A. 2. 3. 
Buisson St-Lonis (du), G.2. 
Buci (de), E. D. 4. 

Buci (carrefour), D. 4. 
Buttes (des), II. 5. 

Buttes Chaumonl (square 
des), G. 2. 

Buttes Chaumont (des), 
Ei F. 4. 2. 

Byron (avenue Lord), B. 2. 
Cadet, E. 2. 

Cadet (place), E. 2. 
Caffarelli, F. 3. 

Caire (du), E. 3. 

Caire (place et passage 
du), E. 2. 

Calais (de), D. 4. 
Cambaceres. C. 2. 
Cambrai (place), E. 5. 
Cambronne (pi.), B. 5 
- (de), B. 5. 

Campagne-Premiere, D. 
5. G. 

Carapo-Formio, F. 6. 

J Canal St-Martin (du),F. 4. 
" Caneltcs (des), D. 4. 
Canivel (du), 1). 4. 
Capucines (des), D. 3. 
Capucines (l>d.des),D. 2.3 
Capucins (rue et place 
des), E. 6 

Cardinal Fesch, D. E. 2. 


a!i 


U 


;- ±8 

ton, 

■, 

!. 

aril 

5)1 


35 ', 1 

C.(» 


Cardinal 
F. 4 5. 


Lenioinc, E. 5 


Cassini, E. G. 

Castellane, 13. 2. 

Castex, F. 4. 

Castiglionc (de), D. 3 
Calacombes, D. E. G. 
Catberinc (Ste-), E. 5. 
Catinat (de), E. 3. 
Caumartin, D. 2. 

Cecile (Ste-), E. 2. 

Ceinture (de), F’. 4. 
Celcslins (quai des), F’. 4. 
Cendrier (du), F. G. 
Censier, E. F. 5 
Centre (du), B. 2. 

Cerisaie (de la), F. 4 
Chabannais (de), D. 3. 
Chabrol (de), E. F. 2, 
Cliabrol, Crenelle, B. 4. 
Chaillol (de), B. 2. 3. 
Chaise (de la), 13. 4. 
Chaligny, C. 5. 

Chalgrin, A. B. 2. 

Chalons (de), G. 5. 
Champagny, C. 4. 

Champ de FAloucttc (du), 
E. G. 

- d’Asilc, 1). G. 
Cbamp-de-Mars (du), B.4. 
Champ-de-Mars, B. 4. 
Champs (des), A. 3. 
Champs-Elysees (des), sec 
Boissy d’Anglas. 
Champs-Elysees (avenue 
des), B. 2. C. 2. 3. 
Chaualcilles, C. 4. 

Change (pont au), E. 4. 
Chanoinesse, E. 4. 
Chantiers (des), F. 5. 
Chanties (des), F). 4. 
Chapelle (pi. de la), F. 4. 
Chapelle (ltd. de la), F. I. 
Chapelle (de la tile-), E. 4. 
Chapelle (cour dela Ste-), 
au Palais, E. 4. 

Chapon, F. 3. 

Chaptal, D. 4. 
Charbonniere (de la), 


Charonnc (de), G. II. 4. 

— boulevard de), II. 4. 
Charpentier, 1). 4. 
Charretiere, E. 5. 

Chartres (galcrie de), Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, E. 3. 
Chflteau-d’Eau (du), F. 
2. 3. 

Chaleaubriant (av.), B. 2. 
Chatcau-Landon, F. 4. 
Chateau-Rouge (du), FI. 4. 
Cliatelet (place du), E. 4. 
Chatigny, G. 5. 

Ciiaucliat, F). 2. 

Chaudron, F. 4. 

Chaume (du), F. 3. 4. 
Chauss6e-d’Anlin, D. 2. 
Chaussde - des - Minimes 
(de la), F. 4. 

Chaussde-du-Maine (a\c- 
nue de la), 13. 5. G. 
Chausson (passage), F. 2. 
Chauveau-Lagarde, D. 2. 
Ciiazelles, C. 4. 2. 

Chemin de for (avenue 
du), C. 5. G. 

— (du), C. G. 

Chemin de fer de Paris d 
Corbeil,A Orleans,'Tours, 
Bordeaux, et Nantes,F.5. 
Chemin de fer dc Paris & 
Lyon ct Marseille, G. 5. 
Chemin de fer de Paris 
a Sceaux, 13. G. 

Chemin de fer dc Paris & 
St-Germain, a Rouen, 
Dieppe et le Havre, I). 2. 
Chemin de fer de Paris a 
Strasbourg, F. 2. 

Chemin de fer de Paris a 
Versailles, left bank,D. 5. 
— right bank, 13. 2. 
Chemin de fer du Nord 
F. 4. 

Chemin dc fer de Char¬ 
tres et du Mans, D. 5. 
rhemin de fer dc Vin¬ 


Cardinalc, f). 4. 
Cardinet, C. 4. 

Carmes (des), E. 4. 5. 

— Mouffelard, F. G. 
Carnot, D. 5. 

Caron,F.4. 

Cai ro Mangny, C. 3. 
Carrifcres(des), A. 3. 
Carrousel (place), D. 3. 

I Carrousel (pont du), D. 

; Casimir Delavigne, E. 

1 Casimir Perier, C. 4. 

3 Cassette, D. 4. 5, 


E. F. 4. 

Charbonniers (des), G. 5. 
Charhonniers (des), fau¬ 
bourg St-Marccau, E. 3. 
Charenton (de), G. 4. 5. 
H. G. 

Charenton (route de), II.G. 
Charlemagne, F. 4. 
Charles V., F. 4. 

Charles (St-), E. 4. 
Chariot, F. 3. 

Chariot, 1 ernes, B. 2. 


cennes, G. 4. 

Chemin du Maine (av. 
du), D. G. 

Chemin-Vert (du), G. 4. 
Chemin Vicinal, H. 5. 
Chenier, E. 3. 
Chcrche-Midi, C. 5. D. 4. 5. 
Cherubini, 13. 3. 
Chcvalcret (du), F. G. 6. 
Chevert, C. 4. 

Chevreuse, D. 5. 
Childebcrt, D. 4. 



















LIST OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. 


Choisenl (dc), D. 2. 3. 
Cboiseul (passage), D. 3. 
Choisy le Roi (route), 
F. 6. 

Cliopinelle (de la), G. 2. 
Choux (pont aux), F. 4. 
Christine, A. B 2. 
Cimarosa, B. 3. 

Cimetiere (du), H. c. 
Cirque (du), C. 2. 3. 
Ciscaux (des), D. 4. 

Cit6 (de la), E. 4. 

— (quai de la), E. 4. 

— (pont de la), E. 4. 

— d’Anlin, D. 2. 

— Berrycr, D. 3. 

— Josset, G. 4. 

— Odiot, B.2. 

— d’Orleans, 1). 2. 

— Riverin, F. 2.3. 

— Trevise, E. 2. 

— Vind6, D. 3. 

Citeaux, G. 4. 3. 

Clary (square), D. 2. 
Claude (St-), Mar, F. 3. 
Claude Lorrain, A. 5. 
Clausel, E. 2. 

Clef (de la), E. 5. 

Clement, D. 4. 

Cler, C. 4. 

Clery (de), E. 3. 

Clichy (de), D. t. 2. 

Clicliy (de), av., C. D. t. 
Clichy (hd. de), D. E. 1. 
Clichy (place de), D. t. 
Clignancourt, chaussbe, 
E. t. 

Clisson, F. C. 
Cloche-Perce, F. 4. 

Cloitre N.-D. (du), E. 4. 
—St-Merri (du), E.4. 

— St-Honor6 (passage), 
E. 3. 

—-St-Benolt, E. 4. 

Clopin, E. 5. , 

Clos-Bruneau, E. 3 
Clos-Gcorgeot (du), D. 3. 
Clotaire, E. 5. 

Clolilde, E. 5. 

Clovis, E. 5. 

Cochin,E. C. 

Colbert, E. 3. 

Colbert fpassage), E. 3. 
C.oligny (de), F. 5. 
Colonnes (des), E. 3. 
Colysbc (du), C. 2. 

Coraete (de la), C. 4. 
Commerce (tour et pas¬ 
sage du), E. 4. 


Commerce du Roule, 
(cour du), C. 2 
Commerce, Bercy, II. 0. 
Commerce, Grenellc,B. 3. 
Compans, H. 2. 

Concorde (pi. de la),C. 3.4. 
Concorde (pont de la), C.3. 
Conde (de), D. 4. 
Conference (quai),B.C. 3. 
Conservatoire (du), E. 2. 
Constantine, E. 4. 
Constantine (pont), F. 4.5 
Constantine, E. F. l. 

— Montrouge, C. D. 6. 
Constantinople, C. t. D. 2. 
Condd, E. 4. 

Conti (quai), E. 4. 
Contrescarpe (bd.), F. 4.3. 
Copernic, A. B. 3. 
Coq-Hbron, E. 3. 
Coquillere, E. 3. 

Corbcau, F. 2. G. 2. 
Cordelibres (des), E. 6. 
Cordicrs (des), E. 3. 
Corneille (de), E. 5. 
Cornes (des), F. 6. 
Cossonnerie (de la), E. 3. 
Cotte, G. 4. 5. 

Courcclles (de), B. t. 2. 
C. 3. 

Courcelles (bd.),B. C. t. 2. 
Couronnes (des), G. 2. 3. 
Cours-la-Reine, C. 3. 
Courtalon, E. 3. 

Couity (de), D. 3. 

Coustou, D. I. 
Coutures-St-Gervais, F. 3. 
Crbbillon, E. 4. 

Crillon, F. 4. 5. 

Crimbe (de), G. I. II. 2. 
Croissant (du), E.'.3. 

Croix Boissiere, B. 3. 

— (chemin de la), H. 6. 

— Jarry, G. 6. 

— de - la - Bretonnerie 
(Stc-), F. 4. 

— Nivert, B. 5. 

-— des - Petits - Champs, 
E. 3. 

—Rouge (carrefour dc 
la), D. 4. 

— Rouge, Gare, G. G. 

—du-Roulc (de la), B. 2. 
Croulebarbe (de), E. 6. 
Crozalier, G. 4. 5. 
Crussol, F. G. 3. 

Cujas, E. 5. 

Cullure-Ste-Catherine,F. 4 
spe Sbvignb, 


Cuvier, F. s. 

Cygne (du), E. 3. 
Dalayrac, D. 3. 

Dames, Tcrnes, B. t. 2. 
Dames, Montmartre, D. 
Dames, Batignolles, I). I 
Dames de la visitalio 
(des), D. 4. 

Damiette (de), E. 3. 
Dangeau, A. 4. 

Dany (impasse), C. t. 
Daubenton, E. F. 3. 
Daumesnil (av.), G. H. if 
— (place), H. 6. 

Dauphin (du), D. 3. 
Dauphinc, E. 4. 

Dauphine (place), E. 4. 
David, A. 3. 

Davy, D. I. 

Debarcadbre (du), A. 2. 
Debelleyme, F. 3. 
Decamps, A. 3. 
Dbchargeurs (des), E. 3 . 1 
Delaizement, A. t. 
Delambre, D. 5. 
Dclaroche, A. 3. 4. 
Delessert, A. 4. B. 3. 
Delorme (passage), D. 3. 
Delta (du), E. I. 
Demaisne, D. I. 
Dcmours, B. 1. 

Denain, F. 2. 

Denis, St-), E. 3. 4. 

Denis (St-) St-Antoine 
H. 4. 5. 

Denis (bd. St-), E. F. 3 
Denis (du fg. St-), F. t. 2 
Dbpart (du), D. 5. 
Dbparlemcnt (du), F. t. 
Deparcieux, D. G. 

Desaix, B. 4. 

Desaix (quai), E. 4. 
Desbordes Valmore, A. 3 
Descartes, E. 5. 

Desir (passage du), F. 2. 
Deux Boules, E. 4. 
Deux-Eeus (des), E. 3. 
Deux-Ermites, E. 4. 
Deux-Moulins (des), F.6. 
Deux-Ponls (des),F. 4. 
Deux-Portes - St-Sauveu 
(des), E. 3. 

Deux-Portes-St-Jean (des' 
E. 4. 

Didier (St-), A. 3. 
Domat, E. 4. 

Dominique (St-), B. C, 3 
4. D. 4. 

— passage. B. 4. 








V 


2 , 

' 0 . 

D, 

lii] 


I. 


i 

U 


l 




!. 

| 


LIST OF STREETS, SQUARES. 


Do re, F. 6. 

I)ouai (de), D. \. 

Douane (de la), F. 3. 
Double (pont au), E. 4. 
Doudeauville, E. F. 1 . 
Dragon (du), D. 4. 

Dragon (cour du), D. 4. 
Drouot, E. 2. 

Dueouedic, D. 0. 

Dulong, C. i. 
Dugay-Trouin, D. 5. 

Du Guesclin, B. 4. 
Dumeril, F. 0. 

Dumont d’Urville, B. 2. 
Dunkerque, E. F. l. 2. 
Dunois, F. G. 6. 

DuperrO, D. i. 

Duphot, D. 3. 

Dupin, 1). 4. 5. 

Dupleix, B. 4. 

Dupleix (place), B. 4. 
Dupont, B. 3 
Dupuis, F. 3. 

Dupuytren, E. 4. 
Duquesne (av.), C. 4. 
Duras (de), c. 2. 

Duroc, C. 5. 

Duvivier, C. 4.' - 
Eble, C. 5. 

EchandO (de F), D. 4 . 
Echelle (de V), D. 3.. 
Echiquier de P), E. 2. 
Ecluses St-Marlin, F. 2. 
Ecole (quai de F), E. 4. 
Ecole (place de F), D. 3. 
Ecole-de-Medecine, E. 4- 
Ecole Polytechnique (de 
F), E. 5. 

Ecoles (des), E. 4. 5. 
Ecosse (d>), E. 5. 

Ecouffes (des), F. 4. 
Ecuries d’Artois (des), 
B. C. 2. 

Eglise (bd. de F), F. 6. 
Eglise (de F),Bat.,C.D. l. 
Eglise (pi. del’), Bat.,C. 1. 
Egout (del’), faubourg St- 
Germain, D. 4. 

Elisabeth (Ste-), F. 3. 

Eloy (St-), E. 4. 

Elysee (palais de),C. 3. 
Elys£es (de F), C. 3. 
Enipereur (avenue de F), 
A. B. 3. 

Enfants-Rouges, F. 3. 
Enfer (d’), D. 0. E. 5. 

Enfer (boulev. d’), D. 5. 6 
Enfer (place d’), D. 0. 
Enghien (d’), E. 2. 


Entrcpdt (de F), F. 2. 3. 
Entrepreneurs, B. 4. 5. 
Ep6e-de-Bois (de F), E. 5. 
Eperon (de F), E. 4. 
Erard, G. 5. 6. 

Erfurth (d>), D. 4. 
Ernestine, F. t. 

Essai (de F), F. G. 

Eslrees (d’), C. 4. 

Eloile (de F), B. 2. 

Etoile (place de F), B. 2. 
Eugene (boul.), A. t. 
Europe (place <F), D. t. 
Eustache (place SI-), E. 3. 
Evfique (F), D. 3. 

Eylau (avenue de), A. 3. 
B. 2. 

Eylau (place d’), A. 3. 
Fabert, C. 3. 4. 
Faisanderie (de la), A. 
2. 3. 

Fargeau (St-), H. 2. 
Fauconnicr (du), F. 4. 
Favart, E. 2. 

Felibien, D. 4. 

F61icit6 (de la), C. t. 
Femme-sans-Tete, F. 4. 
Fenelon, E. 2. 
Fer-h-Moulin, E. F. 6. 
Ferdinand (St-), A. B. 2. 
Ferdinand-Berthoud,F. 3. 
Ferme-des-Malhurins (de 
la), D. 2. 

Ferou, D. 4. 5. 
Ferronnerie (de la), E. 3. 
Ferrus, E. G. 

Fessard, G. If. 2. 

Feuillade (la), E. 3. I 
Feuillantines (des), E. 5. 
Feydeau, E. 3. 

Feydeau (galerie), passage 
Panoramas, E. 3. 

Fiacre (St-), E. 2. 3. 
Figuier (du), F. 4. 
Filles-Dieu (des), E. 3. 
Filles-du-Calvaire, F. 3. 

— (boulevard des), F. 3. 
Filles-St-Thomas (des), 
E. 3. 

Flandre (de), G. 1. 
Fiddlier, E. 2. 

Fleurus (de), D. 5 
F’lorentin (St-), D 3. 

Foin (du), au Marais, F. 4. 
Folie-Mdricourt, F. G. 3. 

-Regnault, G. 3. H. 4. 

Fondary, B. 5. 
Fontaine-au-Roi, F. G. 3. 
Fontaine St. Georges, D.i. 


ETC. 

Fontaine-Moliere, D. 3. 
Fontainebleau (route), 
F. 6. 

Fontaines (des), F. 3. 
Fontaines (cour des), E. 3. 
Fontarabie, H. 4. 
Fontenoy (place de), C. 4. 
Forest, D. i. 

Forez (du), F. 3. 

Forges (des), au Caire, E. 3 
Fortin, C. 2. 
Fosses-St-Bernard, F. 5. 
—St -)Germain - FAuxer- 
rois (des), E. 3. 

—St-Jacques (des), E. 5. 

*—St-Marcel, E. G. 

■—du-Temple (des), G. 3. 
Fouarre (du), E. 4. 
Four-St-Germain, D. 4. 
Four-St-Jacques ; E. 5. 
Fourcy-St-Antoine (de), 
F. 4. 

Fourneaux (des), C. 5. 
Fourneaux (ch. des),C. 6. 
Foy (Ste-), E. 3. 

Fraugaise, E. 3. 

Frangois ler, B. 3. 4.; 

— (place), C. 3. 
Francs-Bourgeois (des), 

au Marais, F. 4. 
Francs-Bourgcois (des), 
St-Marcel, F. G. 

Franklin, A. 3. 4. 

Fresnel, E. 5. 

Friedland (avenue de), 
B. C. 2. 

Frochot, E. 1. 

Frondeurs (des), D. 3. 
Fulton, G. 6. 

Furstemberg, D. 4. 

Gabriel (avenue), C. o. 
Gaillard, D. l. 

Gaillon, D. 3. 

Gaillon (carrefour). D 3. 
Gaitd, D. 5. G. 

— chemin de la, C. 6. 
Galande, E. 4. 

Galilde, B. 2. 3. 

Galvani, B. t. 

Gambey, G. 3. 

Garanciere, D. 4. 5. 

Gardes (des), E. t. 

Gare (bd de la), F G. G. 

— (quai de la), G. 6. 

Gare (de la), F.5. G. 

Gastd, B. 3. 

Gauthrin (passage), C 3. 
Gay-Lussac, E. 5. 

Genevidve (Ste-), H. 2. 









VI 


LIST 

Genty (passage), G 5. 
Gentilly, R. F. C. 
Geoffroy-FAngevin, F. 3. 
Geoffroy-FAsnier, F. 4. 
Gcoffroy-Maric, E. 2. 
Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, F. 5. 
Georges (St-), K. 2 
Georges (pi. SI-), D. E. 2. 
Gerbert, B. 4. 5. 

Germain (MarchdSt-) I).4 
Germain (lxl. St-), D. 3. 4. 
E. 4. 5. F. 5. 

Germain-FAuxerrois(St-), 
E. 4. 

Germain - l’Auxerrois 
(place St-), E. 4. 

Germain Pilon, D. E. t. 
Gerson, E. 5. 

Gervais (St-), F. 3. 4. 
G6vres (quai tie), E. 4. 
Gilles (St-), F. 4. 

Gindre (du, I). 4. 
Git-lc-Ccenr, E. 4. 

Glaciere (de la), E. G 
Glaligny (de), E. 4 
Gobelins (des), E. G. 
Godefroy, F. 0. 
Godot-de-Mauroy, D. 2. 
Gomboust. D. 3. 

Gonlte d’Or, E. F. 1. 
Gozlin, D. 4. 

Gracieuse, E. 5. 
Grammont (de), 1). 2. 3. 
Grand-Cerf (pass.du),E. 3. 
Grand-r.hanticr, F. 3. 
Grand-Hurleur (du), E. 3. 
Grand-Prieurc (du), F. 3. 
Grand-St-Micliel, F. 2. 
Grande Arm6e (avenue 
de la), A. B. 2. 

Grande - Cbaumiere (de 
]a), 1). 5. 

Grande, Cbapelle, F. 1. 
Grande, Passy, A. 4. 
Grande, Autcuil, A. 4. 
Grands-Augustins (des), 
E. 4. 

Grands - Augustins (quai 
des), D. 4. 

Grands-Degrcs (des), E. 4. 
Grande-Truanderie, E. 3. 
Grange aux Belles, F. G. 2. 
Grange-Bateliere, E. 2. 
Gravillicrs (des), F. 3. 
Greffulile, D. 2. 

Gr^goire de Tours, E. 4. 
Grenellc-St-Germain.B. G. 
D. 4. 

Grcnclle-St-Ilonore, E. 3. 
Crenelle (quai de), B. 4. 


OF STREETS, SQUARES, 

Grenelle(boul. de),B. 4.5. 

C. 5. 

GreneUe, a Crenelle, 
B. 4. 5. 

— (pon.t de), A. B. 4. 
Greneta, E. F. 3. 
Grenier-St-Lazare, E. F. 3. 
Grenicr-sur-FEau, F. 4. 
Grdtry, E. 2. 

Greuze, A. 3. 

Greve (quai de la), E. F. 4. 
Gribeauval, D. 4. 

Gril ;du), E. 5. 

Gros, A. 4. 

Guen.endc (impasse), F. 4. 
GuCnegaud, E. 4. 
Guerin-Boisscau, F. 3. 
Guillaume, D. 4. 
Guillaume (St-), D. 4. 
Guillaume (cour St-),D. 3. 
Guillot, B C. 1. 

Guisarde, I). 4. 
Guy-Labrosse, F. 5. 

Haies (dcs),H. 4. 

Ualevy, D 2. 

Halle au Ble, E. 3. 

Halle aux Cuirs, F. 5. G. 
HallO, 0. G. 

Halles Centrales, E. 3. 
Hambourg (de), C. 2 
Hanovre (de), I). 2. 

Harlay (de), au Marais. 
F 3. 

Harlay du Palais, E. 4. 
Harpe (de la), E. 4. 

Hasard (du), 1). 3. 
Ilaussmann (boul.),C.D.2. 
Haulefeuille, E. 4. 
Hauleville. E. 2. 

Hautpoul (d’), H. 2. 

Havre (passage du),D. 2. 
Havre (rue et place du), 

D. 2. 

Haxo, H. 2. 

Helder (du), D. 2. 
Henri-Quatre (place de), 
Pont-neuf, E. 4. 
Henri-Quatre (quai),F.4.5. 
Herold, A. 4. 

Hirondelle (de F) E. 4. 
Hippolyte (St-), E. G. 
Hoche, B. 4. 

Holzbaclier (cil6 ct pas¬ 
sage), G. 3. 

Ilommc-Arni6 (de l’),F. 4. 
Honord-Ckevalier, I). 5. 
Honore (St-), I). E. 3. 
Honore (cloilre St-), 1). 3 
Honore (marche St-), ou 
des Jacobins, D. 2. 3( 


ETCr 

Honore(du faubourg Si 

B. C. 2. U. 3. 

Hopilal (bd. de F), F. 5 
Hdpital (place de F), F 
Horloge (galerie de 

pres l’Opera, E. 2. 
Horloge (quai de F), E 
Ilospi la lieres- Saint - G 
vais, F. 4. 

Holel-Colbert (de F), E. 
Hotel-des-Fermes (pass! 
de F), E. 3. 

H6tel-de-Ville (de F), F 
Hotel de viile (de 
Batignolles, D. 1. 
Hotel-de-Ville (place 
F), E. 4 

Hotel-Dieu, E. 4. 
Houdon, E. 1. 

Huchclle (de la), E. 4. 
Humboldt, E. G. 
Hyacirilhe (St-) ; St-lIoi 
re, U. 3. 

lena (d’), C. 3. 4. 

Iena (avenue d’), B. 2. 
Iena (ponl d ; ), B. 3. 4. 
lie Louviers (de F), F. ! 
Imperatricc (av. de 
A. B. 2. 

Industrie (pass, de F),F 
Induslrie(bazarde F),E 
Ingres (av.), A. 4. 
Innocents (des), E. 3. 
Innocents (sq. des), E. ; 
Invalides (bd. des), C. 4 
Invalides (pout des), C. 
Invalides (esplanade dc 

C. 3 4. 

Irlandais (des), E. 5. 
Isly (passage de F), G. I 
Isly (de F), I). 2. 

Italic (boulevard d’), E 
— (place d’), F. G. 
italiens (bd. des), D. E. 
Jacob,D. 4. 

Jacquart, G. 3. 

Jacques de Brosse, F. 4 
Jacques (SI-), E. 4 5. 
Jacques (bd. St-) D. E. ( 
Jacques (du faubourgSl 
E. 6. 

Jacques dc la Boucbci 
(square and lour), E. • 
Jacques-FHdpilal (St-), 1 
Jardin et ga lories du Pab 
r>o\al, E. 3. 

Jardin du Luxcmboui 
U. E. 5. 

Jardin des Plantes, F. 5 
Jardinet (du), E. 4. 




LIST 

Jardins (des), F. 4. 
Jarente, F. 4. 

5 , Javel (quai de), A. 4. 5. 

F Jean-Baptiste (SI-). C. 2. 
Jeau-Barl, D. 5. 
Jean-Beausire, F. 4. 

E Jean Bologna, A. 4. 
Jean-Bouton, G. 5. 
Jean-de-Beauvais (St-), 
E. 4. 5. 

Jean-Goujon, C. 3. 

Jean-J. Rousseau, E. 3. 
Jean-Lantier, E. 4. 

Jean Robert, F. t. 

Jeanne d’Arc (pi.), F. 6. 
Jeannisson, I). 3. 
Jemmapcs (quai de), F. 
1. 2 3. 

Jcssaint (de), F. 

Jeuneurs (des), E. 3. 
Joinvillc (passage), G. 2. 

I Jolivet, D. 5 
Joquelct, E. 3. 

Joseph (St-), E. 3. 
Josephine (avenue),B.2.3. 
Jossel (cite et pass.), G. 4 
Joubert, I). 2. 
j Jouffroy, F. 5. 

Jouffroy (passage), E. 2. 
p Jour (du), E. 3. 
g j Jouvenet, A. 5. 

Jouy (de), F. 4. 
Juges-Consuls (des), E. 4. 
Juifs (des), F. 4. 

Juillet (du 29) I). 3. 

Jules Cesar, F. 4. 
Julien-le-Pauvre (St-),E. 4 
Julienne, E. 6 
Jussieune (de la), E. 3. 

I Jussieu, F. 5. 

Justice (place du Palais 
de). E. 4. 

Justice (palais de), E. 4. 
Keller, G. 4 
Kcppler B. 3. 

KIdber, B 4. 

Labeaume, C. 2. 

Laborde, C. 0. 2. 
Labruyere, D. 2. 

Lacepfcdc, E. F. 5. 

La cnee, F. 5. 

Lafayette, E. 2. F. 1. 2. 
Lafayette (place), E. 2. 
Laferriere, D. E. 2. 

Lafiille, E. 2. 

La Fontaine, A. 4. 

Lagny (de), H. 4. 5. 

La mar re, B. t. 2. 
Lamartine, E. 2. 

Lancelle (de la), II. 0. 


OF STREETS, SQUARES, 

Lancry (de), F. 2. 

Landry (St-), E. 4. 
Laplace, E. 5. 

Larrey, F. /,. 

Las-Cases, D. 4. 
Latour-Maubourg (boule¬ 
vard), C. 3. 4. 

Laugier, B. L 
Laurent (St-), F. 2. 
Lanrislon A. 3 . B. 2. 3 . 
Laval, E. c 

Lavandieres (des), E. 4 . 
Lavoisier, C. 2. 

Lazo re (SI-), L>. E. 2. 
Leeierc, L). o 
Lecoiu be, B. C. 5. 
Legendre, C. L). \. 
Legraverend, G. 5 . 
Lekain,A. 4 
Lemarrois, A. 5. 
Lemercier, D. \. 

I.enioine (passage), E. 3 . 
Lenoir, faubourg st-An- 
toine, G. 4. 

Ldonie, U. \ 

Lcpellclier, E. 2. 
Lepelleticr (quai), E. 4. 
Lepic, I). t. 

LcrouX, A. 2. 
Lesdigtiieres, F. 4. 
Lesneur, A. B. 2 . 

Lever I, H. 2. 

Levissc, E. 1. 

Levis, C. \. 

Libert, It. (j. 

Lilas (des), H. 2 
Lille (dc), C. D. 3. 4. 

LI mace (de la), L. 4 . 
Lingerie (dc la), E. 3. 

Li nne, F. 5. 

Linois, B. 4. 
I.ions-St-Paul, F. 4. 
Lisbonne (de), C. 2. 
Lobau, E. F. 4. 

Lobincau,D. 4. 

Lodi (du pont de), D. 4. 
Loire, quai de la, G. L 
Lombards (des), E. 4. 
Londres (de), l). 2. 
Longchamp (de), A. 3. 
Longchamp (boul. de), A. 3 
Lord Byron, B. 2. 

Louis-le-Grand, D. 2. 3. 
Louis (St-), Crenelle, 
B. 4. 5. 

Louis (lie St-), E. F. 4. 
Louis (St-), E. F. 4. 
Louis-Philippe, G. 4. 
Louis-Philippe (pont),F.4. 
Lourcinc (dc), E. 0. 


ETC. Vi 

Louvois, E. 3. 

Louvois (place), E. 3 
Louvre (du), E. 3. 4. 
Louvre (palais du), E 3.4. 
Louvre (quai du), E. \ 
Louvre place du), u. :$ 
Louvre (pont du), ou des 
Arts, E. 4. 

Lowendal (avenue), li F. 
C. 4. 

Lubeek, B. 3. 

Lully, E. 3. 

Lune (de la), E. 3. 
Luxembourg (de), D. 3. 

— avenue du, U. E. 5. 
Lyon (de), F. 4. 5. 
Lyonnais (des), E. 6. 
Mabillon, l). 4. 

Macon, G. 6. 

Masons (des), E. 4. 
Madame, D. 4. 5. 
Madeleine (de la). Sec 

Boissy d’Anglas nd 
Pasquier. 

Madeleine (bd.-dela), 1). 3. 
Madeleine (place), U. 2 3. 
Mademoiselle, B. 5. 

Madi id (de), O. i>. 2. 
Magdebourg (de), B 3 
!\ agenta (bd.), E. i F.2.3, 
Mail (du), E. 3. 

Maillot, Porte, A. 2. 
Maine (chaussee du), i>. 
5. 6. 

— place du, D. 5. 

— (av. du), G. D. S'. 

Mairie (de la), A. 1. 
Maitre-Albert, E. 4. 
Malakoff, avenue,A. 2 3. 
Malaquais (quai), 1>. 4 
Malar, C. 3. 

Malesherbes, C. t. 2. 
Malesherbes (bd.),C t.r 

I). 2. 

Malesherbes (place), ('.. t 
Malher, F. 4. 

Malle (de), G. 3. 

Mandar, E. 3. 

Maude (avenue SI-), II. i> 
Mansart, n. t. 

Marais (des), faubourg St 
Martin, F. 2. 3. 

Marais (entrepot des). au 
canal, F. 3. 

Marbeuf, B. G. 3 
Marbeul (allee), B C 3. 
Marc (St-), E. 2. 

Marcel (St-), E. G. 

— (boulevard), E. F.G. 
Marche* (du), A. 1. 










viii list 

March6d’Agiiesseau,C. 2. 

now rue Montalivet. 

— Beauveau, G. 5 , 

—aux-Chevaux, F. C. 

— -aux-Fleurs, E. 4. 

—aax-Fourrages, D. 5. 
—aux-Veaux, E. 4. 5. 

— des Cannes, E. 4. 5. 

-Neuf (quai), E. 4. 

-St-Germain, I). 4. 

—St-Gervais, F. 4. 

-St-Honord, I). 3 . 

— de la Vallee, E. 4. 

—St-Martin, F. 3. 
Marengo, E. 3. 

Marguerite (Ste-), G. 4. 
Marie (pont), F. 4 . 

Marie (Ste-), a Chaillot, 

B. 3. 

Marie (Ste-), Ternes, 
A. B.2. 

Marie (passage Ste-)/fau¬ 
bourg St.-Germain, D. 4. 
Marie-Stuart, E. 3. 
Marignan (dc), C. 3. 
Marigny (avenue), C. 2. 3 
Marivaux, E. 2. 
Marmousets (des),E. 4. 
Maroc \du), F. G. \. 
Marquefoy, F,2. 

Marseille (de), F. 2. 
Marseille, Villelte, G. 1. 
Marsollier, D. 3 . 

Martel, E. F. 3. 

Martignac, C. 4. 

Marthe (Ste-), D. 4. 

Martin (St-), E. 3. 4. F. 3. 
Martin (St-), canal, F. 

1. 2 . 

Martin (bd. St-), F. 3. 
Martin (du faubourg St-), 
F, 1.2. 

Martyrs (des), E. 1. 2. 
Martyrs (cliausee des), E.l 
Masseran, C. 5. 

Massillon, E. 4. 

Mathurins (des), E. 4. 5. 
Malignon (av.), 15. 2. C. 3. 
Matignon, C. 2. 3. 

Maubert (place), E. 4. 
Maubcuge (de), E. F. 1 . 
Maubudc, E. F. 3. 
Mauconseil, E. 3. 

Maur (St-), Popincourt, F. 

2. G. 2. 3. 4. 

Maur (St-), faubourg St- 
Germain, D. 5. 

Maure (du), E. 3. 

Mauvais Garmons (des), 


OF STREETS, SQUARES, 

Mayet, C. 5. 

Mazagran, E. 2. 

— (impasse), E. 2. 
Mazarine, E. 4. 

Mazas (bd.), F. G. H. 5. 
Mazas (place), F. 5. 

Msaux (de), G. 1.2. 
Mecliain, E. 6. 

Medicis, E. 5. 

Megisserie (quai), E. 4. 
Mdhul, D. 3. 

Mdriars, E. 3. 
Mdnilmonlant (chaussde 
de), G. H. 3. 

— (boulev. de), G. II. 3. 
Mercier, E. 3. 

Mercoeur, G. 4. 

Mcslay, F. 3. 

Messageries (des), E. 2. 
Messageries - Imperiales 

(cour des), E. 3. 

Messine (de), C. 2. 

Metz (de), F. 2. 

Meuniers (ch. des), II. C. 
Meverbeer. D. 2. 

Mdzidres, D. 4. 
Michel-le-Comte, F. 3. 
Michel (place St-), E. 4. 
Michel (pont St-), E. 4 
Michel (bd. St-), E. 4. 5. 
Michel (quai SI-), E. 4. 
Michel-Ange, A. 5 . 
Micliodiere (de la), D. 2.3. 
Mignon, E. 4. 

Milan (de), D. 2. 

Minimcs (des), F. 4. 
Miollis, B. C. 5. 

Miracles (Cour des), E. 3. 
Miromesnil, C. 2. 

Mogador, D. 2. 

Moines (des), C. D. 1. 
Moineaux (des), D. 3. 

Mol ay, F. 3. 

Molidre, A. 4. 

Molidre (passage), E. 4. 
Mouceau (de), B. C. 2. 
Monceau (pare de), C. 2. 
Monccy, D. 1. 2. 
Mondetour, E. 3. 

Mondovi (de), D. 3. 

Monge, E. 5 6. 

Monjol, G. 2. 

Monnaie (de la), E. 4. 
Monsieur (de), C. 4. 
Monsieur-le-Prince,E. 4.5. 
Monsign y, D. 3. 
Montagne-Ste - Genevidvo 
(de la), E. 5. 

Montaigne (de), C. 2. 3. 
Montaigne, (Av.), B. C 3. 


ETC. 

Montalivet, C. 2. 
Montebello (quai), E 
Montesquieu, E. 3. 
Montesquieu (pass.), 
Montfaucon, D. 4. 
Montgallet, H. 5. 
Montgolfier, F. 3. 
Montholon (square), 
Monthyon, E. 2. 
Montmartre (cimet 

D. 1. 

Montmartre (boulev 

E. 2. 

Montmartre, E. 2. 3. 
Montmartre (du 
bourg), E. 2. 
Montmorency, E. F. 
Montorgueil, E. 3. 
Mont-Parnasse (cim 
re), D. 5. 6. 
Mont-Parnasse (du), 
Mont - Parnasse (b 
yard), C. D. 5. 
Montpensier (galerie; 
lais-Royal. D. E. 3. 
Montpensier, D. E. 3 
Montreuil (de), G. II 
Montrouge (bd. de), 
Mont Rozier, A. l. 2 
Montsouris(squr. de) 
Mont-Thabor (du), C 
Morand, G. 3. 
Moreau, G. 5. 
Morillons (des), B. C 
Morland (boulev.), F. 
Mornay, F. 4. 

Morny (de), C. 2. 
Moscou (de), l). 1. 
Mothe-Piquet (avenu 
la), B. C. 4. 
Mouffetard, E. 5. 6. 
Moulin. H. 5. 
Moulin-Vert (du), D 
Moulins (des), D. 3. 
Moulins, Chaumont < 
Moussy (de), F. 4. 
Muettc (de la), G. H h 
Mulels (des), D. 3. 
Mulhouse (de), E. 3. 
Murier (du), E. 5. 
Nancy (de), F. 2. 
Naples (de), C. 2. 
Napoldon (av.) D. 3. 
Napoldon (cild), E. 1. 
Napoleon III.(place), I 
Napoleon (quai), E. 4. 
— (pont), G. 6. 
Nationale, F. 6. 
Navarin (de), E. 2. 
Meeker, March6 Ste- 
therine, F. 4. 





IX 


LIS1 OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. 


■ U 


s ')iB 


Nccker (hdpital), C. 3. 
Ndgrier, C. 4. 

Nemours (cour ct galerie 
de), Palais-Royal, E. 3. 
Nemours (de), G. 3. 

Neuf (pont), E. 4. 
lr «)|S Neuilly (avenue de), A. 1.2 
Neuilly (boulev.), B. C. 1. 
Neuve-Bourg-PAbbe, E. 3. 
I—dcs-Bons-Enfanls,E. 3. 
—des-Capucincs, D. 3. 
-Coqucnard, E. 2, 


Dlevir 


f! 


-f.l 

). 

[einK 

ilU:, 


. 3 . 

E.i 
>■ Hi i 

ie]j 

U 


,8 

■ Cl 

4 


-des-Matburins, D. 2. 


•—des-Petits-Champs, D. 
3. 4. 

—des-Petits-Pdres, E. 3. 
— Fontaine-St-George, 
D. i. 

—Guillemin, D. 4. 

‘1 —-Lappe, G. 4. 

—Montmorency, E. 2. 
—Notre-Dame, E. 4. 

—Popincourt, G. 3. 

-St-Augustin, D. 3. 4. 

—Ste-Catherine, F. 4. 
—St-Etienne, E. F. 5. 
-St-Medard, E. 5. 


.141 --St-Mcrri, E 3 




—St-Sauveur, 

—dc-la-vierge, B. 4. 
Nevers (de), E. 4. 

Newton, B. 2. 

Nicolai, H. 6. 

Nicolas (St-), Chaussde- 
d’Antin, D. 2. 

Nicolas (St-), faubourg St- 
Antoine, G. 4. 

Nicolas - du - Ghardonnet 
(St-), E. 5. 

Nicolas-Flamel, E. 4. 
Nicolet, C. 3. 

Nicolo, A. 3. 4. 

Nicot, C. 3. 

Nollet, C. D. 1. 

Nonnains d’Hyeres (dcs), 
F. 4. 

Nord (place du), E. 1. 
Normandie (de), F. 3. 
Notre - Dame - de-Bonne- 
Nouvelle, E. 2. 3. 

— de - Grace, Chaussde- 
d’Anlin, D. 2. 

—de-Loretlc, D. 1. 2. 
E. 2. 

—Nazareth, F. 3. 

.—Rccouvrance, E. 2. 

— des Champs, D. 5. 

— des victoires, E. 3. 


-(pont), E. 4. 


Noyers (des), E. 4. 
Oberkampf, F. G< 3. 
Oblin, E. 3. 

Observatoire, D. 6. 
Observatoire (carrefour 
de P), D. E. 5. 

— (avenue de P), D. 6. 
Oddon (de P), E. 4. 

Odeon (place de P), E. 4. 
Oddon (carrefour), E. 4. 
Odiot (citd), B. 2. 

Ombaslc (d 5 ), B. 6. 

Opdra (passage de P), E.2. 
Opportune (place Ste-), 

E. 3. 

Oran (d>), E. F. 1. 
Orangerie (de P),E. 5. 
Oratoire-du-Roule (de P), 

B. C. 2., now rue Bit 
lault. 

Oratoire (de P), St-Hono- 
rd, E. 3. 

Orfevres (des), E. 4. 
Orfevres (quai des), E. 4. 
Orillon (de P), G. 2. 3. 
Orleans (d’>, G. 1. 

— (d ? ), Bercy, G. G. 

— (route d J ), D. 6. 
Orleans (citd d’), D. 2. 
Orldans-St-Honord, E. 3. 
Orldans (galerie d J ), Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, E. 3. 

Orldans (quai d’), E. F. 4. 
Orme (de P), F. 4. 
Ormeaux (des), H. 4. 
Ormes (quai des), F. 4. 
Orsay (quai d’) B. 3. 4. 

C. D. 3. 

Orties (des), D. 3. 

Oseille (de P), au Marais, 

F. 3. 

Oudinot, C- 4. 

Ouen (St-), avenue, D. 1. 
Oucst (de P), D. 5. 

— (Sablonville), A. 1. 

— Maine, C. D. 6. 

Ourcq, canal de P), G. 1. 
Ours (aux), E. 3. 

Pagevin, E. 3. 

Paillet, E. 5. 

Paix (de la), D. 3. 

Paix (de la) Bat., D. 1. 
Pajol, F. 1. 

Pajou), A. 4. 

Palais (lie du), E. 4. 
Palais-Bourbon(place du), 
C. 3. 

Palais de PInstitut (place 
du), D. 3. 


Palais (bd. ilu), E. 4. 
Palais de PIndustric,C. 3. 
Palais-Royal, E. 3. 
Palatine, D. 4. 

Panoramas (passage dcs), 
E. 2. 

Panthdon, E. 3 
Panthdon (place du), E. 3 
Pantin (chemin de la 
Barridre de), H. 2. G. 2. 
Papillon, E. 2. 

Papin, E. 3. 

Paradis (de), faubourg St* 
Denis, E. F. 2. 

Paradis (de), Mar., F.3. 4. 
Parc (du), A. t. 
Parchcminerie (de la),E. 4 
Parc-Royal (du), F- 4. 
Paris (Courcelles), C. t. 

— (St-Gerv.), G. H* 2. 

— (quai), A. B. 4. 

Parme (de), D. t. 
Parmentier (avenue), G.3 
Parvis-Nolrc-Dame (place 

du), E. 4. 

Pascal, E. 6. 

Pas-de-la-Mule (du), F. 4. 
Passages, see their names. 
Pasquier, D. 2. 
Pastourelle, F. 3. 

Paul Lclong, E. 3. 

Paul (St-), F. 4. 

— (quai et port St-). F. 4. 

Pauquet de Villejust, R 3. 
Pavde, au Marais, F. 4. 
Payenne, F. 4. 

Peclet, B. 5. 
Pdlerins-St-Jacques, E 3 
Pdliean (du), E. 3. 
Pelletier (quai), E. 4. 
Pentagonale (pi.), C. t. 
Penlliievre (de), C. *. 
pdpinidre (de la), C. Lb 2 
Percde-St-Antoinc, F. 4. 
Perceval, D. 6. 

Per die (du), F. 3. 

Percier (avenue), C. 2. 
Pereire (boulev.), A. R. t 
Pere-la-Chaisc (cimetidi e) 
H. 3. 4. 

Peres (des Sts-), D. 4. 
Peres (pont des Sts-), 1). '• 
Pergolese, A. 2. 

Pdricr, A. B. t. 

Perignon (de), C. 5. 

Perle (de la), F. 3. 4. 
Pcrnclle, E. 4. 

Pdrouse (de la), b- 2. 3. 
ferpignan (de), E. 4, 









I AST OF STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. 


Perron (passage d Ta- 
lais Royal, E. 3. 

Perronet, A. 1. 

Perronet, D. 4. 

Pelcrsbourg (deSl-) y W. 1.2 
Petit, H. 1. 

— Carrcau (du), E. 

— Lion (du), St-Sa 1 ur, 
E. 3. 

— Moine (du), E. 0. 

— Muse (du), F. 4 

— Pont (du), E. 4. 

— Tliouars (du), F. 3. 
Pctite-Corderie, F. 3. 

— rue du Banquier, F. 6. 

— Rue St-Pierre. F. 4 

— Ecuries (des), E. F. 2. 

— Ecuries (passage des), 
E.2. 

— Hotels (des), E. F. 2. 

— Ptres (passage des), 
E.3. 

•—Ptres (place des), E. 3. 
Petrelle, E. 1, 

Phtlippeaux, F. 3. 
Philippe de Girard, F. 1. 
Philippe (passage St-), du 
Roule, C. 2 

Philippe (St-), Bonne- 
Nouvelle, E. 3. 

Picard, G. 6. 

Picpus (de), H. 5. 

Picpus (boulevard de) ,H.5. 
Pierre (pass. St-), F G 3. 

— (St-), Popincourt, F.3.4 

— (St-), Mire , E. 3. 

— Assis, E. 6. 

— au-Lard, E. 4. 

— Lescot, E. 3. 4. 

— Levee, G. 3. 

— Lombard, E. 6. 

— Sarrazin, E. 4. 

Pigalle, D. t. 2. 

Pigalle (place),E. t. 

Pinel, F. 6. 

Pirouette, E. 3. 

Places (see their names' 
Placide (Sic-), l). 4. 5 
Planehctte (impassse de 
la), F 3. 

Plantes (ch. des), D. 6. 
Plat-d’Etain (du), Ste-Op- 
poctune, E. 3. 
rialre (du),Ste-Avoye, F. 4 
Poinle-St-Euslache (carre- 
four de la), E. 3. 

Poirier (du), E. 3. 

P.oisswn, \. 2. 

Poisson nitre, E. 2.3. 
Poissonniers (des), E. 1. 


Poissonniere (boulevard), 
E. 2. 

Poisson nitre (du fau¬ 
bourg), E. 1. 2. 

Poissy (de), E. 4. 5. 
1‘oilevins (des), E. 4. 
Poitiers (de), D. 4. 

Poitou, F. 3. 

Police (prefecture de),E.4. 
Poliveau, F. 5. 
Polytechniquc (de l’Ecole) 
E.5. 

Pompc (de la), Passy, 
A. 2. 3. 

Pompe (pass.), B. 3. 
Ponceau (du), E. F. 3 
Ponl-Louis-Philippe, F. 4. 

- (Petit), E. 4 

—aux-Biches, E. F. 4. 5 

-aux-Choux (du), F. 3. 

-de-Lodi (du), E. 4. 

-Neuf (passage du),E. 4. 

— (place du), E. 4. 

Tonis (see their names). 
Ponthieu (de), C. 2. 
Pontoise (de), E. 4 
Popincourt (de), G. 3 4. 
Port-Mahon (de), D. 3. 
Port-Royal (de), E. 3. 

Port Royal (boul.), E. 0. 
Porte-Foin, F. 3. 

Posies (des), E. 5. 

Posle aux clievaux, T). 2. 
rue Tour-des-1 lames. 
Poste aux lettres, grande, 
E. 3. rue J.-J. Rousseau. 
Pot-de-Fer, (du), E. 5. 
Poleric (do la) des Arcis, 
E. 4. 

Polerie (de la), Halle aux 
draps, E. 3. 

Poules (dcs),E. 5. 
Poullelier, F. 4. 

Poussin, A 4. 

Pi t aux Clercs (du),D. 4. 
Prtchcurs (des), E. 3 
Prtfecture du Departe 
ment, t l’llotcl-de-Ville, 

E. 4. 

Prefecture de Police, E. 4. 
Pres (des), H. 2. 

Prts St. Gcrvais (des), 
G. 11. 1 

Prcsbourg, B .2. 

Pretres -Saint - Germain- 
l’Auxerrois (des), E. 4. 
Pretres-St-Stverin (des), 
pres Peglise, E. 4. 

Prince Eugene (boul. du) 

F, 3, G. 3. 4, H. 4. 


Princes (Passage des) E. j 
Princcsse, D. 4. 
Procession (de la), C. G. 
Prouvaires (des), E. 3. 
Provence (de), D. E. 2. 
Prudhon (av.), A. 3. 4. 
Puits (du), F. 4. 
Puits-dc-l'Ermitc, E. 5. 
Puits-qui-Parlc i.dii),E l 
Pyramides (des), D. 3. 
Quatre-Cheniins, H. 5. 
Quatre-Fils (des), F. 3. 
Quatre-Vents (des), E 1 
Quentin (de St-), E. F. t. 
Quinault, B. 5. 
Quincampoix, E. 3. 4. 
Quintinie (la), B. C. 6. 
Rabelais, C. 2. 

Racine, E. 4. 

Radziwill (passage), P£ 
lais-Royal, E. 3. 
Rambouillet (de), G. 5. 
Rambuteau, E. F. 3. 
Rameau, D. E 3. 

Rampe (aven. de la), B.: 
Rampon, F. 3. 

Ranelagh (du), A. 4. 
Rciphael (av.), A. 4. 
Rilpee (quai), G. 5 
Rapp (avenue), B. 3. 4. 
Rats (des), II. 4. 

Reale (de la), E. 3. 
Reaumur, F. 3. 
Rebeval, G. 2. 

Recollets (des), F. 2. 
Regard (du), I). 5. 
Regnard, Odton, E. 4. 
Reims (de), E 5. 
Reine-Bianche ( de la 
F. G. 

Reine Horlense (avem 
de la), B. C. 2. 
Renard-St-Sauveur, E.; 
Renard-St-Merri, E. 4. 
Renncquin, B. I. 
Rennes (de), D. 4. 5. 
Reservoirs (des , A. 3. 
Retiro (passage du), fai 
bourg Sl-Honort. D. 3 
Reuilly (de), G H. 5 

— (passage), G. 5. 
Reuilly (boul.), H. 5. G 

— (chcmin de), H. G. 
Reunion (placede la),H 
Revolte (route de la), A 

B 1 

Reynie (la), ou Trouss 
Vache, E. 3. 

Riboutt, E. 2. 





.2 


, 





5 


I, 


I 



! 


L 


. 


UST 

ftichard-Lenoir (boulev.), 
B. G. 3. 4. 

Richelieu, D. 3. E. 3* 2 
Richopansc, I). 3. 

Richer, E. 2. 

Richer (galerie), r. Geof- 
froy-Marie, E. 2. 

Richei and (avenue), F. 2 
Rigollcs (dcs), II. 2. 
Riquct, G. 1 
Riveriu (cit6), F. 2. 

Rivoli (dc), D. E. 3. 4. F. 4 
Rivoli (place dc), I). 3. 
Roch (St-), I). 3. 

Rocli (passage St-), D. 3. 
Rochecjiouart, E. t. 2. 
Roehechouart (boulevard 
de), E. t. 

Rochefoucauld (La), D. 2. 

— d’Epfer, I), G 
Rocher, (du), C. D. 2. 
Rocrov (de), E,(. 

Rodier, E. t. 2 
Rohan, D 3. 

Roi de Rome (av. du), 
F. 2. 3. 

Roi-dc-Sicilc (du), F. 4. 

Roi Dor6, F. 4 
Rome (dc), D. I. 2 
Romain (St-), D. 5. 

Rond Point Ch.-Elys., C. 3 
Roquepine, C. 2. 

Roquette (de la), G. 4. 

— place de la, G. 4. 
Rosiers (dcs), F. 4. 
Rossini,E. 2, 
Rotonde,villettc, (place), 

F. G t. 

Roubaix (place dc), F. 1 
Roubo, H. 4. 

Rouclle, B. 4. 

Rouen (dc), G. t. 

Roule (du), E. 3. 
Rougcmont, E. 2. 
Roussclet, C. 4. 5. 

Roussin, B. 5. 

Royal (pout), D. 3. 4. 
Royalc (place), F. 4 
Royale-St-Honord, S). 3. 
Royale, Villelte, G. I. 
Royer-Collard, E. 5. 
Rubens, F. (5 
Sabin (St-), G. * 
Sablonville, A. t 
Sabot (du), D. 4. 

Saint ct Sainte (see their 
names). 

Saintonge (de), F. 3. 

Sante (de ia), E. 0 
Sarline (dc), E. 3. 


OE streets, SQUARES, 

Saulnier (passage), E. 2. j 
Saunion (passage), E. 3. 
Saussayes (dcs), C. 2. 
Saitssayes (dcs), E. I. 
Saussure, C. t. 

Sauval, E. 3. 

Sauvcur (St-), E. 3. 

Savoye (de), E. 4. 

Saxe (avenue de), C. 4. 5. 
Scheffer, A. 3. 

Schomberg (de), F. 4 
Scipion (place), E. F. 6. 
Scipion, E. F. 0. 

Scribe, D 2. 

Sebastien (St-), F. G, 3. 
Sebastopol (bd.), E3.4.F.3 
Sedaine, G. 4. 

Sdguier, E. 4 , 

Sogur (avenue), C. 4. 

Seine (do), T). E. 4. 

Seine, quai de la, G. I. 
Scntier (du), E. 2. 3 
Sept Yoies (des), E. 5. 
Serpento, E. 4. 

Scrvandoni, 1). 4. . 
Sdvcrin (St-), E. 4. 

Sevigne, F. 4. 

Sdvres (de), C. 5. D. 4. 5. j 
Seze (de), D. 2. 

Sibour, F. 2. 

Simon-le-Franc, E. F. 3. I 
Singer, A. 4. 

Singes (des), F. 4. 

Sceurs (passage des Deux-):, | 

Soissons, G. t. 

Solferino, 0. 3. 4. 

Solfcrino (pout de), Cl 3 2 
Soly, E. 3. 

Sorbonne (dc), E. 3. 
Sorbonnc (place), K, S 
Soufflot, E. 5. 

Soulavcs, G. G 
Source (de la), A.4 
Sourdicre (de la) r F). 3. 
Sourdis (ruelle), F. 3. 

Spire (St-), E. 3. 

Sponlini, A. 2. 5 
Stanislas,!), a. 

Stinvi 11c (passage), II. 5. 
Stockholm, I). 2 
Strasbourg (dc), F. 2. 
Strasbourg ( Boulevard 
de), F. 2. 3 

Suchet boulevard;, A 4. 
Suffren (avenue de),B. 4. 
Super, E. 4. 

Sully, a P Arsenal F. 4. 
Snlpice (place st-}, !>. • 


ETC. si 

Sulpjee (S£*, D. E. 4. 
Sureue (de), C. D. . 
Taillebourg (av.),li, 
Taiile-Pain, E. 4 
Tailhout, 1). 2. 

Tanger, F. G i 
Taranne, D. 4. 

Tel eg raplie (du), E. I 
Temple (du), F. a 4 
Temple (faubourg du), 
1.3. (j. z. 

Temple (boulev. du), F. 3 
Temple (marclic ' du) 

F. 3 

Temple (square du), F » 
Ternaux, G. 3. 
t ernes, B. f. 

Te.-ucs (av.), A. 1 . B. 2 . 
Yerres-Fortes (des), lv 
G 3 

Therdse, D. 3. 

Thevenot, E. 3. 

Thierre (passage). G. 
Thionville (de) G. \. 
Tholoze, D.). 
Thoinas-d’Aquin (Sanity., 
place, L>. 4. 

Thomus-d’Eofer (St-), E.3 
Thorigny (de), F. 4. 
Thouin, E. 5. 

Tilsitt, U. 2. 

Tiquetonne, E. 3. 
Tirechappe, E. 3 . 

Tivoli, D. 2. 

—(passage et place), D. 2 , 
Tombe issoire (de la) r 

D. G. 

Tour (de la), Passy, A. 3 
Tour-d’Auvergnc (de .’a y 

E. 2. 

Tour-des-Danies, D. 2. 

Tom dies (des), H. 2. 
Tournelle (pont),F. 4.5 
Tournelle (quaij, E. F. 4i 
Tourncfort, E. 5. 
Tournellcs (des), F. 4. 
Tournon (de), I). E. 4 . 
Tourville (avenue), c. * r . 
Traktir, B 2. 

'['racy (de), E 3. 

Transit (du), B. C. D. o„. 
Traverse (de), C. 4 . 3.5 
Traversi 6 rc, F. G. 4. 5 . 
Traversine. E. 4 . 

Ti e vise, E. 2 . 

—Gild, E. 2 . 

Triperct, E. 5 . 

Tripicre (de la). F. G; 
Trois-Bornes (des), g ‘Jfi 














LIST OF STREETS, SC ,ARES, ElC. 


— -Chandellcs (ruclle 
des), G. H. 6- 

-Couronnes (de9), G. 3 

— Fr6rcs (des), D. E. 1. 

— Maries (place des), E.4 

_Pavilions (des), F. 4 

—Fortes (des), E. 4. 

— -Sabres, H. 5. 

Troncliet, D. 2. 

Trone (place du). H. 5. 
'ITuanderie (Gde.), E. 3. 
Trudaine (avenue), E. t 
Tuileries (palais des),D. 3 
Tuilcries (quai des), 1). 

3. 4. 

Turennc, F. 3. 4. 

Turgot, E. 1.2. 

Turbigo (de), E. F. 3. 
Turin (dc), D. 1. 2. 

Elm, E. 5. 

University, B. C. 3. D. 4. 
University, au Gros-Cail- 
Iou, B. 3. 

Ursulines (des), E. 5. 
Valadon (cite), B. 4. 
Val-de-Gr4ce (du), E. 5. 
Valence (dc), E. 6. 
Valenciennes (place), F. 2 
Valenciennes, F. 2. 

Valmy (quai dc), F. 1 . 2. 
Valois.Palais-Royal, E. 3 
Valois du Roule, C. t. 2. 
Vandamme, C. D. 6. 
Vanneau, C. 4. 

Vannes (de), Halle au biy, 

jp g 

Yanvcs (Gde. R. dc), C. 6 
Varennes (de), faubourg 
St-Germain. C. D. 4 
Varennes (de), Halle au 
biy.E. 3. 

variytys (passage des) E. 2 
Yauban (place), C. 4. 


Vaucanson, F. 3. 

Vaucanson (passage), G. 4 
Vaugirard (de), C. 1). 5. 
Vanquelin, E. 5. 

— (boulevard de), C. 5. 
Vavin, D. 5. 

Veaux (rnarchd aux), E. 4. 
Venddxne (passage), F. 3 
Vendome (place), U. 3 
Venise (de), E. 3. 

Ventadour (du), D. 3. 
Verdeau (passage), E. 2. 
Verderet, E. 3. 

Vcrnet, B. 2. 

Verneuil (de), D. 4. 
Vernier, A. B. 1 
Vero-Dodat (passage), rue 
de Grenelle, E. 3. 

Verrerie (de la), E. F. 4. 
Versailles (route), A. 4. 5. 
Vertbois (du), F. 3. 

Verte (aliye), F. G. 3. 
Vertus (des), F. 3. 

Vertus, Chapelle, F. \ 
Viannes (de), E. 3. 

Vicq d’Azir. F. G. 2 
Vicloire (de la), D. E. 2 
Victoires (place des), E. 3. 
Victor (St-), E. F. 5. 

Victor Cousin, E. 5. 

Victor (place St-), F. 5. 
Victoria (avenue), E. 4. 
Vide-Gousset, E. 3. 
Vieille-du-Temple. F. 3. 4 
—Estrapade, E. 5. 

—Notrc-Danic (de la), 
F. 5. 

Vieilles-Haudriettes (des), 
F. 3 

—Etuves (des), St-Mar- 
tin, F. 4. 

Vienne, D. 2. 

Vierge (dc la), C. 4. 


Vleux Chcmin (dn), f 
Vieux-Colombier, D. 
Vignes(des), A. 4. 
Vignoles, n. 4. 

Villars (avenue), C. 4. 
villcdot, D. 3. 

Villiot, G. 5. 

Villejuif (de), F. C. 
Villejust (dc), A. 2. B 
Villehardouin, F. 4, 
vilie-FEveque (dc la 
D. 2. 

Villette (boulevard d 

F. i. G. i. 2. 

Villette (bassin de 

G. \. 

Villiers, A. B, I. 
Vinaigriers (des), F. 
Vincennes (cours), 1 
Vincennes (av. de), 
Vincent (St-) de P 

E. t. 

Vind6 (city), D. 3. 
Vineuse, A. 3. 
vins (halle et port 

F. 5. 

Vintimille (place), D 
Vintimille, D. i. 
Violet, B. 4. 5. 

Violet (passage), E. 2 
Visconti, D. 4 . 
Vivienne, E. 2. 3 . 
Vivienne (passage), 
Volta, F. 3. 

Voltaire (quai), D. 4 
Vosges (des), F. 4. 
Vrilliere (de la), E. 
Wagram(avenue de 
Wagram (place), B. 
Wauxliall (city du), 
Walhubert (place), 
Wilhem, A. 4. 5. 
Zacharie, E. 4. 




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